Lonely Planet Argentina

By Isabel Albiston

Lonely Planet’s Argentina is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Hike the Fitz Roy Range, experience gaucho culture, and discover Buenos Aires’ food scene; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Argentina and begin your journey now!

 

Inside Lonely Planet’s Argentina Travel Guide: 

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

NEW top experiences feature - a visually inspiring collection of Argentina’s best experiences and where to have them

What's NEW feature taps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas

NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel

Planning tools for family travelers - where to go, how to save money, plus fun stuff just for kids

Color maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

Over 75 maps 

Covers Buenos Aires, The Pampas & the Atlantic Coast, Iguazu Falls & the Northeast, Salta & the Andean Northwest, Córdoba & the Central Sierras, Mendoza & the Central Andes, Bariloche & the Lake District, Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego, Uruguay

 

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s Argentina, our most comprehensive guide to Argentina, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less traveled. 

 

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveler since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travelers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day. 

 

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• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Jul 1, 2022
• ISBN: 9781838696504

Book preview

Front CoverLonely Planet Logo

Argentina

MapHow To Use This eBookFull Page SamplerbuttonCountry Map

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Argentina

Argentina’s Top Experiences

Need to Know

Month by Month

Itineraries

Argentina Outdoors

Eat & Drink Like a Local

Travel with Children

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

BUENOS AIRES

Sights

Activities

Courses

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Tigre & the Delta

THE PAMPAS & THE ATLANTIC COAST

Northern Pampas

La Plata

Luján

San Antonio de Areco

Southern Pampas

Tandil

Sierra de la Ventana

Villa Ventana

Atlantic Coast

Pinamar

Villa Gesell

Mar del Plata

Necochea

Bahía Blanca

IGUAZÚ FALLS & THE NORTHEAST

Along the Río Paraná

Rosario

Santa Fe

Paraná

Corrientes

Mercedes

Parque Esteros del Iberá

Along the Río Uruguay

Concepción del Uruguay

Colón

Parque Nacional El Palmar

Concordia

Paso de los Libres

Misiones

Posadas

San Ignacio

Santa Ana & Loreto

Saltos del Moconá

Iguazú Falls

Puerto Iguazú

Parque Nacional Iguazú

Parque Nacional do Iguaçu (Brazil)

Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil)

The Gran Chaco

Resistencia

Juan José Castelli

SALTA & THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST

Salta & Jujuy Provinces

Salta

Valles Calchaquíes

Cafayate

Quebrada de Cafayate

San Antonio de los Cobres

Salinas Grandes

Jujuy

Las Yungas

Quebrada de Humahuaca

La Quiaca

Yavi

Tucumán & Around

Tucumán

Tafí del Valle

Around Tafí del Valle

Santiago del Estero

Catamarca & La Rioja

Catamarca

Belén

Londres & El Shincal

Western Catamarca

La Rioja

Chilecito

Parque Nacional Talampaya

CÓRDOBA & THE CENTRAL SIERRAS

Córdoba

The Central Sierras

La Cumbre

San Marcos Sierras

Capilla del Monte

Jesús María

Estancia Santa Catalina

Alta Gracia

Villa General Belgrano

La Cumbrecita

Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito

Mina Clavero

San Luis & Around

Merlo

San Luis

Parque Nacional Sierra de las Quijadas

Valle de las Sierras Puntanas

Carolina

Papagayos

MENDOZA & THE CENTRAL ANDES

Mendoza

Around Mendoza

Cacheuta

Potrerillos

Uspallata

Los Penitentes

Parque Provincial Aconcagua

Valle de Uco

San Rafael

Cañon del Atuel & Valle Grande

Malargüe

Las Leñas

San Juan

Barreal

Rodeo

Parque Provincial Ischigualasto

BARILOCHE & THE LAKE DISTRICT

Bariloche

Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi

El Bolsón

Around El Bolsón

Villa la Angostura

Villa Traful

San Martín de los Andes

Parque Nacional Lanín

Junín de los Andes

Aluminé

Villa Pehuenia

Caviahue

Copahue

Chos Malal

Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca

Neuquén

PATAGONIA

Coastal Patagonia

Puerto Madryn

Reserva Faunística Península Valdés

Trelew

Gaiman

Área Natural Protegida Punta Tombo

Camarones

Cabo Dos Bahías

Comodoro Rivadavia

Puerto Deseado

Reserva Natural Ría Deseado & Parque Interjurisdiccional Marino Isla Pingüino

Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados

Puerto San Julián

Parque Nacional Monte León

Río Gallegos

Inland Patagonia

Esquel

Trevelin

Parque Nacional Los Alerces

Gobernador Costa

Río Mayo

Perito Moreno

Los Antiguos

Cueva de Las Manos

Bajo Caracoles

Parque Nacional Perito Moreno

Gobernador Gregores

El Chaltén

Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (North)

El Calafate

Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (South)

Reserva Los Huemules

Chilean Patagonia

Punta Arenas

Monumento Natural Los Pingüinos

Parque Nacional Pali Aike

Puerto Natales

Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins

Parque Nacional Torres del Paine

TIERRA DEL FUEGO

Ushuaia

Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego

Tolhuin & Lago Fagnano

Río Grande

Estancias Around Río Grande

Puerto Williams (Chile)

Porvenir (Chile)

URUGUAY

Montevideo

Western Uruguay

Colonia del Sacramento

Carmelo

Mercedes

Salto

Tacuarembó

Valle Edén

Eastern Uruguay

Piriápolis

Punta del Este

La Paloma

La Pedrera

Cabo Polonio

Punta del Diablo

Parque Nacional Santa Teresa

Understand Uruguay

Survival Guide

UNDERSTAND

History

Life in Argentina

The Sounds of Argentina

Literature & Cinema

The Natural World

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodations

Courses

Customs Regulations

Discount Cards

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Health

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBTIQ+ Travelers

Maps

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travelers

Work

Transportation

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Entering Argentina

Air

Land

River

Sea

GETTING AROUND

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Hitchhiking

Local Transportation

Train

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to Argentina

During the years that I lived in Argentina, and during many visits since, I’ve felt enlivened by this colorful land where dogs wear soccer shirts and septuagenarians dance tango until dawn. It’s a country whose cultural riches are ever present and always accessible; a land of superlatives and such sublime natural wonders it’s almost too much to take in. Life in Argentina can be challenging, but everyday absurdities are met with humor, resilience and kindness.

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Glaciar Perito Moreno | FRANCESCO VANINETTI PHOTO/GETTY IMAGES ©

By Isabel Albiston, Writer

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For more about Our Writers.

Argentina’s Top Experiences

1NATURAL WONDERS

From the mighty Iguazú Falls in the subtropical north to the thunderous, crackling advance of the Glaciar Perito Moreno in the south, Argentina is home to a vast natural wonderland. The country with the Andes’ highest snowbound peaks is also home to rich wetlands, rust-hued desert, deep-blue lakes, lichen-clad Valdivian forests and Patagonia’s arid steppes. In this vast land, stunning sights abound and big adventure awaits.

