Embassy Cruising Guides: Long Island Sound to Cape May, NJ, 19th Edition

By Maptech

Embassy Long Island Sound to Cape May, NJ covers New York Harbor to Block Island, Long Island's South Shore, the Hudson River and New Jersey's coast from Raritan Bay to Cape May. This "local's bible" is packed with detailed listings for over 1,400 marinas, local navigation advice, aerial photos, and hundreds of GPS waypoints.

• Language: English
• Publisher: MapTech
• Release date: Jul 9, 2022
• ISBN: 9781545755402

Book preview

New York City Metro Area

It’s about 30 miles from Liberty Island to Port Chester Harbor as the crow flies. The variety of boating destinations can make them seem 30 times the distance apart.

Start with the Big Apple, the City That Never Sleeps — New York. First-timers find the harbor’s navigation nerve-wracking but endless rewards wait ashore. All the clichés you’ve heard about Manhattan are true, and you’ll remember your experiences here forever. When you leave, the traffic on the waterways is a breeze compared to driving the Cross Bronx Expressway.

As you navigate up the East River to Brooklyn, Queens and the Bronx, life on land changes in a New York minute. Seventy-five percent of the city’s nearly 9 million residents live in these three boroughs, and each neighborhood within seems entirely different than the one just a few blocks away. A perfect example is City Island, a major destination among navigators waiting for favorable currents at the East River’s Hell Gate (more on that later). Most people are surprised that City Island is part of the Bronx, because it resembles ports of call in southern New England. The dialect is the only discernible difference.

A symbol of freedom, the Statue of Liberty is a glorious site for all who sail into New York Harbor.

Beyond the city proper are the varied harbors of Westchester County on the Sound’s north side. From these relatively affluent ports, you have a wealth of shore-side attractions alongside high-end marinas with top-notch maintenance crews and easy access to supplies. Speaking of accessibility, from the docks here you’re a short walk to a Metro-North train station where you can head to the Bronx, Manhattan or Connecticut to the north. Whether it be rail, bus, taxi or other mode, public transportation is better here than anywhere.

Navigating to New York Harbor

From the Atlantic Ocean and Sandy Hook

Entering from seaward from the east and north, Ambrose Channel is the preferred channel to the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge and the Upper Bay. Keep in mind that this is a busy commercial channel. Shallow East Bank and Romer Shoal border both sides of Ambrose Channel in the Lower Bay. Deep-draft vessels need to hug the main channel more closely in this stretch as you swing to the north toward The Narrows.

From New Jersey and points south, the preferred route is Sandy Hook Channel, which commences at safe-water mark RW S Mo (A) WHIS. Continue northwest until reaching Sandy Hook Channel’s first bend near Sandy Hook Point, and depart from the channel to follow Swash Channel which lies between Sandy Hook Channel and Ambrose Channel. Avoid the shallows of Romer Shoal and Flynns Knoll just outside the channel. Main Ship Channel (aka Chapel Hill Channel) will guide you north into Ambrose Channel toward the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge, the gateway to the Upper Bay and New York Harbor. For more details, please refer to the next chapter, New York Harbor.

From Long Island Sound

The East River is the only route to New York Harbor and the Upper Bay approaching from Long Island Sound. Technically, the East River is a tidal strait, and it behaves like a hydraulic pump between New York’s Upper Bay and Long Island Sound. Currents here can reach upward of 5 knots, and the water can get choppy due to the river’s uneven coastline.

Execution Rocks, to the south of Larchmont and southeast of New Rochelle, marks your approach to the East River. To the west, City Island, located north of Great Neck, offers a convenient stopover if you’re waiting for a favorable tide. After passing Throgs Neck, you enter the East River proper.

A further push will bring you under the Bronx-Whitestone Bridge, past Westchester Creek to the north, then past College Point Reef and Flushing Bay to the south. Just beyond are busy LaGuardia Airport and the notorious Rikers Island jail.

Favor the north shore when passing North Brother Island to avoid commercial traffic entering the South Brother Island and Rikers Island channels. Once you’re past Wards Island, through the tidal race of Hell Gate, the Harlem River connects the East River with the Hudson, or, heading farther south, you’ll pass Roosevelt Island.

Stay west of Roosevelt Island to avoid the low lift bridge, and then pass under the Queensboro Bridge. Manhattan is to the west. You’ll pass beneath the Williamsburg, Manhattan and Brooklyn bridges if you’re en route to New York’s Upper Bay, The Narrows or the Hudson River. For more details, please turn to the next chapter, New York Harbor.

New York Harbor

Superyacht Destination

Dutch explorer and fur trader Adriaen Block overwintered on Manhattan after his first ship, the Tiger, burned in 1613. Block and his crew spent the snowy season looking for oak trees with which to build a new shallow-draft ship, the Onrust, for exploring the virgin territory to the east. In Dutch, onrust means restless. Four hundred years later, onrust is a great word for describing America’s most populous metropolis.

A melting pot both shoreside and seaward, New York’s potpourri of marine vessels include all-purpose tankers, barges and tugs, large tourist-filled excursion boats, cruise ships, kayakers, water taxis and ferries overstuffed with salty commuters, and raw pleasure boaters. Muddle that lot together and add Coast Guard and police vessels. Somehow, they all blend together well like a Bloody Mary.

Do not be intimidated by the sheer volume of all of these elements. If you follow the proper rules to navigation and keep an eye on the weather, the waters here are relatively smooth sailing. In addition, we have found that most marina operators are more than welcoming and are always ready to assist you as needed.

Come ashore on Manhattan, and you’re treated to a 24-hour smorgasbord. Keep in mind the Huey Lewis lyrics, New York, New York is everything they say and no place that I’d rather be. Where else can you do a half a million things all at a quarter to three? Even the Staten Island ferry operates 24 hours a day, seven days a week. (Psst: If someone tries to sell you a ticket on it, don’t buy it. The Staten Island ferry is free. Welcome to New York!)

A national treasure and an icon, the Statue of Liberty welcomes everyone to New York.

If this is your first time to the Big Apple, you may be overwhelmed. That is both OK and to be expected. Ingest it in small bites. Don’t be intimidated by others whose timing is based on the New York Minute; instead, pace yourself. You’ll find no other place like this in the world. Imperious New Yorkers will remind you of it whenever they can.

