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Formulas, Ingredients and Production of Cosmetics: Technology of Skin- and Hair-Care Products in Japan
Formulas, Ingredients and Production of Cosmetics: Technology of Skin- and Hair-Care Products in Japan
Formulas, Ingredients and Production of Cosmetics: Technology of Skin- and Hair-Care Products in Japan
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Formulas, Ingredients and Production of Cosmetics: Technology of Skin- and Hair-Care Products in Japan

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Today, young cosmetics researchers who have completed their graduate studies and have entered a cosmetics company are put through several years of training before they become qualified to design cosmetics formulations themselves. They are trained so that they can design formulas not by a process of logic but by heart, like craftsmen, chefs, or carpenters. This kind of training seems a terrible waste of labor and time. To address this issue and allow young scientists to design novel cosmetics formulations, effectively bringing greater diversity of innovation to the industry, this book provides a key set of skills and the knowledge necessary for such pursuits. The volume provides the comprehensive knowledge and instruction necessary for researchers to design and create cosmetics products. The book’s chapters cover a comprehensive list of topics, which include, among others, the basics of cosmetics, such as the raw materials of cosmetics and their application; practical techniques and technologies for designing and manufacturing cosmetics, as well as theoretical knowledge; emulsification; sensory evaluations of cosmetic ingredients; and how to create products such as soap-based cleansers, shampoos, conditioners, creams, and others. The potential for innovation is great in Japan’s cosmetics industry. This book expresses the hope that the high level of dedicated research continues and proliferates, especially among those who are innovators at heart.
LanguageEnglish
PublisherSpringer
Release dateOct 2, 2012
ISBN9784431540618
Formulas, Ingredients and Production of Cosmetics: Technology of Skin- and Hair-Care Products in Japan

