Lonely Planet Devon & Cornwall

By Oliver Berry and Belinda Dixon

Lonely Planet’s Devon & Cornwall is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Surf the coast, enjoy a Cornish pasty, and marvel at Exeter Cathedral; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Devon & Cornwall and begin your journey now!

 

Inside Lonely Planet’s Devon & Cornwall Travel Guide: 

Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

Colour maps and images throughout

Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, transit tips, prices

Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

Over 55 maps 

Covers Exeter, Torquay, Plymouth, Dartmoor, Exmoor, Bodmin, Newquay, Isles of Scilly

The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s Devon & Cornwall, our most comprehensive guide to Devon & Cornwall, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less travelled. 

Looking for more extensive coverage? Check out Lonely Planet’s England for a comprehensive look at all the country has to offer.

 

 

About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day. 

 

'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' – New York Times

 

'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' – Fairfax Media (Australia)

• Language: English
• Publisher: Lonely Planet
• Release date: Oct 1, 2021
• ISBN: 9781838695347

Book preview

Front CoverLonely Planet Logo

Devon & Cornwall

MapHow To Use This eBookFull Page SamplerbuttonCountry Map

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Devon & Cornwall

Devon & Cornwall’s Top 16

Need to Know

If You Like…

Month by Month

Itineraries

Accommodation

Getting Around

Activities

Travel with Children

Regions at a Glance

On The Road

EXETER & EAST DEVON

Exeter

East Devon

Topsham

Exmouth

Sidmouth

Beer

TORQUAY & SOUTH DEVON

Torquay & Around

Torquay

Brixham

Teignmouth

South Devon

Totnes

Dartmouth

Start Bay

Kingsbridge

Salcombe

Hope Cove

Bantham

Bigbury-on-Sea

Dittisham

PLYMOUTH & DARTMOOR

Plymouth

Dartmoor National Park

Tavistock

Princetown

Postbridge

Widecombe-in-the-Moor

Ashburton

Moretonhampstead

Chagford & Around

Lydford

Okehampton

EXMOOR & NORTH DEVON

Exmoor National Park

Dulverton

Dunster

Porlock & Around

Lynton & Lynmouth

North Devon

Ilfracombe

Croyde

Barnstaple

Clovelly

Hartland Peninsula

BODMIN & EAST CORNWALL

Bodmin

Bodmin Moor

The Northern Moor

Central & Eastern Moor

The Southern Moor

SOUTH CORNWALL

Falmouth, Truro & The Roseland

Falmouth

Penryn

Flushing & Mylor

Helford River

Truro

The Roseland

Southeast Cornwall

St Austell & Around

Mevagissey

Fowey

Polperro

Looe

Rame Peninsula

Tamar Valley

NEWQUAY & NORTH CORNWALL

The Atlantic Highway

Bude

Boscastle

Tintagel

Port Isaac

The North Coast

Padstow

Rock

Wadebridge

Newquay

Perranporth

St Agnes

Porthtowan & Portreath

Camborne & Redruth

WEST CORNWALL & THE ISLES OF SCILLY

West Cornwall

St Ives

Gwithian & Godrevy Towans

Penwith Peninsula

Penzance

Newlyn

Mousehole

Marazion

The Lizard

Helston

Porthleven

Gunwalloe

Mullion

Lizard Point

The Helford

Isles of Scilly

St Mary’s

Tresco

Bryher

St Agnes

St Martin’s

UNDERSTAND

Understand Devon & Cornwall

Devon & Cornwall Today

History

Food & Drink

The Arts

Nature & Wildlife

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z

Accommodation

Climate

Dangers & Annoyances

Discount Cards

Electricity

Health

LGBTQ+ Travellers

Internet Access

Maps

Money

Opening Hours

Telephone

Toilets

Tourist Information

Travellers with Disabilities

Transport

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Air

Bus

Car

Sea

Train

GETTING AROUND

Air

Bicycle

Boat

Bus

Car & Motorcycle

Train

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

COVID-19

We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

Welcome to Devon & Cornwall

Welcome to the wild, wild west – a land of gorse-clad cliffs, booming surf, white sand and epic, widescreen skies.

