The Rough Guide to Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast (Travel Guide eBook)

By Rough Guides

This practical travel guide to Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast features detailed factual travel tips and points-of-interest structured lists of all iconic must-see sights as well as some off-the-beaten-track treasures. Our itinerary suggestions and expert author picks of things to see and do will make it a perfect companion both, ahead of your trip and on the ground. This Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast guide book is packed full of details on how to get there and around, pre-departure information and top time-saving tips, including a visual list of things not to miss. Our colour-coded maps make Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast easier to navigate while you're there. This guide book to Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast has been fully updated post-COVID-19.

The Rough Guide to NAPLES, POMPEII & THE AMALFI COAST covers: Naples; the Campi Flegrei; Pompeii and South of Naples; Sorrento and its peninsula; The Islands; North of Naples; the Amalfi Coast.

Inside this Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast travel guide you'll find:

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR EVERY TYPE OF TRAVELLER
Experiences selected for every kind of trip to Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast, from off-the-beaten-track adventures in Procida to family activities in child-friendly places, like Quartieri Spagnoli or chilled-out breaks in popular tourist areas, like Centro Storico.

PRACTICAL TRAVEL TIPS
Essential pre-departure information including Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast entry requirements, getting around, health information, travelling with children, sports and outdoor activities, food and drink, festivals, culture and etiquette, shopping, tips for travellers with disabilities and more.

TIME-SAVING ITINERARIES
Includes carefully planned routes covering the best of Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast, which give a taste of the richness and diversity of the destination, and have been created for different time frames or types of trip.

DETAILED REGIONAL COVERAGE
Clear structure within each sightseeing chapter of this Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast travel guide includes regional highlights, brief history, detailed sights and places ordered geographically, recommended restaurants, hotels, bars, clubs and major shops or entertainment options.

INSIGHTS INTO GETTING AROUND LIKE A LOCAL
Tips on how to beat the crowds, save time and money and find the best local spots for exploring Europe's greatest archeological sites and underground catacombs or visiting home-style restaurants and art museums.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THINGS NOT TO MISS
Rough Guides' rundown of Naples, Herculaneum, Oplontis, Pompeii's best sights and top experiences helps to make the most of each trip to Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast, even in a short time.

HONEST AND INDEPENDENT REVIEWS
Written by Rough Guides' expert authors with a trademark blend of humour, honesty and expertise, this Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast guide book will help you find the best places, matching different needs.

BACKGROUND INFORMATION
Comprehensive 'Contexts' chapter of this travel guide to Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast features fascinating insights into Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast, with coverage of history, religion, ethnic groups, environment, wildlife and books, plus a handy language section and glossary.

FABULOUS FULL COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY
Features inspirational colour photography, including the stunning Mount Vesuvius and the spectacular Sentiero Degli Dei.

COLOUR-CODED MAPPING
Practical full-colour maps, with clearly numbered, colour-coded keys for quick orientation in Ravello, Sorrento and many more locations in Naples, Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast, reduce the nee

• Language: English
• Publisher: Insight Guides
• Release date: Apr 1, 2023
• ISBN: 9781839059223

Rough Guides

Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

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Contents

Introduction to Naples, Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast

Where to go

When to go

Author picks

things not to miss

Itineraries

Basics

Getting there

Arrival

Getting around

Accommodation

Food and drink

The media

Festivals

Travel essentials

Naples

Centro Storico

Piazza Garibaldi, Forcella and the Port

Via Toledo and around

Quartieri Spagnoli

Montesanto

La Sanità and Capodimonte

Santa Lucia and Pizzofalcone

Chiaia

Mergellina and Posillipo

Vomero

The Campi Flegrei

Pozzuoli

Baia

Bacoli and around

Cumae

Pompeii and south of Naples

Herculaneum

Mount Vesuvius

Oplontis

Antiquarium of Boscoreale

Pompeii

Castellammare di Stabia and around

Sorrento and its peninsula

Sorrento and around

Southwest of Sorrento

The islands

Capri

Ischia

Procida

North of Naples

Caserta and around

The Capuas

Sant’Agata dei Goti

Benevento

Around Benevento

The Amalfi Coast

Positano

Praiano and around

Amalfi and around

Ravello

Minori to Vietri sul Mare

Salerno

Paestum

Contexts

History

Books

Film and TV

Italian

Glossary

Small print

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Introduction to Naples, Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast

A chaotic, dynamic and mesmerizing metropolis, Italy’s third-largest city after Rome and Milan couldn’t be more different from its northern counterparts. Quite unlike anywhere else in Italy, or indeed the world, it will frustrate and thrill in equal measure, and will soon have you under its spell. In addition to its sheer chutzpah, the city’s stunning location on the Bay of Naples – within easy reach of some of Europe’s greatest archeological sites, the fabled islands of the bay itself, and Italy’s most jaw-dropping stretch of coast – make it one of Italy’s absolute must-sees.

Naples and its region are undeniably appealing, with a huge variety of things to see and do, but the city certainly comes with baggage. Plenty of Italians have never been here, and swear that they never will. Internationally, too, its reputation is traditionally not strong, and has perhaps only worsened as its longtime struggles against organized crime have been broadcast far and wide through popular books, movies and television series. You may feel the same, and, quite honestly, it’s easy to visit Pompeii and Herculaneum, the islands and the Amalfi Coast and barely set foot in the city itself. But to do that would be to miss somewhere special, a destination that just two centuries ago was one of the largest cities in Europe and a must-visit for any self-respecting Grand Tourist. With Italian Unification, its power waned, and its fortunes over the twentieth century mirrored those of the wider Italian south, marred by poverty, corruption and stuttering economic growth. These days, however, it’s on the upswing, and, truth be told, just as accessible for travellers as – and no more dangerous than – anywhere else in Italy. Naples also provides a vibrant and fascinating base for seeing many of the nearby attractions, with an integrated transport network around the Bay of Naples that makes it a perfect half of a two-centre holiday. Spend time here before heading off for the more bucolic delights nearby – you won’t regret getting to know one of Europe’s great undiscovered tourist destinations.

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Where to go

The diversity of attractions in Naples and its region means that – time permitting – you can pack a lot into your holiday. With just a weekend to spare, Naples makes a great city-break option, giving you the right amount of time to cover the main sights and wander the atmospheric ancient centre; if you have a week at your disposal, you could also take in some of the bay’s famous archeological sights, as well as spend a couple of days island-hopping or following the dramatic coast road to the towns around Amalfi. Any longer than this and you can explore the city, coast and islands at your leisure, with great public transport connections cutting travelling (and driving) time to a minimum.

If Naples is your base, head straight for the Centro Storico, a Unesco World Heritage Site whose dead-straight streets follow the grid of the ancient Greek and Roman settlements on which the city was founded. This area is Naples’ spiritual heart, home to an array of churches and palaces, and a street-level commerce that couldn’t be further from the homogenized centres of many of Europe’s major cities. The big museums and attractions are elsewhere, but if you experience only one thing in the city, it should be this. Beyond the old centre, Via Toledo is the modern hub of Naples, a busy shopping street that leads up from a cluster of portside attractions – the Palazzo Reale, Teatro di San Carlo and Castel Nuovo, among others – to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, one of the great museums of Europe, home to the best of the region’s ancient Roman finds. West of Via Toledo, the jungle of congested streets that makes up the notorious Quartieri Spagnoli neighbourhood rubs shoulders with the elegant boulevards of Chiaia, a haven of designer shopping and high-end dining that is quite at odds with much of the rest of the city. Up above, accessible by funicular, Vomero is similarly well heeled, a nineteenth-century residential quarter that boasts heart-stopping views and some of the city’s most historic museums, most notably in the Certosa di San Martino. Northeast of here, on another of Naples’ hills, Capodimonte harbours a former residence of the Neapolitan royals, now home to the excellent Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte, one of Italy’s finest art collections.

But there’s plenty to draw you out of the city, too. To the south, the evocative remains of ancient Pompeii – among the best-known archeological sites on earth – need little introduction, frozen in time nearly two millennia ago before emerging from the volcanic rubble. Nearby, the excavated town of Herculaneum, smaller but in many ways no less impressive than its more famous neighbour, makes a worthy rival. Numerous other Roman ruins unearthed along the coast – at Oplontis, Stabiae and Boscoreale – are all worth a visit, as is Vesuvius, which dominates the coast south of the city. Beyond here, the sprawl of Naples peters out and you’re into holiday territory, beginning with the resort town of Sorrento – an appealing mixture of earthiness and elegance that makes a good base for sampling the many and varied delights of the whole peninsula.

