Peru, Bolivia & Ecuador

By Robert Kunstaetter, Daisy Kunstaetter and Ben Box

Linked by the sinuous spine of the Andes, Peru, Bolivia & Ecuador are born of a synthesis of ancient America and medieval Europe. Footprint’s Peru, Bolivia & Ecuador Handbook will guide you from the unforgettably unique Galápagos Islands, through the awe-inspiring citadel of Machu Picchu, to the shimmering turquoise waters of Lake Titicaca.

• Great coverage of the top activities and sights in the region, including the colonial treasures of Quito; spectacular costumed festivals; sacred pyramids and temples; the incredible salt flats of Salar de Uyunia

• Loaded with information and suggestions on how to get off the beaten track, from where to find the best artesanía to seeking jaguars in the rainforest

• Includes comprehensive information on everything from transport and practicalities to history, culture & landscape

• Plus all the usual accommodation, eating and drinking listings for every budget

• Full-colour planning section to inspire travellers and help them find the best experiences

From the mysterious Nazca lines to bustling indigenous markets, Footprint’s fully updated 5th edition will help you navigate this breathtaking destination.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Bradt Travel Guides Ltd
• Release date: May 1, 2017
• ISBN: 9781911082521

Robert Kunstaetter

Born and raised in Ecuador (Quito and Riobamba), Daisy Isacovici's pet peeve is being mistaken for a gringa. Robert Kunstaetter hails from Montreal, where Daisy attended university. Soon after they met in 1979, he suggested travelling in South America for 'a year or so', and they have yet to turn back. Over the years and miles, Robert and Daisy became regular correspondents for Footprint, contributing to the South American Handbook and other Latin American titles. Based back in Ecuador since 1993, they are authors of Footprint's Ecuador & Galapagos Handbook. They also travel frequently to Peru and Bolivia. After all these years, Robert and Daisy still have difficulty distinguishing between work and play.

Book preview

Imagine Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador and you automatically think of the Andes, the long, sinuous mountain chain that runs the full length of all three countries and forms the geographical and cultural spine of South America. Here, at over 3500 m, the first Incas rose from the freezing waters of Lake Titicaca. They named their capital Cuzco, ‘Navel of the World’, and built an empire that lasted until the Spanish came, saw, conquered and converted the natives.

But old habits die hard and today indigenous customs and beliefs are very much in evidence: in the beautiful and skilful artesanía (handicrafts); the spectacular festival costumes; the sacred temples and pyramids; or in the burying of a llama foetus under a new house to repel evil spirits. Often these ancient traditions were subsumed into the ‘new’ religion of the colonial masters.

It is the synthesis of ancient America and medieval Europe that is the essence of these countries. Thousands of years of empire-building, natural disasters, conquest, occupation and independence have all been played out, against the backdrop of those mighty mountains, the one constant in a continent of constant change.

There is more to these three countries than the Andes, however. To the east of the mountains spreads the vast Amazon Basin and each country has a claim to the tributaries that feed into the mighty river itself. The surrounding forest is home to some of the greatest diversity of wildlife on Earth. The western margin of Peru and Ecuador stands on the Pacific Ocean. In Peru the coastal lands are largely desert. Like Peru, Ecuador’s coast offers good surf and terrific seafood, but also interesting national parks with good whale-watching. And way out in the ocean lie the Galápagos Islands, offering nature lovers the experience of a lifetime.

Best of

Peru, Bolivia & Ecuador

top things to do and see

Cordillera Blanca

Beautiful and awe-inspiring, the snow-capped Cordillera Blanca attracts mountaineers, hikers, cyclists and rafters in their thousands. Here stand some of the highest mountains in South America, with 30 snow-crested peaks over 6000 m. See here.

Colca Canyon

Come face to face with the magnificent Andean condor, the largest bird of prey in the world, in this canyon in Peru, one of the deepest in the world. It offers exceptional kayaking for those with a taste for profound adventure. See here.

Lake Titicaca

The border between Peru and Bolivia divides the world’s highest navigable lake, a superb destination for boat trips to islands rich in traditional culture. Ancient tombs and the pre-Hispanic city of Tiwanaku are within easy reach, and the celebrations of Puno and Copacabana are not to be missed. See here.

Machu Picchu

The Inca mountain-top city is Peru’s top attraction and deservedly so. It’s the goal of many a hiker as well as countless tourists who prefer to go by luxury train, but its predominance is rivalled by many other archaeological sites and treks throughout Peru. See here.

Manu and Tambopata Reserves

These protected areas in the steamy tropical forest of southern Peru are home to a huge diversity of wildlife. Rare birds and mammals, including jaguars, ocelots and giant otters, are fairly easy to spot due to a lack of hunting. See here and here.

Salar de Uyuni

Vast salt flats surrounded by stark volcanoes create some of South America’s most iconic landscapes. Add to that flamingos sifting the waters of multi-coloured lakes, surreal deserts and high-altitude hot springs and you have one of Bolivia’s most memorable attractions. See here.

Jesuit missions

UNESCO has recognized six surviving Jesuit mission churches in Bolivia as World Heritage Sites. Not only the beautiful architecture and elaborate decoration survive, but also the baroque music that was written and played here. See here.

Rurrenabaque

This is the starting point for tours upriver to community-based lodges in the jungles of the Parque Nacional Madidi, or downriver to gallery forests and wetlands of the pampas in Bolivia. Expect to see plenty of wildlife on boat trips and hikes. See here.

Quito

The capital’s treasure trove of religious art and architecture is the heart of a vibrant city, offering many urban delights. It also provides access to outstanding areas nearby, such as Mindo and the cloudforests of Pichincha volcano, a nature lover’s paradise. See here.

Otavalo

Best known for the largest craft market in South America, this Ecuadorean town is also home to a proud and prosperous indigenous people. They have made their name not only as successful weavers and traders, but also as symbols of cultural fortitude. See here.

Puerto López

A popular base for whale watching from June to September, this seaside town in Ecuador provides year-round access to the gorgeous Los Frailes beach and Parque Nacional Machalilla, which protects tropical forests, a marine ecosystem and Isla de la Plata. See here.

Galápagos Islands

Almost 1000 km from mainland Ecuador, the Galápagos Islands were the inspiration for Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution and offer marine and terrestrial environments like nowhere else on Earth. A visit to this foremost wildlife sanctuary is an unforgettable experience. See here.

