Chow Italy: Eat Well, Spend Less (Rome 2013)

By Christina Baglivi Tinglof

If you're traveling to Italy in search of an authentic culinary experience but don't want to break the bank in the process then skip those expensive ristoranti and head straight to the nearest trattoria, those unassuming mom-and-pop eateries where you'll find home-cooked, regional cuisine for a price that any traveler can afford. Chow Italy: Eat Well, Spend Less (Rome 2013) will guide you to more than 80 trattorie in eleven neighborhoods throughout the Eternal City. Each listing contains pertinent information such as address and hours of operation, a link to a Google or Bing map, plus a description of ambiance and chef’s specials. Pull up a fork at Trattoria da Tonino Al Governo near the Piazza Navona, for instance, and dig into a bowl of rigatoni alla’amatriciana for a mere €5. Or, if you find yourself hungry after a long morning touring the Coliseum, then nothing could satisfy better than fettucine ai funghi porcini at the small and modest Trattoria da Luzzi. The price? Only €6. With Chow Italy you’ll eat well but spend less.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Christina Baglivi Tinglof
• Release date: Jan 8, 2013
• ISBN: 9781301983049

Christina Baglivi Tinglof

As an Italian-American growing up in her grandfather's pizzeria at the Jersey Shore (anyone remember La Grotta in Long Branch?), Christina Baglivi Tinglof learned what good, regional Italian food was from an early age. She soon turned her love of Italian food, writing, and photography into a career. Her travel features have been published in the Los Angeles Times, the Chicago Tribune, the Boston Herald and dozens of other newspapers. She’s also the author of five books including Northern Italy: A Taste of Trattoria, her first guidebook and the inspiration for this e-book series.

Book preview

CHOW ITALY:

Eat Well, Spend Less

Rome 2013

Christina Baglivi Tinglof

Cover Design and Interior Maps by Kevin Tinglof

Text Copyright ©2013 Christina Baglivi Tinglof

All Rights Reserved.

Smashwords Edition

No portion of this e-book may be reproduced in any manner without the permission of the author.

ISBN: 9781301983049

www.chowitaly.com

Table of Contents

Introduction

Welcome to Rome

Near the Vatican

Near the Spanish Steps

Near Piazza Navona

Near the Pantheon

Near Villa Borghese/Via Veneto

Near Trevi Fountain

Near Termini Station

In the Jewish Ghetto

Near the Coliseum and Forum

In Trastevere

Near Testaccio and Aventine Hills

South of the City Center

Menu Translation

About the Author

Introduction

When my husband and I headed to Italy for the first time more than 20 years ago we were young, in love, and painfully broke. Before we boarded our plane, however, my Italian uncle took me aside. In his endearing accent he said, "Forget eating in ristoranti—they’re too expensive for your budget. Instead, see the real Italy and eat where Italians do. Go to a trattoria."

We took my uncle’s advice and so should you. Chow Italy is dedicated to those honest little eateries and the special dishes for which they’re renowned. Look past the mismatched silverware and plates, the often sparse dining room décor, and discover what Italians have known for generations—family-run trattorie (and their equally inexpensive cousin, the osteria, or inn) offer simple, delicious, regional dishes at inexpensive prices. In these dining jewels, two can feast on many courses, with plenty of wine, for half the cost of a typical ristorante.

The problem with a trattoria is that finding one is like playing a game of hide and seek. The best ones, frequented by locals, are hidden in residential neighborhoods, off the tourist track. We found plenty, however, by following the aroma of garlic down side streets, under laundry lines strung across alleyways, and past televisions blaring soccer games. Looking between a meat market and a fruit stand in a small piazza we’d often find a bright awning with our favorite new word—Trattoria!

The majority of patrons in trattorie are casually dressed families, often with infants and grandparents in tow. Young children inevitably fall asleep in their chairs, while the adults continue to talk, laugh, and sing until closing time. It’s not unusual for the owner, who is probably also the chef, to bring out Sambuca and share the strong, licorice-tasting liquor with his customers at the end of the evening.

Money Matters

Prices on the menu posted outside of each trattoria told us if the establishment was economically feasible for us. Our goal was to keep a three-course meal for two people plus a liter of vino della casa, or house wine, for around €50. (A three course meal means each person has a primi or first course, a secondi or second and either one antipasto or appetizer before the meal or one dessert to split after.) You might spend way less or you may spend a bit more—it all depends on your appetite! Remember, too, that prices in big tourist cities such as Rome may run a bit higher than those in smaller, less visited cities such as Parma.

In every trattoria, you’ll also notice two charges that might be added to your bill, regardless of what you order. However, these charges vary from place to place. Pane e coperto (cover charge) means: If you sit down and we bring bread to your table, we’ll charge you. The cost is usually one or two Euro per person. The second charge, servizio (service charge or tip), runs about 10% but many trattorie omit it. Why? Because most Italians don’t tip as their waiters are paid more than minimum wage and get government health benefits. Furthermore, the service charge is often already added into the price of the food. So, if servizio is