Trieste and Friuli History, and Tourism

By Enrico Massetti

If you plan to tour Europe, you should consider the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of northeastern Italy, bordering Austria and Slovenia. For simplicity's sake, we abbreviate the region's full name to Friuli. This lovely region may be an ideal vacation spot. You can get classic Italian food and other specialties and wash it with excellent local wine. While Friuli is by no means undiscovered by tourists, you usually won't be fighting crowds to see what you want. Like most regions of Italy, it has belonged to many nations. The area remains multicultural, with an exceptional mixture of Italian, Austrian, and Slavic influences.

Trieste, with a population of about two hundred thousand, is the region's largest city. Trieste was part and parcel of Mittel Europa (Central Europe) as the principal port of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Trieste only joined Italy in 1954. Therefore, one can easily imagine that Trieste is a special place to visit with a unique history. During the centuries, Trieste was suspended among three different civilizations: the Roman, the Austro - Germanic, and the Slavic.

As soon as you arrive in Trieste, you'll notice its ubiquitous coffee houses. Among the best known is the Antico Caffe San Marco. As it befits its internationality, Trieste is home to various historic religious buildings representing many faiths. The Serbian-Orthodox church of the Holy Trinity and Saint Spyridon, built in the mid-Nineteenth century, shows the substantial byzantine influence. Go inside for a look at its beautiful frescoes and icons. Just over a century old, the Israelite Temple of Trieste is Italy's largest synagogue. The Trieste Cathedral, dedicated to the city's patron saint, San Giusto (Saint Justus), who was martyred at the beginning of the Fourth Century, was initially built in the Sixth Century on Roman ruins. It is adjacent to a castle of the same name. Walk on its ramparts for an excellent view of the city and its surroundings. There is no shortage of other churches and museums to visit.

This is a guide to a trip in the Friuli region of Italy: passing through Grado, Lignano, Aquileia, Trieste, Pordenone, Udine, and touching the mountains of Friuli, the Carnia, Tarvisio, and Sequals.

There are extensive descriptions and photos of the attractions.

It contains many reviews for the best-recommended restaurants at the location described.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Massetti Publishing
• Release date: Jul 26, 2022
• ISBN: 9798201110697

Enrico Massetti

Enrico Massetti nació en Milán, Italia, donde vivió durante más de 30 años, visitando innumerables destinos turísticos, desde las montañas de los Alpes hasta el mar de Sicilia. Ahora vive en Washington, Estados Unidos. Sin embargo, visita regularmente su ciudad natal y disfruta recorriendo todos los lugares de su país, especialmente aquellos a los que puede llegar en transporte público. Puede contactar con Enrico en [e-mail].

Book preview

Enrico Massetti

Text Copyright © Enrico Massetti 2015-2021

Images ©, or CC Creative Commons license, as specified for each image

Cover image © Adobe inc.

Published by Enrico Massetti

All Rights Reserved

2022-12 edition

From Venice to Friuli

Venice is not in Friuli, but you can start your visit there and follow this section that illustrates a car voyage from Venice to tour the region of Friuli.

Friuli has been for centuries at the crossroads of very different cultures: the Italian/Roman, the German/Astro-Hungarian, and the Slavic/Slovenian cultures met here, often clashing bloodily.

Where to stay in Friuli

After centuries of wars, Friuli is now a peaceful region with a well-established tourist industry. It offers all sorts of accommodations:

On the web portal https://www.turismofvg.it/ you can access all the tourist places you can stay and select the one you prefer.

At the web address https://www.turismofvg.it/tfvgb/booking/nuovaricerca, you can do your search as it's an independent and reliable source of information.

A unique hospitality structure: the Alberghi Diffusi

A kitchen with wooden cabinets Description automatically generated with low confidence

Albergo Diffuso Zoncolan, Ovaro

The Albergo Diffuso is an innovative concept of hospitality. It was launched in Italy in the early 1980s to revive small, historic Italian villages and town centers off the usual tourist track. Translated into English as dispersed hotel, scattered hotel, or virtual hotel, it is a hotel that is not in a single block but converted out of various historic buildings in a small community. It must conform to the following conditions:

As of 2010, more than 40 Italian Alberghi Diffusi were grouped under a national association, and 13 Italian regions had adopted legislation regulating the concept. In Friuli in 2021 there are 17 Alberghi diffusi. They are all presented in this book on the relevant page.

In the mountains, old houses in a typically rustic style, ancient farmhouses, and out-buildings that have been carefully restored to offer guests a warm and welcoming stay give you the freedom of managing your own time and living space with all the advantages of a traditional centrally coordinated hotel structure with a single reception always point available for assistance, information, and suggestions. The distributed hotel complex covers picturesque centers in the most beautiful villages of the Carnic Mountain area in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region.