To the west of Naples lie the fabled Phlegrean Fields or Campi Flegrei, named for the volcanic activity that has been a feature of the region for centuries. The remarkable Solfatara, just outside the main town of Pozzuoli, is the most visible instance of this: an otherworldly landscape of bubbling mud and sulphurous fumaroles. Pozzuoli itself is home to a number of sights dating back to a time when it was the principal port of ancient Rome – remains that provide a taster of the ruined cities of Baia and Cumae beyond. North of Naples lie more ancient sites, principally in Capua and in the provincial capital of Benevento, but the area’s real draw is the vast royal palace at Caserta, an eighteenth-century pile that dominates the town.

The islands of the Bay of Naples – Capri, Ischia and Procida – are a massive draw, and many people arrive at Naples’ train station or port and ship right out again on the first ferry. Of the three islands, Ischia has perhaps the broadest appeal, much larger than its neighbours and with an assortment of attractions that makes it suitable for everything from a day-trip to a fortnight’s holiday: climb to the top of its extinct volcano, relax in its healing spa waters, or just eat and laze the days away in one of its small-scale resorts. Capri is smaller and more scenically spectacular, but it can be heaving in high season – and its high prices reflect its popularity. The dazzling landscape and sharp Mediterranean light make it truly special, however, and it would be a pity to come to Naples and not visit at all – though it’s best out of season or after the day-tripping masses have gone home. Tiny Procida remains the least-known of the islands, at least among foreign visitors, though it’s fast becoming a popular alternative for the laidback charms of its handful of fishing villages, colourful marinas and picturesque beaches.

The Amalfi Coast draws crowds of admiring visitors, and no wonder: its crags and cliffs, girdled by a spectacular coastal road, are as mind-blowing as you are given to expect. If you avoid the tourist hotspots, and travel outside the peak months of July and August, you’ll find it bearably busy, and with a range of rewards in the shape of stunning coastal towns like Amalfi, Ravello and Atrani.

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Sun-seekers swarm the Amalfi Coast in August

Rough Guides

When to go

Like the rest of Southern Italy, Naples and its surroundings enjoy a mild Mediterranean climate, with warm summers and mild winters. The hottest months are June through to August, although temperatures are rarely uncomfortably high, and the islands and coast usually enjoy the benefit of a cooling breeze. The wettest period tends to be the autumn and early winter, when the region is prone to thunderstorms and downpours, particularly in October. January and February can also be wet and cold, but conditions usually improve by March and April. The best months to visit are May, June and September; the weather is usually warm and sunny, and you’re also likely to catch a festival (see page 44). The soaring temperatures of August, and the fact that this is when the Italians take their annual holiday, make it the month to avoid, especially in Naples, when everything is closed, and the coastal resorts, when everything is crowded and expensive.

Average temperatures and rainfall

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Max/Min (°C) 13/5 13/5 16/7 18/9 23/12 26/16 30/19 30/19 27/16 22/13 17/8 13/6

Rainfall (mm) 80 100 80 100 60 30 30 30 80 130 140 100

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Author picks

Our author recommendations don’t end here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the ê symbol.

Our authors have travelled every inch of the Naples region and love it in all its different aspects, but there are certain places and activities that for them make a visit truly special.

Gorgeous beaches Procida (see page 150) has plenty of attractive beaches to choose from, and Ischia’s long, sandy beaches make the island the ideal choice for a break with the kids (see page 142).

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Cimitero delle Fontanelle, Naples

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Budget stays Your holiday budget will go a long way in Naples, which has plenty of inexpensive accommodation, and makes a good base for day-trips (see pages 80, 119, 146, 168, 174 and 182).

Cultural treasures The impressive collections of the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (see page 69), Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte (see page 72) and MADRE (see page 63) make Naples an obvious base for a cultural break.

Spooky death cults Death is a recurring motif in Naples – in its weird cemeteries full of skulls (see page 72), underground catacombs (see page 72) and death cult churches (see page 60) – and an interesting way to understand the city.

