Chesapeake Bay to Florida Cruising Guide, 7th edition Cape May, NJ to Fernandina Beach, FL Detailed Coverage of the Intracoastal Waterway

By Maptech

The Embassy Cruising Guide Chesapeake Bay to Florida is a must for recreational boaters traveling the waters of Delaware Bay, Chesapeake Bay and the Intracoastal Waterway from Norfolk, VA to the Florida border.

• Language: English
• Publisher: MapTech
• Release date: Mar 4, 2020
• ISBN: 9780743612005

Book preview

Delaware Bay to C&D Canal and the Atlantic Route

Delaware may be one of the smallest states in the U.S., but the Delaware River and Bay are kind of a big deal as the second-busiest shipping channel in the nation. The largest receiving center for steel, paper and meat products, this freshwater port system sees a lot of traffic, including 70 percent of the oil shipped to the East Coast. With cargo ships and tankers, tugs hauling or pushing barges, and ferries that scuttle between Lewes and Cape May, you’ll encounter tons of waterborne stuff to gawk at (and avoid).

While there may always be something of interest to see here, it’s wise to do it during the best of weather. Wide open and bracketed with low, reedy shores, Delaware Bay isn’t the place to run to escape a storm. With a broad mouth and a 50-mile northwest fetch that can create a mix-master effect, especially when the wind collides with an incoming current, the lower bay can be more than bouncy. But when the weather is good, it’s a pleasure to navigate.

The Ocean City Fishing Pier is a landmark about a quarter-mile north of the inlet.

If you wish to skip the Delaware Bay and River and the Canal, but still want to get into Chesapeake Bay, there is an outside passage that runs south from Cape May to Cape Charles and Cape Henry in Virginia. We discuss this route in detail later in this chapter.

Charts

For the Delaware Bay and C&D Canal, use Maptech ChartKit Region 4, Pages 6 to 8B; and NOAA charts 12277 (1:20,000), 12304 (1:80,000), and 12311 and 12312 (1:40,000). For the Atlantic route, use ChartKit Region 4, Pages 68 to 77; and NOAA charts 12200 (1:420,000), 12210, 12211 and 12214 (1:80,000), 12216 (1:40,000), and 12221 (1:80,000).

Navigation and Anchorages

When it is good, Delaware Bay can very good, but when the weather is bad, it can be awful. Strong currents slapping up against even stronger winds can kick up a nasty chop, and there are few havens available.

However, on calm days, the ride north may be interspersed with sightings of gannets, pelicans, porpoise and other wildlife in addition to the aforementioned commercial vessels. Bigstone is the local name for the commercial tanker anchorage area on the western side of the shipping channel opposite Brandywine Shoal Light Fl 10s 60ft 13M HORN (March 15 to Dec. 15). Here, tankers are lightered (partial loads are drawn off into barges) to enable the ships to clear the 40-foot-deep channel to the refineries.

The well-marked, main shipping channel runs in a north-northwest direction through the center of the bay. Be aware that the commercial traffic needs the dredged channel. Whenever possible, stay outside of it and bear in mind that currents are strong and can easily set you off course if you’re not paying close attention.

NOTE: The currents in Delaware Bay can run up to 4 knots, higher during the ebb in the spring. To make the best time, start your trip up the bay an hour before the incoming current begins.

Cape May to the C&D Canal

Many of the cruisers in Delaware Bay are heading to — or coming from — the C&D Canal. From New Jersey’s Atlantic coast, you have two options to begin your passage through Delaware Bay to the C&D Canal.

The calmest, shortest and most-popular route is through the Cape May Canal, which has a controlling depth of 4 feet and a 55-foot, fixed bridge that sets the vertical clearance limit. Refer to the Cape May chapter for details on the Cape May Canal. From the Cape May Canal, set a northwest course for roughly 14 miles toward Miah Maull Shoal Light Oc 4s 59ft 10M HORN, east of Miah Maull Range in the main shipping channel.

You may also enter Delaware Bay at its rather heavily trafficked mouth. Use extreme care in rounding Cape May Point, which is marked by Fl 15s 165ft 22M. There are nearly a dozen shoals off this peninsula, and they change frequently. You may see some fishing boats rounding the cape inshore of Eph Shoal and Prissy Wicks Shoal — an area known as The Rips to locals. The fishermen know these waters well and can make The Rips look easy. The safest approach for the uninitiated is to give Cape May a wide berth, steering south of the shoals before turning northwest toward Brown Shoal Light (Fl 2.5s 23ft 7M) and the Brandywine Range of the main shipping channel. Thirteen miles to the northwest is the Miah Maull Range.

About 2.5 miles northwest alongside Miah Maull Range is an abandoned lighthouse that once marked the southern end of Cross Ledge. To the north, the lighthouse Elbow of Cross Ledge Iso 6s 61ft 16M HORN sits between Cross Ledge to the east and Joe Flogger Shoal to the west. Fish and fishermen congregate near the beacon.

The channel angles northward at the light and becomes the Elbow of Cross Ledge Range for about 3.5 miles before swinging northwest toward the start of Liston Range (F 176ft over Iso 6s 45ft over Fl 2.5s 21ft 5M), whose white range lights are very bright.

Continue along the edge of the main shipping channel as you leave the octagon-shaped Ship John Shoal Light Fl 5s 50ft 12M HORN (March 15 to Dec. 15) to the east. To the west is Bombay Hook Point Shoal off Bombay Hook Point, home to a 15,000-acre bird sanctuary. Stay along the main shipping channel to avoid Arnold Point Shoal, numerous oyster grounds (marked on the chart) and other obstructions, including Hope Creek Jetty, which is often submerged at high tide and is to the east of the main shipping channel.

To the north, the domes of the Salem Nuclear Power Plant, also called Artificial Island, are visible for miles. Stay clear of the security zone around the power plant. After Artificial Island, the shipping channel doglegs north through the Baker and Reedy Island ranges. Paralleling the western shore off the main shipping channel is the 3-mile-long Reedy Island Dike, a navigational hazard that is submerged and marked by lights and seasonal aids. To the north, keep clear of Reedy Island Bar; shoals extend north to the C&D canal’s southern breakwater.

