Lonely Planet Nicaragua

By Anna Kaminski, Bridget Gleeson and Tom Masters

Lonely Planet Nicaragua is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Kayak through Central America's largest mangrove forest, experience life on a coffee farm, or chill out on idyllic white-sand beaches -all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Nicaragua and begin your journey now!

Inside Lonely Planet Nicaragua:

• Colour maps and images throughout
• Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests
• Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots
• Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, transit tips, prices
• Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sight-seeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss
• Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, architecture, land & wildlife, arts, cuisine
• Covers Managua, Masaya, Los Pueblos Blancos, Granada, Southwestern Nicaragua, Leon, Northwestern Nicaragua, Northern Highlands, Caribbean Coast, San Carlos, Islas Solentiname, San Juan and more

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet Nicaragua, our most comprehensive guide to Nicaragua, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less travelled.

About Lonely Planet: Since 1973, Lonely Planet has become the world's leading travel media company with guidebooks to every destination, an award-winning website, mobile and digital travel products, and a dedicated traveler community. Lonely Planet covers must-see spots but also enables curious travelers to get off beaten paths to understand more of the culture of the places in which they find themselves.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Jul 1, 2019
• ISBN: 9781788685436

Anna Kaminski

Originaria de la Unión Soviética, Anna Kaminski creció en Cambridge, en el Reino Unido. Salió de la Universidad de Warwick con una carrera en Estudios Comparados Americanos, una formación en historia, cultura y literatura de EE UU y el Caribe, y un amor imperecedero por América Latina. Sus andanzas la llevaron a instalarse brevemente en Oaxaca y Bangkok, y su flirteo con el derecho penal hizo que trabajara de asistenta legal como voluntaria en los tribunales, guetos y cárceles de Kingston, en Jamaica. Anna ha colaborado en casi 30 títulos de Lonely Planet.

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Nicaragua

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Nicaragua

Nicaragua’s Top 15

Need to Know

First Time Nicaragua

If You Like...

Month by Month

Itineraries

Off the Beaten Track

Nicaragua Outdoors

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

Managua

Sights

Activities

Courses

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Around Managua

Masachapa & Pochomil

Reserva Natural Chocoyero–El Brujo

San Diego

Masaya & Los Pueblos Blancos

Masaya

Parque Nacional Volcán Masaya

Nindirí

Los Pueblos Blancos

Catarina

San Juan de Oriente

Diriá & Diriomo

Niquinohomo

Masatepe

Carazo Towns

Diriamba

Jinotepe

Reserva Ecólogica La Maquina

La Boquita

Casares

Granada

Sights

Activities

Courses

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Around Granada

Volcán Mombacho

Reserva Natural Laguna de Apoyo

Isla Zapatera

Isletas de Granada

Southwestern Nicaragua

Rivas

San Jorge

Isla de Ometepe

Moyogalpa

Volcán Concepción

Around Volcán Concepción

Altagracia

Playa Santo Domingo & Santa Cruz

Volcán Maderas

Around Volcán Maderas

Pacific Beaches

Tola & the Tola Beaches

Refugio de Vida Silvestre Río Escalante–Chacocente

San Juan Del Sur

Beaches North of San Juan del Sur

Beaches South of San Juan del Sur

León & Northwestern Nicaragua

León

Pacific Beaches near León

Volcanoes near León

San Jacinto

El Sauce

Chinandega

Around Chinandega

Cosigüina Peninsula Beaches

Reserva Natural Volcán Cosigüina

Northern Highlands

Estelí

Área Protegida Miraflor

Condega

Somoto

Ocotal

Dipilto

Ocotal to Jalapa

Jalapa

Estelí–Jinotega Road

Jinotega

Reserva Natural Cerro Datanlí–El Diablo

Lago de Apanás

Matagalpa

San Ramón

Reserva Natural Cerro El Arenal

La Dalia & Peñas Blancas

South of Matagalpa

Caribbean Coast

Bilwi (Puerto Cabezas)

Around Bilwi

Miskito Keys

Waspám & the Río Coco

Managua–El Rama Road

El Rama

Bluefields

Pearl Lagoon

Around Pearl Lagoon

Pearl Keys

Corn Islands

Las Minas

San Carlos, Islas Solentiname & The Río San Juan

San Carlos

San Miguelito

Islas Solentiname

Refugio de Vida Silvestre Los Guatuzos

Río San Juan

Understand

Nicaragua Today

History

Nicaraguan Way of Life

Arts & Architecture

Land & Wildlife

Survival Guide

Political Unrest & Traveler Safety

On the Ground

Dos & Don’ts

Directory A–Z

Accessible Travel

Accommodations

Activities

Children

Climate

Customs Regulations

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Food

Health

Insurance

Internet Access

Language Courses

Legal Matters

LGBT Travelers

Maps

Money

Opening Hours

Photography

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Visas

Volunteering

Women Travelers

Work

Transportation

Getting There & Away

Entering the Country

Air

Land

River

Sea

Getting Around

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Hitchhiking

Local Transportation

Language

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Map Legend

Welcome to Nicaragua

An affable all-rounder, Nicaragua embraces travelers with diverse offerings of volcanic landscapes, colonial architecture, sensational beaches, remote, idyllic islands, wave-battered Pacific beaches and pristine forests.

Beaches

Whether it’s dipping your toes into the crystalline Caribbean or paddling out to the crashing waves of the pounding Pacific, Nicaragua’s beaches always deliver the goods. The big barrels of the Pacific coast are revered in surfing circles while the clear waters of the Corn Islands are superb for snorkeling. More sedentary beach bums can choose between accessible slices of sand lined with fine restaurants and happening bars, and natural affairs backed by a wall of rainforest. Even the best beaches in the country are refreshingly free of development.

