The Island Hopping Digital Guide to the Windward Islands - Part IV - St. Vincent and the Grenadines

By Stephen J Pavlidis

This edition is Part IV of The Island Hopping Digital Guide to the Windward Islands and covers St. Vincent and the Grenadines.

The Island Hopping Digital Guides are the digital versions of the world-famous cruising guides written by Stephen J. Pavlidis. Over the past 20 years, Stephen J. Pavlidis has written more than 10 excellent cruisi

• Language: English
• Publisher: Seaworthy Publications, Inc.
• Release date: Jan 1, 2017
• ISBN: 9781892399717

Stephen J Pavlidis

Stephen J. Pavlidis has been cruising and living aboard since 1989. First aboard his 40' cutter-rigged sloop, IV Play, and today he is cruising aboard his 31' Chris Craft, Swan Song. Starting in the Exuma Cays, over 20 years ago, Steve began his writing career with guides to the many fascinating destinations he visited. Many of his books stand alone to this day as the quintessential guides to the areas he covers. His books are different than most other cruising guides in some very significant ways. All of the charts in Steve's books were created using data personally collected while visiting each area using a computerized system that interfaces GPS and depth soundings.

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The Basics

Anchoring

If this is your first visit to the Caribbean, and say perhaps that you are used to anchoring in areas such as the Bahamas where 15’-20’ of water is considered a deep anchorage, well I have news for you. In the Caribbean, 15’-20’ is considered a shallow anchorage, 30’-40’and more being the norm in a lot of places. Quite often you will find yourself anchored next to any one of the numerous charter boats you’ll see in almost every anchorage.

You’ll learn to keep an eye on charter boats as they anchor nearby with too little or too much scope at times. This is not an indictment of all charterers, only the few that give all a bad name.

Caribbean Etiquette

Proper etiquette is important when visiting foreign lands; lack of it can be embarrassing at the least and can create serious misunderstandings. For instance, when greeting people as you board a bus, give a hearty Good morning (if indeed it is morning) all around and it will be returned. The rule is greetings first, business later. Not offering a greeting first may be received as rude.

If you approach a home that has a fence, stop at the front gate and say loudly inside. If you receive no answer, try again. If there is still no answer, the folks are either not at home or don’t wish to be disturbed. And by the way, when two people are speaking, as with good manners everywhere, it is extremely rude to interrupt. West Indians don’t do it, neither should you.

Many Americans judge a man by the grip of his handshake, this does not work in the Caribbean where a soft, gentle hand embrace is more the norm.

I have heard some folks (Canadians and Americans, never the British) say that they are surprised that West Indians do not smile. This can create the misconception that the person does not like the cruiser. This is, to say the least, ridiculous. West Indian manners call for a reserved face to be shown, saving the smile for something funny or someone they are familiar with. The lack of a smiley-face should not imply a negative attitude to the visitor unaccustomed to the lifestyle here in the Caribbean.

Let’s discuss a very important subject, it will be a part of a lot that you do here in the Caribbean. Let’s take a moment and touch briefly upon the Caribbean pastime of liming. If you’re invited to join a group for a drink or a bite to eat, by all means, do! Hang out! You’ll be liming! People in the Caribbean can be found liming everywhere, in the streets, in restaurants and bars, at home, or even on your boat. Liming is just chilling, hanging out…get the picture?

I cannot end this section on etiquette without mentioning dress. What we cruisers take for granted in the way we dress while aboard is quite different from what is expected of us in public in the Caribbean. In town, a bathing suit is not acceptable and men should wear shirts as well as shoes. We should all dress as we would in going to our local mall when we go into any town in the Caribbean. Shorts and shirts are fine, bathing gear is not and is considered inappropriate. On some of the islands, particularly the French islands, it is not unusual for women to go topless on the beaches and even aboard their own boats, and yes gentlemen, it is rude to stare!

Chartering

Chartering in the Windward Islands (especially in the Grenadines) is big business, and not very difficult to arrange. Winter is the season for chartering and prices are higher then and reservations should be made well in advance for November through May. Prices from May to November may be as much as 40% lower, but don’t fret, the winds will still be steady.