The Chesapeake & Delaware Canal

The 14-mile-long C&D Canal opened in 1829 with a series of locks, but has undergone several major updates since. The locks are long gone and the canal now offers a minimum depth of 27 feet in a protected, 450-foot-wide ribbon of watery highway that you’ll share with shipping traffic.

Traffic controls located at Reedy Point in Delaware and Old Town Point Wharf in Maryland consist of a flashing green light when the canal is open and a flashing red light when it is closed. The traffic dispatcher at Chesapeake City monitors VHF channel 16 and channel 13 on a 24-hour basis.

In the canal, there are three primary rules: no sailing — your vessel must be under power; no anchoring; and you must relinquish the right-of-way to deeper draft vessels, which have limited maneuvering ability. In addition, vessels traveling with the current have the right of way.

Canal Dispatch recommends staying to the starboard side of the channel, a help to smaller craft since the current in the center runs as fast as 4 knots. High and low waters in the Delaware River at the canal’s east end are about 2 hours later than in Elk River at the western terminus. The heights of high and low waters are greatly affected by the winds; northeast storms raise the level and westerly storms lower it. The flood sets eastward and the ebb westward.

You may not stop or anchor in the canal. Prompt action is required if your vessel is grounded, wrecked or damaged to prevent it from being an obstruction to navigation. In such a situation, contact Canal Dispatch immediately.

Hancock Harbor Marina, foreground, is 3.5 miles up the Cohansey River, which is about 30 miles from Cape May and 20 miles from the C&D Canal.

The shortest vertical clearance beneath the five fixed bridges that cross the canal is 132 feet. The railroad (lift) bridge has only 45 feet of clearance when down, but it is normally open unless a train is passing through. The railroad bridgetender monitors VHF channel 13. More than 25,000 vessels, mostly commercial ships and tugs with tows, transit the canal annually, making it one of the busiest passages in the world. Two pilot-boat associations — one for Delaware Bay and River and the other for Maryland ports and the District of Columbia in Chesapeake Bay — have a common station on the north side of the canal in Chesapeake City. Delaware Bay and River pilots use VHF-FM channel 14, and the Maryland pilots use VHF–FM channel 11; both associations also use VHF-FM channel 13. Turn to the C&D Canal chapter for information about the various ports along this passage.

Eastern Delaware Bay

From Cape May into the Delaware River, you will generally find 6 feet or more of water east of the main shipping channel to Ben Davis Point, though there are several very shoal spots. Cross Ledge is among the hazards. You are safer heading toward the shipping channel and Ship John Shoal Light Fl 5s 50ft 12M HORN (March 15 to Dec. 15) to avoid the shoals.

Today, commercial fishing and party boats work out of the Maurice River, 13 miles up the bay. Mauricetown, located several miles up the switchback river, is a small Colonial-era hamlet. Millville, once the epicenter of America’s glass industry, lies farther upriver and boasts the Wheaton Arts and Cultural Center (856-825-6800), which houses the most comprehensive collection of glass and ceramics produced in the country.

Keep an eye on your depth sounder as you cross Egg Island Flats to enter the Maurice River. East Point Light Iso 6s 43ft 7M to the east of the river is a good point of reference. The channel begins between R N 2 and G 3 Fl G 4s. Maurice River Cove is shallow, but local boaters report 5 feet of water in the channel at the mouth. During strong northwest winds, depths here can be less than 3 feet. The tidal range is 5 to 6 feet. There is a building sandbar off East Point; stick to the channel, which is well marked up to Millville, 21 miles upriver. There is a fixed bridge with 25 feet of vertical clearance at Mauricetown, 11 miles from the river’s entrance.

Anchor outside of the river’s channel or just outside the entrance in Maurice River Cove wherever you can find good depths. Be prepared for the greenhead flies that inhabit the marsh from June into September.

Nantuxent Cove is a suitable anchorage in anything but a south wind. Depths vary from 2 feet to 24 feet in the cove. Money Island Marina (856-447-3576) and Sundog Marina (856-447-3992) sell gas inside Nantuxent Creek.

Sundog Marina, foreground, is 4.5 miles up the winding Nantuxent Creek.

Six miles to the north of Nantuxent Cove, the Cohansey River is full of sharp bends and switchbacks. There is a dredged cut at its entrance, which is marked by two lights that are visible for miles. Be on the lookout for fish traps on the approach, and while you head upriver, see if you can spot any bald eagles in the trees. At peak ebb and flood, the current runs hard in the river.

Quaint Greenwich, about 3.5 miles up the Cohansey River, was established in 1684 and was both the site of a Revolutionary Era tea party protest and a critical link in the Underground Railroad. According to legend, Captain Kidd buried some of his booty up here, possibly near the historic town of Bridgeton.

In Greenwich, up the Cohansey River, the welcoming Hancock Harbor Marina (856-455-2610) has gas and diesel fuel, transient slips and an on-site restaurant, the Bait Box. Have a sundowner at the outside bar, where guests are often entertained by live music and a game of cornhole.

Many captains will anchor in Cohansey Cove near the little island, but it’s unmarked and you’ll contend with currents; stay east of the shallows off the island’s southern tip, and mind your depth sounder. There is 36 feet of water inside the mouth of the river, but if you anchor here, you may spin a bit in the current and there are many crab pots around. It’s better to anchor about a half-mile beyond Greenwich. As with all of the South Jersey marsh areas, greenhead flies are prevalent, incessant and a nuisance.

Less than 3 miles west of Cape Henlopen’s tip, Roosevelt Inlet is the passage to the facilities in Lewes.

North and west of Sinnickson Landing there is some deep water outside the channel for anchoring.

Southern and Western Delaware Bay

Cape Henlopen is tucked behind Harbor of Refuge, an outer, mile-plus-long breakwater on the southwest lip of Delaware Bay. Harbor of Refuge Light Fl 10s 72ft 16M HORN sits on the southern end of this breakwater while Fl G 4s 40ft 7M 1 marks its northern end. The safest way to squeeze behind it is to pass between the southern end of the jetty and the tip of Cape Henlopen, where there is deep water.

