Great Burgers: Mouthwatering Recipes
By Bob Sloan and Jonelle Weaver
2/5
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About this ebook
Meet Burgermeister Bob Sloan, who serves up countless crave-inducing creations of this finger-licking favorite. With a spatula and these recipes for classic, adventurous, and lighter burgers, Sloan leads the way to fun in a bun. From savory basic burger and cheeseburger recipes to spicy Louisiana-style Bayou versions to Mexican-style Picadillo fare to burgers of fresh tuna and salmon, there’s a burger here for every palate. Can’t-go-wrong recipes for delicious sides round off the menu options, including Classic Cole Slaw, Garlic Mashed Potatoes, and sinfully good fried-and-true onion rings. Armed with this handy guide of all that is burger, anyone can be the next contender for the burger hall of fame.
Bob Sloan
Bob Sloan is a professional chef, teacher, and author who runs his own catering business. He lives in New York City with his wife and two sons, both of whom love to cook.
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Great Burgers - Bob Sloan
INTRODUCTION
ABOUT THE BURGER
There are several charming stories about the birth of the burger. All of them are true. Or none. It hardly matters. Any story of the burger’s origin does little to enhance what each of us knows empirically. At some time in our lives, after taking a bite of a juicy, perfectly cooked burger, we’ve said, either aloud or to ourselves, something to the effect of, This burger is as good as anything I’ve ever tasted.
Its sublime simplicity makes the burger one of the elemental tastes-what other tastes are compared to. Burgers are also one of those foods for which we have almost wanton cravings, a kind of burger mania—I so feel like having a burger now
—that unique confluence of longing and hunger whose locus is the burger. This is not the same as wanting to dine at a certain restaurant or thinking you should probably eat fish tonight. Burger lust is not casual, but a deeper, more visceral desire, like the need to play a quick nine holes or listen to some early Miles Davis.
The burger is working class, a solid citizen—a humble and unpretentious marriage of meat and heat. In an age of flash and Baroque excess, the burger maintains its Romanesque simplicity understated, bold, and sturdy. Gussy up a burger too much and it looks out of place, like a farmer in a tux.
So then how come a cookbook with so many different burgers? Because as Mae West was wont to say, You can never get too much of a good thing.
These recipes find ways to enhance the essential burger, without seeking to replace it. Though they require more preparation than the basic burger’s simple shape and flip,
they are not overly labor intensive. I would never be so brazen as to suggest you might tire of the basic burger, but rather that you may want to try exploiting the burger as a vehicle for some killer preparations that go beyond it.
COOKING
Burgers are forgiving. When the butcher grinds the meat, fat and muscle are so intertwined that the burger becomes self-basting. All you have to do is not overcook it. For me, the perfect burger is medium-rare. When sliced in half, it is a frame of charred meat surrounding a roseate middle section that at its center is a deep claret. Decide for yourself what the perfect burger is and try to cook it the same way each time. Figure on an extra minute for each increment, i.e., 9 minutes total cooking time for medium-rare, 10 minutes for medium, 11 minutes for medium-well. Of course, all stoves and pans differ slightly, and the heat on your charcoal grill will also vary, so stay attentive. You can always cut into one of the burgers to check for doneness. Eat that one yourself, or better yet, serve it to one of the kids.
Chicken, turkey, and pork burgers must be cooked all the way through, so remove them at the moment they are done to avoid overcooking. Again, if you have to slice into one to check, it’s okay—it will be hidden soon enough under the condiments and bun.
SIZE
Is bigger better? Some aficionados covet burgers of monstrous proportions, like they are undertaking a week’s worth of eating at one sitting. They seek out burgers that start out as a large mass of meat and end up, once cooked, resembling a softball hit out of the park one too many times. Following considerable testing for this book, 6 ounces of meat per burger was determined by young and old to be the perfect size for a burger. After cooking, it still has some heft, but it’s not overblown—more like a linebacker than a defensive end. Smaller, thinner burgers usually wind up getting overcooked and merely serve to add but a hint of meat flavor to the bun and condiments. A 6-ounce burger also works well with the heat generated from a noncommercial home range.
PAN VS. GRILL
All of the recipes here were tested on a 12-inch cast-iron pan on a standard domestic gas stove. Many were also cooked on outdoor gas and charcoal grills. (I don’t recommend using the broilers on most domestic stoves; their area of intense heat is too narrow to cook 4 burgers uniformly.) There was no appreciable difference in taste, and cooking time is pretty much the same: a 6-ounce beef burger takes about 9 minutes total to cook to medium-rare on a grill over a medium-high charcoal fire or a gas grill set on high, or over high heat in a skillet. Poultry and pork burgers need to be cooked slightly longer, seafood burgers for a slightly shorter amount of time, both over medium-high heat.
THE MEAT
Chopped sirloin (around 10 percent fat) makes for really good burgers. Ground round (around 15 percent fat) makes for really great burgers. Ground chuck (20 percent fat) makes perhaps the best burgers. I used ground chuck on the outdoor grill with great success, but found it generated a bit too much fat in the pan when cooking burgers on the stove, so I went with ground round or sirloin when cooking in the skillet. Try to get your meat from a butcher shop where they grind the chopped meat fresh daily. It will cost a little more, but the freshness and integrity of the meat is worth it. If you can find organic or grass-fed beef, that’s even better. Though they are on different ends of the culinary scale, think of the meat for your burgers as you would fish-buy the freshest possible, then cook it simply, in a way that encourages the essential flavor of the meat to flourish. Avoid frozen burger patties,