VALAIS WHERE GLACIERS WHISPER
The Matterhorn stands tall on the Swiss-Italian border, and everyone I meet in Valais is keen to assure me that it only looks so arresting from this side: the view from Italy, apparently, is pretty ordinary. Today, wispy clouds wrap around its summit, and my guide, Amadé, smiles mischievously: “When that happens, we like to say the Italians are smoking again”.
Scaling the peak is an arduous but exhilarating task that involves starting at dawn — but as it’s now mid-afternoon, we’re heading in the opposite direction, picking our way downhill to
