Lonely Planet Greece

By Alexis Averbuck, Rebecca Hall, Paula Hardy and 9 more

Lonely Planet's Greece is our most comprehensive guide that extensively covers all the country has to offer, with recommendations for both popular and lesser-known experiences. Explore the elegant Acropolis, climb to the magnificent Meteora, and experience the vibrant culture of Athens; all with your trusted travel companion.

Inside Lonely Planet's Greece Travel Guide:

Lonely Planet's Top Picks - a visually inspiring collection of the destination's best experiences and where to have them

Itineraries help you build the ultimate trip based on your personal needs and interests

Local insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - whether it's history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, politics

Eating and drinking - get the most out of your gastronomic experience as we reveal the regional dishes and drinks you have to try

Toolkit - all of the planning tools for solo travelers, LGBTQIA+ travelers, family travelers and accessible travel

Colour maps and images throughout

Language - essential phrases and language tips

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Covers Athens, Peloponnese, Central Greece, Northern Greece, Saronic Gulf Islands, Cyclades, Crete, Dodecanese, Northeastern Aegean Islands, Evia, the Sporades and Ionian Islands

eBook Features: (Best viewed on tablet devices and smartphones)

Downloadable PDF and offline maps prevent roaming and data charges

Effortlessly navigate and jump between maps and reviews

Add notes to personalise your guidebook experience

Seamlessly flip between pages

Bookmarks and speedy search capabilities get you to key pages in a flash

Embedded links to recommendations' websites

Zoom-in maps and images

Inbuilt dictionary for quick referencing

About Lonely Planet:

Lonely Planet, a Red Ventures Company, is the world's number one travel guidebook brand. Providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveler since 1973, Lonely Planet reaches hundreds of millions of travelers each year online and in print and helps them unlock amazing experiences. Visit us at lonelyplanet.com and join our community of followers on Facebook (facebook.com/lonelyplanet), Twitter (@lonelyplanet), Instagram (instagram.com/lonelyplanet), and TikTok (@lonelyplanet).

'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveler's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' Fairfax Media (Australia)

• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Sep 1, 2023
• ISBN: 9781837581856

Book preview

Front CoverLonely Planet Logo

Greece

MapHow To Use This eBook

PLAN YOUR TRIP

The Journey Begins Here

Greece Map

Our Picks

Regions & Cities

When to Go

Meet the Greeks

Get Prepared for Greece

The Food Scene

Itineraries

The Outdoors

The Guide

Athens

Find Your Way

Plan Your Days

Acropolis, Filopappou Hill & Thisio

Syntagma & Plaka

Monastiraki & Psyrri

Gazi, Keramikos & Metaxourgio

Omonia, Exarhia & Kypseli

Kolonaki & Hilton

Mets & Pangrati

Neos Kosmos, Kallithea & Palaio Faliro

Beyond Athens

Peloponnese

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Corinth

Nafplio

Monemvasia

Olympia

Sparta

Kalamata

Central Greece

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Delphi

Karpenisi

Meteora

Pelion

Northern Greece

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Thessaloniki

Halkidiki

Mt Olympus

Ioannina

Pindus Mountain Range

Kavala

Saronic Gulf Islands

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Aegina

Hydra

Spetses

Cyclades

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Santorini (Thira)

Ios

Folegandros

Milos

Sifnos

Serifos

Syros

Andros

Tinos

Mykonos

Paros

Naxos

Amorgos

Crete

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Hania

Rethymno

Iraklio

Agios Nikolaos

Dodecanese

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Rhodes Town

Symi

Tilos

Nisyros

Kos Town

Astypalea

Kastellorizo

Kalymnos

Leros

Patmos

Halki

Karpathos

Kasos

Lipsi

Northeastern Aegean Islands

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Myrina (Limnos)

Molyvos (Lesvos)

Mastihohoria

Pythagorio (Samos)

Armenistes & Rahes (Ikaria)

The Sporades & Evia

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Skopelos

Skiathos

Skyros

Ionian Islands

Find Your Way

Plan Your Time

Corfu Town

Paxi & Antipaxi

Kefallonia

Zakynthos

Kythira

Toolkit

Arriving

Getting Around

Island-Hopping

Money

Accommodation

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food & Drink

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Accessible Travel

Nuts & Bolts

Language

Storybook

A History of Greece in 20 Places

Greek Wine Through the Ages

Winds of History Bring Human Waves

The Living Cult of Dionysos

Greece's Maritime Heritage

Greek Cinema: A Century of Creativity & Chaos

Reimagining Athens

Cats of Greece

This Book

GREECE

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

shutterstock_1563002491jpg

Kamini, Hydra | LISANDRO LUIS TRARBACH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The water swirls cobalt, viridian, teal, cerulean and lambent jade. Always a challenge to describe in language, to express the feeling of Greece I take to my painting. Over the years, as I have lived and explored here I have fallen in love with the mountains, the small villages – each of its own making and living – and the people. A way of life that calls me out of the maelstrom of gadgets and timetables that technology can bring and into my experience. Each new place brings fresh eyes and a feeling of a new heart: like walking a lane in the village of Tholaria in Amorgos as the blazing full moon sings up over the horizon. Greece goes way beyond the postcards and bucket lists and straight into your heart. If you let it.

Alexis Averbuck

@alexisaverbuck

My favourite experience is diving off the warm rocks of Hydra and the moment I hit the water and swim deep into the band of cool water beneath.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our writers and experts choose the places which, for them, define Greece.

jpg

NATALIYA NAZAROVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Wandering Monemvasia is a unique experience. It’s Europe’s oldest continually inhabited castle town and entering through its stone archway shows you remnants of invasions by Crusaders, Venetians and Ottomans reflected in the architecture. Similar castle towns can be found throughout Greece, proving how much more there is to discover beyond beaches.

Rebecca Hall

@BeyondHex

Rebecca is a Greece-based travel and culture writer and the author of short novel and travel memoir Girl Gone Greek.

jpg

Nejdet Duzen/shutterstock ©

Like Sicily, Patmos is an island that encapsulates centuries. Magnificently wild, it is also deeply cultured with a thriving monastery. The Apostle John received his Revelations here and the island has been ruled by the Ottomans, Venetians, Russians and Italians. As such, it is a cultural hybrid reminding us that the Mediterranean is a theatre of exchange rather than a dividing body of water.

Paula Hardy

@paulahardy

Paula is a travel journalist focused on the Mediterranean, and the author of a book on the cultural history of Libya.

jpg

HERACLES KRITIKOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Once I spent some time on the vast lagoons of Messolongi, I understood why locals have such an easy-going demeanour. Fishers maintain centuries-old sustainable methods to retrieve their catch and live in harmony with some 290 bird species, including flamingos. Youth-led organisations educate younger generations about their heritage while promoting ecotourism.

