TBP 082 :: Lee Sheftel on Climbing 5.13 into His 70's

FromThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 082 :: Lee Sheftel on Climbing 5.13 into His 70's

FromThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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Length:

72 minutes

Released:

Jul 6, 2017

Format:

Podcast episode

Released:

Jul 6, 2017

Format:

Podcast episode

Titles in the series (100)

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation about training for climbing with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories about climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

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TBP001 - A Talk with Carlo Traversi: Insights for Rock Climbers by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
46 min listen
TBP 013 :: Hans Florine on Speed Climbing The Nose and Training for It: About Hans Florine This is from Wikipedia because I couldn't possibly sum this up any better. Hans Florine has a long and storied history on El Cap, and in particular on The Nose. Here goes: Hans Florine (born June 18,... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
73 min listen
Training Q&A Session #2: This is a recording of our second live Q&A call dedicated to training for climbing. Answering the questions are: Kris Peters - Climbing Trainer Neely Quinn - Nutritionist and 5.13 climber Seth Lytton - Training geek and 5.14 climber Hope... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
33 min listen
TBP 003: Jamie Emerson on Training, Ethics, and Being The Sheriff: I sat down with Jamie Emerson last summer and had a really interesting chat with him. Jamie is, I think, an important voice in the climbing community. As an accomplished and ambitious climber himself, having sent up to V14, he has his finger on the... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
48 min listen
TBP 045 :: Ethan Pringle on Jumbo Love 15b, The Nest V15, and Depression: About Ethan Pringle Ethan Pringle is a 29 year-old professional rock climber who's had immense success in the competition scene as well as on real rock. He made the 2nd ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b) and has done a few V14s and is working on his... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
70 min listen
TBP 002: Paige Claassen on Training, Eating, and Body Weight: The TrainingBeta Podcast by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
32 min listen
TBP 011 :: Dan Mirsky on Staying Strong on the Road, Training for Rifle, and Whether Running Helps Him Send: About Dan Mirsky Dan Mirsky is an understated crusher. I've been watching him gracefully take down rock climbs in Rifle for as long as I've been climbing there. Last year we witnessed his fitness (literally) in The Red when we were next... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
61 min listen
TBP 038 :: Tom Randall on His Nerdy Training Methods: About Tom Randall Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and sport climbs, and he's a professional climbing trainer as well. He and his team at Lattice... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
77 min listen
TBP 004: Angie Payne on V14, Failures, Rivals, Diet, Weight, and Training: I met Angie Payne in 2004 when she first moved to Boulder. I worked at the Spot Bouldering Gym and she lived at the Spot Bouldering Gym. Not really, but she was there an awful lot. She was quiet, shy, sweet, and studious (she studied in the... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
46 min listen
TBP 015 :: Heather Weidner on Trying Hard and Sticking with Projects: It's been FOREVER since I published a podcast episode and I'm really sorry for the inconsistency! My surgery and ensuing weirdness has had me away from working very much at all, but I'm hoping to start putting podcasts up again on a regular... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
64 min listen
TBP 025:: Steve Maisch: About Steve Maisch Steve Maisch is a local SLC strong man and renowned training guru. If you’ve ever run into Steve at the cliff, you know how humble and unassuming he is. Once he pulls onto the wall though, his immense... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
68 min listen
TBP 022: Bill Ramsey on Sending 14b at Age 54: Date: May 27th, 2015 About Bill Ramsey Bill Ramsey is a legend among climbers, having put up classic first ascents in the Red River Gorge years ago such as Omaha Beach (14a), Golden Boy (13b), and many others. He's 55 years old and he... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
70 min listen
TBP 006: A Talk with Kris Hampton about Training, Rapping, 14a, and TrainingBeta: This interview is with Kris Hampton, a climber, trainer, artist, business owner, and all around great guy. I met him last fall at his home crag, the Red River Gorge, when we both had projects in the Motherlode (I was on Snooker and he was on... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
53 min listen
TBP :: 010 Kris Peters on All Things Training, Team of 2, TrainingBeta, and Cardio: Hooray!! I finally did an interview with my favorite climbing trainer, Kris Peters! He's been working on TrainingBeta with us since basically the beginning, so I've had plenty of time to get to know and love this guy. He's kind of intimidating on the... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
61 min listen
TBP 036 :: Steve Bechtel Interview #2: About Steve Bechtel I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel for a second time. Steve is a long-time climber and trainer who knows his stuff when it comes to getting strong, catering to individual training needs,... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
