Camping British Columbia, the Rockies, and the Yukon: The Complete Guide to Government Campgrounds, 9th Edition

By Jayne Seagrave

The bestselling guide to campgrounds across BC, Yukon, and the Canadian Rockies, newly revised and updated.

Western Canada’s quintessential camping guide—now in its 9th edition—lays the groundwork for anyone planning to get out of the city and explore the best that nature has to offer. At a time when many people are bursting to travel but still concerned with safety, Camping British Columbia, the Rockies, and Yukon offers over 150 possibilities for campers of every age and experience level.

For those packing up the RV with all the comforts of home or pitching a tent next to a quiet spot by a picturesque lake, this practical guide tells would-be campers everything they need to know: which campgrounds have the best playgrounds, safe swimming beaches, and interpretive programs; which parks have hot showers and nearby restaurants; which grounds are RV accessible; and which are best for families, young adults, and retirees. Every provincial, territorial, or national park campground in the region is listed alphabetically, along with clear maps and directions, more than 100 photos, and the latest health and safety regulations.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Heritage House
• Release date: Sep 30, 2023
• ISBN: 9781772034004

Jayne Seagrave

Jayne Seagrave is travel writer and avid camper. She is the author of Camping British Columbia, the Rockies and Yukon, which has sold more than 40,000 copies since its first publication more than two decades ago, Camping with Kids in the West, and Time to Take Flight. Originally from the UK, she now lives in Vancouver and divides her time between travelling, writing, working, and speaking.

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Introduction

camping british columbia, the Rockies, and the Yukon was written out of a love of camping and a deep respect for Canada’s westernmost provinces and territory. As Canada’s third largest province, BC covers around 944,735 square kilometres, including about 18,000 square kilometres of inland water. BC has more land designated to provincial parks than any state in the US except Alaska and Hawaii, and it boasts over 400 different locations for day use and camping. In addition, seven national parks are found in the province, including Gulf Islands National Park Reserve, and five of these have developed camping facilities. With all this space for exploration and over 13,000 camping spots, it is little wonder that the camping experience has become an integral part of recreational life for BC residents and visitors alike.

The Yukon is, for the most part, a vastly unexplored region; 80 percent of it is pristine wilderness. Comprising 483,450 square kilometres and including over 8,000 square kilometres of water, it makes up almost 5 percent of Canada’s total land and offers over 1,000 wonderful camping spots set among this splendour.

Written both for those who camp in tents and those who use recreational vehicles (RVs), this book describes the location, facilities offered, and recreational activities available for all provincial, territorial, and national parks with campsites in BC and the Yukon that are accessible by vehicle (with the exception of Sidney Spit and Sayshutsun/Newcastle Island), and that provide at least the basic amenities of drinking water, picnic tables, fire pits, and pit toilets. No user-maintained campgrounds nor privately owned campgrounds are included, although many of these offer wonderful camping facilities. For convenience, these campgrounds are grouped into eight chapters (The Islands, Vancouver Coast and Mountains, Thompson Okanagan, BC Rockies—Provincial, Rockies—National, Cariboo–Chilcotin Coast, Northern BC, and The Yukon).

Camping is a popular and enjoyable activity for families.

The introductory chapter of this guide details important background information on camping in these areas. To offer guidance to the novice and provide reminders to the seasoned camper, I describe selecting a camping spot, packing for a camping trip, the reservation process, potential hazards, camping with kids, and camping for seniors. For those wanting to visit multiple campgrounds, I have suggested 7-, 14-, and 21-day camping itineraries, which are found in the Multi-Day Camping Tours chapter. The selections are based on my personal experiences and amenity evaluations, and cover reasonable daily travel distances.