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Fitz Roy Range | FEBRUARY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Iguazú Falls

The Río Iguazú, flowing through the jungle between Argentina and Brazil, plunges suddenly over a basalt cliff in a spectacular display. Iguazú Falls are a primal experience for the senses: the roar, the spray and the sheer volume of water.

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Iguazú Falls, Brazil side | RMNUNES/GETTY IMAGES ©

Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

Perito Moreno (pictured above) is one of the most dynamic and accessible glaciers on the planet. Its slow but constant motion creates incredible suspense, as building-sized icebergs calve from the face and spectacularly crash into Lago Argentino.

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SJ TRAVEL PHOTO AND VIDEO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Parque Provincial Aconcagua

The tallest peak in the western hemisphere, Aconcagua is an awe-inspiring sight. If you reach the top (not a task to be taken lightly), you’ll be granted bragging rights as one of a select group who have touched the ‘roof of the Americas.’

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Parque Provincial Aconcagua | CAMELIA VARSESCU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

2PORTEñO PASSIONS

Arriving in Buenos Aires is like jumping aboard a moving train. The modern metropolis whizzes by, alive with street life, from sidewalk cafes to parks carpeted in purple jacaranda blooms in springtime. Porteños (people from Buenos Aires) savor public life, whether it’s meeting friends for a steak or a late-night gelato. Passion-fueled activities abound, from dancing tango to chanting and stomping alongside other stadium fanatics at a fútbol (soccer) game.

Tango at a Milonga

Nothing captures the essence of Buenos Aires like the sensual and melancholy tango. To experience the dance in its most authentic form, head to a milonga (a tango club or event).

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Tango dancers in San Telmo | T PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Football Games

In Buenos Aires, fútbol (soccer) inspires intense passion. The atmosphere is particularly boisterous when Boca Juniors and arch-rivals River Plate face off at La Bombonera stadium (pictured above).

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LUCIANA SILVA RODRIGUES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Steak Dinners

Feast at one of the capital’s many parrillas (steakhouses), where waiters carve generous cuts of prime beef. Parrillas run the gamut from roadside grills to neighborhood joints to upscale restaurants, so there’s a price for every pocket.

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Don Julio | JERSEAN GOLATT/LONELY PLANET ©

Top Experiences

3Hitting the Trail

Hiking is a fantastic way to experience Argentina’s mesmerizing landscapes. Opportunities abound, from stomping through cactus-filled deserts to scaling mountain peaks to backpacking past deep-blue lakes and through verdant forests. Bariloche is a popular hiking destination, with outstanding day and multiday hikes. Lining Argentina’s western edge like a bumpy spine, the Andes rise to nearly 7000m at Aconcagua’s peak and offer some of the continent’s finest hiking and mountaineering.

Volcán Lanín

Trails at Parque Nacional Lanín include the ascent up the perfect cone of Volcán Lanínis, one of Argentina’s most spectacular trekking challenges.

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Parque Nacional Lanín | PAWEL TOCZYNSKI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Torres del Paine

This exceptional Chilean park abuts the Argentine border, with some of the world’s best hiking.

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Torres del Paine | KAVRAM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Fitz Roy Range

With rugged wilderness, glaciers and shark-tooth summits, the Fitz Roy Range (pictured above) is the trekking capital of Argentina.

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JUDYTA JASTRZEBSKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

4ANDEAN CULTURE

Northwestern Argentina has a distinctly Andean feel. The striking red-rock landscape is dotted with dusty villages, where you’ll find pretty adobe churches, cobbled streets, and stalls laid out with colorful textiles, ponchos and handicrafts. Through it all drifts the sounds of folk music and the smells of locro (stew). Experience Andean culture at the local Carnaval celebrations in February and March, or year-round at a peña (folk music club).

Folk music at Salta’s peñas

The beautiful city of Salta is set in a fertile valley that acts as a gateway to the impressive Andean cordillera. Experience Salta’s lively folkloric music scene at the city’s excellent peñas.

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La Casona del Molino | YADID LEVY /ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Quebrada de Humahuaca

This spectacular valley of scoured rock impresses visually with its tortured formations and artist’s palette of mineral colors. The Quebrada’s settlements are traditional and indigenous in character, with typical Andean dishes supplanting steaks on the restaurant menus, and llamas, not herds of cattle, grazing the sparse highland grass.Quebrada de Humahuaca

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Quebrada de Humahuaca | OBSCUR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

5WINE COUNTRY

With so much fantastic wine on offer, it’s tempting just to pull up a bar stool and work your way through the menu, but getting out there and seeing how the grapes are grown and processed is almost as enjoyable as sampling the finished product. Wine tasting in Argentina and Uruguay isn’t just for the wine snobs – experiences range from DIY bike tours to tasting-and-accommodations packages at exclusive wineries.

San Juan

The lesser-known wine region of San Juan (pictured above) has exceptional syrah and bonarda varieties. Sample them along the San Juan Wine Route.

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WATCH THE WORLD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Uruguay

The area around the town of Carmelo in Uruguay has a number of vineyards offering tastings of their well-regarded tannats.

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Tannat grapes | D CURRIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Mendoza

The Mendoza wine region produces the majority of Agentina’s grapes and has countless wineries. It’s the best place to taste malbec, the dark, robust, plum-flavored wine that has solidly stamped the region of Mendoza on every oenophile’s map.

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Wine sampling at a Mendoza bodega | ANDREW PEACOCK/SGETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

6Wildlife Watching

In Argentina, wildlife comes in spectacular variety. The country’s diverse environments translate into homes for many creatures, including flightless, grasslands-loving ñandú (rheas); Andean condors and pumas; and desert-dwelling camelids such as llamas and guanacos. Coastal walks offer ample opportunities to spot whales and other sea life, while diving and kayak tours take you deeper into their world. Boat trips through the wetlands provide sightings of alligators and other swamp dwellers.

Whale-watching

Península Valdés is a hub for wildlife watching. The main attraction is endangered southern right whales, but you can also spot orcas, penguins and elephant seals.

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Southern right whale, Península Valdés | FEDERICO CABRERA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Wetland Wonders

Parque Esteros del Iberá offers astonishing wildlife-watching opportunities around shallow vegetation-rich lagoons. Head out in a boat to spot alligators, exotic bird species, monkeys, swamp deer and capybaras.

Penguins in Ushuaia

Colonies of cormorants, sea lions and penguins flank this stepping-off point to Antarctica.