Sublime feasts Naples is arguably Italy’s greatest foodie location – unpretentious home-style restaurants serve up great pasta and freshly caught fish and seafood. It’s also the home of pizza, and if you love gelato you’re in for a treat. Up in the hills and along the Amalfi Coast, you’ll also find very special restaurants (see pages 122 and 169).

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Negombo mineral pools, Ischia

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Natural beauty Hike into the hinterland of the Sorrentine peninsula to escape the crowds and experience the region’s beauty in its most primal form (see page 109).

Lazy days The thermal spas of Ischia are perfect for pampering and easing away aches and pains (see page 142).

Romantic bolthole The stupendous backdrop of the Amalfi Coast makes the swanky hotels of hilltop Ravello the ultimate romantic hideaway (see page 175).

Seaside fun Sorrento is the quintessential coastal resort, with a lovely old town, good restaurants and appealing hotels at all prices (see page 117).

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15

things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything that Naples, Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows, in no particular order, is a selective taste of the region’s highlights, from clifftop towns and heavyweight museums to active volcanoes and unforgettable Roman ruins. All highlights are colour-coded by chapter and have a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more.

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1 PAESTUM

See page 183

This series of Hellenistic temples, set among the flatlands to the south of Salerno, constitutes one of Italy’s most haunting and evocative ancient sites.

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2 museo nazionale di Capodimonte

See page 72

A vast palace above the city centre holding one of the best collections of Renaissance art in Italy.

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3 Corricella

See page 150

The Bay of Naples’ prettiest pastel fishing harbour is set on its tiniest, most tranquil island.

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4 Ravello

See page 175

The fabulous views from Ravello have graced a thousand postcards. A true retreat.

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5 Pompeii

See page 106

Preserved by ash in the 79 AD eruption of Vesuvius, no other site has revealed as much about daily life in ancient Rome.

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6 Cappella Sansevero

See page 61

This chapel pays perhaps the most poignantly beautiful homage of them all to the Neapolitan fascination with death.

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7 Sorrento

See page 115

The Italian seaside resort at its best. Sorrento is a lovely small town wholly given over to the pursuit of pleasure.

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8 Herculaneum

See page 101

Less well known than Pompeii, this buried city is still one of the greatest Roman ruins on the planet.

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9 Museo Archeologico Nazionale

See page 69

One of the world’s great archeological collections, with evocative finds from Pompeii and Herculaneum.

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10 Villa San Michele

See page 134

In contrast to Capri’s well-documented glamour, Axel Munthe’s idyllic home reflects the island’s simpler charms.

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11 Il SORGETO

See page 144

Take a midnight hike down to the hot springs at the mouth of this stunning little bay as it glimmers in the moonlight.

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12 Centro Storico, Naples

See page 55

There’s nowhere like it, in Italy or the world, and wandering around these ancient streets and soaking up the atmosphere is an essential Naples experience.

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13 Amalfi

See page 170

Piled up on a cliffside, this ancient maritime republic makes an appealing base for the entire Amalfi Coast. At the central piazza, precipitous steps climb to the town’s Duomo.

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14 Vesuvius

See page 104

Climbing to the summit of mainland Europe’s only active volcano is something you should definitely not miss.

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15 Napoli Sotterranea

See page 59

If there’s one thing that’s more spectacular than strolling the streets of Naples’ old centre, it’s poking about the streets beneath it by candlelight.

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Itineraries

Create your own itinerary with Rough Guides. Whether you’re after adventure or a family-friendly holiday, we have a trip for you, with all the activities you enjoy doing and the sights you want to see. All our trips are devised by local experts who get the most out of the destination. Visit www.roughguides.com/trips to chat with one of our travel agents.

Naples and its region have so much to offer that it’s sometimes hard to know where to start, especially if your time is limited. Below we’ve listed a number of suggested itineraries that take in the best of the region, based on time and specific interests. There’s no need to follow them slavishly – they’re ideas that fit together both geographically and thematically, no more – but we hope they give you an easily digested taste of the huge richness and diversity of Naples, Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast.

a LONG weekend in Naples and beyond

We reckon Naples is one of the most underrated destinations there is for a weekend break. There is so much to see in the city itself and many easily accessible attractions nearby. If time is tight you may want to choose between the resorts and the ancient sites.