Outdoor Adventures

Looking for the ultimate rush? Nicaragua’s diverse geography, intense energy and anything-goes attitude is perfect for exhilarating outdoor adventures. Get ready to check off lots of new experiences from your list including surfing down an active volcano, diving into underwater caves, canoeing through alligator-infested wetlands, swimming across sea channels between tiny white-sand islands and landing a 90-plus-kilogram tarpon beneath a Spanish fortress in the middle of the jungle. Nicaragua’s great outdoors are relatively untamed making this so-called ‘land of lakes and volcanoes’ a fantastic place for an independent adventure.

Colonial Architecture

Nicaragua’s colonial architecture comes in two distinct flavors. The elegant streetscapes of Granada, Nicaragua’s best-preserved colonial town, have been entrancing travelers for centuries with their architectural grace. The town boasts a meticulously restored cathedral, well-groomed plaza and perfectly maintained mansions that shelter lush internal courtyards. Far less polished, working-class and vibrant León offers a different colonial experience where crumbling 300-year-old houses and churches are interspersed with revolutionary murals, and architectural masterpieces house corner stores.

Getting Off the Beaten Track

Few destinations have such beauty as Nicaragua, yet remain undeveloped. Before you know it, you’ve dropped off the tourist trail and into a world of majestic mountains, cooperative farms, wetlands thronged with wildlife and empty jungle-clad beaches. Rent a 4WD vehicle, if you’re up for it – it’s the best way to access some of the less-traveled corners of the country, or hop abroad an east-coast-bound boat – and discover remote indigenous communities, overgrown pre-Columbian ruins and untouched rainforests. No matter how far you go, you’ll always find friendly locals willing to share their culture with strangers.

Iglesia El Calvario, León | MEHDI33300 / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Why I Love Nicaragua

By Anna Kaminski, Writer

I first got to know Nicaragua many years ago, when backpacking across Central America. I learned of the proxy war played out on Nicaraguan soil, courtesy of the USSR and the USA, and witnessed the still-healing scars from the conflict. Even then, Nicaragua struck me as an incredibly resilient country and Central America’s ultimate all-rounder. It has a rich and fascinating history, and beautiful and varied landscapes – from barely explored jungle to arid volcanoes and windswept Pacific beaches. But what draws me back, above all, is the warmth and tenacity of its people.

For more, see Our Writers

At the time of writing Nicaragua had been experiencing political unrest since April 2018, see Political Unrest & Traveler Safety.

Nicaragua’s Top 15

Granada

Granada is a town of immense and palpable magnetism. At the heart of the city’s charms are the picture-perfect cobblestone streets, polychromatic colonial homes and churches, and a lilting air that brings the city’s spirited past into present-day focus. Most trips here begin and end on foot, and simply dawdling from gallery to restaurant to colonial church can take up the better part of a day. From there, it’s off to explore the myriad wild areas, islands, volcanoes and artisan villages nearby.

FOTOS593 / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Little Corn Island

With no cars and no noise, just white-sand beaches and secluded coves mixing with the crystal-clear Caribbean, Little Corn Island is the paramount place to take a break from the big city. There is plenty to keep you occupied during the day, including diving with hammerhead sharks or through underground caves, kitesurfing the stiff breeze or scrambling over jungle-covered headlands, and there’s just enough to do at night. Add some great food to the mix and it’s no surprise that many find it so hard to leave.

Sea fan on coral reef | PETE NIESEN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Isla de Ometepe

Lago de Nicaragua’s beloved centerpiece, Isla de Ometepe has it all. Twin volcanoes, lush hillsides cut by walking tracks, archaeological remains, ziplines, monkeys and birdlife, waterfalls, lapping waves at your doorstep, and a laid-back island air that keeps travelers in the now as they step, kayak, bike and climb their way through this once-lost paradise. At the heart of the island’s charms are the cool hostels, camping areas and peaceful traveler scenes. From high-end luxury lodges to groovy-groupie hippie huts, Ometepe is big enough for all kinds.

Volcán Maderas | JOHN COLETTI / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

León

A royal city with revolutionary undercurrents, León both enchants and baffles the legions of backpackers and adventure seekers who gravitate here. Within the city, you’ll find an artsy, slightly edgy vibe originally fueled by the Sandinista revolution and now by the university and a 120-horsepower party scene. Come sunrise, you can spend a good day exploring the cathedral, museums and downtown area, before heading further afield to honey-blonde beaches, volcanoes and brokeback cowboy towns with some of the friendliest people you’ll find anywhere on earth,

Catedral de León | CHRISPICTURES / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Pearl Keys

As you approach the dozen tiny islands ringed by snow-white sand and brilliant Caribbean waters that make up the Pearl Keys, you will enter the realms of the ultimate shipwreck fantasy. Fortunately, you’ll be marooned with a capable Creole guide who will cook a spectacular seafood meal and source ice-cold beers from a mysterious supply, leaving you heaps of time to swim, snorkel, spot sea turtles, or just lie back in your hammock and take in the idyllic panoramic views.

PIXIEME / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Río San Juan

Once favored by both pirates and prospectors as a sure path to riches, today the Río San Juan is exalted by nature lovers. All along the river, scores of birds nest on branches overhanging its slow surging waters while its lower reaches are dominated by the Reserva Biológica Indio-Maíz, an impenetrable jungle that shelters jaguars and troupes of noisy monkeys. The only human-made attraction along the river’s entire length is the grand Spanish fort over the rapids at El Castillo.