Arequipa, Peru

Route

planner

putting it all together

The variety that Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador can offer the visitor is enormous. The obvious attractions in Peru are Machu Picchu, the Nazca Lines and the jungle reserves of Manu and Tambopata; while in Ecuador the colonial heritage of Quito and Cuenca, the Galápagos Islands and the Oriente jungle are the major draws. Bolivia’s attractions include the Salar de Uyuni, Madidi National Park and the Jesuit missions of Chiquitania. But if you’re on a tight schedule, how do you fit it all in? Seeing much of these countries by bus in the space of a few weeks is a forlorn hope. So you’ll either need to concentrate on a small area or consider taking internal flights.

Two weeks

sacred Inca sites, colonial cities and the Galápagos Islands

The best option for a two-week visit is to limit yourself to one or two countries. As Peru is located in the middle, it is logical to combine it with a visit to either Bolivia or Ecuador. In Peru there are certain places that fit neatly into seven days of travelling. Southern Peru offers a short rewarding circuit covering the most popular sites in this region. You need at least four days, more if you plan to hike the Inca Trail, to see Cuzco and Machu Picchu, the crown jewels of the Inca Empire. Beautiful Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world, the elegant colonial city of Arequipa, nearby Colca Canyon, and the incredible Nazca Lines could all be combined with Cuzco for a 10-day tour.

You could then head from Lake Titicaca across the border to Copacabana and La Paz. Several interesting trips can be made from La Paz, including the ruins of the great pre-Inca city of Tiwanaku. From La Paz you can also mountain bike down the so-called ‘world’s most dangerous road’ to the little town of Coroico, a popular resort in the subtropical valleys of the Yungas.

Teleférico, La Paz

An alternative to Bolivia would be to fly from Lima to the beautiful colonial city of Quito, in Ecuador. One of Ecuador’s great attractions is its relative compactness and much of what you want to see is only a few hours by road from the capital. Just two hours north is Otavalo, home to one of the finest craft markets in all of Latin America, and a further few hours south are the spectacular Cotopaxi National Park, the lovely Quilotoa circuit and Baños, a popular spa town at the foot of an active volcano.

If you don’t arrange a trip to the Amazon jungle from Cuzco (see below), it’s easy to do so from Quito, to one of Ecuador’s many excellent jungle lodges. You can also travel under your own steam to one of the main jungle towns and arrange a tour from there with a local agency. Tours can be organized from Puyo, Tena, Misahuallí, Coca, Macas and Baños, which is on the road from the highlands to the Oriente.

And then there are the unique Galápagos Islands, Ecuador’s famed wildlife showcase. It’s expensive to visit but well worth it. Galápagos tours range from four days up to 14 days, but seven days would be optimal, if you can afford it, to appreciate fully this once-in-a-lifetime experience.

One month

jungle wildlife reserves, Andean peaks and altiplano lakes

A month allows you the luxury of several further options for exploring more of Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador. With this amount of time you can visit Manu National Park or the Tambopata National Reserve in Peru’s southeastern jungle, with wonderful opportunities for watchers of birds, butterflies and animals, and for plant lovers. Trips to the southeastern jungle can be booked in Cuzco, which is a jumping-off point for flights or the 11-hour overland journey.

Another option in Peru is to head for Huaraz, in the Cordillera Blanca, seven hours by paved road from Lima and one of the world’s top climbing and trekking destinations.

Laguna Colorada, Bolivia

A week spent exploring the Cordillera and neighbouring areas can easily be linked with the coastal archaeological sites near the colonial city of Trujillo and, further north, around Chiclayo. From Chiclayo you could venture to the more remote Chachapoyas region, which contains a bewildering number of pre-Hispanic archaeological sites (spend at least a week if possible).

Cuenca, Ecuador

Tambopata National Reserve, Peru

There are several border crossings from northern Peru to the south of Ecuador. The easiest is from Piura to Loja, and an alternative adventurous route runs from Chachapoyas to Vilcabamba, on the fringes of Podocarpus National Park. Five hours north of Vilcabamba and Loja is Cuenca, a lovely colonial city and a great place to buy handicrafts. There are good road links north from Cuenca to Riobamba, with access to Chimborazo (Ecuador’s highest summit) and the spectacular Devil’s Nose train ride. Good roads from Riobamba continue north to Quito, and northeast to Baños and the Oriente jungle.

Alternatively, you could spend more time in Bolivia. If you’re visiting during the dry season – April to October – take a trip north to Rurrenabaque, from where you can take a jungle or pampas tour and experience the amazing diversity of wildlife in Pilón Lajas Biosphere Reserve and Madidi National Park.

The altiplano landscape of southwest Bolivia is dramatically different but equally remarkable. Here is Oruro, home to world-famous Carnival celebrations. A train and bus service connects Oruro with Uyuni and Tupiza, starting points for tours of the Salar de Uyuni, a vast, blindingly white salt lake. South of the Salar is Reserva Eduardo Avaroa, with deserts, volcanoes, geysers and multi-coloured lakes, all higher than 4000 m above sea level.

The eastern lowlands of Santa Cruz form yet another markedly different region. Here the collection of Jesuit missions in Chiquitania is one of Bolivia’s most fascinating colonial legacies.

Best festivals

Q’Olloriti, Peru

The ‘Snow Star’ festival, a massive pilgrimage to a sanctuary at 4700 m, beneath the glaciers of Nevado Sinakara (south of Cuzco), takes place during the full moon before the June solstice. It is tough going, freezing cold and not for the faint-hearted. Nevertheless, tens of thousands of people trek up to the sacred ice to simultaneously honour an image of Christ and the apus (mountain gods) with music, dance and the sacrifice of their arduous journey. See here.

Semana Santa, Ayacucho, Peru

Many places in Peru make ‘paintings’ on the streets out of flower petals and coloured sawdust, to be trodden by the feet of participants in multitudinous religious parades. The most famous are the ones in Ayacucho, in the Peruvian Central Highlands, during the city’s huge and impressive Semana Santa (Holy Week). The celebrations begin on the Friday before Palm Sunday and there are daily parades and nightly candlelit processions leading up to the solemn events of Good Friday. See here.

Alasitas, La Paz, Bolivia

This enchanting Feast of Plenty takes place every January in honour of Ekeko, During Alasitas, everything under the sun can be bought in miniature: houses, trucks, tools, bolivianos, dollars, euros, computers and university diplomas – you name it. Have your purchase blessed by a yatiri (an Aymara priest) and the real thing will be yours within the year. See here.

