Ship Modeling Simplified: Tips and Techniques for Model Construction from Kits
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About this ebook
In Ship Modeling Simplified, master model builder Frank Mastini puts to paper the methods he's developed over 30 years at the workbench to help novices take their first steps in an exciting pastime. You don't need the deftness of a surgeon or the vocabulary of an old salt to build a model. What you need is an understanding coach. Mastini leads readers from the mysteries of choosing a kit and setting up a workshop through deciphering complicated instructions and on to painting, decorating, and displaying finished models--with patience and clarity, not condescension. He reveals dozens of shortcuts: How to plank a hull "egg-shell tight"; how to build and rig complicated mast assmeblies without profanity; how to create sails that look like sails. . . . And along the way he points out things that beginners usually do wrong--beforehand, not after they've taken hammers to their projects.
Ship Modeling Simplified even includes an Italian-English dictionary of nautical terms, the key to assembling the many high-quality Italian kits on the American market.
Model building is fun, and not nearly as difficult as some experts would have you believe. Here is everything you'll ever need to get started in a hobby that will last a lifetime.
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Reviews for Ship Modeling Simplified
11 ratings1 review
- Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5If I had one book to recommend to a beginner, this would be it. While there are flaws, overall it takes a beginner from selecting a kit to hoisting the flag. The book is well illustrated with carefully drawn and labelled diagrams. The illustrations are more valuable in some cases to decipher model directions or even the book's text. There is also an English-Italian dictionary of nautical terms, plus an all-English glossary of nautical terms.As I said, there are a few flaws. My biggest complaint has to do with rigging, where I would have liked a bit more directions. Admittedly, each ship's rigging is slightly different, but rigging is such an important part of a model that I felt he gave it too little attention overall.
Book preview
Ship Modeling Simplified - Frank Mastini
Copyright © 1990 by International Marine. All rights reserved. Printed in the United States of America. Except as permitted under the United States Copyright Act of 1976, no part of this publication may be reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means, or stored in a data base or retrieval system, without the prior written permission of the publisher.
ISBN: 978-0-07-181858-2
MHID: 0-07-181858-8
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DEDICATION
To my wife Lucy for her countless hours of support: Without her help this book never would have been completed. And to the memory of Barney Rehder, my teacher, my inspiration, and my dear friend.
CONTENTS
Introduction
PART I Setting Up Shop
Selecting A Kit
Making Your Choice
What to Look for in A Model
Building A Workplace
PART II Building the Hull
Sequence for Building the Hull
Assembling Bulkhead-on-Keel Hulls
Gunports
Planking the Hull and Deck
Planking the Hull — The First Layer
Handling Items on Deck
Setting the Hull on the Display Base
PART III Masting and Rigging
Getting Started
Masting and Rigging Sequence
Building Masts
Rigging the Spars
Stepping the Masts and Bowsprit
Rigging it All to the Hull
PART IV Finishing Her Up
Boats, Anchors, Paint, and Flags
Italian-English Dictionary
Useful Terms
Suggested Reading List
Index
INTRODUCTION
I’ve written this book to bring the time-honored craft of building model ships to people who have been smitten — but perhaps intimidated — by the idea of building, say, a fully rigged 18th century man o’war. This book’s simple methods were honed by my 25 years at the workbench, and by years of helping new modelers grapple with their first projects. These methods will make it possible for an inexperienced person to build a model of which he can be proud.
Back in the 1800s Darcy Lever wrote in his bountifully illustrated guide for novice British midshipmen, The Young Sea Officer’s Sheet Anchor, A mere verbal explanation often perplexes the mind, for no one but a seaman can clearly comprehend it; and he is not the object for whom such aid is intended.
Mr. Lever’s thoughts, though almost 200 years old, are still applicable. In this book you’ll find an abundance of illustrations to help you along.
A ship model is the product of a builder’s efforts and perseverance. It will take you many demanding hours to finish a model. During this time you’ll be washed with waves of conflicting emotions, rising and falling with each success or failure. All this will be a part of an experience that will be yours alone: Your first model may not be a showpiece, but I promise you from personal experience that it will be the one you never give away.
Your most important tool for success will be dedication, which, according to the American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language, is committing one’s self to a particular course of thought or action.
Add some enthusiasm and a positive mental attitude, and you’ll have a formidable edge when you sit down to tackle your first model.
You’ll make mistakes, sometimes big ones; at times you’ll be confused. You must believe that you can overcome these setbacks, correct them, and move on. This book will be there with advice and encouragement when you need it.
We’ll move step by step through the often bewildering array of alternatives that an aspiring modeler faces. You’ll find instructions on tools — from the simplest to the most complicated — and how to use them. You’ll learn the best way to set up a workshop, what to look for in kits, and what to expect when you open them. I’ll take you through the logical steps of building a complicated ship model, helping you avoid the pitfalls that trap most beginners.
You’ll also find a dictionary of technical nautical terms translated from Italian to English that will allow you to understand the instructions and legends in Italian-made kits, which are marketed in abundance. A glossary of nautical terms defines every part of a ship’s anatomy.
All the information you need is right here; now it’s up to you to choose the right model. Just remember this: The hours you’ll spend building the model will be scant compared with the hours you’ll spend showing it off. The pride you’ll gain will more than overshadow the frustrations and struggles of building it. The skills you pick up along the way will be yours forever and will boost your confidence when you start your next model.
A ship model should be enjoyed by every member of your family. If you’re married, make your wife or husband part of your plans and dreams — possibly a partner. If you have children, allow them to participate in some aspect of your new hobby. Making it a family hobby promotes togetherness and keeps the art of ship model building alive for another generation. Life goes on — so why not ship model building too?