Plumed basilisk lizard | ECO2DREW / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Coffee Country

A visit to Nicaragua’s coffee zone is about more than just sipping plenty of joe, it’s about getting out and seeing where it all comes from. Hike among the bushes shaded by ethereal cloud forest around Jinotega and pick ripe cherries alongside your hosts in a community farming cooperative near Matagalpa. And why stop there when you can follow the beans to the roasting plant and then learn to identify flavors in a cupping session. After this, you’ll savor your morning cup in a whole new way.

MORGAN ARNOLD / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Surfing Near San Juan del Sur

Nicaragua sparked into international stardom on the wake of tanned-and-toned surfer dudes and dudettes. And the surfing scene north and south of regional hub San Juan del Sur remains cool, reefed-out, soulful and downright brilliant. The stars of the scene are the long rideable waves that fit the bill for surfers of all abilities, but the relaxed surf camps, beach parties and cool breezes add to the vibe, ensuring a great beach vacation for everybody in your crew (even the boogie boarders).

Playa Hermosa | MIKEBLUE / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Volcán Masaya & Laguna de Apoyo

Hovering above the artisan villages of Nicaragua’s Central Plateau, the smoldering Volcán Masaya and its surrounding national park are a highlight not to be missed. This is one of the region’s most active volcanoes, and it’s pretty exciting just to see the sulfurous columns of gas billow toward the sky as you relish the milliondollar views. Gaze into the maw of hell at night, when lava bubbles restlessly in the crater. Nearby, cool off with a dip in gorgeous crater lake Laguna de Apoyo.

TANGUY DE SAINT-CYR / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Turtles at La Flor

Head to Nicaragua’s southern Pacific coast between July and January to witness sea turtles by the thousands come to shore to lay their eggs at Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Flor. There’s a decent beach here, as well, but the highlight is a night tour (generally from nearby San Juan del Sur), where, if you’re lucky, you’ll see a leatherback or olive ridley mama come to shore to lay her eggs at the end of one of nature’s most inspiring and remarkable journeys.

Olive Ridley turtle | EVAN BOWEN-JONES / ALAMY ©

Top Experiences

Islas Solentiname

The Islas Solentiname are straight out of a fairy tale. You simply must visit in order to experience the magic of this remote jungle-covered archipelago where a community of exceptionally talented artists live and work among the wild animals that are their inspiration. It’s a place where an enlightened priest inspired a village to construct a handsome church alive with the sounds of nature, and shooting stars illuminate the speckled night sky. Even after having been there, you will still find it hard to believe it’s real.

Isla San Fernando | GUIZIOU FRANCK / HEMIS.FR / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Volcano Boarding on Cerro Negro

What goes up must come down. But why walk when you can strap on a custom-built volcano board and rip-roar your way down a slope of fine volcanic ash? And one of the best spots on the planet to dig the new adrenaline sport of volcano surfing is atop 700-plus-meter Volcán Cerro Negro in northwestern Nicaragua’s Reserva Natural Pilas-El Hoyo. Tour operators in León will even provide you with cool jumpsuits before you begin your dusty-bottomed descent.

PIXIEME / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Reserva Natural Estero Padre Ramos

The Reserva Natural Estero Padre Ramos is a vast nature reserve located in the far northwestern corner of Nicaragua. The largest remaining mangrove forest in Central America, the reserve is home to ocelots, alligators and a universe worth of birds that call the forest home. While this is a wild corner of Nicaragua, boats and kayaks will get you into the spider-webbing mangrove forest, to the beaches where sea turtles lay their eggs and good surf dominates, and into local communities.

JOSEPHINE BILLETER / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

The Remote Beaches of Popoyo

It’s a bumpy ride from Rivas to the remote beaches of Popoyo, famous for their surf breaks. The reward: huge, hollow breaks, laid-back surf lodges, sandy shores strewn with vibrant pink shells, looming rock formations and miles of empty shoreline where you can walk for an hour without seeing another person. While new surf lodges and guesthouses have popped up in recent years, the village communities are down-to-earth and friendly and these beaches still feel wild. Bring your board, or a good book.

EUGENE VORONIUK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Wildlife-Watching

From the colorful parakeets flying over busy Managua to ubiquitous iguanas scratching across your hotel roof, exotic wildlife is everywhere in Nicaragua. Dedicate some energy to the pursuit and you’ll discover some truly phenomenal natural spectacles. Head into the rugged rainforest-covered mountains of the Bosawás to spot three types of monkeys, toucans and tapirs, while reptile fans will not want to miss the alligators of Los Guatuzos. Wherever you go, keep your binoculars handy – a wild encounter is never far away.

Geoffroy’s spider monkey | LARANIK / SHUTTERSTOCK © / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Córdoba (C$), US dollar (US$)

Language

Spanish

Visas

Generally not required for stays up to three months.

Money

ATMs are widespread in most midsize towns. Credit cards are widely accepted in larger towns. US dollars are widely accepted; keep córdobas for small purchases.

Cell Phones

Local phone costs start at around US$15. You can also buy a SIM card (around US$3.50) for any unlocked GSM phone. Numerous cell-phone networks offer free roaming in Nicaragua. The two phone companies are Claro and Movistar.

Time

Central Standard Time (GMT/UTC minus six hours)

When to Go

High Season (Dec–Apr)

A Prices increase by up to 25% in popular tourist spots.

A Make reservations in advance for beachside accommodations.

