The Rough Guide to Mallorca & Menorca (Travel Guide eBook)

By Rough Guides

Practical travel guide to Mallorca & Menorca featuring points-of-interest structured lists of all sights and off-the-beaten-track treasures, with detailed colour-coded maps, practical details about what to see and to do in Mallorca & Menorca, how to get there and around, pre-departure information, as well as top time-saving tips, like a visual list of things not to miss in Mallorca & Menorca, expert author picks and itineraries to help you plan your trip.

The Rough Guide to Mallorca & Menorca covers: Palma, So´ller, Port de So´ller, Biniaraix, Fornalutx, Deia`, Son Marroig, Valldemossa, La Granja, Andratx, Port d'Andratx, Sa Dragonera, Pollença, Cala Sant Vicenç, Badi´a de Pollença, Alcu´dia, Es Pla, Binissalem, Sineu, Petra, Porto Petro, Mao´, Ciutadella, Fornells

Inside this travel guide you'll find:

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR EVERY TYPE OF  TRAVELLER
Experiences selected for every kind of trip to Mallorca & Menorca, from off-the-beaten-track adventures in Es Pla, Binissalem or Cala Mondrago´ to family activities in child-friendly places, like Port de Pollença, or chilled-out breaks in popular tourist areas, like Mao´, Palma and Sa Calobra.

PRACTICAL TRAVEL TIPS
Essential pre-departure information including Mallorca & Menorca entry requirements, getting around, health information, travelling with children, sports and outdoor activities, food and drink, festivals, culture and etiquette, shopping, tips for travellers with disabilities and more.

TIME-SAVING ITINERARIES
Carefully planned routes covering the best of Mallorca & Menorca give a taste of the richness and diversity of the destinations, and have been created for different time frames or types of trip.

DETAILED REGIONAL COVERAGE
Clear structure within each sightseeing chapter includes regional highlights, brief history, detailed sights and places ordered geographically, recommended restaurants, hotels, bars, clubs and major shops or entertainment options.

INSIGHTS INTO GETTING AROUND LIKE A  LOCAL
Tips on how to beat the crowds, save time and money and find the best local spots for hiking, windsurfing, scuba diving, snorkelling and cycling.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THINGS NOT TO MISS
Rough Guides' rundown of Valldemossa, Monestir de Lluc, Talati´ de Dalt and Cabrera's best sights and top experiences help to make the most of each trip to Mallorca & Menorca, even in a short time.

HONEST AND INDEPENDENT REVIEWS:
Written by Rough Guides' expert authors with a trademark blend of humour, honesty and expertise, to help to find the best places in Mallorca & Menorca, matching different needs.

BACKGROUND INFORMATION
Comprehensive 'Contexts' chapter features fascinating insights into Mallorca & Menorca, with coverage of history, religion, ethnic groups, environment, wildlife and books, plus a handy language section and glossary.

FABULOUS FULL COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY
Features inspirational colour photography, including the stunning Jardins d'Alfa`bia and the spectacular Serra de Tramuntana.

COLOUR-CODED MAPPING
Practical full-colour maps, with clearly numbered, colour-coded keys for quick orientation in Palma, Mao´, Ciutadella and many more locations in Mallorca & Menorca, reduce need to go online.

USER-FRIENDLY LAYOUT
With helpful icons, and organised by neighbourhood to help you pick the best spots to spend your time.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Insight Guides
• Release date: Jun 15, 2022
• ISBN: 9781839058134

Rough Guides

Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

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Contents

Introduction to Mallorca & Menorca

Where to go

When to go

Author picks

things not to miss

Itineraries

Basics

Getting there

Getting around

Accommodation

Food and drink

The media

Festivals

Sports and outdoor activities

Shopping

Travel essentials

Palma and around

Palma

Around Palma

Western Mallorca

Sóller

Port de Sóller

Biniaraix

Fornalutx

Jardins d’Alfàbia

Raixa

Bunyola to Alaró

Deià

Son Marroig

Valldemossa

Port de Valldemossa

La Granja

Esporles

Banyalbufar

Estellencs

Andratx

Sant Elm and around

Port d’Andratx

Northern Mallorca

The northern coast

Pollença

Cala Sant Vicenç

Badía de Pollença

Alcúdia

The Badía d’Alcúdia

Southern Mallorca

Binissalem

Inca

Sineu

Petra

Els Calderers de Sant Joan

Gordiola glassworks

Algaida

The Massís de Randa

Llucmajor

Manacor

Artà and around

Colònia de Sant Pere

Capdepera

Cala Rajada

Coves d’Artà

Canyamel

Porto Cristo

Felanitx and around

Porto Petro

Mondragó Parc Natural

Santanyí and around

Cap de Ses Salines

Colònia de Sant Jordi and around

Cabrera National Park

Menorca

Maó

Port de Maó

Southeast Menorca

The northeast coast

Central Menorca

Ciutadella

Around Ciutadella

Contexts

History

Flora and fauna

Books

Language

Glossary

Small Print

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Introduction to Mallorca & Menorca