Helen Iatrou

@heleniatrou

Helen is a journalist, travel and yachting writer and sailor.

jpg

LEOKS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

jpg

Astypalea is a wondrous island. Far-flung in the Aegean waters, its beauty is to be enjoyed anew each time. With a diversity of beaches to explore and find peace on, quality cuisine, an array of great hikes and a bustling nightlife, it’s truly one of a kind. Take your time to savour this beautiful island, and return over and over again.

Vesna Maric

@vesnamarx

Vesna is a travel writer, essayist and literary author, with a memoir and novel in print.

jpg

ANASTASIOS71/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Plaka, the 'old town' of Athens with the Acropolis hill looming above and the narrow alleys lined with neoclassical houses, is always bustling with locals and tourists while also providing a calm respite from the frenzied rhythm of the rest of the city. This is my favourite spot for a leisurely stroll, an outdoor drink or a snack on a nice bright day.

Vangelis Koronakis

@the_passenger

Vangelis was born and raised in Athens where he works as a web editor.

jpg

PIT STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Tiny, roofless and shiny white, the church of Panagia Kakaviotissa in Limnos looks like a pearl placed on the mountaintop, half-covered by a grotto. The view is quintessential island Greece – whimsical lunar terrain and the endless expanse of the sea. Divinity, Christian or pagan, seems to hover silently right above your head.

Leonid Ragozin

@leonidragozin

Leonid alternates between travel writing and political journalism. His book about the conflict between Russia and Ukraine came out in Norway in 2022.

jpg

VIACHESLAV LOPATIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Acropolis Museum sums up what contemporary Athens is all about: the ancient and modern in a fascinating dialogue. Architect Bernard Tschumi’s remarkable building rests on giant pillars over a meticulously excavated archaeological site. It houses a state-of-the-art museum that honours and sets in context the treasures of the temple citadel opposite.

Simon Richmond

@simonrichmond

Simon is a UK-based freelance writer, editor and photographer with over 25 years of experience creating travel guidebooks.

jpg

DINOSMICHAIL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Mt Olympus is perhaps the most magical place in Greece. Here, after all, is the home of the 12 gods of Olympus, who ruled the mortals below. From the ruins of Dion, to hidden tavernas serving delicious food, to stunning hikes past natural pools and waterfalls, Mt Olympus represents the best of northern Greece.

Sarah Souli

@sgsouli

Sarah is a journalist who writes about politics, travel and culture. She is the author of Moon Guides: Athens and the Greek Islands.

jpg

EGUCHI NAOHIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The alleys of Corfu Town hold a lot of magic for me. Snoozy and atmospheric by day, they conceal sleepy cats, pomegranate trees and washing lines. Then they burst into life at night, with local folk promenading, diners gathering round chequered tablecloths under the trees and tavernas packed with musicians and punters: singing, playing and dancing into the wee hours.

Helena Smith

helenasmith.co.uk

Helena is a writer and photographer and co-runs Wilder, a social enterprise creating space for wildlife in the city.

jpg

DMITRY MORGAN/SHUTTERSTOCK © SARAH SOULI HEADSHOT BY MARCO ARGUELLO ©

The city of Hania in Crete is where I get lost – happily. Its centuries-old alleys and lanes are a labyrinth into the past. Around this corner is a Venetian palace, around that corner is a Roman ruin. I stumble over the ancient stones to the very end of the breakwater that protects the historic port and imagine I can see passing ships from empires famous and forgotten.

Ryan Ver Berkmoes

@ryanverberkmoes

Ryan has explored over 100 countries and has written more than 130 books for Lonely Planet.

Country Map

WIDE OPEN SPACES

Greece is a land of grand spaces, where towering mountains dominate the horizons, and drama fills its windswept coasts – it's the stuff of Homerian tales. No matter your landscape preference, you can find a dose here. From the forested villages of Zagorohoria alongside Vikos Gorge, to the lush springs of Kythira and Santorini's insane crescent of a sunken caldera, Greece will dazzle your mind and awe your soul.

jpg

Vikos Gorge | VALERY BOCMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Nymph-Spotting

Greek nature is imbued with mythical creatures. Keep an eye out for dryads (tree nymphs), oreads (mountain nymphs), naiads (freshwater nymphs) and nereids (sea nymphs), among others.

jpg

MEPSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Magical Pelion

Donkey trails zigzag over rolling, forested hills to quiet, sandy coves and quaint villages on the Pelion Peninsula, the reputed home of the centaurs.

jpg

DANIEL BECKEMEIER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hunting Season

Late August to late February is hunting season in Greece. When hitting the trails, look for signs saying Κυνηγετικός χώρος (hunting area) – many are handmade.

BEST OUTDOORS EXPERIENCES

Blow your mind with the thrilling views of the Santorini crater 1, blazoned with white-cubed minimalist villages full of maximalist life.

Follow ancient trails up the thickly forested slopes of Mt Olympus 2 towards the cloud-covered peak, once the lair of the Ancient Greek pantheon.

Hike Crete’s gorges 3, from spectacular Samaria Gorge to its equally breathtaking and less crowded nearby cousins, such as Agia Irini Gorge.

Be virtuous as well as exalted on green-energy Tilos 4, where bird-watching, beachcombing and hiking all take centre stage.

Tramp ancient paths and descend into the 900m-deep Vikos Gorge 5 in grand Pindos National Park.

AZURE SEAS

Greece is virtually synonymous with beaches – broad sweeps of white sand, grey or even red-pebble coves and black volcanic shores. Summer season is a tradition here, when families return to home islands and vacations are a call for R&R. A siren song for travellers, too, summer means crowds, but also the best swimming of your life.

jpg

Lefkada | SCSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Take a Dive

Greeks at work don't forego the sea – they head out for a voutiá, a quick dive. Early mornings and twilight are perfect for solo swims.

Accessible Beaches

Increasingly, Greece is installing ramps and providing assistive devices and wheels at popular beaches for getting into the sea. Not ubiquitous…but on the rise (check extramilers.eu).

BEST BEACH EXPERIENCES

Impress mind and body with turquoise water and pink sand dunes on Crete's west coast, from Falasarna to Elafonisi 1.

Surrender to the sun and wide stretches of white-pebble beaches on off-the-beaten-track Lefkada 2.

Take the dirt roads of Halkidiki 3 to the peninsula's sandy bays with friendly tavernas and guesthouses.

Try a new beach every day on Naxos 4, where one glossy strand merges into the next.

Jump between the double beaches at Armenistis 5 on tiny Ikaria and look for sea turtles cooling off in the nearby river.

ISLANDS GALORE

Stereotypes don't work on Greek islands. And the marquee names may not always be the best fit for you. Each island has its own character, its own culture, and many have vastly different terrains, weather patterns and histories. So a trip to the islands is an incredible smorgasbord. Sample widely.

Island-Hopping

Within island groups is a perfect opportunity to compare and contrast individual islands. Santorini? Why not try Folegandros, too? Mykonos? Pair it with Naxos or Tinos.

jpg

AERIAL-MOTION/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Historic Centres

Many islands not only have their own local way of life, but have also deeply influenced Greece's history, from Crete, Delos and Corfu to Naxos, Rhodes and Santorini.

jpg

AETHERIAL IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Off-season Islands

If swimming isn't your goal, visiting Greece's islands outside of summer makes for easier access to local culture, a relaxed view into island life and much less expense.