World-Class Coastline

There’s one aspect of the West Country that’s impossible to miss – its epic coastline. Bordered on three sides by sea, the combined coastlines of Devon and Cornwall stretch for more than 530 miles, encompassing plunging cliffs, sandy bays, secluded coves, craggy headlands and postcard-pretty fishing villages aplenty. There’s a beach to suit all tastes, whether you’re here to laze in the sunshine, paddle in the blue or set out in search of the perfect wave. And with a good map and an adventurous spirit, solitude is never far away.

Living History

Whether it’s the silhouette of a crumbling castle on a lonely hilltop, or the spectre of moody mine stacks spiking the horizon, the region’s history plays out wherever you look. From its long legacy of fishing and seafaring to its illustrious mining heritage, Devon and Cornwall are crammed with fascinating reminders of the past. You could while away your days exploring ancient hillforts or mysterious stone circles, marvel at the ambition of the region’s great gardens and country houses, or venture inside a decommissioned tin mine, an underground telegraph station or even a working lighthouse.

The Great Outdoors

Getting active is the best way to experience the region’s landscapes. Hiking trails and cycling paths criss-cross the countryside, and the South West Coast Path winds its way through a kaleidoscope of coastal landscapes. But there are many more ways to get active: coasteering over rocky crags, kayaking down a wooded creek, paddleboarding to a remote cove or stargazing under pitch-black night skies. And there’s a wealth of wildlife to spot too, from Exmoor’s wild deer to the Lizard’s red-billed choughs – and you’ll never forget your first glimpse of a wild dolphin or basking shark.

Food Feasts

Fantastic fish and farm-made cheeses, small-batch beers and world-class wines, Michelin-starred bistros and quirky beach cafes: Devon and Cornwall can now proudly claim to be one of Britain’s most exciting places to eat and drink. There’s a good reason several of the UK’s top chefs have decided to make their home here – some of Britain’s best produce can be found right on their doorstep. Whether it’s cracking open a fresh crab, barbecuing fish on the beach, picnicking on the cliffs or tucking into a traditional Cornish pasty, there’s a wealth of foodie experiences waiting out west.

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Clovelly | ROLF E. STAERK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Why I Love Devon & Cornwall

By Oliver Berry, Writer

Cornwall is my home county, so it’s the place I know better than anywhere. I’ve travelled all over the globe as a travel writer, but there’s something special about the world out west, and I always find myself drawn back. I reckon I’ve visited pretty much every beach there is over the years, but there’s always something new to see: the light, the weather and the changing seasons all bring out a different side to the landscape. For me, the Lizard and the Penwith coastline are every bit as spectacular as any of the more exotic places I’ve visited.

For more about our writers

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Devon & Cornwall’s Top 16

Eden Project

Located inside a Cornish clay pit just outside St Austell, the futuristic biomes of the Eden Project have become an iconic symbol of Cornwall’s renaissance. Housing an outlandish array of plants, trees and botanical curiosities from across the globe, they’re the largest greenhouses on earth, and internationally famous (they even appeared in a Bond film). They’re great to visit in all weather, and there’s something going on whenever you come – whether it’s a spring flower show, a summer gig, an autumn food fest or a wintertime ice-skate. Don’t miss it.

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RUTH BROWN / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Isles of Scilly

Scattered across the Atlantic, 28 miles from Land’s End, this remote island archipelago is Cornwall’s answer to the Caribbean. Of the 140-odd islands, only five are permanently inhabited, leaving the rest to seabirds, seals and the occasional basking shark. Blessed with a laid-back lifestyle, electric-blue water and some of Britain’s best beaches, the islands are hard to leave – especially once your internal clock has switched over to Scilly time. You can visit them in a day, but they’ll soak up as much time as you can spare.

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View of Bryher from Tresco | NEIL DUGGAN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Dartmoor National Park

Bleakly bewitching, the heather-clad heaths and granite tors of Dartmoor have an edge of wildness about them that feels quite different from the rest of Devon. It’s a place where nature still holds sway, and the only sign of human habitation is a few scattered farmhouses and drystone walls. Hiking and biking are the main draws here, and it’s one of the few areas in Britain where wild camping is still legal, where you can pitch a tent just about anywhere and sleep out under wild skies.