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this ninth edition of Camping British Columbia, the Rockies, and the Yukon builds upon and updates the information contained in my previous books. From 2020 through 2022, following the COVID-19 pandemic and the restrictions on travel this created, there was an unprecedented demand for campsites and camping experiences in BC. From 2014 to 2019, BC experienced a 23 percent increase in the number of visits to parks. BC parks now receive more than 23 million visits per year. In 2020, 270,000 camping reservations were made. Many who had never camped before went camping for the first time and discovered what many of us have known for years: that camping in BC and the Yukon’s parks is fantastic. It is enjoyable, affordable, and (when the weather is good) a truly wonderful experience. During the pandemic the demand for campground sites far out-stripped supply, and while BC Parks tried to initiate policies to cope with this—for example, by reassigning group camping sites to family camping spots, restricting reservations to residents of BC, and increasing the number of reservable sites—demand continued to increase. In March 2021, when the reservation website opened, it immediately crashed as the number of those wanting access to it was so great. I predict this demand will continue in the future. Gone are the days of selecting a campground and driving to it, finding a space, and pitching a tent. Planning is now required, especially if you want to camp in the peak summer months. In April 2020, BC Parks announced an additional $83 million for the next three years for the creation of new campsites, investment in trails, and a strengthening of the park system.

Camping is a personal experience; what appeals to one person may not appeal to another. However, British Columbia, Alberta, and the Yukon are blessed with some of the most breathtaking scenery in the world. Many of the provincial, national, and territorial parks are nestled in the heart of this beauty and are yours to experience at relatively little cost. Over the last thirty years, I have travelled and camped in every region of BC and have been amazed at the stunning beauty the province offers. More recently, I have extended my camping experience to include the Yukon and those magnificent national parks that straddle the BC–Alberta border, and after exploring these areas I wanted to convey their beauty. I hope this book encourages more individuals to take the plunge and use the excellent facilities provided in their country’s parks. A wealth of adventures and experiences can be enjoyed by those of every age. So, what are you waiting for?

The Camping Experience

the aim of this chapter is to provide some of the basic ground rules for camping in BC and the Yukon’s national, provincial, and territorial parks. While the contents of this chapter are intended primarily for the uninitiated to show them what to expect, those who camp regularly will find information on making reservations, what to take, and how to deal with bears and other hazards. It also includes sections on websites, internet access, camping with children and teenagers, and camping for seniors.

Reservations

Most of the provincial and national park campgrounds in BC can be reserved ahead of time. In 1996, BC Parks created the Discover Camping reservation service that enabled advance reservations to be made in forty-two of the more popular provincial parks. The Discover Camping reservation service saw a 91 percent increase in demand in the last six years, and in 2022, BC Parks overhauled the whole system and relaunched a new site with upgraded capacity. Today, reservations can be made for over a hundred provincial parks (online or by phone; see sidebar on opposite page) and some campgrounds are 100 percent reservable. It is now also possible to make site-specific reservations in a number of campgrounds. For those who have found a full house at a popular campground on the times they have tried to visit, making a reservation well in advance is a way to avoid uncertainty. However, while the process has come a long way, each year there are always would-be campers who cannot find a space during the peak summer months. During the COVID-19 health crisis, this problem became acute as the demand for camping spots in 2020 and 2021 far outstripped supply, especially for the months of July and August. While reservations offer the advantage of assuring accommodation for the night, unless you have the option of choosing your spot, you may end up next to a particularly well-used thunderbox or at the busy entrance to the campground.

Reservation Information

Many campsites in provincial and national parks in BC can be reserved. Consult the online systems for a drop-down list of all parks that accept reservations.

BC Provincial Parks

Discover Camping Reservation Service

camping.bcparks.ca

1-800-689-9025 / 1-519-858-6161 overseas

Call centre availability: 7:00 am–7:00 pm PT daily, except December 25 and January 1

note: There is a $5.00 surcharge per transaction.

