Leaves from Our Tuscan Kitchen: Or How to Cook Vegetables

By Janet Ross

Leaves from Our Tuscan Kitchen is a classic Tuscan cookbook written in the early 20th century.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Charles River Editors
• Release date: Mar 22, 2018
• ISBN: 9781531289669

Book preview

LEAVES FROM OUR TUSCAN KITCHEN

..................

Or How to Cook Vegetables

Janet Ross

LACONIA PUBLISHERS

Thank you for reading. If you enjoy this book, please leave a review or connect with the author.

All rights reserved. Aside from brief quotations for media coverage and reviews, no part of this book may be reproduced or distributed in any form without the author’s permission. Thank you for supporting authors and a diverse, creative culture by purchasing this book and complying with copyright laws.

Copyright © 2016 by Janet Ross

Interior design by Pronoun

Distribution by Pronoun

TABLE OF CONTENTS

LEAVES FROM OUR TUSCAN KITCHEN

PREFACE

INTRODUCTION

RECIPES

MACCARONI AND OTHER PASTES.

Maccaroni ‘alla Béchamel.’

Maccaroni ‘alla Crema.’

Maccaroni ‘al Forno.’ No. 1.

Maccaroni ‘al Forno’ No. 1.

Maccaroni ‘al Forno.’ No. 3.

Maccaroni ‘au Gratin.’

Maccaroni ‘all’ Italiana.’

Maccaroni ‘al Latte.’

Maccaroni ‘alla Napolitana.’

Maccaroni ‘alla Quaresima.’

Maccaroni ‘alla Semplice.’

Maccaroni ‘alla Siciliana.’

Maccaroni ‘Timbale alla Milanese.’

Maccaroni ‘Timbale alla Napolitana.’

OTHER PASTES.

Agnellotti ‘alla Poggio Gherardo.’

Crescioni.

Gnocchi ‘alla Romana.’

Gnocchi of Semolina.

Pappardelle with Hare.

Spaghetti ‘con Acciughe.’

Spaghetti ‘al Forno.’

Spaghetti ‘all’ Italiana.’

Spaghetti ‘alla Napolitana.’

Spaghetti, Timbaletti di.

Tagliarini ‘al Formaggio.’

Tagliatelle with Ham.

Tagliatelle ‘alla Romagnola.’

Tagliatelle with Sausages.

Tortelli.

Macedoine of Vegetables.

Mushrooms (Pratajuoli) ‘al Burro.’

Mushrooms (Porcini) ‘alla Casalinga.’

Mushrooms (Pratajuoli) ‘alla Crema.’

Mushrooms (Porcini) ‘alla Francese.’

Mushrooms (Porcini) Fried. No. 1.

Mushrooms (Porcini) Fried. No. 2.

Mushrooms (Porcini) Grilled.

Mushrooms (Porcini) ‘all’ Intingolo.’

Mushrooms (Prugnuoli) ‘alla Spagnuola.’

Mushrooms (Dormienti) ‘al Sugo.’

Mushrooms (Pratajuoli) on Toast.

Mushrooms (Porcini) with Tomato Sauce.

Mushrooms (Ovoli) ‘Trippati.’

Onions ‘Farcite.’

Onions Fried.

Onions ‘Glacées.’

Onions (Small White).

Onions ‘in Stufato.’

Parsnips ‘alla Crema.’

Parsnips ‘al Forno.’

Parsnips ‘Fritte.’

Parsnips ‘Sautés.’

Peas ‘all’ Antica.’

Peas ‘alla Borghese.’

Peas ‘al Burro.’

Peas ‘alla Consommé.’

Peas ‘alla Crema.’

Peas ‘alla Francese.’ No. 1.

Peas ‘alla Francese.’ No. 2.

Peas ‘al Buon Gusto.’

Peas ‘all’ Inglese.’

Pea Omelette.

Pease-pudding.

Peas in their Pods.

Peas ‘allo Stufato.’

Peas ‘allo Zucchero.’

Polenta ‘Dabs.’

Polenta ‘alla Parmigiana.’

Polenta with Sausages.

Potatoes Boiled.

Potatoes ‘alla Borghese.’

Potatoes ‘alla Campagnuola.’

Potatoes ‘in Casseruola.’

Potatoes ‘alla Crema.’

Potato Croquettes. No. 1.

Potato Croquettes. No. 2.

Potato ‘Farcite.’

Potatoes ‘al Forno’ No. 1.

Potatoes ‘al Forno’ No. 2.

Potatoes ‘in Frittata’ (Omelette).

Potatoes ‘alla Semplicità.’

Potatoes ‘Fritti alla Francese.’

Potatoes ‘in Frittura.’

Potato ‘Gnocchi.’

Potatoes ‘all Italiana.’

Potatoes ‘alla Gran Duchessa.’

Potatoes ‘alla Lionese.’

Potatoes ‘alla Maître d’Hotel.’

Potatoes ‘all’ Olandese.’

Potatoes ‘alla Panna.’

Potato Pudding.