Ushuaia

Top Experiences

7GAUCHO CULTURE

An enduring Argentine icon, the intrepid gaucho came to life after Spaniards let their cattle loose on the grassy pampas centuries ago. These nomadic cowboys lived by taming wild horses (introduced by the Spaniards), hunting errant herds and drinking mate (a tea-like beverage) under the shade of the Ombú tree. It’s a living tradition. Look out for modern-day gauchos, riding across the pampas in their boinas (a kind of beret).

Feria de Mataderos

Gauchos demonstrate their horseback-riding skills by playing sortija, a game where they ride at full speed to spear a tiny dangling ring.

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Stalls at Feria de Mataderos | NIARKRAD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Pampas Traditions

If you want to experience gaucho culture in all its glory, don’t miss November’s Fiesta de la Tradición (pictured top) in San Antonio de Areco.

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KSENIA RAGOZINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Visit an Estancia

Soak up gaucho culture at an estancia (ranch). Activities on offer include horseback riding and elaborate asados (barbecues).

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Gaucho preparing mate | CRISTIAN LAZZARI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

8HITTING THE ROAD

Taking a road trip is an excellent way to experience the beauty of Argentina’s varied landscapes. And since some parts of the country are not accessible by public transport, getting behind the wheel is one of the best ways to get off the beaten track. Road trips are particularly worthwhile in Patagonia, where distances are vast and buses infrequent. Put on some tunes and prepare for an unforgettable adventure.

Seven Lakes Route

A journey of extraordinary beauty, the Ruta de los Siete Lagos (Seven Lakes Route) is a not-to-be-missed road trip. Your vehicular adventure winds through lush forests, past waterfalls and dramatic mountain scenery, and skirts the various crystal-blue lakes that give it its name.

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Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi | SAIKO3P/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Cactus Road

The road trip from Salta to the enchanting towns of Cachi and Cafayate begins with a cruise through the spectacular Parque Nacional Los Cardones (pictured left), which takes its names from the cardón (candelabra cactus) that dominates the landscape.

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MATTHEW WILLIAMS-ELLIS /GETTY IMAGES ©

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Argentine peso (AR$)

Language

Spanish

Visas

Generally not required for stays of up to 90 days. Canadians must pay a ‘reciprocity fee’ before entering.

Money

ATMs are widely available, though tend to run out of money in tourist destinations. Credit cards are accepted in most hotels and restaurants.

Cell Phones

It’s best to bring your own unlocked tri- or quad-band GSM cell phone to Argentina, then buy an inexpensive SIM chip (you’ll get a local number) and credits (or carga virtual) as needed.

Time

Argentina Standard Time (GMT/UTC minus three hours)

When to Go

High Season (Nov–Feb & Jul)

A Patagonia is best (and most expensive) December to February.

A Crowds throng to the beaches from late December through January.

A Snow falls at ski resorts from June to August.

Shoulder (Sep–Nov & Mar–May)

A Temperature-wise the best times to visit Buenos Aires.

A The Lake District is pleasant; leaves are spectacular in March and April.

A The Mendoza region has its grape harvests and wine festival.

Low Season (Jun–Aug)

A Good time to visit the north.

A Many services close at beach resorts, and mountain passes can be blocked by snow.

A July is a winter vacation month, so popular destinations get busy.

Useful Websites

Argentina Independent (www.argentinaindependent.com) Current affairs and culture, plus much more.

The Bubble (www.thebubble.com) Dissects current events in Argentina and Latin America, with a dose of pop and media culture.

Pick up the Fork (http://pickupthefork.com) Savvy guide to Buenos Aires food and more.

Ruta 0 (www.ruta0.com) Handy driving tips, such as distance/duration between cities, gas consumption, road conditions and tariffs.

Lonely Planet (www.lonely planet.com/argentina) Destination information, traveler forum and more.

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than US$60

A Dorm bed: US$15–22

A Double room in good budget hotel: US$65

A Cheap main dish: under US$11

Midrange: US$60–200

A Three-star hotel room: US$75–150

A Average main dish: US$10–16

A Four-hour bus ticket: US$30

Top End: More than US$200

A Five-star hotel room: US$165+

A Fine main dish: over US$17

A Taxi trip across town: US$12

Opening Hours

General opening hours:

Banks 8am to 3pm or 4pm Monday to Friday; some till 1pm Saturday

Bars 8pm or 9pm to between 4am and 6am nightly

Cafes 6am to midnight or much later; open daily

Clubs 1am to 2am to between 6am and 8am Friday and Saturday

Office business hours 8am to 5pm

Post offices 8am to 6pm Monday to Friday, 9am to 1pm Saturday

Restaurants Noon to 3:30pm and 8pm to midnight or 1am (later on weekends)

Shops 9am or 10am to 8pm or 9pm Monday to Saturday

Arriving in Argentina

Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini (‘Ezeiza’; Buenos Aires) Shuttle buses (AR$240) travel frequently to downtown BA in 40 to 60 minutes; local buses take two hours. Use official taxi services only; avoid touts.

Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (‘Aeroparque,’ airport with mostly domestic flights; Buenos Aires) Shuttle buses (AR$75) travel frequently to downtown BA in 10 to 15 minutes; or take local bus 33 or 45. Taxis available (AR$160 to downtown).

Getting Around

Air Argentina is a huge country, so flights are good for saving time. Delays happen occasionally, however.

Bus Generally the best way to get around Argentina; they’re fast, frequent, comfortable, reasonably priced and cover the country extensively.

Car Renting a car is useful (but expensive) for those who want the most travel independence in remote regions such as Patagonia.

Train A few train lines can be useful for travelers, but generally this is not the most efficient method of transportation.

For much more on Getting Around

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Carnaval, February

Fiesta Nacional del Lúpulo, February

Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia, March

Fiesta Nacional del Chocolate, March–April

Tango BA Festival y Mundial, August

January

January is peak summer in Argentina. Porteños (residents of Buenos Aires) escape the sweltering heat at beach resorts, making them crowded and expensive. It’s also high season in Patagonia, so expect top prices there, too.

3 Festival Nacional del Folklore

Near the city of Córdoba, the town of Cosquín hosts the National Festival of Folk Music during the last week of January. It’s the country’s largest and best-known folklórico (folk music) festival.

February

Summertime crowds at the beaches and in Patagonia thin later in the month. The Andean deserts and the Iguazú region continue to be very hot, but the Lake District is ideal. Mendoza’s grape harvest begins.

z Carnaval

Though not as rockin’ as it is in Brazil, the celebration is very rowdy in the northeast, especially in Gualeguaychú and Corrientes. Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay, is another party spot. Dates vary depending on the city.

3 El Lúpulo al Palo

El Bolsón’s hop festival honors the key ingredient for its artisanal craft beers. Expect musical performances, activities, food and plenty of beer tasting (of course).

DíA DE LA MEMORIA

Held on March 24 (the date a military coup took over the Argentine government in 1976), this public holiday commemorates the victims of Argentina’s military dictatorship. Over seven years, tens of thousands of people ‘disappeared’ and were never heard from again.