Breakwater Harbor, which is protected from the north and east. There is ample room for anchoring in sand, and it’s a peaceful spot to sit for a spell while entering or leaving Delaware Bay.

Pilot boats frequently transit this area. The Lewes-Cape May ferries run out of the docks by the western breakwater extending from the southern shore. Just past the piers to the east, the water shoals up quickly.

To the west of Breakwater Harbor and the ferry landing along the southern shore is Lewes Beach, one of a string of resorts in lower Delaware. Roosevelt Inlet, to the northwest of the beach, is the north entrance to the Lewes and Rehoboth Canal. The shallow canal extends 8 miles to Rehoboth Bay and cuts through the town of Lewes. Technically, you could run an inside passage from here all the way to Cape Charles, Va.; however, the farther south you go, the channels are no longer maintained and some dry at low tide.

Dutch settlers founded Lewes in 1631 as Zwaanendael; a museum by that name details the area’s early history. This cozy seaside town is home to several Delaware Bay Pilots, the Coast Guard, as well as shops, artists’ studios and restaurants. Cruisers also can find fuel, repairs and supplies.

Enter Roosevelt Inlet between Fl G 4s 18ft 6M 1R and Fl R 4s 18ft 6M 2 and follow the dredged channel, which has a minimum controlling depth of just over 4 feet to the turning basin. Coming in, there is a lighted range, and you can line up on the windmill at the University of Delaware’s College of Earth, Ocean, and Environment. The basin of its Marine Operations, which include several research vessels, is directly opposite the inlet. Steer southeast for the canal and Lewes. To the northwest is the Broadkill River, a 13-milelong estuary that is perfect for kayaks and canoes.

A great option for visiting boaters is the City of Lewes Canalfront Marina & City Docks (302-644-1869), adjacent to a beautiful park. There is a playground for kids, basketball and tennis courts, and other sports fields. Be sure to check out the adjacent Lightship Overfalls, built in 1938. Restaurants and shops abound and are an easy walk from the city’s transient docks, which can take boats up to 110 feet from April through November. You’ll have water, electric and Wi-Fi at the docks. Gas and diesel are available across the canal at Lewes Harbour Marina (302-645-6227). The city dockmaster is an excellent source of local knowledge about navigating in the canal; call before making your approach.

NOTE: The depth of the canal from Lewes to Rehoboth Bay drops to 2 feet or less in some places. The canal is no longer maintained by the Corps of Engineers. In Rehoboth Beach, there is a bascule bridge (vertical clearance: 16 feet) followed by an overhead power line with vertical clearance of 55 feet, followed by a fixed bridge that restricts vertical clearance to 35 feet.

If you’re continuing up the western shore of Delaware Bay, the entrance to the Mispillion River is marked by Fl R 4s 25ft 6M 2 and Fl G 4s 25ft 5M 1M, about 12 miles northwest of Cape Henlopen. This narrow, winding river can be valuable in an emergency but tricky to enter. Don’t try it at low tide; at high tide, the jetties may be submerged. Shoals loom just outside of the channel. Inside you’ll find Cedar Creek Marina (302-422-2040), which has gas, marine store, rest-rooms, showers and snacks.

Bowers Beach, a popular Delaware fishing port at the mouth of the Murderkill River, lies farther north on Delaware Bay’s western shore about 20 miles from Cape Henlopen. There’s a strong current, but you can tie up there in an emergency. Fl G 4s 15ft 4M 1 marks the entrance. The controlling depth is 3 feet.

In very calm, settled weather, you may anchor anywhere to the north along the Delaware shore to the canal, but there are no facilities. There is excellent holding behind the Reedy Island Dike, but very strong currents. Many boats use this as a staging area while waiting for a favorable tide change for passage up or down Delaware Bay. Come in between G 1 and Q R 15ft 3M 2 north of the dike and south of Reedy Island. There is a boat ramp at Augustine Beach across the way where you can walk the dog.

The Delaware River

There is considerable commercial traffic in the area of the C&D Canal and at the channel junction east of Reedy Point. If you want to check out nearby Delaware City, just north of the C&D Canal, scoot over to the west side of the main shipping channel. You can slide through the anchorage where commercial vessels wait to get into the refinery at Delaware City.

Head northwest up Bulkhead Shoal Channel, which begins east of RG CD Fl (2+1) R 6s. Stay just outside the channel to the southwest. The channel is deep, but don’t attempt to cross the shoal — you’re likely to run aground near Pea Patch Island, which is dominated by Fort Delaware. Watch for the state-run ferries that take visitors to and from Fort Delaware from April to September. You may not land your vessel or dinghy on Pea Patch Island. The refinery is strictly off-limits.

Well-protected Delaware City Marina (302-834-4172) is inside the Delaware City Branch Channel, which runs southwest of the Bulkhead Shoal Channel. Transient slips to 110 feet LOA and gas and diesel fuel are among the many offerings inside here. For more details about Delaware City turn to the C&D Canal chapter.

If your itinerary includes New Castle, Wilmington or Philadelphia, which is 86 miles north of the mouth of the Delaware Bay, continue alongside the main channel up the Delaware River. Don’t stray too close to shore as it shoals in some places rather drastically.

A continuous string of ranges leads you upriver. Beginning east of the C&D Canal, pick up New Castle Range (F G 110ft over Iso G 2s 56ft) and leave Fort Delaware and Pea Patch Island Light well to port. North of Pea Patch Island, Bulkhead Shoal and a submerged dike border the western edge of the main shipping channel.

After passing west of Fort Mott and Goose Island Flats, and under the overhead power cables, line up the lights of the Bulkhead Bar Range. There are three red buoys that lead you around that turn; stay just outside them. To the northeast, pick up the Deepwater Point Range, which will take you past historic New Castle on the western shore.

The channel takes you beneath the Delaware Memorial Fixed Bridges (vertical clearance: 188 feet at the center) and between Pigeon Point to the west and Deepwater Point to the east. A mile north, the Christina River, which branches west, leads to Wilmington, whose sprawling marine terminal is usually filled with car carriers and freighters. There are some good riverside restaurants up here, but there is limited dockage.

