The Rough Guide to Cyprus (Travel Guide eBook)

By Rough Guides

Practical travel guide to Cyprus featuring points-of-interest structured lists of all sights and off-the-beaten-track treasures, with detailed colour-coded maps, practical details about what to see and to do in Cyprus, how to get there and around, pre-departure information, as well as top time-saving tips, like a visual list of things not to miss in Cyprus, expert author picks and itineraries to help you plan your trip.


The Rough Guide to CYPRUS covers: Larnaka, Lemesos, Pafos, the Troodos Mountains, Lefkosia (south Nicosia) and north Cyprus.

Inside this travel guide you'll find:

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR EVERY TYPE OF TRAVELLER
Experiences selected for every kind of trip to Cyprus, from off-the-beaten-track adventures in Anoyira to family activities in child-friendly places, like Pafos or chilled-out breaks in popular tourist areas, like Larnaka.

PRACTICAL TRAVEL TIPS
Essential pre-departure information including Cyprus entry requirements, getting around, health information, travelling with children, sports and outdoor activities, food and drink, festivals, culture and etiquette, shopping, tips for travellers with disabilities and more.


TIME-SAVING ITINERARIES
Carefully planned routes covering the best of Cyprus give a taste of the richness and diversity of the destination, and have been created for different time frames or types of trip.

DETAILED REGIONAL COVERAGE
Clear structure within each sightseeing chapter includes regional highlights, brief history, detailed sights and places ordered geographically, recommended restaurants, hotels, bars, clubs and major shops or entertainment options.

INSIGHTS INTO GETTING AROUND LIKE A LOCAL
Tips on how to beat the crowds, save time and money and find the best local spots for hiking, relaxing on the beach or learning about the local culture and history.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THINGS NOT TO MISS
Rough Guides' rundown of Agia Napa, Lemesos, Girne (Kyrenia) and Salamis's best sights and top experiences helps to make the most of each trip to Cyprus, even in a short time.

HONEST AND INDEPENDENT REVIEWS
Written by Rough Guides' expert authors with a trademark blend of humour, honesty and expertise, to help to find the best places in Cyprus, matching different needs.

BACKGROUND INFORMATION
Comprehensive 'Contexts' chapter features fascinating insights into Cyprus, with coverage of history, religion, ethnic groups, environment, wildlife and books, plus a handy language section and glossary.

FABULOUS FULL COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY
Features inspirational colour photography, including the stunning Pafos Harbour and the spectacular Akamas Peninsula.

COLOUR-CODED MAPPING
Practical full-colour maps, with clearly numbered, colour-coded keys for quick orientation in Protaras, Polis and many more locations in Cyprus, reduce need to go online.

USER-FRIENDLY LAYOUT
With helpful icons, and organised by neighbourhood to help you pick the best spots to spend your time.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Insight Guides
• Release date: Sep 15, 2022
• ISBN: 9781839058752

Rough Guides

Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

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Contents

Introduction to Cyprus

Where to go

When to go

Author picks

things not to miss

Itineraries

Basics

Getting there

Getting around

Accommodation

Food and drink

Festivals and public holidays

Sports and outdoor activities

Culture and etiquette

Travel essentials

Larnaka and around

Larnaka

Agia Napa

Around Agia Napa

West of Larnaka

Lemesos and around

Lemesos

East of Lemesos

West of Lemesos

The Akrotiri Peninsula

The Troodos foothills

Pafos and around

Pafos

Day-trips from Pafos

The Akamas Peninsula

Polis

West of Polis

East of Polis

South of Polis

Tilliria

The Troodos Mountains

Troodos village and around

Marathasa

Solea

Pitsilia

Machairas

Lefkosia (South Nicosia)

Ledra Street and around

Pafos Gate and around

East Lefkosia

The suburbs

Around Lefkosia

North Cyprus

Lefkoşa (North Nicosia)

Girne (Kyrenia)

Around Girne

Güzelyurt and the west

Gazimağusa (Famagusta)

Around Gazimağusa

The Karpaz Peninsula

Contexts

History

Geology and wildlife

Books

Greek and Turkish

Glossary

Small print

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Introduction to Cyprus

Birthplace of Aphrodite and crossroads between three continents, Cyprus has seduced and inspired generations of travellers for hundreds of years. And it continues to do so today. The promise of Cyprus is one of dazzling beaches, shimmering blue seas, endless summers and tables groaning under heaped platters of mezé and bottles of sweet, chilled wine. On the cusp between West and East, between Christian and Muslim, and with towns and cities that are vibrantly modern yet bear witness to the island’s long and culturally diverse history, Cyprus is blessed with a balmy climate and a rugged landscape of coast and mountains dotted with vineyards, villages and monasteries.

