Wild Tea Hunter: Hunting China's Ancient Tea Trees. Journeying to the Last Tea Artisans
By J.T. Hunter
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Wild Tea Hunter - J.T. Hunter
WILD TEA
HUNTER
J T Hunter
Hunting China’s ancient tea trees
Revealing the harsh realities of big tea business
Journeying to the last true tea artisans
Copyright@2013 by JT Hunter
All captioned photographs by JT Hunter
All rights reserved under the Pan-American and International Copyright Conventions
Printed in USA
ISBN 978-1-940085-02-9
Ebook ISBN 978-1-940085-02-9
Ebook ISBN 978-1-940085-02-9
Cover Design by Shana Zhang
Interior Design by David J. Frith
Publisher
Wild Tea Qi Publishing
Suite 401 Dong Jian Building
South University Road
Kunming, Yunnan Province
DEDICATION
This book is dedicated first and foremost to my teachers who helped make this book possible. To Dr. Wu; if it was not for you, I would not be where I am today. Thank you for introducing me to another level of appreciation of tea, and for opening the doors to a new life. I shall be forever grateful for your setting me on this path.
To all my Qigong and martial arts teachers, who gave me the gift of a lifelong practice that will forever be my center.
To all the people who I have left unnamed, who helped bring this dream to life. There are several of you whom I consider make the heart and soul of Wild Tea Qi and without whom, the company would have remained just a vision. Without you, none of it would have been possible. There are those of you who were with me at the early stages, when we were living in small, dingy apartments to save money to start the tea business.
To China, for opening my eyes to a new world, a new life and some of the most amazing people I ever met. I call you, China, my home.
To Wai-Lin Terry, who tirelessly edited this book to make my English coherent.
To my mother and father, who brought me into this life, and who gave their unending emotional support through thick and thin.
To all the tea farmers who are practicing their art from generation to generation, and who share these amazing gifts with the world.
Some names in this book were changed to keep confidentiality.
FOREWORD
From the Taoist mountains of Wuyishan to the remote mountains of Yunnan, JT Hunter keeps on his search for the exotic, wild and ancient tea trees and master tea artisans. JT, Founder of Wild Tea Qi, has studied with Taoist masters, Buddhist monks, and witnessed first hand the mysterious and age-old tea rituals and cultures of the native tribes of Yunnan.
A student of Taoist healing martial arts, meditation and Qigong for many years, he learned, while studying with a renowned Chinese medicine doctor, how to heal himself emotionally and physically with wild teas. This sparked his interest as he noticed that whenever he drank a particular wild tea, in this case an Oolong, he felt invigorated, his spirits were high, and his creativity flowed. He discovered that the energy or Qi of a tea is greatly influenced by the method of cultivation, and when it can grow strong roots into the ground, it produces strong Qi.
After his training, he went on to China to work at a free healing clinic, treating patients with a special form of Qigong Tui Na (Qigong Medical Massage) and Medical Qigong. While in China, he decided to explore the mountains where the magnificent wild Oolong came from.
It was love at first sight. When he came across the farmer and family on the mountain using the traditional cultivation and processing secrets as did 800 years of ancestors before them, JT knew he had a mission - to research and hunt down more wild teas.
Later in this travels, he encountered a mysterious Taoist monk in Wuyishan, who opened his eyes to a whole new world. He learned about the spirits of wild teas and how they have been used in many traditional practices, including meditation and Qigong, for thousands of years.
He opted to study more about the spirits of tea with this extraordinary monk, deep in the mountains of Wuyishan. His search next led him to the remote mountains of Yunnan, where he came across the native tribes who prayed to the spirits of ancient wild trees through ceremonies and rituals. The relationships between these tribes and the wild tea tree spirits date back thousands of years, and are rooted in the belief that the trees had protected them through war, famine and tumultuous times.
