The Rough Guide to the Caribbean (Travel Guide eBook)

By Rough Guides

This practical travel guide to the Caribbean features detailed factual travel tips and points-of-interest structured lists of all iconic must-see sights as well as some off-the-beaten-track treasures. Our itinerary suggestions and expert author picks of things to see and do will make it a perfect companion both, ahead of your trip and on the ground. This Caribbean guide book is packed full of details on how to get there and around, pre-departure information and top time-saving tips, including a visual list of things not to miss. Our colour-coded maps make the Caribbean easier to navigate while you're there. This guide book to the Caribbean has been fully updated post-COVID-19.

The Rough Guide to the Caribbean covers: The Bahamas, Turks & Caicos, Cuba, The Cayman Islands, Jamaica, Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, The Virgin Islands, Anguilla, St Martin, Saba & St Eustatius, St Kitts & Nevis, Montserrat, Antigua & Barbuda, The French West Indies, Dominica, St Lucia, Barbados,  St Vincent & the Grenadines, Grenada, Trinidad & Tobago, The ABC Islands.

Inside this Caribbean travel guide you'll find:

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR EVERY TYPE OF TRAVELLER
Experiences selected for every kind of trip to the Caribbean, from off-the-beaten-track adventures in Dominica to family activities in child-friendly places, like Nassau in the Bahamas, or chilled-out breaks in popular tourist areas, like Jamaica's Montego Bay.

PRACTICAL TRAVEL TIPS
Essential pre-departure information including the Caribbean's entry requirements, getting around, health information, travelling with children, sports and outdoor activities, food and drink, festivals, culture and etiquette, shopping, tips for travellers with disabilities and more.

TIME-SAVING ITINERARIES
Includes carefully planned routes covering the best of the Caribbean, which give a taste of the richness and diversity of the destination, and have been created for different time frames or types of trip.

DETAILED REGIONAL COVERAGE
Clear structure within each sightseeing chapter of this Caribbean travel guide includes regional highlights, brief history, detailed sights and places ordered geographically, recommended restaurants, hotels, bars, clubs and major shops or entertainment options.

INSIGHTS INTO GETTING AROUND LIKE A LOCAL
Tips on how to beat the crowds, save time and money and find the best local spots for diving, hiking, snorkelling, swimming and shopping.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THINGS NOT TO MISS
Rough Guides' rundown of the French West Indies, the ABC islands, St Vincent and the Grenadines' best sights and top experiences helps to make the most of each trip to the Caribbean, even in a short time.

HONEST AND INDEPENDENT REVIEWS
Written by Rough Guides' expert authors with a trademark blend of humour, honesty and expertise, this Caribbean guide book will help you find the best places, matching different needs.

BACKGROUND INFORMATION
Comprehensive 'Contexts' chapter of this travel guide to the Caribbean features fascinating insights into the Caribbean with coverage of history, religion, ethnic groups, environment, wildlife and books, plus a handy language section and glossary.

FABULOUS FULL COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY
Features inspirational colour photography, including the stunning Pitons in St Lucia and the spectacular Boiling Lake in Dominica.

COLOUR-CODED MAPPING
Practical full-colour maps, with clearly numbered, colour-coded keys for quick orientation in Castries (St Lucia), Roseau (Dominica), Havana (Cuba) and Kingston (Jamaica), and many more locations in the Caribbean, reduce the need to go online.

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• Language: English
• Publisher: Insight Guides
• Release date: Oct 1, 2023
• ISBN: 9781839059490

Rough Guides

Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

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Contents

Introduction to The Caribbean

Where to go

When to go

Author picks

things not to miss

Itineraries

Basics

Getting there

Inter-island transport

Health

Accommodation

Food and drink

Sports and outdoor activities

Travel essentials

Bahamas

History

New Providence

Grand Bahama

The Abacos

Andros and North Bimini

Eleuthera

The Exumas

Cat Island and San Salvador

Long Island and the Southern Bahamas

The Southern Bahamas

Turks and Caicos

History

The Caicos Islands

The Turks Islands

Cuba

History

Havana and around

Around Havana

Pinar del Río

Varadero and the Península de Zapata

Trinidad and around

Around Trinidad

Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo

Northern Oriente

Santiago de Cuba and Granma

Granma and the Sierra Maestra

Cayo Largo

The Cayman Islands

History

Grand Cayman

Cayman Brac

Little Cayman

Jamaica

History

Music

Kingston

East of Kingston

The Blue Mountains and Portland

Portland

Ocho Rios and around

Western Jamaica

Negril

The south coast

Dominican Republic

History

Santo Domingo and around

The southeast

The Samaná Peninsula

The Silver Coast

The Cibao

The Cordillera Central

Barahona

Puerto Rico

History

San Juan

Around San Juan

Porta del Sol and the southwest

Ponce

La Ruta Panorámica

Vieques and Culebra

Culebra

The Virgin Islands

History

The United States Virgin Islands

The British Virgin Islands

Anguilla

History

The interior

The coasts

Saint Martin/Sint Maarten

History

Saint Martin

Sint Maarten

Saba and St Eustatius

History

Saba

Sint Eustatius

St Kitts and Nevis

History

St Kitts

Nevis

Montserrat

History

Northern Montserrat

Antigua and Barbuda

History

St John’s and around

From Runaway Bay to Half Moon Bay

Falmouth and English Harbour

The west coast

Barbuda

The French West Indies

History

Guadeloupe

Martinique

St Barthélemy

Dominica

History

Roseau

South to Scotts Head

Morne Trois Pitons National Park

The rest of the island

St Lucia

History

Castries and around

Rodney Bay and the north

Soufrière and the west coast

The south coast

The east coast

Barbados

History

Bridgetown and around

The south coast

The west coast

Central Barbados

The north

The north coast

The east coast

St Vincent and the Grenadines

History

St Vincent

The Grenadines

Grenada

History

St George’s

The southwest

The rest of the island

Carriacou

Petite Martinique

Trinidad and Tobago

History

Port of Spain and the Western Tip

The Western Tip

The north

Central and south Trinidad

Tobago

The ABC Islands

History

Aruba

Bonaire

Curaçao

Small print

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Introduction to The Caribbean

Palm trees swaying over white-sand beaches, pellucid waters with teeming reefs just a flipper kick from the shore and killer rum cocktails brought right to your lounge chair – this is the Caribbean, everyone’s favourite tropical fantasy. The ultimate place to lie on the beach and unwind, the region offers sun, sand and corporeal comforts aplenty, and has long seduced those after life’s sybaritic pleasures.

Given these obvious draws, a holiday in the Caribbean – anywhere in the Caribbean – is commonly proffered as the ultimate getaway. But buying into this postcard-perfect stereotype and failing to recognize the individual idiosyncrasies of the islands that make up the archipelago is the biggest mistake a visitor can make. Drawing on the collective traditions of Africa, together with those brought here by Spain, Britain, France, the Netherlands and India, no other area in the Americas exhibits such a diverse range of cultural patterns and social and political institutions: there’s a lot more on offer here than sun, sea, sand and learning to limbo.

