Shellfish Cookbook

By A. D. Livingston

Shellfish Cookbook offers a complete course on the world’s edible shellfish, from baby shrimp to Alaska king crab and lesser-known species such as bulldozers and lobsterettes. Steamed blue crabs, stir-fried shrimp, crawfish jambalaya and hundreds more are served up with a good dose of A.D.’s wit and practical advice on the varieties that make good eating, where they can be found, and how best to preserve their flavor.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Stackpole Books
• Release date: Dec 1, 1998
• ISBN: 9780811753319

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Copyright © 1999 by A. D. Livingston

Published by

STACKPOLE BOOKS

5067 Ritter Road

Mechanicsburg, PA 17055

www.stackpolebooks.com

All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce this book or portions thereof in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. All inquiries should be addressed to Stackpole Books, 5067 Ritter Road, Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania 17055.

Printed in the United States of America

Cover design by Caroline M. Stover

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First edition

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Livingston, A. D., 1932–

Shellfish cookbook / A. D. Livingston.

p.     cm.

Includes index.

ISBN 0-8117-2923-0 (alk. paper)

1.Cookery (Shellfish) I. Title.

TX753.L58   1998

641.6’94—dc21   97-32159

    CIP

eBook ISBN: 9780811753319

Other Stackpole Books by A. D. Livingston

Complete Fish & Game Cookbook Venison Cookbook

Wild Turkey Cookbook

Bass Cookbook

Trout Cookbook

Saltwater Fish Cookbook Duck and Goose Cookbook

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

The author would like to thank many friends and cooks who have contributed to this book. Specific acknowledgments to individuals, other books, and authors are made in the text as appropriate. A few of the recipes were used, in slightly altered form, in the author’s regular fish and game cooking column for Gray’s Sporting Journal, and several other recipes were adapted from the author’s Complete Fish & Game Cookbook, published by Stackpole Books.

CONTENTS

Acknowledgments

Introduction

ONE: Shrimp and Prawns

TWO: Crabs

THREE: Lobsters and Other Large Decapods

FOUR: Oysters

FIVE: Clams

SIX: Mussels

SEVEN: Scallops

EIGHT: Squid and Octopus

NINE: Conchs and Doods

TEN: Freshwater Crawfish

ELEVEN: Shellfish Medley

TWELVE: Sauces and Go-Withs

Appendix: Metric Conversion Tables

Index

INTRODUCTION

In spite of some dark spots here and there, both commercial and recreational shellfishing have shown improvement in recent years. And the future looks even brighter. Consider these points:

• Better transportation permits overnight delivery far into the boondocks. Here in rural Florida I can get overnight delivery of live lobsters from Maine and clambake kits from Cape Cod, complete with live clams and fresh seaweed. In return, our Apalachicola oysters speed alive to New York City and San Francisco.

• People are eating more kinds of shellfish than ever before. When I was a boy, eating a squid, for example, would have been unthinkable, at least in my neck of the woods. Today it’s available in many restaurants and seafood markets under the name calamari, and sometimes even as squid. In short, the trend around the world is toward more adventurous eating habits.

• Although recreational shellfishing is still not permitted in some areas, the sport is becoming more and more popular in others. Modern boats, sonar equipment, and scuba diving equipment have increased the harvest in deeper waters. Not long ago, for example, spiny lobsters were taken mostly in the Florida Keys. These days, much larger specimens are being taken in deeper waters in north Florida and along the Panhandle. Also, the succulent bulldozer has been discovered by recreational shellfishers and is now being exploited commercially.

• Although pollution is still a problem in many areas, better testing and control make it safer to eat shellfish these days. Yes, we do hear horror stories here and there about shellfish poisoning of one sort or another, but I believe that this is partly because of more intense media coverage as well as more active testing and control.

• Better management of recreational and commercial shellfishing is increasing the catch in many areas, taking advantage of such techniques as seeding scallops and oysters in selected waters. Also, large freshwater shrimp (or prawns), clams, mussels, and others are being farmed commercially. The potential is enormous.

In short, I see a bright future for the shellfish industry, easy pickings for the forager, and good eating all around. I can only hope that some of the prosperity rubs off on people who write and publish cookbooks on the subject!

