Sadie's Style

By Frankie Kaylor

She crossed an ocean for a job ... and found true love and happiness.

In 1893, Sadie Brooks left England and her family behind to pursue a career as a fashion designer in America. On the ship, Sadie meets Mary and Beth, two sisters returning home to New York. The three girls become friends and the sisters invite Sadie to stay with them until she finds a job. She had corresponded with Mr. Ebenezer Butterick, the founder and head of The Butterick Company, for almost ten years. He invited her to visit him if she ever came to New York. Sadie meets with Mr. Butterick and shows him her sketches. He offers her a job in the design department. On her first day of work the Head Designer, Bessie Whalen, treats Sadie badly and tells her she must stay and clean the office that evening. Mr. Butterick finds out, fires Bessie and promotes Sadie.
Mary and Beth have a party for Sadie to celebrate her new job. She works closely with the boss, Eben (Mr. Butterick) and they have a unique, friendly rapport at work. Eben brings in a photographer, Peter McAvoy, to photograph Sadie for the cover of the magazine. Peter is handsome, charming and quite smitten with Sadie. Eben leaves Sadie in charge of the company when his grown daughter becomes very ill. Sadie must deal with Bessie who wants her job back, Peter who wants to go out with her, and her own feelings. When her life is threatened will she be able to deal with that, too?

• Language: English
• Publisher: BookBaby
• Release date: Jul 27, 2016
• ISBN: 9781483577296

Book preview

Celebration

Meeting Mr. Butterick

Sadie arrived early for her meeting with Mr. Ebenezer Butterick.  She stood in front of the building, taking in all of the sights and sounds.  People seemed to be coming toward her from every direction, moving quickly as if there was something very important they must do.  Sadie decided she must move quickly, too, and made a dash for the main door.

She found herself in a huge open lobby with a reception desk about fifteen steps inside the building and five people behind it.  As she walked forward she noticed to her left was a large waiting area with seats.  Her family’s house could fit inside the waiting area, she thought.  Thousands of people must work in this building and she felt very tiny as she approached the desk. 

May I help you? a kind faced older woman asked.

Yes, please, Sadie replied.  I have an invitation from Mr. Ebenezer Butterick to visit him here.  My name is Sadie Brooks from Leicester, England.

Just one moment, Miss Brooks, I’ll check with Mr. Butterick to see if he can meet with you right now, the woman said.  She walked to a small stairway and disappeared.  Sadie waited by the reception desk standing straight and looking very professional.  She had chosen her outfit carefully, wanting to make a good first impression and to show him she was a student of fashion. This morning Helen helped style her brunette hair into a Gibson girl style, so her hair was wrapped around her head and looked full and lovely.  She had carefully placed a hat on top and pinned it so it would not fall off.  Her gray-green eyes were wide and alert.  She was 23 and quite tall at five feet seven inches but with feminine curves.  Her clothing was styled with such attention to detail and little touches of lace so as to be feminine yet business like, with her tiny waist accented by a leather belt and the skirt full over her hips falling almost to the floor.  She had added a jacket of blue velvet to match the blue flowers in the material of her blouse.  Her boots were the latest fashion in England with a short heel and buttons all along the side down to her toes.

Miss Brooks?  The woman asked as she approached Sadie.  Sadie nodded.  Mr. Butterick would be pleased to meet with you.  Please follow me, she said and took Sadie to meet her mentor.   

Before her stood a tall man whose shoulders were hunched from years of bending over patterns and doing all of the functions necessary to build this huge business.  His hair was white, his face was kind and his green eyes still sparkled. Sadie knew he had to be at least sixty but he was in good health.  He was dressed in a gray suit and his necktie was slightly loosened.  He smiled and said, I knew you would come to America and meet me someday!  I enjoyed your letters over the years and you always had such great ideas for me.  Thank you!  It’s a pleasure to finally meet you. 

I’m so honored to meet you, Mr. Butterick! said Sadie at last.  I’ve dreamed about this day but now I find it hard to speak.  I’m so amazed by all you’ve done.  Thank you so much for meeting me.