Cyprus has earned its place as one of Europe’s tourist hotspots. From quaint rustic cottages to luxury hotel complexes, from welcoming village tavernas to burgeoning fine-dining restaurants, from coastal resorts with all the tourist bells and whistles to empty wilderness peninsulas and forested mountains, Cyprus can cater for all tastes. And native Cypriots, whether Greek or Turkish, are famous for the warmth of their hospitality.

Venture beyond the resorts, with their karaoke bars and restaurants knocking out fish and chips, pizza and, more recently, Russian stroganoff, and it’s not hard to find another Cyprus. Traces of the exotic and Levantine are never far away, from ruined Lusignan and Venetian castles and elegant Islamic minarets to cool mountain villages hiding sacred icons from the very first days of Christianity.

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No stranger to turbulence and strife, Cyprus has suffered waves of foreign invaders, from Mycenaean Greeks and Persians to sunburnt Crusaders, Ottoman pashas, and British Empire-builders. More recently, it has attracted numerous Russian expats. Internal division too has left its mark on the island. First, in the 1950s and 60s, came the struggle by Greek Cypriots for independence and union with Greece, then intercommunal violence prompted by fears among the minority Turkish Cypriots regarding what union with Greece might mean for them, and finally the Turkish invasion of the island in 1974 which resulted in its de facto partition between a Turkish Cypriot north and a Greek Cypriot south. Bitterness caused by the split lives on today. However, in recent years the easing of tensions and the gradual opening up of the Green Line has made it easier for travellers to explore the island as a whole. It is now possible to experience both sides of the divide in one day, and in the capital you can immerse yourself in two distinct cultures – Greek and Turkish, Christian and Muslim – simply by walking down a street and crossing between the two halves of the city.

Cyprus, then, offers the traveller not only a welcome whose warmth is legendary, but both hedonistic pleasure and cultural diversity out of all proportion to its size.

FACT FILE

Cyprus, with a land area of 9251 square kilometres, is the third largest island in the Mediterranean. Its nearest neighbours are Turkey (75km) and Syria (105km) respectively. The capital, once Nicosia, now Lefkosia and Lefkoşa, is over 900km from Athens and only 250km from Beirut. The island’s highest point, at 1952m, is Mount Olympos.

The official population (of the whole island) stands at just above 1,200,000, of which the majority (around 77 per cent) are Greek Cypriot (and therefore Orthodox Christian), while Turkish Cypriots (and therefore Muslims) are in the minority (around 18 per cent). There’s also a significant expat community based on the island.

The government of the Republic of Cyprus (and therefore de jure of the whole island) is a democracy which, since 2004, has been a member of the EU. North Cyprus, occupied by Turkey since 1974, has declared itself to be the Turkish Republic of North Cyprus, but is recognized internationally only by Turkey. Since 2003 the number of crossing points on the dividing (and UN-administered) Green Line has increased to seven, with two more in the pipeline. Attempts to reunite the island are ongoing, reinvigorated by a new negotiating process introduced in February 2014.

Over 1 million Britons visit Cyprus each year (42 percent of total arrivals) and the fastest growing group of visitors are Russians. Overall, the total arrivals are at a constant increase.

Famous people of Cypriot origin include singers George Michael, Yusuf Islam (Cat Stevens), Peter Andre and Tulisa Contostavlos (N-Dubz), actress Angela Bowie (ex-wife of David), sportspersons Marco Baghdatis (tennis) and Muzzy Izzet (Premiership football), celebrity chef George Calombaris (Masterchef Australia), businessmen Stelios Haji-Ioannou (founder of easyJet) and Asil Nadir (of Polly Peck fame) and artist Tracey Emin.

Where to go

One of the great advantages of Cyprus as a holiday destination is that it’s a relatively small island offering a huge variety of attractions, scenery and activities linked together by an excellent road system. Wherever you stay, you can get to pretty much anywhere else in a day.

The vast majority of tourists begin their trip on the narrow coastal strip in the south, which hosts the main towns of Larnaka, Lemesos and Pafos, each with a historic old town, promenade and popular beaches. Beyond them, to the north, foothills rise to the island’s main mountain range, the Troodos Massif, dotted with villages, churches and monasteries. To the west of the island is a plateau covered in vineyards, the great wilderness forest of Tiliria and the stark empty beauty of the Akamas Peninsula. North of the Troodos (and lying within Turkish-occupied north Cyprus), lie the more impressive but less lofty mountains of the Kyrenia Range. Beyond here is the even narrower northern coastal strip on which Girne/Kyrenia is by far the most important and most beautiful town. To the east is the broad and largely flat Mesaorian Plain on which stands the island’s divided capital Nicosia, known today as Lefkosia (south) or Lefkoş (north); further east is the crumbling port city of Gazimağusa/Famagusta, with its range of pretty and not-so-pretty ruins, and the long, tapering Karpaz Peninsula, home to wild donkeys and far-flung villages.