—A. D. Livingston

ONE

Shrimp and Prawns

There are many species of shrimp, and most of them taste pretty much alike. For the marketplace, the color of the shrimp is important and often determines the marketability of the catch. World-wide, shrimp come in pink, white, gray, brown, golden, striped, and even bluish purple. One common Pacific coast shrimp has red bands on its body, and a large Central American shrimp has blue stripes on a white body.

Some shrimp live mostly in deep water; others frequent shallow bays, tidal creeks, and even fresh water. Usually it’s the deep-water shrimp that appear in our markets. Bay and tidewater shrimp are more often taken by the forager, although some people do catch shrimp for personal consumption with the aid of deep-water nets. Recreational shrimping is covered more fully at the end of this chapter.

Shrimp are usually marketed uncooked—peeled, beheaded and peeled, or whole. Sometimes they can be purchased live, but these are very expensive and hard to keep. Live shrimp are my first choice, and very fresh whole shrimp are my second choice. (Some authorities, however, say that the shrimp keep longer when they are beheaded.) Frozen shrimp are also good, provided that they were frozen while still very fresh. Even canned or dried shrimp work nicely in some recipes.

For all practical purposes, the size of fresh shrimp is often more important than the species. When grilling over charcoal, for example, tiny shrimp tend to fall through the cracks in the grill, whereas jumbo sizes hold their own and are easy to turn with ordinary tongs. Shrimp are commonly marketed by size, measured by the number of shrimp required to make up a pound. The larger the shrimp, the more expensive they are by the pound—but this doesn’t necessarily mean that larger shrimp are better for eating. For some recipes and methods of cooking, I prefer the smaller shrimp, although they are a good deal more difficult to clean. Specifications vary, but here is a reasonable code, based on fresh, heads-on shrimp:

jumbo = 15 and less per pound

large = 16 to 20 per pound

medium = 21 to 25 per pound

small = 26 to 30 per pound

tiny = 31 to 40 per pound

baby = 41 to 100 per pound

The big question for the home cook is whether to devein the shrimp before serving them to guests. Many people say that the sand vein that runs from head to tail is perfectly safe to eat. I usually eat it, but let’s be honest. It’s not a sand vein. It’s a gut. (You don’t have to call it that at the table, of course, and it’s best not to bring up the subject.) It is normally eaten in shrimp that are peeled at the table, and this practice is the best way to go, I think. Then the diner has the option of removing the vein him- or herself, although this takes a lot of time, and anyone who deveins shrimp at my table will be quite likely to miss out on second servings! Still, it can be removed easily. After the shrimp tail has been peeled, make a shallow cut along the top and remove the vein, which will be black and quite visible. There are also several kinds of shrimp deveiners on the market. I usually devein large shrimp that are peeled and butterflied.

Some of the striped and rock shrimp often have very large veins and may be unpleasant to eat without deveining. These are best when split almost in half (deveining them in the process), butterflied, and broiled or grilled. Some rock shrimp are really lobsterettes, which are covered briefly in chapter 3. I consider a prawn to be any large shrimp, but there are other opinions, and the famous Dublin Bay prawn is really a lobsterette. Scampi are also lobsterettes, although this name is often used for shrimp sautéed in butter and garlic. (I even see recipes and restaurant ads for chicken scampi these days.) Doods, krill, and mantis shrimp are covered in chapter 9. Right now, let’s eat.

FRIED SHRIMP

Frozen, prebreaded, ready-to-fry shrimp from the supermarket are very convenient, but I prefer to dust my own and cook them as follows:

A. D.’s Skillet Fry

I love to cook in a cast-iron skillet, more or less splitting the difference between deep frying and sautéing. The idea is to fry the shrimp (or fish or chicken) in oil not quite deep enough to float it, so that the bottom is in direct contact with the cast iron. I like to use medium shrimp, allowing 1 pound of whole shrimp per person, figuring that they will be so good that everybody will want seconds. I find that the light batter in this recipe soaks up very little oil. The oil should be quite hot so that it sears the shrimp on contact, sealing the juices in and the oil out.

3 or 4 pounds medium-size fresh shrimp, whole

peanut oil

flour

salt

Wash, behead, shuck, and devein the shrimp, leaving the tail fins on. Sprinkle the shrimp with salt, then shake in a bag with a little flour. Heat ¹⁄2 inch of peanut oil in a skillet to about 370 or 375 degrees. Shake the excess flour off each shrimp. Place a few of the shrimp into the skillet. Fry for 3 or 4 minutes, until nicely browned, turning once. Do not overcook. Drain the shrimp on a brown paper bag on a heated platter. Serve hot with bread and vegetables of your choice, along with a dipping sauce or two and some lemon quarters for those who want a little juice. Good homemade catsup, used sparingly, is hard to beat. To eat, hold the shrimp by the tail with your fingers and bite off the good part. The crisp tails are also edible.

