Florence and Tuscany
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About this ebook
Enrico Massetti wrote this book with 230 color images.
Tuscany is in the central-western part of Italy on the Tyrrhenian Sea. It gets its name from an Etruscan tribe that settled about three thousand years ago. It belonged to the Romans, the Lombards, and the Franks.
More than four hundred years ago, Tuscany became a major European center under the Medici. It is undoubtedly one of Italy's top tourist destinations and an ideal place for your villa when you hit it big, huge.
Florence is the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance and the administrative center of Tuscany. It is one of Italy's top tourist destinations, whose sites of interest are too numerous to list here. Siena and Pisa are two other major tourist destinations.
Tuscany is a center of industrial production, particularly metallurgy, chemicals, and textiles. Given the region's importance as an international art center for centuries, don't be surprised that it is an excellent place to appreciate and purchase fashion, jewelry, leather goods, marble, and other beauty items. Florence is the home of the house of Gucci.
Tuscany produces various kinds of cereal, olives, vegetables, and fruit. But vegetarians eat well. It is home to cattle, horses, pigs, and poultry. One local specialty is the wild boar. On the coast, seafood is abundant.
Tuscany devotes over fifty thousand acres to grapevines; it ranks 4th among the 20 Italian regions. Its annual wine production is about 58 million gallons, giving it 8th. About 70% of the wine production is red or rose', leaving 30% for white. The region produces 44 DOC wines. DOC stands for Denomination di Origin Controlled, translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine and 7 DOCG white wines. The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, but there is, in fact, no guarantee that such wines are truly superior. The region produces 9 DOCG wines. Tuscany also produces Super Tuscan wines, wines that may not have a prestigious classification but are outstanding.
This guide covers a visit to Florence and to Tuscany: the cities covered include Fiesole, Arezzo, Cortona, Chiusi, the Chianti region, Siena, Volterra, San Gimignano, Pisa, Carrara, Massa, the Versilia, Lucca, Pistoia, Montepulciano, Pienza, Grosseto, Massa Marittima, and Monte Argentario.
There are extensive descriptions and photos of the attractions.
The guide contains links to the websites of train and air travel companies.
It also has a listing of many reviews for the best-recommended restaurants.
Enrico Massetti
Enrico Massetti nació en Milán, Italia, donde vivió durante más de 30 años, visitando innumerables destinos turísticos, desde las montañas de los Alpes hasta el mar de Sicilia. Ahora vive en Washington, Estados Unidos. Sin embargo, visita regularmente su ciudad natal y disfruta recorriendo todos los lugares de su país, especialmente aquellos a los que puede llegar en transporte público. Puede contactar con Enrico en enrico@italian-visits.com.
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Florence and Tuscany - Enrico Massetti
Enrico Massetti
dedicated to my friend Patricia
who lives and teaches tango in Florence
Table of content
Enrico Massetti iii
Table of content vii
Florence 1
Plenty of things to do before going 2
On the morning of the first day, a view of Florence 3
San Miniato 4
Forte Belvedere 6
The Baptistery 7
Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore 10
Orsanmichele 16
Piazza della Signoria 17
Piazzale degli Uffizi 21
Where to have lunch on the first day 21
Restaurants at less than 5 minutes from Piazza della Signoria: 21
Restaurants right on the Piazza della Signoria: 22
The afternoon of the first day. Ponte Vecchio 23
Loggia del Mercato Nuovo 24
Palagio dei Capitani di Parte Guelfa 26
Santa Trinità 27
Palazzo Corsini 29
Palazzo Strozzi 30
The morning of the second day: 31
Ospedale degli Innocenti 32
Museo Archeologico 33
Cenacolo di Santa Apollonia 34
Galleria dell'Accademia 35
Sagrestia Nuova of San Lorenzo 36
Santa Maria Novella 38
Where to have lunch the second day 39
Restaurants at less than 5 minutes from Santa Maria Novella: 39
The afternoon of the second day 40
Palazzo Pitti 41
Garden of Boboli 42
Where to have gelato 42
Gelaterias close to the city center 42
Where to have dinner 43
Restaurants close to the city center 43
Where to buy souvenirs in Florence 44
Fiesole 46
Where to eat in Fiesole 48
Florence American Cemetery and Memorial 50
Florence American Cemetery Travel via Car 51
Florence American Cemetery Travel via Public Transportation 51
Arezzo 52
Where to eat in Arezzo 57