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  • Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
    4/5
    The Eustace Diamonds By Anthony Trollope Sally ApollonOverall Score: 6.5 out of 10Literary StyleFormal, literary style, in keeping with 1873—the year in which it was initially published. No tricks, but an intimate approach to the reader, the author sometimes addresses us directly, which I found a little unnecessary. I think if I take issue with the style at all it was the degree to which the author takes his time. He does not know anything of the economies of time in the modern world! But then if I were Lucy Morris, passing six months at Lady Lithlingow’s I would be very appreciative of this, likewise if I were one of the Fawn girls, at Fawn Court waiting for something, ANYTHING to happen, I would love a book like this to sink my teeth into. Truthfully, I often wanted to skip over pages or chapters, but found myself unable to because I was afraid I’d miss something. Themes HONESTY: this is central to the book and to each character. The degree to which they are honest with themselves and those around them and the effect it has upon their lives. I do think Trollope very cleverly demonstrates that lies beget lies and truthfulness ultimately is it’s own reward. Lucy and Lizzie are polar opposites to demonstrate this, with Frank being the (questionable) prize. Lady Lithlingow is miserable, but honest and Lucy ends up liking her. Lady Fawn is compassionate & honest and although she is made to look like a fool at times, she is in the end a friend that anyone would appreciate. Mrs Carbuncle is delusional and false with all those around her & reaps the rewards of that. The LAW is almost another character in the book…interesting how slippery it is at times and how in the end Lizzie evades the worst, by finding legal ways around her predicament.LOVE: Not really much in evidence with the exception of Lucy—she’s really the only one who demonstrated faithful & true passionate love and that you could imagine becoming a good spouse. Maternal love was well demonstrated by Lady Fawn. None of the men in the book seem to know the meaning of love, with the exception of Frank—and it seems it curiously sneaked up on him in the penultimate chapter—he sort of lost his mind for the ENTIRE BOOK, courtesy of Lizzie.MARRIAGE: As was so important in those days “a good marriage” was the be-all and end all of a young lady’s social forays. The various marriages that woulda-coulda-shoulda been kept you wondering. The many suitors that Lizzie went through made my head spin, especially towards the end. I found it intriguing that Frank was the one that she really liked most of all, but you could never have convinced yourself that she loved him as she tossed him too easily aside when she realized that he was “JUST NOT THAT INTO YOU”. Curious too that she accepted the Jew-Preacher, Mr Emilius, when he was described as so vile, perhaps she saw in him someone not unlike herself and could respect that. She did not resent him his scheming and chose to believe his lies. I could almost imagine them scheming together on how to scam people. I guess he was the last reasonable option open to her that she could tell.MONEY: This book principally deals with people who do not have enough for the life that they lead—hence are constantly trying to figure out how to get by, whether by creditors or sponging off others, or simply being frugal. Interesting insights. This was Lizzie’s upbringing and legacy, from her spendthrift father—you could say he scarred her into immediately seeking a financially sound marriage by DYING & leaving her young, penniless and almost friendless.Mrs. Carbuncle’s wheeling & dealing over the wedding presents was astounding in it’s audacity—really quite pitiful.Curious that the one person who truly needs money—Lucy, but sees the futility of it is the only one to adamantly refuse an unearned generous gift from the typically mean Lady Lithlingow. And she is vindicated; even a new frock would have made no difference to how Frank loved her in the end!SOCIETY: How judgmental and fickle is the society then—but can we say it is any less so now? And yet realizing how harsh an audience, the people to whom it matters bow to social pressure over & over again. Lizzie stands alone in her defiance, first secretly then openly—but resultingly she is no longer welcome in London society and knows it. In the chapter: “Lord George gives his reasons”, Trollope reviews why Lizzie is rejected. CharacterizationLIZZIE EUSTACE: She would probably be interesting company, but you would quickly realize she’s not to be trusted. It took Frank a long time to realize this. Others, not quite so long. She’s referred to as “clever” a lot, but I’m not sure it was so. Quick-witted perhaps, but self-defeating in the end. If she had failed to marry Sir Eustace she should have been on the stage, as acting was her real talent. Narcissistic. FRANK GREYSTOKE: He was often referred to as a hero, which, I suppose in the end he did turn out to be. But he was delightfully fallible and particularly susceptible to Lizzie’s wiles. Lucky for him, Lucy would still have him in the end…how could she not? With no other prospects—he was the hero she needed.LUCY MORRIS: Dull—sort of a Jane Eyre. I wish that she had a little more spunk—I would have liked her better if she’d taken a few adventurous walks out of LL’s house, but at least she spoke her truth to Lizzie and didn’t back down.LORD FAWN: Does anyone see him as anything other that a WUSS???MRS CARBUNCLE: Devious & deluded.LUCINDA: Mentally ill—probably masochist, at the very least clinically depressed. Interesting diversion though—I did wonder if she spent the rest of her life in a lunatic asylum—or if she was abused as a child.SIR GRIFFIN: Headcase—probably a sadist. Maybe even borderline. Most certainly Grandiose.LORD GEORGE DE BRUCE CARRUTHERS: Bizarre red herring. Truth teller.MR BENJAMIN: The mastermind behind the robberies! Along with Smiley & whats-is-face. Not forgetting Patience CRABSTICK (what kind of a name is that Trollope????) THE POLICE: bunch of twits—but they did plod on with it & eventually see an end to it.THE CREW AT MATCHING (PALLISERS?): extremely dull—almost skipped this altogether—remind me not to read another Pallisers novel if this is who it’s all about. SUMMARY:I did enjoy the book, honestly I did, although I became frustrated with the sheer volume of extra stuffing in it and the extent to which I felt I had to wade through to get to the point of the plot. It took me FOREVER—about 2 months or more, waaay too long for a book. Not nearly rewarding enough for the effort expended. I did enjoy Lizzie & watching her unravel—I almost thought she would be utterly triumphant and return to London on the arm of a handsome and loaded and titled Peer of the Realm, but that would not have been a judicious ending, I suppose. I particularly enjoyed the scenes of hunting in Scotland—funny how Frank gets someone else’s horse. Made me think how I’d LOVE to be galloping across the moors & hedges in Scotland. I actually had a pang of sadness for MacNulty in the end and often felt that Lizzie’s son must be a poor dejected little thing.
  • Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
    5/5
    Lizzie Eustace is one of the great anti-heroines in literature. At the end, one character summarizes this book thus: She told a lot of lies and lost some diamonds.True, true . . . but there is so much more. I listened to Timothy West read this (audible.com) and then would read some on my own. Timothy West is an incredible reader--some parts probably are boring but his voice just smoothly pulls you through those points. So many portions of the book are fantastic. Trollope somehow makes us see through Lizzie's lying, greedy, ridiculous nature and still like her, like her in spite of the fact that she prefers lies to truth, thinks of poetry as jewelry, etc. etc. I was sad to finish this book. I recently read Trollope's THE WAY WE LIVE NOW. That was also great, but it dwindled away at the end. This one stays strong to the last page. A great Victorian novel.
  • Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
    5/5
    I first listen to Anthony West's sublime narration while climbing the Alps on a StarTech elliptical, then return home suffused to read what I just heard -- though Lizzy Eustace is but second-hand Becky Sharp, my weakness for liars has no parameters...
  • Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
    4/5
    Lizzie Eustace had to marry. So she went to work, captivated a wealthy man, and became Lady Eustace. Lord Eustace died, leaving Lizzie a house tenancy for life and everything to his son. He also left a diamond necklace. Was it left to Lizzie specifically, or was it left to his son, to give his bride one day? Lizzie is sure it was left to her, and she refuses to give it back.That is the central plot of this Victorian novel by Anthony Trollope. It's the third in the Palliser series, but it is not necessary to read them in order to enjoy this one. Despite its age, I had no trouble reading and enjoying this book. Yes, Trollope does moralize a bit in places and some of the paragraphs are dauntingly large and wordy. But the characters are still fresh and very entertaining. I was only a few pages into the book when I thought, "Oh, this is going to be fun!" A beautiful, selfish, spoiled heroine and a meaty plot - what more could I want? I stayed up until 1:30 in the morning to finish last night, but had to go to bed and read the last few pages this morning. Definitely it did take longer than my usual read, since it took me about 3 days to read it. But it was worth it. The setting was well done and very interesting.As always, if you want to read it and be surprised, DO NOT read the preface first. Just read the back of the book and jump in.
  • Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
    4/5
    The characters in this book are not nearly as much pleasure to read about as those in Phineas Finn. And it isn't because Trollope is misogynist. He gives the main character her due as a complicated, worthy anti-hero. But this book really frustrated me because it felt like something that was written in order to be paid by the word. There were many many redundancies and repetitions. The plot moved forward by tiny fractions of the inch. Finally at the end, when the pacing picked up, it was quite marvelous. But getting there was a plod.
  • Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
    4/5
    Young Lizzie Greystock has a taste for diamonds and other precious stones. Her brief marriage to Sir Florian Eustace leaves her with a title, an infant heir, and a diamond necklace valued at 10,000 pounds. The Eustace family lawyer, Mr. Camperdown, insists that the diamonds are part of the Eustace estate and must be returned. Lizzie claims that her husband gave the diamonds to her with no strings attached. She enlists her young lawyer cousin, Frank Greystock, to help her fend off Mr. Camperdown. The pretty young widow has a lifetime settlement from her late husband's estate. It's not an enormous amount of money, but it's enough to attract suitors like Lord Fawn and the somewhat disreputable Lord George de Bruce Carruthers. It may even be enough to tempt cousin Frank away from his beloved but penniless Lucy Morris. Trollope lets readers in on a secret that Lizzie's suitors only suspect. Lizzie is a shameless liar.This will never be among my favorite Trollope novels. Unlike in some of his earlier novels, there is little humor to lighten the tone. Lizzie brings out the worst in her companions. In contrast, Lucy Morris brings out the best in others. There just isn't enough of Lucy in the novel. The first half of the novel hinges primarily on inheritance law that can no longer be assumed to be common knowledge. Things become much more interesting in the second half of the novel after a theft occurs.I've always maintained that there are worse things than being single. The subplot of Lucinda Roanoke and her engagement to Sir Griffin Tewett could be Exhibit A for this argument. With money running out, Lucinda is forced to accept the first man who asks her to marry him, even though she finds him repulsive.Even the friendships in the book are based on money. Although the Fawns and Lucy genuinely like each other, Lucy is still an employee in their household. Lizzie's friendship with Mrs. Carbuncle is measured out in pounds and shillings. I'm reminded of the old saying “money can't buy happiness”. If that's the point Trollope intended to make with this novel, he succeeded.
  • Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
    4/5
    I reread The Eustace Diamonds for the first time in about a dozen years last week. I can't give it five stars because of the casual anti-Semitism in it, which is just plain disgusting to the modern reader. That said, otherwise it is a really fun read.While the book is part of Trollope's Palliser series of novels, the central characters in the series play only minor roles in this book, so it can easily be read as a standalone novel. The main character is Lizzie Greylock Eustace, and what a character she is! Lizzie is fair of face and black of heart. Lizzie is a liar--and she's one of those liars who tells her lies so well that she begins to believe them herself. She's beautiful and she uses her beauty to manipulate other people--usually successfully. Even people who know that Lizzie's stories can't be true fall under her spell. Lizzie marries a very wealthy man. He dies shortly after they wed. After his death, Lizzie has in her possession a beautiful diamond necklace, which she claims her deceased husband gave her. The Eustace family lawyer is convinced that the necklace is an heirloom, i.e., family property which must be handed down from generation to generation and which therefore can never become Lizzie's personal property. He therefore attempts to regain custody of the diamonds. Lizzie refuses to surrender them and insists that her husband gave them to her as a giftAfraid that the lawyer will have the necklace seized if she leaves it at home, Lizzie carries it with her in a special strong box. The box is stolen. Was it really stolen? Or did Lizzie arrange the theft so she can keep the necklace?
  • Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
    4/5
    The Eustace Diamonds, one of Trollope's finest and yet cruelest works, plays between the conventions of domestic fiction and picaresque. Lizzie Eustace is an opportunistic heroine in the tradition of Becky Sharpe, using her beauty and charm to secure title and fortune for herself. Her struggle to hold on to the fabled Eustace diamonds in the face of severe opposition forms the major conflict of the book, but Trollope also turns his attention, as he has so successfully elsewhere, to the impossibilities—or at least extreme difficulties—of marriage in Victorian England. Love is no guarantee of marriage, and neither is a promise, but the novel deals sensitively with the difficulties of women as well as men in facing the rigors of the marriage market.Trollope is a great master of the subplot, and three separate plots emerge, intertwining neatly, each holding interest and enriching the novel's exploration of the depths to which love, encumbered by finance, can sink.While some find the narrator's treatment of Lizzie herself overly harsh, the even-handedness elsewhere is a pleasure as characters behave well, behave badly, and are characterized with exquisite complexity. And through it all, Lizzie emerges as one of the great Victorian heroines: beautiful, unscrupulous, and fiercely protective of herself and what she has managed to secure.Though the novel is harsh and occasionally bleak, there is hope to be found as a leaven for this searing critique.
  • Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
    5/5
    Lizzie Eustace marries a dying man for his money and then schemes to keep control of a diamond necklace which is rightfully a family piece, rather than her personal property. The necklace is stolen and Lizzie lies and schemes away. The third in the Palliser/political series, there is very little politics (although what little there is includes attempts to introduce decimal currency) and not much of the Pallisers either. Lizzie is a wonderful baddie and I am giving this five stars despite a) the obligatory hunting chapters, b) plenty of anti-semitism and c) the fact that I think Lucy should have told Frank where to go.
  • Rating: 3 out of 5 stars
    3/5
    This is the third Palliser novel, but not one of Trollope's best. It was written by published installments, and sorely needs a good edit - there are long patches that could be removed and improve the overall result. This book is more story-based than other novels, and he does a good job of keeping interest in the outcome of the anti-heroine and her diamonds. Characterisation is, as expected of Trollope,quite wonderful. Lady Eustace and her cronies are delightfully seedy and disreputable, but not overdone - they remain very believable. So, not the best book, but even a bad Trollope is a good book. Read on nook, August 2010.
  • Rating: 3 out of 5 stars
    3/5
    Fares better when the entire series is read consecutively. Trollope is a straight-forward storyteller who treats his readers well.
  • Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
    4/5
    I continued to enjoy Trollope's Palliser novels in August with the delightfully devious Lizzie Eustace, who insists that her late husband gave her as her own property the Eustace family diamonds, so that they are not a part of his estate. Her assertion creates all sorts of problems, including the fact that her fiancé finds her assertions distasteful and dishonorable enough that he no longer feels able to honor his pledge. I mostly enjoyed this, although I found it went on rather a bit long about some things. I did specifically enjoy learning the arcane bits of English common law about what does and what does not constitute an "heirloom" (the Crown jewels--possibly yes; the Eustace diamonds--definitely no), and what a widow can claim as her "paraphernalia" after the death of her husband. On to Phineas Redux4 stars
  • Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
    5/5
    Trollope continues, in this third installment of his Palliser series, to poke fun at the aristocracy. It is really more than poking fun, but the writing makes one laugh while also clearly identifying the vanities, hypocrisies, and various other frailties of theEnglish upper class in the mid 1800s. Lady Eustace, the melodramatic, manipulative, narcissistic widow will stop at nothing to hold onto her beloved diamond necklace, while desperately seeking a new spouse in the poetic incarnation of a corsair. In the course of pursuing her nefarious goals, she lies, cheats, double-crosses, perjures, and uses everyone in her path. I won't tell you what happens to the necklace or her love life, because that would spoil half the fun. I look forward to the next volume and what antics will occur there!
  • Rating: 3 out of 5 stars
    3/5
    This book had an entertaining plot, but it seemed to bog down in so many side plots that it nearly lost my interest at several points. Clearly, the side plots are meant to enrich and emphasize the main themes of the book, but I like a plot that moves a little more quickly. And some of the characters, particularly the "good" girl, Lucy Morris, seemed flat.
  • Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
    5/5
    2011, Blackstone Audiobooks, Read by Simon Vance Oh, Lizzie Eustace, what a piece of work you are! Described in turn by relatives and acquaintances as “cunning, obstinate, greedy, false, heartless, cruel, ignorant, ungrateful, and vile …” – you get the picture – Lizzie is the wiliest of Trollope’s female creations. Wily enough, in fact, to have attracted the attention of the enormously wealthy Sir Florian Eustace and to have induced him to marry her. Alas, Sir Florian lived only a few months into his marriage, leaving Lizzie an annual income of £4,000 and a Scotch property, Portray Castle. He left her a diamond necklace, too, valued at a staggering £10,000, which Lizzie claims was a gift. But Mr. Camperdown, the Eustace family lawyer, is adamant that “the Eustace diamonds” are a heirloom and cannot be thus gifted. Lizzie’s refusal to part with the jewels causes Mr. Camperdown to vow to pursue the “greedy blood-sucking harpie” to the full extent of the law. And it’s game on!