Your best way to respond to a boastful local is to tell them about all of the places you’ve been by water. Nearly 75 percent of city residents do not have a driver’s license, so you can imagine their reaction when you tell them about your captain’s courses and the trials of navigating the sea. Few have ever even been on a boat. Explain how you sailed for roughly 15 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, Long Island Sound or down the Hudson River just to get here. Mention Hell Gate. These things should impress. Follow that up by quizzing them about the best places to dine, drink, shop or tour. They will likely reciprocate authoritatively with strong local insight. Guess what? You may have a new friend — but don’t go tellin’ nobody! This is New York, after all, and reputations are at stake.

Spuyten Duyvil Creek separates Manhattan, right, from its only mainland neighborhood, Marble Hill.

Things to See and Do

Welcome to the City That Never Sleeps! In order for you to hit every item on your must-do list, you would have to forgo sleep. Our advice: don’t plan to cover all of New York in one visit. There is just too much to experience and see. Instead, arrive with a game plan that focuses on a few select attractions, and allow yourself time to wander and explore some of the city’s neighborhoods — either on your own or on a tour.

If you can steer a boat, you can easily navigate New York. More than 200 years ago, city commissioners established the original grid of 12 north-south avenues and 155 east-west streets that shapes most of Manhattan today. First Avenue begins near the East River and 12th Avenue near the Hudson River. The east-west dividing line is Fifth Avenue, and it is about seven avenues to a mile. First Street is in Lower Manhattan while 125th Street is in Harlem, or uptown, which also means north in directions. Thus, downtown is always south. It is about 20 street blocks to a mile.

Walking is easy here, although the cement takes a toll on your feet after several hours. Public transportation is excellent. Ferries, PATH trains and buses link the New Jersey marinas to Manhattan. The subways are fast, efficient and safe. Buses, while slower, go everywhere. The website for the Metropolitan Transit Authority (MTA) at www.mta.info has a helpful trip-planning link. Call 511 for more information. Taxis are plentiful (except at rush hour or when it rains), but the metered fares add up quickly. A typical ride from Midtown to Lower Manhattan will set you back $20 or more.

Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island ferries depart from an old railroad terminal at the state park abutting Jersey City’s Liberty Landing Marina, background.

You’ll find excellent guidance from NYC & Company (212-484-1222), the city’s official visitor information center. Tons of private companies offer assistance, too, just be wary of those shrewd sales folks (and websites) working on commissions. Ask a lot of questions and be sure you completely understand any deal. Even our editor, a one-time city resident, was hornswoggled into a bus tour that did not run as promised by the smooth-tongued peddler. Naturally, you’ll want to visit some of the best-known landmarks. Anticipate crowds everywhere — try to remain calm yet assertive.

Statue Cruises (877-523-9849) runs to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island from Manhattan’s Battery Park and New Jersey’s Liberty State Park, which is adjacent to Liberty Landing Marina. If you want inside access to Lady Liberty and her crown, purchase tickets months in advance. Long lines and sellouts are common. The state park’s Liberty Science Center (201-200-1000) is a great adventure on a rainy day. A historic train terminal where immigrants left for their new homes and a 9/11 memorial are among other park sites.

While you’re on the Jersey side, see what’s happening in Hoboken. The birthplace of baseball and of crooner Frank Sinatra, Hoboken has undergone its own transformation over the past couple of decades, including improvements along the river, much like Jersey City and Weehawken.

Across the Hudson and very close to North Cove Marina are Wall Street and The National September 11 Memorial & Museum. New Jersey ferries run from Liberty Landing Marina and Hoboken/14th Street, adjacent to The Shipyard Marina, to the World Financial Terminal, which is a few blocks from Ground Zero. Liberty Landing Ferry allows bikes, dogs and strollers at no additional charge.

Uptown in Midtown you have the Empire State Building (20 W. 34th Street) and Rockefeller Center, which is between 48th and 51st streets and Fifth and Sixth avenues. On Fifth Avenue you’ll find the famed stretch of luxurious shops from 49th to 60th streets. If you’re staying at New Jersey’s Shipyard Marina, neighboring NY Waterway (800-533-3779) has a ferry that goes to W. 39th Street, which is not far from these sites. From ONE°15 Brooklyn Marina, you can reach Midtown via the New York Water Taxi (212-742-1969), which stops at West 42nd Street.

Midtown is where you’ll find the Theater District, which encompasses Broadway from 40th to 54th streets, branching out east and west between Sixth and Eighth avenues. Broadway runs a northwest-southeast diagonal in this stretch. At 3 p.m. each day, you can buy half-price show tickets at the TKTS kiosk in Times Square, which is at the junction of Broadway and Seventh Avenue between West 42nd and 47th streets. More than 50 million people visit these crossroads annually, one of the world’s busiest pedestrian areas. A scene to be seen if you’ve never been, Times Square bustles with hustlers among the elbow-to-elbow throng. Aggressive performers all want a picture with you, and they are highly offended if you do not pay for the privilege.

It is one block from North Cove Marina at Brookfield Place, foreground, to the National September 11 Memorial & Museum and One World Trade Center.

Farther uptown, you have Central Park, the borough’s largest, which begins at 59th Street between Fifth and Eighth avenues. It is America’s most visited urban park and the world’s most filmed location. A couple blocks to the west is Lincoln Center, home to the Metropolitan Opera House, New York Philharmonic, New York City Ballet, Juilliard School and the Manhattan campus of Fordham University.

Twelve blocks to the north is the American Museum of Natural History (200 Central Park West; 212-769-5100). If you’re moored at the 79th Street Boat Basin, head due east for six blocks to the reach the museum and Central Park. Cut straight through the park to the Metropolitan Museum of Art (1000 Fifth Ave.; 212-535-7710). Stroll along Fifth Avenue and Central Park West to see some of the world’s most expensive real estate and maybe a celebrity.

If you haven’t had your fill of boats — and don’t want to combat the waters in your own vessel — you will find many alternatives like the ones already mentioned as well as those in the Ferries listings later in this chapter. Baseball fans can travel by boat to both Yankees and Mets home games via NY Waterway and New York Water Taxi. The granddaddy of cruises is the Circle Line (212-563-3200), which has a 2.5-hour circumnavigation of Manhattan that departs frequently from West 42nd Street at the Hudson River. We recommend this trip highly, as it helps to get your bearings and to see what the waterways are like while someone else is at the helm. Bonus points if you follow along with your chart.