National Parks

Parks Canada Reservation Service

reservation.pc.gc.ca

1-877-737-3783 / 1-519-826-5391 overseas

Call centre availability: 8:00 am–6:00 pm local park time

Yukon Parks

Yukon Camping Permit

yukon.ca/en/camping-permit

Yukon Parks Backcountry Reservation System

yukon.goingtocamp.com

1-867-667-5648 / 1-800-661-0408, ext. 5648 toll-free in the Yukon

In 2022, the fee to reserve a site in a BC provincial park was $6.00 per night to a maximum of $18.00 for three to fourteen nights, in addition to the camping fee. An additional $5.00 surcharge is charged for phone reservations. A few of the most popular campgrounds restrict reservations to seven nights. Campers pay the reservation and campsite fees when making their reservation. Payment is taken by MasterCard or Visa and includes GST. Reservations are taken seven days a week from 7:00 am to 7:00 pm Pacific Time (weekdays), and 9:00 am to 5:00 pm (weekends). As of January 1, 2023, sites can be reserved up to four months prior to the campground’s first reservable date, and as late as two days prior to arrival. Reservations for statutory holiday weekends must be for a minimum of three nights (exceptions for specific holidays are posted on the BC Parks reservation website). In 2022, free day-use passes were required for day visitors at Garibaldi, Golden Ears, and Joffre Lakes provincial parks during peak season.

For national parks, reservations can be made through the Parks Canada Reservation Service (online or by phone; see sidebar on previous page). The service includes the Gulf Islands parks of Prior Centennial and SMONEĆTEN (McDonald). For many of the most popular campgrounds in BC, especially those on Vancouver Island and in the Lower Mainland and Okanagan, you must make a reservation if you want to camp during July and August. Beginning in January for the forthcoming year, you can reserve a campsite in a national park up to midnight on the day prior to your arrival. In 2022, the cost to make a reservation was $11.50 per stay if made online and $13.50 if made through the call centre, and you pay the campsite fee for the number of nights included in your stay at the same time. However, you will still be required to pay the park’s daily entry fee upon arrival at the park ($3.90 to $9.80 per person per day). You will also be charged to change or cancel a previously confirmed reservation. Many payment options are available, and they vary according to whether you reserve online or by phone. Check out the reservation website for more information.

The parks managed by the Yukon government (yukon.ca/en/outdoor-recreation-and-wildlife/camping) can be reserved for the first time in 2022. The Government of Yukon website provides a guide about the typical availability of its campgrounds according to the season. A daily camping permit is required and can be purchased at any road-accessible Government of Yukon campground. Pre-paid daily and Yukon resident annual permits can be purchased at many local establishments outside of Whitehorse or at Department of Environment offices (a complete list of vendors can be found at yukon.ca/en/where-buy-yukon-angling-hunting-and-camping-permits-or-licences). Yukon residents can also purchase annual permits online at env.eservices.gov.yk.ca.

Arriving at a Provincial, Territorial, or National Park Campground

All national, provincial, and territorial park campgrounds are well signposted from major highways. A sign (blue for provincial and territorial parks, brown for national parks) 2 kilometres before the campground turnoff is the first warning you will receive, followed by another one 400 metres from the campground, which will direct you to the access road. The park operator will post notices on these roadside signs to state when a campground is full or closed. You will come to appreciate what a real advantage this is if the campground is located 60 kilometres from the highway on a rough gravel road.

Selecting Your Spot and Setting Up Camp

Presuming you do not have a reservation (see Reservations), the excitement upon arrival is selecting your spot. Depending on the season, time of day, and location of the park, this decision may already be out of your hands. The park may be full or there may be only one place left. Some parks have areas specifically designated for tents, but most have spots suitable for both RVs and tents. A number of parks offer double spots, ideal for two families camping together, and pull-through spots for larger RVs. A map of the campground at the park entrance shows where these spots are found, but it is easy to just cruise around to select the most desirable spot. If the park offers a reservation service, the reserved sites will be listed at the park’s entrance and on the sites themselves. However, if the site has not been reserved there will frequently be a notice at the site that reads Available for one night. Campsites by any beach, lake, river, or creek are the most desirable locations, so head for them first, making a mental note of where the water tap is located. Try to avoid areas of stagnant water (mosquito breeding grounds) or spots close to the thunderboxes (pit toilets), which, during the park’s warm summer months, may exude unpleasant odours or attract flies, and whose banging doors can cause a disturbance. At first glance, spots near the flush toilets and showers may seem convenient, but remember that between 5:00 am and 11:00 am, and between 7:00 pm and 11:00 pm, most people at the campground will be visiting these facilities at least twice and walking past your site in order to do so. On the other hand, if you have children in your party or want to meet people, you may deem these spots ideal.