Cortona 59
Chiusi 61
A journey in the province of Florence: Chianti area 63
Via Cassia 64
San Casciano Val di Pesa 66
Tavernelle Val di Pesa 67
Barberino Val D’Elsa 69
Via Chiantigiana 70
Impruneta 71
Greve in Chianti 72
Castellina in Chianti 73
Radda in Chianti 74
Gaiole in Chianti 75
Castelnuovo Berardenga 76
Siena 77
Siena – Piazza del Campo & Torre del Mangia 78
Siena – the Duomo di Siena 79
A visit to Siena 80
The Palio di Siena
– Palio of Siena 83
Siena: Terziere di Città 84
Siena: Terziere di San Martino 85
Siena: Terziere di Camollia 86
The Palio 87
How to get to Siena 92
Where to eat in Siena 93
Volterra 94
Piazza dei Priori 95
Where to eat in Volterra 96
San Gimignano 97
Some San Gimignano History 98
Where to eat in San Gimignano. 100
Pisa 101
Pisa - The Baptistery 103
Pisa - The Camposanto 104
Pisa - The Duomo 105
Pisa - The Bell Tower, known as The Leaning Tower 106
San Paolo a Ripa d’Arno 107
National Museum of Pisa 108
Palazzo della Carovana 109
San Michele in Borgo 110
Where to eat in Pisa 111
Carrara - Massa 113
Where to eat in Carrara 115
Versilia 116
Where to eat in Forte dei Marmi 118
Lucca 119
Where to eat in Lucca 122
Pistoia 123
Where to eat in Pistoia 126
Montepulciano 127
Where to eat in Montepulciano 131
Pienza 132
Where to eat in Pienza 134
Grosseto 135
Where to eat in Grosseto 138
Maremma Massa Marittima 139
Where to eat in Massa Marittima 142
Maremma Monte Argentario 143
Porto Santo Stefano 144
Porto Ercole 145
Where to eat in Porto Ercole 146
Isola del Giglio 147
Maremma Capalbio 149
How to get to Florence by air 151
Arriving at Pisa Airport 151
How to get to Florence by train 151
How to get to Florence by car 152
Florence Paid parking lots 153
Florence Private Garages 154
Florence Pay street parking 154
Florence Free parking 155
Florence Parking outside Florence 155
Renting a car in Tuscany 157
Reserving Your Car 157
Driving Around Tuscany 158
Driving in Luxury 158
Tuscany Food & Recipes 159
Tuscany's typical food includes 161
Tuscany Recipes 161
Other tourism guides 164
Italian-visits.com 164
The Author 164
Travel books of the same author: 165
Things to Know 168
Index 173
Florence
Florence has been the cultural capital of Europe since 1400, when Europe's towns were rural and crude, while Florence practiced the art of civilized living. Today Florence is geographically small but culturally rich, with more artistic masterpieces per square mile than any other place on earth.
Map Description automatically generatedItaly
Florence is in Northern Italy, conveniently reachable from Rome, Venice, and Milan. It is the regional capital of Tuscany.
Map Description automatically generatedMap of Florence
The center of Florence is small and compact and can very quickly be covered on foot.
Plenty of things to do before going
These are the few things you must do before making a two-day visit to Florence possible:
Make Accademia reservations for mid-morning of the second day. You can do it online at http://www.uffizi.com/accademia-gallery-florence.asp. The Accademia is a must-see, although it shouldn't take more than an hour of your precious time. Michelangelo's David is worth the admission, and you can take as little as 30 seconds of looking at or 30 minutes of studying the sculptures. The other pieces in the museum are excellent, mainly the other Michelangelo sculptures.
Make your hotel reservations.
Make your train and air reservation.
To visit the Galleria degli Uffizi, you would need to spend a lot of time waiting in line. Even if you made a reservation, you still must wait for hours. It has therefore not been included in this itinerary.
On the morning of the first day, a view of Florence
A city with a mountain in the background Description automatically generated with medium confidenceView of Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo.
Before starting to see should first look down from the top of one of its grey stone towers at the red sea of roofs lying between the hills, scattered with villas, cypresses, and olive groves.
The natural setting of the city is superb.
We start our visit to Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo, the most famous observation points of the city point of Florence.
It is reproduced in countless postcards and a must-see for anyone visiting the city.
San Miniato
A group of people walking up stairs to a building Description automatically generated with low confidenceSan Miniato
The old town can be appreciated in its entirety from the surrounding hills, especially from Forte Belvedere, from the Piazzale Michelangelo with the Romanesque Basilica of San Miniato al Monte, which offers one of the most beautiful views of the Arno valley.