Brazilian Shrimp

Brazil enjoys a very large shrimp, netted at full moon along the coastal state of Bahia. So, for authentic results, use the largest fresh jumbo shrimp or prawns that you can find.

large fresh shrimp, whole

lots of olive oil

salt and pepper

Wash the shrimp, then pat dry with paper towels. Pour enough olive oil into a cast-iron skillet to a depth of half the thickness of the shrimp. Heat almost to the smoking point, 375 degrees or better. Carefully place a few shrimp into the skillet, but do not overcrowd. Turn them several times, cooking until done—3 to 5 minutes, depending on size. Do not overcook. Remove the cooked shrimp, placing them on a brown paper bag on a heated platter. When the whole batch has been cooked, sprinkle all with salt and pepper. Serve on the brown bag and platter. Peel the shrimp at the table. If you have hearty eaters, allow at least a pound of shrimp (heads-on weight) per person. I’ll take seconds.

Whole Fried Shrimp

In this recipe, the shell helps hold in the flavors of the shrimp, and the head adds fat to the equation. The shrimp can be fried in a skillet, but a wok works best. If using a skillet, double the amount of oil.

2 pounds large shrimp, whole

¹⁄4 cup peanut oil

4 cloves garlic

4 slices fresh ginger root

4 green onions with part of tops, cut into 2-inch pieces

2 tablespoons sake or dry vermouth

1 tablespoon soy sauce

salt

¹⁄8 teaspoon white pepper

¹⁄8 teaspoon sugar

fresh parsley or cilantro (for garnish)

Heat the wok. Pour in the oil. Add the garlic and ginger, crushing the pieces against the side of the wok with a heavy wooden spoon. When the oil is flavored, discard the garlic and ginger. Add a little salt. Pat the shrimp dry and add a few of them to the wok. Do not crowd. Cook for 1 minute on each side, then turn. Do not stir. Drain and cook another batch, repeating until all the shrimp have been cooked. Put all the shrimp back into the wok, along with the green onions, white pepper, and sugar. Stir about. Add the sake. Stir about. Add the soy sauce. Cook for 30 seconds. Serve with rice, garnished with parsley or cilantro, along with steamed vegetables and a crusty bread. Feeds 2 to 4.

Note: The shrimp are peeled at the table, making this a finger-licking recipe, and are not deveined. Connoisseurs may want to suck the fat out of the head, but novices may prefer that the heads be removed before serving. Persnickety eaters will also want the shrimp peeled and deveined away from the table, thereby robbing the recipe of much of its finger-licking flavor and eye appeal. Suit yourself.

Greek Fried Shrimp

Olive oil is expensive in small bottles, but it gets much cheaper by the gallon. It always comes in handy for salad dressing, sautéing, and so on, but it is also very good for regular skillet frying and deep frying if you use enough of it. Further, it can be used over and over, provided that you clean it after each use. I strain it through a paper coffee filter, using the plastic container that came with an old drip-type brewing machine that hissed and sputtered until it finally expired.

The cooking time is very important in this recipe, and this in turn makes the size of the shrimp important. I think the large size works best. If you use jumbo shrimp, increase the time; small size, decrease.

large shrimp

flour

olive oil

fresh lemon juice

salt

Peel the shrimp, leaving on the tails, and devein them. Sprinkle lightly with a little lemon juice. Heat at least 1 inch of olive oil in a deep skillet until it is quite hot—about 375 degrees. (Use an electric skillet if you prefer.) Sprinkle the shrimp with a little salt, then shake them in a bag with flour. It’s best to shake the shrimp a few at a time, as needed. Shake the excess flour off the shrimp, then fry them in the hot oil for 3 minutes. Do not overcrowd the skillet. Do not overcook. Serve hot. Since it’s a culinary sin to dunk these shrimp into catsup, shrimp sauce, or tartar sauce, keep all such stuff hidden in the refrigerator unless somebody asks for it, in which case you might consider mumbling your answer until you get a second or third request.