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Coastal views from Gazimağusa town

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For traditional sun, sea and sand holidays, you have an extensive choice – in the south, Protaras and Agia Napa east of Larnaka, the beaches either side of Lemesos, Pafos and its satellite Coral Bay – which are packed with resorts offering a range of activities; in the north, the coast either side of Girne and north of Gazimağusa offers more of the same. For smaller hotels with a more individual character, try the north coast around Polis and the Akamas Peninsula, or the hill villages of the Troodos Mountains which offer traditional homes converted into guest houses.

For a taste of Cyprus’s newly developed restaurant scene head to Lemesos, the island’s gastronomic capital. Lefkosia also boasts several cool cafés and Cyprus’s best shopping, while the northern towns of Girne and Gazimağusa provide a relaxed harbour-side ambience. Wine lovers are particularly well-catered for by the wine museum and wine festival in Lemesos, and by six well-signposted wine routes in Pafos and Lemesos districts.

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Tomb of the Kings, Paphos

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Cyprus has a rich history, and virtually every region has its Roman (or earlier) ruin, its Byzantine church, a Crusader castle or Ottoman mosque, plus some grand British colonial architecture. Standout sights include the prehistoric villages at Tenta and Choirokoitia, the ancient cities of Kourion and Salamis, crusader castles such as those at Kolossi and Lemesos in the south and St Hilarion, Buffavento and Kantara in the north, monasteries like Kykkos and Machairas, and the beautiful UNESCO World Heritage painted churches of the Troodos Mountains. Ottoman architecture can be admired in Lefkoşa’s Büyük Han, and Muslim mosques in Hala Sultan Tekke in Larnaka or Hazret Omer Tekke east of Girne. For nature and the great outdoors, the Troodos and Kyrenia mountains offer superb climbing, hiking and cycling, the seas around the island provide stimulating dive sites, and the beaches at Lara Bay in the west and Algadi in the northeast are great for turtle-watching. Golfers will enjoy the fine courses in Pafos and Girne. Across the island look out for the colourful religious and village festivals that take place in spring, summer and autumn.

In terms of what to avoid, be aware that certain southern resorts (especially parts of Lemesos) can be quite sleazy (dominated, it’s said, by the Russian mafia), with dubious gentlemen’s clubs and sex workers operating openly in the streets. North Cyprus has also developed a reputation for vice and more obviously gambling; driven by Turkish organized crime, its dozens of casinos attract not only Turks from the mainland but also, perhaps surprisingly, hedonists from the south.

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Kato Drys village

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When to go

The tourist season in Cyprus lasts from April to October. During this time there should be no trouble getting flights and hotels; all the attractions, restaurants and so on will be open, and there should be numerous activities and festivals to keep you occupied. The downside is, of course, overcrowding and inflated prices. Given a choice, try to avoid the fierce August heat. If high summer is unavoidable, make sure your hotel/car has air conditioning. The autumn, too, can be remarkably hot and humid, so don’t bank on cool, pleasant weather in September or even October. The best time to visit Cyprus, as a tourist, hiker, cyclist or lover of nature, has got to be the spring, when skies are blue, the air is warm and balmy, the uplands are a luxuriant green, the streams and reservoirs are full of water, migrating birds fill the air and there are wild flowers everywhere. To further refine your choice, try if possible to be in Cyprus during the Greek Easter – it’s a major celebration in the Orthodox calendar, and there are colourful events going on in towns and villages across the island. Much of this advice applies to the north as well as the south, though festivals will in general be Muslim rather than Christian, and the north coast can be cooler than the rest of the island thanks to mountain breezes from the Kyrenia Range. During winter your experience of Cypriot life is likely to be far more authentic and less touristy, but a lot of places will be shut, and the weather will be more unsettled and even quite cold. That said, during the winter you can head to the slopes to enjoy the island’s limited skiing opportunities.

Average monthly maximum temperatures

Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec

Coastal (Lemesos)

Max ºC 17 17 19 22 25 29 31 31 29 27 22 18

Max ºF 63 62 66 80 77 84 88 88 84 81 72 65

Inland (Lefkosia)

Max ºC 15 16 19 24 29 34 37 37 33 29 22 17

Max ºF 60 60 66 75 85 94 99 98 92 84 72 63

Hilly areas (Agros)

Max ºC 10 11 14 19 24 29 32 32 28 24 17 12

Max ºF 51 51 58 66 75 84 89 89 83 75 63 54

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Author picks

Our author recommendations don’t end here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the ê symbol.