BEST ISLAND EXPERIENCES

Dive deep into all aspects of Greek life on its largest and most diverse island, Crete 1, almost a country unto itself.

Explore beyond grand Corfu to diminutive Paxi 2, where azure waters glisten and pensions hide in olive groves.

Escape from Athens to the brilliantly preserved, car-free island of Hydra 3 for ebullient harbour life and swimming off the rocks.

Entertain the whole family in Paros 4 and Antiparos, where you can mix village strolls with beach play and even nightclub crawls.

Circle the seemingly endless array of beaches on volcanic Milos 5 and quieter neighbouring Kimolos, a gentler option than busy Santorini.

FOOD & WINE ADVENTURES

Greek food has been exported across the world, but there is no way to recreate the delight of eating it where it is produced. Cheeses are made fresh from the mountain and herbs and greens are picked from their slopes. Goats and lambs graze free, while fish and calamari are harvested from the seas. And then, of course, there are the subtly brilliant creative variations on how each region and each chef prepares them.

jpg

Octopus drying in the sun, Santorini. | LKPRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Honey, Honey

Greece's rich honey is a product of native flowers and trees. Many are only available in homemade batches sold locally – look for these in smaller markets.

jpg

IRNBURCH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Seafood Lunch & Siesta

A summertime cultural mainstay is a seafront taverna lunch, with its parade of dips and dishes, followed by a decadent siesta. Embrace it.

jpg

HAKAN TANAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Know your Wines

You'll find Greek wines at supermarkets, but get to know your wine regions to learn how to tell the solid sips from truly delightful treats.

BEST FOOD & WINE EXPERIENCES

Cram as many meals as you can manage into your days in Hania 1, where you can begin with crispy bougatsa and end with fresh seafood.

Village-hop on Tinos 2 to discover some of Greece's best regional food in casual eateries across the island.

Tour volcanic vineyards then taste top assyrtiko white wines and Vinsanto dessert wines at the stellar wineries of Santorini 3.

Savour the Italian-inflected cuisine of the Ionian Islands, on show especially well in charming Corfu Town 4.

Linger in Volos 5, the country's tsipouradhiko capital, where a gulp of fiery tsipouro (distilled spirit) must always be accompanied by a bite of food.

ANCIENT WONDERS

World-renowned ancient sites, some featuring in the greatest tales of all time, the Greek myths, carpet the country. With every layer excavated, another civilisation is revealed. And the architecture and artefacts created to honour the gods – Athena, Poseidon, Apollo and Zeus, to name just a few – remain ready for us to marvel at and explore.

jpg

Ruins, Delos | EMAGA TRAVELS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Treasure Troves

When visiting ancient sites – from Olympia and Delphi to Naxos' Temple of Demeter (pictured) – leave time for their museums, where countless prizes found on-site are protected.

jpg

ALBERTO LOYO/SHUTTERSOTCK ©

Free Entry

Many ancient sites (including those in Athens) offer free entry on the first Sunday of the month (except in July and August) and on local holidays.

jpg

JOKE VAN EEGHEM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Before Sailing to the Islands

Pay homage at the dramatic Temple of Poseidon on Cape Sounion, where panoramic views give you a glimpse of what's to come.

BEST ANCIENT RUIN EXPERIENCES

Wonder at Athens’ beautifully preserved landmark Acropolis 1, with its temples to Athena, and its Ancient Agora, the civic, political and commercial centre.

Sail to the epic sanctuary at Delos 2, the centre of the Cyclades and birthplace of Apollo and Artemis.

Imagine the mysterious Minoan culture on a visit to Crete's marquee site, Knossos 3, and Heraklion Archaeological Museum.

Sprint around the stadium at Ancient Olympia 4, a 3000-year-old sanctuary to sporting glory, which hosted the original Olympic Games.

Listen for the whisper of the oracle at majestic Delphi 5, resting on the slopes of Mt Parnassos with views of the Gulf of Corinth.

VILLAGE LIFE

Greek life has always taken place in the public sphere, whether it's talking politics at the local kafeneio (coffee house) or families gathering in neighbourhood squares while the kids play into the evening. And Greek villages, from seashore to mountain valley, are quintessential places to experience daily life.

Get your Greek in Order

What better place than in an out-of-the-way village to test your Greek? Brush up on a few phrases before you go.

jpg

HERACLES KRITIKOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Where to Go?

Look for the local kafeneio, a cafe or seafood taverna next to a port, or a live-music spot. Then stay a while.

jpg

KITE_RIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Crete is for Villages

If you're headed for Crete, budget extra time to delight in the sheer variety and beauty of its mountain villages, each with their own cuisine and culture.

BEST VILLAGE EXPERIENCES

Wind along vertiginous mountain roads on Amorgos 1 between charming harbours and mountain villages with delicious local cuisine.

Explore Mastihohoria 2, the mastic villages of Chios, each uniquely designed as a fortress against marauders.

Stroll the stone paths of Apiranthos 3, a mountain village in Naxos, which has fascinating textile crafts and top tavernas.

Cross-country ski around Nymfaio 4 in winter, when local mansions-turned-guesthouses become cosy sanctuaries for sampling wines from nearby Naoussa.

Retrace the footsteps of writer and war hero Patrick Leigh Fermor in gorgeous seafront Kardamyli 5, backed by the Taÿgetos Mountains.

PALACES OF CULTURE

If there's one thing Greece has in spades, it's art and culture, and the museums dedicated to their veneration. Any list of places to visit is by definition incomplete. Grand city museums hold priceless artefacts, and yet so, too, does many a humble village collection. Entry prices tend to be low, so explore widely.

jpg

Acropolis Museum, Athens | PHOTOGRAPH © CHRISTIAN RICHTERS, COURTESY OF BERNARD TSCHUMI ARCHITECTS.

Buying Arts & Crafts

Artisans work away across the country's towns and villages, selling pottery, leather wares, olive-wood carvings, paintings and jewellery. Many pair traditional methods with modern designs.

Exquisite Statues

Quietly filling a full block in Exarhia, the National Archaeological Museum is a treasure chest of ancient art from across Greece. Do not miss it.

BEST ARTS & CULTURE EXPERIENCES

Admire ancient sculptures and other finds in the superbly designed galleries of the Acropolis Museum 1.

Learn about the cultivation of the mastic tree at state-of-the-art hilltop Chios Mastic Museum 2.

Browse centuries of Greek painting in Athens' new National Gallery 3.

Imagine the life of a great artist in Hydra at the Studio of Panayiotis Tetsis 4.

Enjoy the gobsmacking frescoes in the superb Minoan collection at the Heraklion Archaeological Museum 5.