“She knew well enough that she was endeavouring to steal the Eustace diamonds; but she did not in the least know what power there might be in the law to prevent, or to punish her for the intended theft. She knew well that the thing was not really her own; but there were, as she thought, so many points in her favour, that she felt it to be a cruelty that any one should grudge her the plunder … She would break her heart should she abandon her prey and afterwards find that Mr. Camperdown would have been wholly powerless against her had she held on to it.” (Ch 6)Finding neither widowhood nor idleness to her taste, Lizzie begins to search for a new husband. Amongst her prospective victims: Frank Greystock, a cousin and a handsome, though broke, barrister; Lord Fawn, a diplomatic undersecretary, who according to Greystock, is an “empty, stiff-necked, self-sufficient prig” (Ch 16); and finally Lord George de Bruce Carruthers, a guest of Lizze’s at Portray Castle, whom she believes might well be the “Corsair of her Byronic dreams.” But as Lizze becomes further embroiled in legal troubles, the gentlemen may well have cause to reconsider their options.The plot thickens yet further when the diamonds are stolen not once, but twice! First, on a return trip from Portray to London, Lizzie’s hotel room at Carlisle is broken into and the safe in which she keeps the diamonds is stolen. That the diamonds were not in the safe, Lizzie neglects to report to the police. Lord George is suspected of being in league with the thieves, and the gossip is rife – reaching even Lady Glencora (to my utter delight!) and the Duke of Omniem. Shortly thereafter, there is a robbery at Lizzie’s London home. But how can the jewels be reported stolen from London when they were stolen from Carlisle? Oh, the woe! “Lizzie, in defending herself to herself, felt that, though cruel magistrates and hard-hearted lawyers and pig-headed jurymen might call her little fault by the name of perjury, it could not be real, wicked perjury, because the diamonds had been her own. She had defrauded nobody,—had wished to defraud nobody,—if only the people would have left her alone. It had suited her to give—an incorrect version of facts, because people had troubled themselves about her affairs; and now all this had come upon her!” (Ch 71)The Palliser novels just keep getting better! As always, I must compliment the sublime Simon Vance for brining Trollope’s best to life. Highly recommended!
  • Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
    4/5
    Fanny Price meets Becky Sharp in a straight fight, no holds barred. Plus a detective story à la Wilkie Collins, a cameo appearance by Lady Glencora Palliser, an attempt to introduce decimal currency a hundred years too soon, and a couple of racy Surteesian hunting sequences—plenty of fun for all. The story itself isn't as interesting as the detailing of the characters and dialogue (we have a pretty good idea how it's all going to turn out), but it's still good fun. Lizzie Eustace, the Becky-character, is especially nicely done: utterly amoral, a skilled liar, but just a fraction short of being clever enough to get everything she wants. The political background this time isn't much (the decimal-currency saga is a very minor distraction), but the story of the diamonds does run along on the fringe of one of the hot topics of the time, the extent to which married women could own property in their own right. Very possibly this is the only place in English literature where the reader needs to understand the legal definition of "paraphernalia".
  • Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
    4/5
    A very enjoyable novel well-read by Simon Vance.
  • Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
    4/5
    Anthony Trollope’s books are usually pretty light hearted marriage plots where situations like class or annual income interfere with true love. But The Eustace Diamonds was different in a refreshing way. In addition to the typical conundrum of two people without any income falling in love, there is the added intrigue of politics and … gasp, a stolen diamond necklace. And not just any necklace, but a family heirloom valued at 10,000 pounds. The mystery of the stolen necklace definitely added a bit of spice to the story, making it much more of page turner than the typical Victorian novel. As part of Trollope’s Palliser series, there are some familiar characters from earlier books, such as Lady Glencora and Madame Max Goesler, but they are very minor characters in this story. Although it was more of a side plot to the overall novel, I really enjoyed the conflict in Parliament over the change from the old Shilling money system to the current use of decimal system. So interesting to see the similarities of getting a bill passed in England and the United States – lots of back room deals as well as the necessity of a small fortune to win an election. Enjoyable book – definitely one of my favorite Trollope’s! Extra bonus – beautifully narrated by the ever wonderful Simon Vance.
  • Rating: 3 out of 5 stars
    3/5
    In The Eustace Diamonds, Anthony Trollope explores the dark side of marriage in the Victorian era. Our heroine, Lizzie Eustace, is a very unlikeable young widow who, thanks to her husband's fortune, has a roof over her head and a steady income until her son comes of age and inherits everything. She is also in possession of a diamond necklace, which she insists was a gift from her husband but by law is not rightfully hers. A lawsuit is brought against her concerning the necklace, and Lizzie pouts and stamps her feet and refuses to deal with it. Her fiance, Lord Fawn, begins to regret his proposal. Meanwhile, Lizzie's cousin Frank Greystock has fallen in love with Lucy Morris, who works as a governess in the Fawn family and is Lizzie's complete opposite: kind, honest, and poor. Frank is a lawyer and Member of Parliament, but in the eyes of his family "needs" to marry money. In that respect, Lizzie would be a much better match and while Frank finds her attractive, he knows Lucy is the better person. When Lizzie's necklace is stolen, the pace picks up and Lizzie becomes further entrenched in selfish deceit.I liked this book less than the earlier Palliser and Barchester novels. It was darker and lacked the satire Trollope is known for. The characters were unlikeable or boring, and familiar faces from previous books were not sufficiently present to compensate. There was also a strong anti-semitic thread involving jewelers, money-lenders, and a clergyman and while I understand the views expressed were typical of that time period, it made for unpleasant reading. But at least now I can say I'm halfway through the Palliser novels, and look forward to the next one.
  • Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
    4/5
    I found this 3rd novel of the Palliser series the most enjoyable book so far. It reminded me of Vanity Fair in some ways, such as not really having a heroine. Lizzie Eustace is not as fun as Becky Sharp, because she isn't as clever - in fact, quite stupid in many ways. Lucy Morris is almost as annoying as Amelia & only saved by being such a minor character.