Our intrepid author has visited every corner of Cyprus, north and south, to bring you some unique travelling experiences, from the white sandy beaches of the coast to the forest hiking trails of the mountain heights. These are some of his personal favourites.

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Ruins of ancient Kourion

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Spectacular ruins On headlands high above the azure Mediterranean, the Palace of Vouni in the north (see page 180) and Ancient Kourion in the south (see page 98) take some beating.

Unexpected pleasures The naive sculptures and paintings of Costas Argyrou in the village of Mazotos (see page 80) are a delight. Don’t miss, also, the quirky folk museums housed in many Cypriot villages: two of the best are to be found in Agia Varvara, south of Lefkosia (see page 155), and Steni, south of Polis (see page 124).

Waterfall walk The Kaledonia Trail in the lofty Troodos Mountains (see page 130) takes you to the highest waterfall on the island – a welcome escape from the heat.

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Baklava, a sweet Cypriot pastry dessert

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Castle heaven St Hilarion (see page 172), with its sheer wow factor, is one of the island’s highlights (and busiest sights), while little-visited Buffavento Castle (see page 174) can’t be beaten for atmosphere.

Marvellous marinas Small boat harbours, often hosting a colourful collection of fishing vessels and lined with seafood restaurants are a pleasure to visit. Try low-key Lakki (see page 123) or picturesque Potamos Liopetriou (see page 74).

People-watching Cyprus is a great place for sipping a frappe (iced coffee) and watching the world go by. Try Gazimağusa’s central square (see page 180), Lemesos’s newly remodelled town centre (see page 89), the cafés around stunning Bellapais Abbey (see page 175), or Lefkosa’s renovated Büyük Han (see page 163).

Sweet treats Cypriots have a notoriously sweet tooth – try the local version of Turkish Delight, loukoumia, on sale in Geroskipou (see page 115), unbeatable ice cream at McKenzie Beach in Larnaka (see page 68) or heavenly baklava at Petek in Gazimağusa (see page 185).

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20

things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything that Cyprus has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows is a selective and subjective taste of the island’s highlights: superb ancient and religious sites, unforgettable scenery and a variety of activities. All highlights are colour-coded by chapter and have a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more.

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1 North coast beaches

See page 188

Cyprus has hundreds of beaches, though arguably the finest – such as Golden Sands – are strung along the north coast and Karpaz Peninsula.

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2 Wine tasting

See pages 92 and 97

Follow one of six wine-tasting routes, drop into the Cyprus Wine Museum or throw yourself into the bacchanal of the Lemesos Wine Festival.

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3 Bellapais

See page 175

Made famous by Lawrence Durrell, who once lived here, Bellapais is beautifully set around its medieval monastery.

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4 Turtle-watching

See pages 119 and 172

In both the south and north of the island are beaches which are some of the last Mediterranean nesting places of green and loggerhead turtles.

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5 Girne (Kyrenia)

See page 166

Undoubtedly the most picturesque port on the island, with a perfect harbour backed by the majestic Kyrenia Mountains.

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6 Lemesos Restaurants

See page 95

The south’s great multicultural port is developing a reputation as the gourmet capital of the island.

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7 Painted churches of the Troodos Mountains

See page 134

These beautifully painted wooden churches have been granted UNESCO World Heritage status.

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8 Omodos

See page 102

A wonderful hill village boasting not only a winery but also a pretty, cobbled central square, a venerable monastery, and a range of restaurants and shops.

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9 St Hilarion

See page 172

A fantastical castle whose crumbling walls, meandering steps and ruined buildings blend into the craggy heights upon which it is built, offering spectacular views of the coast and mountains.

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10 Kykkos monastery

See page 134

Of the dozens of monasteries in Cyprus, Kykkos, though not the oldest, is the most captivating.

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11 The Akamas Peninsula

See page 119

With no main roads, few people and a spectacular coastline, this area is a refreshing contrast to the more developed and crowded parts of the island.

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12 Ancient Salamis

See page 185

In an idyllic setting lapped by the sea, ruined Salamis is at once one of the most impressive and most significant archeological sites anywhere on the island.

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13 Mouflon

See page 125

The impressively horned and increasingly rare mouflon, a subspecies of a wild sheep found across the Middle East, can be seen at Stavros tis Psokas in the Tilirian forest.

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14 Diving

See page 70

The wreck of the Zenobia, a modern car ferry which sank in mysterious circumstances off Larnaka, is one of the Mediterranean’s premier dive sites.

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15 The Cyprus Museum

See page 148

The best museum in Cyprus, just outside the walls of Lefkosia, containing treasures from across the island and the ages.

