History can be a heavy weight to bear. Being caretakers for a legacy and advocates for a tradition can win you credibility in small circles, but such victories seem inconsequential in the face of an industry and consumer tide that rolls toward simpler tastes. Cantillon, founded in 1900, survived the industry consolidation and shifting consumer tastes of the 20th century, when the number of Brussels lambic breweries dwindled from dozens to just one. While a cadre of diehards appreciated their adherence to tradition, it was the Jean-Pierre Van Roy’s decision to open as a tourist-focused museum that actually kept the business afloat.
When interest in craft brewing began to rise toward the end of the century, Cantillon saw ripples that broke into serious waves over the past couple of decades. Today, they stand at the pinnacle—not just as one of Belgium’s most respected lambic breweries, but also as one of the finest examples of artful brewing anywhere in the world.
In this episode, recorded in Cantillon’s second-floor tasting room, fourth-generation brewer Jean Van Roy recounts that storied past while discussing how the brewery has adapted to the current environment, embracing an energetic, winery-like approach to making beer. He discusses:
the necessity of keeping an active hand in the production of every beer
brewing in a living building that actively impacts the beer
following the vision of his family while discovering his own natural way to work
the turbid mash process using two boil kettles in the vintage 1800s brewhouse
picking up blending skills without learning them
utilizing long boils to decrease the cheesy flavors in aged hops
hop varieties used in Cantillon lambic
embracing the natural microflora
allowing Pediococcus to work by not pre-acidifying the wort
the ideal temperature range for lambic brewing and impacts of climate change
sustainability measures at the historic brewery
fruit philosophy and techniques
mixing wine lees and lambic in barrel-aged beers such as La Vie Est Belge
their sensory approach to fruit maceration
And more.
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