WALKING HIGH & LOW

It doesn't matter if you're just getting started or if your weathered boots are covered with the dust of a thousand hikes – in Greece there's a trail for everyone. Rove through the country's national parks to uncover roiling cascades or feel the salt on your skin as you ramble coastal trails. Islands are great for cruising on foot: some, like carless Hydra, require you to walk; others simply beckon with well-marked pathways over sea-view mountains.

jpg

Kato Koufonisi | RAWF8/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Hit the E4 Trail

The long-distance route from Portugal to Cyprus encompasses ancient paths in Greece, like those from Livadi plateau (pictured), near Arahova, down to Delphi, or others near Mystras.

jpg

HERACLES KRITIKOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Explore Widely & Go Deep

The social cooperative Paths of Greece (pathsofgreece.gr) creates new hiking routes across the country, many with cultural links.

jpg

SAMOILA IONUT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Find your Way

A good map is essential as mobile signals are spotty. Most tourist maps are inadequate; the best hiking maps are by Anavasi (anavasi.gr) and Terrain (terrainmaps.gr).

BEST WALKING EXPERIENCES

Hike amid lush foliage and down into the caldera on Nisyros 1 and hear primordial fumaroles hiss like an angry giant.

Skip the car hire and walk the islands of the Small Cyclades 2, from cove to village and back again, where days stretch long and languorous.

Tramp the well-marked trails between isolated beaches and hilltop hamlets on the serene island of Folegandros 3.

Wander through woods and swim under waterfalls on Samos 4, with routes like the seafront Megalo and Micro Seitani trail.

Roam through Greece's national parks, like Iti, Parnassos, Olympus or, easily accessible from Athens, Mt Parnitha National Park 5.

TAKE TO THE WAVES

Cobalt seas and beaches backed by thyme-scented hills call for exploration. All across Greece you can find your favourite: from kitesurfing the wind-whipped channels of the Cyclades to kayaking over sunken villas. Landlubbers can opt for seafront cycling and horse riding, and open-sea swimmers will be spoilt for choice.

jpg

Lefkada | DENIS BELITSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bicycling the Beaches

Many islands now rent fat-tyre or e-bikes, perfect for cruising from beach to beach without a belching motor.

Licence to Boat

Rules vary on whether you can hire a boat with or without a licence. If you have one, bring it along as some places are sticklers.

BEST AQUA EXPERIENCES

Windsurf or kitesurf in the wind-charged channel between Paros 1 and Antiparos, or boat between them.

Ride horses through olive groves and to the beach, then swim in the sea bareback on the Pelion Peninsula 2.

Sea kayak over a submerged Roman villa at the Sunken City of Epidaurus 3.

Kayak between white beaches lapped by unnaturally luminous seas in Kefallonia and Lefkada 4.

Boat through Halkidiki's Diaporos 5, a clutch of uninhabited islands where azure waters beckon.

BUZZING METROPOLISES

Greek cities are magnets for people from all over the country, who come to work, shop and play. Always dynamic, they sizzle with modern innovation, creativity, street life, and dining and partying scenes. Jump from edgy Athens with its epic ancient sites to elegant Thessaloniki and its Ottoman-style architecture, to Iraklio, Crete's vibrant capital.

Architecture

Part of Greece's allure is its well-preserved buildings. Casting your eyes around its cities you’ll find architectural styles ranging from ancient to sleek 21st century.

jpg

NIGEL J. HARRIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Nightlife

When the sun goes down, Greece's cities shift gears. Work is done – it's time to gather at coffee houses, linger at sidewalk cafes for cocktails, and fill nightclubs.

jpg

LORNET/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

What to Wear

In the city, people are polished and the younger crowd is trendy, so pack a few of your more stylish clothes, especially for bars or high-end restaurants.

BEST CITY EXPERIENCES

Boggle your mind at world-class ruins and museums, then sip cocktails and party the night away in vivacious Athens 1.

Shop for vintage tchotchkes and stroll epic plazas in Thessaloniki 2, northern Greece's relaxed seafront city.

Soak up the year-round student life in Hania 3 where an always-gorgeous Venetian harbour is further enhanced by some of Greece's best food.

Embrace the Peloponnese's charming Napflio 4, a seafront charmer with an Old Town festooned with fortresses and filled with new-look boutique B&Bs.

Explore Byzantine fortresses, neoclassical 19th-century British buildings, Parisian-style arcades and Orthodox church towers in Corfu's Venetian Old Town 5.

HIT THE OPEN ROAD

Put the proverbial top down and get out on the road – Greece's magnificent scenery makes for killer road trips. Dazzling short hops are everywhere, and you can easily string together longer loops on the mainland or on a large island like Crete. Be prepared for good, but narrow, roads and heart-soaring vistas that will call you to stop and stare.

Eyes on the Road

Signage is spotty in some regions and motorists may drive at erratic speeds and have a loose sense of the rules of the road – keep sharp.

jpg

ANDREW MAYOVSKYY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Island-Hopping

When hiring cars in Greece, it’s usually better in terms of price and hassle to just hire one separately on each island.

jpg

PAWEL KAZMIERCZAK/ SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Download your Map

With mapping apps, download data for the area you’ll be exploring in advance so that when you need guidance you don't suddenly discover there’s no mobile signal and you’re truly lost.

BEST ROAD-TRIP EXPERIENCES

Swoop from lush spring-filled valleys to ancient marble quarries and superb village tavernas in sprawling, dramatic Naxos 1.

Tour fascinating mountain towns via scenic roads in the Hania and Rethymno regions of Crete, like the Innahorion villages and those in the Mastihohoria 2.

Glide the undulating coastline with spectacular views from Monemvasia 3 to Gerakas Fjord in the Peloponnese.

Save your drive for the evening in Ios 4, where the mountaintop roads take in glowing sunset colours in all directions.

Get mountain high when tripping from Tzoumerka 5, through Ioannina and into Zagoria, where waterfalls, slopes and villages vie for your attention.

DROP OFF THE RADAR

Greece is meant for exploring, and not just its big names. From rural countryside to the mountain villages, there is a wealth of history, culture and, yes, beaches to savour. As for much world travel, divert a few kilometres from the deservedly famous sights and you will see the seas of tourism subside, too.

jpg

Skyros town | DINOSMICHAIL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ask a Resident

Some of Greece's best treats are locally held secrets…chat with the local folks to find out where they like to go.

Out of Time

One way to make even the busiest, popular places seem off the beaten path is to come out of season. Santorini in winter, for example, is a whole different, spectacular, beast.

BEST OFF-THE-BEATEN-PATH EXPERIENCES

Become one with quiet in tranquil Sikinos 1, with its ancient ruins and slope-side vineyard.

Explore little-known mountains, trails and waterfalls on the Karditsa side of Agrafa 2.

Get a feel for why, in Greek mythology, Skyros 3 was the hiding place of the young Achilles.

Follow pine-covered trails to turquoise waters on Angistri 4, hiding in plain sight a mere 30 minutes from Athens' port.