The cheapest ride — it’s free — is the Staten Island Ferry, departing Manhattan from the terminal at Whitehall and South streets. On this 5-mile, half-hour cruise you’ll get close enough to the Statue of Liberty to take pictures of your friends with the Lady standing proudly in the background.

When you’re on Staten Island, be sure to check out Snug Harbor Cultural Center (718-448-2500), a mile from the ferry docks on the Kill Van Kull. Once a retirement community for sailors, it is now home to the Staten Island Botanical Garden, Staten Island Museum, Staten Island Children’s Museum, and more.

Sailors may enjoy chasing the breeze aboard the 105-foot schooner America 2.0, operated by the Classic Harbor Line (212-627-1825), which also runs the Adirondack, a replica of a 1890s schooner, and the 1920s-style luxury motor yacht Manhattan. They operate out of Chelsea Piers Marina (212-336-6600). These docks, just south of West 23rd Street, have many stories to tell; they were a major embarkation station for the military in early wars; the arrival wharves for newcomers at the peak of European immigration; the scheduled arrival destination for the Titanic on its maiden (and only) voyage; and the departure point for the ill-fated Lusitania. Today, the former ocean liner piers are an entertainment complex where you can ice skate, hit golf balls at a driving range or baseballs in a batting cage, bowl, rock climb ... you name it.

Three blocks to the north, Pier 66 Maritime (212-989-6363) is dubbed the People’s Pier. This old railroad barge is home to the Lightship Frying Pan and attracts both neighbors and visitors to see the historic ships, hear free live music and enjoy a drink or a meal at the outdoor café.

The netting surrounding the golf club is an obvious landmark for Chelsea Piers, three wharves among many within the grandiose Hudson River Park.

Farther north, climb aboard the USS Intrepid Sea, Air and Space Museum Complex (212-245-0072). Located at Pier 86 and 46th Street, the 872-foot World War II aircraft carrier holds the Space Shuttle Enterprise in addition to the guided missile submarine Growler and many other exhibits. Be sure to allow a little extra time to take in the Space Shuttle Pavilion. Seventeen dynamic exhibit zones feature original artifacts, photographs, audio and films that immerse visitors in the science and history of the era.

A block south of the USS Intrepid is Pier 84, one of the largest on the Manhattan waterfront. It is a small part of the truly impressive, 550-acre Hudson River Park (212-627-2020), which stretches from The Battery at Manhattan’s southern tip upriver to 59th Street. Decades ago, this waterfront was lined with decrepit wharves and bordered by a falling-down elevated highway. On more than a dozen quays and along the 4-plus-mile greenway you’ll find bike and walking paths, sports fields and courts, picnic and communal areas, children’s playgrounds and endless entertainment opportunities.

Pier 84 is one of several within Hudson River Park that has a dog run, where fresh water is usually available and the fenced areas are cleaned at least twice a day. Two others bookend Chelsea Piers Marina within the Gansevoort Peninsula and Chelsea Waterside Parks, and there is another in the Tribeca Upland, just north of North Cove Marina. The latter — at Piers 25 and 26 — is the most popular, separating breeds by size, delighting your toy poodle, dachshund, Shar Pei, Labrador or Neapolitan Mastiff. (If you have the last one aboard, you are definitely going to need a bigger boat!)

Along your Hudson River walk, trek inland a block or two onto the redeveloped elevated freight rails that are now a celebrated attraction, The High Line (212-500-6035). Urban planners around the world envy this aerial greenway that incorporates the neighborhood’s industrial past. It runs from Gansevoort Street (around West 13th Street) in the Meatpacking District to West 34th Street, between 11th and 12th avenues.

A highlight on the High Line’s north end is The Shed (545 W. 30th Street; 646-455-3494). It opened in 2019 to rave reviews for its arts, music and gardens, which provide a nice respite for food and coffee. You’ll need a rest after challenging the Vessel, a 16-story sculpture just behind The Shed that is also a series of 154 interconnecting staircases. A roundtrip on the Vessel is one mile. The honeycomb installation — some call it a bona fide tourist trap — is so popular that you have to book a time in advance to start your ascent. Tickets are free for the first hour of operation; afterward, the cost is $10. At the south end of the High Line is the spectacular Whitney Museum of Art (99 Gansevoort St.; 212-570-3600). All of these new attractions are part of what is now dubbed Hudson Yards, a neighborhood that was avoided a decade ago.

Farther north on the Upper West Side is Riverside Park, which stretches for 4 miles up to 158th Street. It is home to the 79th Street Boat Basin (212-496-2105), a municipal facility undergoing a major revitalization that will cost around $90 million. The marina will be closed during the reconstruction that will take several years. The bike trails within Riverside Park are a great way to work out your sea legs while enjoying tranquil waterside scenery within the bustle of the Big Apple.

The city has another marine facility in a peaceful setting uptown on the northwestern tip of Manhattan above the George Washington Bridge. Dyckman Marina (212-304-0183) abuts Inwood Hill Park at Spuyten Duyvil Creek and Fort Tryon Park, which is home to The Met Cloisters (212-923-3700). Sitting high on a hill, this archive of medieval works is governed by the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Across town and downtown on the East River, South Street Seaport Museum (12 Fulton St.; 212-748-8600) keeps New York City’s maritime history alive with exhibits, special programs and public sails daily from May thru October. The museum is home to a fleet of historic ships just below the Brooklyn Bridge. The surrounding neighborhood is a historic area of restored and renovated buildings from the 1800s and features some of the city’s oldest architecture.

Governors Island, the 172-acre island that lies 800 yards off the southern tip of Manhattan and even closer to Brooklyn, is a fun summertime weekend destination. It is open to the public for biking, touring, picnicking and free concerts and events. Handsome pre-Civil War buildings, Victorian and Romanesque revival housing and a pair of forts make up the historic district. Ferries ([e-mail]) depart daily from the Battery Maritime Building, adjacent to Lower Manhattan’s Staten Island Ferry terminal, and on weekends from Brooklyn Bridge Park’s Pier 6, adjacent to ONE°15 Brooklyn Marina and Atlantic Basin at Red Hook, near the intersection of Pioneer Street and Conover Street.