March

Autumn is starting and Buenos Aires is balmy, though rainy. Prices fall at the beaches and in Patagonia, but the weather remains decent. The north starts cooling, and Iguazú Falls is less hot and humid.

6 Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia

Mendoza city’s week-long Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia kicks off with parades, folklórico events and a royal coronation – all in honor of Mendoza’s wines.

April

Lake District forests start changing from verdant green to fiery hues. Patagonia is clearing out but you might get lucky with decent hiking weather. Buenos Aires heads into low season, with still-pleasant temperatures.

3 Festival Internacional de Cine Independiente

Independent film buffs shouldn’t miss this festival in Buenos Aires, which screens more than 100 films from Argentina and Uruguay.

5 Fiesta Nacional del Chocolate

Happening during Easter week (dates vary annually), Bariloche’s chocolate festival often highlights a 9m tall chocolate egg, cracked and consumed on Easter Sunday. Look for the world’s longest chocolate bar, too.

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Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia, Mendoza | ALEXIS LLORET/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Fiesta de la Tradición, San Antonio de Areco | SUNSINGER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

May

It’s late autumn and Buenos Aires is cool as the rains ebb. It’s a good time to visit Iguazú Falls. The crowds also leave Mendoza, though vineyards are still a gorgeous red from autumn leaves.

z Día de Virgen de Luján

On May 8 thousands of devout believers make a 65km pilgrimage to the pampas town of Luján in honor of the Virgin Mary. Other pilgrimages take place in early October, early August, late September and on December 8.

June

Winter begins. Beach resorts and Patagonia close down, but it’s an ideal time to visit the deserts of the Andean Northwest and Iguazú Falls, which have less rain and heat at this time of year.

z Anniversary of Carlos Gardel’s death

On June 24, 1935, tango legend Carlos Gardel died in a plane crash in Colombia. Head to Buenos Aires’ Chacarita cemetery to see fans pay their respects at his grave and statue.

z Festival Nacional de la Noche Más Larga

Ushuaia celebrates the longest night of the year with about 10 days’ worth of music and shows.

July

Ski season is at its peak, so skiers head off to the resorts around Bariloche, San Martín de los Andes and Mendoza. Whale-watching season starts heating up in the area around Península Valdés.

z Día de la Independencia

Argentina’s Independence Day is July 9, and celebrations are especially strong in Tucumán, where the country’s independence was first declared.

August

Beach resort towns are dead and Patagonia is desolate and cold. Buenos Aires is still cool, but it’s a great time to explore the theaters, museums and art galleries.

z Tango BA Festival y Mundial

World-class national and international tango dancers perform throughout Buenos Aires during this two-week festival. It’s a great way to see some of the country’s best tango dancers and musicians do their thing.

September

Spring has sprung, and it’s peak season for whale watching (both southern right whales and orcas) around Península Valdés. Polo season begins in Buenos Aires and the ski slopes wind down.

6 Vinos y Bodegas

Lovers of the grape shouldn’t miss this huge Buenos Aires event, which highlights vintages from bodegas (wineries) all over Argentina.

October

It’s a fine time to visit Buenos Aires and central Argentina. The season is just starting in Patagonia, but the crowds haven’t quite descended. Flowers are blooming in the Lake District.

5 Bariloche a la Carta

This week-long food festival represents the Lake District’s best culinary offerings. Dozens of restaurants take part, showcasing special menus, and numerous food stalls and microbreweries set up shop in the main square.

6 Oktoberfest

Join the swillers and oompah bands at Argentina’s national beer festival, Villa General Belgrano’s Oktoberfest in the Central Sierras.

November

Buenos Aires’ weather is perfect, its jacaranda trees dazzling with purple blooms. It’s a good time to visit the beach resorts and Patagonia, since the crowds and peak prices are still some weeks away.

z Fiesta de la Tradición

This festival salutes the gaucho and is especially significant in San Antonio de Areco, the most classically gaucho of towns. However, it is also important (and much less touristy) in the mountain town of San José de Jáchal.

December

Summer begins and it’s excellent beach weather at the resorts (just before the January peak). It’s also ideal weather for outdoor activities in the Lake District, and penguin and hiking seasons start in Patagonia.

z Buenos Aires Jazz

This big jazz festival takes place over five days in venues all over the city in either November or December, attracting tens of thousands of spectators.

Itineraries

A Week Around Buenos Aires

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1 WEEK

Seen Buenos Aires from top to bottom and wondering where else to visit? There’s plenty of choice just outside Argentina’s capital, from small and alluring cobblestoned towns to bigger, more exciting cities and bustling soft-sand beach resorts.

Tigre, with its hidden waterways and busy delta, is a popular porteño (resident of Buenos Aires) getaway for a day or two. Take a day trip to peaceful San Antonio de Areco, which has a history of gaucho culture, or tidy La Plata, with its huge cathedral.

Perhaps you’d prefer a weekend at the beach? Pinamar and Villa Gesell make great summer escapes, as does Mar del Plata, the biggest Argentine beach destination of them all. Or head inland to Tandil for a couple of days; it’s a pretty town near scenic hills and a large recreational reservoir.

And then there’s Uruguay, just a (relatively) short boat ride away. Colonia del Sacramento is truly charming; filled with cobbled streets and atmospheric colonial buildings it makes a great day trip. Or stay overnight in Montevideo; like BA’s little sister, it’s smaller and less frantic, with a historic downtown with a thriving cafe and nightlife scene and a long Río de la Plata beachfront on the Rambla.

Itineraries

Unmissable Argentina

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5 WEEKS

Argentina is a huge country – the world’s eighth largest – and experiencing all its highlights thoroughly will require at least a month, plus several airplane flights. Whereas Patagonia is best in January and February, the northern deserts are at their hottest, so doing both regions might be best in spring or fall.

Take a few days to explore the wonders of Buenos Aires, taking in the restaurants, parks and cultural attractions. Explore the subcultures of its different neighborhoods and admire the big-city sights. If it’s the right season, fly south for wildlife viewing at Reserva Faunística Península Valdés. From here hop another flight to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world with skiing, dogsledding and penguin viewing. It’s also a prime jumping-off point to Antarctica (for this side trip, add another two weeks and minimum US$5000).

Now you’ll head north to El Calafate, where the stunning Glaciar Perito Moreno of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares is one of the world’s most spectacular sights. If you adore the outdoors, cross the border to Chile’s Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, to hike its awe-inspiring landscapes. Back in El Calafate, your next stop should be El Chaltén, another world-class trekking destination.