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Formulas, Ingredients and Production of Cosmetics - Hiroshi Iwata

Part 1

Ingredients and Productions of Cosmetics

Hiroshi Iwata and Kunio ShimadaFormulas, Ingredients and Production of Cosmetics2013Technology of Skin- and Hair-Care Products in Japan10.1007/978-4-431-54061-8_1© Springer Japan 2013

1. Developing the Formulations of Cosmetics

Hiroshi Iwata¹  and Kunio Shimada²  

(1)

ERICA Co., Ltd., Saitama, Japan

(2)

NOF Corporation, Tokyo, Japan

Kunio Shimada

Email: kunio_shimada@nof.co.jp

1.1 Classification and Categories of Cosmetics

1.1.1 Parts of the Body

1.1.2 Efficacies and Effects

1.1.3 Purpose of Use

1.1.4 Method of Use

1.1.5 Properties and Product Forms

1.2 Constituents of Cosmetics

1.2.1 Ingredients for Giving the Product Form

1.2.2 Ingredients for Stabilizing the Products

1.2.3 Ingredients for Giving Efficacies, Effects, and Concepts

1.2.4 Ingredients Acting on the Senses of Users

1.3 Categories of Cosmetics and Product Forms

1.3.1 Toilet Soaps and Cleansers

1.3.2 Shampoos

1.3.3 Conditioners

1.3.4 Creams

1.3.5 Leave-on Hair Care Products

1.3.6 Cosmetics Mainly Consisting of Oil

1.3.7 Facial Toner

1.4 Points to Note for Using Ingredients in Cosmetics

Standards for Cosmetics

Abstract

Cosmetics, which are daily applied on a part or all parts of the human body, require special knowledge and care for designing formulations. Ingredients should be combined so as to achieve the aimed efficacies and effects and be appropriate for the purpose, body part on which the product is to be applied, and method of use. This chapter also exemplifies the ingredients used for toilet soaps, cleansers, shampoos, rinse-off hair conditioners, leave-on hair care products, creams, oily cosmetics that do not contain water, and facial toner. All cosmetic products need to be temperature resistant and stable over a long period of time. Use of preservatives, pH regulators, chelating agents, and antioxidants should be carefully investigated. Stability must also be checked for changes in color, smell, and viscosity. Antiseptic effects must last long and secondary pollution after opening the pack also needs to be prevented.

Keywords

Efficacies and effectsIngredientsLimitations on inclusion of ingredientsProhibited ingredients

1.1 Classification and Categories of Cosmetics

Cosmetics are daily applied on a part or all parts of the human body. There are diverse products, whose properties and forms are designed based on the efficacy and effects, the body part on which they are applied, and the purpose and method of use. According to the regulations on the manufacturing and sales of cosmetics in Japan, cosmetics are classified into the categories as shown in Table 1.1. This chapter describes the basic concepts and knowledge of designing cosmetics formulations.