Ekeko at Alasitas, La Paz

Carnival in Oruro, Bolivia

Some 50 groups participate during the four days preceding Ash Wednesday, each with up to 700 dancers. Of the 18 different types of dances, the most famous is La Diablada – dance of the devils – in which dancers wear grotesquely elaborate costumes and masks, some spewing fire. Participants dance as an act of devotion to the Virgen del Socavón, patroness of the miners. At the church, which marks the end of the gruelling 4-km parade, the most devout dancers approach the altar on their knees. See here.

Carnival, Oruro

Mama Negra, Latacunga

Año Viejo, throughout Ecuador

On 31 December life-size puppets depicting events of the year gone by. Children dressed in black are the old year’s widows and beg for alms in the form of candy or coins. Just before midnight the Año Viejo’s will is read and at the stroke of midnight the effigies are burned, wiping out the old year and all that it had brought with it. See here.

Mama Negra, Latacunga, Ecuador

Held on 23-25 September, and again around 11 November, this tumultuous parade features a man dressed as a black woman – the Mama Negra. He/she rides a horse, carries a doll and changes kerchiefs at every corner. Dancers pay homage to the Virgen de las Mercedes and commemorate the freedom achieved by black slaves who escaped the plantations and moved to this area during colonial times. See here.

When

to go

… and when not to

Peru’s high season in the highlands is from May to September, the best time for hiking and climbing. At this time the days are generally clear and sunny, though nights can be very cold at high altitude. During the wettest months in the highlands, November to April, some roads become impassable. April and May, at the tail end of the highland rainy season, is a beautiful time to see the Peruvian Andes. On the coast, high seasons are September and Christmas to February. The summer months from December to April are hot and dry, but from approximately May to October much of this area is covered with la garúa, a blanket of cloud and mist.

The best time to visit the jungle in Peru and Bolivia is during the dry season, from April to October. During the wet season, November to April, it is oppressively hot (40°C and above) and while it only rains for a few hours at a time, it is enough to make some roads impassable. These are also the months when mosquitoes and other biting insects are at their worst, so this is not a good time to visit the jungle. As for the rest of Bolivia, the altiplano does not receive much rain, so timing is not so crucial here, although hiking trails can get very muddy in the wet season. During the winter months of June and July, nights tend to be clearer but even colder than at other times. These are good months to visit the Salar de Uyuni, as the salt lake is very impressive under clear blue skies (but the mirror effect when it is flooded is also unforgettable).

Ecuador’s climate is so varied and variable that any time of the year is good for a visit. Its high season is from June to early September, the best time for climbing and trekking. In the highlands, temperatures vary more with altitude than they do with the seasons. To the west of the Andes, June to September is dry and October to May is wet (but there is sometimes a short dry spell in December or January). To the east, October to February is dry and March to September is wet. The southern highlands are drier. In the Oriente, as in the rest of the Amazon Basin, heavy rain can fall at any time, but it is usually wettest from March to September. The Galápagos are hot from January to April, when heavy but brief showers are likely. May to December is the cooler misty season.

See the weather charts in individual cities for more detailed information on regional climates.

Festivals

Fiestas are a fundamental part of life for most South Americans, taking place throughout the continent with such frequency that it would be hard to miss one, even during the briefest of stays. This is fortunate, because arriving in any town or village during these inevitably frenetic celebrations is one of the great travelling experiences. Bolivia is especially well endowed with festivals year round, some lasting a week or more. See also Best festivals, here.

During the main festivals and public holidays most businesses such as banks and tour agencies close while supermarkets and street markets may be open. This depends a lot on where you are so enquire locally. Sometimes holidays that fall during midweek will be moved to the following Friday or Monday to make a long weekend, or some places will take a día de puente (bridging day) taking the Friday or Monday as a holiday before or after an official holiday on a Thursday or Tuesday. Cities may be very quiet on national holidays, but celebrations will be going on in the villages. Hotels are often full so it’s worth booking in advance.

Invariably, fiestas involve drinking – lots of it. There’s also non-stop dancing, which can sometimes verge on an organized brawl, and throwing of water (or worse). Not all festivals end up as massive unruly parties, however. Some are solemn and elaborate holy processions, often incorporating Spanish colonial themes into predominantly ancient pagan rituals. Below is a brief list of the most important festivals in each country. See also Festivals and public holidays, here.

Peru

Two of the major festival dates are Carnaval, which is celebrated in most of the Andes over the weekend before Ash Wednesday, and Semana Santa (Holy Week), which ends on Easter Sunday.

On 1 May Fiesta de la Cruz is another important festival in much of the central and southern highlands and on the coast. In Cuzco, the entire month of June is one huge fiesta, culminating in Inti Raymi, on 24 June, one of Peru’s prime tourist attractions.

Bolivia

Carnaval, especially famous in Oruro, is celebrated throughout the country in February or March. There are parades with floats and folkloric dances, parties, much drinking and water throwing even in the coldest weather and nobody is spared. Many related festivities take place around the time of Carnaval. Two weeks beforehand is Jueves de Compadres followed by Jueves de Comadres. In the altiplano Shrove Tuesday is celebrated as Martes de Challa, when house owners make offerings to Pachamama and give drinks to passers-by. Carnaval Campesino usually begins in small towns on Ash Wednesday, when regular Carnaval ends, and lasts for five days, until Domingo de Tentación. Palm Sunday (Domingo de Ramos) sees parades to the church throughout Bolivia; the devout carry woven palm fronds, then hang them outside their houses. Semana Santa in the eastern Chiquitania is very interesting, with ancient processions, dances, and games not found outside the region.

ON THE ROAD

Day of the Dead (All Souls’ Day)

Among the most important dates in the calendar in Latin America are 1 November, Todos Santos, and 2 November, the Día de los Difuntos or Finados (Day of the Dead).

Practices vary from place to place but the day is observed throughout Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador. In the Inca calendar, November was the eighth month and meant ayamarca, or land of the dead. The celebration is an example of the religious syncretism or adaptation in which pre-Hispanic practices blend with the rites of the Catholic Church.

According to ancient belief, the spirit visits its relatives at this time of the year and is fed in order to continue its journey in the afterlife. Relatives prepare for the arrival of the spirit days in advance. Bread dolls, called guaguas de pan in Ecuador and t’anta wawas in Bolivia, and bread figures of llamas or horses to provide transport for the dead are baked or bought. Colada morada, a sweet drink made from various fruits and purple corn is prepared in Ecuador.