1 Centro Storico, Naples The Centro Storico is Naples’ beating heart, and a stroll here should be your first activity. Key sights along the way include the churches of Santa Chiara and San Domenico Maggiore, the Gesù Nuovo and the amazing Cappella Sansevero. See page 55

2 Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Naples The city has some exceptional museums – the Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte for fine art, MADRE for contemporary works and, best of all, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale. You’d be mad to come to Naples and not visit what is perhaps the greatest collection of Roman finds anywhere. See page 69

3 Vomero, Naples Head down busy Via Toledo, along Santa Lucia’s glamourous waterfront promenade, and up one of the funiculars to enjoy the stunning views from Vomero’s Certosa San Martino. See page 77

4 Subterranean Naples Be sure to check out Naples’ underground attractions – catacombs, Bourbon tunnels and bits of the buried Roman city. See pages 72 and 77

5 Herculaneum Smaller and easier to assimilate than Pompeii, Herculaneum is also close to the city and combines well on a day-trip with Vesuvius. See page 101

6 Vesuvius You can’t ignore the glowering hulk of Vesuvius wherever you are in the city; excursions to its crater are a must. See page 104

7 Pompeii It may be obvious, but for good reason – do you really want to return home and say you didn’t bother? See page 106

8 Sorrento Were there ever two resorts more sybaritic than Sorrento and its near neighbour Capri? Of the two, Sorrento is the more down-to-earth and enjoyable, and it’s the best jumping off point for Capri. See page 115

9 Capri It would be a shame to come to Naples and not see Capri – scenically it’s stunning, and on a day-trip you can easily escape the crowds by walking the coast or jumping on a bus. See page 128

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the coast and islands

The great thing about Naples is its proximity to some of the most storied and spectacular resort destinations in Italy. With a full two weeks, you could cover it all, and get to know Naples well; if you have less time, pick from the stops below, skipping over an island or speeding through the Amalfi Coast to Paestum.

1 Naples Before setting off from Naples, take in as much of the city as you can, making sure to see the highlights detailed in our Long Weekend itinerary. See page 50

2 Procida The smallest of the three bay islands has a relaxed, unpretentious feel, with some pretty beaches and even prettier little towns. See page 148

3 Ischia The largest and most diverse of the bay islands, with a raft of activities to enjoy: walking to the summit of the island; exploring La Mortella (a must); and, of course, simply lazing on the beach. See page 138

4 Capri It’s the obvious choice among the islands, and also the most easily explored in a day or so; stay overnight to really get the best out of it. See page 128

5 Sorrento One of the most appealing of all Italian seaside resorts; not to be missed if you want a spot of indolent indulgence. See page 115

6 Amalfi Perhaps the best base for visiting the Amalfi Coast, it’s just a bus ride away from everything and has a great old town and plenty of places to stay and eat. See page 170

7 Ravello Staying overnight here is something special, and feels quite separate from the scrum of the rest of the coast. See page 175

8 Paestum The three grand temples of Paestum form one of the greatest Hellenistic sites in Italy, an evocative sight at any time, but wonderful in the early morning or late evening when there’s no one around. See page 183

outdoors in Campania

Allow a week to ten days for the following itinerary, which combines the best of the region’s landscapes and activities, taking in mountains and sea, walking and watersports.

1 Vesuvius Why visit Naples and not take the chance to hike up to the top of mainland Europe’s only active volcano? See page 104

2 Monte Faito Enjoy great vistas of the bay on the hike – or cable-car ride – from Castellammare di Stabia before heading down the other side to Positano. See page 109

3 Path of the Gods This beautiful hiking trail along the Amalfi Coast is wildly popular and for good reason, providing stunning views down on Positano. See page 168

4 Amalfi There are lots of paths that converge on Amalfi and Ravello, from where you can escape the crowds and explore the wilds of the coastal mountains. See page 170

5 Punta Campanella The region’s only marine nature reserve, well worth visiting if you can get permission. See page 121

6 Monte Solaro Take the ferry from Sorrento – or the Amalfi Coast in high season – to Capri and stand atop its highest point. Don’t miss the islands’ other scenic coastal trails while you’re there. See page 134

7 Benevento The hilly, wooded countryside around this inland town, a 1hr 30min train or bus ride from Naples, begs to be explored on foot – and the beauty is you won’t find many others doing the same. See page 160

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Basics

Getting there

The easiest way to get to Naples from the UK and Ireland is to fly, and the city is served by some of the biggest low-cost operators. There are no direct flights from the US or Canada; most people fly via London or another European gateway and pick up a cheap flight on from there, or fly direct to Rome and take an onward flight or (better) a train – a journey of just over an hour by the fastest rail connection. Australia, New Zealand and South Africa see no direct flights to Italy, but plenty of airlines fly to Rome via Asian or European hubs.