74 min listen
TBP 034 :: Justen Sjong on Improving Your Mental Game: About Justen Sjong Justen Sjong is a prolific climbing coach out of Colorado, who's also had a successful climbing career, having established up to 5.14a big walls with none other than Tommy Caldwell, and crushing 5.14 sport climbs across... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
61 min listen
TBP 007 :: Steve Bechtel on Training, Power Endurance, Running, Weight Loss, and More: Download on iTunes RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel, a long-time climber and trainer who knows his stuff when it comes to getting strong, honing in on individual... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
52 min listen
TBP 027 :: Kevin Jorgeson Talks about The Dawn Wall and Highballs: Date: July 9th, 2015 About Kevin Jorgeson After the Dawn Wall, Kevin Jorgeson needs no introduction really. Even my grandmother knows his name (and I'm not joking about that). Before the Dawn Wall, I knew Kevin for his highball bouldering; I... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
71 min listen
TBP 012 :: Alli Rainey on Training, Cardio, and Body Weight: About Alli Rainey Alli Rainey is a long-time climber and route developer, having put up a ton of routes in Ten Sleep Wyoming and boulder problems in Cody, Wyoming. She's redpointed several 14a's in Ten Sleep and done more than 90 5.13s... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
70 min listen
TBP 009 :: Mark and Mike Anderson on Their Book, J-Star, and How Less Is More: I'm psyched to introduce this podcast with the Anderson brothers, Mark and Mike. We did a longer-than-usual interview this time, partly because there were two of them and mostly because they have a lot of advice to give. For the uninitiated, Mark and... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
80 min listen
TBP 005: Jonathan Siegrist on Sending, Failing, Training, and Dreaming Big: This interview is with one of my really good friends, Jonathan Siegrist, aka J-Star. I met Jonathan about 4 or 5 years ago and for some reason we just clicked and have stayed tight ever since. He's one of my favorite people, and you'll understand why... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
51 min listen
TBP 035 :: Isabelle Faus on Sending V14: About Isabelle Faus Isabelle Faus is a 22 year-old boulderer out of Boulder, CO. (Yes, I know that a lot of my guests are from Boulder, but there are just so many amazing climbers here!) Isabelle climbed her first V14 in South Africa... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
63 min listen
TBP 008 :: Alex Johnson on Training, Hard Female Ascents, and The Swarm: Download on iTunes Direct Download RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss After many months of trying to find a time that worked for both of our crazy schedules, Alex Johnson and I finally sat down and had a conversation about... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
58 min listen
TBP 014 :: Physical Therapist Jared Vagy on Injury Prevention and Treatment: About Dr. Jared Vagy I am so excited to put this podcast out! Holy crap. This is some MUCH NEEDED info for climbers of all kinds, and I really hope you listen to the whole thing. Jared Vagy is a PhD physical therapist who also happens to be a... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
78 min listen
TBP 030 :: Jon Cardwell on How He Climbs Hard Routes and Boulders: Direct Download: LINKDate: August 12th, 2015 (Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.) About Jon Cardwell Jon Cardwell is a 26 year-old Albuquerque native living in Boulder, Colorado, who climbs 5.14d and... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
65 min listen
Free Q&A Webinar-1: Kris Peters & Seth Lytton.mp3: This is a recording of the free Q&A webinar that we hosted on 2-2-15. Chris and Seth answered training questions from anyone who called. Questions are focused on general training and specific questions about the training programs offered on... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
61 min listen
TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training: I was honored that Adam Ondra took time out of his very busy day (he's a full time student and trains for climbing a LOT) to let me pick his brain about climbing and training. I hope you like this interview! About Adam Ondra He doesn't really... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
71 min listen
TBP 029 :: Climbing Trainer Adam Macke on MAT and Weight Training: Date: July 29th, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
68 min listen
TBP 021:: Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight, and Crowdfunding: About Alex Puccio Alex "The Pucc" Puccio is the strongest female American boulderer, and the most accomplished female American bouldering competitor. She's won ABS Nationals 9 times, and has medaled 13 times in Bouldering World Cup events... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
84 min listen
TBP 016 :: Steph Davis on Training for Alpine, Sport Climbing, Free Soloing, FFAs, and Veganism: I got to sit down with the great Steph Davis the other day and chat about her training for climbing, her vast accomplishments, her FFAs, her free soloing exploits, her diet, her wing suit flying, and all kinds of other stuff. About Steph... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
71 min listen