Potato Pudding with Mushrooms (Bodino con Prugnuoli).

Potatoes ‘in Ragoût.’

Potatoes ‘Arrostite’ (Roasted).

Potatoes ‘Sautées.’

Potatoes ‘in Stufato.’

Potatoes ‘Tartufate.’

Potatoes ‘all’ Umido.’

Pumpkins ‘alla Fiorentina.’

Pumpkins ‘Frittt.’

Pumpkin Pudding (Bodino).

Pumpkins ‘Ripiene.’ No. 1.

Pumpkins ‘Ripiene’ (maigre). No. 2.

Rice (How to cook).

Rice ‘alla Casalinga.’

Rice Croquettes.

Rice with Tomatoes. No. 1.

Rice with Tomatoes. No. 2.

Rice with Prawns.

Rice with Quails.

Rice ‘alla Ristori.’

Risotto ‘alla Milanese.’ No. 1.

Risotto ‘alla Milanese’ No. 2.

Risotto with Peas.

Risotto ‘alla Poggio Gherardo.’

SALADS.

Artichoke Salad.

Beetroot Salad.

Broccoli Salad.

Cabbage Salad.

‘Alla Cardinale’ Salad.

Cauliflower Salad.

Celery Salad.

Cucumber and Tomato Salad.

‘All’ Egiziana’ Salad.

French Beans Salad.

‘All’ Italiana’ Salad.

Lettuce Salad.

Lettuce Salad ‘alla Francese.’

Lettuce Salad with Veal (or Fish).

‘Alla Macedone’ Salad.

‘Alla Pollastra’ Salad.

Potato Salad. No. 1.

Potato Salad. No. 2.

Potato Salad. No. 3.

Potato Salad. No. 4.

‘Alla Russa’ Salad.

Spanish Onion Salad.

Summer Salad. No. 1.

Summer Salad. No. 2.

Tomato Salad. No. 1.

Tomato Salad. No. 2.

Tomato Salad. No. 3.

Tomato Salad. No. 4.

Tomato Salad. No. 5.

Tomato Jelly Salad.

Tomatoes and Celery (Salad of).

Watercress Salad.

SAUCES

Roux for Sauces.

Agro Dolce Sauce.

Bearnese Sauce.

Béchamel Sauce. No. 1.

Béchamel Sauce. No. 2.

Béchamel Sauce. No. 3.

Béchamel Sauce (Maigre). No. 4.

Broccoli (Sauce for).

Caper Sauce. No. 1.

Caper Sauce ‘alla Genovese.’ No. 2.

Caper Sauce ‘alla Milanese’ No. 3.

Cold Caper Sauce. No. 4.

Butter Sauce. No. 1.

Butter Sauce. No. 2. (Melted Butter.)

Francese Sauce.

Lombarda Sauce.

Mayonnaise Sauce.

Mayonnaise Monte Bianco Sauce.

Mayonnaise Sauce ‘alla Ravigote.’

Olandese Sauce.

‘Alla Panna’ Sauce.

Suprema Sauce. No. 1.

Suprema Sauce. No. 2.

Tartara Sauce. No. 1.

Tartara Sauce. No. 2.

Tomato Sauce. No. 1.

Tomato Sauce. No. 2.

Vellutata Sauce.

Sorrel Purée.

Sorrel Purée (Maigre),

Sorrel Stewed.

SOUPS.

Artichoke Soup.

Artichoke Soup (Purée).

Asparagus Soup.

Carrot Soup.

Chestnut Soup.

Lentil Soup. No. 1.

Lentil Soup. No. 2.

Lettuce Soup.

Potato Soup ‘alla Provinciale.’

Potato Soup ‘alla Romana.’

Pumpkin Soup. No. 1.

Pumpkin Soup. No. 2.

Onion Soup. No. 1.

Onion Soup ‘Purée alla Soubise.’ No. 2.

Palestine Soup.

Pea Soup.

Polentina ‘alla Veneziana.’

Sorrel Soup.

Spinach Soup ‘alla Modenese.’

Tomato Soup. No. 1.

Tomato Soup (Maigre). No. 2.

Turnip Soup.

Vegetable Soup (Mixed).

Vegetable and Cream Soup.

Spinach ‘al Burro.’

Spinach ‘alla Crema.’

Spinach Croquettes.

Spinach ‘Ravioli alla Fiorentina.’

Spinach Fried.

Spinach Pudding with Mushrooms. (Bodino con Funghi.)

Spinach ‘in Riccioli.’

Spinach Soufflé.

Tomatoes Broiled.

Tomatoes ‘in Conchiglia.’

Tomatoes ‘al Forno.’ No. 1.

Tomatoes ‘al Forno.’ No. 1.

Tomatoes ‘al Forno.’ No. 3.

Tomatoes ‘Fritti.’

Tomatoes ‘alla Graticola.’

Tomatoes Iced.

Tomatoes ‘all’ Indiana.’

Tomatoes ‘al Pane.’

Tomato Pudding.

Tomato Purée.