Further up the Andes is Argentina’s Lake District, where a chocolate stop in Bariloche is a must. Gorgeous scenery, outdoor activities and lovely nearby towns can easily add days to your itinerary. Your next destination is Mendoza, Argentina’s wine mecca, which also offers great outdoor adventures and mind-blowing Andean scenery. Tour the wineries by bicycle or on a driving tour. A 10-hour bus ride lands you in Córdoba, the country’s second-largest city, with amazing colonial architecture and cutting-edge culture. From here go north to pretty Salta, a colonial masterpiece where you can explore colorful desert canyons, charming villages and rust-colored panoramas.

Pack your bags again and head east to Parque Nacional Iguazú, where the world’s most massive falls will astound you. Fly back to Buenos Aires and party till your plane leaves.

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Glaciar Perito Moreno | SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Tigre | CHRISTIAN SAEZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

Ruta Nacional 40

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30 DAYS

Argentina’s quintessential road trip, RN 40 travels the length of the country. To do this adventure independently you’ll need to rent a vehicle. If you plan to get off the beaten path, a 4WD comes in handy.

Start near the colorful mountainsides of Quebrada de Humahuaca before hitting Salta to take in the colonial charms and the wildly scenic villages of Valles Calchaquíes. Pause at lovely Cafayate and Chilecito before the long trip down to Mendoza to suss out the wine scene.

Continue south, stopping to check out the lagoons and hot springs around Chos Malal. Explore the lovely national parks of Lanín and Nahuel Huapi before hitting San Martín de los Andes and Bariloche, both of which offer fantastic outdoor opportunities. Further on, sidetrack to Cueva de las Manos for indigenous rock art.

Enjoy world-class hiking at El Chaltén, then experience Glaciar Perito Moreno. Cross the border to Chile to explore the stunning Parque Nacional Torres del Paine before your last stop, Ushuaia – the windswept finale of the world’s most southern highway.

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Lago Nahuel Huapi | KSENIA RAGOZINA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Farm in Tandil | JOPSTOCK / GETTY IMAGES ©

Itineraries

Patagonian Passage

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18 DAYS

Jaw-dropping Andean peaks, adorable mountain villages and exotic coastal wildlife – you’ll hit them all on this spectacular Patagonian adventure.

Start in Puerto Madryn in springtime to see the whales, elephant seals and penguins at Reserva Faunística Península Valdés. From nearby Trelew, check out the world’s largest dinosaur at the Museo Paleontologico Egidio Feruglio and catch a flight south.

Arrive in Ushuaia and hop on a boat to cruise around the Beagle Channel. Nearby Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego offers hiking at the end of the world.

Now hop to El Calafate and lay your eyes on the spectacular Glaciar Perito Moreno. Outdoors lovers should cross the border and trek in Chile’s famous Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Hit El Chaltén for world-class hiking and camping.

Return to El Calafate to fly to Bariloche, gateway to the gorgeous national parks of Nahuel Huapi and Lanín. If you have a couple of days extra, overnight in the hippie enclave of El Bolsón or the cute village of Villa Traful.

Itineraries

Mendoza Wine & Adventures

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2 WEEKS

Few getaways hold more appeal than a journey to South America’s most scenic wine country. Whether you’re cycling through the vineyards or sipping malbecs, it’s a fabulous way to unwind.

Start in beautiful Mendoza, on the flanks of the Andes with world-class vineyards surrounding the city. White-water rafting and skiing in the area are superb, and Cerro Aconcagua (the western hemisphere’s highest peak) isn’t too far away.

Now take a crack-of-dawn bus to San Rafael, where you can rent a bike and ride out to the city’s wineries. The area is also home to scenic Cañon del Atuel, a colorful mini Grand Canyon. Then backtrack up north to San Juan to try the excellent syrah and regional whites. Rent a car and head west to ethereal Barreal for rafting, mountaineering and land sailing, then go further north to explore the remote, traditional villages of Rodeo, Huaco and San José de Jáchal.

Finally, visit the amazing landscapes of Parque Provincial Ischigualasto and Parque Nacional Talampaya; both boast spectacular rock formations, along with petroglyphs and dinosaur fossils.

Itineraries

Northern Adventure Loop

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3 WEEKS

Argentina’s north feels otherwordly, with pretty towns and cities, colorful mountains and desert scenery. To the east are incredible waterfalls and wildlife-filled wetlands.

Start in Córdoba, and explore one of the country’s finest colonial centers.

Now head north to historic Tucumán to see where Argentina declared its independence from Spain. Over to the west is pretty Tafí del Valle. A bit further north is beautiful Cafayate, the place to knock back some aromatic torrontés wine. Sober up and day-trip to the epic Quebrada de Cafayate, then head to otherworldly Valles Calchaquíes and the adobe villages of Molinos and Cachi.

Historic Salta is a great base for stellar excursions into the Andes. Now journey north through the magnificently eroded valley of Quebrada de Humahuaca, where you can overnight in lively little Tilcara.

Return to Salta and fly to the incredible Parque Nacional Iguazú. With time, head to Parque Esteros del Iberá, an amazing wetlands preserve full of capybaras, caimans and birds, or pay a visit to the evocative ruins of the Jesuit missions.

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Catedral de la Plata | EVGENIYA UVAROVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Ruta Nacional 40, Patagonia | KAVRAM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Plan Your Trip

Argentina Outdoors

Mountaineering, hiking and skiing have long been Argentina’s classic outdoor pursuits, but these days locals and visitors alike are doing much more. They’re kiteboarding in the Andes, paragliding in the Central Sierras, diving along the Atlantic coast and pulling out huge trout in the Lake District.

Best Bases for Thrill Seekers

Bariloche

One of Argentina’s premier outdoor cities, with a hut-to-hut hiking tradition thanks to its Swiss-German roots. There’s also fine skiing, biking, fishing, rafting and even paragliding.

Mendoza

One word: Aconcagua. Here at the highest section of the Andes there’s also outstanding skiing and rafting and rock climbing in summer months.

El Chaltén

At the edge of the southern ice field, there’s no location more dramatic for world-class hiking, mountaineering, ice-hikes and rock climbing.

Puerto Madryn

Check out the outstanding marine wildlife, including sea lions and whales, by going diving, kayaking or windsurfing.

Junín de los Andes

In the drier part of the Lake District you will find lovely hiking and gorgeous rivers offering some of the world’s best fly-fishing with huge trout.

Córdoba

The closest city to Los Gigantes, Argentina’s rock-climbing mecca (80km away).

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Off-piste skiing, Cerro Chapelco | ERICSMANDES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hiking & Trekking

Argentina is home to some superb stomping. The Lake District is probably the country’s most popular hiking destination, with outstanding day and multiday hikes in several national parks, including Nahuel Huapi and Lanín. Bariloche is the best base for exploring the former, San Martín de los Andes the latter.

Patagonia, along the Andes, has out-of-this-world hiking. South of Bariloche, El Bolsón is an excellent base for hiking both in the forests outside of town and in nearby Parque Nacional Lago Puelo. Parque Nacional Los Glaciares offers wonderful hiking in and around the Fitz Roy Range; base yourself in El Chaltén and wait out the storms (in the brewery, of course).