Restaurants and Provisions

Half the fun of a New York City visit is the discovery — no matter how many times you’ve been here, you’ll always find something new, especially at mealtime. Choosing a place to wine and dine may give you option-paralysis. Since there are entire books and websites devoted to the ever-changing dining scene here, we will focus on eateries located near marinas.

At Liberty Landing Marina (201-985-8000) breathtaking views complement elegant plates at Liberty House Restaurant (201-395-0300), which garners high praise from top critics and people who like to be spoiled by the attentive staff. Maritime Parc (201-413-0050), on the marina’s perimeter, is polished in both execution and presentation. For filling the larder, ask the Liberty Landing staff about their preferred grocery or deli in the outlying neighborhoods, as we saw a dozen within just a few blocks.

To the north, The Shipyard Marina (201-798-8080) hosts Pier 13 Hoboken, a seasonal beer garden loaded with various food trucks and vendors for dining al fresco. You can lay out a picnic at one of three adjacent parks along Sinatra Drive — Shipyard Park, Maxwell Place and Elysian Place. The latter has a dog run.

When you’re in Hoboken, you have to walk the three blocks from The Shipyard Marina over to Washington Street, which the American Planning Association has dubbed one of America’s Top 10 Great Streets. This former warehousing and shipping district now touts a range of shops, bars, restaurants and residences within its 15 blocks.

On the other side of the Hudson near 79th Street Boat Basin (212-496-2105) there is an international smorgasbord of eateries around Amsterdam Avenue, which is just four blocks from the marina. We saw Greek, French, Italian, Indian and Kosher among the dining spots. While you’re in the neighborhood, you must provision at the world-renowned Zabar’s (212-787-2000) on Broadway and 80th Street, three blocks from the marina. If you’ve never heard of Zabar’s, you’ve been on the boat too long. Just about every television show filmed in New York references it.

Another hot spot is the Meatpacking District, considered by some residents as one of the best places to live in Manhattan, where Chelsea Market at 9th Avenue and 15th Street has a grand arcade of food stalls, bakeries and shops in an old Nabisco building. Northwest from the market is Chelsea Piers Marina, home to Bluestone Lane (718-374-6858). This quaint cafe sports Australian influenced dishes while remaining mindful of health and wellness. To the south at North Cove Marina (917-677-7680), steps from the reflecting pools, Brookfield Place is part of the emerging culinary, retail and business scene at the site of the former World Financial Center. Some of the city’s — if not the country’s — most renowned restaurateurs have been attracted here. There are more than 20 dining options (too many to name them all) so just bring your appetite.

Also in Lower Manhattan by North Cove Marina, roughly 40 restaurants compete for your attention at Battery Park City, a residential/office complex. One of our favorites is Gigino (212-528-2228) at Wagner Park, which features white-tablecloth outdoor dining with excellent food and a view of the Statue of Liberty.

Up north past the George Washington Bridge at Dyckman Marina is The Hudson (646-663-5886), an aptly named, casual and family friendly waterfront eatery with fun outdoor activities and fresh seafood.

Charts

Use Maptech ChartKit Region 3, Page 51 and 52; Maptech Waterproof Chartbook Long Island Sound; Maptech Waterproof Chart 8; and NOAA charts 12327 (1:40,000), 12334 (1:10,000), 12335 (1:10,000), 12339 (1:10,000), 12341 (1:10,000), 12342 (1:10,000), 12401 (1:15,000) and 12402 (1:15,000).

Tides and Currents

At the confluence of the Hudson and East rivers, use tide tables for New York (The Battery). The mean tidal range is 4.5 feet. On an ocean approach at Fort Wadsworth, The Narrows, use tide tables for Sandy Hook, N.J. High and low tide at the Narrows are six minutes later than Sandy Hook. Currents run strong here — up to nearly 3 knots at The Narrows and 5 knots or more at Hell Gate on the East River.

Navigation and Anchorages

Few places in the world are as awe-inspiring and interesting as the Big Apple. Arriving by boat, particularly on one’s own, is simply a thrill. Don’t let the scenery dazzle you too much: This is serious water and you must pay close attention. (Please refer to the preceding chapter, New York City Metro Area, for an introduction to the approaches here.)

NOTE: We highly recommend first-timers take the 2.5-hour Circle Line trip that circumnavigates Manhattan before coming here in your own boat. You’ll get an idea of what to expect on the waters with someone else at the helm and you can enjoy the sites at the same time. Cruises depart from West 42nd Street.

New York Harbor is a place for extremely cautious navigation. Travel on a fair tide and allow for set and drift with the strong currents. Several marked channels compete for your attention, and it is easy to mistake one buoy for another, so be sure to follow a compass and GPS course, and keep track of your position on a chart. At night, the array of flashing navigation aids can be daunting as they blend in with all the lights ashore. You will also have to keep your eyes peeled for debris, as New York is infamous for boat-crunching flotsam.

CAUTION: If you’re planning on traveling at night, take time to refresh your knowledge of navigation light configurations of powerboats, sailboats, towing vessels and large commercial vessels. Keep an especially sharp lookout for tugs, which will either be pinned to a barge to push it or carrying the barge on the hip or gob/gog wire. Lighting configurations for either position can be confusing, particularly in combination with all the lights ashore.

Tugs, ships and ferries with less maneuverability have the right of way. As this harbor is very busy, we highly recommend that you keep tuned to VHF 13. All commercial vessels monitor this channel, and important information, such as position and route of commercial traffic, can be heard. In the event a problem develops (such as a loss of power), don’t hesitate to call a commercial vessel on VHF 13 to explain your situation. Professional mariners would much rather know what you are doing than guess about it.

Be aware of the permanent security zones in place within 150 yards of Liberty and Ellis islands, within 175 yards of the United Nations building on the East River, within 100 yards of any commercial passenger vessel, and within 25 yards of dams, power plants and commercial port facilities. Call 718-354-4037 for security zone updates and other local Coast Guard information. In an emergency you can also call the Coast Guard at 718-354-4353 or 911.

NOTE: Kayaking has become popular in New York Harbor, so be sure to watch out for the little guys as well as the large commercial traffic.

Approaching from the Atlantic

Boats approaching New York from the south coast of Long Island or from the New Jersey shore have a straightforward passage from the Atlantic Ocean into Ambrose Channel, the ship channel that leads into the Port of New York.