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16 Hiking

See page 51

Cyprus has some top-quality hiking trails, particularly in the Troodos Massif – even in high summer, the altitude makes for a pleasant walking climate.

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17 Café culture

See page 48

From small village kafenía occupied by old men sipping strong Greek coffee to smart Lefkosia establishments packed with the young and stylish, the imbibing of caffeine and its associated rituals flourish across the island.

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18 Pafos Mosaics

See page 109

These stunningly vivid mosaics give an insight into the life of the Roman elite on the island.

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19 Gazimağusa (Famagusta)

See page 180

One of Cyprus’s great cities, where modern life takes place among ruins generated by the Ottoman siege of the city over four centuries ago.

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20 Hala Sultan Tekke

See page 68

A perfectly proportioned mosque, sitting among elegant palm trees on the edge of Larnaka’s blinding-white salt lake.

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Itineraries

Create your own itinerary with Rough Guides. Whether you’re after adventure or a family-friendly holiday, we have a trip for you, with all the activities you enjoy doing and the sights you want to see. All our trips are devised by local experts who get the most out of the destination. Visit www.roughguides.com/trips to chat with one of our travel agents.

Despite its relatively compact size, Cyprus rewards those with a sense of wanderlust. Within an hour’s drive you can leave the beach and find yourself exploring a cool mountain monastery or wandering the streets of an ancient Roman city. The following itineraries can all be done within a fortnight, giving you a taste of both sides of the island.

THE GRAND TOUR

Two weeks in Cyprus and not sure where to start? Our Grand Tour puts you on the right track.

1 Larnaka Home to the island’s biggest airport, Larnaka is the inevitable starting point for many visitors to Cyprus. However, its elegant promenade, beautiful Agios Lazaros cathedral, ancient ruins, and a vibrant resort are reason to linger. See page 64

2 Lemesos Cyprus’s second city, with a reputation for great restaurants, has transformed itself recently into the definition of laidback Mediterranean living. See page 89

3 The Troodos Mountains Small villages, lovely monasteries and churches, cool mountain air, the Troodos Massif offers a startling contrast to the more hectic coast. See page 126

4 Pafos Known for its family-friendly resorts, Pafos has, among the hotels, shops and restaurants, a pretty harbour, some world-class historical monuments and a fascinating hinterland of small villages. See page 107

5 Girne (Kyrenia) The most beautiful harbour town on the island, and a good introduction to life in north Cyprus, Girne has a stunning castle, a relaxed atmosphere and offers wonderful days out to St Hilarion Castle and Bellapais Abbey. See page 166

6 Nicosia (Lefkosia/Lefkoşa) Cyprus’s capital, with a wealth of monuments, museums and good shopping and eating, offers a taste of both north and south Cyprus – you can cross from one side to the other in a matter of minutes. See pages 140 and 159

7 Gazimağusa (Famagusta) An ancient port city defined by its elegantly ruined old town, pounded by the Ottomans in 1571. Nearby are the magnificent ruins of Ancient Salamis and also the unsettling sight of Varosha, derelict since 1974. See page 180

EAST CYPRUS

East Cyprus, particularly Larnaka district, boasts some of the island’s finest beaches, liveliest resorts and several crossing points to the north.

1 Agia Napa Once the archetypal 18–30 resort, Agia Napa has morphed into a more sophisticated destination with a surprising smattering of museums, street art and other attractions. See page 71

2 Larnaka Worth a day or two for its promenade, town centre beach and marina, and also its old fort, Pierides museum and Agios Lazaros Church. See page 64

3 Nicosia (Lefkosia/Lefkoşa) Take a walking tour of both north and south sides of the city, then drive across the Green Line and north to Girne, stopping off at St Hilarion Castle on the way. See pages 140 and 159

4 The Karpaz Peninsula Explore the villages and small-scale sights of the Karpaz Peninsula. Look out for its wild donkeys, and press on to lonely Apostolos Andreas monastery, both the easternmost and the northernmost point on the island. See page 188

5 Salamis You could spend an entire day exploring the ancient city of Salamis, the nearby Royal Tombs, Monastery of St Barnabas and the ruins of Enkomi-Alasia – all within a couple of kilometres of each other. See page 185

6 Gazimağusa (Famagusta) A modern city with an old town at its heart, a place for strolling, sitting in cafés, and admiring the historical ruins. See page 180

7 Derynia Cross back into the republic at Strovilia, drive around the Kokkinochoria (red villages), and drop into the Cultural Centre of Occupied Famagusta to view the ruins of Varosha on the outskirts of Gazimağusa, a ghost town abandoned since the invasion of 1974. See page 79

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WEST CYPRUS

The west side of the island presents untouched wilderness, lively resorts and some of the island’s most important archeological sites.