A Hot, sunny and dry conditions throughout the country.

Shoulder (Nov)

A Rains ease throughout the Pacific but the Caribbean is still wet.

A Cool weather and green countryside make for the best trekking.

A Coffee harvesting energizes the northern region.

Low Season (May–Oct)

A Heavy rains make some roads in rural areas difficult to pass and mountain hiking trails slippery.

A The biggest swell on the Pacific side pulls a crowd to the best breaks.

A Advanced reservations are generally not necessary.

Useful Websites

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/nicaragua) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

Vianica.com (www.vianica.com/traveling) Log on to this interactive map and click on your route to find Nicaraguan road conditions, travel-time estimates and more.

Intur (www.intur.gob.ni) The official government website is in English and Spanish, with lots of cheerful, vague information and an awesome photo gallery.

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.

Political Unrest

At the time of writing, Nicaragua had been experiencing political unrest since April 2018. For more information, see Political Unrest & Traveler Safety.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than US$35

A Dorm bed: US$9–15

A Typical meal: US$4

A Museum admission: US$2

A Local bus: US$0.15–1

Midrange: US$35–80

A Double bed in a midrange hotel: US$20–45

A Restaurant meal: US$10–12

A Adventure tour: US$25–30

A Short taxi ride: US$2–3

Top end: More than US$80

A Double bed in a luxury hotel: US$80–120

A Gourmet meal: US$18–22

A Car hire: US$40–60

A Internal flight: US$100–120

Opening Hours

Opening hours vary wildly in Nicaragua as there are many informal and family-run establishments. General office hours are from 9am to 5pm.

Comedores (cheap eateries) usually open for breakfast and lunch while more formal restaurants serve lunch and dinner.

Banks 8:30am to 4:30pm Monday to Friday, to noon Saturday

Comedores 6am to 4pm

Government Offices 8am to to noon & 1 to 4pm Monday to Friday, 8am to noon Saturday

Museums 9am to noon & 2 to 5pm

Restaurants noon to 10pm

Bars noon to midnight

Clubs 9pm to 3am

Shops 9am to 6pm Monday to Saturday

Arriving in Managua

Managua International Airport (Managua) Official taxis inside the airport meet all incoming flights and charge around US$20 to US$25 to most local destinations. During the day, more-economical licensed collective taxis wait outside the domestic terminal.

If you’re heading out of Managua, it’s possible to book a pickup with a private shuttle service.

Urban buses head into town from the highway across the road from the terminal, but are rife with pickpockets and are not a good option if you have baggage.

Getting Around

Transport in Nicaragua is functional rather than comfortable.

Air Moderately priced and the fastest way to travel; however, they only serve more remote destinations. Often slightly delayed, but rarely canceled.

Car Renting a car enables travel at your own pace and access to off-the-beaten-track destinations. There is not much traffic on the roads outside Managua and driving in Nicaragua is fairly stress-free.

Bus Nicaragua’s old-school buses are slow and uncomfortable but will get you anywhere you want to go for next to nothing. There are more comfortable, but far from luxurious, coach services to some long-distance destinations.

Shuttle Tourist-oriented and air-conditioned, these minivans are the fastest and most comfortable way of traveling between popular destinations.

For much more, see Getting Around

First Time Nicaragua

For more information, see Survival Guide

Checklist

A Make sure your passport is valid for at least six months

A Check latest visa requirements online

A Arrange travel insurance with medical evacuation cover

A Inform your debit/credit-card issuer that you are traveling to Central America

A Organize vaccinations against hepatitis A and typhoid, and consult your doctor about malaria prophylactics

What to Pack

A Sturdy walking shoes

A Comfortable sports sandals

A Insect repellent containing DEET

A An emergency supply of US dollars in small bills

A A two-pronged electrical adapter

A A lightweight raincoat capable of resisting tropical downpours

A Contact lens solution and other personal toiletries

Top Tips for Your Trip

A Always go for a window seat in public transport: the landscapes are absolutely breathtaking.

A Take some Spanish classes. Nicaraguans are outgoing and friendly but few have foreign-language skills.

A Hire local guides wherever possible; they’re cheap and you’ll learn about the attraction you’re visiting and about the culture.

A Forget about keeping a tight schedule in Nicaragua. Allow extra days in your trip, especially if you’re traveling by public transport.

A When in doubt about getting into a taxi, just ask your hostel or hotel to call you one – and agree on a price before getting in.

What to Wear

The heat in Nicaragua can be oppressive, so you’ll probably spend most of your time in lightweight T-shirts and shorts or cotton trousers. If you’re heading to the northern highlands, you may need a medium pullover for the cool evenings.

Note that in general, men in Nicaragua don’t wear shorts unless practicing sports. Go for a jeans and short-sleeved shirt or polo shirt if you are going out with locals and be prepared to dress up for a night on the town in Granada or Managua.

On the beach women going topless is almost never acceptable and in rural areas bikinis may draw unwanted attention; consider swimming in shorts and a T-shirt like the locals.

Sleeping

Hospedajes These cheap guesthouses are often family-run and are sometimes the only option in smaller towns.

Hotels Larger and more polished; boutique hotels can be intimate and characterful.

Hostels Traveler’s hostels with dormitories and common areas are only found in the main tourist areas.

Ecolodges Usually at the higher end of the market, these offer comfortable rooms surrounded by nature.

Surfing lodges Offer all-inclusive surfing packages, and often shared accommodations and great food.

Safe Travel

At the time of writing, political unrest in Nicaragua had led to street protests, road blocks and outbreaks of violence. For more information see here.