Inside the home, families may construct an altar over which a black cloth is laid. This is adorned with the bread figures and the dead relative’s favourite food and drink. Once the spirit has arrived and feasted with its living relatives, the entire ceremony is transported to the graveside in the local cemetery, where it is carried out again, along with many other mourning families.

Such elaborate celebrations are less common than in the past, and today most people commemorate Día de los Difuntos in more prosaic fashion; by visiting the cemetery and placing flowers at the graveside of their deceased relatives.

Ecuador

On 31 December life-size puppets depicting the events of the previous year, the años viejos, are burnt after the reading of the old year’s will. Carnaval, on Monday and Tuesday before Lent, is celebrated everywhere in the country (except Ambato) by throwing water at passers-by: be prepared to participate.

ON THE ROAD

Improve your travel photography

Taking pictures is a highlight for many travellers, yet too often the results turn out to be disappointing. Steve Davey, author of Footprint's Travel Photography, sets out his top rules for coming home with pictures you can be proud of.

Before you go

Don't waste precious travelling time and do your research before you leave. Find out what festivals or events might be happening or which day the weekly market takes place, and search online image sites such as Flickr to see whether places are best shot at the beginning or end of the day, and what vantage points you should consider.

Get up early

The quality of the light will be better in the few hours after sunrise and again before sunset – especially in the tropics when the sun will be harsh and unforgiving in the middle of the day. Sometimes seeing the sunrise is a part of the whole travel experience: sleep in and you will miss more than just photographs.

Stop and think

Don't just click away without any thought. Pause for a few seconds before raising the camera and ask yourself what you are trying to show with your photograph. Think about what things you need to include in the frame to convey this meaning. Be prepared to move around your subject to get the best angle. Knowing the point of your picture is the first step to making sure that the person looking at the picture will know it too.

Compose your picture

Avoid simply dumping your subject in the centre of the frame every time you take a picture. If you compose with it to one side, then your picture can look more balanced. This will also allow you to show a significant background and make the picture more meaningful. A good rule of thumb is to place your subject or any significant detail a third of the way into the frame; facing into the frame not out of it.

This rule also works for landscapes. Compose with the horizon two-thirds of the way up the frame if the foreground is the most interesting part of the picture; one-third of the way up if the sky is more striking.

Don't get hung up with this so-called Rule of Thirds, though. Exaggerate it by pushing your subject out to the edge of the frame if it makes a more interesting picture; or if the sky is dull in a landscape, try cropping with the horizon near the very top of the frame.

Fill the frame

If you are going to focus on a detail or even a person's face in a close-up portrait, then be bold and make sure that you fill the frame. This is often a case of physically getting in close. You can use a telephoto setting on a zoom lens but this can lead to pictures looking quite flat; moving in close is a lot more fun!

Interact with people

If you want to shoot evocative portraits then it is vital to approach people and seek permission in some way, even if it is just by smiling at someone. Spend a little time with them and they are likely to relax and look less stiff and formal. Action portraits where people are doing something, or environmental portraits, where they are set against a significant background, are a good way to achieve relaxed portraits. Interacting is a good way to find out more about people and their lives, creating memories as well as photographs.

Focus carefully

Your camera can focus quicker than you, but it doesn't know which part of the picture you want to be in focus. If your camera is using the centre focus sensor then move the camera so it is over the subject and half press the button, then, holding it down, recompose the picture. This will lock the focus. Take the now correctly focused picture when you are ready.

Another technique for accurate focusing is to move the active sensor over your subject. Some cameras with touch-sensitive screens allow you to do this by simply clicking on the subject.

Leave light in the sky

Most good night photography is actually taken at dusk when there is some light and colour left in the sky; any lit portions of the picture will balance with the sky and any ambient lighting. There is only a very small window when this will happen, so get into position early, be prepared and keep shooting and reviewing the results. You can take pictures after this time, but avoid shots of tall towers in an inky black sky; crop in close on lit areas to fill the frame.

Bring it home safely

Digital images are inherently ephemeral: they can be deleted or corrupted in a heartbeat. The good news though is they can be copied just as easily. Wherever you travel, you should have a backup strategy. Cloud backups are popular, but make sure that you will have access to fast enough Wi-Fi. If you use RAW format, then you will need some sort of physical back-up. If you don't travel with a laptop or tablet, then you can buy a backup drive that will copy directly from memory cards.

Recently updated and available in both digital and print formats, Footprint's Travel Photography by Steve Davey covers everything you need to know about travelling with a camera, including simple post-processing. More information is available at www.footprinttravelguides.com

What

to do

from birdwatching to whitewater rafting

Bird and wildlife watching

Peru Nearly 19% of all the bird species in the world and 45% of all neotropical birds are found in Peru. A birding trip is possible during any month as birds breed all year round. The peak in breeding activity occurs just before the rains come in October. The key sites, out of many, are the Manu Biosphere Reserve, Tambopata National Reserve, Abra Málaga, Iquitos, Paracas, Lomas de Lachay, the Colca Canyon, the Huascarán Biosphere Reserve and northern Peru, with its Tumbesian dry forest and Pacific slopes of the Andes. Before arranging your trip, see www.perubirdingroutes.com (in Spanish and English).

Bolivia The country has more than 40 well-defined ecological regions and the transition zones between them. On a trip to the Salar de Uyuni you will see Andean birdlife but also landscapes of unmatched, stark beauty. For lowland birds and animals, the main options are Rurrenabaque in the lowlands of the river Beni and the Parque Nacional Amboró, three hours west of Santa Cruz, containing ecosystems of the Amazon Basin, Andean foothills and the savannahs of the Chaco plain. For table-top mountains, forests, cerrado, wetlands and a stunning array of wildlife, make the effort to get to Parque Nacional Noel Kempff Mercado.

Ecuador The Galápagos Islands are the top destination for reliably seeing wildlife close up, but a number of the species from the Galápagos may also be seen in the Parque Nacional Machalilla and on other parts of the coast. An added bonus on the mainland coast is the opportunity to watch whales from June to September. A huge number of bird species in a great variety of habitats and microclimates may easily be seen. There are five general regions: western lowlands and lower foothills; western Andes; inter-Andean forests and páramos; eastern Andes; and Oriente jungle. The Jocotoco Foundation, www.fjocotoco.org, specializes in buying up critical bird habitat in Ecuador.

