La Varenne Pratique: Part 3, Vegetables, Pasta & Grains

By Anne Willan

Still innovative in scope and clarity La Varenne Pratique is the essential culinary reference book for novice and expert cooks alike, bringing together a practical understanding of cooking techniques, ingredients and equipment in an unrivaled guide.

• Language: English
• Publisher: BookBaby
• Release date: Sep 17, 1989
• ISBN: 9780991134625

Anne Willan

Anne Willan founded La Varenne Cooking School in Paris in 1975 and has written more than thirty books, including the double James Beard Award­–winning, The Country Cooking of France, the Gourmand Award­–winning The Cookbook Library, and the groundbreaking La Varenne Pratique, as well as the Look & Cook series, showcased on PBS. In 2013, she was inducted into the James Beard Foundation Awards Hall of Fame. Willan serves as an Emeritus Advisor for The Julia Child Foundation for Gastronomy and the Culinary Arts. She divides her time between London and the south of France.

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Copyright © 2013 Anne Willan, Inc.

Print copyright @ 1989 Anne Willan

www.lavarenne.com

All rights reserved. Published by Anne Willan, Inc.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission of the publisher.

For information regarding permission, write to:

Anne Willan, Inc.

P.O. Box 5180

Santa Monica, CA 90409-5180

v2013.1

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Available

Willan, Anne

La VarennePratique/by Anne Willan

ISBN 978-0-9911346-2-5 (ebook)

All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, non transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, down-loaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of publisher.

For the conception and planning of La Varenne Pratique Anne Willan would like to thank Jonathan Clowes and Jill Norman.

The contribution of those listed below is recorded with appreciation.

Chief editor: Amanda Phillips Manheim

Consultant editors: Mark Cherniavsky, Henry Grossi, Barbara Wheaton

Contributing author: Barbara Kafka

Techniques demonstrated by: Chef Claude Vauguet, Director of cuisine at Ecole de Cuisine La Varenne, Paris and Burgundy, assisted by Pastry Chef Laurent Terrasson.

Assistant editors: Laura Garrett, Martha Holmberg

Nutritional consultant: Carol Gvozdich.

Recipe testing and development: Henry Grossi, Randall Price

Technique photography by Jerry Young

Recipe photography by Martin Brigdale

Dishes prepared by Jane Suthering

Art directed by Jacquie Gulliver

Project editor: Emma Johnson

Senior editor: Anderley Moore

Managing editor: Victoria Davenport

Consultant editors: Jill Norman, Jane Grigson

American editor: Erica Marcus

Jacket design: Nancy Kenmore

Production: Eunice Paterson, Henrietta Winthrop

For researching and drafting the following chapters Anne Willan owes a special debt to the following contributors:

Henry Grossi: Soups and Stocks, Pasta, Herbs, Spices and Flavorings,Kitchen Equipment.

Faye Levy: Sugar and Chocolate, Fats and Oils.

Amanda Phillips Manheim: Vegetables, Fruits and Nuts, Grains and Legumes.

Steve Raichlen: Flours, Breads and Batters.

Lynn Stallworth and Martha Holmberg: Preserving and Freezing

Anne Willan would also like to acknowledge expert review and guidance

from Geoff Palmer (plant science) and Jon Rowley (fish)

from Shirley Corriher, Elisabeth Evans, Judith Hill and Susan Stuck

Sources of technical or commercial information consulted in the USA include: American Meat Institute; California Sunshine Fine Foods; Fisheries Development Foundations; Fleischmann’s Yeast; Flying Food; Frieda’s Finest; Lundberg Family Farms; National Meat and Livestock Board; Rodale Institute; South Mills Mushrooms Sales; The Sugar Institute; United Dairy Industry Association; United Fresh Fruit and Vegetables Association; United States Department of Commerce, Office of Fisheries; University of Maryland, Department of Horticulture; Paradise Bay Co., Washington for supplying fresh salmon. In Britain, special acknowledgement is due to Department of Zoology, British Museum (Natural History) for expert help and advice; Elizabeth David Cookshop, Covent Garden, for supplying kitchen equipment; The Mushroom Growers Association.