Despite the fact that Nicaragua has one of the lowest crime rates in Central America, as a ‘wealthy’ foreigner you will at least be considered a potential target by scam artists and thieves.

A Pay extra attention to personal safety in Managua, the Caribbean region, around remote southern beaches and in undeveloped nature reserves.

A In larger cities, ask your hotel to call a trusted taxi.

A Backcountry hikers should note there may be unexploded ordnance in very remote areas, especially around the Honduran border. If in doubt, take a local guide.

Local bus in Granada | TIAGO_FERNANDEZ / GETTYIMAGES ©

Bargaining

All-out haggling is not really part of Nicaraguan culture. However, a bit of bargaining over a hotel room is considered acceptable, and negotiating the price in markets or with roadside vendors is the norm.

Tipping

Tipping is not widespread in Nicaragua except with guides and at restaurants.

Guides Tipping guides is recommended as this often makes up the lion’s share of their salary.

Restaurants A tip of around 10% is expected for table service. Some high-end restaurants automatically add this to the bill. Small and/or rural eateries may not include the tip, so leave behind a few coins.

Language

In major tourist destinations such as Granada, San Juan del Sur and León, you’ll find a number of people who speak at least some English. Elsewhere, very little English is spoken. Learning some basic Spanish phrases will make your travels much more rewarding, especially if you’re traveling to remote destinations. Hiring a translator to accompany you around town or on longer trips is affordable – ask at your hotel.

On the Caribbean coast English speakers will have no problem communicating with Creole residents, once you’re used to the accent and grammar.

See the Language chapter.

Etiquette

Greetings A firm handshake for men and a peck on the cheek for women.

Titles When addressing Nicaraguans add don (for men) or doña (for women) before their given name.

Drinking If you are sharing a bottle of rum, use the supplied shot glass to measure your drink; don’t pour freely from the bottle.

If You Like...

Beaches

The Pacific has the waves, the Caribbean has the reefs.

Little Corn Island Brilliant turquoise waters meet snow-white sand in secluded coves on this enchanted isle.

Playa El Coco A spectacular stretch of sparkling sand framed by imposing forest-covered headlands.

Pearl Keys Live out shipwreck fantasies beneath the coconut palms on this group of idyllic Caribbean islands.

El Ostional Charming fishing village with a sweeping brown-sand beach.

Playa Aserradores Long, smooth stretch of sand with a powerful, hollow beach break.

Great Corn Island Often overlooked, Great Corn has several gorgeous expanses of beautiful golden sand beach.

Popoyo Famous surf breaks and miles of practically untouched shoreline make Popoyo a hot spot.

Volcanoes

Volcán Masaya Watch lava bubble restlessly in the crater of one of the country’s most active volcanoes.

Volcán Maderas Hike up through cloud forest to reach a chilly jade-green crater lake.

Volcán Momotombo Perched regally at the top of Lake Managua, its perfect cone is a symbol of Nicaragua.

Volcán San Cristóbal Nicaragua’s tallest volcano and toughest trek, with epic summit views.

Volcán Cosigüina Climb the remnants of what was Central America’s biggest volcano to look out over three countries.

Volcán Mombacho Accessible cloud forest with great hiking and even better birdwatching.

Colonial Architecture

Granada Nicaragua’s colonial showpiece lays on the charm from the moment you get off the bus.

León Energetic and unpretentious, this gregarious city has stunning colonial streetscapes, awe-inspiring churches and cosmopolitan eateries.

Ciudad Antigua Boasting a remarkable Moorish-influenced 17th-century church, this is one of Nicaragua’s oldest towns.

San Rafael del Norte Surrounded by peaks, this charming town is centered around the light-filled Templo Parroquial San Rafael Arcángel.

Colonial-era building in León | HOLGS / GETTY IMAGES ©

Coffee

Matagalpa and Jinotega departments have the pedigree but Estelí and little-visited Nueva Segovia also produce some outstanding beans.

La Bastilla Ecolodge Hike through immense shade-grown coffee plantations before improving your cupping skills at the laboratory.

San Ramón Try your hand picking coffee beans at local farms then visit a community roasting plant.

Eco-Albergue La Fundadora Stay at this epically located hilltop finca, surrounded by cloud forest and coffee plantations

Área Protegida Miraflor Combine your coffee tour with birdwatching or a visit to waterfalls surrounded by cloud forest.

DeLaFinca Cafe If you can’t make it out to coffee country, sample Nicaragua’s finest beans in the capital.

Wildlife

Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Flor Watching turtles laying their eggs on this beach is one of Latin America’s superlative experiences.

Refugio Bartola Head into the jungle to spot monkeys, fluorescent frogs and maybe even a tapir.

Volcán Mombacho Accessible cloud forest with great hiking and even better birdwatching.

Refugio de Vida Silvestre Los Guatuzos Perfectly preserved wetlands with fantastic birdwatching during the day and action-packed crocodile spotting at night.

Islas Solentiname Bring binoculars to spot some of the thousands of migratory birds nesting in this remote archipelago.

Reserva Natural Macizos de Peñas Blancas Clinging to magnificent mountain peaks, this jungle is home to pumas, jaguars and ocelots.

Reserva Natural Isla Juan Venado Take a nighttime turtle tour during laying season – July through January – at this barrier island.

Artisan Crafts

San Juan de Oriente Head to the homes of ceramics masters to pick up Central America’s most exquisite pottery.

Artesanias La Esquina Pick up a sculpted wooden bowl or ceramic cup at this artisan co-op in Estelí.