Head to Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, in Chile but not far from El Calafate in Argentina, for epic hiking. Tierra del Fuego also has good routes in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego.

Then there are the high Andean peaks west of Mendoza. Although these areas are more popular for mountaineering, there’s some great trekking here as well. The northern Andes around Quebrada de Humahuaca are also good.

Bariloche, Ushuaia, El Bolsón and Junín de los Andes have a hiking and mountaineering club called Club Andino, which is good for local information, maps and current conditions.

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Lago Puelo | SUZIE HALL / GETTY IMAGES ©

Mountaineering

The Andes are a mountaineer’s dream, especially in the San Juan and Mendoza provinces, where some of the highest peaks in the western hemisphere are found. While the most famous climb is Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Americas, there are plenty of others in the Andes – many of them more interesting and far more technical. Near Barreal, the Cordón de la Ramada boasts five peaks more than 6000m high, including the mammoth Cerro Mercedario, which tops out at 6770m. The region is less congested than Aconcagua, offers more technical climbs and is preferred by many climbers. Also near here is the majestic Cordillera de Ansilta, with seven peaks scraping the sky at between 5130m and 5885m.

The magnificent and challenging Fitz Roy Range, in southern Patagonia near El Chaltén, is one of the world’s top mountaineering destinations, while the mountains of Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi offer fun for all levels.

Rock Climbing

Patagonia’s Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, home to Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitz Roy, is one of the world’s most important rock-climbing destinations. Cerro Torre is considered one of the five toughest climbs on the planet. The nearby town of El Chaltén is a climber’s haven, and several shops offer lessons and rent equipment. If you don’t have the time or talent for climbs of Cerro Torre’s magnitude, there are plenty of other options.

Los Gigantes, in the Central Sierras, is fast becoming the country’s de facto rock-climbing capital and has lots of high-quality granite. There’s also climbing around Carolina.

In Mendoza province, Los Molles is a small, friendly hub for rock climbing, and there’s more nearby at Chigüido (near Malargüe). Around Mendoza city are the draws of Los Arenales and El Salto.

There’s good climbing around Bariloche – Cerro Catedral especially has popular crags. Finally, in the Pampas, there’s some climbing in Tandil and Mar del Plata.

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Rock climbing in El Chaltén | ALEX EGGERMONT / GETTY IMAGES ©

MUSH, FIDO, MUSH!

You can’t say you’ve done it all until you’ve tried dogsledding, and Argentina’s a great place to start. Obviously, this activity is possible only when there’s snow, during the winter months of June to October – though in Ushuaia the season might be longer. Here are a few places to check out:

Caviahue A village on the flanks of Volcán Copahue.

San Martín de los Andes A picturesque town north of Bariloche.

Ushuaia The southernmost city in the world!

Fishing

Together, Patagonia and the Lake District constitute one of the world’s premier fly-fishing destinations, where introduced trout species (brown, brook, lake and rainbow) and landlocked Atlantic salmon reach massive sizes in cold rivers surrounded by spectacular scenery. It’s an angler’s paradise.

In the Lake District, Junín de los Andes is the self-proclaimed trout capital of Argentina, and lining up a guide to take you to Parque Nacional Lanín’s superb trout streams is easy. Nearby Aluminé sits on the banks of Río Aluminé, one of the country’s most highly regarded trout streams. Bariloche and Villa la Angostura are other excellent bases.

Further south, Parque Nacional Los Alerces (near Esquel) has outstanding lakes and rivers. From El Chaltén, you can do day trips to Lago del Desierto or Laguna Larga. Río Gallegos is a superb fly-fishing destination. Other important Patagonian rivers include Río Negro and Río Santa Cruz.

The city of Río Grande, on Tierra del Fuego, is world famous for its fly-fishing. Its eponymous river holds some of the largest sea-run brown trout in the world.

Deep-sea fishing is possible in Camarones and Puerto Deseado; near Gobernador Gregores there’s a lake with salmon and rainbow trout.

In subtropical northeast Argentina, the wide Río Paraná attracts fly-fishers, spin fishers and trollers from around the world, who pull in massive river species, such as surubí (a huge catfish) and dorado (a trout-like freshwater game fish). The dorado, not to be confused with the saltwater mahi-mahi, is a powerful swimmer and one of the most exciting fish to catch on a fly.

Guides & Services

In smaller towns such as Junín de los Andes, you can usually go to the local tourist office and request a list of local fishing guides or operators. Another good option for independent anglers heading to the Lake District is the Asociación de Guías Profesionales de Pesca Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi y Patagonia Norte (www.guiaspatagonicos.com.ar), which maintains a list and contact details of licensed guides for northern Patagonia and the Lake District. For information about fly-fishing, contact Asociación Argentina de Pesca con Mosca (www.aapm.org.ar).

Many anglers use tour agencies based outside Argentina for guided fishing excursions.

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Paragliding, Bariloche | NORBERTO MARIO LAURIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Rules & Regulations

In the Lake District and Patagonia, the season runs from November through April or May. In the northeast, the season runs from February to October. Certain lakes and streams on private land may stay open longer.

Trout fishing is almost always mandatory catch and release. Throughout Patagonia (including the Lake District), native species should always be thrown back. These are usually smaller than trout and include perca (perch), puyen (common galaxias, a narrow fish native to the southern hemisphere), Patagonian pejerrey and the rare peladilla.

Fishing licenses are required and available at tackle shops, clubs de caza y pesca (hunting and fishing clubs), and sometimes at tourist offices and YPF gas stations.

Skiing & Snowboarding

Argentina’s mountains have outstanding skiing, offering superb powder and plenty of sunny days. Many resorts have large ski schools with instructors from all over the world, so language is not a problem. At some of the older resorts, equipment can be a little antiquated, but in general the quality of skiing more than compensates.

There are three main snow-sport areas: Mendoza, the Lake District and Ushuaia. Mendoza is near Argentina’s premier resort, Las Leñas, which has the best snow and longest runs; the resort Los Penitentes is also nearby. The Lake District is home to several low-key resorts, including Cerro Catedral, near Bariloche, and Cerro Chapelco, near San Martín de los Andes. Although the snow doesn’t get as powdery here, the views are superior to Las Leñas. And Esquel, further south in Patagonia, has great powder at La Hoya.

The world’s most southerly commercial skiing is near Ushuaia. The ski season everywhere generally runs from mid-June to mid-October.

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Las Leñas | BY WALTER TRENTIN /SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CATCHING THE WIND

From around the world, windsurfing and kiteboarding fanatics drag an insane amount of gear to an isolated spot in the central Andes: Dique Cuesta del Viento, literally ‘slope of the wind reservoir.’ The reservoir, near the small village of Rodeo in San Juan province, is one of the best wind-sports destinations on the planet. Its consistent and extremely powerful wind blows every afternoon, without fail, from October to early May. We checked it out and it blew us away!