Airfares depend on the season, with the highest being around Easter, from June to August and from Christmas to New Year. Fares drop during the shoulder seasons – September to October and April to May – and you’ll get the best prices during the November-to-March low season (excluding Christmas and New Year). Prices also tend to be cheaper if you travel on weekdays.

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Driving the Amalfi Coast

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Visas and red tape

All EU citizens can enter Italy, and stay as long as they like, on production of a valid passport. Post-Brexit, UK nationals have lost the right to stay indefinitely – like citizens of the United States, Canada, Australia and New Zealand, they can enter Italy with just a valid passport (as long as its expiry date is at least three months after the date they will be returning home), but are limited to stays of ninety days within any 180-day period. If you intend to stay longer, or work or study in Italy, you’ll need a visa. The latest visa requirements are posted here: http://vistoperitalia.esteri.it/home/en. All other nationals should consult the relevant embassies about visa requirements. Legally, you’re required to register with the police within three days of entering Italy; if you’re staying at a hotel, this will be done for you. Some policemen are punctilious about registration, though others would be astonished by any attempt to register yourself at the local station while on holiday. Entry restrictions relating to Covid-19 are in a state of constant flux, but you should work on the basis that you need to be fully vaccinated in order to do anything in Italy – the latest regulations are posted here: http://gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/italy/entry-requirements.

Embassies and consulates in Italy

Apart from a UK Honorary Consul in Cágliari (which cannot be contacted directly), all the following consular agencies are based in Rome:

Australia 06 852 721, http://italy.embassy.gov.au

Canada 06 854 441, http://canadainternational.gc.ca

Ireland 06 585 2381, http://dfa.ie

New Zealand 06 853 7501, http://mfat.govt.nz

South Africa 06 852 541, http://sudafrica.it

UK 06 4220 0001, http://gov.uk

USA 06 46 741, http://it.usembassy.gov

Flights from the UK and Ireland

Though Naples isn’t quite as well served as Milan or Rome, there are regularly scheduled flights from London (2hr 40min) throughout the year, including daily flights with British Airways (http://ba.com) from Gatwick. With the airline industry in crisis, changes and cuts in flight schedules are increasingly likely – the best way to get up-to-date information on who is flying when, from where, is to look at a reliable flight comparison site such as http://skyscanner.net. Bear in mind also that flying to Rome and taking the train is always an option, if you can find a cheap fare.

Flights from the US and Canada

There are no direct options to Naples from North America, and you’ll get the widest choice of flights by flying to Rome and then taking either a connecting flight or a train. The Italian flag-carrier, Ita Airways (formerly known as Alitalia) (http://ita-airways.com), has the most direct routes between the US and Rome. Once again, the best way to find the best route, price and flight times is through a flight comparison website like http://skyscanner.net.

Flights from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

There are no direct flights to anywhere in Italy from Australia, New Zealand or South Africa, although plenty of airlines fly to Rome and Milan from Asian hubs.

Trains

Travelling by train to Italy from the UK can be an enjoyable and environmentally friendly way of getting to the country, though it almost always inevitably costs considerably more than flying, but you can stop off in other parts of Europe on the way. Most trains pass through Paris and head down through France towards Milan.

Rail contacts

Eurostar UK http://eurostar.com.

Rail Europe http://raileurope.com.

The Man in Seat Sixty-One http://seat61.com.

Trainline http://trainline.com

Trenitalia http://trenitalia.com

Tours

There are plenty of tours of Naples and its surroundings on offer – from accompanied walks, hikes and cruises to archeology, cookery and wineries. Depending on your budget, needs and particular interests, it may be worthwhile enlisting a knowledgeable guide here or there.

top 5 Hikes

Bay of Ieranto See page 121

Monte Faito See page 109

Salto dell’Orso See page 161

Sentiero degli Dei See page 168

Sentiero dei Fortini See page 135

Tour operators

UK

Alternative Travel Group http://atg-oxford.co.uk. Inclusive five- to eight-day walking holidays on the Amalfi Coast.