You can charter just a boat, called a bareboat, or a captained vessel where you do as little or as much work on board as you desire. If you choose to go bareboat, you will likely have to prove to the charter company your skill level. This is usually done by a check-out sail before they let you take their expensive toys out on the water all by yourself.

Captains can be hired for somewhere between US$100-$150 a day and it is customary to tip them. Some charters are there and back again, while others will allow you to take the vessel downwind where a charter company captain will return it to the base after you fly out.

You usually provision these boats yourself or have the charter company do it for you, the choice is yours. Some folks opt for the convenience of a completely stocked larder courtesy of the charter company, while others prefer the island shopping experience. A good idea is not to plan on having all your meals aboard as there is an abundance of good restaurants ashore that cater to mariners.

Currency

The currency in use is the EC, or Eastern Caribbean dollar, which is set at a fixed rate of EC$2.67 per US$1.00. Throughout the islands you’ll find people that will gladly accept U.S dollars for payment, in fact, I don’t recall meeting a merchant that wouldn’t take my dollars. Dealing with independent businesses you often don’t get quite such a good rate while some will give you a discount if you make your purchase with Traveler’s Checks.

As you head down-island you’ll find money changing kiosks in many places such as St. Martin, and I would suggest that you stock up with a good supply of Euro’s and EC’s so you’ll be all set when you arrive at your next destination.

A final note on tipping. Unlike the United States, tipping is not always expected in the islands. In some places you will find a service charge added to the bill for your meal; no tip is expected here but it would certainly be welcome. Generally, a 10% tip is the norm. Contrary to what you expect, taxi drivers do not expect a tip (but I find this to be changing with those drivers who consistently work with tourists). But you will find a lot of drivers that go out of their way to help you and are certainly deserving of a tip. And don’t forget the children that offer to watch your dinghy or carry your bags for you, a little coinage goes a long way.

Customs and Immigration

Since the Windward Islands are made up of six different nations, Martinique, St. Lucia, Barbados, St. Vincent and the Grenadines, Grenada, and Trinidad/Tobago, each country’s particular customs regulations will be discussed in detail in the appropriate chapter.

There is a very useful travel web site for US citizens located at http://travel.state.gov that gives extensive international travel information, requirements and restrictions by searching for your destination from the home page.

eSeaClear has been replaced by Sail Clear in many locales. eSeaClear and Sail Clear are both services that provide vessel operators the ability to submit electronic notifications of arrival to participating Customs offices in the Caribbean. Sail Clear is now operating in the Cayman Islands, Grenada, St. Kitts, Nevis, Montserrat, Anguilla, Curaçao, Bermuda, St. Lucia, the BVI's, Dominica, as well as the Turks and Caicos Islands, while eSeaClear is currently only available in Antigua and Barbuda.

Currently registered users can access the eSeaClear and Sail Clear systems via the Internet to enter and maintain information about their vessel and crew. Prior to arrival at a new country the vessel operator simply insures that the information is accurate and submits a new notification. Upon arrival, Customs can access the notification information to process your clearance more efficiently and without the need for the Ship’s Master to fill out the declaration forms.

One thing that I must mention here is that it is absolutely imperative to get a clearance out from your last port of call. You will need it when you clear in at your next destination and you may be forced to return to your last port to obtain one if you arrive sans departure clearance. Also dress accordingly, shirts and shoes are required gentlemen!

Dogs are not permitted ashore in St. Lucia, Barbados, St. Vincent, Trinidad, and Tobago, and all dogs must have current rabies vaccination certificates. Once you’ve presented your rabies certificate and cleared in, you may take your dogs ashore on Martinique and Grenada.

Ports of Entry

St. Vincent - Blue Lagoon, Wallilabou, Kingstown, Ottley Hall Marina, Young Island Cut

The Grenadines - Port

Elizabeth (Bequia), Clifton (Union Island), Grand Bay (Mustique), Charlestown (Canouan)

Electricity

The islands of the Eastern Caribbean use 220 volt, 50-cycle AC power ashore. Most boats will require a step-down transformer to obtain 110 volt, 50-cycle shore power unless you have 220 aboard your vessel. Ashore, in hotels and private homes, you’ll need an adaptor to plug in a 110 volt, 60-cycle gadget. Most hotels will have adaptors, but few have transformers while some marinas will rent you a transformer.