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Culturally, this relatively small, relatively impoverished collection of islands has had an impact quite out of tune with its size, from the Jamaican sound-system DJs who inspired hip-hop, to the pre-Lenten bacchanalia that has come to define carnivals worldwide. Over the last five hundred years, each country or territory has carved out and maintained its own identity (some much more recently than others, with the onset of mass tourism and the advent of the all-inclusive resort), and it’s hard to think of worlds so near and yet so disparate as the sensual son and salsa of Cuba compared to the dancehall and Rasta militancy of neighbouring Jamaica or the poppy zouk of Martinique and Guadeloupe. Sport rivals music as a Caribbean obsession, and though golf is well represented by the scores of world-class courses and football is popular amongst the youth, the region’s game of choice has traditionally been cricket, introduced by the British and raised to great heights by the West Indies team, which led the world for much of the 1970s and 1980s. Wins are rather less common these days, but cricket remains central to the Caribbean psyche, with international matches known to bring their host islands to a complete standstill. Other popular spectator sports include soccer and baseball, firmly entrenched in the Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico and Cuba, and track and field, in Jamaica, the home of the fastest man in the world.

Fact file

The combined population of the Caribbean islands is over 44 million; Great Inagua in the Bahamas has a human population of less than 1000 but is home to 80,000 pink flamingos, spoonbills and ducks.

Tourism is by far the region’s biggest business, with around 32 million visitors each year. With over eight million annual visitors, the Dominican Republic is the most popular destination; Montserrat, with around 8300, is the least visited.

The Caribbean Sea is the fifth largest body of water in the world, with a total area of 2.5 million square kilometres (slightly bigger than the Mediterranean).

The highest point in the region is the Dominican Republic’s Pico Duarte, at 3101m above sea level – it even gets some snow in winter. The DR also holds the Caribbean’s lowest point: Lago Enriquillo, some 46m below sea level.

With an estimated 330,000 people diagnosed HIV-positive, HIV/AIDS infection rates in the Caribbean are among the highest in the world, second only to sub-Saharan Africa.

St Lucia has produced two Nobel Prize winners, the poet Derek Walcott and the economist Sir Arthur Lewis, while Trinidad has produced one, the novelist V.S. Naipaul.

Each island has a strong culinary tradition, too, and while you might come here to sample Caribbean classics such as Trinidadian roti, Grenadian oil-down or Dominican mountain chicken (actually a very big frog), you can also enjoy croissants and gourmet dinners in the French islands or Dutch delicacies in the Netherlands Antilles – and on every island with a fair-sized tourism industry, you’ll find international restaurants of every ilk alongside hole-in-the-wall shacks selling local specialities.

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The Capitol in Havana, Cuba

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The Caribbean’s natural attractions are equally compelling, its landscapes ranging from teeming rainforest, mist-swathed mountains and volcanic peaks to lowland mangrove swamps, lush pastureland and savannah plains. The entire region is incredibly abundant in its flora, despite the sometimes volcanic or scrubby interiors on some islands. Heliconias and orchids flower almost everywhere, while hibiscus and ixoras brighten up the hedgerows, and the green of forest canopies are enlivened by flowering trees such as poinsettia and poui. Not surprisingly, eco-tourism abounds, whether it be hiking through the waterfall-studded rainforest of Dominica or St Lucia, high-mountain treks in Jamaica or birding in Trinidad, which has one of the highest concentrations of bird species in the world. The sea is as bountiful as the land; besides taking in excellent diving and snorkelling around multicoloured reefs and sunken ships that play host to technicolour marine life, you can turtle-watch on innumerable beaches that see nesting leatherbacks and hawksbills, go whale-spotting from St Lucia, Dominica and the Dominican Republic or frolic with giant manta rays offshore from Tobago and stingrays in the Caymans.

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Beach houses in the Cayman Islands

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Haiti

Truly historic as the Americas’ first black republic, world-renowned centre for arts and music, and home to a continuous heritage of syncretic African religious practices, Haiti is one of the most culturally interesting countries in the region. We have, however, chosen not to cover Haiti in this edition of the Guide due to continuing political instability and violence. Of particular concern is an ongoing rash of kidnappings that have targeted returning expatriates and others who appear to have access to money. The successful slave rebellion that overthrew the colonial government some two centuries ago did not solve all political woes; military dictatorships and presidents-for-life have followed in modern times, as has the occasional contested election. The country remains, furthermore, in the economic doldrums, its teeming capital Port-au-Prince comprised of many depressed neighbourhoods, and much of its green and lovely countryside not at all set up for the casual traveller. Prospective visitors to Haiti are strongly encouraged to consult recent travel advisories put out by the British Foreign Office (www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice) and the US State Department (https://travel.state.gov/).

Beyond their cultural and physical richness, the Caribbean islands share a similar history of colonization. The first known inhabitants, farming and fishing indigenous peoples, namely the Taíno and the Kalinago, who travelled from South America by way of dugout canoes around 500 BC, were swiftly and brutally displaced by Christopher Columbus, the Italian explorer who discovered the region for Spain in the late fifteenth century, touching down on the Bahamas, Puerto Rico, Cuba, Hispaniola (modern-day Haiti and the Dominican Republic) and Jamaica, and mistakenly assuming that he had found the outlying islands of India, bestowing the title West Indies to the region. Seduced by fantasies of innumerable riches, the British, French and Dutch soon followed the Spanish, and the colonizers squabbled over their various territories for most of the sixteenth century. Colonization efforts were hindered by pirates and state-licensed privateers who plundered settlements and vessels without mercy.

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St Lucia sunset

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Nonetheless European colonies were planted throughout the region, and by the seventeenth century, the islands had begun to be developed in earnest. The British (and later the Spanish and the French) established huge sugar cane plantations, which required large numbers of labourers to operate. They satisfied this need by engaging in the slave trade, an appalling tragedy of immense proportions. Between twelve and fifteen million people were transported under abominable conditions to the region from Africa, many of whom died during the passage over. Plantation life for slaves was one of unimaginable barbarity, and eighteenth-century rebellions, combined with Christian tenets of humanity and charity, engendered the first moves toward emancipation – between 1833 and 1888, slavery was abolished in the Caribbean.

How to pick a beach

Finding a beach that suits your tastes shouldn’t be hard, given that Caribbean shores can be as varied as the islands themselves. Spectacular swathes of beach are ten-a-penny here, but for the archetypal stretch of powdery white sand, lapped by warm clear water and generously endowed with coconut palms, you’ll want to head to low-lying coralline islands such as Antigua (said to boast 365 beaches – one for every day of the year), the Bahamas (which has pink sand as well as white) or, in no particular order, Barbados, Aruba, Cayman Islands, Virgin Islands, Anguilla and the Turks and Caicos. If you’re after desert-island solitude, you’ll need to be willing to go off the beaten track: the best spots were snapped up long ago by developers who’ve added everything from hotels, bars and restaurants to watersports, and usually charge a fee for use of the facilities.

Those willing to dig a bit deeper might consider checking out the Caribbean’s stunning grey- or black-sand beaches (the happy result of age-old volcanic activity), many of which are relatively undeveloped and surrounded by lush tropical foliage – St Lucia, Grenada, Dominica, St Vincent, Guadeloupe and Martinique are all solid contenders, while the larger of the Windward Islands have all types of beaches.

Remember that many islands have coastline on the Atlantic Ocean as well as the Caribbean Sea; beaches on the Atlantic side typically have rougher waves and cooler, green-tinged depths, while those on the Caribbean are usually calmer, warmer and properly conform to the classic white-sand-and-palms image.