Butterflied Shrimp

Here’s an attractive method of frying and eating medium to large shrimp. Each shrimp is beheaded, peeled, deveined, and split in half, leaving the tail as a handle. Then they are flattened, making a butterfly shape. I like to allow at least ³⁄4 pound of whole shrimp for each person, but smaller servings might do.

2 or 3 pounds shrimp

peanut oil for deep frying

1 cup flour

milk

2 chicken eggs, whisked

¹⁄2 teaspoon salt

¹⁄8 teaspoon baking soda

Dress and butterfly the shrimp. Rig for deep frying at 375 degrees. Sift the flour, then mix it with the salt and baking soda. Stir in the eggs and a little milk, making a thin batter. Dip each shrimp into the batter, holding it with tongs by the tail, and place it into the hot grease. Do not overcrowd the shrimp, which would lower the temperature of the oil. Cook each shrimp for 3 to 5 minutes, depending on size, until they are nicely browned. Drain on flattened brown paper bags on a heated serving platter. Serve hot, along with french fried potatoes and perhaps tartar sauce or catsup. Kids love these.

This dish is ideal for cooking on the patio or perhaps for a beach cookout or tailgate party, using a large fish fryer heated with gas cylinders.

Japanese Shrimp Tempura

This delicate creation depends on a fluffy batter and should be cooked a few shrimp at a time in a deep fryer, so that they have plenty of room without touching each other or the bottom. Recipes for tempura batter abound, but my favorite has been adapted below from The Pleasures of Seafood, by Rima and Richard Collin. I’ve read that the original recipe was given to the Japanese by the Portuguese, who also took it to Brazil, where a similar dish is prepared today.

The Shrimp

2 pounds medium fresh shrimp (heads-on weight)

1 cup flour

peanut oil

The Batter

2 large chicken eggs, separated

¹⁄2 cup flour

¹⁄2 cup beer

2 teaspoons olive oil

2 teaspoons soy sauce

¹⁄2 teaspoon salt

¹⁄2 teaspoon dry mustard

¹⁄4 teaspoon white pepper

The Dipping Sauce

¹⁄2 cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons sake

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger root

¹⁄2 teaspoon black pepper

Wash, behead, peel, and devein the shrimp, leaving the tails on. Rig for deep frying, heating several inches of oil to 375 degrees. As the oil heats, combine in a bowl all the batter ingredients except the egg whites, whisking all together thoroughly. In a small bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff. Fold the egg whites carefully and gently into the batter. The idea is to avoid losing the air in the egg whites. Do not combine too vigorously, leaving perhaps a streak or two of egg white.

Holding the shrimp by the tails, dip each one into a bowl of flour, then into the batter. Let the shrimp drip over the batter for a few seconds, then put it gently into the hot oil. Repeat until you have 6 or 8 shrimp in the hot oil. Do not overcrowd. The shrimp will puff up, so they need plenty of room. Fry until the batter is crisp and golden, 3 or 4 minutes, depending on the size of the shrimp. Drain carefully on paper towels or a brown bag while you cook another batch. It’s best to have the paper towels or brown bag on a hot platter to keep the shrimp very warm, or place them in a slow oven. If allowed to cool, they tend to be soggy. Serve on heated plates, along with the dipping sauce.

Fried Go-Withs. The Japanese serve vegetables—mushrooms, asparagus, green beans, sliced sweet potatoes, lotus root, sliced squash, and so on—also dipped into the tempura batter and deep-fried. All this, piled on a plate with the fried shrimp, can be very good, but to me that’s a little too much fried food—especially if you like lots of shrimp, as I do. On the other hand, an American fry often includes fried fish, French fries, and hush puppies. So, suit yourself.

Finger-Licking Fried Shrimp

Here’s an easy recipe for cooking a large batch of fresh shrimp, provided that you have plenty of time for eating. I think the recipe works best with small to medium shrimp, making eating them strictly a nibbling job. For best results, heat at least 2 gallons of peanut oil in a large iron pot to a temperature of a little hotter than 350 degrees. Don’t cook too many shrimp at a time, or the oil temperature will drop too low. The Cajun spice is a commercial mix that is available in most supermarkets and in Cajun food outlets.

lots of fresh shrimp

2 gallons peanut oil

Cajun spice mix (powdered)

Heat the oil in a large iron pot. When it reaches 375 degrees, fry the shrimp a few at a time for 2 or 3 minutes. (For