Well, Shut My Mouth!: The Sweet Potatoes Restaurant Cookbook
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About this ebook
Well, Shut My Mouth! The Sweet Potatoes Restaurant Cookbook is recipes—recipes from the restaurant, recipes from the families of chef Stephanie Tyson and co-owner Vivian Joiner, recipes that are Southern, plain and simple. In creating the recipes for Sweet Potatoes, Tyson used all of her influences Geechee flavor from Joiner’s father, who was from the Hilton Head area of South Carolina; her mother’s working-woman “out of the can and into the pan” shortcuts; and her training in culinary arts at Baltimore International College and her later work in South Carolina, the Florida Keys, Arizona, and Maryland. Just the names of the recipes in this book are enough to whet one’s appetite: Pimento Cheese Fondue; Sweet Potato, Corn, and Country Ham Risotto; Gullah Shrimp and Crab Pilau; Slow Cooker Chocolate Stout Pot Roast; Down-Home ’Tata Salad; Molasses Dijon Dressing; Sweet Potato Bread Pudding with Pecan Crunch Topping; and many others. Most recipes include a bit of flavorful commentary from the chef, such as this tip for Spicy Greens: “If you are faint of heart (burn), eliminate the red pepper altogether.” Or the brief definition that introduces Crackling Cornbread: “Cracklings are deep-fried crispy skins of various animals—in this case, pork.” Well, Shut My Mouth! is also the history of the two women who started a locally and nationally acclaimed restaurant (Our State, Southern Living, New York Times). As Tyson says in her introduction, “Every part of me is a part of Sweet Potatoes.” In Well, Shut My Mouth! she shares a culinary experience that has been a favorite of Winston-Salem natives and visitors for years. Now, patrons have the tools to re-create the Sweet Potatoes dining experience in their own homes.
Stephanie L. Tyson (right) and her partner and co-owner, Vivian Joiner (left), opened Sweet Potatoes in the Downtown Arts District of Winston-Salem in 2004. Both live in Winston-Salem, North Carolina.
“Everything about this book is correct except the title. Anyone with a taste bud in their mouth should follow these recipes and open their mouth.” - Maya Angelou
Stephanie L. Tyson
Stephanie L. Tyson (right) and her partner and co-owner, Vivian Joiner (left), opened Sweet Potatoes in the Downtown Arts District of Winston-Salem in 2004. Both live in Winston-Salem, North Carolina.
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Book preview
Well, Shut My Mouth! - Stephanie L. Tyson
Introduction
Our Story
How do you define Sweet Potatoes?
A super food filled with a day’s supply of beta carotene, lots of Vitamin C, and potassium (I’m not sure it still has all that if you add sugar, butter, and eggs)
A really cool restaurant in Winston-Salem, North Carolina, that captures the flavors of the South with uptown funk and down-home soul to the beat of Ella and Miles
A place that employs a number of people trying to get back into the work force after making some mistakes and paying their dues—people who want and need to earn a living
A part of Winston-Salem and its growing arts community, with local artists adorning its walls, where any number of celebrities and noncelebrities can get their feed on
Vivián Joiner and me
All of the above
The name Sweet Potatoes just kind of came about. I like sweet potatoes. They’re very versatile. I wrote the menu, and, looking over it, I said, That’s got a lot of sweet potatoes in it.
I didn’t realize it. So I said, Oh, we’ll call it Sweet Potatoes! That way, it can be like a running gag.
There’s a folk-art painting that a woman, Currie Williams, did that’s hanging at the wait station in the very back of the restaurant. Three weeks after we opened, we had our grand opening. Somewhere between the time we opened and the grand opening, she did this painting of us. I have a rolling pin in my hand, and it’s going off the canvas. And the painting shows Vivián’s hand, and she’s holding a dollar bill.
So she had this painting in her studio, which was right across the street from us in a one-story building. She was going to present it to us. And somebody who had lunch at Sweet Potatoes walked across the street, went into the shop, and said, Oh, that’s Sweet Potatoes. I love that. How much is it?
And she said, Fifty dollars.
And the lady said, If you add two hundred dollars to that, I’ll buy it.
And so what does a starving artist do? She added two hundred dollars to the price, and the woman bought the painting. And in less than a week, she did another painting. We never saw the first one, but she told us, I don’t think this is as good as the first one.
So we have the second painting. She’s known as the Apple Lady.
All her paintings have an apple somewhere in them.
That painting is where we got the name of the restaurant. We had already decided we weren’t going to have a big menu, so we had no space to tell our story. We wanted it at least to be Sweet Potatoes—a restaurant.
We didn’t want it to be confused with a diner or a cafeteria, because when black people open a restaurant in the South, some folks assume it’s going to be a cafeteria. A restaurant
is in lowercase because it only states the obvious. We’re just a restaurant. But there was also a restaurant in Hickory, North Carolina, called Sweet Potatoes, and it had already been trademarked, so we needed to change the name. That restaurant’s closed now. I was in the wait station, and we were talking about needing to change the name. On the painting, it says, Mmm Sweet Potato—Shut My Mouth,
so we included Well shut my mouth!!
in our trademark—Sweet Potatoes (well shut my mouth!!) a restaurant™.
Vivián and Stephanie as painted by
Currie Williams, the Apple Lady.
This book is recipes. Recipes from the restaurant, from my grandmother, from great-aunts, from Vivián’s mother and aunts and uncles. Recipes that are just Southern, plain and simple.
This book is about cooking and eating.
Although I’m as Southern as eating dirt, I have had the opportunity to see and experience how some of the rest of the world lives. Sweet Potatoes, and hopefully this book, are a reflection of that. Vivián is from Washington, D.C., and has Southern sensibilities. Her father is from the Hilton Head area of South Carolina, so a few of our recipes have a Geechee flavor. My grandmother cooked for several white families, as well as her own family. I learned from her how to season food. My mother was part of the generation of increasingly liberated working women who had to come up with shortcuts to feeding the family—out of the can and into the pan.
I subsequently went to culinary school to pay a lot of money to learn that the thing that makes gravy thick is called a roux. In creating the recipes for Sweet Potatoes, I use all of those connections. Every part of me is a part of Sweet Potatoes.
The interesting thing about being the chef and co-owner of a fairly successful, albeit small, restaurant is that someone will invariably suggest you write a cookbook. My thinking on that subject was that there are already a lot of cookbooks. I know. I buy them all the time. I have hundreds of them. The best ones are those that are dog-eared and stained with flour and tomato sauce or whatever ingredients you put together for last night’s dinner. My other thoughts were that I don’t have anything new to say, and that I’m kind of busy, being the chef and co-owner of a fairly successful restaurant.
But something changed my mind. When I was growing up in Winston-Salem, my grandmother Ora Porter, who was the best cook I knew, gave me hope. She did not read or write well. As with so many grandmothers, everything she cooked was a pinch of this and a pinch of that. Her four older sisters—Ada, Lizzie, Adele, and Annie—were the same. But they fed me. And I have not forgotten. It was not easy watching the people you love and admire subjugate themselves for you. Some marched or did the sit-ins and made the six o’clock news. Then there was everyone else. They didn’t invent the struggle, they just quietly went through it. That should be noted by someone every now and