Historical background: the Yalta Accords

A group of men in military uniforms Description automatically generated with medium confidence

British Winston Churchill, U.S. President Franklin Roosevelt, and Joseph Stalin met at Yalta DefenseImagery.mil Pubblico Dominio.

The last time there was a clash of cultures derived from the Yalta Accords between British Prime Minister Winston Churchill, U.S. President Franklin Roosevelt, and Soviet General Secretary Joseph Stalin was when they met at Yalta in February 1945 at the end of WWII.

The Yalta conference is the origin of the Cold War: the division of Europe into opposing blocs due to aggressive Soviet expansionism. According to other analysts, politicians, and historians, it represented the last moment of loyal cooperation between the three great victorious powers of the Second World War instead.

In any case, the Friuli region was assigned to the Western bloc, with an unclear decision for the central Italian town of Trieste, whose fate was decided only after several years.

The pencil with which the borders were drawn probably had a not-very-sharp point and passed over the city of Gorizia without clearly attributing it to either one of the two contending parties.

You can read the details of this recent history in this book in the two chapters on Trieste and Gorizia history.

Day 1: To Aquileia and its Basilica

Map Description automatically generated

From Mestre to Aquileia 1 hour 25 min 114 km

From Venice, we reach Mestre and drive towards Iesolo (27 miles – 43.5 km), continuing towards Trieste, except for a detour (6 miles – 9.5 km to the right) to see the Adriatic port of Caorle and the extremely rare cylindrical bell tower (11th century), like those in Ravenna, next to its Romanesque Cathedral.

The ancient name of Caorle was Caprulae, possibly due to the wild goats that grazed in this area or honor of the pagan goddess Capris; Caorle was founded in the 1st century BC by Romans. Many archeological findings confirm this attribution; for instance, the sacrificial altar called Ara Licovia is housed in the cathedral today. A safe zone between the estuaries of the Livenza and Lemene rivers, Caorle gained importance when people from Concordia Sagittaria arrived as refugees during the Barbarian Invasions.

Caorle

A picture containing outdoor, sky, nature, stone Description automatically generated

Caorle Saint Mary's Chapel - Morningfrost Public Domain

That period dates to a Paleo-Christian church, some remains today are kept in the cathedral's museum. In the 11th century, the cathedral was built, which still stands today. It was once the seat of a bishopric.

During the following centuries, Caorle became one of the nine critical cities of the Republic of Venice; evidence of that effect is the many Istrian flagstones that compose some monuments in the city, and the ancient structure of the city with bridges and canals, like a little Venice.

At the end of the Republic of Venice, with the Napoleonic invasions, Caorle went into decline; the last diocesan bishop of the diocese was moved in 1807 to Chioggia, and the territory of the diocese was attached in 1818 to the Patriarchate of Venice.

Caorle was an important strategic location during World War I until the Italian Army started its counteroffensive from the Piave.

A picture containing tree, outdoor, building, sky Description automatically generated

Caorle Bell-Tower and Church side to the South - Copholon CC BY-SA 4.0

The Cathedral of St. Stephen was built in 1038, an example of Romanesque and the Byzantine-Ravennate style. Its façade is simple; near the central door, there are two bas-reliefs with St. Agatonicus on the left and St. William on the right.

It contains many masterpieces of the Venetian school of art, the most important of which is The Last Supper, painted by Gregorio Lazzarini, master of the famous painter Tiepolo.

Outside the Cathedral, the characteristic bell tower, dating to 1048, rises to 48 meters. It is a typical Romanesque style, but it has a cylindrical structure surmounted by a cone-shaped cusp, making it unique worldwide.

Caorle is a small city but is frequented by tourists in all seasons. The old town center is still structured as a little Venetian corner, with its colored houses, its calli (alleys), and Campbell (squares). During the summer, many family-oriented activities take place on its long beach.

Others are organized in their lagoon, an example of the Venetian lagoon. Many characteristic traditional casoni, the huts where fishermen lived in the winter while fishing, still stand.

Returning to the main road, we turn off only at the junction for Portogruaro, a lovely town with fine Gothic palaces (Palazzo Dal Moro, Palazzo Comunale) and a good Archaeological Museum.

Portogruaro

A group of buildings next to a body of water Description automatically generated with medium confidence

The mills in Portogruaro - Ptakopysk CC BY-SA 3.0

Portogruaro was officially founded in 1140 when the Archbishop of Concordia gave a group of six fishermen the right to settle there and build a river port. A castle had existed on the site as early as the 10th century. In 1420, the Republic of Venice conquered it after centuries under Patria del Friuli.

The town's foundation could be coeval to the Concordia Sagittaria's one. Under the Venetians, the city retained some autonomy and expanded economically until Venice's economic decline from the 17th century onwards.

Following the upheavals of the Napoleonic Wars, Portogruaro was incorporated into the Austrian Empire in 1815. Apart from a brief uprising in 1848, Portogruaro remained under Austrian control until 1866, when it entered the newly unified Kingdom of Italy.