In his treks, JT saw how large-scale farms and unsustainable harvesting practices were destroying the environment while producing teas with very weak Qi. Teas were simply being mass-produced for large profits while the workers were earning poor wages. He was alarmed at how the master tea artisans were quickly disappearing, and how the various spiritual tea cultures were being lost in the rush to meet the mass demand for tea.
It became JT’s mission to help support the true tea artisans and to renew interest in sustainable tea growing practices. He created Wild Tea Qi, to introduce the amazing, spiritual tea cultures to the west, by providing sustainably grown, artisan wild teas with complex flavors and strong Qi.
Today, JT tirelessly continues his travels across China, going off the beaten track to dig deeper into spiritual tea cultures while searching for wild and ancient tea trees.
Contents
Dedication
Foreword
First Time in China
Childhood
Learning From a Third Generation TCM Doctor
The Real Hunt For Wild Tea Begins
Studying with a Taoist Master
The Making of a Tea Hunter
Learning Mandarin
Getting Cheated by Translators
Identify The Fakes from the Real
Industry Lies and Other BS
Stealing the Tea Princess From the Dark Side
Breaking a Chinese Family
Fair Trade; Is It Really?
How The Big Factories Deceive Organic Certification
Three Methods Of Organic Certification Deception
Is Rainforest Alliance Helping?
Hunting Down the Real Organic Tie Guan Yin
Taoist Tea Culture
Taoist Temple Tea
Taoist Tea Master Yu
Transcending from a Tea Taster to a Tea Feeler
Tea Qigong
Using The Five Elements of Tea for Healing
How is A Sour Taste Linked to Green Tea?
Table of the Five Elements
Taoist Tea Ceremony
Buddhist Tea Culture
Tribal Cultures of Yunnan
Wa Tribal Tea Culture
Yi Tribal Tea Culture
Hani Tribal Tea Culture
Hani Tea Drinking Tradition
Bai Tribal Tea Culture
Dawn Of A New Age of Tea
Tea Monoculture - The Destruction of Nature
BiodiversiTEA and How it Can Help Save Our Planet
Three Critical Reasons Why It Is Better To Drink BiodiversiTEA
Why You Must Be Vigilant of Where Your Tea Comes From
Teas For Sustainability
Ancient Wisdom of Ancient Tree Tea
Growing a Small Tea Company The Grassroots Way
Meet The Tea Masters
Tea Artisan Chen Mei
Tea Master Grandma Yang Xue Fang
Tea Master Yang Kai
Wuyishan Tea Farmers’ Collective
Yang Si
Tea Master Hei Che
Future Predictions and Advice on the Business of Tea for China
Tea Hunter’s Guide to Professional Tea Hunting
The harsh realities of sourcing teas
The Seven Golden Rules of Tea Hunting
Golden Rule #1 Find a Local Hound Dog You can Trust
Golden Rule #2 Cultivate Your Relationship
Golden Rule #3 Understand Face
Golden Rule #4 Spot Check Your Teas
Golden Rule #5 Eat What They Serve You
Golden Rule #6 Learn the Language
Golden Rule #7 Find Out Who Is Behind the Farmer
How to Identify Wild and Ancient Tree Teas From Standard Farmed Teas
Judging Ancient Tree Tea vs. Standard Tea by Taste
FIRST TIME IN CHINA
Iwas driving through dirty city roads in an almost unknown part of the world, Chaozhou in Southern China. There were no signs and I wondered how anyone could possibly find their way around here. Sitting in the front seat of small car with three other people, all of whom were natives of Chaozhou, we pulled into the small but busy city of Puning. This city seemed to be about at least 30 years behind any large American city. The driver was Chen, the brother-in-law of Dr. Liu, my longtime friend, teacher and Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) Doctor. In the back sat a young translator about 20 years old, whose English I could barely understand. He was seated next to Chen’s wife, Dr. Liu’s sister. As I stepped out of the car, bicycles, cars and people passed by me in a flurry. The streets were filled with vendors selling things of all types, from fruits to goods. I couldn’t help but notice that there wasn’t a single other foreigner in sight nor could I help but notice that every single person seemed to be staring at me in amazement. I felt like an animal in a zoo; they were staring at me probably wondering, what is this strange foreigner doing here?
