BEST IN EUROPE 2019
10 Istria Croatia
There’s something regal about Istria’s heart-shaped peninsula, with its limestone riviera, grand monuments and abundant fine produce. Perhaps that’s why the Romans, Venetians and Austro-Hungarians tussled over this beautiful, fertile land for centuries. Begin with the history: Pula’s Roman amphitheatre and Poreč’s UNESCO-listed mosaics. Then laze, with dozens of beautiful beaches to idle on, from Mulini, with its relaxed atmosphere and beach bar, to secluded Felsen Strand. Diversify with a gourmet cycle tour during spring, music festivals in summer, and truffle-hunting excursions come autumn.
FRESH FROM THE SEA
• The Istrian peninsula is surrounded by the Adriatic, inhabited by more than 400 species of fish. The main fishing ports on the west coast include Fažana, Novigrad and Rovinj (pictured), where the daily catch includes anchovies, sardines, red and grey mullet, scampi, shrimp, spider crab, octopus, squid and sea urchins. Traditionally, fish is prepared very simply, grilled with olive oil, so its quality is to the fore.
• Konoba Astarea is a good place to try freshly-grilled seafood, where you can watch your choice being cooked over an open fire. The fish is all caught by local fishermen that morning or the previous evening. A highlight of the menu is the deliciously delicate and simple scallops, grilled with olive oil, konjac root and wine (00-385-5277-4384).
• For something a little more sophisticated, make a pilgrimage to Konoba Batelina on the outskirts of Pula, run by father and son team Danilo Skoko and David Skoko. Father Danilo is a fisherman, and 60 per cent of the seafood served in the restaurant comes from his morning catch. The menu changes according to what’s available that day, and the restaurant closes in August, when local fishing doesn’t have the capacity to sustain it. Son David is the chef, and became famous locally after appearing on Masterchef (dinner only; 00-385-5257-3767).
9 Vevey Switzerland
Vevey will be popping even more corks than usual when the Fête des Vignerons takes place in July. Held once every generation – every 20 years or so – this three-week wine festival is one of the biggest of its kind, an all-singing,, the tiny Old Town is crammed with places to eat, serving everything from 20-course tasting menus to cheap and cheerful fondue. You can work off lunch with a swim in the lake or a walk along the edge of the vineyards.