After emancipation, conditions for all but the planter elite remained abysmal, and the formation of unions and subsequent labour strikes led, by the 1930s, to the creation of political parties throughout the region. This in turn nudged the islands to call for independence from their colonial rulers, increasingly so after World War II. The early twentieth century also saw tourism start to take root. Wealthy British and North Americans had patronised palatial resorts here since the late nineteenth century, and the glitterati followed in the footsteps of Errol Flynn to Jamaica and Ernest Hemingway to Cuba, thus creating the air of exclusivity that remains inextricably tied to the Caribbean. With the introduction of long-haul air travel in the 1960s, tourists began to arrive en masse. While fenced-off all-inclusive enclaves are still going strong today, the region now has as many budget-oriented bolt holes as it does luxury resorts, and as many possibilities for adventurous travel as it does for staid beach holidays.

Rum

Tipple of choice for the region, rum is an integral part of Caribbean life – even the smallest village has a rum shop where old men nurse glasses of overproof whites mixed with water and put the world to rights. Everyone has their favourite brew, ranging from home-brewed firewaters such as Tobago’s Babash or Jamaica’s John Crow Batty (strictly for masochists), to weaker, cocktail-friendly whites from Puerto Rico or sweet, rich, oak-aged concoctions like Cuba’s Matusalem – best drunk after dinner, and never to be adulterated with a mixer.

Rum-making has remained much the same over the centuries. Yeast is added to sugar cane juice or molasses to kick-start fermentation (which converts the sucrose to alcohol); this dead wash is then boiled, and the evaporating alcohol is collected. After a little blending and the addition of water, the white rums are ready to bottle; smoother brown rums are aged in oak barrels, which colour the spirit to varying shades of brown. It’s a simple process, but consider that it takes some ten to twelve tonnes of sugar cane to produce half a bottle of pure alcohol, and you’ll understand the prevalence of those endless fields of swaying cane.

Where to go

Spanning an arc from southern Florida to Venezuela on the South American coast, the islands of the Caribbean are made up of two main chains which form a 3200 kilometre breakwater between the Caribbean Sea to the south and the Atlantic Ocean to the north. Running south from Florida, the mostly limestone Greater Antilles (Cuba, Jamaica, Dominican Republic, Haiti, Puerto Rico and the Cayman Islands) comprise the largest and most geographically varied of the two chains, with white-sand beaches aplenty as well as rainforest-smothered peaks, which are remnants of submerged ranges related to the Central and South American mountain systems. Drier, somewhat flatter and boasting as many black-sand beaches as white, the volcanic Lesser Antilles can be further subdivided into the Leeward Islands (Anguilla, St Martin/St Maarten, St Barts, Saba, St Eustatius, St Kitts, Nevis, Antigua, Barbuda, Montserrat, Guadeloupe and the Virgin Islands) and Windward Islands (Dominica, Martinique, St Lucia, Barbados, St Vincent, the Grenadines and Grenada). North of the Greater Antilles, the Bahamas and Turks and Caicos islands sit alone, as do Trinidad and Tobago and the ABC islands (Aruba, Bonaire and Curaçao) in the south, just off the Venezuelan coast. The latter are an autonomous part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands and together with Saba, St Eustatius and St Maarten are collectively known as the Netherlands Antilles.

Carnival

Celebrated throughout the region, Caribbean carnival is an elaborate spectacle, when your senses are stimulated by the best in Caribbean culture and camaraderie. It has its roots in the pre-Lenten carne vale (literally farewell to flesh) of early Italian Roman Catholicism, a time when Catholics were meant to finish up the meat in their pantries in preparation for the fasting period of Lent, but which became a wild costume festival. It is said that the first Caribbean carnival originated in Trinidad and Tobago, rooted in empowerment and resistance, beginning in the late 18th century when French settlers would participate in carne vale. This was slowly adopted by slaves in their very own rendition as an opportunity to mock their oppressors, and following emancipation, celebrate their freedom. The Caribbean’s carnival has grown over the years shifting from its modern two-day festival into an entire season of jamboree between January and August, depending on the island. Unlike Carnival in Brazil, Caribbean carnival is a participatory celebration, making it a great way to fully experience the exuberance and joy of the festivities. Anyone can join in simply by signing up to play mas with a costume band, which can be arranged online before you arrive (see individual chapters for island-specific details).

Deciding which of the islands to visit, however, is the fifty-million-dollar question. Obviously, you’ll need to consider what you want from your holiday. If you’re after two weeks of sunbathing and swimming and don’t plan on doing any exploring, then you’ve the freedom to allow a travel agent to pick the cheapest deal available – or just flip through this guide and pick whichever resort sounds the most appealing. If variety is on your agenda, bigger islands which boast a diversity of landscapes – Cuba, Jamaica and the Dominican Republic – offer more scope for adventurous travel, with possibilities for hiking, rafting, eco-pursuits and cultural tours as well as beachlife; these probably demand a single-island trip. However, as island-hopping can be relatively easy, either by short plane trips or the occasional ferry, it’s well worth seeing more than one island, especially if you’ve picked a destination in the close-set Lesser Antilles.

When to go

As visitors mainly flock to the Caribbean to swap snow, rain and wind back home for the sun and warm waters of the tropics, it should come as no surprise to find that the region’s busiest time is the northern hemisphere’s winter (roughly Nov–Feb). During this high season, the daytime heat doesn’t reach blistering proportions, and is tempered by cool breezes and balmy evenings, while rain is generally restricted to brief early-afternoon showers. The downside, however, is that the beaches and attractions are busy, hotels are often full and flights can get overbooked, with fares at a premium. Prices for almost everything may decrease in the slow summer season, but it’s not an ideal time to visit the Caribbean: days are oppressively hot and humid and nights are muggy. Late summer also sees the start of the hurricane season (see page 63), which runs roughly from June to November, and even if there’s no big blow, this usually means a lot of rain. While there’s never really a bad time to holiday in the region, the Caribbean is best enjoyed in the shoulder seasons (early Nov and Feb through June), when flights and hotels are plentiful (and less expensive) and the weather dependable. Spring is also the season for catching one of the Caribbean’s many pre-Lenten carnivals.

Maximum daily temperatures and monthly rainfall

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec

San Juan, Puerto Rico

Max ºC 28 28 29 30 30 31 31 31 31 31 30 29

Max ºF 83 83 84 86 87 88 88 88 88 88 85 83

Rain mm/in 33/1 36/1 35/1 57/2 102/4 66/3 56/2 81/3 120/5 111/4 100/4 48/2

Nassau, Bahamas

Max ºC 25 26 26 28 29 31 32 32 31 30 28 26

Max ºF 77 78 79 82 85 88 89 90 88 86 82 79

Rain mm/in 23/1 25/1 31/1 36/1 72/3 103/4 77/3 91/4 96/4 81/3 42/2 23/1

Havana, Cuba

Max ºC 26 26 27 29 30 31 31 32 31 29 28 26

Max ºF 78 79 81 83 86 87 89 89 88 85 82 79

Rain mm/in 34/1 33/1 32/1 32/1 66/3 96/4 64/3 80/3 97/4 81/3 45/2 31/1

Kingston, Jamaica

Max ºC 29 29 30 30 31 31 32 32 31 31 30 30

Max ºF 85 85 85 87 87 89 89 89 89 88 87 86

Rain mm/in 11/.4 9/.4 9/.4 17/.7 51/2 53/2 30/1 42/2 67/3 79/3 48/2 24/.9

Bridgetown, Barbados

Max ºC 29 29 29 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 29

Max ºF 84 84 84 85 86 86 86 87 87 86 86 84

Rain mm/in 10/0.4 4/0.2 5/0.2 14/0.5 26/1 36/1 35/1 47/2 65/3 71/3 68/3 27/1

Port of Spain, Trinidad

Max ºC 29 30 30 31 31 30 30 31 31 31 30 30

Max ºF 85 85 86 87 87 86 87 88 89 88 87 86

Rain mm/in 33/1 17/0.7 12/0.5 26/1 62/2 113/4 115/5 106/4 89/4 92/4 116/5 79/3

Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic

Max ºC 29 29 30 30 31 31 32 32 32 31 30 29

Max ºF 84 85 86 86 87 88 89 89 89 88 86 85

Rain mm/in 16/0.6 17/0.7 44/0.7 30/1 61/2 47/2 40/2 47/2 53/2 53/2 39/4 19/0.8

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Author picks

Our author recommendations don’t end here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the ê symbol.

