The setting sun highlights the capybaras huddled in the glittering shallows as a skimmer glides above the lazing caimans. Beneath Los Llanos’ booming birdsong there’s a distant mechanical hum: Laura Miranda, ecologist and director of the Cunaguaro Foundation, is up in the microlight tracking a giant anteater and is on the phone directing her land-based colleague, Cesar Rojano Bolano, to its location. Suddenly our naturalist Daniel Restrepo gets the call: We’re on! I pile into the 4WD with my six travel buddies and, as the full moon rises, we bump across the plains
