Vegetables on Fire: 50 Vegetable-Centered Meals from the Grill
By Brooke Lewy and Erin Kunkel
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About this ebook
The first of its kind, this cookbook features sixty recipes that star vegetables caramelized on a grill and transformed into satisfying, flavor-forward meals. Cauliflower “steaks,” broccoli burgers, and beets that slow-smoke like a brisket are just three of the meaty but meatless meals for your next cookout.
More than thirty stunning images showcase the beauty and variety of these recipes, each of which includes instructions for charcoal and gas grilling as well as using a grill pan on the stovetop or under the broiler. For vegetarians, those who love to grill, and anyone looking for more creative ways to prepare vegetables, this handbook is a must.
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Book preview
Vegetables on Fire - Brooke Lewy
For Scott and Sammy
Text copyright © 2017 by Brooke Lewy.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher.
ISBN 9781452158310 (epub, mobi)
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Lewy, Brooke, author. | Kunkel, Erin, photographer.
Title: Vegetables on fire : 50 vegetable-centered meals from the grill / by Brooke Lewy ; photographs by Erin Kunkel.
Description: San Francisco : Chronicle Books, [2017] | Includes index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2016039241 | ISBN 9781452158242 (hardcover : alk. paper)
Subjects: LCSH: Barbecuing. | Cooking (Vegetables) | LCGFT: Cookbooks.
Classification: LCC TX840.B3 L4615 2017 | DDC 641.6/5—dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016039241
Photographs by Erin Kunkel
Food styling by Lillian Kang
Prop styling by Claire Mack
Designed by Alice Chau
Chronicle books and gifts are available at special quantity discounts to corporations, professional associations, literacy programs, and other organizations. For details and discount information, please contact our premiums department at corporatesales@chroniclebooks.com or at 1-800-759-0190.
Chronicle Books LLC
680 Second Street
San Francisco, California 94107
www.chroniclebooks.com
CONTENTS
8INTRODUCTION
9TECHNIQUES, TIPS, AND
EQUIPMENT
9KNIFE WORK
9ABOUT OIL AND SALT
9EQUIPMENT
13SLATHERS, DIPS, DRIZZLES, AND BASICS
14Lemon Vinaigrette, Fresh and Grilled
15Sesame Apple Vinaigrette
16Green Goddess Dressing
18Chimichurri
19Classic Basil Pesto
20Classic Aioli and Variations
21AIOLI VARIATIONS
23Fire-Roasted Ketchup
24Charred Beet Hummus
27Tahini Sauce
28Smoky Eggplant Dip
29Teriyaki Sauce
30Pickles Two Ways
30PICKLED ONIONS OR SHALLOTS
30PICKLED CARROTS
31Basil Oil
32Roasted Garlic
33Fried Shallots
34Charred Chickpeas
36Grilled Bread
37Grilled Croutons
38Two Methods for Grilled Bread Crumbs
39Toasted Nuts and Seeds
41TOMATOES, BRASSICAS, SQUASH, AND LEAVES
42Burst and Fresh Tomatoes with Halloumi and Basil Oil
44Grilled Shakshuka
47Grilled Gazpacho
48Romanesco with Romesco Sauce
50ROMESCO SAUCE
51Broccoli Steaks with Cheddar Beer Dipping Sauce and Grilled Onion Rings
54Charred Broccoli and White Bean Crostini
55WHITE BEAN PURÉE
56Cauliflower Roast with Anchovy Bread Crumbs
58Cauliflower Steaks with Tahini
59Eggplant Rollatini
61Eggplant Steaks with Miso
62Eggplant Sandwiches with Pickles and Hard-Boiled Eggs
64Ratatouille
67Zucchini Tartines with Goat Cheese and Pickled Carrots
68Moroccan-Spiced Squash Fattoush with Lentils
70Coconut Curry Squash
71Squash Tacos with Black Beans, Pickled Onions, and Pepita Salsa
73PEPITA SALSA
74Tofu Tacos with Creamy Cabbage Slaw
75CREAMY CHIPOTLE SLAW
76Red Cabbage with Peanut Dressing and Grilled Pineapple
78SPICY PEANUT DRESSING
79Brussels Sprouts with Herbs and Fried Shallots
79FISH SAUCE VINAIGRETTE
80Radicchio Salad with Oranges and Pecorino
82ANCHOVY RED WINE VINAIGRETTE
83Chicories with Anchovy Vinaigrette and Eggs
85Kale Chips with Grilled Onion Dip
86Caesar with Grilled Croutons
89GREEN VEGETABLES, PEAS, BEANS, AND GRAINS
91Asparagus and Green Beans with Farro, Peas, and Ricotta Salata
92Asparagus with Fried Eggs and Garlic Chips
94Artichokes with Lemon-Caper Aioli
97Sugar Snap Peas with Horseradish Gremolata and Radishes
98Charred Green Beans with Tahini
99Charred Edamame with Sesame, Ginger, and Soy
101Charred Leeks with Blue Cheese and Walnuts
102Mushroom-Farro Veggie Burgers
104Falafel-Style Veggie Burgers
106Quinoa Tabbouleh Stuffed Peppers
109CORN, MUSHROOMS, ROOTS, AND BREAD
110Mexican Street Corn
113Corn Salad with Miso and Fresh and Grilled Cucumbers
114Mushroom and Tofu Spring Rolls
115PEANUT DIPPING SAUCE
117Mixed Grill Mushrooms over Polenta
118Teriyaki Mushroom Bowls with Togarashi
119Carrots with Miso Butter, Chickpeas, and Cilantro
120Carrots with Grilled Citrus, Avocado, Pistachios, and All of the Seeds
123Smoked Beets with Dill Yogurt Dressing and Rye Bread Crumbs
126Fennel with Herbed Ricotta
128Baby Turnips and Greens with Carrot Ginger Dressing
129CARROT GINGER DRESSING
130Potato Salad with White Beans, Arugula Pesto, and Pickled Shallots
132Gribiche Potato Salad
133Patatas Bravas Fries
134Sweet Potato Fries with Tamarind Date Ketchup
135Crostini with Grilled Olive Tapenade, Citrus, and Goat Cheese
136Flatbread and Suggested Toppings
137MEDIUM
137HARDER
138TOPPINGS
139ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
140INDEX
145About the Author
INTRODUCTION
There’s a promise that goes along with grilling— sunshine, fresh air, yellow mustard, ice-cold beers. Friends gather around and toast the cook as he or she loads the table with piles of saucy chicken and snappy hot dogs. And then, usually on the side, slices of eggplant and zucchini wanly line a plate. Those vegetables are limp, and maybe a little slippery. They’re not intentionally bland; it was just that no one really thought about them.
