The Island Hopping Digital Guide To The Southern Bahamas - Part I - Long Island: Including Conception Island, Rum Cay, and San Salvador
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About this ebook
This edition is Part I of The Island Hopping Digital Guide to the Southern Bahamas and covers Long Island, Conception Island, Rum Cay and San Salvador.
The Island Hopping Digital Guides are the digital versions of the world-famous cruising guides written by Stephen J. Pavlidis. Over the past 20 years, Stephen J. Pavlidis has writte
Stephen J Pavlidis
Stephen J. Pavlidis has been cruising and living aboard since 1989. First aboard his 40' cutter-rigged sloop, IV Play, and today he is cruising aboard his 31' Chris Craft, Swan Song. Starting in the Exuma Cays, over 20 years ago, Steve began his writing career with guides to the many fascinating destinations he visited. Many of his books stand alone to this day as the quintessential guides to the areas he covers. His books are different than most other cruising guides in some very significant ways. All of the charts in Steve's books were created using data personally collected while visiting each area using a computerized system that interfaces GPS and depth soundings.
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The Island Hopping Digital Guide To The Southern Bahamas - Part I - Long Island - Stephen J Pavlidis
The Basics
Anchoring
Just as important as getting your vessel moving and keeping her heading along your chosen courseline quickly and efficiently is the fine art of keeping your vessel from moving. Many of the anchorages in this book are swept by swift tidal currents, sometimes up to 3 knots, and to avoid bumping into your neighbor in the middle of the night or putting your vessel on the rocks or beach, two anchors, such as in a Bahamian Moor, are required.
Anchor choice is basically a personal preference. Some skippers prefer CQRs, while others swear by a Bruce, a Rocna, or a Danforth. Of the lot, you will find that a Danforth holds as well or better than a CQR or Bruce in sandy bottoms while the CQR or Bruce is preferred when anchoring in rocky bottoms. Whatever your choice of anchor, you must deploy your anchor correctly and with sufficient scope to hold you when the tide changes, if a front approaches, or if a squall should blow through at 2:00 a.m. (which seems to be the time they choose to blow through). Your anchor should have a length of chain (at least 15’) shackled to your anchor to keep your rode from chafing against coral or rocks and to create a catenary curve that helps absorb shock loads while lowering the angle of pull on your anchor. Too high an angle may cause your anchor to pull up and out of the bottom. Some cruisers prefer all chain rodes with a nylon snubber to absorb the shock loads. This is an excellent arrangement but a windlass may be needed unless you prefer the workout involved with hauling in the chain and anchor every time you move.
In many of the leeward anchorages in The Bahamas you will find that you can lie quite comfortably to only one anchor. When setting your anchor do not just drop it and let your rode run out, piling itself on top of your anchor. Lower your anchor to the bottom and deploy the rode as you fall back with the current or wind until you have at least a 5:1 scope out, 7:1 is preferable but not always possible. When calculating the amount of scope required, be sure to allow for high tide as well as the height of your anchor roller or fairlead above the water. Without being precise, you can figure on a 2½’-3’ tidal rise in The Bahamas although occasionally you may find a 4½’ rise, and in general a little more rise during a full moon and a little less with no moon (remember that the soundings in this guide are at MLW, Mean Low Water, this means that it is possible to have a lower tide with less depth that what is shown). When you have secured your rode, back down with the engine at about ½ throttle to set the anchor. If you have not succeeded in securing your anchor, try again. To check the set it is best to dive on your anchors or at the very least, look at their set through a glass bottom bucket from your dinghy. You may find that you will have to set them by hand, especially in rocky areas.
If there are other boats in the anchorage when you arrive and they are riding to two anchors, or if you are in an area beset by tidal currents, it is best to set two anchors in a Bahamian Moor. Although one anchor may be fine if you have the swinging room, when the tide changes it may pull out and fail to reset. These anchorages are often very crowded and while you may swing wide on your one anchor and not find yourself endangered by the rocks or beach, you and your neighbor may go bump in the night because his two anchors have kept him in one spot. If unsure the best thing to do is follow the lead of those boats that are there before you. Conversely, if you arrive at an anchorage and everyone is on one anchor and you choose to set two, do so outside the swing radius of the other boats. If you are riding on one anchor and find that you are lying to the wind but that the swell is rolling you, position another anchor at an angle off the stern so as to align your bow into the swell making for a more comfortable night. Another option is to rig a bridle which allows your vessel to lie to the swells and not the wind.