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ANDREW PYM / EYEEM / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

St Ives

When it comes to seaside settings, St Ives is a world-beater. Tucked in beside a grand curve of coastline, with a jumble of slate roofs, narrow lanes and golden beaches, it’s quite simply one of Cornwall’s most beautiful sights. The town is famous for its artistic connections, too: Barbara Hepworth established an artists’ colony here in the 1930s, and the town is also home to the Tate St Ives, the far-west wing of the renowned national gallery, which has recently been blessed with a multimillion-pound extension.

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BRIAN S / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Exeter Cathedral

A heap of Gothic grandeur in the centre of Devon’s oldest city, this mighty cathedral is the region’s foremost house of worship, and its greatest sight. Largely built during the 13th century, its most notable features are the decorative facade and a fabulous vaulted ceiling – but it’s the chance to climb up the towers that excites most visitors. Unsurprisingly, there’s a wraparound view from the top, stretching right across Exeter; on a clear day, you might even spy Dartmoor and the Devon coast.

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JULIAN ELLIOTT PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

South West Coast Path

No matter where you go in Devon and Cornwall, you’ll never be far from the South West Coast Path. Winding through a string of cliffs, coves, villages, peninsulas and headlands, this fabulous footpath is one of the region’s must-experience attractions. Hard-core hikers tackle the whole route, a truly epic ramble of more than 630 miles that also takes in the coastlines of Dorset and Somerset. Others focus just on the Devon or Cornwall sections, but really, an hour’s stroll is every bit as stunning.

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IAN WOOLCOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

St Michael’s Mount

Cornwall’s answer to Mont St-Michel occupies a rocky island opposite the old harbour of Penzance. The abbey was originally built by Benedictine monks, but has served many roles over the years (including a coastal fort, stately home and even an ammunition dump). It’s now the family home of the St Aubyn family, although it’s officially owned by the National Trust. Don’t miss the chance to walk across to the island along its famous cobbled causeway, which only reveals itself at low tide.

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JOHN FINNEY PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Lost Gardens of Heligan

From colourful magnolias to rare rhododendrons, the West Country’s gardens bloom with horticultural interest. Its temperate climate and subtropical valleys provide the perfect growing conditions for exotic trees, plants and flowers, including many species that can’t survive anywhere else in Britain. Each has its own special attraction: the Lost Gardens of Heligan are particularly impressive, forgotten for decades and now stunningly restored by a team of dedicated gardeners, with kitchen gardens, trimmed lawns, outdoor artworks and wild jungle valleys to explore.

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KHD / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Exmoor National Park

Britain’s smallest national park, Exmoor straddles the Devon–Dorset border. While it might not quite have the epic quality of Dartmoor, Exmoor has charms all of its own, from a unique water-powered railway at Lynton to the panoramic viewpoint of Dunkery Beacon. But, as always, it’s the landscape that’s Exmoor’s selling point: it’s a photogenic patchwork of medieval fields, ancient oak woods and plunging coombes (valleys), and is one of the best places in Britain to spot herds of wild red deer.

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MIKE CHARLES / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

The Lizard

This peculiarly named peninsula juts out from Cornwall’s southern coastline, and was notorious as one of Cornwall’s most treacherous headlands – countless ships met their end on its hidden reefs and inky cliffs down through the centuries. These days it’s a place to wander the cliffs, explore the remote coves and watch wildlife – if you’re really lucky, you might spot Cornwall’s symbolic bird, the red-billed chough, which is thriving again here after years of decline. Bring binoculars – and swimming gear.

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MATT MUNRO / LONELY PLANET ©

Top Experiences

Minack Theatre

Etched in the Penwith cliffs above a cauldron of booming surf, this eye-popping clifftop amphitheatre has to be one of the most memorable places to watch a play anywhere in the world. Pinch yourself and you could be forgiven for thinking you’d been transported back in time to ancient Greece, but it was actually a 20th-century project, dreamt up and built by a lady called Rowena Cade. Stone seats rise in steep tiers around the stage, and the backdrop is sea, sky and circling gulls. It’s a dream.