It is safe to travel just outside the channel to avoid shipping traffic, provided you avoid a couple of marked shallow spots — namely Romer Shoal, marked by Fl (2) 15s 54ft 15M HORN at the intersection of the Ambrose, Swash and Main Ship channels; and parts of East Bank, a shallow area between Coney Island and Ambrose Channel.

You may also follow a slightly less-trafficked combination of channels to the south of Ambrose by entering the Sandy Hook Channel at RW S Mo (A) WHIS RACON and then continue to the Swash Channel and Main Ship Channel (aka Chapel Hill Channel). The channels are wide and clearly marked, and all lead to the Upper Bay, which begins at The Narrows where the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge connects Brooklyn (east) and Staten Island (west).

In Brooklyn (refer to the South Shore Long Island chapter), both Sheepshead and Gravesend bays offer overnight accommodations, as does Staten Island’s Great Kills Harbor (see the New Jersey and Staten Island chapter).

NOTE: In a strong easterly or southeasterly wind, take advantage of the Bay Ridge and Red Hook channels, as you will be sheltered by the Brooklyn shore. In these winds, the Upper Bay can become very choppy, especially on the ebb tide. Stay in the channel, passing east of Bay Ridge Flats.

At Red Hook, south of Governors Island, you’ll see a container port and cruise ship terminal. Boats heading directly to Long Island Sound can take Buttermilk Channel along the east side of Governors Island to the East River. Those planning to spend time in the city should follow the main passage (Anchorage Channel) west of Governors Island to the Hudson River, where you will find marinas on both shores.

Due west of Governors Island, the Statue of Liberty greets you. Landing on either Liberty Island or Ellis Island is strictly prohibited. You may be tempted to get caught up in the glorious view of the Lady, but be cautious, as it gets a bit rocky around the island and tour-boat traffic will be heavy. There is shallow water south of the entrance to Liberty State Park that gets many boaters in trouble; stay close to the bulkhead. Pleasure boats sometimes anchor for the night in the 4- to 6-foot waters to the south and west of Liberty Island. The holding ground is good, but a 150-yard security zone surrounding the landmark limits your options. You are not permitted to anchor behind Liberty and Ellis islands.

Governors Island is where the Dutch settlers established a toehold before taking Manhattan.

Hudson River

Dockage in New York Harbor may seem pricy — less so on the New Jersey side — but when you compare the cost of a slip to a Manhattan hotel room, dockage actually seems like a bargain — with an even better view! For those who don’t mind rocking to sleep, moorings are easier on the pocketbook. The New Jersey marinas on the river’s western shore all offer stunning views of Manhattan.

There are several facilities inside Jersey City’s Morris Canal Basin on the river’s west side, including massive Liberty Landing Marina (201-985-8000), a Suntex brand. Their super friendly and locally knowledgeable staff here will point you in the right direction ashore, especially where to eat. Place their exquisite on-site restaurant atop your list of dining options, so as to not disappoint the gawkers aboard who catch a whiff from afar. Abutting Liberty State Park, it’s close to many attractions, has excursion cruises to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island, photography and jet ski tours, and there’s a ferry to Manhattan. (Be sure to check out the unique hot tub boat tour that departs from here.) Gas and diesel fuel, repairs and space for superyachts up to 200 feet LOA are among the litany of other conveniences at Liberty Landing Marina.

On the Manhattan side, North Cove Marina at Brookfield Place (917-677-7680) may seem small in square area but it’s big in stature — just look at the superyachts. It’s in the heart of the World Financial Center, steps from One World Trade Center and the memorials. Dozens of shops and restaurants are on-site or nearby, easily accessible on foot, so you can save the taxi fare for a dessert or a gift for a loved one instead.

To the north, Pier 25 Marina (917-789-6325) and the Hudson River Park Trust (212-627-2020) at Pier 40 have moorings. The latter is the city-state authority responsible for the adjacent 4-mile riverside greenway. The 550-acre sanctuary includes a bike path, ball fields, playgrounds, enclosed dog runs and bathrooms.

Another mile upriver along the greenway is Chelsea Piers Marina (212-336-6600), which will accommodate superyachts up to 300 feet LOA. There’s a fitness club to stretch those sea legs and work out that last big meal you ate. The bar and lounge are great for making new friends, who you can put to a challenge other than travel trivia. Get in some physical activity in the swimming pool, on the driving range and in the bowling center. Loser of the triathlon picks up the next tab!

Across the river on the New Jersey side is The Shipyard Marina (201-798-8080) in Hoboken. This is a compact facility in a compact city that is only 2 square miles in area. There is a dog run at the pier and Elysian Park, a couple of blocks to the south. Dogs are only allowed on Hoboken’s paved sidewalks, but not on lawns, planted beds or gravel areas. Water fountains for dogs are spaced periodically along the Waterfront Walkway and bowls are often cited at the businesses along trendy Washington Street, adjacent to the facility. Manhattan-bound commuter ferries operate weekdays from The Shipyard Marina.

Farther north, the New York City-owned 79th Street Boat Basin (212-496-2105) sits within the lower end of Riverside Park. One of our editors, a former city resident, thinks Riverside Park is one of New York’s most underrated attractions, but he asks you not to tell anyone else. The surrounding neighborhoods are definitely not Midtown, with modest restaurants, bars and shops that treat you like a local, not a tourist. Ask the dockmaster about the city’s ambitious $90 million upgrade for the basin and park, which has a dog run on its south end by 72nd Street.

Upriver on the New Jersey side, Edgewater Marina (201-943-1700), owned by the borough of the same name, has transient slips for vessels up to 55 feet LOA. The neighborhood has several restaurants and other conveniences, including green spaces to walk your dog.

Above the George Washington Bridge at Manhattan island’s northern tip is Dyckman Marina (212-304-0183), another city-run facility that has slips and moorings for visiting boaters. Free laundry and showers, an on-site restaurant and a boat ramp are among its many amenities. Dyckman Marina is situated alongside two large parks in a relatively quiet neighborhood by Big Apple standards. From here, kayakers will enjoy exploring the nearby Spuyten Duyvil Creek, which separates the city’s boroughs of Manhattan and the Bronx. (Technically, the neighborhood on the creek’s northeast shore, Marble Hill, is part of Manhattan but it is on the Bronx, or mainland, side, which is great trivia for any of your friends who supposedly know everything about New York City. Manhattan is not all-island.)

