25 Essentials: Techniques for Wood-Fired Ovens: Every Technique Paired with a Recipe
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25 Essentials - A. Cort Sinnes
Contents
Introduction:The Essentials of Cooking in a Wood-Fired Oven
BREADS AND PIZZAS
1 Pizza 101:Making Wood-Fired Pizza
2 Calzone:Making Wood-Fired Calzone
3 Pizza Bianca:Making Pizza Bianca in a Wood-Fired Oven
4 Pretzels:Baking Wood-Fired Pretzels
5 A Basic Loaf Bread:Bread Baking in a Wood-Fired Oven
FISH AND POULTRY
6 Side of Salmon:Preparing Wood-Fired Salmon
7 Swordfish Fillets Wrapped in Prosciutto:Making Wood-Fired Swordfish
8 Chicken Thighs, Legs, and Wings:Roasting Chicken Parts in a Wood-Fired Oven
9 Whole Roasted Butterflied Turkey:Roasting a Whole Turkey in a Wood-Fired Oven
10 Quail, Butterflied or Not:Roasting Quail in a Wood-Fired Oven
11 Peking
Duck Breast:Roasting Duck Breast in a Wood-Fired Oven
MEATS
12 Florentine Steak:Grilling T-Bone Steaks in a Wood-Fired Oven
13 Wagon Train Chuck Pot Roast and Beans:Making a Pot Roast and Beans in a Wood-Fired Oven
14 Cowboy Steak with Whiskey Sauce:Grilling Sirloin Steak in a Wood-Fired Oven
15 Porchetta:Roasting Pork Belly in a Wood-Fired Oven
16 Country-Style Pork Ribs, Asian Style:Grilling Pork Ribs in a Wood-Fired Oven
17 Tacos al Pastor:Making Pork Shoulder Tacos in a Wood-Fired Oven
18 Leg of Lamb:Roasting a Leg of Lamb in a Wood-Fired Oven
VEGETABLES AND SIDES
19 Roasted Vegetable Medley:Roasting Mixed Vegetables in a Wood-Fired Oven
20 Smashed New Potatoes with Miso Mayonnaise:Roasting Potatoes in a Wood-Fired Oven
21 Roasted Tomatoes:Roasting Tomatoes in a Wood-Fired Oven
22 Go-To Mixed Greens:Roasting Greens in a Wood-Fired Oven
23 Break-the-Rules Risotto:Making Risotto in a Wood-Fired Oven
24 Slow-Cooked Italian White Beans:Slow-Cooking White Beans in a Wood-Fired Oven
25 Cowboy Chili Beans:Preparing Pinto Beans in a Wood-Fired Oven
Sources
Acknowledgments
About the Author
Index
Introduction:
The Essentials of Cooking in a Wood-Fired Oven
Exactly how long ago our human ancestors started cooking their food is hotly contested (the best estimates are between 400,000 and 1 million years ago), but one thing can be certain: they were using some kind of a live fire to do so.
Things didn’t really change much over thousands of years, except for the gradual and comparatively recent move toward containing the fire and being able to control its heat. Ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans all used some type of brick or stone oven, the direct antecedent of today’s wood-fired ovens. From the early cast-iron stoves heated by wood fire in the 1700s, the home oven progressed to coal and kerosene (early nineteenth century), gas and electric ovens (early twentieth century), and microwave ovens (mid-twentieth century). And now, with the reemergence of the wood-fired oven, we have come full circle, doubling back on our ancient ancestors. It seems the more digital and abstract we become, the greater our appreciation is for a primitive and primal counterweight. Interestingly, cooking in a wood-fired oven today remains as unpredictable and idiosyncratic as it was a thousand years ago, nothing at all like the precision and consistency we strive for when cooking in any of today’s conventional ovens.
Before you get started, be forewarned: there’s a fair amount of theater that goes naturally with cooking in a wood-fired oven, even when you’re cooking by yourself. If you aren’t cooking by yourself, be sure to provide seating for your guests, not only for their comfort but also to keep them out of your way during the heat of the battle.
Folks are drawn to a live fire and will be interested in being part of the process. Without meaning to sound unfriendly, being prepared for this social aspect of wood-fired cooking will help keep you from being derailed by conversation and well-intentioned meddling.
TYPES OF WOOD-FIRED OVENS
Recent years have seen the proliferation of all types of wood-fired ovens, from $149 so-called pizza ovens,
some of which rest on a countertop and others of which stand on legs, to large custom-built masonry ovens that can cost $25,000 and up. Despite their many differences, commercially available wood-fired ovens can be broken down into two categories: black fire and white fire. Black fire
ovens are those in which the fire is in the same chamber as the food, while the fire in white fire
ovens is in a separate chamber below the cooking chamber, leaving the latter relatively smoke- and ash-free.
Given their intrinsic idiosyncrasies, it’s difficult to make hard-and-fast distinctions between these two types of wood-fired ovens, but for the sake of simplicity, here are a few broad statements that generally hold