Once you have driven around and made a mental note of your preferences, return to the gatehouse and claim your first choice. Should you not want to pitch camp immediately, leave a plastic tablecloth or water jug on the picnic table to state to the world that this is your spot, then head back to the gatehouse to register and pay the associated fee. If there’s a staffed gatehouse or welcome centre at the campground, that’s generally where you’ll register and pay for your campsite (unless you have a reservation). You will be asked to provide your name, the number of people in your party, vehicle licence-plate number, and where you are from. You can request a particular spot to camp if you’ve picked one out, or you’ll be given a choice of available sites. You can pay for as many nights as you want, up to a maximum of fourteen nights in provincial, territorial, and national parks (some parks, such as sẁiẁs (Haynes Point) and Pacific Rim, may limit your stay to seven nights, while early on in the season it is possible to secure a long-term spot for a month in a few provincial park campgrounds).

Notice boards near park entrances provide useful information for campers.

In most parks, if you don’t register and pay upon arrival, you can drive around and select your own spot and an attendant will come and collect payment during the early-evening hours. (Park attendants are good sources of information on weather conditions, local activities, the best fishing locations, and so on.) Some parks operate a self-registration honour system whereby you deposit the campground fee in an envelope, place it in a box at the entrance to the park, and secure a receipt. All campgrounds in the Yukon operate under this system. For such instances, it is good to ensure that you have small bills and change, although fellow campers are usually willing to help you out. Instructions on self-registering will be printed on a sign at the park’s entrance and on the deposit envelope. Once you’ve completed the self-registration form, you post the receipt at your spot.

If you delay pitching your tent or going to collect water, just don’t forget what time it gets dark. This is particularly relevant if you are camping in the shoulder seasons of early spring and late summer, when darkness falls as early as 7:00 pm. Arriving at a campground late, pitching your tent in the dark, and cooking dinner by flashlight is challenging to say the least. In contrast, relaxing by the fire while the sun goes down and the stars come out is a highly pleasurable experience when you know your bed is made, dinner is over, and the dishes done. Once established in your new home, you are ready to explore the campground. The first port of call should be a return visit to the information board at the park’s entrance, where you will find a map of the campground and details about any hazards in the area.

Fees

For the most up-to-date fees for particular provincial parks, visit the BC Parks website at bcparks.ca; for national parks, visit pc.gc.ca; and for Yukon territorial parks, visit yukon.ca/camping. During the early-evening hours in most parks, an attendant will come and collect payment and will offer to sell you firewood. Cash is preferred, but credit cards are increasingly accepted, as long as the wireless connections are available. Be advised that many campgrounds, because of their location away from reliable cell phone and internet networks, are unable to accept credit cards. Camping fees vary depending on the facilities provided; campgrounds with showers tend to be the most expensive, whereas less developed campgrounds cost less. Fees include GST and in 2021 ranged from $13.00 to $35.00 (excluding hook-up costs) for provincial parks and up to $38.80 for national parks. In addition, a daily entrance fee is charged at national parks, even if you are staying overnight ($10.50 for adults, $9.00 for seniors, $21.00 for families and groups, while youths aged 17 and under can enter for free), but there are also annual passes available for single locations (in BC, only Pacific Rim) or all national parks (the Discovery Pass). Before June 15 and after Labour Day, residents of BC who are 65 or older may camp for half price in provincial parks. From June 15 to Labour Day, full rates apply. With the correct documentation, persons with disabilities who are residents of BC may be exempt from campsite fees.

Camping in the Yukon was $20.00 in 2022 if paid with cash on site, and $18.00 if pre-paid at a vendor or online. In 2022, the Yukon started a new reservation system to cope with the increasing demand. The cost of camping is reduced by 50 percent for those over 65 throughout the season.