Pronounced SPY-tun DIE-vul, the name originates from Dutch settlers, one of whom vowed to swim the waterway during the British attack on New Amsterdam in the 1660s en spijt den Duyvil, or in spite of the devil. The Spuyten Duyvil runs into the Harlem River, which if you followed it for 7 miles you’d connect with the East River and the entrance to Long Island Sound at Hell Gate. (See the following chapter, East River, Hell Gate & Flushing Bay, for more information on navigating this area.)

North of Manhattan, the Hudson River provides wide and deep water as well as a majestic 150-mile journey to upstate New York. Refer to the Hudson River section of this guide for information on navigation, facilities, and provisioning all the way to Troy as well as the New York State Canals.

East River

Unless you have opted for the Buttermilk Channel shortcut, you’ll cross in front of The Battery at the southern tip of Manhattan as you make way toward the East River. The view is breathtaking, but be sure to watch out for the Staten Island ferries and other large commercial vessels that make this an exceptionally active part of the harbor.

Brooklyn, to the east, is in the midst of a turnaround and gaining popularity as a destination of its own. Therefore, it should come as no surprise that its slip space is growing, too. ONE°15 Brooklyn Marina (718-490-7136) opened in 2016 in the revitalized Brooklyn Bridge Park between Piers 4 and 5. Thirty years ago it was home to the N.Y. Port Authority’s shipping operations that were quite literally falling down. Today, its anchor tenant is the beauteous ONE°15 Brooklyn Marina, a 120-slip facility that can accommodate superyachts up to 200 feet LOA. Its docks are alongside the neighborhoods of Brooklyn Heights, an affluent community of landmark brownstone row houses, and DUMBO (an acronym for Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass), known for its tech startup companies and as being the most expensive place to live in the borough, if not most of the city. Top-notch, well-favored restaurants and shops are just steps from a slip at ONE°15 Brooklyn Marina. Don’t worry: An adjacent park has plenty of recreational activities to work off the meals. And bring your pooch along: There’s a run where dogs can be off-leash.

Water runs fast in the river, so it is best to travel on a fair tide, and you probably won’t want to stop here. The route to Long Island Sound will take you past Wall Street, South Street Seaport and beneath several bridges. Listed south to north, the first three — Brooklyn, Manhattan and Williamsburg (think BMW) — are stunningly picturesque. As you travel north with Manhattan to port and Brooklyn and later Queens to starboard, you may be moving faster than the bumper-to-bumper traffic on Manhattan’s FDR Drive. There are few hazards, apart from commercial traffic, until you near Roosevelt Island, the 2-mile-long cay that lies between Manhattan and Queens. The Queensboro Bridge (also called the 59th Street Bridge) passes over the island and an aerial tram connects it to Manhattan.

Look for Fl G 4s 57ft 17 on Belmont Island, below the southern tip of Roosevelt Island near the United Nations Headquarters. Avoid passing between Roosevelt and Belmont islands, as there is a shoal just northeast of Belmont. If, however, you are directed to do so because of extraordinary security restrictions around the U.N., you’ll find 20-plus feet of water midway between the two islands. Just watch your chart and depth sounder carefully.

CAUTION: Sailboats should stay west of Roosevelt Island. The lift bridge on the east side of the island has 40 feet of vertical clearance when closed. A strong current here can make it very difficult for some boats to turn around.

If your height permits, you can pass to either side of Roosevelt Island. The west channel is preferred because it’s the deeper of the two; the east channel is spanned by a lift bridge with only 40 feet of vertical clearance when closed. Six hours’ notice is needed to raise the bridge. Currents in both channels can run as high as 5 knots, which can significantly alter your course; be careful in this area. Please refer to the following chapter, East River, Hell Gate & Flushing Bay, for more complete information on navigating farther north into Hell Gate toward Long Island Sound.

Superyacht Facilities

Chelsea Piers Marina 212-336-6600

Liberty Landing Marina 201-985-8000

North Cove Marina at Brookfield Place 917-677-7680

ONE°15 Brooklyn Marina 718-490-7136

Shoreside and Emergency Services

Bus and Subway: NYC Transit Authority 511

Coast Guard: 911 or VHF 16

Ferries: Liberty Landing (N.J. to World Financial Center) 201-604-5799

—New York Water Taxi (Midtown, Battery Park, South Street Seaport, Brooklyn DUMBO) 212-742-1969

—NY Waterway (9 N.J. and 3 Manhattan Terminals) 800-533-3779

—NYC Ferry (E. 34th St. and Wall Street to Bronx, Queens and Brooklyn) www.ferry.nyc

—Staten Island 212-839-3061

Tow Service: Sea Tow 800-4SEATOW or VHF 16

—TowBoatU.S. 800-391-4869 or VHF 16

Train: L.I. Railroad 511

—Metro-North 212-532-4900

—PATH 800-234-PATH

East River, Hell Gate and Flushing Bay

Superyacht Destination

Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms Park, foreground, is on the southern tip of the eponymous island. Over its history the cay has housed farm animals, prisoners and psychiatric patients, among its residents. Today, it’s home to many diplomats from the United Nations across the East River.

The East River’s reputation as a tricky passage is well deserved. It’s not — and probably will never be — a popular spot for casual boating. New York was built around the tidal estuary, and though its role is diminished, the waterway still offers a unique view of the city’s inner workings. If you’re not too busy fighting a foul current, you’re sure to come away from the passage awed by the vast scale of New York City.

Successfully running Hell Gate is primarily a matter of good timing. The Dutch explorer Adriaen Block, the first European to navigate the East River, named the area hellegat, meaning bright passage. He must’ve timed it right. Its English name Hell Gate fits better, as the waters have bedeviled mariners for centuries.

Before engineers blasted Flood Rock out of the strait in 1885, the current topped out at 10 knots and the bottom was littered with shipwrecks. That blast, historians say, was the largest intentional man-made explosion before the 1945 detonation of the atomic bomb.

In reality, the East River is not a river at all. Rather, it’s a 14-mile-long tidal strait that begins in New York Harbor and ends at Long Island Sound. Eight bridges, including the famed Brooklyn Bridge, cross it and 13 tunnels, mostly for trains and subways, burrow beneath it. The waters here can sometimes well up fiercely — especially at Hell Gate, where the river takes a sharp bend east toward Long Island Sound and the Harlem River pours in from the northwest. Here, the current runs the strongest, so be prepared to deal with 4 or 5 knots.