Digital Foreword

In the print edition of La Varenne Pratique, I wrote, Modern technology, has in effect, transformed how we stock our kitchen and how we handle and prepare food. Some 20 years later, modern technology has transformed the way we consume cookbooks. The original La Varenne Pratique, despite selling more than 500,000 copies worldwide, went out of print. With the original harder to find and more expensive to buy, I felt the time was right to create an eBook edition to make La Varenne Pratique affordable and accessible once again.

This eBook is a digital reproduction of the original, created by scanning in every one of the book's 500-plus pages. Digitizing this complicated book was not without challenges. If a page does not format as you would expect, we suggest that you change the font, font size, or page orientation. The eBook’s images can be enlarged, though they cannot be magnified beyond a certain point, as the images are scans from the original printed book, not high-resolution digital photographs. That said, the images themselves are larger, and easier to study, than those in the original print edition.

We decided to divide the book into four parts to make it easier for readers to digest. Now you can download only the part of greatest interest or all of them as you see fit. To the devotees of the print edition, don’t worry: nothing is missing! Every image and every accent has made it safely across the digital divide. We dropped the index as the search function puts a static index to shame. You can quickly find any term, technique, word or phrase at the push of a button.

While we have sliced, diced and digitized the original to fit modern times, this eBook edition of La Varenne Pratique still celebrates the pleasures of the table inside and outside the kitchen just as before. To everyone who has cherished the print edition and to those who are just discovering the digital one, I again say, bon appetit!

ANNE WILLAN

Santa Monica, California 2013

Preface

In the past 30 years I have had the good fortune to work in food and in cooking in three different countries—France, Great Britain and the United States. This book is the distillation of that experience. It is also the fruit of almost continuous writing and research, much of it associated with La Varenne, the cooking school which I founded in Paris in 1975.

As its name implies, La Varenne Pratique is a book for the practicing cook. The point of departure is that mastery of ingredients is as important to success in the kitchen as mastery of technique. In each chapter, therefore, we consider carefully how to choose ingredients, how to store them, and indeed how to identify them in the first place. Modern technology has, in effect, transformed how we stock our kitchen and how we handle and prepare our food.

Allied with good ingredients must be a knowledge of technique, and it is here that French skill comes into play. The action photographs in this book were shot with French chefs in the heart of France, yet the techniques they demonstrate have universal application, covering such basics as chopping an onion, as well as the complexities of boning a rabbit and tempering chocolate. The principles of cooking apply equally to English roast beef and to a Texas barbecue.

With a knowledge of ingredients and technique, recipes follow naturally. You’ll find a few of them here to illustrate possibilities, together with lists of many more ideas from around the world. La Varenne Pratique celebrates the pleasures of the table inside and outside the kitchen. It is dedicated to those who love to cook, and those who love to eat. To you all, bon appetit!

ANNE WILLAN

Paris, May 1989

Weights and Measures

Part 3

VEGETABLES

MUSHROOMS

GRAINS & LEGUMES

PASTA

VEGETABLES

Today, vegetables play a major role at almost every meal. Yet it was not until the 1950s that our current fascination with fresh, high quality produce began. In recent years, the abundance and diversity of vegetables in local markets has resulted in a far larger repertoire of dishes that complement meat and fish or stand on their own.

Just a few generations ago, the seasons strictly defined which vegetables were available: few people could afford young vegetables or pay the market price for scarce, imported produce. Today’s bounty is the product of modern cultivation, genetic engineering and improved transportation. New varieties and hybrids are constantly being selected and developed, and the consumer is now offered a great variety of produce of a uniform size, color and shelf-life, although often at the expense of flavor.

At the peak of their season, fresh vegetables come to life with a minimum of seasoning, perhaps salt and pepper or a dash of lemon juice or herbs. As well as being served alone or in combination, some vegetables, such as onions and tomatoes, become an integral part of the flavoring of certain dishes, lending richness as they cook. Vegetables are naturally high in vitamins and nutrients, contain little fat and no cholesterol. However, nutritive content, like quality, varies according to factors such as weather, soil conditions and variety.