From Wilmington north, the shore lights begin to compete with the navigation lights. It’s better to do it all in daylight. North of the Christina River near Wilmington, the shipping channel swings to the west side of the Delaware River to avoid the Cherry Island Flats. The preferred route for recreational traffic is to the east of the flats, which is marked. Or, stay just outside the main shipping channel to the west, though you’ll need to keep a sharp lookout for commercial traffic. Where Bellevue Range meets the Marcus Hook Range, there’s good water outside the channel but don’t stray too far, as Marcus Hook Bar lies to the east.

After you pick up Chester Range, north of Raccoon Creek on the southeastern shore, you’ll pass beneath the Commodore Barry Fixed Bridge (vertical clearance: 190 feet at center). Just upriver, the city of Chester sits on the northwest shore, with Chester Island to the south and east. Stay very close to the channel here.

North of Chester Island, the channel begins to swing east as the Philadelphia International Airport comes into view directly off your bow. Just west of the airport is Essington and Darby Creek, which are home to a number of marinas. There is a mooring field north of Little Tinicum Island off the yacht and boat clubs at Essington.

At Bramell Point on the New Jersey side, the channel angles slightly northeast past Billingsport on the south shore. After the Walt Whitman Fixed Bridge (vertical clearance: 150 feet at center), Penns Landing is 2.5 miles up ahead to port and has lots going on. Several marinas provide easy access to Philadelphia and its neighboring city across the river, Camden, N.J. Refer to the Philadelphia and Camden chapter for more information.

Atlantic Ocean Route

If you decide to bypass Delaware Bay and River to head into the Chesapeake Bay at its southern entrance, you can skate down the coast along the Delaware, Maryland and Virginia (Delmarva) shore. It can be fun, even in a northwest or westerly blow, once you’re past the open mouth of Delaware Bay and in the lee of the shores. But, this route can be miserable in strong easterly winds.

There are inlets that offer convenient fuel and dockage along the Atlantic Ocean passage, but they are tough to get into in strong easterlies. A long duration of an easterly wind will increase the water in the inlets and bays on the outside route, while a stretch of westerlies will have the opposite effect.

The outside route south can be completed in one long passage (about 120 miles) or several legs, where the first destination is usually Indian River. From Cape May, it is approximately 22 miles to the Indian River Inlet, which is about 15 miles from the anchorage inside Cape Henlopen.

From Cape Henlopen, nasty Hen and Chickens Shoal presents an immediate obstacle on the route south. After passing the shoal, stay a mile to 2 miles off the beach all the way south; the farther out, the better, especially if you’re making the long run to Cape Charles and Norfolk.

From Cape May, be careful crossing the mouth of the Delaware Bay. There are several traffic separation schemes that provide passage for deep-draft commercial vessels into and out of the Bay. Although the ships may appear distant, most are clocking along briskly. Be sure to stay out of traffic lanes and avoid the pilot boarding and precautionary areas (both are clearly marked on the NOAA charts). Pass this area at right angles to the flow of traffic and in a timely manner.

After passing Hen and Chickens Shoal, you may run parallel to the shore, about a half-mile off of it, until the entrance to Indian River Inlet at G 1 Fl G 2.5s. Be aware that wind against the tide will cause issues navigating the inlet. The fixed bridge just inside the inlet has a vertical clearance of 45 feet at mean high tide. Very strong currents run through the narrow passage under the bridge.

Inside the inlet to the north is the welcoming Indian River Marina (302-227-3071) at Delaware Seashore State Park. Gas and diesel fuel and transient slips are available here as well as showers, laundry facilities and a ship’s store. The dockside restaurant welcomes well-trained dogs. Refer to the Indian River Inlet chapter for more details.

South of the Indian River Inlet, the shoals reach increasingly farther off the low shores. It’s about 20 miles south to the next significant harbor of refuge. Home to more than a dozen marinas, Ocean City is a major tourist destination. The inlet’s southern jetty is submerged and shoaling inside are obstacles navigating into this harbor. Refer to the Ocean City chapter for more information.

Forty miles south of Ocean City, Chincoteague Inlet has entrance buoys that are frequently changed because the channel is fluid. Shoals extend quite far from the southern end of Assateague Island to the east and south.

Best known for its wild ponies, Chincoteague is well worth a visit if you can swing it. Wait for calm weather and seek local knowledge. Resident fishermen say you can expect 5 feet of water through the inlet, but don’t be surprised to see a 2-foot spot on your way inside. Swift currents and breakers add to the distractions here. Once inside, deeper waters will calm your nerves.

There are areas to anchor outside the marked channel, such as in Black Narrows, which has depths greater than 8 feet but strong currents.

If you are continuing north into Chincoteague Bay, the drawbridge to the island opens every 90 minutes from 6 a.m. to midnight. On the last consecutive Wednesday and Thursday in July, the drawbridge will not open for the annual Chincoteague Pony Swim, a nearly century-old tradition where the animals are moved from Assateague Island to Chincoteague so that foals can be auctioned. The auction keeps the herd from growing too large and it is also a fundraiser for the volunteer fire department. The day after the auction, the animals make the return swim back to Assateague. The roundup and parades of the wild ponies attract thousands. A carnival and other activities complement the event.

Adjacent to and southwest of Chincoteague Inlet is Wallops Island, home to the Mid-Atlantic Regional Spaceport, appropriately shortened to MARS. Operated by the Commonwealth under the Virginia Commercial Space Flight Authority (VCSFA), MARS is one of only four U.S. spaceports licensed to launch to orbit. Its towers and facilities alongside the beach are shown on NOAA chart 12210 and are about 2 miles south of the inlet. The program office for NASA’s soundings rockets — suborbital launch vehicles — is based at Wallops. The expendable Antares, a resupply vessel to the International Space Station, takes off from here.

When traveling in the Wallops Island area, call 757-824-1685 for notices to mariners, which are also communicated via Wallops Plot on VHF channel 12 (VHF channel 22 as a backup). Mission updates and completion will be noted on the Wallops launch status line at 757-824-2050. The visitor center (757-824-1344) at NASA Wallops is located on Route 175, about 5 miles west of Chincoteague, and admission is free.

You could anchor off the channels inside Wachapreague Inlet, but be ready for wakes from the passing fishing vessels. You’ll definitely want to use an anchor light.