From this point, go up the monumental staircase of San Salvatore to San Miniato, with its façade of inlaid polychrome marble; this is more than decoration.
It is color serving; express the architecture; the serene beauty of this façade is a foreshadowing of the Renaissance.
A painting of a group of people Description automatically generated with low confidenceFrescoes by Spinello Aretino
In the interior, this peaceful expression of beauty in marble is continued. In the nave, the Chapel of the Crucifix by Michelozzo, in the north aisle, the beautiful tomb by Manetti for a Portuguese Cardinal. In the Sacristy, there are frescoes by Spinello Aretino, a pleasing minor master of the late 14th-century.
The crypt is the oldest part of the church (XI-century), is surmounted by the main altar that is supposed to contain the bones of San Miniato (although there is evidence that these had already been brought to Metz before the church was built).
If the rectory is concerned, it is accessed through its five arches that lead to three flights of stairs, corresponding respectively to the church's aisles.
The ceiling vaults rest on thirty-eight columns divided into three aisles inner and four sides.
There are frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi on this ceiling, dating back to 1341.
Forte Belvedere
A picture containing mountain, sky, outdoor, building Description automatically generatedForte Belvedere
From here, you can walk 15 minutes to Forte Belvedere (late 16th-century), which houses detached frescoes from various parts of Tuscany. Beneath is the Boboli Garden.
Today, the Forte Belvedere is one of the city's most beautiful sights, hence the name, which competes advantageously with the Piazzale Michelangelo. It is open to the public until late at night and includes a bar-restaurant and a nightclub during the summer. In 2006, the Alberto della Ragione Collection was exhibited, and at a vantage point on the ramparts was placed a large sofa, a dozen meters long.
Going through the rusticated Porta San Giorgio, we come into the almost country lane of Via San Leonardo. We walk towards the monumental complex of the Baptistery and the Cathedral.
This walk takes about 15 minutes.
The Baptistery
A large stone building with statues in front of it Description automatically generated with medium confidenceThe Baptistery
We start our visit to the monuments of the old town with the most ancient building in Florence: The Baptistery.
It is 11th-century and has the same clean and linear architectural lines as San Miniato.
A picture containing indoor, ceiling, painting Description automatically generatedVenetian mosaic on the dome
The interior is an elegant octagon with a glittering Venetian mosaic on the vault.
The impressive Mary Magdalene and the Papal Tomb by Donatello stand on either side of the altar.
A picture containing sculpture, several Description automatically generatedThe Gate of Paradise
The bronze doors are of different periods; facing the Cathedral, which Michelangelo called The Gate of Paradise, is the masterpiece of Lorenzo Ghiberti (1378-1455).
Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore
A picture containing outdoor, tall, church, old Description automatically generatedCathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore
Opposite the Baptistery is the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. The facade is from the 19th-century, but the interior impresses the pure harmony with which the Florentines adopted (or perhaps adapted) the Gothic style. Giotto took part in the Cathedral building, which was completed by that genius of the early Renaissance, Brunelleschi, with his mighty dome.
A picture containing text, indoor, altar Description automatically generatedDante - Domenico di Michelino
In the north aisle, there are the fresco portraits of Dante, by Domenico di Michelino, of two captains of the Florentine army, the Essex knight, Sir John Hawkwood (Giovanni Acuto
) by Paolo Uccello, and Niccolò da Tolentino by Andrea del Castagno.
Campanile di Giotto
Leaving by the door at the end of the church, in the south aisle, we note the sharp curve of the apse and the rich shape of the Campanile, or bell tower, which Giotto planned at seventy years of age.
A picture containing wall, sculpture, building, person Description automatically generatedMichelangelo - Pietà Bandini
The Opera del Duomo Museum is located just east of the Duomo, near its apse.
It opened in 1891 and now houses what has been called one of the world's most important collections of sculpture.
It is the most dramatically eloquent of the four Pietà carved by Michelangelo, the sculptor intended for his tomb.
There are also some essential sculptures, including the Choir, with its garlands of putti and the realistic statue of the Prophet Habbakuk (known to the Florentines as lo Zuccone,
or Old Baldpate
) by Donatello.
The Duomo with Brunelleschi Dome
Orsanmichele
Inside of a church Description automatically generated with low confidenceOrsanmichele
Along Via dei Calzaioli, we pass Orsanmichele, a church as reliable as a fortress. Round its sides, between the richly decorated windows, there are statues by Donatello, Nanni di Banco, Ghiberti, Verrocchio, and Giambologna.
The Tabernacle commanded the gray interior, a masterpiece of sculpture as minute