Cycling

Cycling is a popular activity among Argentines, and spandex-clad cyclists are a common sight along many roads (despite a decided lack of bike lanes in the country). There are some outstanding paved routes, especially in the Lake District and, to a lesser extent, in the Andean northwest.

In the northwest, there are several excellent road routes, including the highway from Tucumán to Tafí del Valle, the direct road from Salta to Jujuy, and, arguably most spectacular of all, RN 68, which takes you through the Quebrada de Cafayate. The Central Sierras are also great candidates for cycling, and the mostly paved network of roads rolls past a countryside that is at times reminiscent of Scotland. Mendoza boasts some epic routes through the Andes, but most are doable only for the seasoned cyclist – those lacking thighs of glory can entertain themselves by pedaling between wineries in Maipú.

In the Lake District’s Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, there are several excellent loops (including the Circuito Chico) that skirt gorgeous lakes and take in some of Patagonia’s most spectacular scenery. Cyclists often take their bikes on the Cruce de Lagos, a famous two-day boat-bus journey across the Andes to Chile.

Patagonia is a popular and mythical destination, with its desolate, beautiful landscapes and wide-open skies. However, be ready for fierce, multidirectional winds and rough gravel roads. Take four-season gear, even in summer, when long days and relatively warm weather make for the best touring. The classic road down here is RN 40, but cycling is tough because of the winds and lack of water; most cyclists alternate sections with Chile’s Carretera Austral.

In recent years, Buenos Aires has become a more bike-friendly destination, with an expanding system of dedicated bike lanes, along with a free bike-share program. Mendoza and Córdoba also have some dedicated bike lanes.

SAILING...ON LAND?

In San Juan province’s Parque Nacional El Leoncito, the lake bed of Pampa El Leoncito has become the epicenter of carrovelismo (land sailing). Here, people zip across the dry lake bed beneath Andean peaks in so-called sail cars. If you’re interested, head straight to Barreal.

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Bike riding near Cerro Catedral | GUAXINIM /SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Mountain Biking

Mountain biking is fairly undeveloped in Argentina and you’ll find few places have true single tracks for mountain bikers. However, at most outdoor hubs (such as Bariloche) you can rent a mountain bike for a day of independent pedaling or for guided mountain-bike rides – a fantastic way to see parts of an area you wouldn’t otherwise explore.

Good places with mountain-bike rentals include San Martín de los Andes, Villa la Angostura, Bariloche and El Bolsón in the Lake District; Esquel in Patagonia; Mendoza and Uspallata in Mendoza province; Barreal in San Juan province; Tilcara in the Andean Northwest; and Tandil in La Pampa province.

White-Water Rafting & Kayaking

Currently, Río Mendoza and Río Diamante in Mendoza province are the reigning white-water destinations, while Río Juramento near Salta is an exciting alternative.

If you want great scenery, however, it’s all about Patagonia. The Río Hua Hum and Río Meliquina, near San Martín de los Andes, and Río Limay and Río Manso, near Bariloche, are all spectacular. So is Río Aluminé, near wee Aluminé. From the Patagonian town of Esquel, you can join a rafting trip on the incredibly scenic, glacial-fed Río Corcovado. A relatively unknown rafting destination is Barreal, but it’s more about the epic Andean scenery than the rapids. Scenic Class II to III floats are possible on most of these rivers, while Class IV runs are possible on the Ríos Mendoza, Diamante, Meliquina, Hua Hum and Corcovado. Experience is generally unnecessary for guided runs.

Kayaking is possible on many of the rivers mentioned, and also around Ushuaia, El Chaltén, Viedma, Puerto Madryn, Paraná, Rosario and Salta. Sea kayakers have options at Río Deseado and the estancia (ranch) at Bahía Bustamante.

Paragliding & Skydiving

Paragliding is popular in Argentina and it’s a great place to take tandem flights or classes. Many agencies in Bariloche offer paragliding. Tucumán is especially big on this sport, but Salta, La Rioja and Merlo also have options in or near the Andean Northwest. Perhaps the best place is La Cumbre, in Córdoba’s Central Sierras, also a thrilling place to try skydiving.

Plan Your Trip

Eat & Drink Like a Local

Argentines are artists at the grill. Pasta and gnocchi is invariably fresh, while the best pizzas vie with those of New York and Naples. Pair any of this with some fabulous Argentine wines. Mate, that iconic tea, doubles as a social bond between family and friends. And don’t skip a scoop or two of gelato, preferably with dulce de leche.

Tips for Eating Out

Reservations

Only necessary on weekends at better restaurants (or high season at Mar del Plata or Bariloche, for example).

Budgeting

To save a few bucks at lunch, opt for the menú del día or menú ejecutivo. These ‘set menus’ usually include a main dish, dessert and drink.

Large, modern supermarkets are common, and they’ll have whatever you need for self-catering, including (usually) a takeout counter.

Paying the Bill

Ask for your bill by saying, ‘la cuenta, por favor’ (‘the bill, please’) or making the ‘writing in air’ gesture. Some restaurants accept credit cards, but others (usually smaller ones) only take cash. This is especially true outside big cities.

At fancier restaurants, your final bill may arrive with a cubierto (small cover charge for bread and use of utensils). This is not a tip, which is usually around 10% and a separate charge.

Staples & Specialties

Beef

When the first Spaniards came to Argentina, they brought cattle. But efforts to establish a colony proved unfruitful, and the herds were abandoned in the pampas. Here the cows found the bovine equivalent of heaven: plenty of lush, fertile grasses on which to feed and few natural predators. After the Europeans recolonized, they bred these cattle with other bovine breeds.

Traditionally, free-range Argentine cows ate nutritious pampas grass and were raised without antibiotics and growth hormones. But this culture is being lost, and today most beef in restaurants comes from feedlots.

Average beef consumption in Argentina is around 59kg per person per year – though in the past, they ate much more.

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Grilled beef steak | HLPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Italian & Spanish

Thanks to Argentina’s Italian heritage, the national cuisine has been highly influenced by Italian immigrants who entered the country during the late 19th century. Along with an animated set of speaking gestures, they brought their love of pasta, pizza, gelato and more.

Many restaurants make their own pasta – look for pasta casera (handmade pasta). Some of the varieties of pasta you’ll encounter are ravioles, sorrentinos (large, round pasta parcels similar to ravioli), ñoquis (gnocchi) and tallarines (fettuccine). Standard sauces include tuco (tomato sauce), estofado (beef stew, popular with ravioli) and salsa blanca (béchamel). Be aware that occasionally the sauce is not included in the price of the pasta – you choose and pay for it separately.

Pizza is offered at pizzerias, many with stone or brick ovens, though restaurants offer it too. It’s generally excellent and cheap.