1 Pafos With an airport second in importance only to Larnaka, Pafos is the best place to start a tour of the west. Don’t miss the town’s spectacular UNESCO-listed Roman mosaics, important early Christian remains, eerie Tombs of the Kings or, just to the southeast, the ruins of Palaipafos and pretty Petra tou Romiou, the birthplace of Aphrodite. See page 107

2 Polis Driving from Pafos to Polis, take time to look at the Monastery of Agios Neofytos, Pafos Zoo, and the numerous villages, known for their traditions and their wine, in between. Polis is also the gateway to the Akamas Peninsula. See page 120

3 Kato Pyrgos Having driven northeast around Chrysochou Bay, through the villages of Pomos and Pachyammos, stay for a while in quiet Kato Pyrgos, from where you can explore the forests of Tiliria. See page 124

4 Vouni and Soli Cross the Green Line into north Cyprus at Limnitis/Yesilirmak, and take time to look first at the remains of the Palace of Vouni, then of Soli. Continue to Güzelyurt, an unpretentious market town with an interesting museum. See pages 180 and 178

5 The northern Troodos After Güzelyurt, cross back into the south at Zodeia/Astromeritis and head up into the northern Troodos regions of Marathasa and Solea, staying perhaps in Kakopetria. Head south to the coastal motorway, then west to Pafos Airport and your flight home. See pages 133 and 135

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Basics

Getting there

Although the bulk of foreign visitors to Cyprus arrive on package tours, you can find competitive deals by arranging your own flights and accommodation. The republic has two international airports (Larnaka and Pafos), and there are frequent direct flights to both these airports from London, Manchester and numerous regional airports in the UK. Other major hubs for Cyprus include Athens, Amsterdam and Brussels. Turkish-occupied north Cyprus (the TRNC) has one international airport at Ercan to which there are no direct flights other than through Turkey. A ferry service also links Turkey with north Cyprus.

Since Cyprus is a smallish island, and has an excellent motorway system joining all the main towns and holiday areas, price can be as much of a factor as transfer times in choosing your airport. However, Larnaka is the biggest and busiest, and therefore offers the widest choice of flights and arrival times and links with the rest of the island.

There are no direct flights to Cyprus from the US, Canada, South Africa, Australia or New Zealand, so journeys involve at least one change of plane, often in London, Athens or Dubai.

Due to the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic visitors should carefully check current travel restrictions before booking a holiday to Cyprus.

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Goats crossing, Troodos foothills

Suzanne Porter/Rough Guides

Flights from the UK and Ireland

Many British airports offer flights to Larnaka, Pafos or both, though some are restricted to the summer months. Flight times to Cyprus from London are usually around 4hr 30min. Flights from Ireland require at least one, and often two, stops, and therefore take the best part of a day. Add another 40min for flights to Ercan in north Cyprus which must touch down in Turkey first. Fares can vary enormously, coming in as low as £150 return during low season, but soaring in summer to £300 or more, though with an average of £250–300. Prices can also jump during the Greek Orthodox Easter (not always the same as the Western European Easter) as expats flood home for this most important of festivals.

A better kind of travel

At Rough Guides we are passionately committed to travel. We believe it helps us understand the world we live in and the people we share it with – and of course tourism is vital to many developing economies. But the scale of modern tourism has also damaged some places irreparably, and climate change is accelerated by most forms of transport, especially flying. All Rough Guides’ flights are carbon-offset, and every year we donate money to a variety of environmental charities.

To Larnaka and Pafos

British Airways http://britishairways.com. London Heathrow and Manchester to Larnaka (and Pafos in the summer).

easyJet http://easyjet.com. Larnaka from London Gatwick and Pafos from London Gatwick, Luton, Manchester, Bristol and Edinburgh.

First Choice Airways http://firstchoice.co.uk. Pafos from Gatwick, Manchester, Birmingham, Glasgow, Doncaster (all year). Larnaka from Bristol, Gatwick, Manchester and Newcastle (April–Oct).

Jet2 http://jet2.com. Flights to Larnaka and Pafos from East Midlands, Manchester, Leeds Bradford, Newcastle, Glasgow, and from Edinburgh to Pafos.

Ryanair http://ryanair.com. Pafos from Stansted.

Thomas Cook Airlines http://thomascook.com. Larnaka and Pafos from London Gatwick and most regional airports: Aberdeen, Belfast, Birmingham, Bristol, Cardiff, East Midlands, Glasgow, Leeds Bradford, Manchester and Newcastle.

TUI http://tui.co.uk. To Larnaka and Pafos from London Gatwick and Stansted plus many UK regional airports: Aberdeen, Belfast, Birmingham, Bristol, Cardiff, Doncaster, East Midlands, Exeter, Glasgow, Leeds Bradford, Manchester and Newcastle. Also from Dublin.