If you intend to fish in national parks, you will have to purchase a permit ($10.25 per day or $35.75 per year). In BC, any angler over the age of 16 needs a Freshwater Fishing Licence to fish in provincial parks ($10.00 per day, $36.00 per year for BC residents; $20.00 per day, $55.00 per year for non-residents) and a tidal waters sport fishing licence from Fisheries and Oceans Canada if fishing in salt waters ($5.47 per day, $21.85 per year for Canadian residents). In the Yukon, a fishing licence is required for anglers over the age of 16 and under 65 ($10.40 per day, $26.01 for the season for non-residents); youths under 16 and seniors can fish for free. Parks request payment for firewood. Prices range from $8.00 to $15.00 per bundle—and the bundles do vary considerably in size. The farther north you travel in BC, the cheaper and larger the bundle becomes. National parks also charge $9.25 to campers intending to have a fire. If a sani-station is provided, there is usually a fee to use it ($5.00 in provincial parks, $9.25 in national parks). Firewood is free in the Yukon and there are no sani-stations in territorial parks.

Facilities

All campgrounds included in this book provide at least the basic amenities of drinking water, wood for sale, picnic tables, fire pits, and pit toilets; some larger campgrounds may also have sani-stations, flush toilets, showers, wheelchair access, interpretive programs, visitor centres, and/or group camping. A few campgrounds have power hook-ups. Since the COVID-19 pandemic, many campgrounds now supply hand sanitizer. Washroom facilities are generally well maintained, clean, and, unlike many campgrounds I have stayed in abroad, never run out of toilet paper. (I was preconditioned in Europe, so it took me years to stop carrying a spare roll with me.) Gravel camping spots are tidied and raked after each visitor departs, garbage is regularly collected, and recycling is encouraged. Overall, the facilities provided in BC’s national and provincial parks and the territorial parks of the Yukon are excellent. No user-maintained campgrounds are included as these tend to be in remote areas and are often not easily accessible.

Staying connected to the internet while camping is very much dependent on where the campground is located. Some have Wi-Fi access, especially if adjacent to urban areas, but many do not, or may be located in the shadow of a mountain or in a valley, which prevents reception. Do not go camping expecting to get a reliable Wi-Fi connection.

Campfires

For many people, myself included, building and enjoying a campfire is an essential part of camping. In 2004, BC Parks started to charge for bundled firewood, and national parks now require that you purchase a campfire permit for each fire. A few campgrounds (e.g., Porpoise Bay and Stawamus Chief) have even gone so far as to ban individual campfires at all times while others actively discourage fires for environmental reasons. When conditions are excessively hot and dry, as they were in the summer of 2021, campgrounds in arid areas ban fires altogether. With global warming, fire bans in certain areas have become the norm rather than the exception. If you need a campfire to make your camping experience complete, contact the campground you want to stay in to determine if fires are allowed, or check the campground noticeboard when you arrive. If there is a fire ban, numerous signs and notices are posted along highways and at the campgrounds, and fines levied for those ignoring the law can be heavy. For general information about BC wildfires and current campfire restrictions, see bcwildfire.ca.

Security Issues

Over the last thirty years, and since the publication of the first edition of Camping British Columbia, I have taken part in a number of radio phone-in interviews and given advice and guidance on camping issues. A sad development in these yearly events is the increase in the number of people calling the radio station to relay stories of being victims of crime at a campground, usually the theft of unsecured possessions. I still maintain that camping is very safe, but it cannot be denied that crimes do take place. Generally, they tend to occur in the larger campgrounds nearer to centres of population (e.g., Golden Ears, Cultus Lake, Sxótsaqel/Chilliwack Lake). Many of these parks now have security patrols to deter theft. Crime can occur anywhere, and it is the responsibility of the camper to minimize the opportunity for it to take place, especially in parks that have been targets for deviants in the past. BC Parks frequently displays signs informing campers that the campground has been a target for crime in the past and suggesting extra vigilance.

Potential Hazards

Any hazards to be found in a particular park are posted at the campground entrance, but here are the more common problems and how to avoid them.