Spanish cooking is less popular than Italian, but forms another bedrock of Argentine food. In Spanish restaurants here you’ll find paella and other typical Spanish dishes. Most of the country’s guisos and pucheros (types of stew) are descendants from Spain.

Local Specialties

Although comidas típicas can refer to any of Argentina’s regional dishes, it often refers to food from the Andean Northwest. Food from this region, which has roots in pre-Columbian times, has more in common with the cuisines of Bolivia and Peru than with the Europeanized food of the rest of Argentina. It’s frequently spicy and hard to find elsewhere (most Argentines can’t tolerate anything spicy). Typical dishes can include everything from locro (a hearty corn or mixed-grain stew with meat) and tamales to humitas (sweet tamales) and fried empanadas.

In Patagonia, lamb is as common as beef. Along the coast, seafood is a popular choice and includes fish, oysters and king crab – though seafood is often overcooked. In the Lake District, game meats such as venison, wild boar and trout are popular. In the west, the provinces of Mendoza, San Juan and La Rioja pride themselves on chivito (young goat). River fish, such as the dorado, pacú (a relative of the piranha) and surubí (a type of catfish), are staples in the northeast.

Snacks

Kioscos (kiosks) are all over town and provide sweets, cookies, ice cream and packaged sandwiches. On the streets, pancho (hot dog) and garrapiñadas (sugar-roasted peanuts) sellers prepare and sell their treats from carts.

Sandwiches de miga (thin, crustless sandwiches, usually with cheese and ham) are popular tea-time snacks. Lomitos (steak sandwiches) are the pinnacle of Argentine sandwiches, while the choripán is a classic barbecue sausage sandwich.

Empanadas – small, stuffed turnovers ubiquitous in Argentina – are prepared differently throughout the country (you’ll find spicy ground-beef empanadas in the Andean Northwest, while in Patagonia lamb is a common filling). They make for a tasty, quick meal and are especially good for bus travel.

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Empanadas | GABRIELDOME/GETTY IMAGES ©

Desserts & Sweets

Two of Argentina’s most definitive treats are dulce de leche (a creamy milk caramel) and alfajores (round, cookie-type sandwiches often covered in chocolate). Each region of Argentina has its own version of the alfajor.

Because of Argentina’s Italian heritage, Argentine helado is comparable to the best ice cream anywhere in the world. There are heladerías (ice-cream stores) in every town, where the luscious concoctions will be swirled into a peaked mountain and handed over with a plastic spoon stuck in the side. Don’t miss this special treat.

In restaurants, fruit salad and ice cream are often on the menu, while flan is a baked custard that comes with either cream or dulce de leche topping.

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Alfajores (cookie-type sandwiches) | AS FOOD STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE SKINNY ON BEEF

You walk into a traditional parrilla (steak restaurant), breeze past the sizzling grill at the entrance and sit down. You’ve never had to choose between more than two or three cuts of steak in your life, but the menu has at least 10 choices. What to do?

If you want to try a bit of everything, go for the parrillada (mixed grill). It often includes chorizo (beef or pork sausage), costillas (ribs) and carne (beef). It can also come with more exotic items such as chinchulines (small intestines), mollejas (sweetbreads) and morcilla (blood sausage). Order a parrillada for as many people as you want and the parrilla will adjust servings accordingly.

Prime beef cuts include the following:

Bife de chorizo Sirloin; a thick and juicy cut.

Bife de costilla T-bone or Porterhouse steak.

Bife de lomo Tenderloin; a tender though less flavorful piece.

Cuadril Rump steak; often a thin cut.

Ojo de bife Rib eye; a choice smaller morsel.

Tira de asado Short ribs; thin crispy strips of ribs.

Vacío Flank steak; textured, chewy and tasty.

If you don’t specify, your steak will be cooked a punto (medium to well done). Getting a steak medium rare or rare is more difficult than you’d imagine. If you want a little pink in the center, order it jugoso; if you like it truly rare, try vuelta y vuelta. Often it comes overcooked, however; try showing your server a photo of a cut steak, cooked the way you want it.

Don’t miss chimichurri, a tasty sauce often made of olive oil, garlic and parsley. Occasionally you can get salsa criolla, a condiment made of diced tomatoes, onion and parsley.

If you’re lucky enough to be invited to an asado (family or friends’ barbecue), do attend – here the art of grilling beef has been perfected, and the social bonding is priceless.

Drinks

Nonalcoholic Drinks

Argentines love their coffee, and you can order several versions. A café con leche is half coffee and half milk, while a cortado is an espresso with a little milk. A café chico is an espresso and a lagrima is mostly milk with a few drops of coffee.

Té negro or té común is black tea; herbal tea is usually manzanilla (chamomile). Chocolate lovers should try a submarino, a bar of chocolate melted in hot milk. Fresh-squeezed orange juice is jugo de naranja exprimido. A licuado is fruit blended with milk or water.

Even in big cities like Buenos Aires, the agua de canilla (tap water) is drinkable. In restaurants, however, most people order bottled mineral water – ask for agua con gas (with bubbles) or agua sin gas (without). In older, more traditional restaurants, carbonated water in a spritzer bottle (un sifón de soda) is a great for drinking. Gaseosas (soft drinks) are very popular in Argentina.

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Mate (a tea-like beverage) | ANETA_GU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Alcoholic Drinks

Mendoza is Argentina’s premier wine region and well known for its robust malbec, but other provinces also produce excellent wines. San Juan is famous for its syrah and Cafayate for its torrontés, a crisp, dry white wine. Meanwhile, the Patagonia region is becoming a stronghouse for pinot noir.

If Argentina has a national beer, it’s Quilmes. Order a porrón and you’ll get bottled beer (a half-liter bottle in BA; a big bottle up north); a chopp is a mug of draft.

Most fine restaurants have a wine list, called la carta de vinos. Sommeliers are scarce. At the harder end of the spectrum, it’s all about Fernet Branca, a bitter, herbed Italian digestif originally intended as medicine. Fernet con Coke is Argentina’s favorite cocktail and, despite claims that it won’t give you hangover, it will (trust us).

Where to Eat & Drink

Restaurants are generally open from noon to 3.30pm for lunch and 8pm or 9pm to midnight for dinner, though exact hours will vary depending on the restaurant.

For the best meats, head to a parrilla (steak restaurant). Panaderías are bakeries. Confiterías (cafes serving light meals) are open all day and into the night, and often have a long list of both food and drinks. Cafes, bars and pubs usually have a more limited range of snacks and meals available, though some can offer full meals. A tenedor libre (literally, ‘free fork’) is an all-you-can-eat restaurant; quality is usually decent, but a minimum-drink purchase is often mandatory and costs extra.

Argentines eat little for breakfast – usually just a coffee with medialunas (croissants – either de manteca, sweet, or de grasa, plain). Tostadas