As he wandered Mallorca in the 1860s, the British traveller Captain Clayton couldn’t help but exclaim that the island Presents to the delighted eye a charming blend of savage wilderness and fertile cultivation. In no part of the world can one behold a more complete picture gallery of all the varieties of natural scenery. Very few English-speaking travellers ventured to Mallorca and Menorca in the nineteenth century, but those who did were suitably impressed by the beauty of the landscape if not by the islanders themselves, who were generally disparaged as disagreeable and unruly. The same conflicting attitudes survive today: millions of tourists count Menorca and Mallorca as favourite holiday destinations, though surprisingly few know much about the islanders. In fact, this easterly section of the Balearic archipelago – which also includes Ibiza and Formentera – has a rich cultural history, and many of its inhabitants still live in the most charming of country towns – Sineu, Artà and Ciutadella to name but three – at a (safe) distance from the teeming resorts of the coast.

The islands’ image today embraces extreme ends of the spectrum: on one level, Mallorca is a popular haunt of the rich and famous; on the other it has an unenviable reputation for tacky tourism built on sun, sex, booze and high-rise hotels. The truth is that Mallorca manages to be both at the same time: at 5pm you can be carousing with the Brits in Magaluf and half an hour later you can be sipping a coffee in a quiet mountain village. The good news is that the ugly development of the 1960s, which submerged tracts of coastline beneath hotels, villas and apartment blocks, is essentially constrained to the Bay of Palma and a handful of mega-resorts notching the east coast. For the most part Mallorca remains handsome and frequently fascinating, from the craggy mountains and medieval monasteries of its north coast to the antique towns of the central plain.

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To the east of Mallorca lies Menorca, the second largest and most agricultural of the Balearic islands, with a population of just 99,000. Menorca’s rolling fields, wooded ravines and humpy hills fill out the interior in between its two main – but still small – towns of Maó, the island’s capital, and Ciutadella. Much of Menorca’s landscape looks pretty much as it did at the turn of the twentieth century, though a lot of the fields are no longer cultivated, and many – but certainly not all – of its beguiling beachy coves have been colonized by villa complexes. Nor is the development likely to spread: the resorts have been kept at a discreet distance from the two main towns and the Menorcans are keen to avoid overdevelopment. Indeed, they have created a chain of conservation areas that protect about half of the island, including the pristine coves that count among its real delights.

Fact file

The Balearic islands have a population of just over 1,200,000; Mallorca weighs in with 948,000, Menorca with just 99,000. Foreign-born inhabitants account for around twenty percent of the population; the largest group are from Germany, with an average age of 48.

The Spanish parliament – the Cortes Generales – sits in Madrid, but many of its powers have been devolved to seventeen autonomous regions, one of which – the Comunidad Autónoma de las Islas Baleares– covers the Balearics, whose capital is Palma.

The mountains of Mallorca are home to the islands’ ornithological star turn, the rare black vulture (Aegypius monachus), a dark and solitary bird of striking proportions, standing 130cm tall, weighing anywhere between 7 and 14kg and with an adult wingspan of nearly 3m. They almost died out in the 1970s, but a well-executed conservation scheme seems to have saved the day – there are now about 130 birds.

Spain is a Catholic country, though only about 15 percent of its population attends Mass every week. One result of the decline in religious observance has been a shortage of monks and nuns: all the monasteries on Mallorca are now deconsecrated, with several offering inexpensive lodgings (see page 39).

Where to go

In Mallorca, the logical place to begin a visit is Palma, the island capital, which arches around the shores of its bay just a few kilometres from Mallorca’s busy international airport. Palma is the Balearics’ one real city, a bustling, historic place whose oligarchic mansions and magnificent Gothic cathedral serve as a fine backdrop to an excellent café and restaurant scene, from the hipster hangouts of the Sa Gerreria neighbourhood to the chef-led, chichi restaurants of the Old Town – plus everything in between. Add to this lots of good hotels and you’ve got a city that deserves at least a couple of days. Indeed, many visitors spend their entire holiday here, day-tripping out to the rest of the island – an easy proposition as it’s only a couple of hours’ drive from one end of Mallorca to the other. To the east of Palma stretches Es Pla, an agricultural plain that fills out the centre of the island, sprinkled with ancient and seldom-visited country towns, the most interesting of which are Sineu and Petra. On either side of the plain are coastal mountains. To the north, the wild and wonderful Serra de Tramuntana rolls along the entire coastline, punctuated by deep sheltered valleys and beautiful cove beaches, notably Cala Deià and the Platja de Formentor. Tucked away here in the mountains is Sóller, a delightful little town of old stone merchant houses that is best reached from Palma on the antique railway, an extraordinarily scenic journey. The mountains also camouflage a string of picturesque villages, most memorably Estellencs, Banyalbufar, Deià – the long-time haunt of Robert Graves – and Fornalutx, as well as a pair of intriguing monasteries at Valldemossa, where Chopin and George Sand famously wintered, and Lluc, home to a much-venerated statue of the Madonna. For walkers, the range is crisscrossed with footpaths and makes for ideal hiking, particularly in the cooler spring and autumn. Beyond Lluc, the mountains roll down to a coastal plain that holds the lovely little town of Pollença and one of the island’s most appealing medium-sized resorts, Port de Pollença, which is itself just along the bay from the sprawling but well-kept resort of Port d’Alcúdia. In the north, Mallorca finishes with a final scenic flourish in the rearing cliffs of the Península de Formentor.