Our hard-travelling authors visited every corner of the Caribbean, from sandy beaches to majestic rainforests and enriching exhibits. Here are some of their favourite things to see and do across the region.

Island hopping Many destinations serve as a convenient home base for adventurous day trips to surrounding islands that are visible upon the horizon and easily accessible via boat, ferry, plane and even helicopter. Collect unique stamps in your passport from Martinique and Dominica, just miles off the coast of Guadeloupe (see page 393) or stay within the Bahamas’ archipelago and explore the Exumas and Abacos (see page 94).

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Pointe-À-Pitre, Guadeloupe

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Chasing carnival Coined as the greatest show on earth, Trinidad’s carnival (see page 516) is a deeply historical and culturally rich festival that is arguably the mecca of all carnivals in the Caribbean. It is bound to capture your heart and will leave you wanting more. Follow the sweet sounds of soca across the region from January through to December at each nation’s own carnival (see individual chapters).

Our favourite hiking trails While the region is known for its white sand beaches and tranquil turquoise waters, some of its greatest pleasures can be found in lush mountain ranges which offer sweeping panoramic views. Exhilarating and memorable hikes include the journey to watch the sunrise at Blue Mountain Peak in Jamaica (see page 187) and to visit the area’s most recently active volcano at La Soufriere in St Vincent.

Underwater splendours The Caribbean Sea is home to some of the greatest diving experiences in the world, ranging from breathtaking natural wonders, such as the Bloody Bay Wall in Little Cayman (see page 168) and Speyside, the Disneyland of diving, in Tobago (see page 537), to fascinating manmade sites, such as the RMS Rhone shipwreck in the British Virgin Islands (see page 301) and the Molinere Underwater Sculpture Park in Grenada (see page 503).

Immersive exhibits It is no surprise that the incredibly diverse region is known for its stellar selection of top-notch museums and galleries highlighting a variety of topics, including history, art, music and even coffee. Havana, Cuba is undoubtedly one of the best spots with around fifty museums to dive deep into. However, the region’s clear standout is the Kura Hulanda Museum in Curacao (see page 560).

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The Blue Mountains, Jamaica

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20

things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything that the Caribbean has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows is a selective and subjective taste of the islands’ highlights: spectacular natural attractions, thrilling ocean activities and rich cultural traditions. All highlights are colour-coded by chapter and have a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more.

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1 Trinidad Carnival

See page 516

The original Caribbean Carnival, easily the biggest and best in the islands, culminates in two days of fabulous costumed parades.

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2 Sea kayaking in the Exumas

See page 96

Kayaking around this island chain – stopping off at whichever deserted beach strikes your fancy – is a compelling adventure for first-time paddlers and experienced explorers alike.

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3 Boiling Lake, Dominica

See page 423

If the island’s ultimate hike leading to the lake fails to impress, the eerie sight of its steam-enshrouded waters most certainly will.

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4 The Pitons, St Lucia

See page 444

Towering over Soufrière, St Lucia’s oldest town, these distinctive twin peaks are, rightfully, the island’s most photographed sight.

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5 Street food

See page 516

Be sure to visit food stalls in places like Trinidad and Tobago for roti, fresh seafood and the like – they’re often the top spots to sample local cuisine and rub elbows with the islanders.

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6 Bonaire Marine Park

See page 556

Home to everything from angelfish to moray eels, and just one of the Caribbean’s spectacular marine habitats.

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7 Kura Hulanda Museum, Willemstad, Curacao

See page 560

The Caribbean’s finest exhibition on slavery and African civilisations, with exhibits that include a robe owned by Haile Sellassie himself.

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8 Windsurfing

See page 240

With its brisk trade winds and a plethora of schools and rental centres, the Caribbean is one of the best places to windsurf in the Western Hemisphere.

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9 Caves

See page 525

The limestone of many Caribbean islands has produced a multitude of caves – like Trinidad’s Gasparee Cave – which boast intricate formations of stalactites and stalagmites.

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10 Places you’ve never heard of

See page 337

Far off the beaten track lie islands like tranquil Saba, one of the unspoiled gems of the Caribbean.

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11 Plantation inns, St Kitts

See page 355

Exuding old-world ambience, inventive inns across the island – most housed in former sugar cane plantations – offer a break from the usual beachside accommodation.

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12 Jamaican nightlife

See page 185

From sweaty dancehalls to laid-back jam sessions or star-studded stage shows, the island’s phenomenal music scene is bound to keep you busy night after night.

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13 Cuban music

See page 121

The sounds of the Caribbean are every bit as important as the sights – be sure to check out some salsa and son in Cuba’s dance halls, or even on its streets.

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14 Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

See page 253

The preserved colonial buildings of the city make for excellent wandering, amid old fortresses, convents and the odd historic museum.

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15 Fresh seafood

See page 55

Don’t miss the region’s countless seafood options, including succulent fresh lobster and fish, a mainstay of menus everywhere from high-end restaurants to charming beachside shacks.

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16 Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman

See page 162

Lovely strands of coast like this lengthy one help make the Cayman Islands known for more than just offshore banking.

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17 The Baths, Virgin Islands

See page 302

Clamber about in this otherworldly landscape, where gigantic boulders form striking grottoes, pools and underwater caves.

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18 El Yunque, Puerto Rico

See page 260

There’s great rainforest scenery on islands like Grenada, St Lucia and Puerto Rico. The latter is home to El Yunque, the largest rainforest in the US and excellent for birdwatching opportunities.

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19 Habana Vieja, Cuba

See page 126

Untouched for years by tourism, the faded grandeur of Havana’s old town is unmatched in the region.

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20 Soufrière Hills

See page 363

Witness first-hand the terrible power of Montserrat’s active volcano, which last erupted in 1995 and destroyed half the island, including the now-abandoned capital of Plymouth.

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Itineraries

Create your own itinerary with Rough Guides. Whether you’re after adventure or a family-friendly holiday, we have a trip for you, with all the activities you enjoy doing and the sights you want to see. All our trips are devised by local experts who get the most out of the destination. Visit www.roughguides.com/trips to chat with one of our travel agents.

It’s not possible to see everything that the Caribbean has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. The region is incredibly diverse and even neighbouring islands can offer vastly different travel experiences. While a great way to see the Caribbean is to take one of the many cruises available in the region, they often skip over many hidden gems and don’t offer truly culturally immersive visits to the islands. What follows is a selective taste of the region’s highlights: historic plazas, bewitching mountain ranges and tempting beaches.