To set a Bahamian Moor, you must first decide where you wish for your vessel to settle. You will lay out two anchors, one up-current and one down-current of that spot which will keep you swinging in a small circle. Head into the current to where you will drop your first anchor and set it properly. Let out as much scope as you can, setting your anchor on the way by snubbing it, until you are at the spot where you are to drop your down-current anchor. If the wind has pushed you to one side or the other of the tidal stream, you will have to power up to the position where you will set your second anchor. Lower your second anchor and pull your vessel back up current on your first rode, paying out the rode for the second anchor and snubbing it as you maneuver back up current to your chosen spot. You may want to dive on your anchors to check their set. Keeping your rodes tight will keep you swinging in a tighter circle. Check your anchor rodes daily as they will twist together and make it extremely difficult to undo them in an emergency.
In some tight anchorages you will be unable to set your anchors 180º apart. An alternative is to set them 90º apart in a Y
configuration perpendicular to the wind. A skipper with a large swing radius in very tight quarters is apt to find out what his neighbors think of his anchoring technique as soon as the wind shifts. Responsible anchoring cannot be over-stressed.
Always set an anchor light. Some cruisers feel this is unimportant in some of the more isolated anchorages. What they probably do not understand is that many locals run these islands at all hours of the night, even on moonless nights, and an anchor light protects your vessel as well as theirs. There are no designated anchorages
in The Bahamas.
It is important to note that the lee-side anchorages, especially those in the outer islands (Inagua, Plana, etc.), can get rolly at times (yes, you will learn a new dance, The Out Island Roll
). The Atlantic Ocean surge seeks out any way it can to round the tips of these islands to cause you seemingly no end of discomfort and here is not much you can do about it except possibly use a second anchor or bridle arrangement to keep your bow or stern into the swell. If using a bridle, set up your line on the opposite side that you wish to turn your vessel. For instance, if you need to turn your bow to port to face the incoming swells and make for a calmer ride, run your bridle line from a winch to a block on your starboard quarter and then forward outside your shrouds to your anchor line. Either tie it to your rode or, if you use all chain, attach it to the shackle where your nylon snubber (be sure to use a long one, at least 10’-20’ if you are setting up for a bridle arrangement) hooks to your chain. After your anchor is set, simply crank in your bridle line bringing your bow to port and off the wind.
Anchorages on the eastern shores of the Bahamian out-islands are all daytime anchorages only, due to the prevailing winds and should be used only in settled or westerly weather.
Never anchor in coral, even with your dinghy anchor. An anchor can do a great deal of damage to a very fragile ecosystem that will take years to recover if it is to recover at all. Besides, sand holds so much better anyway.
In summer months and on into the early fall, or when there is no wind, you may wish to anchor a good distance from shore to keep away from the relentless biting insects. Cays with a lot of vegetation or mangroves will have a higher concentration of biting insects.
Proper anchoring etiquette should by practiced at all times. For instance, if the anchorage is wide and roomy and only one boat is at anchor, do not anchor right on top of them, give your neighbor a little breathing room and some solitude. You would probably appreciate the same consideration should the situation be reversed. Cruisers often exhibit a herding instinct where they seek the comfort of other nearby cruisers, anchoring much too close at times. Many boaters, after a long, hard day in rough seas or bad weather, anxiously await the peace and tranquility of a calm anchorage. The last thing they want is noise and wake. If you have a dog aboard that loves to bark, be considerate of your neighbors who do not wish to hear him. They do have that right. Jet skis can be a lot of fun, but only when you are astride one. Many cruisers have little tolerance for the incessant buzzing back and forth of high speed jet skis. It is a good show of manners to slowly leave the anchorage where you can have your high speed fun and games and not disturb anyone. The same can be said of water skiing which is prohibited within 200’ of the shoreline in The Bahamas unless the skier is approaching or leaving the shore at a speed of 3 knots or less. If at all possible, try not to run your generators at sunset or after dark. At sunset, many cruisers are sitting in their cockpits enjoying cocktails and watching the sun go down and do not want a generator disturbing their soft conversations. Courtesy shown is usually courtesy returned.