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DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Dartmouth

Nestled in the heart of the South Hams, this handsome port has a seafaring history stretching back more than eight centuries, and it’s still home to Britain’s top naval academy. It’s a glorious setting, surrounded by green fields, rolling hills and a picturesque river, and a great base for exploring the rest of the South Hams – from Agatha Christie’s holiday home to the alternative town of Totnes and the many pretty coves of the south coast. It even has its own paddle steamer.

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ALAN COPSON / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Gwithian & Godrevy Towans

Cornwall’s north coast is a non-stop string of golden beaches, stretching all the way from Bude to the very end of the land near Sennen. There’s a reason to visit every one if you can: some are brash and breezy, others are quiet and secluded, and can only be reached via a walk along the coast path. For all-round scenic splendour, the side-by-side beaches of Gwithian and Godrevy are hard to beat: together they form more than 3 miles of sand, and are beloved by everyone from bodyboarders to dog-walkers.

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Lighthouse on Godrevy Island | JAMES PEARCE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Coastal Adventures

Devon and Cornwall have some of the finest coastline anywhere in Europe, so they’re a great place for sea-themed adventures. Surfing is the traditional choice, with the epicentre in Newquay, although Croyde, Bude, Padstow, Perranporth and Sennen are all prime spots too. And if you really get the watersports bug, there are plenty more activities to try, like stand-up paddleboarding, kayaking, coasteering and more. And yes, since you ask, the water’s a bit cold – but with a decent wetsuit, you won’t feel the chill.

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Croyde | SUSAN WALKER / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top Experiences

Clovelly

Tumbling down a formidably steep hillside on the north Devon coast, the improbably pretty village of Clovelly feels like a step back into a more pastoral time. Bisected by a cobbled street lined by cob houses and fishers’ cottages, it’s a vision of village life that could have been lifted straight out of a film set. It’s a place that is awash with photo opportunities, especially in the late evening when the winding lanes are at their quietest and quaintest.

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HELEN HOTSON / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Top Experiences

Cornish Pasties

Stuffed with beef, swede, potatoes and onions, wrapped in pastry and crimped on the side (not the top!), pasties are Cornwall’s original takeaway snack, developed as a portable lunchbox for men working in the local fields and tin mines. Now awarded officially protected status, nothing tastes quite like a true pasty that’s been made in Cornwall according to a time-honoured recipe. You’ll find them for sale at bakeries and cafes all over the county. Everyone has their favourite, but for us, it’s Ann’s Pasties that takes the prize.

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MATT MUNRO / LONELY PLANET ©

Need to Know

For more information, see Survival Guide

Currency

Pound (£)

Language

English & Cornish

Visas

Visas to enter the UK are not needed for stays of up to six months. The country is not a member of the Schengen Zone.

Money

ATMs are widely available; Visa and Mastercard credit cards are widely accepted, but other credit cards less so.

Mobile Phones

The UK uses the GSM 900/1800 network; it’s compatible with Europe, Australia and New Zealand, but not with the North American GSM 1900. Check with your provider on compatibility issues.

Time

Greenwich Mean Time (GMT); British Summer Time (BST; GMT plus one hour, April to October)

When to Go

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High Season (Jun–Aug)

A Prices are at their highest, and hotels, B&Bs and campsites are full.

A Traffic and crowds are to be expected, especially in July and August.

A Packed calendar of festivals and events.

Shoulder (Mar–May & Sep–Oct)

A Peak prices drop and seasonal deals are available.

A Weather can be more settled than in summer.

A Quietest during school term; half-terms are always busy.

Low Season (Nov–Feb)

A Rates for B&Bs and hotels are at their lowest.

A Some sights and attractions close or operate shorter hours.

A Accommodation and trains are booked out for Christmas and New Year.

Useful Websites

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

Simply Scilly (www.visitislesofscilly.com) The lowdown on the Isles of Scilly.

Traveline SW (www.travelinesw.org.uk) Public transport info for the southwest.

Visit Cornwall (www.visitcornwall.co.uk) The official tourist site: accommodation, activities and more.