Let me prove that you too can build a beautiful ship model.
— Frank Mastini
PART I
Setting Up Shop
SELECTING A KIT
Take a look at the models on display at your local hobby shop. Manufacturers worldwide have produced a huge variety of kits, and that’s a good sign. You’ll have no shortage of new projects to take on as you gain experience. But where do you start?
An enthusiastic beginner looking for his first model is confronted with a fascinating, but very confusing, array of choices. Although all kits provide certain basic materials, there are significant differences in type and quality. Here are some things to keep in mind when making a selection.
MAKING YOUR CHOICE
Choose a model that catches your eye, but heed the limits facing a first-timer. Your decision will have a lot to do with the mood you are in and the pleasure you get from thinking about how the finished model will look. Realistically, though, as when choosing a new car, you should consider several factors before making the final decision. How much money do you want to spend? How much experience do you have? What kind of display space will be available for the finished model? What kind of ship attracts you? Are the kits that interest you of good quality? How much time can you spend at the workbench?
Sound too involved? Well, it’s not if you’re sensible. Think simple
for your first effort. Though you’re looking for a challenge, you’re not looking for intense frustration.
YOUR ABILITY
I have known many novices to buy kits of the magnitude of the Sovereign of the Seas, San Felipe, or Amerigo Vespucci — ships with multiple decks, intricate ornamentation, and complicated rigging plans. They bought them, but they never finished them. What I saw instead was frustration, failure, and dejection — and, of course, the abandonment of what could have been a happy and successful pastime.
Choose a fairly small, simple, attractive but complete model, one that has a bit of everything found in ships. Look for a model with one deck, one or two masts and simple rigging. A good example would be a Baltimore Clipper from around the time of the War of 1812, or a fishing schooner such as Bluenose II. Such a vessel will introduce the first-timer to the art of building the hull (especially the plank-on-bulkhead type). You’ll plank decks and build deck fixtures (gratings, pumps, binnacles, fife rails and pin rails, winches, capstans, ladders). If you choose a Baltimore Clipper you’ll learn how to cut gunports and how to assemble and rig guns in place. You’ll move on to building and rigging simple spars and masts. Such a model, in other words, will be sufficiently complex to teach you many basic skills, but not so much so that you never receive the satisfaction of successfully completing it.
Some good kits that are simple enough for beginners include Lynx, Gladis, and Dallas by Pan Art; Bluenose II, Harvey, and Mare Nostrum by Artesania Latina; Flying Fish by Corel; America by Mamoli; and Dandy II by Dikar.
PHOTO 1. A beginner’s nightmare. The stern ornamentation, the sheer of the hull, and the multiple gun decks of the San Felipe spell disaster for a first-time builder.
THE COST
It’s always a good idea to shop around before actually purchasing a kit: There’s a wide range of prices out there reflecting quality, size, and production costs. Prices vary from manufacturer to manufacturer for the same ship. For instance, four or five manufacturers offer kits of the Constitution at four or five different prices. Throw in the vast differences among hobby retailers and you can see the need for comparison shopping.
My advice for a modeler looking for his first project: Don’t spend more than $150.
When you get to the hobby shop, bring with you all these considerations as well as your checkbook or charge card. Leave some of your enthusiasm at home where it will be waiting for you when you arrive with your purchase. A cool, knowledgeable shopper who knows what he wants is the most likely to get it.
PHOTO 2. The simple hull line and rigging plan of the schooner Bluenose II allow a beginner to learn and refine basic planking and rigging skills. The exposed section shows the first layer of planking.
SCALE
Kits come in a number of scales — a way of comparing the size of the model with the size of the real ship. Scale will become more important as you refine your modeling skills. For now it’s not something to worry a great deal about. Stick to the types of models I’ve recommended and go with whatever scale the manufacturer has decided to use.
Still, it’s important to understand what scale is. Scale is expressed as a ratio: maybe 1/50 or 1:25 or 1/96. What does that mean?
Say we’re talking about a model in which 1/4 inch represents one foot on the full-size ship. The scale might be called a 1/4-inch scale or, more likely, a 1:48 scale (1 foot — that’s 12 inches — divided by 1/4 inch equals 48); they’re both the same. In 1:48 scale the 143-foot Bluenose II would be 35 1/2 inches long.
But there are other scales — and the matter is complicated further by European kits, which use ratios expressed in metric dimensions. Let’s save ourselves some headaches and compare three common scales.
• A 1:96 scale is similar to a 1/8-inch American scale: one foot on the full-size ship is represented by 1/8 inch or about 3 mm. (A three-foot-high bulwark on the full-size ship would be 3/8 inch or 9 mm on your model.)
• A 1:75 metric scale is similar though not equivalent to a 3/16-inch American scale: one foot on the full-size ship is represented by 3/16 inch or 4.5 mm. (A three-foot high bulwark on the full-size ship would be 9/16 inch or 13.5 mm on your model.)
• A 1:48 scale is equivalent to a 1/4-inch American scale: one foot on the full-size ship is represented by 1/4 inch or about 6 mm. (A three-foot-high bulwark on the full-size ship would be 3/4 inch or 18 mm on your model.)
Don’t think in abstract terms; apply the scales to real-life situations and your experience will be painless.
METRIC VS. INCHES. This brings up another mildly troublesome problem. When you’re working with a European kit do you try to convert everything to inches? If you want to make extra work for yourself go ahead. If you’ve purchased a European kit, think metric; if you have an American kit, think inches and feet.