I hope you have time to visit with me, he said quietly.  I’d love to show you around the building and our operation.  But first, please sit down and we can talk.  Sadie sank gratefully into the chair in front of his desk and Mr. Butterick sat in the chair next to her.  As they chatted Sadie relaxed and it was like talking with an old friend she had not seen in years.  He wanted to know about her trip to America and she told him all about her travels and her new friends, Mary and Beth.  She met them on the ship and they insisted she stay with them until she got a job.  Then he asked about her family back in Leicester and she told him about her parents and seven siblings.  My father was concerned about me travelling alone but I told him it’s 1893, after all, and since he insisted that I save enough for first class, I would be safe.

I’m glad you were able to make good friends during your travels, Mr. Butterick said.

She told him, I was so excited about getting clients who wanted me to design and make clothing for them because I knew I could make more money doing that instead of working in the fabric store.  I’d be able to make the trip sooner. 

He smiled and asked if she was ready to see the operational side of the business.  I’d love to but I don’t want to keep you from your work, she said.  He assured her it wasn’t a problem and guided her out of his office and into a large room with women sitting at desks. 

This is the staff I have now to help with the correspondence.  When you and I started to correspond, he chuckled, I was the only one answering the letters.  Now it takes this room full of people to answer the over 5,000 letters we receive each week. 

They went down a hallway and into a room with a very large printing press used for the Delineator publication.  This general interest magazine for women had originally been meant for showing the newest Butterick patterns but had quickly grown to include other things of interest to women.  It included tips for sewing and cleaning, knitting and crochet patterns, hairstyles and general information about fashion trends as well as advertisements for the latest patterns. 

I’ve enjoyed the magazine immensely, said Sadie softly.  I hope my mother and sisters will enjoy it now.  I’ll sign up for it once I know my address in New York.

Mr. Butterick picked up a copy of the latest issue and gave it to Sadie.  Please take this one for now, he said.  We’ve just finished mailing them out and I don’t want you to miss an issue.  Sadie thanked him and put it inside her tote bag so she wouldn’t lose it. 

They walked through the entire building and he showed her all of the different parts of the business.  Finally, he looked at her and said, Well, you have now seen our entire operation.  I’m curious to hear your thoughts about it.

Sadie replied, I found it an amazing process.  It is far more than I imagined, even.  You must be so proud of what you’ve accomplished.

To be honest, Sadie, I’m tired.  I’m an old man, alone since my wife died years ago, he said.  I’ve been considering retirement.  It’s been my life’s work but now it’s time for your generation to carry on and improve the business.  I’m happy to deal with the letters but we need many people to respond to the volume of correspondence.  I still consider it to be the very foundation of the company and very important for us to keep in touch with those who write to us.  I hope the company will never lose sight of that.  Sadie looked at him and could sense his sincerity and her heart went out to him. 

Is there anything I could do for you, Mr. Butterick? asked Sadie. 

Well, perhaps, he responded, but first tell me what you plan to do now you’re in America.  Sadie explained she was hoping to go to work in fashion design. 

If I’m good enough, she laughed, I’ll apply to be a designer for Butterick.   

I was hoping you might consider that, Mr. Butterick replied seriously now.  He looked down at her and said, Perhaps we can work something out today.  I know the outfit you have on is one of your own creations, and I’m already impressed with your talent.  Did you bring any drawings with you, by any chance?

Yes, but … I didn’t expect you to be the one to look at them.  I thought perhaps you would allow me to show one of your assistants …, her voice trailed off.

My dear Sadie, he said, of course I’d like to see them.  I’m not an expert of design, but I’ve seen enough to know when someone has real talent and I believe you are very gifted.  Now, let me look at your drawings to see if they convey what you obviously can do with a sewing machine.

She handed him her sketch pad and he looked at her drawings intently.  Yes, he mumbled.  Quite good, he said.  Very interesting ideas and you draw well.  I’m thrilled.

Sadie stared at him and her mouth opened but nothing came out.  He smiled and held out his hand to her.  Thank you, he said.  You’ve inspired me to stay with the business for a while longer.  I’d like to offer you a job as a designer.  I want you to work for us right away and I must be the first person to see your drawings – before anyone else in the company.

How can I ever thank you? Sadie said, squeezing his hand. 

You’re like the daughter I never had, he answered. My daughter, Mary, wants nothing to do with sewing and the business.  I’d like you to work with the design team. 