Visit Devon (www.visitdevon.co.uk) Devon’s official tourist site with accommodation listings, events, activities and more.

Important Numbers

Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than £90

A Hostel bed: £15–25

A Campsite pitch: £10–20

A Public transport: £5–10

A Pasty and a pint: £6–8

Midrange: £90–150

A Double room in a B&B: £90–120

A Lunch and dinner in local restaurants: £20–30

A Admissions and activities: £10–20

A Petrol per day: £10–20

Top End: More than £150

A Room in a luxury hotel: from £150

A Meals in top-end restaurants: £50–70

Opening Hours

Opening hours vary throughout the year, especially in rural and coastal areas.

Banks 9.30am to 4pm or 5pm Monday to Friday; some open 9.30am to 1pm Saturday.

Pubs and Bars Noon to 11pm Monday to Saturday (some till midnight or 1am Friday and Saturday), 12.30pm to 11pm Sunday.

Shops 9am to 5.30pm or 6pm Monday to Saturday, and often 11am to 5pm Sunday.

Restaurants Lunch is noon to 3pm, dinner 6pm to 9pm or 10pm.

Arriving in Devon & Cornwall

Exeter Airport Bus 56/56A/56B (£2.40, 30 minutes) runs to Exeter St David’s train station, via the city centre and Exeter bus station, hourly between around 6.30am and 6.30pm. A taxi fare to the city centre typically costs around £35.

Newquay Cornwall Airport First Kernow bus 56 (£3, 30 minutes, hourly Monday to Saturday, three on Sunday) links Newquay with the airport. Services run from 7am to around 5.30pm. Bus 56 also runs between the airport and Padstow (£4, one hour, same frequency). A taxi will cost £15 to £25 from Newquay town centre.

Plymouth Ferry port Bus 34/34A (£1.20, four minutes, every 30 minutes) goes past the ferry port from the city centre. It runs from around 6am Monday to Saturday (7.30am Sunday) to 9.30pm (8.30pm on Sunday). A taxi will cost around £6.

Top Tips

Use public transport Traffic can be a problem, but there are some superb train lines and cycle tracks to explore – not to mention the coast path.

Consider National Trust membership Gets you free entry to many estates and gardens.

Pack sandals A pair of strapped multi-activity sandals are perfect for clambering over rocks and walking on hot sand.

Don’t feed seagulls These birds are becoming a menace in many areas – don’t feed them scraps, and beware dive-bombs.

Buy a wetsuit and snorkel If you’re planning on a lot of beach time, having your own gear is a wise investment.

For much more on getting around, see here & here

If You Like…

Views

For every knockout view in the southwest, there’s another waiting just around the corner. Don’t forget to pack the wide-angle lens.

Land’s End As far west as you can get on mainland Britain: next stop, the Scilly Isles.

Brown Willy The highest hill in Cornwall, in the middle of Bodmin Moor.

Carn Brea Panoramic views from a craggy hilltop in the heart of Cornwall’s mining country.

Exeter Cathedral Climb the spire for a bird’s-eye perspective on Exeter.

Start Point A pocket of Devon wildness with a picturesque lighthouse.

Bedruthan Steps Look out over a panorama of rock towers.

The Jurassic Coast Rust-red, fossil-rich cliffs, best viewed between Beer and Branscombe.

Lizard Point The most southerly headland in Britain, craggy and spectacular.

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Start Point | PANGLOSSIAN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Beaches

When it comes to beaches, few corners of Britain can match Devon and Cornwall. There are hundreds to explore, whether you’re planning to paddle in the shallows, delve into the rock pools or don a wetsuit and brave the waves.

Sennen A far-west beach with a strong surfing culture – and quieter than Newquay.

Perranporth Over a mile of family-friendly sands on Cornwall’s north coast.

Porthminster The biggest of three sandy beaches just a stone’s throw from St Ives.

Kynance Cove The Lizard’s postcard cove, framed by cliffs and islands.

Porthcurno A perfect pocket of sand beneath the Minack Theatre.

Croyde Surf-central in Devon, and just as exciting as Fistral.

Bantham South Devon’s finest overlooks Burgh Island.

Crackington Haven A craggy, wild beach near Bude.