A picture containing sky, outdoor, street, sidewalk Description automatically generated

Portogruaro Repubblica Square - Legba74 CC BY-SA 3.0

Main sites in Portogruaro

Romanesque Abbey of Summaga (11th century). The church, built-in 1211, has an 18th-century façade. The sacellum has frescoes from the 11th–12th centuries depicting the Redemption, The Original Sin, The Punishment of Adam and Eve, the Crucifixion, and the Final Judgement. The apse is also frescoed.

The Roman and medieval city of Concordia Sagittaria was located nearby.

The Acco Super Bulldozer is in Portogruaro as well.

Lignano Sabbiadoro

A picture containing outdoor, sky, beach, shore Description automatically generated

Beach after a thunderstorm, Lignano Sabbiadoro - Nem80 CC BY-SA 3.0

From Portogruaro, we cross the Tagliamento river, enter Friuli and take a detour to visit the beach resort of Lignano Sabbiadoro. It developed in the early 20th century from some private hospitality resorts, which could be reached only by sea at the beginning. The first permanent inhabitants settled in the area in 1931 after draining the nearby marshes. The first road connecting Lignano with the nearby commune of Latisana was built in 1926.

Formerly known as simply Lignano, the name Sabbiadoro (from Sabbia d’Oro, golden sand) was added in 1935 for promotional reasons.

Lignano offers tourists a concentrated mix of services, attractions, and accommodations while keeping in close contact with its surrounding nature, thanks to its recent history as a seaside resort. It has a long beach with excellent sand, six amusement parks dedicated to all age groups, sports structures of recent construction, pedestrian areas for shopping, hotels, villages, and apartments to cater to all needs and demands.

A pool with chairs and umbrellas by it Description automatically generated with low confidence

Lignano Pineta hotel pool - Badener CC BY 3.0

Plenty of discos, pubs, and wine bars are looking onto the sea. There are the aqua-gym courses, the spas, and the entertainment services for children; and to continue the list, the arena for the summer concerts, a Golf Club with 18 holes, bicycle routes, horse riding schools, tennis courts, and over 5,000 berths in 8 modern and fully equipped wharves. All this in a few kilometers of traffic-free and immersed in the greenery of the surroundings.

Lignano is made up of three beautiful cities thought out for holidaymakers: Sabbiadoro: its name (Sabbia d’Oro = golden sand) comes from the unique color of its magnificent sand. Pineta: this village was planned by the architect Marcello D’Olivo and its construction started in the 50s; it has a typical spiral shape so that when walking through it, you are constantly plunged into green areas. Riviera is set in a large pinewood between the beach and the mouth of the Tagliamento river.

Marina and dock

Hotel Italia Palace rooftop Infinity pool - Albergo Italia SRL CC BY-SA 3.0

Lignano's mooring complex (marina) is the largest in Italy and Europe, having more than 5,000 berths. The various structures of Aprilia Marittima, the harbor Marina Punta Faro, and the docks Porto Vecchio, Marina Uno, and Marina Punta Verde are strategically positioned around the peninsula of Lignano, from the Marano lagoon to the river Tagliamento.

Where to eat in Lignano Sabbiadoro

Restaurants in Lignano Sabbiadoro:

La Paella $$ - $$$ Lignano Sabbiadoro, Viale Centrale, 55 | Between Sabbiadoro and Pineta, [phone]. All the staff (except one) are Spanish, so it's a Spanish restaurant. Good paella, good sangria, and plenty of customers.

Ristorante Rosa $$ - $$$ Lignano Sabbiadoro, Via Latisana 156, [phone]. Great food, great selection of wines, warm, friendly atmosphere, and friendly staff. They serve huge portions, be aware before you order.

Acero Rosso $$ - $$$ Lignano Sabbiadoro, Via Latisana 49, [phone]. Local cute, the waiter amiable, very approachable service I have to say, very quick! You can eat well, spending virtually nothing, but you better speak Italian!

Where to stay in Lignano Sabbiadoro

Should you want to extend your trip and spend some time on Lignano beach, you can enjoy accommodation in one of these fine hotels:

Hotel Greif

Hotel Alisei

Hotel Soraya

Hotel Savoia

Hotel Al Cigno

Aquileia

A person taking a picture of a building Description automatically generated with low confidence

Aquileia, Basilic - G. dallorto CC0

We continue driving parallel to the coast, 32 miles (51.50 km) from Portogruaro, in a picturesque setting of pines and cypresses and reach the remains of Aquileia.

Aquileia is a magnificent city founded in Augustus' times. It gained importance after the barbarian invasions in the high Middle Ages. In the 5th century, it became the seat of a patriarchate and Venetian. After reaching its maximum splendor in the 11th century, it fell slowly into decay, finally coming to its present state.

Standing isolated and austere is the mighty Basilica (1031). The interior was built in various