Table 1.1

Categories of cosmetics

a Of cleansers, facial cleansers are those for mainly cleansing the face

b Cosmetic oils are those applied on the skin and do not include oils used on hair, such as camellia oil

1.1.1 Parts of the Body

Cosmetics are applied on the skin, hair, scalp, nails, lips, teeth, and eyelashes including the oral cavity and around the eyes. Recent trends of cosmetics development focus on products to be applied on body parts on which cosmetics were rarely used and those that have new values. Cosmetics developments in new fields require thorough understanding and investigation of the body part on which the cosmetics is to be applied, the materials used and formulations.

1.1.2 Efficacies and Effects

The Pharmaceutical Affairs Law prescribes the range of cosmetics efficacy as shown in Table 1.2 (Pharmaceutical and Medical Safety Director Notification No. 1339, December 28, 2000).

Table 1.2

Range of cosmetics efficacy

Permitted efficacy expressions of cosmetics, which do not need approval by the Pharmaceutical Affairs Law

(Pharmaceutical and Medical Safety Director Notification No. 1339, December 28, 2000)

No other efficacy or effect can be advertised for cosmetics. Cosmetics must not cure or be effective against symptoms and must be mild. Efficacy expressions permitted to cosmetics include keeps something, prevents something, gives something, and repairs something.

1.1.3 Purpose of Use

Users use cosmetics to cleanse, beautify, change the appearance, and protect the bodies and make them attractive. It should be noted that the purposes of use may differ from the efficacy expressions under the Pharmaceutical Affairs Law.

1.1.4 Method of Use

Cosmetics are applied on a part or all parts of the body and are either left on, wiped off, or rinsed off. Most cosmetics are either rinsed off (rinse-off cosmetics) or left on (leave-on cosmetics); and the difference determines the safety level required to the products and the ingredients used. It should also be noted that there are restrictions on components and the concentrations depending on the part of the body on which the cosmetics is to be applied. See the Appendices of the Japanese Standards for Cosmetics of Japan at the end of this chapter.

1.1.5 Properties and Product Forms

The properties and forms of cosmetics are decided based on the body part on which the product is to be used and whether is it to be rinsed off, wiped off, or left on, and so that users feel easy to use. Marketing aspects, such as containers and proposed lifestyles, may also be reflected in the properties and product forms.

Main product forms include liquids, viscous liquids, milky lotions, creams, gels, waxes, solids, powders, and aerosols.

1.2 Constituents of Cosmetics

Constituents of cosmetics include water, oils, silicones, surfactants, polymers, polyhydric alcohols, saccharides, organic solvents, acid and alkali salts, inorganic and organic powders, pigment colors, amino acids, proteins, plant extracts, vitamins, ultraviolet absorbers, chelating agents, preservatives, antioxidants, oxidizing and reducing agents, and aromatic essential oils.

It is convenient to classify the constituents into those that give the product form, stabilize the product, have efficacy and effects, and act on the senses of users. Ingredients of cosmetics are combined so as to achieve the aimed efficacies and effects and be appropriate for the purpose, body part on which the product is to be applied, and method of use. The ingredients are outlined below and described in detail in Chap. 2.

1.2.1 Ingredients for Giving the Product Form

The constituents that give a product its form are water, oils, surfactants, silicone, polyhydric alcohols, polymers, and powders. They constitute the major part of a cosmetic product, determine its form, and affect the feel of use (Table 1.3).

Table 1.3

Ingredients for giving product forms

1.2.2 Ingredients for Stabilizing the Products

Cosmetics contain ingredients for stabilizing the product and preventing deterioration. They are essential because cosmetics are used over a long period of time after opening the packet and have risks of degeneration and deterioration. Because cosmetics are applied on delicate parts of the body, such as the skin, they are required to be highly stable. The stabilizers are classified into antimicrobial agents, pH control chemicals, antioxidants, and chelating agents.

1.2.3 Ingredients for Giving Efficacies, Effects, and Concepts

Cosmetics are not allowed to be advertised for efficacy or effect, but ingredients that give efficacy and effects can be added. Such ingredients are also essential for ­presenting the concepts and purposes of the product. Care should be taken that expressions are strictly within the permitted Range of cosmetics efficacy.

Each cosmetics manufacturer uses original combinations of ingredients that give efficacy, effects, and concepts. Manufacturers also use original components and advertise the use to attract users. The ingredients can be broadly classified into plant extracts and herbal medicine components, microbial-derived ingredients, proteins and amino acids, ceramides, and vitamins.

1.2.4 Ingredients Acting on the Senses of Users

Besides the major ingredients listed above, most cosmetics contain coloring and scenting agents to act on the senses of users. Coloring agents are used in hair dyes and also to give colors to cosmetics products. Only the latter is described in this book.