Choosing vegetables

Refrigerated transportation of vegetables ensures a steady supply of fresh produce at the supermarket. In the depth of a northern winter, fresh vegetables are shipped from warmer regions, often in the southern hemisphere. Owing to modern methods of preserving and shelf-life extension of perishable vegetables, the cook is provided year-round with an astonishing array of both familiar and unusual types.

Each individual vegetable has its own indicator of quality, but generally crispness and bright color are the key to freshness. Vegetables past their prime are betrayed by brown patches, wilted leaves and limp flesh. Avoid any vegetables that are damaged, bruised or frostbitten. The younger and smaller the vegetable, the more tender and sweet it will be, although vegetables that are actually immature often lack juiciness and may be bitter. Some markets now sell baby vegetables, including tiny zucchini, cherry-sized squash and finger-length corn; many are dwarf varieties, others are regular varieties picked at an early stage, without the flavor or sweetness of the fully mature vegetable. Small squashes, however, are always sweet, with more flavor than larger specimens.

Certain varieties of tomato, lettuce and cucumber are grown hydroponically, that is, with their roots in nutrient-rich water instead of soil. These vegetables are pretty to look at, but their flavor is usually more bland than those grown in soil. For further details on choosing vegetables, see individual entries.

Storing vegetables

Root vegetables and hardy winter squashes keep well at cool room temperature around 60°F/16°C. Cut the tops off root vegetables to prevent juices flowing to the leaves. Store greens and soft vegetables, such as cucumbers, in the refrigerator, on the lower shelves or in the crisper compartment, loosely folded in plastic wrap or a cloth (airtight wrapping encourages bacteria). Do not wash vegetables until just before you use them, as moisture encourages rot and leaches vitamins. Different vegetables are best stored separately and away from fruits, which emit a gas that makes carrots bitter, for example. Onions cause potatoes to spoil more quickly, and taint dairy products, such as milk.

Peeling vegetables

Vegetables that absorb water easily, such as potatoes, are often boiled or steamed with the skin left on so that they retain vitamins and absorb less moisture. Beets will not bleed if cooked with their skin. Vegetables that are waxed, such as cucumbers and peppers, should be peeled before using; a vegetable peeler or small paring knife is the best utensil. Peppers are usually charred to loosen their skins, while tomatoes are blanched. Some vegetables, such as eggplant and squash, may be baked first and the cooked flesh scooped out of the skin.

Note Many modern pesticides concentrate in vegetable skin and cannot be removed simply by washing in water. Peeling vegetables therefore reduces the likelihood of contamination.

Cutting vegetables by hand

Carefully cut vegetables not only cook evenly, but contribute to the appearance of a dish. Good sharp knives are essential for cutting; use a large or small chopping knife, depending on the vegetable. It is important that you handle the knife correctly. Grasp the knife firmly with all four fingers wrapped around the handle. Use your free hand to steady the vegetable as you cut, with your fingertips curled under and your knuckles guiding the knife.

A machine can make cutting vegetables much easier. The two most efficient and widely used are the hand-operated mandoline, good at producing perfectly formed slices, and the food processor, where speed and ease of operation compensate for lack of precision. Using a variety of blades and disks, a food processor can grate zucchini, chop onions or cut carrots into julienne with ease. With the cutting blade, however, vegetables can easily be overworked to a pulp.

Slicing vegetables

First peel the vegetable. If it does not sit flat on a cutting board, cut a slice from the base or cut it in half. Slice in even, vertical slices. With each cut, move the hand holding the vegetable so as to guide the knife. Alternatively, cut the vegetable diagonally for larger, more attractive slices. See also individual vegetables.

CUTTING INTO JULIENNE STRIPS

Julienne strips—fine strips of vegetable the size of a matchstick—cook quickly and make a garnish for many dishes. Juliennes of different colored vegetables, such as carrot, leek and turnip, are often mixed for decorative effect.

1 Peel the vegetable and cut a thin strip from one side so that the vegetable lies flat on the board.

2 Cut the vegetable crosswise into 2 in/5 cm lengths, then lengthwise into thin vertical slices.

3 Stack the slices and cut them lengthwise again into strips. For very fine strips, continue cutting, keeping the tip of the knife on the board.