Clothing
If you are heading to the Bahamas or the Turks and Caicos Islands you will enter a tropical climate where the theme for clothing is light. You will most likely live in shorts and T-shirts (if that much). Long pants and sturdy, comfortable shoes are preferred when hiking for protection from the bush and the rugged terrain. Long sleeved shirts (or old cotton pajamas) and wide brimmed hats are important in keeping the sun off you. Polarized sunglasses (helpful for piloting) and suntan lotion (suntan oil tends to leave a long lasting greasy smear all over everything) should be included in your gear. In winter months it is advisable to bring something warm to wear, especially in the evenings. Long pants and sweaters are usually adequate and a light jacket would be a good idea as some frontal passages will occasionally drop the temperature to 60° F.
It is important that men and women dress appropriately when entering settlements. Skimpy bathing suits for men as well as women are excellent for the beach or boat but in town they are not apropos. Men should wear shirts in town as some local inhabitants are quick to remind you to cover up. Remember, you are a visitor here and that entails a certain responsibility.
Currency
The legally acceptable currency of The Bahamas is the Bahamian dollar whose value is on par with the American dollar. American money is readily acceptable throughout the islands at all stores, marinas, and hotels. Bahamian coins come in 1¢, 5¢, 10¢, and 25¢ denomination while Bahamian paper money comes in $.50, $1, $3, (yes, a three dollar bill), $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100 denominations.
Customs and Immigration
The Bahamas - Ports of Entry
ABACO: Grand Cay, Green Turtle Cay, Marsh Harbour, Spanish Cay, Treasure Cay
ANDROS: Congo Town, Fresh Creek, Mangrove Cay, Morgan’s Bluff
BERRY ISLANDS: Chub Cay, Great Harbour Cay
NORTH BIMINI: Alice Town (any marina)
SOUTH BIMINI: Bimini Sands Marina
CAT CAY: Cat Cay Marina
CAT ISLAND: Smith’s Bay, New Bight, Airport
ELEUTHERA: Governor’s Harbour, Harbour Island, Rock Sound, Spanish Wells, Cape Eleuthera
EXUMAL: Emerald Bay Marina, George Town
GRAND BAHAMA: Freeport Harbour, Port Lucaya (Port Lucaya Marina, Lucayan Marina Village, Sunrise Marina, Xanadu Marina, West End (marina)
INAGUA: Matthew Town
LONG ISLAND: Stella Maris, Flying Fish Marina
NEW PROVIDENCE: Nassau (any marina), Lyford Cay Marina
MAYAGUANA: Abraham’s Bay
RAGGED ISLAND: Duncan Town
SAN SALVADOR: Cockburn Town
All vessels entering Bahamian waters must clear in with Customs and Immigration officials at the nearest Port of Entry shown above. Failure to report within 24 hours may subject you to a penalty and make you liable for confiscation and forfeiture of your vessel. When approaching your selected port of entry be sure to fly your yellow Q
flag. Tie up to a dock or marina and await the officials if directed. In places like Bimini (where the dockmasters will usually have the necessary forms for you) or Green Turtle Cay, only the captain of the vessel may go ashore to arrange clearance and no other shore contact is permitted until pratique is granted. In some places, such as Nassau, Customs will actually come aboard your vessel. Some of the marinas that you use may levy a charge for using their dock, Cat Cay and Chub Cay in particular. If any marina does not charge you, good manners suggest that you at least make a fuel purchase. Most southbound vessels usually clear in long before reaching the outer islands while those northbound skippers have a choice of ports of entry.
The Customs and Immigration fee structure has changed considerably over the last decade and it has caused a tremendous amount of contention in