GRAND TOUR FROM JAMAICA TO DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

You could explore two of the largest islands in the region over the course of a two-week trip, which would give you more than enough time to soak in its greatest destinations and hidden gems.

1 Montego Bay Jamaica’s second largest city is the best spot to start off your trip. Station at one of their signature all-inclusive resorts but make sure to venture around town. See page 200

2 Seven Mile Beach The laidback beach town of Negril is home to this iconic stretch of sand, and also cliff jumping at Rick’s Cafe, ideal for a day trip from Montego Bay, only an hour’s drive away. See page 205

3 Ocho Rios After spending a few days in Montego Bay, visit this former fishing village for a few days to discover sites, such as Dunn’s River Falls and Mystic Mountain. See page 194

4 Kingston Live like a local and round off your trip in Jamaica with a night or two in the country’s cultural hub. Visit the former pirate city of Port Royal, Bob Marley’s former home turned museum, or enjoy a vibrant street dance. See page 178

5 Santo Domingo Direct flights connect Kingston to the Dominican Republic’s historic cobblestoned Zona Colonial. See page 224

6 Samaná Head up north to this idyllic town lined with grand palm trees and best known for its humpback whale sightings. See page 234

7 Puerto Plata Travel west along the northern coast and end your trip at this popular beach town on the silver coast. Take in the old and new city from a cable car ride to the top of Mount Isabela. See page 238

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ISLAND HOPPING FROM ANTIGUA AND ST MARTIN

Enjoy islands such as Antigua and St Martin over the course of eight days, where you’ll be thrilled to return to after day trips to its magnificent neighbours.

1 Stingray City Kick off your trip in Antigua with an unforgettable encounter with friendly stingrays who will happily swim with you in the shallow waters off the coast of the island. See page 379

2 Barbuda A quick trip to Antigua’s pristine sister island can be easily fit into your itinerary as it is just a short boat’s ride away. It is ideal for snorkelling and relaxing on its iconic pink sand beaches, notably Palm Beach, before heading back to Antigua for a sundowner. See page 383

3 Montserrat Not far off Antigua, the least-visited island in the Caribbean is worth the journey for once-in-a-lifetime views of its active volcano. Helicopter tours from Antigua offer a unique bird’s-eye view across the island’s exclusion zone. See page 358

4 Nelson’s Dockyard After days of island hopping, stay put at the world’s only surviving Georgian-era dockyard. It’s located on Antigua’s south coast with an immersive museum, fabulous dining options and the Shirley Heights Lookout nearby. See page 380

5 St Martin For a change of scenery, take a direct flight (less than an hour) from Antigua to this charming island, which is shared by the French and the Dutch. Its beautiful countryside and colourful cities are best explored by car to take in its similarities and differences. See page 326

6 Anguilla Once settled, visit this quaint island, about 18km off the coast of St Martin, which boasts a great day-trip offering an afternoon of pure relaxation and fresh seafood prepared steps away from the beach. See page 308

7 St Barts This secluded French island, frequently visited by the rich and famous, is easily accessible via boat from the south coast of St Maarten. It offers luxurious fine dining and spotless white sand beaches. See page 409

8 Grand Case Back in St Martin, indulge in authentic gastronomic delights offered by the elegant restaurants which line the streets of the island’s French side. See page 326

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FROM TRINIDAD CARNIVAL TO A COOLDOWN IN BARBADOS

Visit the Caribbean’s most underappreciated destination, Trinidad, for its biggest festival before cooling down in Barbados. A ten-day trip is the perfect amount of time to both enjoy both islands.

1 Port of Spain First things first, food. Upon arrival, make sure to visit the streets of Trinidad’s capital city to bask in their beloved street food options, such as corn soup, doubles, gyros and more. See page 519

2 Caroni Swamp Take a pause from the festivities one afternoon and discover the island’s largest mangrove wetland for a glimpse of its captivating flora and fauna, such as the stunning scarlet ibis. See page 530

3 Carnival From panyards to jouvert, the parties leading up to carnival are just as spectacular as the grand parade itself. On the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday, take to the streets of Port of Spain in elaborate feathered and beaded costumes listening to the melodic sounds of soca. See page 516

4 Barbados As the pre-Lenten festival ends, catch a flight to Barbados for a relaxing change of pace. Trinidad’s energetic steel pans are swapped for the sounds of waves crashing on the shores of Payne’s Bay on the platinum west coast. See page 450

5 Bridgetown Explore the island’s well-preserved historic capital on foot before stopping at the Mount Gay Rum Factory for a tour and tasting. See page 458

6 Bathsheba After a few days of recuperation, visit the island’s east coast to partake in exhilarating surfing at the soup bowl. See page 471

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The DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

Allow two weeks for this whistle-stop tour of the Dominican Republic, taking in distinctly wild, remote-feeling landscapes and the largest city in the Caribbean, Santo Domingo.

1 Punta Cana and Bávaro Start at the country’s largest resort zone, which has some good independent hotels nestled amid the all-inclusives. See page 233

2 Santo Domingo Give yourself at least three days to see the capital, prioritizing the Zona Colonial, but taking in at least one of the museums, restaurants or parks beyond the old city. See page 224

3 Samaná Peninsula The Samaná Peninsula is mesmerizingly picturesque and perfect for independent tourists, with loads of great, affordable places to stay and unforgettable whale watching. See page 234

4 Cabarete One of the premier spots in the Dominican Republic for watersports, Cabarete can lay claim to near-perfect kiteboarding conditions. See page 240

5 Santiago The DR’s second city has plenty going on and combines a lively going-out scene with a laidback charm. See page 242

6 Cordillera Central Pick your base for hiking in the Dominican Alps – Jarabacoa, the town best set up for tourism; San José de las Matas, a sleepy mountain village with breathtaking views of the mountains; or Constanza, a lush, scenic valley. See page 243

HAVANA, Cuba GRAND TOUR

You could cram this tour of Havana’s major sights into two days, but allow yourself three and there’ll be plenty of time to soak up the atmosphere.

1 Plaza de Armas The oldest and most animated of Habana Vieja’s squares is where Havana established itself as a city in the second half of the sixteenth century – and it’s been the barrio’s heartbeat ever since. See page 128

2 Obispo A microcosm of all that is changing in Havana, this pedestrianized thoroughfare is brimm­ing with a lively mix of street vendors, open-fronted bars, neighbourhood hairdressers, secondhand bookstalls and artists’ ateliers. See page 126

3 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes The country’s most spectacular museum houses its largest art collection: revel in the history of Cuban art (and Cuba itself) seen through Spanish colonial portraits, Cuban painting and sculpture and Revolution-inspired work. See page 128

4 Plaza de la Revolución Visit when the plaza is brimming with patriotic Cubans waving a sea of flags against a backdrop of sculptural tributes to Che Guevara, José Martí and Camilo Cienfuegos, and you’ll have yourself the ultimate revolutionary photo opportunity. See page 130

5 Casa de la Música, Miramar One of the city’s best music venues, hosting Cuba’s most popular musicians. See page 132

6 La Guarida The atmospheric beauty, on-point menu and slew of celebrity guests all keep this as Havana’s number-one paladar. See page 132

7 Gran Teatro ballet Watch some of the world’s finest prima ballerinas give mesmeric performances in an ornate building on the Parque Central. See page 128

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Basics

Getting there

Given the ocean-bound nature of the Caribbean, flying is the only viable option for many visitors. Flights either operate through major US hubs – Miami, say, or New York, sometimes through Puerto Rico – or direct from European cities like London, Paris and Amsterdam. Most cruises to the region depart from the US East Coast, making a flight to the US an inevitable part of the itinerary for those from elsewhere.