Climbing

In Peru, the Cordillera Blanca, with Huaraz as a base, is an ice-climber’s paradise. Over 50 summits are between 5000 and 6000 m and over 20 exceed 6000 m. There is a wide range of difficulty and no peak fees are charged (although national park entrance has to be paid in the Cordillera Blanca). The Cordillera Huayhuash, southeast of Huaraz, is a bit more remote, with fewer facilities, but has some of the most spectacular ice walls in Peru. In the south of the country, the Cordilleras Vilcabamba and Vilcanota are the main destinations, but Cuzco is not developed for climbing. Climbing equipment can be hired in Huaraz but the quality can be poor.

Some of the world’s best mountaineering can be found in Bolivia. With a dozen peaks at or above 6000 m and almost a thousand over 5000 m, most levels of skill can find something to tempt them. The season is May to September, with usually stable conditions June to August. The Cordillera Real has 600 mountains over 5000 m, including six at 6000 m or above (Huayna Potosí is the most popular). Quimza Cruz, southeast of La Paz, is hard to get to but offers some excellent possibilities. The volcanic Cordillera Occidental contains Bolivia’s highest peak, Sajama (6542 m). The Apolobamba range, northwest of La Paz, has many peaks over 5000 m.

Ecuador offers some exceptional high-altitude climbing, with 10 mountains over 5000 m, most with easy access. The four most frequently climbed are Cotopaxi, Chimborazo and Iliniza Norte. The other six – Iliniza Sur, Antisana, El Altar, Sangay, Carihuairazo and Cayambe – vary in degree of difficulty and/or danger. Sangay is technically easy, but extremely dangerous from the falling rocks being ejected from the volcano. Many other mountains can be climbed, and climbing clubs, guiding agencies and tour operators will give advice. There are two seasons: June to August for the western cordillera and December to February for the eastern cordillera. It is important to check on current volcanic activity and ice conditions.

Diving and snorkelling

The Galápagos Islands off the coast of Ecuador are well known for their distinctive marine environments and offer more than 20 dive sites. Each island contains a unique environment and many are home to underwater life forms found nowhere else. There are excellent specialized dive-tour boats and operators but you are not allowed to dive on an ordinary Galápagos cruise. Also note that conditions in the Galápagos are difficult and for experienced divers only. Snorkelling is highly recommended, however, and you will come face to face with all manner of marine creatures. A good option for novice divers is the Isla de la Plata in Machalilla National Park, on the coast of Ecuador.

Horse riding

In Ecuador horse riding is available in many popular resort areas including Otavalo, Baños and Vilcabamba. Throughout the country, haciendas also usually offer horse riding.

Mountain biking

This is a relatively new sport in Peru, but dedicated cyclists are beginning to open up routes which offer some magnificent possibilities. Peru has many kilometres of trails, dirt roads and single track, but very few maps to show you where to go. There is equipment for hire and tours in the Huaraz and Cuzco areas or join an organized group to get the best equipment and guiding.

In Bolivia, hard-core, experienced, fit and acclimatized riders can choose from a huge range of possibilities. Either take a gamble and figure it out from a map, or find a guide and tackle the real adventure rides. Some popular rides in the La Paz region, achievable by all levels of riders, are La Cumbre to Coroico, down the so-called world’s most dangerous road; the Zongo Valley descent into the Yungas; Chacaltaya to La Paz, down from the (ex-) world’s highest ski slope; and Hasta Sorata, to the trekking paradise of Sorata. If you plan on bringing your own bike and doing some hard riding, be prepared for difficult conditions, an almost complete absence of spare parts and very few good bike mechanics. There are now a number of operators offering guided mountain biking tours, but only a few rent good quality, safe machines. Choose a reputable company, guides who speak your language and only opt for the best US-made bikes.

Ecuador is growing in popularity as there are boundless opportunities in the Sierra, on coastal roads and in the upper Amazon Basin. Agencies which offer tours, rent equipment and help plan routes are in Quito (see here) and in other cities.

Parapenting/hang-gliding

Vuelo libre (parapenting) is popular. Flying from the coastal cliffs is easy and the thermals are good. In Peru, the best area is the Sacred Valley of Cuzco which has excellent launch sites, thermals and reasonable landing sites. Some flights in Peru have exceeded 6500 m. In Ecuador it can be done from several highland locations as well as Crucita on the coast. The season in the Sierra is May-October, with the best months being August-September.

Sandboarding and screeboarding

If you’ve always fancied tearing down a massive sand dune on a wooden board, then the southern coastal desert in Peru is the place for you. Just as much fun as snowboarding but without the cold or required technical expertise, sandboarding is a growing sport amongst warm-weather thrill-seekers. In Bolivia, screeboarding is offered in the recently deglaciated slopes of the Cordillera Real.

Surfing

Peru is a top international surfing destination. Its main draws are the variety of waves and the year-round action. The main seasons are September to February in the north and March to December in the south, though May is often ideal south of Lima. The biggest wave is at Pico Alto (sometimes 6 m in May), south of Lima, and the largest break is 800 m at Chicama, near Trujillo.

In Ecuador there are a few, select surfing spots, such as Mompiche, San Mateo, Montañita and Playas, near Guayaquil. Surf is best December to March, except at Playas where the season is June to September. In the Galápagos there is good surfing at Playa Punta Carola, outside Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristóbal.

Trekking

In Peru there are some fabulous circuits around the peaks of the Cordillera Blanca (eg Llanganuco to Santa Cruz, and the treks out of Caraz) and Cordillera Huayhuash. The Ausangate trek near Cuzco is also good. A second type of trek is walking among, or to, ruins. The prime example is the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, but others include those to Vilcabamba (the Incas’ last home) and Choquequirao, and the treks in the Chachapoyas region. The Colca and Cotahuasi canyons also offer superb trekking. Also see www.trekkingperu.org.

There are many opportunities for trekking in Bolivia, from gentle one-day hikes in foothills and valleys to challenging walks of several days from highlands to lowlands on Inca or gold-digger trails. The best known are: the Choro, Takesi and Yunga Cruz hikes, all of whose starting points can be reached from La Paz; the Illampu Circuit from Sorata; and the Apolobamba treks in the northwest. Various treks are outlined in the text, especially near La Paz and from Sorata.