To the south, we do not recommend Quinby Inlet, Great Machipongo Inlet or Sand Shoal Inlet, which have similar characteristics to Wachapreague and facilities are scarce.

Cape May

Superyacht Destination

Picturesque Cape May, the oldest seaside resort in the nation, is like several delightful destinations all mashed into one. Parts echo Pat Conroy’s reedy Carolina coast. Others resemble the salt marshes of wind-swept Martha’s Vineyard minus the celebrities, while the commercial fishing boats that nuzzle up to piers along the harbor’s south side make it look like a mini-New Bedford. And it all started because of its shifting shoals.

When Henry Hudson’s vessel ran aground in 1609 on one such shoal, he discovered the Cape’s beauty. Not long after, whalers of various nationalities were launching open boats off the beach to chase the migrating whales. By 1690, English colonists had settled the town.

There’s a variety of vibrant Victorians with verandas in the Historic District.

The Victorians ushered in a building boom. Back in the 18th century, it was the fashionable escape from summer in the city (and the periodic yellow fever epidemics) for Philadelphians. At the bottom of New Jersey where the Delaware Bay meets the Atlantic, Cape May looks from the water much as it must have 200 years ago — a swath of white sand edged by low-rise homes. Congress Hall, a mammoth canary-yellow hotel built in 1816, still presides like a dowager queen over the beach.

Yet long before Hudson’s uneasy arrival and before urban summer tourists started coming, the Lenni-Lenape tribes who lived here reveled in the Cape’s plentiful natural resources. Cape May is a hub for migratory species of many kinds.

Right whales regularly travel through these waters, prompting the U.S. Coast Guard to set speed limits. Porpoises frolic not far offshore, and it’s a bird-watching paradise. The sandpiper-like red knot, which migrates 9,300 miles from the Arctic to Tierra del Fuego, stops to refuel on the eggs of the horseshoe crabs that spawn here. The crabs, like living fossils, crawl ashore during the full moons of late spring. While they and their migration patterns are unchanged since prehistoric times, the crabs have been more recently under siege from fishermen, who use them as bait, and pharmaceutical companies, which use the crabs’ blue blood in research and testing.

Victorian charm predominates the Cape May scene. The shady streets are lined with painted ladies — gingerbread-trimmed houses adorned in colors that range from festive to flamboyant. Many of these homes are also B&Bs, so visitors can relax on their inviting porches or enjoy their bloom-filled gardens. Despite its centuries-gone-by architecture and warm, small-town feel, Cape May boasts modern amenities and plenty of activities for visitors of all ages, which makes it a perfect stopover for cruisers.

Things to See and Do

Are you a connoisseur of museums? A cycler? A golf pro? An adventurer? No problem. There’s no shortage of activities in Cape May, whether you’re a foodie (or seafoodie), an avid birder, or a fan of the outdoors, there’s something for everyone, even oddities like an alpaca farm. And, of course, the sprawling, gorgeous beaches.

The Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts & Humanities (609-884-5404; www.capemaymac.org) is your source for sightseeing. It offers tickets to an array of events including a self-guided bike tour (they sell a booklet), and tours of the Emlen Physick Estate, a grand manse with a lovely garden built in 1879 by Philadelphia architect Frank Furness. The Ghosts of Cape May trolley tour explores the paranormal findings of writer Craig McManus. There are others, too — a self-guided lighthouse tour, murder-mystery dinners, teas, music, festivals and more.

Step back in time and imagine the horse-drawn trek from Philadelphia in the 18th century with a buggy tour from Cape May Carriage Company (609-884-4466). Make reservations that day at the corner of Ocean and Washington streets; they don’t take phone reservations.

Military history buffs love the Naval Air Station Wildwood Aviation Museum (609-886-8787). (The Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts does discounted combo tours with them.) Built in 1942, the 90,000-square-foot wooden hangar also has 26 interactive displays. Also worth a visit are the Forgotten Warriors Vietnam Museum (609-374-2987; call ahead — hours are limited), and the refurbished World War II Lookout Tower at Cape May Point.

Get around town by bicycle or take the whole crew aboard a four-wheeled, multi-passenger surrey. There are several places to rent a bike, including Shields Bike Service (609-898-1818). You can also play miniature golf, shop for antiques, or browse the independent shops at the pedestrian-friendly Washington Street Mall.

Prefer to stay on the water? Paddle around on a guided kayak tour available through Miss Chris Marina (609-884-3351). Nearby, the Cape May Whale Watcher (609-884-5445) offers whale and dolphin cruises (guaranteed marine mammal sighting) as well as a prime rib dinner cruise and Friday evening wine tasting cruises.

Cape May is well-known for its birds, both indigenous and migratory, whose numbers explode during horseshoe crab mating season in the late spring. Visit the Cape May Bird Observatory’s Northwood Center (609-400-3868) on East Lake Drive. Climb the 199 steps of the 157-foot-high Cape May Point Lighthouse (609-224-6066), built in 1859, for a workout and a great view of the area.

Historic Cold Spring Village (609-898-2300), a short ride away, brings the past to life among 22 acres of historic 19thcentury buildings, including a country store and bakery. Leashed dogs are welcome. Interpreters portray blacksmiths, schoolmarms, innkeepers and homemakers. The Cape May County Bike Paths will take you right to the village.

If the kids are still full of energy, get a lift up to Wildwood where the atmosphere jumps from the 1800s to the 1950s with doo-wop style motels and boardwalk amusements stretching for miles. Morey’s Piers (609-729-3700) is the king of beachside entertainment with seven roller coasters twisting, turning, and dipping above all manner of other whirling rides.

For an evening’s entertainment, take in a play at the Robert Shackleton Playhouse (609-884-1341), home of the Cape May Stage in downtown. Wind down your evening with a sunset stroll along the beachside promenade, where you can make pit stops for candy, fudge or ice cream.

If you time your visit right, you can enjoy The MidAtlantic, a huge fishing tournament held in mid-August at nearby Canyon Club Resort Marina (609-884-0199). Nearly $3 million in prizes is the real bait for entrants in this derby.