Sadie was so overwhelmed she thought she would faint but somehow she mustered her energy and stood up.  You’re the most generous and wonderful person I’ve ever met, she said. I won’t let you down, I promise!  She hugged her friend.  This is much more than I could’ve ever dreamed of.

Mr. Butterick smiled at Sadie and stated, I think the company’s getting the better part of this bargain.  I’m pleased you’ll consider the offer.  I want you to think about it over lunch and come back to let me know your answer.  I can see you in charge of the design team in the future and who knows where you’ll go from there. 

His faith in her was incredible and Sadie could hardly believe he was bestowing such high praise on her.  Here she is, in America, meeting this wonderful, self-made man in the amazing world headquarters of his company and he’s making her feel like a queen.  She felt unworthy but she knew this was too good to pass up; however, he obviously wanted her to think it over so she said she’d return after lunch.  She was already thinking about where she should look for an apartment and how long her savings would last.  Her mind was racing and she felt as if she could hardly breathe. 

Mr. Butterick went to the door of his office and asked one of the women to show Sadie to the lobby.  As Sadie passed him, she gave him a quick hug and kissed his cheek.  He watched her go, thinking how much good she could do for the company. 

Sadie spent time thinking about what she needed to make weekly.  She knew she needed to make enough money to get an apartment or to at least rent a room in a house.  She wanted to find a place close to the sisters.  She was determined not to live in the tenements and they were the lowest priced option at between 3 and 15 dollars a month.  She discovered it would cost her at least 10 cents per day for breakfast, 25 cents for lunch and 35 cents for dinner at the local cafeterias.  Of course, if she wanted to eat any place nicer, it would cost more.  It was expensive to live in New York City but there was nowhere else she could live and work at Butterick.  She needed to make sure she was someplace safe.  Sadie had faith in Mr. Butterick and knew he would want the best for her but she didn’t know if he was aware of the cost to live in the city.  She was sure he’d bought a house when he first moved to New York from Sterling, Massachusetts but that was back in 1864.  The city had grown a lot and parts of it were not a proper place for a single woman to live.  So much to think about!!

Sadie looked up at the clock in the reception area. She ate the lunch Helen had packed for her and then it was time to go and talk with Mr. Butterick.  She had a pretty good idea of what she would need for money and hoped he would offer her enough.  This job was so important to her and why she’d come to America.   

He said, I hope you’ve considered carefully whether or not you want to work here.

Oh, yes, she replied quickly.  It’s a dream come true.

Well, let’s discuss the particulars of the job and you can ask me any questions you may have, said Mr. Butterick.  They sat in his office and he explained she would work from 8 am to 6 pm the same as the other employees.  She’d have an hour for lunch and he mentioned the cafeteria and said they offered meals at a reduced rate for people working there.  He would start her out as a designer and explained they already had a head designer and three other designers on the team.  He stated she would have her own line of fashions to design for working women and women who required a more stylish type of clothing.  As he explained it, the clothing I expect you to design is what I expect to see you wearing and creating for yourself.  You have a real sense of style and what you see as ‘professional’ wear, he explained.  I think it’s something we have not provided in the past for our customers and I believe there’s a need for it.  I feel you can help our customers who are progressive enough to need more stylish fashions.

Sadie blushed at such high praise.  I would certainly love to, she answered.  Have you discussed this with the head designer? she asked.

I’ll do that this afternoon, if you agree to take the position, he said, nodding his head. I’ll make sure she understands why I’m adding you as a designer.  However, you’ll have a different mission than the others because you’ll be creating your own line of patterns.  I thought we’d call it ‘Sadie’s Style’ and you’ll write articles for the magazine about your designs.  We’ll come out with new fashions in the Fall and again in the Spring.  What do you think?

I’m totally overwhelmed! exclaimed Sadie.  Are you sure?  I’m willing to start out as part of the team and add my designs to what the team is doing.

No, Sadie, Mr. Butterick replied.  I don’t want to lose you.  I know what you’re capable of.  I want you to start with this – we need this kind of specialty designing and you’re the one to make it work for us.  I know you’ll be extremely successful and it will help the company, too.  I expect you to be leading the design department soon and someday you could be in charge of the whole company.  But I’m getting ahead of myself.  The staff we have can continue to design for those who aren’t ready for your fashions.  I’m going to pay you a salary of $25.00 per week to start working for us.  I’ll also give you $5.00 per week toward your purchase of material to make the sample pieces once your design is approved.  They’ll be used in the advertisements for the clothing line and you’ll be a walking advertisement by wearing the samples.  I think this will work out well.  Do you think that’s fair to start?