SLICING INTO A CHIFFONADE

Vegetable leaves such as cabbage, spinach, and lettuce may be cut into coarse shreds, known as a chiffonade. Large-leaved herbs such as basil may also be cut this way.

1 Stack the leaves (here romaine lettuce is used) and roll the pile tightly.

2 Slice across the roll to make fine or coarse strips, depending on the leaf you are using.

DICING VEGETABLES

Cubed or diced vegetables may be used as the foundation of braises and casseroles, as a flavoring mixture (mirepoix), raw or cooked in vegetable salads or soups, or as a garnish for consommé (brunoise, below).

1 Peel the vegetable. Square off the sides, reserving trimmings for soups or purées. Slice the vegetable vertically, cutting thickly for large dice, thinly for small dice.

2 Stack the slices and cut even strips of uniform thickness.

3 Gather the strips together into a pile and slice them evenly crosswise to produce dice of the required size.

TURNING VEGETABLES

Vegetables may be turned or whittled into a classic olive shape, usually the size of an elongated walnut, traditionally with seven sides. Turned vegetables cook evenly, look attractive and are a hallmark of classic French dishes. Use the parings for soups.

1 For round vegetables (here turnip): cut the vegetables in quarters or eighths, depending on size. If necessary, halve each piece lengthwise.

2 For long vegetables (here zucchini): cut the vegetables into 2 in/5 cm lengths. If necessary, halve each piece lengthwise.

3 Hold the vegetable steady with your fingertips and, with a small paring knife, trim all the sharp edges.

4 Work from the top to the bottom of the vegetable in a quick curving movement, turning the vegetable slightly between each cut.

5 The finished vegetables should be of uniform size and shape. For zucchini and summer squash, some of the skin may be left on for decorative effect.

ROLL-CUTTING VEGETABLES

This Asian technique, adapted by many Western cooks, produces pieces of uniform shape, each with the maximum amount of surface area, perfect for quick-cooking sautés and stir-fried dishes. Long vegetables such as carrots and parsnips work best.

Holding the peeled vegetable in one hand, cut a diagonal slice near the end. Turn the vegetable a quarter turn and make another diagonal slice. Continue to turn and cut until all the vegetable is used.

Cutting vegetables in balls

Root vegetables and squashes may be scooped into decorative balls or ovals with a melon baller. They cook and brown very evenly. Sizes vary from pea-size for soups to small walnut-size for parisienne of potato balls sautéed in butter. First, peel or cut open the vegetable. Then, with a scooping movement, press the cutter firmly into the vegetable to form a round ball.

Blanching and parboiling vegetables

Vegetables are often blanched in boiling water before further cooking. Some, like cabbage, are blanched to remove a strong flavor; vegetables with a sharp taste such as onion, or with bitter juices, such as eggplant, also benefit. Blanching softens root vegetables, prevents pale vegetables such as Jerusalem artichokes from discoloring, sets the color of greens and loosens the skin of vegetables like tomatoes to facilitate peeling. The method depends on how the vegetable is cooked; green vegetables and tomatoes are blanched in boiling water, while roots are started in cold water and the blanching time counted from the moment the water comes to a boil. Different vegetables should be blanched separately, though similar types used in the same dish can be blanched together.

To blanch vegetables, fill a large pan with water, adding salt only if called for in the recipe. Depending on the vegetable, add it to cold water, or first bring water to a boil. Bring the water back to a boil as fast as possible, counting blanching time from when the water reboils. Time may be as short as one minute for delicate greens such as lettuce, or as long as five minutes for carrots.

Parboiling (partly boiling) vegetables goes a step further than blanching but is done the same way. Tough vegetables, such as celery root, are often parboiled so that further cooking is easier to control. Vegetables that are to be deep-fried are parboiled so that they will be fully cooked by the time they are golden and crisp on the outside. Blanching and parboiling may often be done ahead and the vegetables kept up to 24 hours in the refrigerator.

DRAWING OUT BITTER JUICES WITH SALT

The French term dégorger is often used for this process, which draws out the sometimes bitter juices from ingredients, usually vegetables such as eggplant, cucumber or bitter melon (a type of gourd).