To Ercan (North Cyprus)

Pegasus http://flypgs.com. Gatwick or Stansted to Ercan via Istanbul.

Turkish Airlines http://turkishairlines.com. Ercan via Istanbul from London Gatwick and Heathrow plus Manchester, Birmingham and Edinburgh.

Flights from the US and Canada

There are no direct flights from the US and Canada to Cyprus. North American visitors must therefore travel via London, Athens, or other European hub airports. Numerous airlines offer one- or two-stop flights, and round-trip fares can vary between US$650 and US$3000 from New York and US$1100 to US$380 from Los Angeles, though the cheapest fares tend to be from the smaller airports – Newark, New Jersey, for example, has fares that start at around US$630. Flights from Toronto, Montreal and Vancouver start at under CAN$1180. The best deals from North America to Cyprus seem to be from American Airlines (http://americanairlines.co.uk), Austrian Airlines (http://austrian.com), Delta (http://delta.com), Air Canada (http://aircanada.com), Lufthansa (http://lufthansa.com) and British Airways (http://britishairways.com).

Flights from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

Travelling from Australia, New Zealand or South Africa to Cyprus involves at least one stopover, usually via a Middle Eastern hub such as Dubai. The cheapest route from South Africa is Johannesburg via Dubai. Emirates (http://emirates.com), code-sharing with BA and Qantas, appear to offer the most competitive deals.

Ferries

Since concerns about international terrorism closed its ferry ports back in 2001, the only viable way of visiting the south, unless you have access to an ocean-going yacht, is by air. However, there are several sea routes between the Turkish mainland and north Cyprus, with passenger-only ferries being a lot quicker than car ferries: Mersin–Gazimağusa (Mon, Wed & Fri, with return trips on Tues, Thurs & Sun); Tasucu–Girne (daily); Alanya–Girne (Mon & Thurs).

Travel agents and tour operators

General travel agents

North South Travel http://northsouthtravel.co.uk. Friendly, competitive travel agency, offering discounted fares worldwide. Profits are used to support projects in the developing world, especially the promotion of sustainable tourism.

STA Travel http://statravel.co.uk. Worldwide specialists in independent travel; also student IDs, travel insurance, car rental, rail passes, and more. Good discounts for students and under-26s.

USIT Ireland http://usit.ie. Ireland’s main student and youth travel specialists.

Cyprus specialists

Amathus Holidays http://amathusholidays.co.uk. Hotel packages for all the main resorts, including Lakki, Polis and Pissouri.

Cyplon Holidays http://cyplon.co.uk. Wide choice of resort packages across the south.

Cyprus Active http://cyprusactive.com. Range of activities – walking, cycling, horseriding, paragliding, scuba diving, cooking.

Cyprus Villages http://cyprusvillages.com.cy. Offers not only traditional accommodation, but also activity-based holidays including cycling, walking and yoga.

Planet Holidays www.planet-holidays.co.uk. Bespoke holidays, honeymoon choices and even wedding venues - if you're in for a beach wedding.

Sun Island Tours http://sunislandtours.com.au. Australian-based company specializing in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean holidays including packages to the most popular Cypriot holiday areas.

Sunvil http://sunvil.co.uk. The premier tour operator for Cyprus, offering mainly self-catering villa and agrotourism holidays.

The north/south divide and the TRNC

After its occupation by the Turkish army, the north declared itself to be the Turkish Federated State of Cyprus before unilaterally declaring independence in 1983 as the Turkish Republic of North Cyprus. This title has no international validity, and is strongly resented by the Republic of Cyprus, the only legitimate government of the whole island. For ease of reference we have largely referred to the TRNC as the north and the rest of the island, that controlled by the republic government, as the south. Where the title TRNC is used it is for convenience, and implies no endorsement of the Turkish occupation.

Getting around

The bulk of visitors to Cyprus rely on tour-company coaches to get around. Independent travellers have a choice of renting vehicles, catching buses, or taking taxis. For the more intrepid, walking and cycling are also options. The transport system in the north is nowhere near as well developed as that of the south, and your best bet here is to rent a car or book a tour.