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Kynance Cove | IAN WOOLCOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Gardens

The southwest’s balmy temperatures mean many plant species flourish here that simply wouldn’t survive anywhere else in Britain. Some gardens are well known, others a local secret.

Abbey Garden A horticultural wonderland on the faraway island of Tresco.

Trebah Garden Giant ferns, exotic trees and gunnera galore in a subtropical valley near Falmouth.

Tremenheere Sculpture Garden A peaceful garden near Penzance, dotted with sculptures and artworks.

RHS Rosemoor Showpiece garden covering 26 hectares, run by the prestigious Royal Horticultural Society.

Broomhill Sculpture Gardens Crazy artworks litter a 4-hectare valley near Barnstaple.

Dartington Estate This wonderful estate near Totnes encompasses formal gardens, woodlands and river walks.

Outdoor Adventures

Hiking, surfing and swimming are the most obvious ways to get out and active, but they’re certainly not the only ones.

Kayaking Pilot a kayak down the tranquil Fowey River.

Snorkelling Swim with wild seals off the Isles of Scilly.

Stand-up paddleboarding Steer your board around the blue waters of Bantham.

Coasteering Clamber the north-coast cliffs, then plunge in for a dip.

Wild swimming Brave the Dartmoor cold in a stream, lake or pool.

Rock-climbing Climb up a quarry face near Falmouth, then abseil back down.

Zorbing Roll down a Cornish hillside in a plastic bubble. Repeat.

Zip-lining Reach breakneck speeds above a flooded quarry near Liskeard.

Eating Like a Local

Cornwall and Devon have forged ahead with their foodie fare, and there are scores of intriguing places where you can eat 100% locally.

Hidden Hut Dining on the beach courtesy of this WWII-era hut.

Cornish Food Box Company A one-stop shop for Cornish treats.

Trevaskis Farm Pick-your-own fruit, cream teas, local veg – this place does it all.

Philps Premier for pasties, according to the locals.

Glorious Oyster Never shucked an oyster? Now’s your chance.

Crab Shed Try fresh-picked crab by the Salcombe seaside.

Jelbert’s Ices This ice-cream maker is so good, it only makes one flavour.

W Harvey Pick up your own crab fresh off the Newlyn day-boats.

Historic Houses

Country houses litter the countryside, a reminder of the days when Devon and Cornwall were the playground of the landed gentry. These days, many are owned by the National Trust.

St Michael’s Mount Cornwall’s island abbey, star of a million postcards.

Lanhydrock Quintessential English Victoriana, from smoking rooms to cavernous kitchens.

Antony House Marvel at the outlandish garden topiary at this house on Cornwall’s Rame Peninsula.

Godolphin This huge estate near the Lizard is currently a restoration work-in-progress.

Arlington Court A Regency house known for its fabulous collection of horse-drawn carriages.

Overbeck’s Wander round the fantasy pad of wacky inventor Otto Overbeck.

Knightshayes Court The Middle Ages meets Victorian excess at this over-the-top country estate.

Coleton Fishacre Glorious art deco house in south Devon, with gardens to match.

Wild Places

If you’re craving a bit of wildness far from the madding crowd, there are plenty of places where you can find solitude, even in the height of summer.

Penwith Moors Few people explore these wild western moors, with their hill forts and ancient monuments.

Scilly’s Outer Islands The uninhabited islands of Scilly are 100% people-free.

Golitha Falls Seek out a fairy-tale cascade on the edge of Bodmin Moor.

Lundy Island Two hours from north Devon, this island is a paradise for wildlife-watchers.

Wistman’s Wood This mysterious patch of ancient oak forest on Dartmoor is rich in myths and legends.

Braunton Burrows Well off the beaten track, this is Devon’s largest dune system.

Looe Island A wildlife haven that’s only a short boat-trip from Looe.

Helford River Steer a kayak downriver in search of Frenchman’s Creek.

Camping & Glamping

Nothing beats a night under the stars, and you’ll find superb campsites scattered all over Devon and Cornwall – from basic tap-and-toilet sites to glamping spectaculars.