1 Cut the vegetable in slices or chunks with a large sharp knife. Spread the pieces in a shallow dish and sprinkle evenly with salt. Note Drawing out the juices also helps firm up the texture of the vegetable so that it holds its shape.

2 After 15-30 minutes, the salt will have drawn out the juices. Transfer the vegetable pieces to a colander and rinse thoroughly. Dry on paper towels.

Preventing discoloration

Vegetables that discolor easily, such as celery root, salsify and artichoke bottoms, may be cooked in a blanc (below) or with acid to keep them white. They should also be cut with a stainless steel knife to prevent discoloration from carbon steel, and the pieces should be dropped into acidulated water until all the vegetables are prepared and ready for cooking.

1 To make a blanc: bring a pan of salted water to a boil. Make a soft paste by stirring water into flour, allowing 3 tbsp/45 ml water and 1 tbsp flour for every 1 qt/1 L of water. Stir this into the boiling water and add the juice of half a lemon for every 1 qt/1 L. Add the vegetables and boil for the usual time.

2 Acidulated water: add the juice of two lemons to 1 qt/1 L cold water. Immerse the vegetables until ready to cook them.

Testing when vegetables are cooked

In some countries, notably China and the United States, vegetables are cooked until crisp and crunchy (al dente). In Europe, they are often cooked until tender with a fuller flavor but less texture. Test for tenderness with a fork or the point of a knife. Greens will wilt as soon as they are tender. When in doubt, test vegetables by tasting them, as they can overcook rapidly.

Boiling vegetables

Boiled vegetables, always versatile, may be served plain, sautéed in butter, or with a sauce; they may be puréed or added warm or cold to a salad. Boiled vegetables turn up in crêpes and terrines as well as in savory pies. They are the basis for many soufflés, soups and stews, and are an integral part of French pot au feu and American boiled dinner. They also make excellent salads on their own, such as potato, green beans or beet with vinaigrette or mayonnaise.

The method and speed of boiling vegetables are all-important: green vegetables are cooked quickly, while roots must be simmered slowly. Plunging green vegetables into a large quantity of boiling salted water keeps cooking time to a minimum, and allows the vegetables to retain their color, texture and taste. Always boil green vegetables uncovered, so that volatile acids from the vegetables will not get trapped in the pan and cause discoloration. For root vegetables, heat must penetrate slowly to cook them through. Immerse the vegetables in plenty of cold water, then bring it to a gentle simmer. Note Asparagus and artichokes should not be boiled in an aluminum pan as they will discolor and acquire a metallic taste.

There is no equal to tiny boiled new vegetables, tossed at the last minute with a knob of butter and fresh chopped herbs. More mature vegetables can be enlivened with garlic or chopped nuts, or coated with cream or cheese sauce and browned in the oven as a gratin. The British favor boiled new potatoes and peas with mint, the Italians often sauté boiled broccoli and cauliflower in olive oil, garlic and herbs with a little chopped chili, while in Germany, bacon-flavored brown sauce is a favorite topping for boiled turnips, potatoes or carrots.

Refreshing vegetables

After boiling, green vegetables are often drained and refreshed under cold water to set their color, texture and flavor. To avoid running a strong stream of water over delicate vegetables, immerse them in a bowl of cold water and drain them again. The vegetables can then be reheated in butter or oil, or cooked further, for example in a gratin. Root vegetables that are to be stored after cooking or used in cold salads may also be chilled with cold water.

Steaming vegetables

An alternative to boiling vegetables is to steam them above boiling water, leaving them intact, yet moist and tender. Almost any vegetable can be steamed; if done correctly, more of the nutrients and flavor are preserved than when the vegetable is

Reviews for La Varenne Pratique

[clueless_1 · Rating: 5 out of 5 stars]

The only cookbook you will ever need. This was so helpful when I was living in Asia. I could just point at the picture of the exotic produce to the maid and hold up however many fingers I wanted to tell her how much to buy.Everything is from scratch in this book so if you're the kind of person who seems to always find yourself living where you can't readily get processed food...or if you just like to know what the heck is in stuff this is a great cookbook.