Stay a while in charming and time-forgotten Kythira 5, an Ionian island where lush valleys, gorges and flower-speckled cliffs tumble into the sea.

REGIONS & CITIES

Find the places that tick all your boxes.

WHEN TO GO

Greece is a year-round destination. What you're looking for – beaches, ancient sites, mountain walks, city life – should dictate when you go.

Depending on what you are seeking, different seasons are ideal for different goals. If it's islands you're after, they wake from their winter slumber around Greek Orthodox Easter (April/May) and gear up slowly through the warmer months, reaching a jam-packed peak around 15 August. Then, some islands roll up the red carpet in September, while a few like Mykonos, Santorini and Hydra push into October. Shoulder season is the best time for avoiding the heat and crowds. It's also ideal for hiking. Winter remains superb for ancient sites, when you can wander crumbling ruins virtually alone. It's also when Greeks are in cities, working, so cafe culture and nightlife boom.

Want a Bargain?

If you can, visit in the shoulder seasons – late spring or early autumn. The weather is mild, crowds are slim and prices are down by about 20%. From November to March rates can drop by as much as 50%, but many island hotels and restaurants close.

jpg

Little Venice, Mykonos in October | JACKKPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

I LIVE HERE

SUMMER

Konstantinos Aloupis lives in Rethymno and is the co-owner of EcoEvents, which organises trips to remote mountain villages and other activities celebrating Cretan culture. @ecoevents_crete

Every July and August, Crete becomes one big party. The peak of this season is the Assumption of Mary on 15 August, when most Cretan villages organise enormous feasts in the village centre with wine, traditional dishes and, of course, live Cretan music and dancing by all. I love to visit the villages in Amari or Mylopotamos because they host the liveliest panigyria (feast days) and their food is amazing!

MELTEMI

The meltemi (‘north wind’) is a summer wind that whips across the Aegean from the north, mainly between June and September. It’s created primarily by a low-pressure system over Turkey and a high above the Balkans.

SEA TEMPERATURES

Picture-postcard beaches? Yes! But know your temps: swim season generally begins in June (average sea temperature 23.6°C), the warmest time is August (26.3°C), and folks usually stop swimming by October (22.3°C). The coldest water for the 'polar bear plunge' is February (15°C).

The Big Festivals & Carnivals

Carnival season culminates in a wild weekend of costume parades, floats, feasting and dancing. The largest event is in Patra, while Skyros features men and their male 'brides' dressed in goatskins. February

The Greek Orthodox calendar is chock-full of festivals and saints' name days, but the biggest by far is Easter. Experience Easter week on Patmos with fireworks, dancing in the streets, goats roasting and plenty of ouzo. April or May

The most prominent Greek summer festival, the Athens Epidaurus Festival features local and international music, dance and drama at the ancient Odeon of Herodes Atticus on Athens' Acropolis and in the Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus in the Peloponnese. June to August

Around 150 films are crammed into 11 days of screenings during Thessaloniki's annual International Film Festival, alongside concerts, exhibitions, talks and theatrical performances. November

Local Festivals

During Miaoulia, Hydra ignites in celebration of Admiral Miaoulis and the Hydriot contribution to the War of Independence. Witness a spectacular boat burning, fireworks, boat racing and folk dancing. June

Under the year's brightest moon, the August Moon Festival sees historical venues in Athens, such as the Acropolis or Roman Agora hold free moonlit performances of theatre, dance and music. The festival is also celebrated in other towns and sites around Greece; check locally for details. August

One of the LGBTIQ+ pride season's biggest parties is the week-long XLSIOR festival held on Mykonos, with live music and open-air DJ sets. August

The wine festival Great Days of Nemea highlights the wine riches of the agiorgitiko grape, as wineries host tastings, concerts and more. September

I LIVE HERE

Autumn

Write Efrosini Camatsos splits her time between Athens and Lesvos, where she runs writing and painting retreats in the summer with British artist Tomas Watson. sigriartsretreat.com

Deep-red pomegranates, blood-orange persimmons, fuzzy, yellow quinces; these now texture the sunsets. Olive trees sag with their fruit, the oil presses reopen. Fishermen’s nets fill with barbounia (red mullet). The migrant birds pause here on their journey south. The sea is soft, fresh; after a swim, I seek the sun for its gentle warmth. The light is sharp, intense. Locals, having survived the busy confusion of summer, venture out, like snails after the first rain. Balance.

jpg

KOKIXX/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

GREEK SNOW? REALLY?

Visiting in winter? Pack a coat. Greece even sees snow in the north – at places like Epiros, Meteora, Thessaloniki and Macedonia – and on its mountaintops. Freak snow storms even occasionally powder Athens or the islands.

Weather Through the Year

jpg

JANUARY

Ave. daytime max: 13°C

Days of rainfall: 5

jpg

FEBRUARY

Ave. daytime max: 14°C

Days of rainfall: 5

jpg

MARCH

Ave. daytime max: 16°C

Days of rainfall: 4

jpg

APRIL

Ave. daytime max: 20°C

Days of rainfall: 3

jpg

MAY

Ave. daytime max: 25°C

Days of rainfall: 2

jpg

JUNE

Ave. daytime max: 29°C

Days of rainfall: 1

jpg

JULY

Ave. daytime max: 32°C

Days of rainfall: 0

jpg

AUGUST

Ave. daytime max: 32°C

Days of rainfall: 0

jpg

SEPTEMBER

Ave. daytime max: 28°C

Days of rainfall: 1

jpg

OCTOBER

Ave. daytime max: 23°C

Days of rainfall: 3

jpg

NOVEMBER

Ave. daytime max: 18°C

Days of rainfall: 4

jpg

DECEMBER

Ave. daytime max: 15°C

Days of rainfall: 6

MEET THE

GREEKS

Greeks love to complain about everything but they’re a fun-loving bunch and never pass up an opportunity to enjoy life. Vangelis Koronakis introduces his people.

TOURISM MAY BE the country’s biggest modern industry, but philoxenia (hospitality) is a virtue ingrained in the Greek psyche since ancient times. Most Greeks see visitors as guests rather than tourists and will go out of their way to please them.

If you go out with locals, there is no way they will let you pay your share of the bill, and if you stay at their home, they will probably offer you their own bed to make you feel comfortable. We call this filotimo, which is a sense of honour, dignity and pride, without exact translation, a highly valued attribute in Greek society.

Of course, when it comes to the world stage, and especially after the long and devastating economic crisis of the past decade, Greeks are often suspicious of other nations and feel misunderstood and unfairly treated by them – the country’s glorious past and celebrated ancestors are always brought up in this conversation.

The economic crisis exacerbated a long-term decline in birth rates and caused a significant ‘brain drain’ as many young people looked for better opportunities abroad. As a result, the ‘demographic problem’ is a frequent topic in public debate. On the other hand, the country has been receiving hundreds of thousands of immigrants and refugees looking for a better future, a fact that is also a heated political topic.