Restaurants and Provisions

Aside from the cultural attractions and the beauty of the land itself, Cape May boasts a bevy of spectacular restaurants — a real food lover’s paradise. It’s not a dry town, but many eateries are BYOB due to local ordinances. Before you’re seated, ask if the restaurant you’ve chosen has a liquor license; if not, head to the corner of Jackson and Lafayette to Collier’s Liquor Store (609-884-8488).

Start near your slip at South Jersey Marina at the friendly, reasonably priced Salt Water Café (609-884-2403). Their breakfast choices run the gamut from hearty omelets to fresh fruit. Soups, salads and sandwiches are up for lunch. Generous portions usually mean a doggie bag. Speaking of Fido, your pooch is welcome to dine with you on the deck.

It’s about 1.5 miles from the inlet, background, to the marinas across the harbor.

The Lobster House (609-884-8296), a Cape May institution since 1922, sprawls along Fisherman’s Wharf adjacent to Utsch’s. It has several options, including a formal inside dining room, a covered deck and an awning-shaded seating area on the schooner American. There is also great carryout with ready-made meals perfect for boaters on the go.

Utsch’s Marina (609-884-2051) has just about everything a boater needs — marine store, tackle shop, boat brokerage, internet center, laundry facilities and lots more — it is a great place for transients to fill the galley. A large Wawa Food Market (1426 Texas Ave.; 609-884-6753) around the corner from South Jersey Marina makes provisioning easy. There’s a pharmacy on the edge of downtown, and a short cab ride up Route 9 will take you to shopping plazas with everything you might need.

Let the Mad Batter (609-884-5970) at the Carroll Villa Hotel on Jackson Street spoil you with honey almond granola with fruit or eggs benedict for breakfast, rustic pizza for lunch or crab cakes for dinner.

You might also pay a visit to Uncle Bill’s Family Restaurant (609-884-7199), a beloved local breakfast and lunch favorite. Grab a morning latte or other pick-me-ups at Coffee Tyme (609-435-5647).

Other highly recommended places to eat include Panico’s Bistro and Brick Oven Pizza (422 Broadway; 609-884-7170) in West Cape May; Westside Market (517 Broadway; 609-884-3061), an old-time deli and market with sandwiches, hoagies and a butcher shop, also in West Cape May; and the Blue Pig Tavern at Congress Hall (251 Beach Ave.; 609-884-8422), which serves casual breakfast, lunch or dinner at the one-of-a-kind resort. The charming Cold Spring Grange Restaurant (609-884-0114) boasts locally produced farm-to-table fare in a historic building.

Charts

Use Maptech ChartKit Region 3, Page 62, and ChartKit Region 4, Page 76; Maptech Waterproof Chartbook New Jersey Coast; Maptech Waterproof Chart 35; Also, NOAA charts 12214 (1:80,000), 12316 (1:40,000) and 12317 (1:10,000).

Tides and Currents

Use tide tables for Atlantic City. High tide at Cape May Harbor is 33 minutes later, while low tide is 19 minutes later. The mean tidal range is 4.5 feet.

Navigation and Anchorages

Cape May Inlet is one of the safest inlets along the New Jersey Coast. Pick up R 2CM Fl R 2.5s southeast of the inlet and head through the jetties between Fl R 4s 25ft 6M 4 and Fl G 4s 38ft 5M 5. You can also use the range lights to guide you in. While the inlet is deep and protected by breakwaters, occasionally the wind and tide conspire to produce the inlet effect, a disturbing chop in the area around the breakwaters, reaching out a considerable distance.

Once you’re past Sewell Point, the inlet’s channel intersects the ICW at Q R 13ft 5M 4. Leave this mark to the north then head west for Cape May Harbor.

Cape May Harbor is an important port for those heading to Delaware Bay and for those coming in from sea. It’s the last convenient refueling and provisioning stop until the Chesapeake & Delaware (C&D) Canal and an excellent refuge during poor weather. The harbor itself is fairly shallow, so stick to the channel.

You can anchor south of the channel, east and west of the Coast Guard Station, but keep an eye on your depth sounder and be sure your anchor is well dug in. The holding can get dicey when the wind pipes up.

Excellent facilities, including transient-friendly Utsch’s Marina (609-884-2051) and Canyon Club Resort Marina (609-884-0199) can be found near the Cape May Canal, along the harbor’s western shore. Both have gas and diesel fuel, repair services, hundreds of slips and can accommodate superyachts. Utsch’s has an on-site restaurant among its many amenities. The swimming pool at Canyon Club is a great place to swap fishing stories while taking a cool dip. Its ship’s store is stocked with charts and souvenirs.

Adjacent Schellenger Creek, at the head of the harbor, is home to South Jersey Marina (609-884-2400), which is the best bet for boats requiring a deeper draft. Enter the creek between G 1 and R 2 to the southeast of Utsch’s. A fairly swift current in the creek can make for challenging approaches to the dock. South Jersey Marina has gas and diesel and can handle superyachts up to 150 feet LOA. Marine supplies, ice and bait are also available here.

Cape May Canal

To avoid an offshore approach to Delaware Bay from the Atlantic, as well as numerous shoal areas off Cape May Point, the recommended route to Delaware Bay is through the Cape May Canal.

The Cape May Canal was dug during World War II as a place to escape from German U-boats, among other things. The minimum controlling depth is 4 feet and vessels with drafts in excess of 4 feet should wait for high tide and be on the lookout for shallow spots even within the marked channel. Vessels moving with the current have the right of way, except for small pleasure craft that must yield to larger commercial vessels. It is best to travel on a favorable tide, since the current can reach as much as 3 knots. During an ebb tide the current is going east, and during a flood the current goes west. Sailing is forbidden and anchoring is not allowed anywhere in the canal.

CAUTION: From a distance, there appear to be two passable openings in the railroad bridge. Use only the narrow, 50-foot-wide northern opening.

Entering the canal from Cape May Harbor, you’ll pass beneath a fixed bridge with 55 feet of vertical clearance. The railroad swing bridge is less than a mile farther along and is usually open.