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Stone-built houses of Fornalutx

Jon Arnold / AWL Images

Mallorca’s second mountain range, the gentler, greener Serres de Llevant shadows the coves of the east coast and culminates in the pine-clad headlands and medieval hill towns of the island’s northeast corner. Many of the east-coast resorts are overblown, but the pick are Cala Rajada, close to several fine beaches, and pint-sized Porto Petro. There are also a couple of easily visited cave systems – the most diverting is the Coves del Drac – and the comely, artsy hilltop town of Artà, close to the substantial prehistoric remains of Ses Paisses. Different again is the south coast, where a long and rocky shelf jags out into the ocean – though this part of the island is redeemed by the charming resort and seaport of Colònia de Sant Jordi and its accompanying beaches.

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Outdoor dining in Palma

Jon Arnold / AWL Images

Smaller, flatter Menorca, the most easterly of the Balearics, boasts two attractive towns, the island capital of Maó, just 5km from the airport, and Ciutadella, 45km to the west. Both have preserved much of their eighteenth- and early nineteenth-century appearance, though Ciutadella has the aesthetic edge, the many lanes and alleys of its ancient centre shadowed by fine old mansions and monasteries. Linking the two, the island’s only main road, the Me-1, slips across the rural interior, passing the pleasant market towns of Es Migjorn Gran, Es Mercadal and Ferreries. A series of sideroads branches off to the island’s resorts, the best appointed of which are Cala Galdana and the one-time fishing village of Fornells, as well as a string of wind-battered headlands and remote cove beaches. The highway also squeezes past Monte Toro, Menorca’s highest peak and the site of a quaint little convent with panoramic views. Menorca’s other claim to fame is its smattering of prehistoric remains – two of the most important being Talatí de Dalt, outside Maó, and the Naveta d’es Tudons, near Ciutadella.

FABULOUS FINCAS

The Balearics are dotted with old stone fincas (or farmhouses), many of which have been turned into holiday homes and hotels. The largest – for example La Granja (see page 102) and Raixa (see page 92) – are effectively rural palaces that have become tourist attractions in their own right, but the bulk offer lodgings, mostly at the top end of the market. Prime examples include Ca’s Xorc (see page 87) in the mountains near Sóller; Can Llenaire (see page 125), still part of a working farm and with panoramic coastal views; and the Biniarroca Hotel Rural, near Sant Lluís in Menorca (see page 174). In part, the charm of staying in a finca lies in the solidity and simplicity of its architectural form: a stone or stone-and-rubble exterior, a flagged exterior courtyard, shuttered and grilled rectangular windows, and high, wood-beamed ceilings. It’s also usual to find fincas surrounded by a raft of what were originally specialist agricultural buildings, from olive presses and workshops through to barns and store houses.

BEST BALEARIC BEACHES

MALLORCA

Cala Deià Crystal-clear waters and a narrow pebbly beach in a hoop-shaped cove at the end of a lovely wooded gulch. Great setting; great beach bar-restaurant. See page 96

Cala Tuent Not much sand here – it’s all shingle and pebble – but the mountain setting is a delight and the beach is rarely crowded. See page 115

Es Trenc Whichever way you cut it, most of Mallorca’s beaches are crowded, but not this one – a long, sandy strand on the south coast. See page 158

Platja de Palma Roast and pose among the muscle-flexing, oiled pecs and abs. See page 79

Port d’Alcúdia A long and immaculately maintained stretch of golden sand on the north coast. See page 132

Port de Pollença A bucket-and-spade family affair, with safe bathing and sandcastle building. See page 123

Sant Elm Cosy, sandy beach in a charming setting on the western tip of the island. See page 105

MENORCA

Cala Macarella A real treat, the cove’s band of white sand is flanked and framed by handsome limestone cliffs. See page 192

Cala Pregonda It takes a good deal of effort to get here, but the reward is a wide slice of sand in a beguiling setting. See page 178

Cala Turqueta Exquisite and beautiful beach, comprising a handsome horseshoe of white sand set beneath limestone cliffs. See page 192

Platja de Cavalleria A slender arc of pristine sand is framed by grassy dunes at this delightful north-coast beach. See page 178

When to go

There’s little difference between the climates of Mallorca and Menorca. Spring and autumn are the ideal times for a visit, when the weather is comfortably warm, with none of the oven-like temperatures that bake the islands in late June, July and August. It’s well worth considering a winter break too: even in January temperatures are usually high enough to sit out at a café in shirtsleeves. Both islands see occasional rain in winter, however, and the Serra de Tramuntana mountains, which protect the rest of Mallorca from inclement weather and the prevailing northerly winds, are often buffeted by storms, while Menorca, where there’s no mountain barrier, can be irritatingly windy. Reflecting their agricultural past, the islanders have names for the four main winds that blow across their land: Tramuntana, Ponent, Migjorn and Llevant, respectively northerly, westerly, southerly and easterly.

