Yelp Help: How to Write Great Online Restaurant Reviews
By Hanna Raskin
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About this ebook
Yelp Help, written by professional food critic Hanna Raskin (Seattle Weekly, Dallas Observer), is the first how-to book for online restaurant reviewers. Whether they’re motivated to climb the Yelp ranks or assist their fellow eaters by writing clearer, fairer reviews, citizen critics will find the tools they need in Yelp Help, a comprehensive guide to reporting, conceptualizing and writing compelling short-form restaurant reviews.
In addition to covering basic skills such as choosing the right adjective and describing dishes in objective detail, Yelp Help delves into restaurant operations and the history of food criticism. Enhanced by copious excerpts from professional and civilian reviews; a review meal checklist; an overview of the eight most common online reviewing errors and handy practice exercises, this book is sure to become an indispensable resource for serious users of Yelp, TripAdvisor and Urbanspoon.
Hanna Raskin
Hanna Raskin is the incoming food writer for the Charleston, S.C. Post & Courier. She previously served as food critic for the Seattle Weekly and Dallas Observer, earning recognition from the James Beard Foundation, Association of Alternative Newsmedia and the Association of Food Journalists for her work. A founding member of Foodways Texas and an active member of the Southern Foodways Alliance, Raskin serves on the board of the Association of Food Journalists. Her writing has appeared in Modern Farmer, Journal of Popular Culture, Cooking Light, Southern Living and Garden & Gun.
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Yelp Help - Hanna Raskin
YELP HELP
CleaverHow to Write Great
Online Restaurant Reviews
Hanna Raskin
Text copyright © 2013 Hanna Raskin
Smashwords Edition
All Rights Reserved
The author is an independent food critic and is not affiliated with Yelp. The contents and opinions in this book belong to the author alone and should not be imputed to anyone else. This book is not supported or endorsed by Yelp or any other online reviewing website.
Version 1.0.2 (10 July 2013)
Cover by CL Smith
DJ Kitchen font by Donna J. Morse
Table of Contents
Introduction
1. Demystifying the Restaurant
2. A Short History of Restaurant Criticism
3. Where Online Reviews Go Awry
4. Deconstructing the Review
5. How a Critic Approaches a Restaurant
6. Using Your Writer’s Voice
7. Assigning Stars
8. Reviews That Work
9. Practice Exercises
10. Putting It All Together
Acknowledgments
Introduction
PotProfessional food critics are fond of pointing out that one opinion can’t sink a restaurant: If a restaurant’s doing everything right, a published gripe about the amount of salt in the osso buco or a chipped porcelain plate won’t put it out of business.
To cite one example from my reviewing career, I’m no fan of periodically splaying open the doors of a barbecue pit to show prospective eaters the meat which awaits them, since that kind of showmanship disrupts the ancient duet of heat and animal flesh. But as I’m constantly reminding the aggrieved pitmaster who tends to e-mail me after he’s been out drinking, my saying so in print doesn’t doom a business plan built around the practice. Maybe folks are fools for smoked-meat theater. Or maybe they only care about coleslaw quality. Either way, the best I can hope to do is start a conversation about tradition, technology, and time.
As a food critic, I’ve had the good fortune to work at alternative newsweeklies in Asheville, N.C., Dallas, and Seattle, jobs which allowed me to sample every slaw dog in three southern Appalachian counties; master the intricacies of cheese enchiladas; and learn how to distinguish a Totten Inlet oyster from a Naked Roy oyster. I figure the thousands of hours I’ve spent poking around restaurants qualifies me to give folks sound advice about which edible visions are worth supporting.
Yet much as I might wish it was otherwise when I encounter a strip-mall restaurant run by a native Hungarian who stays up until 4 a.m. tussling with swine meat and sausage casings, we paid reviewers have very little say in whether a restaurant thrives or fails. Perhaps there was an era when an Anton Ego’s tsk-tsking could lead directly to an out of business
sign. But nowadays, the power to determine a restaurant’s future rests almost entirely with civilian eaters.
That’s not just the industry’s impression: Plenty of respected academics have argued that Yelp reviews correlate precisely with a restaurant’s sales. In 2011, a Harvard Business School researcher who’d crunched six years’ worth of data from Seattle reported that restaurants increase their revenue by 5 to 9 percent for each additional Yelp star. And a pair of UC Berkeley economists in 2012 announced that an extra half-star is all it takes for a restaurant to have a 30 to 49 percent better chance of selling out its tables on any given evening. What’s written on sites such as Yelp, TripAdvisor, and Urbanspoon matters enormously to restaurant owners whose life savings are tied up in their projects; chefs whose reputations ride on their artistry; local farmers who need dependable outlets for their beets and kale; and servers who struggle to pay the rent when they lose a shift or two.
The reason so many restaurateurs hate online reviewing sites is that citizen critics often wield their power with all the grace of an elephant with a javelin. They hold restaurants accountable for circumstances beyond their control (believe me, any restaurant owner who’s bothered to install a patio also wishes it hadn’t rained the day you visited). They prattle on about amenities which are purely tangential to the restaurant experience, such as the color of the bussers’ shirts, and scold the chef for daring to deviate from Granny’s recipe for green-chile casserole.
To be fair, many of the most egregious online reviews are written by vindictive diners who’d rather flaunt their own culinary expertise or pen a mini-memoir than help fellow diners. But even if Yelp was wiped clean of grudges and narcissism, I’d wager most restaurateurs would keep bad-mouthing the site. That’s because, aside from concerns about whether Yelp plays fair – it took years for the site to defeat a class action suit brought by business owners who claimed positive write-ups vanished when they refused to buy advertising – far too many reviews come off as clueless.
I’m certain the vast majority of online reviewers are well-meaning. But as someone who relies on sites such as Yelp for restaurant leads, I’m sympathetic to complaints about the bad writing, questionable food knowledge, and misplaced petulance that have become the hallmarks of amateur food reviewing. (If you haven’t yet watched the "Real Actors Read Yelp Reviews" YouTube series, I’ll wait.)
The democratization of culinary culture is hugely exciting: I love the idea that a guy who will never land a food-writing job because he refuses to eat anything but ramen, or because he doesn’t want to give up his day gig laying pipe, or because nobody’s hiring food writers anymore, can steer me to the best damn bowl of noodles in Butte, Montana. But all of us – restaurant owners, restaurant workers, and restaurant-goers – would be better off if the overall quality of online reviews was a notch higher.
And if the prospect of elevated food discourse isn’t reason enough to invest more time in producing thoughtful, engaging reviews, sites such as Yelp sweeten the pot with material rewards: A reviewer who earns elite status on Yelp is eligible to attend private parties and collect Yelp-branded gifts. More crucially, elite Yelpers are granted an online badge which signals to readers that they know their stuff. According to Yelp, Elite-worthiness is based on a number of things, including well-written reviews.
If you write great reviews, elite status will surely follow.
The problem is, reviewing isn’t like singing or dancing. Nobody’s born with the ability to do it well. It’s a skill, just like welding or making a rabbit disappear. Some people have more of a knack for it than others, but mastery of restaurant criticism really hinges on learning a set of fundamentals and practicing them. The same techniques apply whether you’re reviewing an Eric Ripert restaurant in New York City or a Filipino lunch counter at the end of your block.
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