There was a time when the currents presented dangerous passage. These days, however, the East River’s evil reputation seems overplayed. True, the fast currents and boiling rips at Hell Gate make this a place where skippers must sit up and take notice, but even when the water pushes at full bore, it is manageable in today’s well-crafted vessels if a competent captain is at the helm. One local group even runs kayak trips here.

It’s all a matter of timing the tide, the organizer told us. And you, too, should make your passage with a fair tide, for slack water here only lasts about four minutes.

Things to See and Do

As in the previous chapter we suggest taking the Circle Line (212-563-3200), which runs a trip around Manhattan, starting at West 42nd Street. You’ll see the entire East River, Hell Gate and Harlem River with someone else as the captain. When you do take your helm you can do so with confidence about what you’re seeing. After all, until you reach Flushing Bay there is no place to come ashore, so break out the binoculars and tour away.

Yankee Stadium is 3 miles up the Harlem River from Hell Gate. Without the internet, try to name Major League Baseball’s few fields sans corporate names.

Beyond South Street Seaport and the Brooklyn Bridge, your next major landmark on the Manhattan shoreline is the United Nations, which is just west of Roosevelt Island and Long Island City, a neighborhood in Queens. Along the way you passed Newtown Creek, the westernmost boundary between Brooklyn and Queens, which are technically on Long Island. Manhattan and Staten Island are also surrounded by water. The only mainland borough of the city’s five is the Bronx, which you’ll see in a few minutes as you head farther upriver.

While Roosevelt Island is technically part of Manhattan, it’s nothing like it. Until 1973 it was called Welfare Island, as it housed hospitals for well over five decades. Once the United Nations moved across the way in 1968 the place started its own rehabilitation. Named after Franklin D. Roosevelt, the island has a tram connecting it to Manhattan, and it is slowly becoming more gentrified. Of course it helps that many diplomatic sector employees reside here.

Speaking of FDR, that’s the name of the highway you see to port as you head upriver. If you are making passage with the current you will likely be traveling faster than the commuters on FDR Drive.

As you cruise past the northern tip of Roosevelt Island, look to the west: that’s Gracie Mansion. It is the official residence of New York’s mayor, although some ultra rich office holders have chosen other places to shack up. Hell Gate is straight ahead and so is the Bronx. If you’re at the helm reading this, we have not warned you enough — put the book down now and pay attention. (See Navigation and Anchorages later in this chapter for more information.)

Safely beyond Hell Gate you’ll see Randalls Island to the west. It’s conjoined with Wards Island, and both are part of Manhattan. Most of the island is parkland with ball fields and fitness facilities. The Triborough Bridge connects it to Queens, Manhattan and the Bronx; thus, its nomenclature.

North Brother and South Brother islands quickly appear to the northeast. The first was the site of a quarantine hospital where Typhoid Mary lived for many years. The ruins are still visible. South Brother, a 6-acre wilderness and nesting area for herons and egrets, has been acquired by the city and is now a protected wildlife area. Less than a half mile beyond, Rikers Island, the infamous correctional facility, houses up to 15,000 inmates who probably dream of escape as they watch planes take off from the adjacent LaGuardia Airport.

Flushing Bay extends shoreward between LaGuardia and College Point. Nobody will try to tell you that boaters come here for scenery or serenity, but its sheltered bay and the World’s Fair Marina (718-478-0480) make it a convenient stopping point en route to and from the city. It’s also a real destination for baseball and tennis fans. Both Citi Field, home of the New York Mets, and Billie Jean King National Tennis Center, home of the U.S. Open Grand Slam Tournament, are within easy walking distance of the marina.

Also nearby is Flushing Meadows Corona Park, the site of the 1939 and 1964-65 World’s Fairs — now you know the origin of the marina’s name. The Unisphere from the 1964 fair still stands proud, and former fair pavilions house two cultural institutions: the Queens Museum of Art (718-592-9700), which offers an amazing panorama of the city, and the New York Hall of Science (718-699-0005), the city’s only hands-on museum of science and technology.

The Queens Botanical Garden (718-886-3800), also within walking distance of the World’s Fair Marina, is inexpensive and filled with beautiful sights and scents. Its more than 39 acres of habitats include woodlands, wetlands and meadows. Be sure to check out the rose garden in June or the Fragrance Walk, which offers a collection of shrubs, perennials, and bulbs that are especially savory and sweet during the growing season. Birders will also be happy here.

Another spot of interest, albeit a short cab ride away, is the Queens Zoo (718-271-1500) in Flushing. Unlike larger wildlife exhibitions, you can see everything here in an afternoon and the animals are within a close range. Kids love to linger in the petting zoo.

Charts

Use Maptech ChartKit Region 3, Pages 51, 52 and 52A; Richardsons’ Chartbook & Cruising Guide Hudson River & Adjacent Waterways; Maptech Waterproof Chartbook Long Island Sound; Maptech Waterproof Chart 8. Also, NOAA charts 12327 (1:40,000), 12335 (1:10,000), 12339 (1:10,000), 12342 (1:10,000) and 12366 (1:20,000).

Tides and Currents

For Hell Gate at Wards Island, use the tide tables for New York — The Battery. High tide is 2 hours, 58 minutes later than at The Battery; low tide is 3 hours, 45 minutes later than at The Battery. The mean tidal range at Hell Gate is 6 feet. The mean range at World’s Fair Marina in Flushing Bay is 6.8 feet.

The tides and currents in the East River vary with your location. Generally, flood currents run northeast into Long Island Sound and ebb currents run southwest into New York Harbor (the opposite of Long Island Sound currents). At either end of the East River, currents are fairly weak, but at Hell Gate 4- to 5-knot currents may combine with strong winds, heavy traffic and fluctuating depths to make navigation difficult if you go through at the wrong time.

Bridges

CAUTION: Sailboats should stay west of Roosevelt Island. The lift bridge on the east side of the island has only a 40-foot vertical clearance when closed and the strong, funneled current here can make it difficult for some sail-boats and smaller powerboats to get turned around.

Clearance is not a problem at any of the eight bridges crossing the East River, with the exception of the vertical lift bridge at 36th Street on the east side of Roosevelt Island, with a clearance of 40 feet in the closed position. You need to give six hours’ notice to raise that bridge.