SOUTH CYPRUS DISTANCE CHART (KM)

Lefkosia

Lemesos 86 Lemesos

Pafos 149 68 Pafos

Larnaka 45 71 139 Larnaka Troodos

Troodos Resort 71 45 113 111 Resort Agia

Agia Napa 80 106 175 41 152 Napa

Polis 176 98 35 165 148 197 Polis

Paralimni 83 110 179 45 156 9 201

(Protaras)

NORTH CYPRUS DISTANCE CHART (KM)

Lefkoşa

Girne 26 Girne

Gazimağusa 61 73 Gazimağusa

Güzelyurt 40 48 94 Güzelyurt

Dipkarpaz 123 133 80 158

By bus

Following reorganization in 2010, the south now has a good urban and intercity bus system. Buses are modern, usually on time, and although run by different companies in each district (Zinonas in Larnaka, OSEA in the Agia Napa/Protaras area – sometimes called free Famagusta, EMEL in Lemesos, OSYPA in Pafos, and OSEL in Lefkosia). Each company has its own contact number and website: Lefkosia (http://osel.com.cy), Lemesos (http://limassolbuses.com), Larnaka (http://zinonasbuses.com), Pafos (http://pafosbuses.com), Gazimağusa (http://osea.com.cy). You can also access information about Intercity Buses and airport shuttles on http://intercity-buses.com. A very useful combined website at http://cyprusbybus.com pulls all the information together. Rural buses, especially in the Troodos Mountains, are less frequent and less reliable.

Bus services in the north are unreliable, don’t seem to follow a timetable, will often wait until the bus is full before setting off, and are little used by visitors. Indeed, native Turkish Cypriots rarely use them either, so you’re likely to find yourself sitting next to Turkish mainland settlers or Turkish army personnel.

By car and motorcycle

The best and most efficient way of getting around Cyprus is to rent a car or, if you’re not put off by their poor safety record, motorcycles, quad bikes, scooters or beach buggies. Car rental rates are reasonable, but it’s worth prebooking and shopping around. And if you intend exploring the remoter parts of the island, it is well worth splashing out on a 4WD, especially as normal rental agreements often exclude driving on dirt roads. There are plenty of filling stations. Bear in mind, though, that some may be closed in August, so it pays to keep your tank as full as you can.

Motorways (prefix A) and main roads (prefix B) are of good quality, but side roads, especially in the mountains, might be unsurfaced. Visitors from the UK will feel particularly at home because driving is on the left, cars are right-hand drive, and there’s a whole host of familiar street furniture, from Belisha beacons to zebra crossings. Speed limits (strictly enforced) are as follows: motorways max 100km/h, min 65km/h. Unless otherwise indicated, main roads have a limit of 80km/h; built-up areas 50km/h.

Parking is free in many villages, while town-centre car parks charge a token amount for half a day. On-street parking in major towns is meter controlled. Parking is free on Saturday afternoons, Sundays and public holidays.

Driving in the north is similar to driving in the south: cars keep to the left, signs are international, there are plenty of petrol stations, road signs are usually in kilometres, though sometimes in miles. Because development has been patchy, you might well come across bottlenecks where good new roads disgorge traffic onto narrow unimproved ones.

Driving tips

Contrary to popular belief, Cypriots are usually courteous drivers. However, some drive very fast, while others, especially in rural areas, drive insanely slowly. While the fatality rate on Cyprus’s roads is higher than the UK’s (particularly low) figure, it still compares well with, for example, Greece and the US.

Alcohol limits are low – 50mg of alcohol per 100ml of blood (compared with 80mg per 100ml in the UK) – and punishment for exceeding them severe. The only way to be sure of not falling foul of the law is not to drink at all if you’re driving.

Children must use restraints appropriate to their height and weight. In taxis, they can use rear-seat adult seat belts if that’s all that’s available. Rear-facing baby seats must not be used in front seats protected by air bags, unless the air bags have been deactivated.

Jaywalking in towns seems to be endemic, often because the pavement is obstructed by telegraph poles, restaurant tables and chairs, eccentrically parked vehicles and so on.

You’ll often see several people crammed onto a single moped – treat them with caution.

Donkeys (often heavily laden) and goats can be a hazard on country roads.

Don’t cross double lines to overtake.

Don’t acknowledge courtesy by holding out your hand palm outwards. This is, in Cyprus as in Greece, a very rude gesture.

For roadside assistance call the Cyprus Automobile Association (22313233, http://caa.com.cy). In case of accidents, call 112.

FIVE GREAT DRIVES

For such a small island, Cyprus offers a remarkable variety of exhilarating drives, from the ups and downs of the Troodos Massif to the off-road excitement of the Akamas Peninsula.

Lemesos to Pafos Take the old road B6 west from Lemesos, first through the Home Counties tidiness of the British Akrotiri base, then past the castle at Kolissi and the ancient sites at Kourion and the Sanctuary of Apollon Ylatis, to the beautiful coast at Petra tou Romiou.

Pafos to Pano Panagia A steep climb up from Pafos, along the E606, brings you to rolling upland vineyards, pretty villages and monasteries, and the birthplace of Archbishop Makarios III.

The Akamas Peninsula