The Garden Shop This fair-trade boutique stocks clothing, crafts, shoes, paper goods and gourmet products produced at women’s co-ops.

Paseo Salvador Allende On weekends, artisans sell their wares on Managua’s newly revamped waterfront promenade.

Mercado de Artesanía You might not take one home, but Masatepe is famous for cane-woven rocking chairs.

Ceramic pots for sale in San Juan de Oriente | SVETLANA BYKOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

Noche de Agüizotes, October

Maypole, May

Turtle-watching at La Flor, October

International Poetry Festival, February

La Purísima in León, December

January

Perfect beach weather in the Pacific region with almost nonstop sunshine, but it’s the peak of high season so expect bigger crowds and more expensive accommodations.

z Baseball Finals

Stadiums get packed for the finals of Liga Nacional de Beisbol Nicaraguense (Nicaraguan National Baseball League). Catch games at the Estadio Denis Martínez in Managua.

February

Crowds thin out but it’s still all sunshine, making this one of the best times to plan a beach break. It can be uncomfortably hot in cities.

0 International Poetry Festival

Top Spanish-language wordsmiths from around the globe gather for this festival in Granada that celebrates the spoken word, with regular readings and well-attended fringe events.

Parade at the International Poetry Festival, Granada | STEFANO PATERNA / ALAMY ©

March

The heat wave continues with soaring temperatures and dry conditions. Whether it falls in March or April, Easter is big business: prices spike, accommodations sell out and beaches are packed.

z Semana Santa

Easter is a huge deal all over the country, but nowhere does it quite like León, where the traditional fireworks and parades are accompanied by sawdust mosaics and a sandcastle competition.

Colorful sawdust ‘carpets’ created for Semana Santa, León | CNICBC / GETTY IMAGES ©

April

More sunshine, this time accompanied by big, consistent surf in the Pacific and calm seas throughout the Caribbean, ideal for diving and snorkelling. After Easter, crowds drop dramatically.

2 Surf’s up!

The combination of big swells along the Pacific and bright sunshine brings optimal conditions (and big crowds) to many of Nicaragua’s best surf breaks, including the acclaimed Popoyo.

May

Low season is underway with sunshine still sticking around, but by the end of the month the skies open, marking the beginning of the wet season.

z Maypole

Bluefields’ fertility celebrations culminate in a boisterous carnival on the last Saturday of the month. During the closing Tulululu, the entire town takes a midnight romp through the streets, accompanied by a brass band.

June

Heavy rains drench the entire country. This brings significantly cooler temperatures, but turns some rural roads into pools of mud that are difficult to negotiate.

z San Juan de Bautista

The normally serene flower-growing town of Catarina is transformed by this wild festival in honor of San Juan Bautista, featuring dancing, ceremonial fights and music.

July

Rains continue throughout the country, though rain showers rarely last more than several hours. Most hiking trails are now muddy but many waterfalls are at their spectacular best.

0 Aniversario de la Revolución

Dress in red and black, and head to the plaza in Managua to celebrate the revolution alongside hard-drinking Sandinista supporters from across Nicaragua. The bohemian fringe event in nearby San Antonio means more music.

August

Rains generally ease a little in the Pacific with most days enjoying long stretches of sunshine. Meanwhile, the Caribbean experiences one of its wettest months.

z Fiesta del Cangrejo

Corn Island celebrates the end of slavery with a parade, concerts, plenty of beer, and free bowls of crab soup and ginger bread for all in attendance.

z Fiestas de Agosto

Halfway through August, Granada honors the Assumption of Mary. Expect religious processions – the most important one on August 15 – equestrian parades, food stands, fireworks and live music in the parks, and revelry by the lakefront.

September

The height of hurricane season in the Caribbean may disrupt travel plans, although when there are no storms the weather is generally bright and there are great deals on accommodations.

z Feria de Maíz

The farmers of Nueva Segovia descend on the northern town of Jalapa for a celebration of everything corn. There are corn clothes, corn altars and corn dances, not to mention chicha (fermented corn drink).

October

Rains return with a vengeance throughout the Pacific with frequent heavy downpours in the afternoons. Traveler numbers reach their lowest point, with accommodation prices being the most competitive.

0 Turtle-Watching

Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Flor is the backdrop for one of nature’s most amazing spectacles when olive ridley turtles arrive (sometimes up to 3000 in one night) to lay their eggs in the sand.

z Noche de Agüizotes

This spooky festival in Masaya brings to life characters from horror stories of the colonial period with locals in elaborate creepy costume dancing in the street. Keep an eye out for the headless priest.

November

Things get moving again following the easing of the rain. Travelers spread out around the country and the festival season warms up with a number of important events.

z Garifuna Week

Nicaragua’s Garifuna community celebrates their rich cultural heritage with drums, dancing and gastronomy in the remote community of Orinoco on the shores of Laguna de Perlas. The concert features Garifuna artists from throughout Central America.

December

The end of the rains in the Pacific region sees the high season begin in earnest and beaches becoming busy, particularly north and south of San Juan del Sur.

z La Purísima

Celebrated on the eve of the Immaculate Concepcíon, La Purísima (and La Griteria) sees hordes of children going door-to-door singing songs to the Virgin Mary and receiving candies. León gets into it with unrivaled vigor.

Itineraries

West Coast Highlights

1 WEEK

Pack several heavyweight highlights into a week, making the most of the country’s history, nature and culture.

