Gourmet Traveller

The art of… hospitality

The best souvenir a traveller can cart home is a new habit, pastime, social grace or tradition. Japan, I can confirm, is an extravagant buffet of nuanced social niceties, life-enhancing rituals and cultural rites.

Exactly two years ago I flew from Los Angeles to Osaka, for a 10-day trip that felt an awful lot like an intensive personal improvement bootcamp. I arrived in Osaka feeling like an unkempt, jet-lagged, unruly urchin. The gleaming cleanliness of the airport

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