Politics is always a favourite subject, and most Greeks feel passionate about their political views, and any other views for that matter. Loud conversations with intense hand waving are quite normal, and make us look like we are constantly arguing (we are not).

The Greek Orthodox Church is omnipresent and prominent in the Greek state and society. Although most people are not avid churchgoers, certain customs, celebrations and social rituals have a strong religious influence.

It is customary for children to be named after their grandparents, so families often have a few cousins sharing the same Christian (and family) name. However, giving children ancient names is a new trend, and in recent years school classrooms have filled with Achilleses, Homers and Danaes.

Family ties are a fundamental element of Greek society, and it is not uncommon for children to live with their parents well after they enter adulthood. The same goes for grandparents, who are often looked after by their children’s families. To sum it up, the Greeks have been through a lot of turbulence during their long history. Yet, blessed with a gorgeous, sun-drenched land, they have always overcome and never let life’s smaller and more significant difficulties keep them from enjoying life’s joys.

COUNTING DOWN

Greece, according to the 2021 census, has a population of 10.4 million, a decline of 3.5% in the past decade. This confirms a downward trend registered for the first time in the history of the country in 2011.

jpg

Taverna, Vathy, Ithaki | PAWEL KAZMIERCZAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

jpg

women, Ano Koufonisi | NICOLE KWIATKOWSKI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

jpg

festival, Kythnos | STU.DIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

jpg

girl at migrant camp on the Greece–North Macedonia border in 2016 | MICHAEL PASCHOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

AN ATHENIAN WITH COUNTRY ROOTS

I was born and raised in Athens and have lived here ever since, with the exception of a few years abroad to study and work.

My father was born in Crete, and my mother in Sterea Ellada, and as most of the post-WWII generation did, they fled their war-ravaged villages to come to Athens looking for better opportunities.

Like my parents, hundreds of thousands of internal immigrants flocked to the capital, taking up any job offered to build a new life and raise their children here. The city expanded dramatically and aggressively, losing most of its traditional neoclassical houses to the large blocks of flats essential for housing the newcomers.

Those folks maintained tight relationships with their birthplaces, visiting them regularly. As a result, most Athenians have a horio (village), and on public holidays, Easter or even weekends, they abandon the capital en masse for a relaxing break in their grandparents’ homes.

GET PREPARED

FOR GREECE

Useful things to load in your bag, your ears and your brain.

jpg

NAPHAT_JORJEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Manners

Try to avoid mentioning the bailouts that occurred during the economic crisis. No need to rub salt into the wound.

Greek–Turkish relations are tense and unless your views are generally Greek-friendly, it's better to talk about the weather.

The issue of North Macedonia’s name has been officially resolved, but many Greeks haven’t come to terms with their neighbours’ new name. Don't forget the 'North'.

Clothes

Layers: Summers in Greece can get sizzling hot so bring light, preferably cotton, clothing. T-shirts, Bermuda shorts, swimwear and a hat are indispensable. Greeks generally dress casually, so unless you expect to be invited to a smart occasion, a wedding or your ambassador’s garden party, super-smart attire won’t be necessary. The winters are relatively mild but it does rain. A warm jacket and jeans should suffice for Athens and the southern coastal part of the country, but up north and in the mountains you should be prepared for bitter cold, wind and snow.

Shoes: Sandals and flip-flops are great for your urban strolls but if you are planning longer walks, a pair of trainers with cotton socks may be more comfortable. Boots are only necessary if you plan on hiking or trekking.

READ

Mani & Roumeli

Mani & Roumeli (Patrick Leigh Fermor; 1958 & 1966) Two travel classics by one of the best travel writers of all time.

Austerity Measures

Austerity Measures (edited by Karen Van Dyck; 2016) Contemporary Greek poetry inspired by the economic crisis.

Cartes Postales from Greece

Cartes Postales from Greece (Victoria Hislop; 2016) A fond look at the country through a collection of short stories.

Greeks Bearing Gifts

Greeks Bearing Gifts (Philip Kerr; 2018) Hard-boiled mystery set in Athens more than 60 years ago.

Words

The Greek alphabet may look daunting, but once you know how to pronounce every letter and a few combinations of letters you can actually read Greek.

A useful thing to know is that the letters ι, η and υ as well as the diphthongs ει and οι are all pronounced exactly the same, and Greeks use them to make a foreigner’s life difficult! (The truth is that these vowels were pronounced differently in Ancient Greek and they were just inherited by the modern Greek alphabet.)

Most Greeks speak at least some English, and if they don’t, they try to communicate with gestures. But they are always impressed by a visitor who makes the effort to say a few Greek words to them.

Here's a basic vocabulary to get you off the ground:

Γεια σας / Γεια σου (ya·sas [polite or plural]/ya·su [informal]) Both 'hello' and 'goodbye' (often just 'ya') – literary 'to your health'.

Καλημέρα (ka·li·me·ra) 'Good morning'.

Ναι (ne) 'Yes', usually simultaneously with a nod of the head, or just a silent nod.

Οχι (o·hi) 'No', usually with a left–right shake or a lift of the head.

Ευχαριστώ (ef·ha·ri·sto) 'Thank you'.

Παρακαλώ (pa·ra·ka·lo) Means both 'please' and 'you're welcome'.

Με λένε… (me le·ne…) 'My name is…'

Δεν καταλαβαίνω (dhen ka·ta·la·ve·no) 'I don’t understand'.

Βοήθεια (vo·i·thi·a) 'Help'. As in every language it's a word used only in an emergency, when in danger etc.

WATCH

Never on Sunday (Jules Dassin; 1960; pictured) An American’s efforts to pull a kind-hearted sex worker out of her lifestyle. Oscar winner for Original Score.

Summer Lovers (Randal Kleiser; 1982) A menage a trois in glorious 1980s Santorini before the hordes. A true 'postcard from Greece' film.

The Big Blue (Luc Besson; 1988) Sublime visuals of the island of Amorgos and the Aegean Sea.

The Two Faces of January (Hossein Amini; 2014) Film adaptation of Patricia Highsmith's atmospheric thriller novel.

The Durrells (2016–19) A family moves from England to a simple but fulfilling life in Corfu in 1935. Based on Gerald Durrell’s memoirs.

jpg

JOHN SPRINGER COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES ©

LISTEN

Gioconda’s Smile (Manos Hadjidakis; 1965) A timeless instrumental masterpiece by one of the greatest Greek composers of all time.

Greece Goes Modern (Mimis Plessas; 1967) Traditional songs from around Greece conducted in a wonderful jazzy and bossa nova style.

Metro (Lex; 2022) Stadium-filling Greek hip-hop with strong social and political concerns.

Anime (Fivos Delivorias; 2022) One of the hottest names in today’s Greek music scene.

THE FOOD SCENE

Greek cuisine is renowned across the globe for its wholesome, hearty dishes and philosophy of simple but superior-quality raw ingredients.

jpg

Prawn and aubergine dish, Mykonos | PICCIA NERI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Greeks love eating out, sharing impossibly big meals with family and friends in a drawn-out, convivial fashion. Whether you're eating seafood at a seaside table or sampling contemporary Greek cuisine under the floodlit Acropolis, dining out in Greece is never just about what you eat, but the whole sensory experience.