A third bridge, fixed with 55 feet of vertical clearance, is west of the railroad bridge. At the western end of the canal, on the north bank, you’ll find the Cape May-Lewes Ferry. There is a 5-mph speed limit when passing the terminal. Expect to yield to the ferry coming and going.

From the Cape May Canal, a northwesterly course for roughly 14 miles will take you toward Miah Maull Shoal Light Oc 4s 59ft 10M HORN, east of Miah Maull Range in the main shipping channel in Delaware Bay. See the Delaware Bay to C&D Canal chapter for navigating farther north.

Superyacht Facilities

Canyon Club Resort Marina 609-884-0199

South Jersey Marina 609-884-2400

Utsch’s Marina 609-884-2051

Shoreside and Emergency Services

Airport: Atlantic City Int’l 609-645-7895

Trolley:

—Great American 609-884-5230

—Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts 609-884-5404

Tow Service:

—Sea Tow 800-4SEATOW/ 609-263-2222 or VHF 16

Transients are welcomed at South Jersey Marina, left, and Utsch’s Marina and Canyon Club Resort Marina, which bookend the canal bridge, background.

Philadelphia and Camden

The City of Brotherly Love — how can you not, well, love it? It gave us Ben Franklin, Betsy Ross, the Phillies and Eagles, Philly cheese steaks, Rocky Balboa and the Philadelphia Flower Show, sponsored by the oldest horticultural society in the nation. Not to mention plenty of yacht clubs. But outward appearances can be deceiving — and on first view, Philadelphia seems more like an industrial giant than a city of bright lights and entertainment as you thread upriver past power plants, refineries that run 24/7 and vast marine terminals. But it’s also a place where you can find an endless supply of terrific food and entertainment — with the eclectic individuality of small-town neighborhoods, peppered with some of our nation’s most notable history.

Founded by Quaker William Penn in 1682, Philadelphia was one of America’s first planned cities. Tree-lined streets are laid out in a logical order, so it’s easy to figure out where you are and how to get where you want to go. While Philly has sprawled way past its original boundaries, its roots as a walkable city remain.

Philadelphia Marine Center and Liberty Sailing Club, foreground, are north of the Benjamin Franklin Bridge, which was the world’s longest suspension bridge when it was built in 1926.

Ever since Penn stepped ashore clutching his coveted charter, Philadelphia has been a busy port. Fast-forward four centuries and you can see the results. Jets roar overhead to and from the international airport; onshore traffic thrums along the highways; oceangoing behemoths anchor off warehouse-topped piers; tug and barge traffic runs almost nonstop; and cargo ships and massive tankers come and go from the refineries that stand like fortresses along the shore.

Once you’ve tied up at Penn’s Landing, the welcoming face of Philadelphia becomes apparent. Cobbled streets and brick sidewalks start just beyond the riverside and lead you past 18th- and 19th-century homes to the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall and the Benjamin Franklin Museum. And don’t forget the Philadelphia Zoo, Adventure Aquarium, the National Museum of Jewish History, and neighborhoods from distinguished Society Hill to Pennsport and South Street, home of the spangled and bedazzled performing Mummers, to the shores of the modest Schuylkill (pronounced SKOOkuhl) River. Philly keeps one foot in its past, but it also strides into the future with world-class medical and research facilities and a wealth of universities. The result is a youthful, vibrant, artistic city with a deep appreciation of its history.

Things to See and Do

Since Penn first sailed up the Delaware River, the waterfront has been an integral part of city life. Once packed with counting houses and bristling with the spars of sailing ships, the 37-acre waterfront park is now home to the nonprofit Delaware River Waterfront Corporation (215-922-2386), which administers Penn’s Landing.

Neshaminy State Marina welcomes transients to its 350-slip facility in a park-like setting.

As many as 50 major events are held each year from Penn’s Landing, which is home to the Spanish-American warship Olympia, the World War II-era submarine Becuna and the barque Moshulu, a floating restaurant. All three are tied into the adjacent Independence Seaport Museum (215-413-8655). Inside the museum you’ll find a replica of Diligence, a 1790 topsail schooner. Penn’s Landing is also home to the barkentine Gazela, a three-masted wooden beauty built in 1883, and the 1902 tug Jupiter, which are maintained by the Philadelphia Ship Preservation Guild.

Popular South Street is an easy walk from the marinas and accessible by a land bridge (located south of Penn’s Landing) over Interstate 95. There you’ll find the Theatre of Living Arts (334 South St.; 215-922-1011). You’ll also find hardware stores, restaurants and more.

Parallel to South Street several blocks north, Market Street is one of America’s historic thoroughfares. Benjamin Franklin probably flew his kite near 10th and Market. It’s also a good place to access public transportation.

The bohemian neighborhood of Old City, which is full of small galleries, is centered on Market and extends west a few blocks until you reach Independence National Historical Park. This Revolutionary stretch includes the Liberty Bell Center, Independence Hall and more. The 18th-century Betsy Ross House and botanist John Bartram’s Garden are nearby. Bartram’s 45-acre homestead on the Schuylkill River is the country’s oldest surviving botanical garden.

Stop by the Independence Visitor Center (800-537-7676) in Independence Mall, located in the heart of the historic district at 6th and Market, for information and tickets for more than 60 tours and attractions in the region. Not far away, you can take a sightseeing trip aboard a double-decker bus, horse-drawn carriage or Victorian-style trolley with Philadelphia Trolley Works & ’76 Carriage Co. (215-389-8687).

At its mouth, the Schuylkill River is totally industrial with oil barges and tugs lining the shore. But a little farther upriver, you could easily find yourself alone among the trees and rolling greenery of Fairmont Park, the largest city-owned park in the world. You can walk, jog or bike along the delightful Schuylkill River Trail to enjoy views of some of the older installations, including the Schuylkill Navy, a collection of busy boathouses and rowing clubs, and the old waterworks behind the Philadelphia Museum of Art (215-763-8100), a magnificent Greek Revival-style structure that ranks among the Top 30 favorite buildings of the American Institute of Architects. From the museum’s front steps — known as the Rocky steps since Sylvester Stallone ran up and down them in the Rocky movies — you can get a great view of downtown Philly and glimpse the 36-foot-tall statue of William Penn standing watch over his creation atop City Hall.