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Author picks

Our author recommendations don’t end here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the ê symbol.

Our author, Phil Lee, has made countless trips to Mallorca and Menorca over the years, but there are some things he likes to do, or places he just has to visit, every time he returns. Here’s a selection of his favourites.

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Village of Estellencs

© Novarc Images / Alamy

Prettiest villages Both Menorca and Mallorca are threaded with pretty villages, but three of the best are Estellencs (see page 104), where the tourist presence is noticeably thin, Biniaraix (see page 91), the trailhead for some dramatic mountain walks, and Orient (see page 93), a place so quiet that you can hear the softest of bird calls.

Mallorcan Primitives Not Primitive Mallorcans, but rather a school of medieval artists who produced a brigade of exquisite devotional paintings, on display in Palma at the cathedral (see page 58) and at the Museu Diocesà (see page 62).

Mountain roads Not for the faint-hearted, or the poor-of-steering, some of Mallorca’s mountain roads offer superb views: try the hairpins of the Castell d’Alaró (see page 93) and the lane up to the Ermita de Nostra Senyora del Puig (see page 120) for starters.

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Port d’Alcúdia

iStock

Palma cathedral No question, this is one of the finest Gothic churches in Europe – absolutely unmissable, both for the stunning beauty of its medieval architecture and for the later additions made by no less a figure than Antoni Gaudí (see page 58).

Great hikes Both Mallorca and Menorca offer the adventurous – and not so adventurous – hiker some wonderful experiences: the circular hike on the Alcúdia Peninsula is a particular favourite (see page 130), as is the hike from Es Grau to Sa Torreta on Menorca (see page 176).

Seaside R&R The sandy beach at Sant Elm (see page 105) is a favourite spot for some downtime, as are the quiet strands near the resort of Colònia de Sant Jordi (see page 157). With kids in tow, head for the family-friendly beach at either Port de Pollença (see page 123) or Port d’Alcúdia (see page 132).

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15

things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything that Mallorca and Menorca have to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows is a selective taste of the islands’ highlights: gorgeous beaches and magnificent scenery, quaint towns and great places to eat and drink. All entries are colour-coded by chapter and have a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more.

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1 Valldemossa

See page 98

Sitting pretty in the hills, the ancient town of Valldemossa is home to a fascinating monastery whose echoing cloisters and shadowy cells once accommodated Chopin and George Sand.

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2 Monestir de Lluc

See page 115

This rambling monastery holds the Balearics’ most venerated icon, La Moreneta, and is also a great base for mountain hikes.

Simon Bracken / Rough Guides

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3 Talatí de Dalt

See page 170

In an attractive rural setting close to Maó, this extensive site is one of the most satisfying of Menorca’s many prehistoric remains.

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4 Eating in Palma

See page 73

Palma has the liveliest café and restaurant scene in the Balearics, with a hatful of first-rate places both in the Old Town and the Sa Gerreria neighbourhood. Be sure to try the islanders’ favourite nibble – a spiralled flaky pastry known as an ensaimada.

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5 Cabrera

See page 159

Protected as a national park, this austere, scrub-covered islet is home to a battered hilltop castle, a wealth of birdlife and the rare Lilford’s wall lizard.

Alamy

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6 Palma–Sóller train

See page 84

Take a trip on the vintage train that wends its way over the mountains from Palma to Sóller, providing wonderful views and serving as a fine introduction to Mallorca’s best landscapes.

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7 Jardins d’Alfàbia

See page 91

The lush, oasis-like Jardins d’Alfàbia are the finest gardens on Mallorca, their watered trellises and terraces dating back to green-fingered Moors.

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8 Hiking in the Serra de Tramuntana

See pages 84 and 114

Rolling along the west coast, this rugged mountain range holds scores of exhilarating hiking trails, most famously the long-distance GR221.

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9 Península de Formentor

See page 125

The knobbly peaks and sheer cliffs of this spectacular peninsula backdrop one of Mallorca’s best beaches and ritziest hotels.

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10 Santuari de Sant Salvador, Artà

See page 147

The sun-bleached roofs of small-town Artà clamber up the steepest of hills to this shrine, one of Mallorca’s most important, with the prehistoric village of Ses Païsses close at hand.

Alamy

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11 Sóller

See page 84

Sóller is an appealing country town of old stone mansions surrounded by orange and lemon groves, not to mention mountains.

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12 Palma Cathedral

See page 58

Dominating the waterfront, the monumental bulk of Palma’s magnificent cathedral offers one of Spain’s finest examples of the Gothic style, its interior flooded with kaleidoscopic shafts of light.

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13 Ciutadella

See page 185

The prettiest town on Menorca, the island’s former capital cuddles up to a narrow harbour, its network of cobbled lanes flanked by a string of handsome mansions.

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14 The Mallorcan Primitives

See pages 64, 62 and 60

A late medieval school of painters who produced strikingly naive devotional works – Joan Desi being one of its most talented practitioners.

Getty Images

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15 Maó

See page 166

Menorca’s modest capital has an amiable small-town feel, its tiny centre a labyrinth of ancient lanes and alleys graced by old and appealing townhouses and churches.