More Episodes from The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups: In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what she learns from watching all of the Climbing World Cups and how she uses those videos to teach her clients about their own climbing. You can passively watch any sport you want, but if you’re... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
85 min listen
TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance: Back in April, I published an episode with Thomas Cunningham all about how he trains efficiently as a busy dad and ER physician to be able to send up to 5.14c projects in only 10-15 days outside climbing per year. You can listen to that episode in the... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
85 min listen
TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster: In this episode, I sat down with Coach Matt Pincus to talk about his infamous “checklist” that he uses when he’s projecting a route (or a boulder – but usually routes). As a coach, often Matt’s job is less about creating strength training... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
72 min listen
TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt: In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The “energy systems” we’re talking about are power endurance, endurance, strength, and... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
99 min listen
TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing: Steep Climbing Workshop May 2nd, 2023 Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 2-hour presentation + Q&A on how to train for steep climbing on the wall and off the wall. She’ll be using a series of videos and other resources to describe some climbing... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
79 min listen
TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3: A couple weeks ago, Sam Elias texted me and said, "Hey. This ER doctor here in Louisville just sent his first 14c... He's SUPER intelligent and really researched about training, nutrition, and personal optimization. I think y'all should have him on... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
86 min listen
TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins: In this interview I talk with professional ice and mixed climber, , about her new book, . In it, she describes the transition she went through from being a full-time pro climber to having twins and balancing her life with her two children as... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
71 min listen
TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger: Climbing Fitness Breakthrough Series Before we get started, Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 4-part series all about how to increase your overall climbing fitness. She will do 4 weekly 90-minute zoom calls starting March 21st all about how to use... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
91 min listen
TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus: This episode is a bit different in that Coach Matt Pincus is the interviewer/coach and I (Neely) am just in it to introduce Matt and his guest, Bridget Roell. Bridget is a long-time climber who was working her first 5.13b when she first reached out to... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
96 min listen
TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training: In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get stronger and avoid injuries. Last year, Tyler saw over 600 patients with finger injuries, and he believes that... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
59 min listen
TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers: This episode is one of the most meaningful episodes I’ve ever done, and I’ll tell you why in a sec. In it, I talked with psychologist Dr. Jennifer Dragonette about DBT, which stands for Dialectical Behavior Therapy, for a whopping hour and a half!... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
100 min listen
TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer: In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients to be better boulderers. They’re both pretty psyched on bouldering themselves, so we also talk about how they train for... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
84 min listen
TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger: In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. Sending 5.12 is the most common goal among her clients, so she has quite a bit of experience with the minutiae... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
71 min listen
TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days: In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags and boulder fields become more crowded, there’s a growing need for us all to be on the same page about who... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
77 min listen
TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger: In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
79 min listen
TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing: David Farkas is a 49-year-old climber who works as the Adult Programming Manager at The Front Climbing Club in Salt Lake City, UT. He’s been climbing since 1991, and found himself in a bit of a slump with his climbing and nutrition when he signed up... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
79 min listen
TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers: In this episode, I talk about the pros and cons of the ketogenic diet and intermittent fasting for climbers. In my sessions with clients I often get questions about these very popular diet tactics, so I wanted to lay out in plain terms what I see... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
30 min listen
TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance: Kevin Roet is a climbing instructor from the UK who’s been teaching workshops on climbing psychology for about 7 years now. He recently wrote a book, , all about the topic, and I wanted to have him on the show to talk about the things he... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
76 min listen
TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing: You may have heard me say that I’ve been doing some mental training coaching with Hazel Findlay this year to help with some fears and mental “blocks.” Well, it’s been so valuable working with her that I wanted to have her on the show to talk... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
83 min listen
TBP 215: How We’ve Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely): In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how our coaching styles, confidence levels, and tactics with clients have changed over the years. Matt and Alex talk about their practices as climbing coaches and I discuss... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
89 min listen
TBP 214: Matt Pincus’s 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers: In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the most common advice he gives to his climbing coaching clients. He finds that he has really similar converations with many of his clients, so over the years he’s come up with 4 sayings that he... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
61 min listen
What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance: In this episode, I talk all about what to eat at the crag and the couple days before going to the crag so that you can have all-day energy and climb hard. I know it’s tempting to just not eat all day at the crag so you can feel “light” and climb... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
29 min listen
TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training: In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in climbing. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and wants us all to know that there are... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
55 min listen
TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing: In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the different kinds of “endurance” in climbing, and how to train each of them. We go over the anaerobic lactic system (power endurance), the aerobic system (long-form endurance), and the anaerobic... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
78 min listen
TBP 210 :: Crag Dog Training with Jenna Teti: This episode is a LITTLE bit different than all my others in that we’re going to be talking about training, but for a different species: dogs! So many climbers have dogs, and because climbing has gotten so popular in the past couple decades, there... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
92 min listen
TBP 209: Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition: New Nutrition and Training Program: Reach Coach Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn are hosting an integrated climbing training and nutrition program starting on August 8th, 2022 for 4 weeks! If you want to up your game in nutrition and in climbing training... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
43 min listen
TBP 208 :: Alex and Neely's Biggest Nutrition and Training Mistakes: Free Masterclass on the 5 Most Common Mistakes in Training and Climbing Next Tuesday we’re doing a free, live masterclass on zoom to talk about the 5 most common training and nutrition mistakes climbers make and how to avoid them.... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
69 min listen
TBP 207 :: Allison Vest on Transitioning from Comp Climbing to Rock Climbing: Allison Vest is a 27-year-old climber who lives in Salt Lake City. She’s originally from Minnesota and moved to Canada when she was 7, where she fell in love with climbing. She had a lot of success competing as a Canadian, winning the Canadian... by The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
85 min listen

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TBP 082 :: Lee Sheftel on Climbing 5.13 into His 70's

TBP 082 :: Lee Sheftel on Climbing 5.13 into His 70's

Titles in the series (100)

More Episodes from The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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