Treloan (www.coastalfarmholidays.co.uk) Spacious camping on the rural Roseland.

Henry’s ( www.henryscampsite.co.uk) Wacky, wonderful, and just a walk from Lizard village.

Cornish Tipi Holidays (www.cornishtipiholidays.co.uk) The original tipi site in Cornwall, in a delightful wooded setting.

EkoPod (www.ekopod.co.uk)Bed down in a geodesic dome near Bodmin Moor.

Blackdown Yurts (www.blackdownyurts.co.uk) Posh camping, complete with wood burners and compost loos.

Wood Life (www.thewoodlife.org) Woodland camping in a luxury handmade tent.

Vintage Vardos (www.fishertonfarm.com) Three restored gypsy wagons on a private Devon farm.

Dartmoor Wild Camping Pick your spot, pitch your tent, and you’ll have Dartmoor to yourself.

Dartmoor is the only place in England where wild camping is legal, but even here there are rules – consult the Dartmoor National Park Authority website (www.dartmoor.gov.uk) for details.

Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

‘Obby ‘Oss Day, May

Flora Day, May

Eden Sessions, July

Port Eliot Festival, July

British Fireworks Championships, August

January

Winter still has the southwest firmly in its grip; it’s usually cold, wet and sometimes snowy, although the dreary days are often interspersed with the occasional cold, crisp bit of winter sunshine.

February

February tends to be a grim, grey month, and it’s another likely time of the year for snowfall, especially on the high moors of Dartmoor, Exmoor and Bodmin Moor.

March

Daffodils and snowdrops in the hedgerows provide the first hint that winter might be on its way out, while Shrove Tuesday marks the beginning of the Easter festivities.

1 St Columb Hurling

An ancient Cornish free-for-all in which the townsfolk of St Columb chase around town in pursuit of a silver ball. It kicks off on Shrove Tuesday and, yes, it’s as dangerous as it looks.

z St Piran’s Day

Various events take place on 5 March in honour of Cornwall’s patron saint, St Piran. One of the largest is a mass march across the sands of Perranporth to the tumbledown chapel known as St Piran’s Oratory, buried among the dunes.

April

The weather’s usually warming up by April, and there are often periods of spring sunshine. Roads and sights are busy around Easter.

5 Porthleven Food Festival

More than 30,000 people throng to this harbour town in south Cornwall for this big food fair, hosting chef’s demos, discussions and local produce galore. It’s grown from humble beginnings into one of the southwest’s largest food fairs.

2 World Pilot Gig Championships

This racing regatta on Scilly in late April or early May revolves around pilot gigs, or long rowboats. Teams come from across the world to compete, and accommodation is booked out across St Mary’s.

May

Light crowds and settled weather, as well as a couple of ancient festivals that date back to pagan times, make May one of the best months to visit.

z ‘Obby ‘Oss Day

Padstow’s chaotic, colourful May Day festival involves two colourful ‘osses’ (blue and red) twirling around the town’s streets. It’s riotous, raucous, and royally good fun.

z Flora Day

Townsfolk take to Helston’s streets for their annual street fair, and enact the age-old Furry Dance – a waltz-like dance accompanied by its own special tune.

z Devon County Show

In mid-May Devon’s farmers and food producers congregate for this annual agricultural show, a key event on the county calendar since 1872.

2 Polo on the Beach

In mid-May, professional polo players gallop across the sands of Watergate Bay, followed by late-night concerts and fireworks over the sea.

3 Fowey Festival

This lit-fest began as the Daphne du Maurier Festival, but it’s now a more general celebration of writing and writers.

June

Usually a good month to travel, with reliable weather, some interesting events and relatively few visitors – at least compared to next month.

z Royal Cornwall Show

Cornwall’s biggest agri-cultural show (www.royalcornwallshow.org)happens in early June on a purpose-built showground just outside Wadebridge. Expect food stalls, cooking displays and parades of prize-winning livestock.

z Golowan Festival

Penzance’s big summer party and arts festival runs over several days in mid-June. Music, parades, plays, parties – and an almighty knees-up on Mazey Day.

1 Falmouth International Sea Shanty Festival

Hooray, and up she rises... Sea shanties fill the air in Falmouth in this mid-June singing celebration. Bottles of rum and pieces of eight optional.