I knew then that I was far, far away from home.
The air was hot, dry and dusty as seems to be the case with much of Chaozhou, which is a dry and mountainous city in the easternmost point of Guangdong. I could not see the sun clearly as it was constantly blocked by a dusty haze. Rain must have been a problem because the mountains looked dry, and the trees and vegetation did not grow very tall. I later heard that there were many caves in the mountains but I did not get a chance to visit them.
It was only a few days ago that I was relaxing in the mountains of New Zealand by the ocean when I got a call from Dr. Liu who was in my hometown of Boston at the time.
Can you go to China to treat some of my patients at my clinic in Chaozhou?
Dr. Liu spoke in a thick accent. Although he had lived in the US about 20 years, his accent was still strong.
But Dr. Liu, I am a 30 year old white American male who does not speak any Mandarin. How on earth will any of these people believe me that I can heal them with Tui Na and Qigong?
I said, totally surprised that he would even suggest that.
Trust me, these are my patients, and if I tell them you are good, they will believe in you.
Dr. Wu said, his tone serious.
Childhood
I have been studying martial arts and meditation since I was seven years old. My parents were health food fanatics, they meditated and did yoga every day. My father studied the ancient text of oracles, the I-Ching, and practiced Qigong and Tai Chi religiously. This was a normal way of life for me. At 12 years old, I started studying Yang Style Tai Chi. When I was 19 years, my father in introduced me to an intriguing Qigong teacher. At that point, I began a serious daily practice of Qigong and have continued ever since. I fell in love with Qigong, and wanted to incorporate some serious Qigong martial arts as I grew older. When I reached the age of 23, I began Emei Mountain Style Baguazhang under Master Liang Shou Yu’s teachings.
I also had a deep love of nature, which began with a 10-day hike into the White Mountains of New Hampshire when I was 15 years old. Two years later, I enrolled in a school deep in the mountains of Idaho that taught wilderness survival skills. We slept in a tipi for three months, and I hiked the Rocky Mountains for weeks at a time. I have since studied wilderness survival and wilderness living the Native American way with several schools. Due to that love of nature, I naturally took to Qigong, which bases many of its forms on the moves and habits of wildlife and believes that energy flows all around us in nature and within us.
Baguazhang is a mysterious Qigong martial art very well known in China, but is unknown to most westerners. Now I am an official Orthodox Wudang Shan (Mountain) Baguazhang seventh generation disciple of my life long master.
Emei and Wudang Shan are the two most well-known and popular styles of Baguazhang Qiqong, of which there are many variations. Wudang Shan is a mountain range in Hubei and the many monasteries there are Taoist temples. Emei Mountain is found in Sichuan and its residents include both Buddhists and Taoists. Although there are differences in styles and forms, most of the famous Baguazhang masters are known to have mastered both. This was the case with China’s most famous Baguazhang master in recent history, Lu Zijian who, on his death at 120 years of age, was acknowledged as China’s oldest citizen. Although he excelled at both schools, his lineage is linked to the Wudang Shan style, as Wudang Mountain was where he was born and where he lived during his first 20 years.
I like to point out some differences between these esoteric forms of Qiqong but note that these are based only on my own personal preferences, my teachers and my own state of mind at the time of training.
Hands: When I learned the Emei system, I had to hold my hand flat out in front, with the fingers spread apart and the thumb in a horizontal position. In Wudang Shan Baguazhang, I curved my fingers slightly as if I was holding a ball of invisible Qi. I could feel more energy flowing between my hands this way and I felt I was holding
more QI.
Steps: There were significant differences here. The Emei step was like sliding forward in mud, which required that I first step out with a flat foot, and then take a little slide in the same direction. To smoothen the movement, I had to wear kungfu shoes