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Itineraries

Create your own itinerary with Rough Guides. Whether you’re after adventure or a family-friendly holiday, we have a trip for you, with all the activities you enjoy doing and the sights you want to see. All our trips are devised by local experts who get the most out of the destination. Visit www.roughguides.com/trips to chat with one of our travel agents.

Mallorca and Menorca’s attractions are myriad – our three itineraries guide you round Mallorca’s must-see sights, Menorca’s unique prehistoric remains, and – for those on a budget – Mallorca’s most authentic and relatively inexpensive places to stay.

GRAND TOUR OF MALLORCA

Spend a few days in Palma before threading your way along the island’s invigorating, surf-battered north coast, via quiet villages and wondrous scenery. Allow around ten days for this itinerary.

1 Palma Allow three days to explore the capital’s ancient nooks and crannies and enjoy its first-rate cafés and restaurants. See page 58

2 Estellencs Some say this is Mallorca’s prettiest village, a huddle of ancient houses clinging gingerly to steep, sea-facing slopes. See page 104

3 Valldemossa A hilltop town with the island’s most fascinating monastery, where Chopin spent an unforgiving winter. See page 98

4 Deià Between mountain and sea, chichi Deià has a scattering of old stone houses perched high above the ocean. See page 94

5 Sóller Wandering the narrow cobbled streets of this beguiling town gives you a real flavour of island life. See page 84

6 Port de Sóller Arced around a horseshoe-shaped bay, this recently upgraded resort has a superb selection of restaurants. See page 88

7 Lluc The monks may have gone, but the monastery and its shrine remains, making it one of the island’s key sights. See page 115

8 Pollença A cosy town with a low-key feel in the prettiest of settings. See page 129

9 Port de Pollença Safe bathing and a long sandy beach are the key to this resort’s family-friendly appeal. See page 123

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TAULAS AND TALAYOTS: A TOUR OF MENORCA’S PREHISTORY

Menorca is world-famous for its prehistoric remains, which lie scattered across the whole island. They date from the so-called Talayotic period and are named for the distinctive conical rock mounds – talayots – found at most key sites. The talayots often lie cheek-to-jowl with Menorca’s most mysterious artefacts, T-shaped taulas of around 4m high. Allow two to three days for this itinerary.

1 Talatí de Dalt This delightful prehistoric site features a taula, a large talayot – and a tribe of free-range hogs. See page 170

2 Torralba d’en Salord A rural setting and one of the best-preserved taulas on the island makes this a worthwhile diversion. See page 179

3 Torre d’en Gaumés One of the largest prehistoric settlements on the island, with three talayots, a taula and the remains of a water collection system. See page 179

4 Torrellafuda A well-preserved talayot in a lovely, rustic setting. See page 185

5 Naveta d’es Tudons The island’s most intact naveta, or stone ossuary. See page 185

AUTHENTIC MALLORCA: FROM HOSTAL TO HOSTAL

In recent years, Mallorca has sprouted a veritable battalion of deluxe hotels as the island as a whole has moved upmarket, and though many are great places to stay, they are expensive, and often reflect little of the island’s heritage. But there remains a scattering of well-kept, traditional hostales and hotels which offer a taste of an older, less homogenized Mallorca – with the added bonus that they are all relatively inexpensive. Allow around twelve days for this itinerary.

1 Hotel Born, Palma In a big old townhouse, this enjoyable hotel with its lovely courtyard has a great city-centre location. See page 72

2 Hostal Dragonera, Sant Elm Unpretentious, inexpensive hostal with a prime seashore location in this tidy little resort. See page 106

3 Hostal Miramar, Deià Handsome Deià may be a trustafarian paradise, but the Miramar bucks the trend, being a simple and traditional hostal with grand views out across the coast. See page 96

4 El Guía, Sóller Long-established and very traditional lodgings, just footsteps from the train station. See page 87

5 Pension Bellavista, Pollença Perhaps the funkiest place to stay on the island – these Spanish hipsters must have Franco turning in his grave. See page 125

6 Hostal Condemar, Cala Mondragó A small slice of the east coast has been conserved and protected by the creation of Mondragó Parc Natural – and this hostal is at the heart of it. See page 156

7 Hostal Playa, Colònia de Sant Jordi Low-key hostal perched tight against the seashore of this appealing resort. See page 159

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Basics

Getting there

Hundreds of flights shuttle back and forth between Britain and Ireland and Mallorca and Menorca during the summer season, and although the pace slackens in winter, there is still a wide choice of flights to Mallorca, if somewhat fewer to Menorca. Visitors from North America, Australasia and South Africa, on the other hand, will need to fly to a European hub airport, such as London, Madrid or Barcelona, before catching an onward flight to the islands. It’s also possible to reach Mallorca and Menorca by ferry and catamaran from Spain’s east coast, but obviously this takes much longer.

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Torrent de Pareis, Serra de Tramuntana

Alamy

Flights from the UK

From the UK, Mallorca and Menorca are readily reached from London and a veritable raft of regional airports. Flying times from London to either island are a little over 2hr (2hr 45min from Manchester). Fierce competition tends to keep fares way down on flights from London to Palma, but from regional airports fares are more variable. If you strike lucky, a return fare can cost as little as £100, though £250 is more normal, whereas a standard, fully flexible return can cost upwards of £400.