That’s more than fair, sir, stammered Sadie.  I’m so honored to take the position.  I don’t want to ever disappoint you!

Sadie, he said quietly, I know you won’t disappoint me and I must be honest – it’s a business decision.  I admire you and you have a very professional sense of style that will take this company far.  This isn’t a handout or a personal favor.  You deserve this based upon your hard work and commitment, which is obvious to me.

Thank you so much, she replied. 

There are two other things we need to discuss, he stated matter-of-factly.  He asked her if she had already found a place to live and she explained she’d made several inquiries but had not done anything because she didn’t know what she’d be paid. I know of several nice hotels where people live, he began, And I’ll be glad to write a letter of recommendation for you, if you want.  I think I know you well enough, though, to think you’d prefer to get a room in a home closer to where your friends live.  I think it would be a better option for you as well.  Please let me know if there’s anything you need.  If you need money for the rent, I’ll arrange for you to receive a check early.  You must be anxious to have a place of your own.  I hope you’ll find the salary sufficient so you can begin saving money to purchase a home of your own.

Yes, I believe I’ll be able to, Sadie replied gratefully.  Thank you for your kindness and belief in me.

He smiled at her and said, The last thing is that you’re to show me your drawings first and discuss any new designs with me.  Once we’ve gone over them, you may discuss them with the team if you wish.  I’m very serious, Sadie.  Will you do this for me?

Of course, Mr. Butterick, you’re the first to hear my ideas and see my designs.  I understand and I’m happy to have your opinion.  It makes me feel better about accepting this huge responsibility. I’m so happy to work for you! Sadie replied.  I do have one question, however.

What is it? he asked.

Do you mind if I design and sew for private customers when I’m not working for Butterick? she asked.  I don’t want to have a lot of private customers, she explained, but I’d like to design and sew a few things for my friends, Mary and Beth, and perhaps for a few of their friends, if they ask.

I don’t see why not, said Mr. Butterick thoughtfully, as long as it doesn’t interfere with your work here.  Perhaps you could use the basic concept of the design later for us, if your customer doesn’t mind.

Thank you, replied Sadie, smiling, because I promised the sisters I’d design their bridal gowns and I’d hate to go back on my word.

He nodded his acknowledgement but was deep in thought.

Well, I believe we’ve covered everything.  Please take an hour while I meet with the Head Designer.  We can meet here at 2 o’clock, said Mr. Butterick.

Sadie looked at the clock in amazement.  It was 12:45 already but to her it had only been a few minutes.  She turned at the doorway and said, Thank you, my dear friend!  I can’t believe how quickly the time passes when we’re together.

Sadie checked her satchel for her latest drawings, including the dresses she was working on for Mary and Beth as a gift to them for having the party.  She hadn’t told the sisters about her designs but she planned to pick up the material while she was in the city today.  She wanted to have the dresses ready by early Friday so they could try them on.  Sadie knew them fairly well by now and felt confident she’d designed them for each one’s personality and taste.  It would be important to choose the right fabric. 

Sadie turned left upon exiting the building and walked down Broadway passing several small boutique shops and bookstores.  She noticed the sign for A.T. Stewart Dry Goods Store and entered the building.  Once inside she was amazed by the huge space, all of the fabric and thought this must be heaven.  There was a glorious double staircase with fancy iron railings in the center of the building leading to the offices upstairs.  This was certainly the largest fabric store she’d ever seen.  She walked up and down several aisles, touching a few pieces of fabric, before choosing one.  This will be perfect for Mary, she thought. Mary is petite, with small bones and long golden hair.  Only a year younger than Sadie, she had an air of refinement and was so dainty and fragile. It was a subtly embossed but elegant burgundy fabric and she could picture her friend in the dress she had designed for her.  She motioned to the clerk who came right over.  I’d like four yards of this material, please, she said, oh, and six yards of this one.  She’d just discovered a lovely, bright blue material for Beth.  Beth, she thought, looks sturdier and more like me than Mary.  She was only nineteen but quick of wit and quieter than her sister. How much will that cost, please, before you cut it? she asked.  It’s a bit more than I’d have paid in Leicester, she thought, but they never had anything like this fabric.  Perfect, she responded to the clerk.  Sadie left the store with the fabric in her satchel, very pleased with her purchase.  She couldn’t wait to show her designs and fabrics to Mr. Butterick. 