Restaurants and Provisions

Meat eaters must have at least one cheese steak while in Philly, and the nearly-80-year-old Jim’s Steaks (215-747-6617) at 4th and South Street is a great place to get it. There is usually a line, but you can use the time to figure out what you want. Just tell them your chosen toppings; they assume you want a cheese steak sandwich. And yes, the rumor is true: Cheez Whiz, believe it or not, is the cheese of choice around here.

For breakfast or lunch, start at the Famous Fourth Street Delicatessen (215-922-3274), an institution since 1923 on 4th and Bainbridge right off South Street. It’s a great place for big appetites, since portions are huge. Or, have brunch at popular Honey’s Sit N Eat (215-925-1150), with two locations, one on 4th and another on South Street. Try the pulled pork benedict and potato latkes, then walk it off at Dickenson Square, a tree-shaded park with a jungle gym and benches.

To restock organically, Whole Foods (215-733-9788) is on South at 9th Street, several blocks from Penn’s Landing. For the colonial dining experience, try The City Tavern (138 S. 2nd St.; 215-413-1443) for duck sausage, braised rabbit or tavern lobster pie. They also have a children’s menu.

While the Philadelphia Breweries and Craft Beer Trail stretches way beyond the city limits, six locations are close enough to wet your whistle. Go to www.phillybrewtours.com for guided tours (with tastings, of course). The 2nd Story Brewing Co. (117 Chestnut St.; 267-314-5770) is just a couple blocks from Penn’s Landing and serves not only beer but braised, spicy pork fundido, cabbage cups, mussels and more.

Treat yourself to Buddakan (325 Chestnut St.; 215-574-9440), a few blocks from the waterfront. Featured in Bon Appetit, Buddakan boasts a lit-from-within communal dining table and pan-Asian cuisine. If you like seafood and beer, then head west on Market Street to Monk’s Café (264 S. 16th St.; 215-545-7005). Monk’s, the self-proclaimed Beer Heaven, claims to be able to convert any wine or liquor drinker to their Belgian brews.

On the waterfront about a mile south of Penn’s Landing, you’ll find Home Depot (215-218-0600) on South Columbia Boulevard. Locally owned Cohen & Company Hardware (215-922-3493) on East Passyunk Avenue, between 4th and 5th off South, is a great hometown hardware store offering the usual as well as oddities and friendly service.

Charts

Use Maptech ChartKit Region 4, Page 8B; NOAA charts 12312 (1:40,000), 12313 (1:15,000) and 12314 (1:20,000).

Tides and Currents

As with many estuaries on the Atlantic coast, the current in the Delaware is a function of a semidiurnal tide, meaning it usually has two highs and two lows during a 24-hour cycle. In the Delaware, the current can run between 2 and 3 knots (occasionally faster). Bear in mind that a flood tide will not only give you a boost, but it will boost the speed of the commercial vessels, which may be moving faster than they seem to be. The mean tidal range is 6.1 feet.

Navigation and Anchorages

Located on the busy Delaware River, Philadelphia is about 86 miles from the Delaware’s mouth at Cape May and about 35 miles north of the C&D Canal. Through its entire reach, the Delaware is roomy enough to wander about and still keep clear of other vessels, many of which will be of the large, commercial variety. The Delaware River’s main channel is well marked throughout, and in many places cruising outside the channel is not a problem provided you have a good idea of your position.

Approaching Philadelphia is relatively straightforward. The channel is well marked, and includes a series of ranges. See the introductory regional chapter, Delaware Bay to C&D Canal and the Atlantic Route, for detailed navigation information on getting upriver.

After you pass the Philadelphia International Airport, the Schuylkill River will be to your north, just before the old Navy Yard, which is now a commercial shipyard and industrial park. From the Schuylkill River, head east toward Horseshoe Bend. After clearing Horseshoe Shoal, Gloucester City will be to your east and the Walt Whitman Fixed Bridge (vertical clearance: 150 feet at center) will be dead ahead. It’s almost another 3 miles to Penn’s Landing Marina (215-923-9129) and the Benjamin Franklin Fixed Bridge (vertical clearance: 135 feet at center). Almost directly across from Penn’s Landing in Camden is the battleship USS New Jersey, which is adjacent to Wiggins Park Marina (856-541-7222), featuring spectacular views of Philadelphia’s skyline.

We don’t recommend anchoring in this area of the Delaware since it is a busy commercial port. If you need to stop for a break, some marinas might let you stay for an hour or so without charge. Depths within the river’s marinas vary — from 3 feet to 20 feet. See the Marine Facilities and Services tables earlier in this chapter make comparisons and to find a comfortable place for your vessel. Gas and diesel can be found downtown at the Philadelphia Marine Center (215-931-1000) and upriver at Dredge Harbor Boat Center (856-461-1194) or Riverside Marina (856-461-1077). If you’re coming for the Fourth of July, reserve a space well in advance at Pier 3 Marina (215-351-4101), where pyrotechnics are fired from a barge anchored off its breakwater.

The navigable portion of the Delaware River continues from the Ben Franklin Bridge for another 25 miles to Trenton, N.J. About midway along the passage on the Pennsylvania side is Croydon, where we recommend you turn your bow into the park-like setting of Neshaminy State Marina (215-826-1662). This facility at the mouth of Neshaminy Creek has 350 seasonal slips, a boat ramp, pumpout and winter onland storage. There are also hiking trails, picnic spots and Eagles Forest, a habitat developed by Philadelphia’s professional football organization.

Shoreside and Emergency Services

Airport: Philadelphia Int’l (PHL) 215-937-6937

Bus:

—NJ Transit 973-275-5555

—SEPTA 215-580-7800

Coast Guard: 911 or VHF 16

Rail: Amtrak/Northeast Corridor 800-872-7245

Subway: SEPTA 215-580-7800

Tow Service:

Sea Tow 800-4SEATOW or VHF 16

C&D Canal

Superyacht Destination

Running through the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal is a pleasure. Protected on virtually all sides, it meanders through grassy, riprapped shores and offers the recreational boater a variety of views along the way. In addition to fellow recreational boaters, you’ll likely encounter commercial traffic — tugs and barges, container vessels, freighters and