Flights from Ireland

There is a good range of flights from Ireland to both Mallorca and Menorca during the summer, but out of season you may have to travel via London, Madrid or Barcelona. The flying time from Dublin direct to either island is just under 3hr. Prices are highest in August – reckon on around £250 return from Belfast, €300 from Dublin – but drop a little in the months either side.

Flights from the USA

There are no direct nonstop flights from the USA to Mallorca or Menorca, but there are direct nonstop flights from several US cities to Madrid and Barcelona, from where it’s a short and easy hop to either island. Often, it’s cheaper to travel to London (or an alternative hub city) and pick up an onward flight from there. As sample fares, a return, nonstop flight from New York to Barcelona with American Airlines (http://aa.com) costs upwards of US$1600, US$1700 from Atlanta to Madrid; from both there are regular flights on to the islands (see page 35). The flying time on a direct, nonstop service from New York to Madrid is just over seven hours.

Flights from Canada

There are no nonstop/direct flights from Canada to Mallorca or Menorca. However, you can fly there from any of Canada’s major cities by using a combination of airlines and travelling via a European hub airport. Return fares from Toronto to a European hub city with Air Canada (http://aircanada.com) go for around Can$800, Can$1000 from Vancouver. The flying time nonstop from Toronto to Madrid is 7hr 30min.

Flights from Australia and New Zealand

There are no nonstop/direct flights to Spain from Australia or New Zealand, and you’ll need to change planes once or twice to reach Madrid or Barcelona, from where there are regular flights on to Mallorca and Menorca. For flying times, count on 24hr via Asia or 30hr via the USA, not including time spent on stopovers. Fares with the likes of Emirates Airlines (http://emirates.com) from Sydney or Melbourne to Madrid or Barcelona begin at around A$1800, NZ$2500 from Christchurch or Wellington. Another option is to pick up a cheap ticket to London, and then continue your journey to Mallorca or Menorca with a budget airline.

Flights from South Africa

There are no direct/nonstop flights to Spain from South Africa – you have to fly to a European hub to catch an onward plane to Mallorca or Menorca. As for fares, flights from Cape Town to a European hub cost around ZAR10,000; from Johannesburg, ZAR8000. The flying time on a direct, nonstop flight from South Africa to London is just over 11hr.

Flights from mainland Spain

Menorca and more especially Mallorca are easily reached by plane from mainland Spain with regular scheduled flights departing from a number of Spanish cities, including Valencia, Barcelona and Madrid. Journey times are minimal (Barcelona to Palma takes just 40min) and ticket prices modest, starting out at just €50 for the one-way flight from Barcelona to Palma, €60 from Madrid. The principal carrier is Iberia (http://iberia.com).

Flights between the Balearic islands

Three of the Balearic islands have international airports – Ibiza, Mallorca and Menorca – and there are frequent inter-island flights, though flights linking Ibiza and Menorca are often routed via Mallorca. There’s usually no problem with seat availability, but you do need to book ahead during the height of the season and on public holidays. The two main carriers are Iberia (http://iberia.com) and Air Europa (http://aireuropa.com), both of which operate inter-island flights daily. One-way fares between any of the islands start at around €90. The flying time between Ibiza and Mallorca and between Mallorca and Menorca is 40min.

By train from the UK

Travelling by train from London St Pancras, it usually takes somewhere between 16hr and 21hr to reach Barcelona, from where there are regular ferries to Palma and Maó (see page 35). Round-trip fares from London to Barcelona begin at around £200, but heavy discounts on this price are often available. For through-ticketing, contact Rail Europe (http://raileurope.com) or Trainline (http://thetrainline.com). But make no mistake, this is something of an epic trip – chew it over before you start.

By car and ferry from the UK

If you intend to travel to either Mallorca or Menorca by car and ferry from the UK, you’ll need lots of time – a couple of days, maybe more. The quickest route is across the Channel via Eurotunnel (http://eurotunnel.com), followed by the long drive across France and Spain to one of the ferry ports that serve the Balearics (see page 35). To save driving time – if not overall journey time – you could also take a car ferry direct from the UK to Spain. There are three main options: Plymouth or Portsmouth to Santander, and Portsmouth to Bilbao. All are operated by Brittany Ferries (http://brittany-ferries.co.uk).

Ferries and catamarans from mainland Spain

Two main companies – Trasmediterranea and Baleària (see page 35) – operate a network of car ferry and catamaran services from three ports on the Spanish mainland (Valencia, Dénia and Barcelona) to two ports on Mallorca (Palma and Port d’Alcúdia) and two ports on Menorca (Maó and Ciutadella). Ferries from Dénia only go to Mallorca, but Valencia and Barcelona have ferries to both islands with the latter usually being the less expensive port of embarkation. Both ferry companies apply a complex fare structure depending on the time of year, length of stay, accommodation on board and any accompanying vehicle; prices peak in June, July and August.