Unrushed dining is an integral part of the country's culture, as the Greek table is the centre of many time-honoured social and family rituals and traditions. And although the nation's recipes can be enjoyed in thousands of Greek restaurants in every city of the world, the locale and ambience of eateries in Greece are the special ingredients that make dining out when visiting the country an extra-special experience.

Take a cue from the locals and go straight to the source, heading to seaside fishing hamlets for fresh fish or mountain villages for grilled lamb, succulent pork and organic chicken. Seek out tavernas that produce their own vegetables, wine and oil, where the fried potatoes are hand-cut and recipes are passed down through generations.

The Greek Kitchen

The essence of traditional Greek cuisine lies in seasonal homegrown produce. Dishes are simply seasoned. Lemon juice, garlic, pungent Greek oregano and extra virgin olive oil are the quintessential flavours, along with tomato, parsley, dill, cinnamon and milk products, such as the nation's famously thick yoghurt.

Best Greek Dishes

BAKLAVA

Honey-drenched filo pastry packed with finely chopped nuts.

MOUSAKAS

Luscious layers of aubergine, cheese sauce, minced meat and potato.

HORIATIKI

The classic Greek salad of feta, cucumbers, tomatoes, olives and onions.

SPANAKOPITA

Spinach pie made with flaky filo pastry.

LOUKOUMADHES

Ball-shaped doughnuts dipped in honey, sprinkled with cinnamon or nuts.

KOLOKITHOKEFTEDES

Fritters of grated courgette, feta and fresh herbs.

SOUVLAKI

Small pieces of meat grilled on a skewer, served on pita.

DOLMADHES

Either vine-leaf parcels, or hollowed-out vegetables, stuffed and baked.

Mayirefta & Grilled Meats

Mayirefta are home-style, one-pot, baked or casserole dishes. Prepared early, they are left to cool to enhance the flavours. Well-known mayirefta include the aubergine, cheese and meat sauce dish mousakas, yemista (vegetables stuffed with rice and herbs), lemonato (meat with lemon and oregano) and stifadho (sweet stewed meat with tomato and onion).

Greeks are masterful with grilled and spit-roasted meats. Souvlaki – arguably the national dish – comes in many forms, from cubes of grilled meat on a skewer to pita-wrapped snacks with pork, or chicken gyros done kebab-style on a rotisserie. Succulent païdakia (lamb cutlets) and brizoles (pork chops) are also popular.

Fish & Seafood

Fish is often grilled whole and drizzled with ladholemono (lemon and oil dressing). Smaller fish such as barbounia (red mullet) or maridha (whitebait) are lightly fried. Chtapódi (octopus) is grilled, marinated or stewed in wine sauce. Popular seafood dishes include soupies (cuttlefish), calamari stuffed with cheese and herbs, and psarosoupa (fish soup). For the best pescatarian dishes head to the coastal tavernas run by local fishing families.

Mezedhes & Salads

Mezedhes are small dishes (or appetisers) that are often shared. Classics include tzatziki (yoghurt, cucumber and garlic), melidzanosalata (aubergine), taramasalata (fish roe dip) and saganaki (fried cheese). Also sample keftedhes (meatballs), loukaniko (pork sausage), grilled gavros (white anchovies) and dolmadhes (rice wrapped in marinated vine leaves).

The most famous Greek salad is horiatiki or 'village salad'. It's made of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, feta and olives; however, it's often garnished with local greens, peppers, capers or nuts. Feta is sometimes replaced by a local cheese. Patzarosalata (beetroot salad) is also popular, usually served in a yoghurt dressing with walnuts and green herbs.

jpg

GEORGE TSITOURAS PHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

FOOD & DRINK FESTIVALS

Athens Street Food Festival (athensstreetfoodfestival.gr; May) The Old OSY Depot becomes a giant food court for this highly popular celebration of street food (pictured).

Cycladic Gastronomy Festival 'Nikolaos Tselementes' (Sep) Held over three days in Artemonas on Sifnos, this festival is named after an influential modern Greek cookery writer.

Fistiki Fest (fistikifest.gr; Sep) This celebration of local culinary products, including the pistachio (fistiki in Greek), is held on the island of Aegina.

Great Days of Nemea (Sep) Highlights the vineyards of the Nemea region, with a focus on the agiorgitiko grape varietal.

Pelion Gastronomy Festival (peliongastronomy.gr; Oct) Gathers together farmers, producers, home cooks, chefs and even the odd monk.

Stafylofest (Sep) Glossa on Skopelos hosts the 'grape harvest festival', an annual celebration of grapevine culture and winemaking.

Vegetarians & Vegans

Non-meat and fish eaters are well catered for, since vegetables feature prominently in Greek cooking – a legacy of lean times and the Orthodox faith's fasting traditions. The more traditional a restaurant you go to, the more vegetable options you get, because they follow more of the fasting rules. If you come during Lent, it’s a vegan bonanza at these places.

Look for popular vegetable dishes such as fasolakia yiahni (braised green beans), bamies (okra), briam (oven-baked vegetable casserole) and vine-leaf dolmadhes. Of the nutritious horta (wild greens), vlita (amaranth; pictured) is the sweetest, but other common varieties include wild radish, dandelion, stinging nettle and sorrel. Do ask, though, to be sure that the vegetables have not been prepared in a meat-based broth.

jpg

STRATOS GIANNIKOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

COOKERY COURSES

Diane Kochilas (dianekochilas.com) Join the host of the PBS show My Greek Table on week-long courses on her ancestral island, Ikaria, from May through September, as well as on culinary tours to Athens, Nemea and Nafplio.

Kea Artisanal (aglaiakremezi.com/kea-artisanal) Aglaia Kremezi and her friends open their kitchens and gardens on the island of Kea for cooking workshops.

Crete’s Culinary Sanctuaries (cookingincrete.com) Greek-American journalist Nikki Rose combines cooking classes, organic-farm tours and cultural excursions around Crete.

The Greek Kitchen (greekkitchenathens.com) Runs half-day, hands-on cooking classes in Athens as well as food tours of the city's main market.

Other courses include those run by Alternative Athens (alternativeathens.com), FindinGreece (findingreece.com) on Amorgos, Pelion Gastronomy (peliongastronomy.gr) near Volos, Rodialos (rodialos.gr) in Crete and Sifnos Farm Narlis (sifnos-farm-narlis.com) on Sifnos.

Festive Food

Greece's religious and cultural celebrations inevitably involve a feast and many have their own culinary traditions.

The 40-day Lenten fast spawned nistisima, foods without meat or dairy (or oil if you go strictly by the book). Lenten sweets include halva, both the Macedonian-style version made from tahini and the semolina dessert often served after a meal.