From Managua, make a beeline for Granada, and spend a day exploring the rich historic offerings of its colonial architecture and vibrant dining scene. The following day, spend the morning shopping for excellent quality handicrafts in the Pueblos Blancos and Masaya, then make a beeline for the Laguna de Apoyo for an afternoon’s relaxation beside the crater lake. In the evening, head for the Volcán Masaya to watch lava bubble in its crater. The following morning, head to the San Jorge dock and take a boat to Isla de Ometepe. Spend two days exploring the island, trekking up one of its volcanoes, kayaking through mangroves, hiking to the waterfall and staying on a tranquil finca (farm).

Return to the mainland, and head for San Juan del Sur for a couple of days of sea, surf and partying. Explore the beaches north and south of town in search of the best place to hit the waves.

On the final day, return to Managua and devote your time to visiting historic landmarks, and finish off the day bar-hopping in Los Robles and Altamira.

Volcán Concepción, Isla de Ometepe | WEI SEAH / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

San Juan del Sur | MLENNY / GETTY IMAGES ©

Itineraries

Stunning Southwest

10 DAYS

If you have limited time in Nicaragua, a trip through the southwest is big on awesome and small on hours in the bus. The region is a condensed wonderland of barreling surf, volcanoes, crater lakes, colonial towns and artisan villages that includes many of Nicaragua’s must-see highlights.

Fly into Managua and take in the view across town from Sandino’s silhouette on the Loma de Tiscapa before heading south and descending into the lush crater at Laguna de Apoyo for the night. Spend the next day swimming in the rich sulfuric waters or spotting birds and howler monkeys in the forest, before enjoying the spectacular night sky.

The following morning, visit the artisan workshops of the nearby Pueblos Blancos, including the pottery cooperative at San Juan de Oriente. Then head 30 minutes down the road for some colonial splendor in charismatic Granada. Spend three nights taking in the wonderful streetscapes, visiting the museums and churches, and dining in the fine restaurants. While you’re here take a kayaking day trip through the islets just offshore, and hike among the cloud forest atop Volcán Mombacho.

Next head down the highway to San Jorge. From here take the ferry to the out-of-this world Isla de Ometepe with its twin volcanoes and endless outdoor activities. Spend a night among the howler monkeys at Reserva Charco Verde and another at the base of Volcán Maderas, from where you can hike to the emerald-green crater lake.

Proceed across the isthmus to the surfing capital of San Juan del Sur, where you’ll spend three days lazing on the splendid surrounding beaches or surfing some of the excellent breaks in the area. If you can drag yourself off the beach, take a day trip to the charming fishing village of El Ostional or, if you’re lucky, watch sea turtles arrive en masse at Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Flor. In the evenings, work your way though the happening beachfront bars and restaurants.

On your way back to Managua, stop at Masaya to shop for souvenirs and gifts in the excellent Mercado Artesanías (National Artisans Market) and visit the hammock workshops.

Itineraries

Cruising the Río San Juan

2 WEEKS

The southeast corner of Nicaragua is an unparalleled playground for nature lovers of all dispositions. It boasts both comfortable eco-retreats and more strenuous adventures among lush wetlands and towering rainforests filled with fascinating ruins, reptiles and birdlife.

From Managua fly or bus it to. Spend a morning checking out the old Spanish fort and waterfront before taking the afternoon boat to the enchanted archipelago of the Islas Solentiname. Spend a night on both Isla San Fernando and Isla Mancarrón, following jungle trails to in situ petroglyphs, swimming in the clear waters and visiting local artist workshops.

From Mancarrón, charter a boat to the Río Papaturro in the Refugio de Vida Silvestre Los Guatuzos, stopping to spot the amazing birdlife at some of the smaller islands on the way. Hike through the thick monkey-inhabited forest or kayak in the wetlands before heading out on an alligator safari in the evening.

Next take the public boat back to San Carlos. Pick up a riverboat down the Río San Juan to Boca de Sábalos, a small river town surrounded by steamy jungle. Among the many excursions on offer here is a tour to a local cacao plantation and chocolate factory. Or simply relax on your hotel balcony and spot aquatic birds on the banks of the majestic river.

After two nights in Sábalos, continue downstream to El Castillo, where an imposing Spanish fort looms over the rapids. Spend two days here riding horses through the rolling green hills and and enjoying the charms of this delightful little jungle-bound town.

If you have a day to spare, detour north on a day trip to Refugio Bartola biological station, with a network of trails through towering old-growth forest and kayaks to paddle up the narrow jungle-clad Río Bartola to crystal-clear swimming holes. Otherwise, continue the journey by picking up a riverboat heading downriver to San Juan de Nicaragua, where the Río San Juan pours into the Caribbean Sea. Give yourself three days to explore the ruins of Greytown, spot manatees in hidden lagoons and head up the Río Indio into the heart of the Reserva Biológica Indio-Maíz. From San Juan fly directly back to Managua or take a panga (motorboat) on to Bluefields and return from there.

Itineraries

Northern Loop

3 WEEKS

Rich in nature and revolutionary culture, northern Nicaragua is equally rugged and refined. In one trip you’ll go from sipping organic coffee at the source to surfing an active volcano. Charge your batteries: you’ll want to take plenty of pictures or no one will believe you when you get home.

Upon arrival skip through Managua and head for the crumbling colonial beauty of León to give Nicaragua the fantastic introduction it deserves. Spend three days exploring this endearing city on foot, visiting fascinating museums, spacious mansions and glorious churches. If you’re feeling energetic, hike one of the nearby volcanoes or surf the slopes of Cerro Negro.