Air fares always depend on the season. In the Caribbean, high season is from mid-December to April, with fares peaking during the holiday season. Fares drop during the shoulder seasons – May to July – and you’ll get the best prices during the low, wet season, which runs from August to November (though from the UK, prices during the school summer holidays can be high). Of course, prices vary wildly depending on your destination and inevitably much cheaper deals are available to islands hosting flights from multiple tour operators, such as Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, Jamaica, Barbados and Aruba. Note also that flying at weekends is more expensive; price ranges quoted below assume midweek travel.

You can often cut costs by going through a specialist flight agent – either a consolidator, who buys up blocks of tickets from the airlines, or a discount agent, who may also offer special student and youth fares and a range of other travel-related services such as insurance, car rentals, tours and the like. Some agents specialize in charter flights, which are cheaper but departure dates are fixed and withdrawal penalties are high. Booking flights well in advance, or taking advantage of airline frequent-flyer programmes, can often knock a couple of hundred dollars off the price of your flight. Another way to vastly reduce the price of your Caribbean holiday – especially if you book last-minute, accept charter flights and don’t insist upon particular accommodation – is to book with a tour operator who can put together a package deal including flights and accommodation at an especially arranged price, and perhaps tours of the island or even a wedding ceremony as well.

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Oranjestad, Aruba

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Flights from the US and Canada

Most airlines operate their Caribbean flights from the East Coast of the US (New York, Boston, Miami, Philadelphia etc) and Toronto, except American Airlines, which flies from most major US cities to their Caribbean hub in San Juan with connecting onward services. Other direct flights include Delta’s service from Detroit to San Juan and Montego Bay and United’s wide range of Caribbean services from Houston. In Canada you can fly direct from Toronto to most Caribbean destinations. Flights from New York and Toronto average around four hours, while flights from Miami are about two hours.

Air fares peak around Christmas and New Year, when they can reach up to US$900–1000/CAD$1380–1535 from the East Coast of the US and Toronto. From January to April you can expect to get the best weather and pay US$100–200 less. Amounts drop during the shoulder season, when you’ll pay anything up to US$700/CAD$1125. The best prices are available during the (wet) low season from August to November – you should be able to get a regular fare for around US$600/CAD$700. Count on paying an extra US$300 or so to fly from the West Coast of the US. Note also that flying at weekends ordinarily adds at least US$50 to the round-trip fare.

Package tours can often be the most economical option and range from combined flight and accommodation deals to specialist tours. For details on scuba-diving tours, see page 56.

Airlines

Unless otherwise specified all phone numbers work in both the US and Canada.

Aeromexico 1-800-835-0269, www.aeromexico.com.

Air Canada 1-888-247-2262, www.aircanada.ca.

Air France US 1-800-237-2747, www.airfrance.us; Canada 1-800-873-2247, www.airfrance.ca.

Air Sunshine 1-800-327-8900, www.airsunshine.com.

Air Transat 1-877-872-6728, www.airtransat.com.

American Airlines 1-800-433-7300, www.aa.com.

Bahamas Air 1-800-222-4262, www.bahamasair.com.

Caribbean Airlines 1-800-920-4225, www.caribbean-airlines.com.

Cayman Airways 1-800-422-9626, www.caymanairways.com.

Delta Air Lines domestic 1-800-221-1212, international 1-800-241-4141, www.delta.com.

JetBlue 1-800-538-2583, www.jetblue.com.

KLM Royal Dutch Airlines 1-800-618-0104, www.klm.com.

Spirit Airlines 1-855-728-3555, www.spirit.com.

United Airlines 1-800-864-8331, www.united.com.

West Jet 1-888-937-8538, www.westjet.com.

Cruises from the US and Canada

Cruises are a popular way to visit multiple islands in a very short time. Trips can last anywhere from a few days up to a week or more and ships usually stop for a day at each port. Plenty of corporate cruise lines ply the Caribbean, offering all-inclusive cruises that can scale the heights of luxury (and costs) but can also be relatively affordable: a seven-day spin from Florida on a not-so-swanky ship could set you back just US$700 for the Western Caribbean, US$800 for the Eastern region and slightly more for the southern islands. The major drawback of cruises is that you only get to visit the tourist ports, making it difficult to know what the island is like in anything more than a superficial sense – and as a result, not contributing much to local communities either.

Websites such as www.cruise.com, www.cruisereviews.com and www.allthingscruise.com are helpful resources for deciding which cruise is best for you, taking into account price range, boat size and length of trip. While some companies offer cruises only, there are still many others that negotiate rates with major airlines allowing for fly/cruise options from most major airports in the US and the rest of the world. Seven-night cruises with the companies listed below range from US$500 for the Southern Caribbean (often starting in Barbados or Puerto Rico), or US$600 and US$650 for the Western and Eastern Caribbean respectively – most often starting in Florida – to US$4000 or more for the luxury liners. Prices are outside of the high season, when prices can jump by US$300–500, and are also exclusive of port charges, which add an extra US$200 or so.

Cruise companies

Carnival 1-800-764-419, www.carnival.com. A youthful cruise line with a big emphasis on fun, offering seven nights from Miami, Orlando or Fort Lauderdale.

Disney 1-800-951-3532, www.disneycruise.disney.go.com. Packages include seven nights from Key West, including a trip to Disney’s own Bahamian island. Other ports of call include St Maarten, Grand Cayman, St Thomas/St John and Nassau.

Holland America 1-800-628-4771, www.hollandamerica.com. Family cruise line, with hefty scheduled entertainment for both adults and kids.

Norwegian 1-866-234-7350, www.ncl.com. Top-quality luxury fleet offering seven-day cruises from Florida to the western Caribbean.

Princess 1-800-774-6237, www.princess.com. Seven-day luxury cruises (including spas and scuba diving) from Florida.

Regent Seven Seas 1-800-886-5374, www.rssc.com. Seven-day cruises from Florida to LA via the Caribbean and South America, starting at US$5000.

Royal Caribbean 1-800-256-6649, www.royalcaribbean.com. Caribbean specialists offering great deals for trips from Florida to destinations all over the region, and ships with such facilities as rock-climbing walls.

Silversea 1-888-978-4070, www.silversea.com. Top-notch nine-day all-inclusive cruises and fly/cruise options from all over the world.

Flights from the UK and Ireland

Most British and Irish visitors to the Caribbean are on some form of package tour. This is usually the simplest way of going about things, and even if you plan to travel independently and organize your own accommodation, a seat on a charter is almost always the cheapest way to reach your destination. But charters have their drawbacks, especially if your plans don’t fit exactly into their usual two-week straitjacket. As an alternative, several airlines fly direct scheduled flights from London to many Caribbean destinations, and you can find comparable fares with other carriers that require a stopover in the US. For former Dutch colonies Aruba, Bonaire, Curaçao, Saba, St Eustatius and St Maarten, try KLM via Amsterdam, or for Guadeloupe and Martinique – both colonies of France – you can fly from London with Air France via Paris.

There are no direct flights from Ireland to the islands, but there are good connections via London, New York or Miami (see Flights from the US and Canada).