In Ecuador, the varied landscape, diverse environments and friendly villages make travelling on foot a refreshing change from crowded buses. Hiking in the Sierra is mostly across high elevation páramo, through agricultural lands and past indigenous communities. There are outstanding views of glaciated peaks in the north and pre-Columbian ruins in the south. In the tropical rainforests of the Oriente, local guides are often required because of the difficulty in navigation and because you will be walking on land owned by local indigenous tribes. The Andean slopes are steep and often covered by virtually impenetrable cloud forests and it rains a lot. Many ancient trading routes head down the river valleys. Some of these trails are still used. Others may be overgrown and difficult to follow but offer the reward of intact ecosystems.

Volunteering

In Peru, the Amauta Spanish School, www.amautaspanish.com, offers volunteering opportunities. In Huanchaco, near Trujillo, Otra Cosa Network, www.otracosa.org, arranges a wide range of volunteer placements in the north of the country. Projects which aim to get children away from the street and into education include Seeds of Hope, Huaraz, www.seedsofhope.pe, and Luz de Esperanza, Huancayo, www.peruluzdeesperanza.com.

In Bolivia, see www.manoamanobolivia.org, based in Cochabamba. Volunteering opportunities are available in Sucre as well.

In Ecuador, ‘voluntourism’ attracts many visitors. Several language schools operate volunteering schemes in conjunction with Spanish classes. Fundación Jatun Sacha, www.jatunsacha.org, has many different sites at which volunteers can work, all in exceptional natural areas.

Whitewater rafting

Peru has some of the finest whitewater rivers in the world. Availability is almost year-round and all levels of difficulty can be enjoyed. Cuzco is probably the rafting capital and the Río Urubamba has some very popular trips. Further afield is the Río Apurímac, which has some of the best whitewater rafting, including a trip at the source of the Amazon. In the southeastern jungle, a trip on the Río Tambopata to the Tambopata Reserve involves four days of whitewater followed by two days of drifting through virgin forest, an excellent adventure which must be booked up in advance. Around Arequipa is some first-class, technical rafting in the Cotahuasi and Colca canyons and some less-demanding trips on the Río Majes. Other destinations are the Río Santa near Huaraz and the Río Cañete, south of Lima.

Ecuador is a whitewater paradise with dozens of accessible rivers, warm waters and tropical rainforest; regional rainy seasons differ so that throughout the year there is always a river to run. The majority of Ecuador’s whitewater rivers share a number of characteristics. Plunging off the Andes, the upper sections are very steep creeks offering, if they’re runnable at all, serious technical grade V, suitable for experts only. As the creeks join on the lower slopes they form rivers that are less steep, with more volume. Some of these rivers offer up to 100 km of continuous grade lll-lV whitewater, before flattening out to rush towards the Pacific Ocean on one side of the ranges or deep into the Amazon Basin on the other. Of the rivers descending to the Pacific coast, the Blanco and its tributaries are the most frequently run. They are within easy reach of Quito, as is the Quijos on the eastern side of the Sierra. In the Oriente, the main rivers are the Aguarico and its tributary the Dué, the Napo, Pastaza and Upano.

Shopping tips

Artesanía (handicrafts) enjoy regional distinctiveness, especially in items such as textiles. Each region, or even village, has its own characteristic pattern or style of cloth, so the choice is enormous. Throughout the Andes, weaving has spiritual significance as well as a practical side. Reproductions of pre-Columbian designs can be found in pottery and jewellery and many people throughout the continent make delightful items in gold and silver. Musical instruments from Bolivia, Panama hats from Ecuador and all manner of ceramics are just some of the things you can bring home with you. Craft shops abound in Lima, Cuzco, La Paz, Quito and Cuenca, but many items are sold more economically where they are made, outside the big cities. Bargaining is expected when you are shopping for handicrafts and souvenirs, but remember that most items are made by hand, and people are trying to make a living, not playing a game. You want a fair price, not the lowest one.

Where

to stay

from budget backpacker hostels to high-class haciendas

There is no uniform terminology for categories of accommodation in South America, but you should be aware of the generally accepted meanings for the following. Hotel is the generic term, much as it is in English. Hospedaje means accommodation, of any kind. Pensión, alojamiento, casa de huéspedes and residencial usually refer to more modest and economical establishments. A posada (inn) or hostal may be an elegant expensive place, while hosterías or haciendas usually offer upmarket rural lodgings.

The cheapest and nastiest hotels are found near bus and train stations and markets. In small towns, better accommodation can often be found around the main plaza. Be sure that taxi drivers take you to the hotel you want rather than the one that pays the highest commission. Always take a look at the room before checking in. Hotel owners will often attempt to rent out the worst rooms first; feel free to ask for a better room or bargain politely for a reduced rate if you are not happy. In cities, rooms away from the main street will be less noisy. Some hotels charge per room and not per person, so if you’re travelling alone, it may be cheaper to share.

Air conditioning (a/c) is only really needed in the lowlands and jungle. If you want an air-conditioned room it will add about a third to the price. Upmarket hotels will usually have their own restaurant, while more modest places may only serve a simple breakfast. The electric showers in cheaper places should be treated with respect. Always wear rubber sandals to avoid an unwelcome morning shock.

Camping in all three countries is best suited to protected natural areas, to the grounds of hostels (for a fee), or next to private homes (with permission of the owner). It is not safe to camp on beaches, by towns and villages, or anywhere near cities. When in doubt, ask before you pitch your tent. Organized campsites and trailer parks are rare or non-existent.

Tip…

Take a torch or candles if travelling to more remote areas and jungle lodges where electricity may only be supplied during certain hours.

Peru

Accommodation is plentiful throughout the price ranges and finding a hotel room to suit your budget should not present any problems, especially in the main tourist areas and larger towns and cities, except during the Christmas and Easter holidays, Carnival and at the end of July. Cuzco in June is also very busy.

All deluxe and first-class hotels charge 18% in state sales tax (IGV) and 10% service charges. Foreigners should not have to pay the sales tax on hotel rooms; check whether it has been included.

Student discounts are rare but for information on youth hostels see Hostelling International Perú www.hostellingperu.com.pe.

Tip…

It’s worth booking accommodation in advance during school holidays and local festivals, see here and here.