Regarding sailing times, a regular car ferry takes 8hr to get from Barcelona to Palma, just over half that on a catamaran, and 30min or so less for Maó. Most services run all year, others have a winter break (usually Jan–March).

In all cases, advance booking is recommended and is well-nigh essential if you’re taking a vehicle or need a cabin. Tickets can also be purchased at the port of embarkation, though note that ticket offices are only open near/around ferry departure times. The best price-comparison website for ferry bookings is operated by Direct Ferries (see below).

FERRY AND CATAMARAN CONTACTS

Baleària http://balearia.com

Direct Ferries http://directferries.co.uk

Trasmediterranea http://trasmediterranea.es

Ferries and catamarans between the Balearic islands

Two main ferry companies – Trasmediterranea and Baleària (see above) – operate inter-island car ferries and catamarans. There are frequent sailings between Mallorca and Menorca, and Mallorca and Ibiza, but vessels linking Menorca and Ibiza are usually routed via Mallorca. Once again, fares are complicated, but peak in June, July and August.

Journey times are manageable: Ibiza to Palma is 3hr 30min by car ferry, about 2hr by catamaran; Maó to Palma 6hr, 3hr 30min by catamaran; and Port d’Alcúdia to Ciutadella 2hr by ferry and just 1hr by catamaran. Most services run all year, others have a winter break (usually Jan–March).

BALEARIC AGENTS AND TOUR OPERATORS

Balearic Outdoor Holidays http://balearicoutdoorholidays.com. Family-run company offering an excellent range of guided walking holidays in Menorca and Mallorca (see page 179).

Mallorcan Walking Tours (MWT) Port de Pollença, Mallorca http://mallorcanwalkingtours.com. Small and excellent, Mallorca-based company operating an outstanding range of hikes (see page 123).

Nature Trek UK http://naturetrek.co.uk. Wildlife/natural world specialist offering 8-day birdwatching tours of Mallorca.

North South Travel UK http://northsouthtravel.co.uk. Friendly, competitive travel agency, offering discounted fares worldwide. Profits are used to support projects in the developing world, especially the promotion of sustainable tourism.

Tramuntana Tours c/Sa Lluna 72, Sóller http://tramuntanatours.com. Small but highly recommended company offering guided walks and an extensive programme of adventurous activities (see page 87).

Getting around

On both Menorca and Mallorca, you’re spoiled for choice when it comes to transport. There’s a reliable bus network between all the major settlements, plus a multitude of taxis, a plethora of car rental firms and plenty of bicycles to rent. Furthermore, there’s also a couple of very useful train lines on Mallorca. Distances are small and consequently the costs of travel are very affordable, whether in terms of petrol or the price of a ticket: on Mallorca, for example, it’s only 60km from Palma on the south coast to Alcúdia on the north shore, while Menorca has only one major road, which traverses the island from Ciutadella in the west to Maó in the east, a distance of just 45km.

Hopping from one island to the other is easy and economical too, as there are regular and inexpensive inter-island flights and ferries (see pages 35 and 35) – though it’s advisable to book ahead in peak season and on public holidays. Note, however, that car hire companies will not allow you to take their vehicles from one island to another.

By bus

Both Menorca and Mallorca have an extensive network of reliable bus services. The three main towns – Palma, Maó and Ciutadella – serve as the hubs of the bus system and have fast and frequent links with most villages and resorts, both inland and on the coast, though in winter (Nov–April) as well as public holidays buses to most resorts are scaled back, and in Menorca some resorts have no services at all. Ticket prices are very reasonable: the one-way fare from Palma to Sóller, for instance, is just €3.60, and from Maó to Ciutadella €5.40. In addition, Palma has its own public transport system, with buses linking the centre with the suburbs and surrounding beach resorts (see page 71).

On all island bus services, destinations are marked on the front of the bus. Passengers enter at the front and buy tickets from the driver. Bus stops are clearly marked in bright yellow and red colours. A baffling variety of bus companies operate the various routes on Mallorca and Menorca, but their efforts are coordinated by Transports de les Illes Balears (TIB). Timetables are available at major bus stations, while most tourist offices carry local timetables. All the islands’ bus timetables – with details of routings and bus stop locations – are available online (see below).

BUS CONTACTS

Palma EMT buses http://emtpalma.es

Mallorca buses http://tib.org

Menorca buses http://menorca.tib.org

By train

Mallorca has its own narrow-gauge train network. One line, which has vintage rolling stock and is especially popular with tourists, travels through magnificent mountain scenery on its way from Palma to Sóller (see page 84); the second, a modern line geared up for local use, shuttles across the flatlands of the interior, travelling from Palma to Binissalem and Inca, where it forks, with one branch nudging south to Sineu, Petra and Manacor, the other pushing on to Muro and Sa Pobla. Plans to extend the rail network to Alcúdia and Artà have, however, been shelved.

Both these train lines have their terminus train stations adjoining Plaça Espanya in Palma (see page 70). The return fare from Palma to Sóller on the vintage line is €25, €18 one-way, whereas fares on the more modern line are trifling – it’s just €3, for instance, from Palma to Inca. The stations on the modern line also serve as starting points for buses to the surrounding towns and villages.