If your holiday plans include little more than to stay in one place to soak up the sun, then a package holiday might be your best option; many specialist companies can arrange flights as well as accommodation ranging from self-catering apartments to all-inclusive hotels. Many operators offer specialized tours geared towards a wide range of interests: from couples wishing to get married in the Caribbean to diving enthusiasts and spa-seekers.

Airlines

Unless otherwise specified, all phone numbers work within the US and Canada only.

Aeroflot UK 7-495-223-5555, www.aeroflot.ru.

Air France UK 020 7660 0337, www.airfrance.co.uk, Republic of Ireland 01 679 6741, www.airfrance.ie.

American Airlines UK 0844-369-9899, Republic of Ireland 0818-710-299, www.americanairlines.co.uk.

British Airways UK 0844-493-0-747, Republic of Ireland 0344-493-0787, www.britishairways.co.uk.

Caribbean Airlines UK 0207-644-8845, Republic of Ireland 1-800-523-5585, www.caribbean-airlines.com.

KLM Royal Dutch Airlines 800-618-0101, www.klm.com.

Lufthansa 1-800-645-3880, www.lufthansa.co.uk.

United Airlines UK 0845-607-6760, www.united.com.

Virgin Atlantic Airways 1-800-862-8621, www.virginatlantic.com.

Charter flight operators

Jet2 www.jet2.com.

Titan Airways www.titan-airways.com.

TUI Airways www.tui.co.uk.

Travel agents

Apex Travel www.apex.travel. Specialists in flights to Australia, Africa, Far East, US and Canada.

ebookers www.ebookers.com. Low fares on an extensive selection of scheduled flights and package deals.

Joe Walsh Tours www.joewalshtours.co.uk. General budget fares agent.

North South Travel www.northsouthtravel.com. Friendly, competitive travel agency, offering discounted fares worldwide. Profits are used to support projects in the developing world, especially the promotion of sustainable tourism.

Premier Travel www.premiertravelltd.com. Discount flight specialists.

Rosetta Travel www.rosettatravel.com. Flight and holiday agent.

Trailfinders www.trailfinders.com. One of the best-informed and most efficient agents for independent travellers.

USIT www.usit.ie. Student and youth specialists for flights.

Specialist tour operators

British Airways Holidays www.britishairways.com/holidays. Using British Airways and other quality international airlines, offers an exhaustive range of package and tailor-made holidays.

Caribbean Expressions www.expressionsholidays.co.uk. Specializing in hotel holidays to most Caribbean islands, including diving packages to St Lucia, Tobago and the Cayman Islands, and yacht charters in the Virgin Islands.

Caribtours www.caribtours.co.uk. Long-established operator offering tailor-made breaks – including trips designed for families, spa-seekers, island hoppers and honeymooners – using scheduled flights to the Caribbean.

Hayes & Jarvis www.hayesandjarvis.co.uk. Specialists in long-haul holidays, particularly with diving destinations. Exotic weddings organized.

Journey Latin America www.journeylatinamerica.com. Specialists in flights, packages and tailor-made trips all over the Caribbean.

Just Grenada www.justgrenada.co.uk. The only company focusing exclusively on holidays in Grenada, with knowledgeable staff who have stayed at most properties and know the area well.

Kuoni Travel www.kuoni.co.uk. Flexible package holidays with extensive presence in the Caribbean and good family offers.

Thomas Cook www.thomascook.com. Long-established one-stop 24hr travel agency for package holidays or scheduled flights.

Cruises from the UK and Ireland

Cruises aren’t as good value an option from outside of the US, as you will have to fly stateside before getting on a boat, but several cruise operators work with major airlines to offer all-in package deals.

Celebrity UK 0344-493-2043, www.celebritycruises.com. Cruises with an emphasis on high-end pampering, including spas and art classes. Seven nights from Fort Lauderdale, Baltimore or San Juan.

Fred. Olsen UK 44-800-787-0733, www.fredolsencruises.com. An extensive range of Caribbean cruises; fourteen nights from £2400, including a flight from London or Manchester.

Flights from Australia and New Zealand

There are no direct flights from Australasia to the Caribbean. The best option for travellers is to fly to the US, the UK or the Netherlands to access the best possible selection of routes and fares. The most straightforward routes involve flying to the US West Coast or Canada and then transferring to Houston, Miami, or to the American Airlines hub in San Juan, for onward transportation. Fares tend not to vary much year-round, so expect to pay up to Aus$2000/NZ$2173 from Sydney to Miami, more at Christmas and New Year; add around Aus$500/NZ$590 to fly from Darwin or Perth.

Airlines

Air Canada Australia 1-800-954-196, New Zealand 00-800-6699-2222, www.aircanada.ca.

Air France Australia 61 29 33 82 260, www.airfrance.com.au.

Air New Zealand Australia 1800-132-476, New Zealand 64-9-357-3000, www.airnewzealand.com.

American Airlines Australia 02-9101-1948, New Zealand 09-308-4014, www.americanairlines.com.au.

British Airways 1-800-247-9297, www.britishairways.com.

Cathay Pacific Australia 61-131-747, New Zealand 64-800-441-289, www.cathaypacific.com.

Delta Air Lines Australia 1-800-144-917, New Zealand 1-833-691-0487, www.delta.com.

Fiji Airways 011-679-672-0777, www.fijiairways.com

KLM Royal Dutch Australia 62-2-9338-2263, New Zealand 64-988-48-101, www.klm.com.

Qantas Australia 13-13-13, New Zealand 0800-808-767, www.qantas.com.

Singapore Airlines 65-6407-5332, www.singaporeair.com.

United Airlines Australia 13-17-77, New Zealand 0800-747-400, www.united.com.

Virgin Atlantic Airways Australia 1300-287-202, New Zealand 61-7-3333-6688, www.virginatlantic.com.

Travel and specialist agents

Caribbean Destinations www.caribbeanislands.com.au. Specializing in hotel accommodation throughout the Caribbean, as well as holidays geared towards festivals and cricket.

Flight Centre www.flightcentre.com.au. Long-established independent travel agent that books everything from cheap flights to cruise ship specials.

Inter-island transport

One of the joys of Caribbean travel is the ease with which travellers can journey between islands, taking in two or three different cultures in one trip. Most islands are well connected by local and international airlines, although some – Cuba, for example, or Dominica – are less well served than most.

If you plan simply to travel between groups of islands – the Caymans, for example, the Virgin Islands, Leewards, or the Grenadines – the many small airline companies operating there run a regular and reasonable service, and some offer multi-islands tickets.

Alternatively, there is a high-speed ferry service between St Lucia, Martinique, Dominica and Guadeloupe, and another between St Barts, Saba, St Maarten and Anguilla (see page 51).

Airlines

Air Caraibes 0820-835-835, www.aircaraibes.com. Serves St Barts, St Martin, The Bahamas, Cuba, Haiti, the Dominican Republic, Guadeloupe, Martinique and Guyana.

Air Sunshine 954-434-8900, North America 1-800-327-8900, www.airsunshine.com. Fort Lauderdale to the Anguilla, Bahamas, Dominica, Puerto Rico, US and British Virgin Islands, St Kitts and Nevis, and St Maarten, flights between the above islands and charters beyond.

Arajet 829-947-6338, www.arajet.com. Airline connecting the Dominican Republic, Aruba, Curacao, St Maarten and Jamaica.