Bolivia

In Bolivia, a pensión is a simple restaurant and may double as a place to sleep in smaller towns. Youth hostels or self-styled ‘backpackers’ are not necessarily cheaper than hotels. A number of mid-range residenciales are affiliated to Hostelling International (HIwww.hostellingbolivia.org; some others just say they are. Another website listing hostels is www.boliviahostels.com, but they are not necessarily affiliated to HI.

Ecuador

Outside the provincial capitals and resorts, there are few higher-class hotels, although a number of very upmarket haciendas have opened their doors to paying guests. Some are in the Exclusive Hotels & Haciendas of Ecuador group www.ehhec.com, but there are many other independent haciendas of good quality. Some are mentioned in the text.

Service of 10% and tax of 14% are added to bills at more upmarket hotels. Some cheaper hotels apply the 14% tax only, but check if it is included.

Price codes

Where to stay

$$$$ over US$150

$$$ US$66-150

$$ US$30-65

$ under US$30

Price of a double room in high season, including taxes unless otherwise indicated.

Restaurants

$$$ over US$12

$$ US$7-12

$ US$6 and under

Prices for a two-course meal for one person, excluding drinks or service charge.

Food

& drink

marinated ceviche, roast cuy and corn humitas

Peru

Peru is the self-styled gastronomic capital of South America and some of the cuisine is very innovative. Along the coast the best dishes are seafood based with the most popular being ceviche: raw white fish marinated in lemon juice. The staples of corn and potatoes are prevalent in highland cooking and can be found in a large and varied range of dishes. There is also an array of meat dishes with lomo saltado (stir-fried beef). Tropical cuisine revolves around fish and the common yucca and fried bananas.

Lunch is considered the main meal throughout Peru and most restaurants will serve one or two set lunches called the menú ejecutivo (US$2.50-4 for a three-course meal) or menú económico (US$2-3). A la carte meals normally cost US$5-8 but in top-class restaurants it can be up to US$80. Middle- and high-class restaurants may add 10% service, but not include the 18% sales tax in the bill (which foreigners do have to pay); this is not shown on the price list or menu, check in advance. Lower-class restaurants charge only tax, while cheap, local restaurants charge no taxes.

There are many chifas (Chinese restaurants) all over the country which offer good reasonably priced food.

Lager-type beers are the best, especially the Cusqueña and Arequipeña brands (lager) and Trujillo Malta (porter). In Lima only Cristal and Pilsener (not related to true Pilsen) are readily available, others have to be sought out. Look out for the sweetish maltina brown ale, which makes a change from the ubiquitous pilsner-type beers. The best wines are from Ica, Tacama and Ocucaje. Gran Tinto Reserva Especial and Viña Santo Tomas are reasonable and cheap. The most famous local drink is pisco which is a strong, clear brandy and forms the basis of the deliciously renowned pisco sour.

Bolivia

Bolivian cooking is usually tasty and picante (spicy). Recommended dishes include sajta de pollo, hot spicy chicken. Near Lake Titicaca fish becomes an important part of the local diet and trout, though not native, is usually delicious. Bolivian soups are usually hearty and warming. Salteñas are very popular meat pasties eaten as a mid-morning snack, the challenge is to avoid spilling the gravy all over yourself.

Bolivia’s temperate and tropical fruits are excellent and abundant. Don’t miss the luscious grapes and peaches in season (February-April). Brazil nuts, called almendras or castañas, are produced in the northern jungle department of Pando and sold throughout the country.

Most restaurants do not open early but many hotels include breakfast. Breakfast and lunch can also be found in markets, but eat only what is cooked in front of you. In pensiones and cheaper restaurants a basic lunch (almuerzo, usually finished by 1300) and dinner (cena) are normally available. The comida del día is the best value in any class of restaurant. Dishes cooked in the street are not safe.

There are several makes of local lager-type beer; Paceña and Auténtica are the best-selling brands. There are also microbrews in La Paz. Singani, the national spirit, is distilled from grapes, and is cheap and strong. Chuflay is singani and a fizzy mixer, usually 7-Up. Chicha is a fermented maize drink, popular in the highlands. Good wines are produced by several vineyards near Tarija (tours are available, see here). The hot maize drink, api (with cloves, cinnamon, lemon and sugar), is good on cold mornings. Bottled water (many brands with and without gas) is readily available but make sure the seal is unbroken. Tap, stream and well water should never be drunk without first being purified.

Ecuador

Ecuadorean cuisine varies extensively with region. The large cities have a wide selection of restaurants. Seafood plays an important role on the coast, particularly in the very popular ceviche (marinated raw fish, distinct from the Peruvian variety). Most Ecuadorean food is not spicy but every table has a small bowl of ají (hot pepper sauce).

Upmarket restaurants add 24% to the bill: 14% tax plus 10% service. All other places add the 14% tax, which is also charged on non-essential items in food shops. Tipping is not expected in the many cheaper places serving almuerzos and meriendas (set lunch and dinner).

The main beers available are Pilsener and Club. Argentine, Chilean and other imported wines can be found in major cities. The most popular local spirit is unmatured rum, called aguardiente (literally ‘fire water’), also known as puntas, trago de caña, or just trago. There are many excellent fruit juices, including naranjilla and tomate de arbol (both tomato relatives), maracuyá (passion fruit), guanábana (soursop) and mora (blackberry), but ask whether juices are prepared with purified water. You can find good cappuccino and espresso in tourist centres and many upscale hotels and restaurants.

Menu reader

Peru

causa rellena entrée cold mashed potatoes with lemon juice, tuna or chicken salad and mayonnaise

ceviche raw white fish marinated in lemon juice, onion and hot pepper

cuy guinea pig

escabeche fried fish or chicken seasoned with pickled onions and hot peppers, served warm or cold

lomo saltado strips of beef stir fried with potatoes, onions, tomatoes and hot peppers

mazamorra morada a purple corn-flour pudding served as a snack or light dessert

palta rellena avocado filled with tuna or chicken salad

papa a la huancaína a starter: slices of cold boiled potato in a spicy creamy cheese sauce

rocoto relleno hot peppers stuffed with ground meat

Bolivia

ají de lengua ox-tongue with hot peppers, potatoes and chuño or tunta

chairo soup made with meat, vegetables and chuño

chuño dehydrated potatoes

fricase juicy pork

parrillada mixed grill

pique macho roast meat, sausage, chips, onion and pepper

sajta de pollo hot spicy chicken with onion, fresh potatoes and chuño

salteñas meat pasties

silpancho very thin fried breaded meat

tunta dehydrated potato

Ecuador

cuy guinea pig

encocadas dishes prepared in coconut milk

fritada fried pork

hornado roast pork

humitas tender ground corn steamed in corn leaves

llapingachos fried potato and cheese patties

locro de papas potato and cheese soup

patacones thick fried plantain chips

sopa de bola de verde plantain dumpling soup

Lima

Huaraz & the cordilleras

North coast

Northern highlands

South coast

Arequipa & the far south

Lake Titicaca

Cuzco

Sacred Valley of the Incas

Central highlands

Amazon Basin

Footprint

picks

Lima, see here

Historic buildings and the best food and nightlife in the country.