1.3 Categories of Cosmetics and Product Forms

The ingredients of cosmetics are combined so as to give the aimed product form, which depend on the category of cosmetics (shampoos, conditioners, creams, facial toner, body shampoo, lipsticks, foundations, etc.), and to match the purpose of the product. The ingredients used are exemplified below separately for toilet soaps, cleansers, shampoos, rinse-off hair conditioners, leave-on hair care products, creams, oily cosmetics that do not contain water, and facial toner.

1.3.1 Toilet Soaps and Cleansers

Toilet soaps and cleansers are for removing filth from the skin. There are toilet soaps, which are solid, and body shampoos and facial cleansers, which are either cream or liquid. Fatty acid salts are the most widely used component. Some products contain anionic or amphoteric surfactants as the cleansing component, in most cases together with fatty acid salts. Glycols such as glycerin are used as moisturizer. Higher alcohols and nonionic surfactants are combined to make the product creamy. Polymers are used to increase viscosity (Table 1.4).

Table 1.4

Basic formulations of soaps and cleansers

1.3.2 Shampoos

Shampoos are for cleansing the scalp and hair. Anionic surfactants are used as the major cleansing agent, and amphoteric surfactants are also combined as the second cleansing agent. Nonionic surfactants such as alkanol amides stabilize foams and increase viscosity. Cationic polymers increase viscosity and improve the feel of use. These four main constituents determine the product form and the feel of use. Silicones are also widely used to improve the touch (Table 1.5).

Table 1.5

Basic formulations of shampoos (and body soaps)

1.3.3 Conditioners

Conditioners are applied after shampooing hair and are also called hair treatment, hair pack, and hair rinse depending on the contents of proteins, amino acids, and other effective components for repairing hair damage. The main purpose of conditioners is to improve the touch of hair and repair damage. Cationic surfactant of quaternary ammonium salt is always added to emulsify the product and improve the touch. Higher alcohols and all kinds and natural oils and fats can also be added to make the product creamy and improve the feel of use. Silicone is indispensable for giving a smooth touch to the hair. The most common form of conditioners is creams of various degrees of viscosity (Table 1.6).

Table 1.6

Basic formulations of conditioners

1.3.4 Creams

Creams are for caring the skin of the face, hands, and other parts of the body. Product forms may be creams, milky lotions and gels. The purposes are diverse and include repairing the skin from damage, moisturizing the skin, whitening the skin and blotches, and protecting the skin from ultraviolet rays. The oily components, which give the efficacy and determine the feel of use, may be carbohydrates, esters, and higher alcohols. Nonionic surfactant and fatty acids are mainly used to emulsify the oily components. Polymers are added to stabilize the product form. Polyhydric alcohols are for moisturizing, and alkalis are combined to neutralize fatty acids (Table 1.7).

Table 1.7

Basic formulations of creams

1.3.5 Leave-on Hair Care Products

There are hair care products of diverse purposes, such as for caring hair, improving the texture and styling. Product forms are also diverse and range from liquids to solids. There are hair mists, hair creams, waxes, styling agents, and hair oils. Constituents vary depending on purpose and product form and can be all kinds of surfactants, oil, polymer, and glycol.

Hair mists mainly consist of cationic surfactants and glycols. Hair creams contain oils, silicone, fatty acids (as emulsifier), and either anionic or cationic surfactants. Hair mists and creams also contain nonionic surfactants for emulsification. Hair waxes contain wax, micro crystalline waxes, fatty acids, nonionic surfactants, and glycols. Polymers are added to achieve hair setting and styling performances. Hair styling agents are gels or liquids that contain polymers. Hair oils are either silicones plus a small amount of plant oils or plant oils plus hydrocarbons (Table 1.8).

Table 1.8

Basic formulations of leave-on hair care products

1.3.6 Cosmetics Mainly Consisting of Oil

Cosmetic products that mainly consist of oils include cleansing oils, self-emulsifying bath oils, body massage oils, hair oils, lipsticks, and solid lip rouges. Main constituents are oils of any kind and nonionic surfactants. The water content is very small if there is any. Formulation design involves combining oils that differ in polarity and melting points and adding nonionic surfactant HLB (Table 1.9).

Table 1.9

Basic formulations of cosmetics mainly consisting of oil

1.3.7 Facial Toner

Facial toner is designed by combining moisturizing agents so as to moisturize, soften, smoothen, firm up and give luster to the skin. It may also contain vitamin C derivatives for whitening, and fermentation extracts are included in some quasi-drug products for antiaging and wrinkle prevention. Many products also contain ceramides, vitamins, sterols, vegetable extracts, and other efficacious components.

Basic constituents are water, glycerin, and moisturizing agents, such as 1,3-butyl glycol, hydrolyzed collagen, amino

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