Emergency Numbers

The following is an incomplete list of emergency and medical service phone numbers available in the Windward Islands.

St. Vincent (784)

Accent Dental (Kingstown): 456-2125 or [e-mail]

Botanic Clinic (private hospital): 457-9781

Chateaubelair Hospital: 458-2228

Customs (Chateaubelair): 458-7907

Customs (Kingstown): 456-1083

Customs (Chateaubelair): 485-7902

Emergency: 999 (for a marine emergency, contact St. Vincent Signal Station on VHF 16)

Milton Cato Memorial Hospital (Kingstown): 456-1185

Kingstown Medical College: 458-4832

Maryfield Hospital: 457-8991

Medical Associates Clinic: 457-2598

Police: 911/999

Police (Chateaubelair): 458-2229

Unique Animal Care (Arnos Vale): 456-4981

Unique Animal Care (Bequia): 456-3538

Unique Animal Care (Kingstown): 451-2265

The Grenadines (784)

Bequia (784)

Customs: 457-3044

Dental (Saturday AM only): 459-0745

Police: 458-3211

Port Elizabeth Hospital: 458-3294

Unique Animal Care: 457-3538

Mustique (784)

Clinic: 458-4621

Doctor: 488-8353

Union Island (784)

Customs: 458-8360

Union Island Health Center: 458-8339

Getting Around

Cruisers must find a way to get around on the islands they visit. Some love to walk everywhere locally, but eventually a taxi or bus is required for one reason or another. We won’t discuss rental cars here, they’re available almost everywhere, check the Appendices in the back of this guide for more information.

First, if you take a taxi, ALWAYS negotiate the fare before entering the cab and getting underway (and make sure the price quoted is in Euros, ECs, TTs, or US$). It’s a sinking feeling when you and the driver cannot come to terms on the fare and the taxi has entered some area where you are not familiar with the streets and have no idea where you are or where you can catch another taxi. You find yourself forced to pay his price to get to where you need to go. Don’t laugh, this happens and you don’t want to learn this first hand. Agree first, then get in the cab.

Don’t think that all taxi drivers are the descendants of pirates, they’re not, only an unscrupulous few. Most are dedicated to their jobs and do not hesitate to go out of their way for their passengers. Nearly all are fonts of local knowledge such as the best places to eat (even if they may direct you to their cousin’s restaurant) and where is the best grocery store. Once you find a good driver that you trust, you can use him like an agent to tend to your matters ashore.

Buses are the primary means of public transportation in the islands and for the most part, cover the major roads and communities. These buses are a sight to see! Loud (usually with a radio, music or talk, or CD on high volume) and colorful, with fanciful names that describe something personal for the driver (such as Da Boss) or something to inspire others (God is My Co-Pilot).

Travel by bus is the best way to get a feel for the local culture. Some are old school buses, but today the drivers are turning more and more to mini-buses and vans. Always come aboard with a cheerful Good Morning all around, remember, pleasure before business. In general, follow what the locals do, but in most cases, when you are ready to disembark, shout out Bus Stop as you approach your destination. And don’t be in a hurry, especially if the driver stops to chat up a pretty woman, it’s his route and he will run it the way he pleases. Just sit back and enjoy the ride.

Some buses cannot run without the driver’s helper, usually a young man who may spend the bulk of his time hanging out the side of the bus helping folks aboard and encouraging others to board his bus.

Although the driver normally runs a set route, they are not adverse to going off the beaten path, especially if you need help in dropping your bags of groceries at your dock instead of having to walk a quarter of a mile to the marina from the bus stop. Ask the driver to drop you off as close as possible to your boat and be sure to tip him for the convenience. Don’t forget to thank the other riders even though they’re probably used to such side trips. And don’t forget most buses stop running after dark so if you are going to the other side of an island, make sure that you can catch a bus back.

Holidays

Besides the normal holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Easter, the following holidays are