Navigation and Anchorages

CAUTION: Large commercial ships cannot stop or turn quickly, especially when headed downstream in a stiff current. If evasive actions are required, you’ll be the one who has to alter course or stay clear.

East River

The infamous Hell Gate, just north of Roosevelt Island, is where the strong currents of the East River combine with the waters of the Harlem River around Mill Rock. The area has a reputation for strong, reversing currents and large standing waves, and there are (unfounded) rumors of eddies ready to swallow the unprepared.

The East River’s reputation as a place to practice prudent navigation and piloting techniques is, however, justified. Unless you choose to head up the Harlem River, which we describe later in this chapter, you’ll turn to starboard as you head for Long Island Sound. Keep a sharp lookout in case a tanker or large tugboat towing a barge suddenly appears in front of you as you make your way around the corner.

Experienced local mariners suggest staying as far away from the center as possible while transiting the East River, especially if you have a small or underpowered boat, because the stiffest current will run in the deeper water. Traveling close to shore isn’t usually a problem in the East River because it’s deep, but keep an eye on your chart and look out for old pilings.

Long Island Sound’s western terminus is at Hell Gate, above. Its reputation as a place to practice prudent navigation is justified. A pedestrian bridge, foreground, connects Manhattan to Wards Island, left, over the Harlem River. The East River, Queens (left) and Manhattan (right) are to the south.

EAST RIVER ADVICE

The western gateway to Long Island Sound, the East River is really a 14-mile tidal strait separating Long Island from the mainland. About halfway down the river is the infamous Hell Gate, where the strong currents of the East River combine with the waters of the Harlem River around Mill Rock.

Tides and currents in the East River vary with location. Generally, flood currents run northeast into Long Island Sound and ebb currents run southwest into New York Harbor (the opposite of Long Island Sound currents).

At either end of the East River, currents are fairly weak, but at Hell Gate, 4- to 5-knot currents may combine with strong winds, heavy traffic and fluctuating depths to make navigation difficult if you go through at the wrong time. Consult your current tables for daily predictions for Hell Gate, and follow a few rules of thumb:

1 Plan ahead! Go with the current and avoid maximum flood or ebb currents in Hell Gate, especially in small or under-powered boats. When planning your passage through the Gate, remember that slack water only lasts about four minutes. If you’re running late, don’t push it — plan on spending the night at a marina.

2 Wear approved personal flotation devices while on the river and proceed with extra caution. Retrieving someone who has slipped overboard would be an extraordinarily dangerous situation due to the congested traffic and ripping currents.

3 Use up-to-date charts and keep track of your position. (The bridges make great landmarks!)

4 Monitor VHF Channel 13 throughout your passage. Commercial vessels will be making their passing agreements and position announcements as required by law.

5 In general, navigate to the right of center of the channels and always be on the lookout for large vessels that cannot change course quickly. It is your responsibility to stay clear of them in this narrow channel.

The Brooklyn Bridge, left, and the Manhattan Bridge, right, are the southernmost spans on the always busy East River, just north of South Street Seaport and the Financial District. Watch out for the Governors Island and Staten Island ferries at the Battery near Manhattan’s southern tip. Enjoy the view!

If you’re heading east from Hell Gate toward Long Island Sound, it’s easy to get confused when traveling near North and South Brother islands, a mile and a half beyond the railroad bridge. The preferred channel runs to the north of North Brother Island, but there is clear water between the islands as well.

Whatever you do, don’t head south of South Brother. This area is rife with rocks and shallows. A ledge, partly exposed at low water, extends 400 yards southward from South Brother Island.

Deep water will take you past Rikers Island and LaGuardia Airport to Flushing Bay, a shallow, well-protected harbor bordered by College Point to the east and LaGuardia to the west. A well-marked, 14-foot channel runs southeast to the bay’s head.

If you bypass Flushing Bay, there is deep water all the way east to Throgs Neck. Just be sure you stay north of College Point Reef Fl 2.5s 29ft 7M CP.

To reach Flushing Bay from the west, pass the East River’s G 5 Fl G 2.5s, which is south of the Bronx River and southeast of Hunts Point, then steer southeast for Flushing Bay’s R N 2 and G 1 Fl G 2.5s off College Point. This course avoids the long, lighted pier extending northeast from one of LaGuardia’s runways. From the east, proceed southwest from G 3 GONG just north of College Point Reef, and pass between G 1 Fl G 2.5s and R N 2off College Point.

Aim for G 3 Fl G 4s at the start of the dredged channel. Stay within the well-marked channel as far as the turning basin. Also, watch out for garbage barges heading to and from the sanitation pier just south of Cape Ruth, and note the submerged dike running along the channel’s west edge.

Flushing Bay provides good protection in all but northeasterly winds, and even its southern reaches, protected by a long bar, remain calm. The transient-friendly World’s Fair Marina (718-478-0480) at the harbor’s head is a secure, deep-water (contrary to charted depths) landing. It is undergoing a multi-million-dollar renovation, part of a $2 billion — plus or minus — restoration of Flushing Bay following Hurricane Sandy’s assault in 2012. Operated by New York City Department of Parks and Recreation, World’s Fair Marina is a great place to stay while waiting for a favorable Hell Gate tide. It is also close to the No. 7 subway line, which can whisk you into Manhattan. Call well in advance of coming here as slip space is limited during the construction projects. The folks who work at all the city marinas are super knowledgeable about navigating and touring the Big Apple, and are constantly getting great reviews from visiting boaters.

Heading out of Flushing Bay, follow the channel until you pass G 1 Fl G 2.5s, then continue northeast until you have passed College Point Reef. Once you’re past the Whitestone and Throgs Neck bridges, you will be at the western entrance of Long Island Sound.

The Robert F. Kennedy Bridge, foreground, is the first of many spans you’ll find along the Harlem River heading northbound. Connecting Manhattan, left, with the Bronx, right, and Queens, the complex is more commonly referred to as the Triborough Bridge by New York residents and traffic reporters.

Harlem River

An alternative passage between Long Island Sound and the Hudson River, the Harlem River saves about 13 miles as compared to circumnavigating Manhattan’s southern tip. You will miss some of the iconic New York scenery but you’ll also avoid a lot of boat traffic — if you see any at all.

NOTE: Harlem River bridge openings must be requested at least four hours in advance