She walked to the reception desk and said to the older woman who’d first directed her to Mr. Butterick’s office, I’m supposed to meet Mr. Butterick in his office at 2 o’clock.  Do you know if he’s returned yet?

I’m not sure, Miss Brooks, but you may go up there now if you’d like, I know it’ll be okay with him if you wait there, she said with a smile.

Thank you, I will, replied Sadie, smiling back.  Sadie felt more relaxed as she entered the stairway.  She turned and looked in the office and realized she was the first one there.  She stepped in and sat in the chair she’d left earlier.  The office was actually quite neat for a man who was as busy as Mr. Butterick, she thought. 

She heard someone coming down the hall.  A woman appeared, her black hair loosely tied back and her full figure barely fitting into her dress, a cream colored shirtwaist with a large black belt covering the waist area.  Her lipstick was a bright red, freshly applied, which made her appear almost frightening. 

You must be Sadie, she said loudly.  My name is Bessie Whalen, and I’m the Head Designer.  You work for me.

Sadie stood up and smiled at her, saying, I’m pleased to meet you!

Come with me, said Bessie, gruffly, I’ll show you around the design area and give you your first assignment.  She turned around expecting Sadie to follow her.

Sadie said, But Miss Whalen, I’m supposed to meet Mr. Butterick here.

Bessie whirled around, looking angry and said, He told me to come and get you.  You work for me.  Do not come back and bother Mr. Butterick anymore.  He’s very busy and I’m in charge of your work.  Bring your things and follow me, she barked at Sadie.

Sadie wanted to wait but didn’t want to upset her boss any more than she already had so she followed her as quickly as possible.  She wondered if she’d offended Mr. Butterick in some way, or if he’d asked Bessie to make sure she didn’t come back to his office again.  Her mind was spinning and her stomach hurt.  Her eyes burned as she fought back tears.  Oh my Goodness, she thought, I must’ve been mistaken that he wanted me to share my work with him.  How can I ever face him again?  But, according to my boss, I’ll probably never see him again!  She tried to push all thoughts away and concentrate on following this strange woman.  The head of the design team turned at the doorway which read Design Studio.  Sadie turned into the same doorway and found Bessie in the middle of several desks lined up against one wall.  She pointed at the fourth desk and said, This’ll be your desk.  Leave your things here.  Sadie put her bag with the fabric and her personal things on the seat. They went into the other room where the rest of the team was gathered. 

Bessie introduced her to the others, This is Sadie Brooks, my new apprentice, and each one introduced themselves, beginning with the older gentleman with kind eyes who said his name was David, then a young chap with red hair and a big grin who said, Hi, just call me Red, and finally a mousy blonde woman slightly older than Sadie, whose name was Theresa.  Sadie smiled at all of them.  Bessie motioned for her to sit down and there was a brief meeting in which Bessie laid out her plans for the upcoming Fall line.  She outlined a few brief changes to the designs in the Spring fashions but did not talk about any new styles.  She had very little creativity and didn’t inspire Sadie.  The others were quiet as they waited for Bessie to finish. 

Okay, said Bessie, I’ll expect your first sketches for our meeting next week.  That means four or five preliminary sketches on Tuesday morning at 10 am.  Bessie walked over to her desk behind the divider. 

David and Red had the first two desks, then Theresa and Sadie.  No one sat in the last desk. At Ieast I have a lamp, thought Sadie.  David came over to Sadie and said quietly, Don’t worry, we’ll help you.

Sadie looked up and smiled.  Thank you, she said.

Just look through the latest issue of the Delineator, our fashion magazine, he told Sadie.  We always start there and try to find ways to update the patterns.  Don’t try to sketch anything today.  Try to relax.  Where are you from?

I just arrived from England, replied Sadie in a quiet voice.  I’m familiar with the magazine.  I’ve been a subscriber for years.