Swimmer’s itch Parasites living in freshwater snails and waterfowl can cause swimmer’s itch (a.k.a. cercarial dermatitis), a temporary skin irritation caused by the parasites’ larvae entering the skin. The larvae thrive close to the shore in the warm waters of lakes and ponds where Canada geese and other waterfowl are found. Because children go in and out of the water frequently and have tender skin, they are particularly vulnerable. Swimmer’s itch can be avoided by applying an oil, such as baby oil, to the skin before swimming, towelling off briskly, and showering after swimming. The presence of swimmer’s itch is indicated by small red spots that can develop into small blisters. Although unpleasant, the condition can be treated with calamine lotion and usually clears up by itself within a week. The information board at the campground entrance will indicate whether swimmer’s itch is a problem at the lake you plan to visit.

Poison ivy This low, glossy plant with three green leaves and white berries can produce severe skin rashes. It is prevalent in sunny areas on Vancouver Island and in the Okanagan. Calamine lotion is an effective treatment.

Sunburn You are living largely outdoors when camping, and it is easy to forget how long you have been exposed to the sun. Apply and reapply sunscreen, wear a hat, and be especially careful when you’re around water or snow, which reflect the sun and can increase your chance of sunburn.

Water Lifeguards are not employed in BC parks, so a watchful eye must be kept on those who cannot swim. Some parks have designated swimming areas; others do not. Weather conditions may change rapidly in some locations, with winds suddenly developing and causing a hazard for boating enthusiasts. Again, information on the park’s notice board will state whether this is a problem.

Bears The area covered by this book is home to almost a quarter of all the black bears in Canada and about half of all grizzlies. Although encounters between people and bears are rare, campers should remember they are always in bear country. Respect bears as strong, fast, wild animals, and act responsibly at all times.

Generally, bears go out of their way to avoid people, but all bears are dangerous. They can rip apart tents and vehicles in their search for food, run as fast as a racehorse, and have excellent sight, hearing, and sense of smell. They are strong swimmers, and black bears and young grizzlies are agile tree-climbers. Upon leaving the city, you are in bear country and should use caution.

Anyone planning to camp or spend time in the outdoors should learn how to recognize a black or grizzly bear and how to respond accordingly. Black bears can be black, brown, cinnamon, or blond with a straight-face profile, short curved claws, and a small shoulder hump. Grizzly bears can also be black, brown, or blond, but they are bigger than black bears and have long curved claws and a prominent shoulder hump.

When walking in bear country, watch for warning signs, such as tracks, overturned rocks, clawed trees, chewed roots, and droppings. Talk loudly, wear bear bells, or sing to make your presence known. If you see a bear in the distance, leave the area immediately. If you encounter one at close range, avoid eye contact, move away slowly, and stay calm. If the bear stands up as it approaches you, it is trying to identify what you are. Talk quietly so it knows you are human. If it is lowering its head, flattening its ears, snapping its jaws, and snorting, the bear is displaying aggression. This is serious. Do not run, but continue to back away. If a grizzly shows aggression, consider climbing a tree. Generally, the key is to do nothing to threaten or arouse the animal. If a grizzly attacks, play dead and adopt a tight, curled-up position with your head on your knees and your hands behind your neck. Do not move until the bear leaves the area. If a black bear attacks, try to retreat to a safe place and use weapons, such as rocks and branches, to deter the animal.

Never approach or feed bears. Food-conditioned bears—those that scavenge food from garbage cans and picnic tables—begin to associate food with people, lose their natural fear of humans, and become a threat to campers and to themselves. With caution and sensible behaviour, you can safely camp in and enjoy bear country. Some campgrounds in the Yukon are closed to tent camping at certain times of the year if the bear activity in the area has been deemed considerable. Information on BC wildlife and safety can be found at wildsafebc.com.

What to Take Camping

To the uninitiated, it would appear that some people take everything camping. On one occasion, I camped next to a couple who had a large RV with two mountain bikes tied to the front, a boat on the roof, and a small four-wheel-drive vehicle towed behind. Their picnic table displayed several coolers of assorted sizes, wine glasses, a breadbasket, and a red-checked tablecloth; overhead was an ornate striped awning. Artificial grass, potted plants, lanterns, and numerous plastic lounge chairs with cushions were strategically positioned around a huge barbecue. This campsite had more accoutrements than my home (and was certainly worth more). It is impossible to provide the definitive list of necessities, but there are a number of items that will make your camping experience more enjoyable, whether you are a tenter or an RVer.

I started