Tomatoes ‘Ripieni.’

Tomatoes ‘al Riso.’

Tomatoes Stewed.

Tomatoes ‘in Umido.’

Tomatoes ‘con Uova.’

Truffles in Champagne.

Truffles and Cheese.

Truffles (Maigre).

Truffles in Omelette.

Truffles ‘alla Panna!

Truffles Sautés.

Truffles Stewed.

Truffles ‘sul tovagliolo.’

FURTHER RECIPES ADDED TO THE FIFTH EDITION

SOUPS.

LEAVES FROM OUR TUSCAN KITCHEN

..................

OR HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES

BY

JANET ROSS

To Mrs. G. F. Watts

Dear friend, will you accept this little book?

It may sometimes bring a thought of Italy into your beautiful Surrey home

PREFACE

..................

THE INNATE LOVE OF CHANGE in man is visible even in the kitchen. Not so very long ago soup was an exception in English houses—almost a luxury. A dish of vegetables—as a dish and not an adjunct to meat—was a still greater rarity; and even now plain-boiled potatoes, peas, cabbages, etc., are the rule. When we read of the dishes, fearfully and wonderfully made, in the old Italian novelle, we wonder whence the present Italians got their love of vegetables and maccaroni.

Sacchetti tells us that in the fourteenth century a baked goose, stuffed with garlic and quinces, was considered an exquisite dish; and when the gonfalonier of Florence gave a supper to a famous doctor, he put before him the stomach of a calf, boiled partridges, and pickled sardines. Gianfigliazzi’s cook sent up a roasted crane to his master as a delicacy, says Boccaccio; and a dish of leeks cooked with spices appears as a special dish in the rules of the chapter of San Lorenzo when the canons messed together. Old Laschi, author of that delightful book L’Osservatore Fiorentino, moralises on the ancient fashion of cooking in his pleasant rather prosy way: ‘It would not seem that the senses should be subjected to fashion; and yet such is the case. The perfumes, once so pleasing, musk, amber, and benzoin, now excite convulsions; sweet wines, such as Pisciancio, Verdea, Montalcino, and others mentioned by Redi in his dithyrambic, are now despised; and instead of the heavy dishes of olden times, light and elegant ones are in vogue. Whoever characterised man as a laughing animal ought rather to have called him a variable and inconstant one.’

The dinner which set all Siena laughing for days, given to a favourite of Pius II. by a Sienese who substituted wild geese for peacocks, after cutting off their beaks and feet, and coloured his jelly with poisonous ingredients, forms the subject of one of Pulci’s tales:—

‘Meanwhile it was ordered that hands should be washed, and Messer Goro was seated at the head of the table, and then other courtiers who had accompanied him; and they ate many tarts of good almond paste as a beginning. Then was brought to Messer Goro the dish on which were the peacocks without beaks, and a fellow was told to carve them. He not being used to such office gave himself vast trouble to pluck them, but did it with so little grace that he filled the room and all the table with feathers, and the eyes, the mouth, the nose, and the ears of Messer Goro, and of them all. They, perceiving that it was from want of knowledge, held their peace, and took a mouthful here and there of other dishes so as not to disturb the order of the feast. But they were always swallowing dry feathers. Falcons and hawks would have been convenient that evening. When this pest had been removed many other roasts were brought, but all most highly seasoned with cumin. Everything would however have been pardoned if at the last an error had not been committed, which out of sheer folly nearly cost Messer Goro and those with him their lives. Now you must know that the master of the house and his councillors, in order to do honour to his guest, had ordered a dish of jelly. They wanted, as is the fashion in Florence and elsewhere, to have the arms of the Pope and of Messer Goro with many ornaments on it; so they used orpiment, white and red lead, verdigris and other horrors, and set this before Messer Goro as a choice and new thing. And Messer Goro and his companions ate willingly of it to take the bitter taste of the cumin and the other strange dishes out of their mouths, thinking, as is the custom in every decent place, that they were all coloured with saffron, milk of sweet almonds, the juices of herbs, and such like. And in the night it was just touch and go that some of them did not stretch out their legs. Messer Goro especially suffered much anguish from both head and stomach. . . .’

A company of Lombard pastrycooks came to Tuscany in the sixteenth century, and introduced fine pastry into Florence. We find the first mention of it in Berni’s Orlando Innamorato, where it is mentioned among the choice viands. Laschi says, ‘the epoch of Charles V. is the greatest of modern times, for the culture of the spirit induced the culture of the body.’ But he does not mention vegetables or herbs at all. For them we must go back to the ancients. Bitterly did the Israelites, when wandering in the desert, regret ‘the cucumbers and the melons we did eat in Egypt’; though old Gerarde says, ‘they yield to the body a cold and moist nourishment, and that very little, and the same not good.’ Gerarde is however hard to please, for he says of egg-plants, under the old English name of Raging or Mad Apples, ‘doubtless these apples have a mischievous qualitie, the use whereof is utterly to be forsaken.’

Fennel, dedicated to St. John, was believed to make the lean fat