That’s good.  It should make it easier for you, said David reassuringly.  His voice dropped to a whisper and he said, Just follow Miss Whalen’s directions and you’ll be fine.  There’s a rumor she may not be here for very long and … suddenly David swung around and sat down at his desk and opened his Delineator magazine.

Sadie, come here, Miss Whalen’s voice demanded from the other room.  Sadie moved quietly but quickly into the meeting room and over to her boss’s desk.  This is the beginning of the new season.  I’ve chosen a few pieces I’d like you to work on for next week’s meeting.  I want you to think about a housedress for women working at home.  It’ll need to have an apron that can be cleaned separately.  The second piece is a shirt for men having to do manual labor, like farmers or men working in factories.  Both should be suitable for low-cost fabrics.  Do you have any questions?

No, ma’am, not right now, replied Sadie.

Good, replied Miss Whalen.  She looked at Sadie over her reading glasses and said, I want you to stay and clean the office after the others leave today.  It could use a good dusting and mopping.  That’s all. 

Sadie returned to her desk and looked at no one.  Miss Whalen made it clear by her choices that she considered Sadie a beginner, with no talent and very little chance she would ever have her own line of clothing.  Her head was bowed and she stared at the magazine without seeing a thing.  I’ll have to clean quickly so John won’t have to wait too long.  Fortunately, the two rooms aren’t very big, she thought.  I’ll have to find a bucket, mop and dust cloth somewhere.  Perhaps I can request a moment to use the restroom, she thought, and I’ll find someone who can tell me where to find those supplies.  Sadie decided to ask the kind older woman at the reception desk.  Surely, she’d know where to find them.  She stared at the magazine.  She thought about the time she had spent with Mr. Butterick earlier in the day.  He had been so pleasant and complimentary about her work.  She couldn’t have misunderstood him, could she?  He had told her that he wanted her to design her own line of clothing for professional women.  She wished she could talk to him but what would she say?  She decided she must try to appease her boss and do whatever she told her to do.

Finally, she leaned over and touched Theresa’s arm.  I need to use the restroom.  Do we have to ask permission to leave the area?  The girl looked startled by Sadie’s request.

Yes, replied Theresa in a whisper, we must ask Miss Whalen.  The poor thing was obviously frightened of their boss, thought Sadie. 

Sadie walked over to Miss Whalen’s desk and said, Excuse me, Miss Whalen, but I need to use the restroom.

Miss Whalen responded in an annoyed voice, Well, don’t make a habit of it.  Since it’s your first day, I’ll allow it but from now on, plan to do that before you return from lunch.  Be quick now!  Miss Whalen sighed and turned back to the paperwork on her desk.

Sadie walked quickly to the door and turned down the hallway.  She reached the reception desk and spoke with her new friend regarding the supplies she needed.  The older woman looked puzzled by Sadie’s request. 

Did someone spill something? she asked.

Oh, no, responded Sadie quickly.  Miss Whalen asked me to clean after everyone leaves today and I have no idea where to find the supplies.

Miss Brooks, began her new friend.

Sadie, please, she interrupted in a friendly voice.  I think we’re going to be friends, so please call me Sadie.

I agree, Sadie and you must call me Louise, she said.  We have a cleaning staff here and they clean the entire building.  I’ll let them know the Design Studio needs attention.

Oh, no! responded Sadie.  I don’t want Miss Whalen to think I didn’t want to clean it for her.  She won’t be happy if the cleaning staff does it.  She doesn’t like me already and I don’t want to make her angry.  Could you just ask them to bring a pail, mop and some dust cloths to the Studio at 6 o’clock for me?  Let them know I’ll clean the Studio tonight.  Please!

Sadie, I’ll do that for you.  However, I’m sure Mr. Butterick would not be pleased about this.  He thinks very highly of you and he would not want you doing this.  Besides, look at your outfit!  You should not be trying to clean wearing that lovely outfit.  No one else in this building looks as nice as you, my dear, certainly not your boss! replied Louise, indignantly. 

Well, she introduced me as her apprentice, began Sadie.  So I must begin by doing whatever she asks of me.  I need to get back.  I only asked for time to use the restroom and she told me to be quick!  I just don’t know why she dislikes me so much!  I’ll talk to you tomorrow, Louise.  I really must get back now!  Sadie returned to her desk.

The