Citalia http://citalia.com. Long-established company offering packages in Sorrento, the Amalfi Coast, Capri and Ischia.

Long Travel http://long-travel.co.uk. Specialists in southern Italian holidays, with plenty of boutique hotels and villas in Naples, Sorrento, the Amalfi Coast and Ischia.

Martin Randall Travel http://martinrandall.com. Inclusive, small-group cultural packages, including a Gardens and the Bay of Naples tour.

Ramblers Worldwide Holidays http://ramblersholidays.co.uk. One- and two-week walking holidays on the Sorrento peninsula.

Sunvil Holidays http://sunvil.co.uk. Package holidays and tailor-made tours based at well-chosen hotels in Amalfi, Ravello, Positano and Sorrento.

US and Canada

The International Kitchen http://theinternationalkitchen.com. Cooking holidays in Ravello, Sorrento and elsewhere, including the Don Alfonso in Sant’Agata, and the Relais Blu in Termini.

Italian Connection http://italian-connection.com. Walking tours and cooking tours on the Amalfi Coast and Capri.

Arrival

Arriving in Naples is more painless than you might think – the train station is central and the airport not far out of town. But it’s worth knowing that the airport is something of a hub for the region, and is almost as well connected to Sorrento, Salerno and the Amalfi Coast as it is to Naples’ city centre. The city’s main train station is also very well integrated with the public transport system, not only across the city but also around the Bay of Naples and beyond.

By plane

Naples’ Capodichino airport (081 789 6111, http://aeroportodinapoli.it) is a little way northeast of the city centre. Alibus (every 15–20min, 6am–11.40pm) buses link the airport with Naples’ Piazza Garibaldi (15min) and the Molo Beverello (handy for the islands; 25min). Tickets can be bought on board. Taxis tend to take almost as long as buses to reach the city centre. Curreri Viaggi (http://curreriviaggi.it) runs around eight buses a day – more in high season – to Sorrento; they take an hour and a quarter. Buses to Salerno are run by various operators and subject to change, but up-to-date links are listed on the airport website (http://aeroportodinapoli.it/in-arrivo/in-autobus).

By train

By train, you’re most likely to arrive at Napoli Centrale, on the edge of the city centre at Piazza Garibaldi, the main hub of city and suburban transport services. Some trains also pull into Stazione Mergellina, on the opposite side of the city centre, which is connected to Piazza Garibaldi by the underground Metropolitana. For train enquiries, check http://trenitalia.com.

By bus

City, suburban and intercity buses also stop on Piazza Garibaldi, from where the main regional companies operate. ATC (http://atcbus.it) runs services to Caserta, while SITA (081 552 2176, http://sitabus.it) goes to Pompeii, Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi and Salerno.

Getting around

The only way to get around central Naples and stay sane is to walk. Driving can be a nightmare, and negotiating the narrow streets, hectic squares and racetrack boulevards on a scooter takes years of training. In any case, you’d miss a lot by not getting around on foot – Naples is the kind of place best appreciated from street level. For longer journeys – and Naples is a big, spread-out city – there are a number of alternatives, both for the city itself and the bay as a whole; for travel beyond Naples, see pages 124 and 162.

Naples transport

The city transport system is run by ANM (http://anm.it). Though crowded and slow, buses will get you pretty much everywhere, but are most useful in areas where Naples’ underground network – the Metropolitana – has yet to reach. The latter is the most convenient way of traversing the city centre (trains roughly every 9min 6am–11pm). Line 1 links the central train station to a handful of useful stops around the old town: Università, Municipio (handy for the port), Toledo, Dante and Museo (beside the Archeological Museum); it then continues up the hill to connect Vomero. As of the time of writing, the Duomo stop is also nearing completion. Line 2 runs from Gianturco to the east of the central train station and has five city centre stops – at Garibaldi, Piazza Cavour, Montesanto, Amedeo and Mergellina – running out to Pozzuoli in about half an hour. Slated to open in 2018, Line 6 will further bolster the city’s underground newtwork by connecting with Line 1 at Municipio with a string of stops in Chiaia and Mergellina.