3 The Great Estate

A new event at Scorrier House near Redruth, The Great Estate (www.greatestatefestival.co.uk) hosts a silent disco, a gin garden and camel racing. Oh, and bands too.

July

Temperatures are hotting up by mid-July, and so are the crowds. The weather is usually quite fine, but there are no guarantees – cloudy days alternate with clear blue skies.

3 Eden Sessions

Major music acts play against the backdrop of the biomes across several weekends during the Eden Sessions (www.edensessions.com). Elton John, Blondie and Madness are alumni.

3 Port Eliot Festival

Blending literature, arts, dance, poetry and live music, this magical festival takes place in the sweeping grounds of a Cornish country house in St Germans, Cornwall.

3 Tropical Pressure

Reggae and world music are the focus for Tropical Pressure (www.tropicalpressure.co.uk) in July, hosted at the Mount Pleasant Eco Park near Porthtowan.

August

Peak season: on sunny days, it can seem as if half of Britain has descended on the southwest’s shores. Expect heavy traffic, human and automotive, as well as unpredictable weather.

3 Sidmouth Folk Week

Held in the first week of August since 1955, Sidmouth Folk Week attracts top names from the folk world.

3 Boardmasters

Newquay’s major music festival. Big-name bands take to various stages around Watergate Bay near Newquay, alongside surf and skate competitions.

z Dartmouth Royal Regatta

Yachties and sailing enthusiasts all make a beeline for Dartmouth’s regatta, which also hosts a shopping marquee and music stage.

z Torbay Royal Regatta

Sailing boats, rowing races, a fun-run and a cracking fireworks display mark this water-focused regatta in late August.

1 British Fireworks Championships

Plymouth’s skies are filled with bursts of colour for this two-night fireworks contest in mid-August. It’s spectacular, loud and best of all, completely free.

z Beer Regatta

The Beer Regatta (www.beer-regatta.co.uk) celebrates the Beer village’s sea connections. The festival highlight is the Beer Lugger races, in which boats battle it out in the bay.

September

The summer hordes have mostly left for home by September, which makes this a good month to explore if you’re allergic to crowds.

3 St Ives September Festival

A lively mixed-arts festival encompassing literature, music, theatre and more, held in various venues around St Ives in early September.

5 Great Cornish Food Festival

Culinary-themed celebration in a marquee on Truro’s Lemon Quay. Watch chefs work their gastronomic magic, and meet some of Cornwall’s top food producers.

3 Looe Music Festival

From small beginnings, Looe Music Festival (www.looemusic.co.uk) has grown into a major event, attracting acts like The Jesus and Mary Chain, Happy Mondays and Bryan Ferry.

October

October paints the West Country in autumnal colours, making this a great month to visit the region’s landscaped gardens and country estates.

5 Falmouth Oyster Festival

Mass oyster eating on Falmouth’s quayside, plus cookery demos, boat races and concerts. Held in late October.

November

There’s nearly always a nip in the air by November, so wrap up warmly and bring a brolly.

1 Bonfire Night

You’ll be able to find a fireworks display wherever you are on or around 5 November: Plymouth, Exeter, Newquay and Truro all put on a decent show.

z Flaming Tar Barrels

The unhinged locals of Ottery St Mary carry flaming tar barrels through packed-out streets on 5 November, while paramedics and health-and-safety officials watch in horror.

December

Cold nights, late-night shopping and street processions mark the festive month of December: chestnuts and mulled wine are essential.

z City of Lights

Huge wicker lanterns are paraded through the streets of Truro to celebrate the start of the festive season at this community festival in early December.

2 Time of Gifts

The Eden Project builds a giant ice-rink beside the biomes in December, and hosts a range of festive events, from food-tasting to wreath-making.

1 Mousehole Christmas Lights

The tiny Cornish fishing village of Mousehole has a long tradition of lighting up the festive season in stunning style.

z Montol Festival

This pagan-themed festival in Penzance celebrates the winter solstice, with a masked parade overseen by the spooky Lord of Misrule.

Itineraries

North Coast Explorer