From León head west to the beach at Las Peñitas and find a spot in a sand-floor beachside bar for the spectacular sunset. In the morning make an early start to travel north to Jiquilillo. Spend a couple of days soaking up the ambience in this pretty fishing village and paddling through the mangroves of the nearby Reserva Natural Estero Padre Ramos.

Then travel across the Maribios volcanic chain and into the mountains to Estelí, where you can visit cigar factories and check out revolutionary murals. After a couple of days head into the mountains in the Área Protegida Miraflor for two days of horseback riding, wildlife spotting and farm-culture immersion.

Move on to Somoto and to Monumento Nacional Cañon de Somoto to swim, jump and rappel your way through the canyon. Next morning travel to Matagalpa for a few caffeine-fueled days picking coffee beans and hiking on local plantations. Continue climbing higher into the mountains, stopping at the gorgeous Selva Negra coffee estate, before arriving in Jinotega, gateway to the cloud forests of Reserva Natural Cerro Datanlí–El Diablo. Spend a day in town to climb Cerro la Cruz and then spend a couple of days hiking in the reserve.

Give your muscles a break with a boat cruise on Lago de Apanás before continuing on to San Rafael del Norte. Here you can visit one of Nicaragua’s most magnificent churches or fly through the pine forest on a zipline.

Plan Your Trip

Nicaragua Outdoors

Pristine, largely unpopulated and with an increasing degree of environmental protection, Nicaragua is wide open for authentic wilderness adventure without the corporate sheen. Whether it’s sand-boarding down active volcanoes or a leisurely hike through orchid-scented cloud forests, in Nicaragua you are never far from a spectacular nature experience.

Best...

Wildlife-Watching

Reserva Biológica Indio-Maíz, Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Flor, Reserva de Biosfera Bosawás and Refugio de Vida Silvestre Los Guatuzos

Volcano Climbs

Volcán San Cristóbal, Volcán Maderas and Volcán Telica

Cloud-Forest Trek

Reserva Natural Macizos de Peñas Blancas

Surf Spots

Playas Popoyo, Gigante and Aserradores

Extreme Sports

Volcano boarding Cerro Negro, abseiling in Monumento Nacional Cañon de Somoto

Diving & Snorkeling

Great Corn Island, Little Corn Island and Pearl Keys

Fishing

Río San Juan, San Juan del Sur and Río Escondido

Diving & Snorkeling

It’s no wonder that people are interested in getting all wet in Nicaragua, with its 1040km of coastline, most of it untainted and underdeveloped.

You can dive Nicaragua’s Laguna de Apoyo, cruising past underwater fumaroles and saying hello to fish not found elsewhere in the world. But the best place in the country to dive – especially if you like cave dives – is the Corn Islands, where hammerhead sharks and 40 species of coral await.

The reefs surrounding the islands are also great for snorkeling, especially around Sally Peachie on the big island, and Otto Beach on the islita. For more outstanding snorkeling, head to the spectacular Pearl Keys, where you can swim among marine turtles and then rest on wonderful white-sand beaches.

Need to Know

Serious snorkeling enthusiasts will want to bring their own mask, snorkel and fins as rental jobs vary greatly in quality and are not widely available apart from on the Corn Islands.

The following dive shops are PADI certified and offer both courses and leisure dives: Dive Little Corn and Dolphin Dive. For the novel experience of diving into an extinct volcanic crater, hook up with Volcano Divers.

Hiking

Thanks to an unlikely environmental consciousness (the Nicaraguan government found time to protect dozens of wilderness areas during the turbulent 1980s) and the war, which probably did more to save the rainforests than Unesco did in most countries, there’s a lot of fairly pristine forest out there to see.

Some of the most interesting and easily accessible are at Área Protegida Miraflor, Reserva Natural Macizos de Peñas Blancas and Reserva Natural Cerro Datanlí–El Diablo.

The climbs with the real cachet, however, are any of the dozens of volcanoes, including the Maribios chain, Volcán Cosigüina and the volcanoes of Isla Ometepe. And if you’re into dominating nature, consider the full-day climb to the peak of Cerro Mogotón (2106m), Nicaragua’s highest mountain.

Need to Know

Guides are usually recommended (and sometimes compulsory) for hikes in all but the best developed natural parks and reserves, particularly for the volcanoes. Even on easy hikes, guides can almost always find things you never would. In smaller towns, ask about guides at the alcaldía (mayor’s office), usually right on the Parque Central (central park).

Base yourself in the hiking havens of Estelí, Matagalpa or Jinotega to explore the mountains of the north. For volcanoes, the best access is from León.

There are a number of companies offering organized hikes. We recommend Quetzaltrekkers, Tree Huggers and Matagalpa Tours.

HIKING GEAR CHECKLIST

Trekking for leisure is not particularly popular among Nicaraguans and quality gear is hard to find on the ground. If you plan on getting off the beaten track, make sure you bring the following:

Comfortable footwear Consider both leather hiking boots for long days in the mountains and comfortable, sturdy sports sandals for treks involving river crossings.

Water purification tablets

Lightweight sleeping bag Believe it or not it does actually get cold in mountainous regions of Nicaragua.

Hammock Indispensable for long boat rides or taking a break in the jungle high above the creepy crawlies of the forest floor.

Tent If you find one in Nicaragua, it’s likely to be bulky and barely waterproof, bring a lightweight hiking model from home.

Surfing

For beginners, the center of Nicaraguan surfing remains San Juan del Sur, with Las Peñitas being another popular hotspot. Expert wave-shredders tend to head to the surf camps spreading northwards around Popoyo, past flawless beach breaks, scary-fun lava point breaks and lots of barrels, when conditions are right. Playa Gigante has