ADDRESSES

Addresses are usually abbreviated to a standard format. For example, c/Bellver 7 translates as Bellver Street (carrer) no. 7; and Plaça Rosari 5, 2è means the second floor at Plaça Rosari no. 5 (Plaça means square). Passeig d’es Born 15, 1–C means suite C, first floor, at no. 15; and s/n (sense número) indicates a building without a street number. In Franco’s day, most avenues and boulevards were named after Fascist heroes and, although nearly all were relabelled years ago, there’s still some confusion in remoter spots. Another source of bafflement can be house numbers: some houses carry more than one number (the by-product of half-hearted reorganizations), and on many streets the sequence is impossible to fathom.

RAIL CONTACTS

Mallorcan trains (Inca line) http://tib.org

Mallorcan trains (Sóller line) http://trendesoller.com

By car

Getting around by public transport is easy enough, but you’ll obviously have more freedom if you have your own vehicle – many of the more secluded beaches are, for example, only accessible under your own steam. Major and minor roads are very good on both islands, but country byroads are very variable. Some are very easy to negotiate, others are bumpy, dustbowl-like dirt-and-gravel tracks and the most precarious are partly surfaced roads that hairpin up the steepest of slopes and are particularly lethal after rain – the road to the Castell d’Alaró (see page 93) being a case in point. There are far more tricky byroads on Mallorca than on (flatter) Menorca. The other catch to driving is in the towns and villages, where you can find yourself driving down the narrowest of streets with barely an inch to spare on either side. Traffic is generally well behaved, but noisy, especially in Palma, where the horn is used as a recreational tool as well as an instrument of warning.

Both islands are moving fast to instal electric car charging stations – open 24/7 and at a cost of around €5 per 15 minutes. Fuel (gasolina), on the other hand, comes in three main grades. Different companies use different brand names, but generally Super Plus is 98-octane fuel, selling at about €1.72 per litre, and Super is 95-octane, selling at about €1.57 per litre; both are without lead (sense plom/sin plomo). Diesel (gasoleo or gasoil) costs about €1.46 per litre. Both Menorca and Mallorca are well supplied with petrol stations; a few are open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, though most close around 9pm or 10pm and on public holidays.

Most foreign driving licences are honoured in Spain, including all EU/EEA, UK, US, Australasian and Canadian ones. If you’re bringing your own car, you must have adequate insurance, preferably including coverage for legal costs, and it’s advisable to have an appropriate breakdown policy from your home motoring organization too.

Some rules of the road

Speed limits are posted throughout the Balearics: the maximum in built-up areas is 50km/h, sometimes 40km/h. Outside of built-up areas, it’s 90km/h or 100km/h, on motorways 110/120km/h. Speed traps are fairly frequent and if you’re stopped for any violation, the Spanish police can (and usually will) levy a stiff on-the-spot fine of up to €1500 before letting you go on your way. Most driving rules and regulations are pretty standard: seat belts are compulsory; Stop signs mean exactly that; drink-driving will land you in big trouble; zebra crossings are strictly observed; and you yield to traffic coming from the right at all junctions, whether or not there’s a give way sign. A single, unbroken white line in the middle of the road means no overtaking, even if the rule is frequently ignored, and note that drivers often sound their horns when overtaking. On major trunk roads, turnings that take vehicles across oncoming traffic are being phased out and replaced by semi-circular minor exits that lead round to traffic lights on the near side of the major road. In towns and villages, parking spaces are usually marked in blue and a single yellow line means no parking.

Car rental

On both islands, there are scores of companies offering car rental (often still rendered in Castilian as coches de alquiler) and their offices throng the islands’ resorts, larger towns and airports. All the major international players have outlets, and there are also dozens of small companies. Comprehensive lists of car rental companies are normally available from the islands’ tourist offices.

To rent a car, you must be 21 or over (and have been driving for at least a year), and you’ll probably need a credit card – though some places will accept a hefty deposit in cash and some smaller companies simply ignore all the normal regulations altogether. However, no car rental firm will allow you to transport their vehicles from one Balearic island to another. If you’re planning to spend much time driving on rougher tracks, you’ll be better off with a four-wheel drive (about thirty percent more expensive than the average car and available from larger rental agencies).

Rental charges vary enormously: out-of-season costs for a standard car can fall to as little as €25 per day with unlimited mileage; in July and August, by comparison, the same basic vehicle could set you back €100 a day if not more – though weekly prices are usually less expensive. Shopping around is really worthwhile – Affordable Car Hire (http://affordablecarhire.com) is a good place to start, with reasonable rates. That said, local rental firms often give the best deals, though you should always check the policy for the excess applied to claims, and ensure that it includes CDW (collision damage waiver) and adequate levels of financial cover. Finally, all car rental companies charge you an arm and a leg for a SatNav (think €14 a day), so if you have a portable version, bring it. Equally – and this is really annoying – some companies charge for the full tank of petrol that is in your car when you collect it (€100 or so), whether it is used or not: legend has it that disgruntled tourists now drive round and round the airport until all the fuel is consumed.

Taxis

The excellence of the islands’ bus and train services means it’s rarely necessary to take a taxi, though they are a convenient way of getting back to your hotel