Cordillera Blanca, see here

A region of jewelled lakes and dazzling mountain peaks.

Huaca de la Luna, see here

The remains of the once-mighty Moche Empire.

Chachapoyas, see here

Mysterious cities and cliff-side burial sites.

Nazca Lines, see here

Vast, enigmatic drawings etched into miles of barren southern desert.

Colca and Cotahuasi canyons, see here and here

See the majestic Andean condor, rising on the morning thermals.

Cuzco and the Sacred Valley, see here and here

Colonial churches, pre-Columbian ruins and unforgettable Machu Picchu.

Southern jungle, see here

Marvel at the diversity of habitats and wildlife.

Lima

Lima’s colonial centre and suburbs, shrouded in fog which lasts eight months of the year, are fringed by the pueblos jóvenes which sprawl over the dusty hills overlooking the city. It has a great many historic buildings and some of the finest museums in the country and its food, drink and nightlife are second to none. Although not the most relaxing of South America’s capitals, it is a good place to start before exploring the rest of the country.

Central Lima Colour map 2, C2.

the traditional heart of the city retains its colonial core

An increasing number of buildings in the centre are being restored and the whole area is being given a new lease of life as the architectural beauty and importance of the Cercado (as it is known) is recognized. Most of the tourist attractions are in this area. Some museums are only open 0900-1300 from January to March, and some are closed entirely in January.

Plaza de Armas (Plaza Mayor) and around

One block south of the Río Rímac lies the Plaza de Armas, or Plaza Mayor, which has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Running along two sides are arcades with shops: Portal de Escribanos and Portal de Botoneros. In the centre of the plaza is a bronze fountain dating from 1650.

The Palacio de Gobierno Mon-Fri 0830-1300, 1400-1730, on the north side of the Plaza, stands on the site of the original palace built by Pizarro. The changing of the guard is at 1145-1200. The palace can be visited on a free 45-minute tour (Spanish and English); register two days in advance at the palace’s tourist office (ask guard for directions).

The Cathedral T01-427 9647, Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat 1000-1300; entry to cathedral US$3.65, ticket also including Museo Arzobispado US$11, was reduced to rubble in the earthquake of 1746. The reconstruction, on the lines of the original, was completed 1755. Note the splendidly carved stalls (mid-17th century), the silver-covered altars surrounded by fine woodwork, mosaic-covered walls bearing the coats of arms of Lima and Pizarro and an allegory of Pizarro’s commanders, the ‘Thirteen Men of Isla del Gallo’. The remains of Francisco Pizarro, found in the crypt, lie in a small chapel, the first on the right of the entrance. The cathedral’s Museo de Arte Religioso has sacred paintings, portraits, altar pieces and other items, as well as a café and toilets. Next to the cathedral is the Archbishop’s Palace and museum T01-427 5790, Mon-Sat 0900-1700, rebuilt in 1924, with a superb wooden balcony. Permanent and temporary exhibitions are open to the public.

Best for

Colonial architecture ■ Cuisine ■ Museums ■ Nightlife

Essential Lima

Finding your feet

All international flights land at Jorge Chávez airport in Callao, 16 km northwest of the centre; take a taxi into town. If arriving in the city by bus, most of the recommended companies have their terminals just south of the historic centre, many on Avenida Carlos Zavala. This is not a safe area so you should take a taxi to and from there. Downtown Lima is the historic centre of the city and retains many colonial buildings. Miraflores is 15 km south. It has a good mix of places to stay, parks, great ocean views, bookstores, restaurants and cinemas. From here you can commute to the centre by bus (45 minutes minimum) or taxi (30 minutes minimum). Neighbouring San Isidro is the poshest district, while Barranco, a little further out, is a centre for nightlife. Callao, Peru’s major port, merges with Lima but is a city in its own right, with over one million inhabitants.

Getting around

Downtown Lima can be explored on foot by day; at night a radio taxi is safest. Buses, combis and colectivos provide an extensive public transport system but are not entirely safe. Termini are posted above the windscreens, with the route written on the side. There is also the Metropolitano rapid transit bus system and a limited metro service, neither of which is particularly useful for visitors. In most cases, taxis are the best way to travel between different districts. Bear in mind that Lima’s roads are horribly congested at all times of day, so allow plenty of time to get from A to B and be patient. See also Transport, here.

Tip…

Several blocks, with their own names, make up a long street, a jirón (often abbreviated to Jr). Street corner signs bear both names, of the jirón and of the block. In the historic centre blocks also have their colonial names.

When to go

Only 12° south of the equator, one would expect a tropical climate, but Lima has two distinct seasons. The winter is May-November, when a garúa (mist) hangs over the city, making everything look grey. It is damp and cold. The sun breaks through around November and temperatures rise. Note that the temperature in the coastal suburbs is lower than the centre due to the sea’s influence. Protect against the sun’s rays when visiting the beaches.

Time required

A few days are enough to see the highlights; a full week will allow more in-depth exploration.

Just behind the Municipalidad de Lima is Pasaje Ribera el Viejo, which has been restored and is now a pleasant place, with several good cafés with outdoor seating. Nearby is the Casa Solariega de Aliaga Unión 224, T01-427 7736, Mon-Fri 0930-1300, 1430-1745, US$11, knock on the door and wait to see if anyone will let you in, or contact in advance for tour operators who offer guided visits. It is still occupied by the Aliaga family and is open to the public and for functions. The house contains what is said to be the oldest ceiling in Lima and is furnished entirely in the colonial style. The Casa de la Gastronomía Nacional Peruana Conde de Superunda 170, T01-426 7264, www.limacultura.pe, US$1, behind the Correo Central, has an extensive permanent collection of objects and displays on Peruvian food, historic and regional. It also has temporary exhibitions on the same theme. All signs