In addition, three funiculars (every 10min 7am–10pm) scale the hill of the Vomero: the Funicolare di Chiaia, which runs from just above Piazza Amedeo to Cimarosa, just below Piazza Vanvitelli; the Funicolare Centrale, which runs from near the Augusteo station, just off the bottom end of Via Toledo, to Piazza Fuga, also a short walk from ­Vanvitelli; and a third, the Funicolare di Montesanto, running from the station on Piazza Montesanto to Morghen, which is handier for Vomero’s main museums. There is a fourth funicular, from Mergellina to Manzoni, but it’s much less useful, particularly for tourists. The funiculars are either misto – stopping at all stations – or diretto – non-stop to the top.

Taxis

There are fixed taxi fares to some key destinations such as the train station to the airport or Molo Beverello. If you’re not taking one of these routes, make sure the driver switches on the meter when you start (they sometimes don’t). It is also quite common for the driver to write down the agreed fare before leaving. There are taxi ranks at the train station, on Piazza Dante, Piazza del Gesù and Piazza Trieste e Trento, among other places.

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Around the Bay of Naples

For trips around the bay in either direction – or indeed to get from one side of the centre to another, there are three more rail systems. The Circumvesuviana runs about every thirty minutes from its own station on Corso Garibaldi, near Napoli Centrale where it also stops, right around the Bay of Naples. It stops everywhere as far south as Sorrento, which it reaches in about an hour. In the opposite direction, the Ferrovia Cumana heads every ten minutes from its terminus in Piazza Montesanto west to Pozzuoli and Baia, as does the ­Circumflegrea, which takes a different route to the same terminus at Torregaveta. TIC tickets from Unico Campania (see page 38) are valid for all these suburban lines – just let the vendor know where you’re heading. Pick them up in advance from tabacchi, newsstands and stations, or buy them on your phone with Unico Campania’s free app.

Tickets

If you’ll be needing to take more than a single trip on the city’s metro or buses, you can opt instead for a TIC ticket. These are valid on all forms of city transport and cost a flat rate for any number of journeys taken within a 90min period. All-day and week-long tickets are also available. Buy any of these tickets in advance from tabacchi, newsstands or at the stations, and be sure to validate them the first time you use them. For daily or weekly tickets, write your name on the back and be prepared to present ID to ticket inspectors on board. The Campania Artecard, which combines unlimited transport with free entry to various sights and museums is also worth investing in (see page 45). Full information on public transport (in English as well) is available at http://unicocampania.it.

By ferry and hydrofoil

If you’re doing any travelling at all around the Bay of Naples, sooner or later you’re going to have to take a ferry, hydrofoil or catamaran. The good news is that the entire region is extremely accessible by sea, with plentiful connections both to the islands and all around the bay and along the Amalfi Coast. Ferries are cheaper, slower and carry vehicles; as a foot passenger, catamarans and hydrofoils are often the better option but tickets are more expensive. The main operators to the islands are Alicost, Alilauro, Caremar, Medmar, NLG, SNAV, Travelmar and Coop Sant’Andrea. We’ve included more details of ferry services in the relevant chapters, on pages 124 and 166.

USEFUL transport routes

C2 Buses

#R2 Piazza Garibaldi–Corso Umberto I–Piazza Bovio–Via Depretis–Piazza Municipio–Via San Carlo–Piazza Trieste e Trento–Piazza Municipio–Via Medina–Via Sanfelice–Corso Umberto I–Piazza Garibaldi.

#R4 Via Cardarelli–Via Capodimonte–Piazza Dante–Via Depretis–Piazza Dante–Via Capodimonte–Via Cardarelli.

#140 Capo Posillipo–Via Mergellina–Piazza Vittoria–Via Riviera di Chiaia–Via Santa Lucia–Via Riviera di Chiaia–Via Mergellina–Capo Posillipo.

#151 Piazza Garibaldi–Via Depretis–Molo Beverello–Piazza Vittoria–Riviera di Chiaia–Via Fuorigrotta–Riviera di Chiaia–Molo Beverello–Piazza Garibaldi.

METROPOLITANA

Line 1 City-centre stops on Line 1 include Garibaldi, Duomo, Università, Municipio, Toledo, Dante