Here’s the thing: grilled vegetables don’t have to be uninspired. Whether you’re a vegetarian or just someone who’s crowding more vegetables onto your plate, here’s a little nudging to give produce its time on the grill. For whatever reason—personal health, skepticism toward conventional cattle farming, a tight budget, a killer farmers’ market nearby—a vegetable-centric way of eating is becoming the norm for so many, and it can absolutely move outside to become part of your summer grilling fare. The following pages marry great vegetables, the grill, and a lot of supporting flavors—tahini, tons of fresh herbs, miso, tangy vinegars—to create dozens of delicious, satisfying meals that stand on their own.
And here’s the other thing: grilling should be casual. It should be done with a glass of rosé in hand, some good tunes, and friends who feel like family. The recipes in this book embrace that summer vibe. They’re not fussy, and many of the parts and pieces can be made ahead of time. They recognize that every grill is different, and they acknowledge that, yes, sometimes what you really need is a delicious chimichurri to go with that simply grilled eggplant. They understand that if you’re grilling, you definitely don’t want to turn on the oven (and maybe not even the stove), and you certainly want to wash as few dishes as possible. (Remember that glass of rosé?) We all know that some of the best things about grilling, aside from that smoky, crisp-edged flavor, are that your house stays cool and you don’t have pots and pans to scrub when everyone goes home.
Grilling vegetables inherently makes them a little softer and sweeter, and of course, smoky. What all of these veggies, from bright carrots to halved heads of romaine, want to round them out is salt; something with a little fat, like miso butter, feta, or lemon aioli; and some crunch, like toasted nuts or golden croutons. Every recipe here creates that satisfying balance and stands as a lunch or dinner on its own. Go ahead: put these vegetables at the center of your grill; they can take it.
TECHNIQUES, TIPS, AND EQUIPMENT
KNIFE WORK
Whether your vegetables are from the grocery store or your local farmers’ market, cutting them to the proper shape is important, since, for the most part, you want them to cook evenly. Generally, grilling vegetables means short cooking times, and a little more care in the knife work can mean the difference between delightfully crisp-tender vegetables and vegetables that are blackened on the outside and raw on the inside. A good, sharp knife makes cutting and slicing the vegetables a more pleasant process.
ABOUT OIL AND SALT
Some recipes call for olive oil, some for vegetable oil, such as canola. For coating the vegetables before grilling, both oils work just fine. The recipes aim for consistency, so you don’t have to have two oils cluttering your kitchen counter at the same time. For dishes where the oil is included in a dressing or used in a way other than coating produce before grilling, be sure to use the one called for and the amount specified, as it will affect the flavor. In almost every recipe, the vegetables need to be coated in oil before finding their way to the grill. This not only adds flavor and prevents sticking, but it keeps them from drying out. The amount of oil necessary is approximate; you just need enough to lightly coat the whole vegetable.
This book uses two kinds of salt: one for cooking and one for finishing. Nearly all of the salt called for is kosher salt. It’s kosher salt that we use to season before any of the veggies hit the grill, and to adjust the flavor of dressings and dips. The other salt called for is finishing salt. Kosher salt first: the recipes here were developed and tested with Diamond Crystal brand kosher salt, which is less dense and salty than both Morton brand kosher salt and table salt. If you’re cooking with either of the two latter types, cut the salt in half and use a light hand when sprinkling your pre-grilled vegetables; you can always add more later. Like coating your vegetables with oil, seasoning them before they hit the grill is important. Amounts are approximate; a pinch is about ¹/8 teaspoon. Hold your hand high—a foot above the food—and sprinkle salt in a light, even layer. Now, finishing salt: several of the dishes in this book also call for finishing salt, like Maldon Sea Salt, which has larger, softer flakes, to be added as a final step before serving for a last hit of flavor and some nice, gentle crunch.
EQUIPMENT
Get to know your grill. If you’re using a charcoal grill, try skipping the lighter fluid and using a chimney. Pile your charcoal in the top, light two or three crumpled sheets of newspaper in the bottom, and let the packed chimney sit for 10 minutes on the bottom grill rack until the coals are glowing orange. Next, carefully dump the coals onto the lower rack of the grill and replace the top rack. Let the top rack heat for 5 minutes or so and then scrape the grate clean with a wire brush. Sometimes, oiling your grate is necessary; most often oiling the vegetables is enough to prevent sticking. If you do need to oil the grate, using tongs, dip a rolled-up paper towel or the cut side of half an onion in oil and rub it on the grate. If you’re going for a quick char, add the vegetables now; otherwise, which will be most cases, let the coals die down a bit. If you’re planning to grill for a while, just after you dump your coals into the grill, add another layer of fresh, unlit coals to the grill on top of the lit layer, and use a grill shovel to mix the lit and unlit