Red-dyed boiled Easter eggs decorate the tsoureki and mastic (the crystallised resin of the mastic tree). Saturday night's post-Resurrection Mass supper includes mayiritsa (offal soup), while Easter Sunday sees whole lambs cooking on spits all over the countryside.

An end-of-year tradition is vasilopita (the 'sweet bread of St Basil'), made with sweet flavourings such as orange, vanilla and mastic. The cake is cut at midnight on New Year's Eve, giving good fortune to whoever gets the lucky coin hidden inside.

Specialities

Pick up some of the following from a deli, market or street stall and you have the makings of a fine Greek picnic.

Breads & Baked Goods

Daktyla Rustic loaf made from a combo of cornmeal, plain and whole wheat flour.

Elenia Stuffed with pitted olives, a speciality of the island of Kimolos.

Koulouri Wheat dough shaped into a ring like a bagel, coated in sesame seeds and baked. Popular street food.

Paximadi A twice-baked rusk, traditionally made with barley. Comes in savoury and sweet versions.

Bougatsa Pastry filled with sweet or savoury fillings such as cream and cinnamon, cheese, or minced meat and spinach.

Tyropita A filo pasty pie filled with a mix of cheese and eggs.

Dips

Tzatziki A creamy, cooling mash-up of cucumber, garlic and yoghurt.

Skordalia Crushed garlic mixed with pureed potato or bread.

Melidzanosalata Aubergine dip, similar to baba ganoush, but simpler and creamier in texture.

Tirokafteri Spicy feta dip.

Fava Puree of yellow split peas.

Cheeses

Feta Made from sheep's milk or a mix of sheep and goat's milk.

Graviera A nutty, mild Gruyère-like sheep's-milk cheese.

Kaseri Semi-hard to hard cheese made in Thessaly, Macedonia, Lesvos and Xanthi.

Myzithra Ricotta-like whey cheese.

jpg

Feta and olive oil | YIANNISSCHEIDT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sweet Treats

Kataïfi Chopped nuts inside 'angel hair' pastry.

Ryzogalo Rice pudding.

Galaktoboureko Custard-filled pastry.

Ghlika kutalyu Syrupy fruit preserves, also known as 'spoon sweets'.

MEALS OF A LIFETIME

Argoura This Athens taverna may look like the set of Gilligan's Island but it serves some of the city's best seafood.

Avaton 1739 With a wow location atop Hora's kastro (castle) on Naxos – perfect for sunset cocktails and creative cuisine.

Dimitroukas A taverna in Messolongi serving wild-caught fish and succulent eel prepared on a wood-fired grill.

Mourga A Thessaloniki gem with an excellent list of Greek natural wine.

4 Rodies Locally loved, family-run restaurant in Rhodes Town.

Tereza Named after the cook who's been making stupendous meals for decades in Myrsini on Tinos.

THE YEAR IN FOOD

SPRING

Artichokes and other vegetables abound while cheesemaking kicks into gear. Easter is celebrated with tsoureki (brioche-style bread flavoured with mahlepi – mahaleb cherry kernels – and mastic), boiled eggs dyed red and whole roast lamb.

shutterstock_618795272jpg

RAWF8/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

SUMMER

Watermelon, cherries and other fruit are piled high at markets. In August, Skala Kaloni on Lesvos celebrates its sardine festival, while in the Peloponnese you can attend Leonidio's Aubergine Festival in the same month.

shutterstock_1912077361jpg

YIANNISSCHEIDT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

AUTUMN

Nuts and figs are harvested and Cretan spirit raki is distilled. Aegina's pistachio industry celebrates Fistiki Fest. Voukolies and Cretan villages hold raki or tsikoudia festivals in November, when olive oil is produced.

shutterstock_1800610381jpg

E.PANAGOPOULOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WINTER

The olive harvest peaks. Honey cookies are eaten at Christmas to end fasting. On New Year's Day, the sweet bread vasilopita is shared.

shutterstock_780586093jpg

PHOTO STELLA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ITINERARIES

Cruising the Islands

Allow: 9 days

Distance: 570km

First trip to Greece and looking for island highlights? Here's a string of the country's top islands, most beautiful beaches, cultural highs and special village life. Mixing and matching is easy when island hopping, so a diversion anywhere along the way just adds to the fun.

1 MYKONOS 2 DAYS

Fly into chic Mykonos or catch a ferry from the mainland to get a taste of its fashionable bars and crowd-pleasing beaches. It's an island to see and to be seen, tailor-made for social butterflies and lovers of action.

1½-hour ferry

Detour: For some archaeology and history, plan to visit the sacred island of Delos for its fascinating ancient ruined sanctuaries and treasury of the Delian League. 5 hours

jpg

Mykonos | IZABELA23/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

2 NAXOS 2 DAYS

By far one of Greece's most diverse islands, Naxos holds everything from stone-cragged peaks to mountain villages, ancient ruins and soft-white-sand beaches. A short ferry ride from Mykonos, you can also fly in from Athens if you'd rather skip the party island. Then, either base yourself at its zany-laned Hora, with hilltop kastra (forts) and restaurants, or at the beach – and hire wheels to see more.

3½-hour ferry

shutterstock_723292420jpg

NEL727/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3 FOLEGANDROS 1 DAY

For a smaller-island feel, divert to Folegandros. Tranquil, with just one main village perched dramatically on a sheer cliff face, it's ideal for walkers and those in search of peace. Some of the deep coves and beaches are only accessible on foot or by little boat. At the end of the day the village swells with visitors walking its tree-filled squares and tucking into superb Italian-inflected homemade pastas.

1-hour ferry

shutterstock_1031949604jpg

ZEBRA-STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 SANTORINI 2 DAYS

Take the ferry to spectacular Santorini to revel in the awe as you float in the middle of a volcanic caldera, with the water sparkling and whitewashed villages perched above. The secret is out, so the island is crowded from May to October, but the vineyards, ancient ruins and the view from the dramatic cliffs as the sun sinks into the sea are the stuff of dreams.

3-hour ferry

5 CRETE 2 DAYS

Wrap up in Crete, Greece's largest island, a trip unto itself. You can easily stay longer to explore Iraklio, its wine country and the ruins and reconstructions at Minoan palace Knossos, plus Venetian Rethymno and charming Hania, a pretty harbour city that feels happily alive year-round. Leave time for the gorgeous western and southern beaches, like Elafonisi, or for hiking one of its many gorges.

ITINERARIES

Mainland Ancient Hits

Allow: 8 days

Distance: 900km

This in-depth culture trip takes in iconic ancient sites and Greece's thrilling multifaceted history. Trace the trail from Ancient Greece to more modern marauders while touring beautiful terrain. It's best done with your own wheels, and add days to hike or simply sip a drink on a shaded terrace.

jpg

Monastery interior, Meteora | SERGII FIGURNYI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

1 ATHENS 2 DAYS

Begin in Athens, the mother of it all, and visit grand ancient sites from the Acropolis and Ancient Agora to the Roman Agora