Bahamas Air 242-702-4140, www.bahamasair.com. Flights from Nassau to most Bahamian islands, Turks and Caicos, several Florida destinations, and Cuba.

Caicos Express 649-941-5730, www.turksandcaicosflights.com. Flights throughout Turks and Caicos, and to Haiti and Dominican Republic.

Caribbean Airlines 868-625-7200, www.caribbean-airlines.com. Flights between Trinidad, Tobago, Barbados, Dominica, Antigua, St Lucia, St Maarten, Jamaica, as well as Caracas, Guyana, Suriname, Miami and Toronto.

Cayman Airways 345-949-2311, www.caymanairways.com. Scheduled flights between several US cities and the Cayman Islands, Cuba, Honduras and Jamaica.

Cubana 53-7-266-4732, www.cubana.cu. Flights from Cuba to all over Latin America, Canada, Jamaica and the Dominican Republic.

Divi Divi Air 297-524-2264, www.flydivi.com. Best rates from Curacao to Bonaire, plus charters elsewhere.

Fly BVI 284-495-1747; www.flybvi.com. Operates charter flights between most eastern Caribbean islands and Puerto Rico.

InterCaribbean Airways 800-572-7628, www.intercaribbean.com. Services between Antigua, Barbados, Haiti, Dominica, Guyana, Turks and Caicos, Grenada, Jamaica, Bahamas, St Lucia, St Vincent, Puerto Rico, Cuba, Dominican Republic and the British Virgin Islands.

Jetair Caribbean 599-9-737-5522, www.jetaircaribbean.com. Curacao-based airline with services to Aruba, Jamaica, St Maarten and the Dominican Republic.

Mustique Air 784-488-8424, www.mustique.com. Scheduled and charter flights between Barbados, St Vincent, the Grenadines and Grenada.

SVG Air 268-562-8033, www.flysvgair.com. Offers scheduled service between St Vincent and the Grenadines, Barbados and Grenada, plus charters to Martinique, Dominica, Antigua, St Barts, Trinidad and St Lucia.

Vieques Air Link 888-901-9247, www.viequesairlink.com. Services around Puerto Rico and to the US Virgin Islands.

Winair 844-884-4649, www.fly-winair.sx. St Maarten-based company with scheduled flights to Anguilla, St Barts, Saba, St Eustatius, St Kitts, Nevis, and charters beyond. Multi-island tickets available.

Windward Express 599-545-2001, www.windwardexpress.com. Charter airline serving St Barts, Anguilla, Saba, St Eustatius and St Maarten.

Ferries

Some of the more useful inter-island services are listed below; note that there are no ferries between the ABC islands, or departing from Jamaica or Cuba. Ferries between islands within the same country are covered in their respective chapters.

Between St Maarten, Saba and St Barts

The Edge (721-544-2640) is a high-speed ferry leaving Mon-Fri; the crossing takes one hour and costs US$50 one-way.

The Voyager (590-590-87-10-68, www.voy12.com) travels between the islands every day. The round-trip fare is US$80 (US$38 one-way) and the journey takes 1hr 15min.

Between the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico

Ferries del Caribe DR 809-688-4400, San Juan 787-622-4800; www.ferriesdelcaribe.com. Vehicle/passenger ferry connecting San Juan, Puerto Rico and Santo Domingo, departs 7pm Mon, Wed & Fri from San Juan, and 7pm Tues, Thurs & Sun from Santo Domingo (12 hours; from US$65 one-way).

Car rental and driving permits

Car rental is straightforward on most Caribbean islands, with major companies vying with local outfits in terms of price. On many of the islands you will need to buy a local, temporary driving permit, usually valid for three to six months and costing US$15–25 (see individual chapters). Car rental costs US$240–350 per week for a compact automatic with air conditioning. Be prepared to be refused, or at least charged a hefty surcharge – sometimes as much as the regular rate again – if you are under 25. On most Caribbean islands vehicles drive on the left, with the exceptions being the ABC islands, St Maarten/St Martin, Cuba, Dominican Republic, Haiti, Puerto Rico, The French West Indies, Saba and St Eustatius.

Driving conditions and local driving patterns vary widely. Many roads are narrow or winding, signs may not be in English or simply non-existent, some routes may be little more than dust tracks and inaccessible after rain or without a four-wheel-drive vehicle, and in some places domestic animals roam freely. Defensive driving, therefore, is a must. Be prepared to use your horn – and hand gestures – liberally.

Between Guadeloupe, Dominica, Martinique and St Lucia

Express-des-Isles www.express-des-iles.fr. High-speed catamaran operating daily in the Windward Islands.

Val Ferry www.valferry.fr. Ferry operating between Guadeloupe, Martinique and Dominica.

Between Anguilla and St Martin

The Link Ferries www.linkferry.com. Ferries depart daily from Anguilla beginning at 8am.

Health

In general, travelling in the more developed areas of the Caribbean won’t raise many health concerns. You can count on food being well and hygienically prepared, and tap water in hotels and restaurants safe to drink (if heavily chlorinated and not very palatable). The preventive measures you need to take elsewhere will depend on the areas you visit but some general advice is given below.

The quality of medical care and facilities varies widely throughout the Caribbean. While it is excellent and readily available in places such as Aruba, the Bahamas, Barbados, the Cayman Islands, Martinique and Guadeloupe, others – particularly in rural areas on islands like the Dominican Republic – may consist of only a small, poorly equipped clinic. In any event, it’s a good idea to make sure that your medical insurance covers you abroad or else take out an insurance policy that includes medical coverage (see page 61).

Inoculations

No specific inoculations are required to enter any of the Caribbean islands, unless you’re arriving from a country where yellow fever is endemic, in which case you’ll need a vaccination certificate. (Consult your doctor or a travel clinic for advice on specific shots.) Islands that require yellow fever inoculations include Antigua, Bahamas, Cayman Islands, Cuba, Grenada, Guadeloupe, Jamaica, St Kitts and Nevis, St Lucia, St Vincent, and Trinidad and Tobago.

It’s also worth making sure that you’re up to date with polio, tetanus and typhoid protection; the latter is particularly recommended for those planning to visit rural areas of Puerto Rico, Cuba, Dominica and the Dominican Republic. Inoculations against hepatitis A and B are also strongly advised.

Malaria, dengue fever and CHIKV

The Caribbean is not a malarial zone, but cases of malaria have been reported in Haiti, the Dominican Republic (mainly along the Haitian border but still relatively low risk. While the risk to travellers is small, if you intend to travel in these areas it’s a good idea to take a course of prophylactics (usually chloroquine), available from a doctor or travel clinic.

There are slightly higher rates of dengue fever and chikungunya (CHIKV), other mosquito-borne illnesses whose symptoms resemble those of malaria but include extreme aches and pains in the bones and joints, along with fever and dizziness. The only cure for these illnesses is rest and painkillers, and the only precaution you can take is to avoid mosquito bites (see page 52).

Stomach problems

The most common food-related illness for travellers is diarrhoea, possibly accompanied by vomiting or a mild fever. Its main cause is a change in diet, whereby bacteria you’re not used to are introduced into your system. In many cases, the condition will pass within a few days without treatment. In the meantime, rest up and replace the fluids you’ve lost by drinking plenty of water, coconut water, or – for persistent diarrhoea – an oral rehydration solution, readily available from your home pharmacy, should do the trick. Barring that, you can make a home-made rehydration solution by dissolving half a teaspoon