Birdies, Bogies and Kiwis: Golfing and Touring New Zealand

By Liz Clark

With 400 established courses, no country on Earth has more golf courses per capita than New Zealand. The game is the highest participation sport in the nation, seeing nearly 500,000 adults play each year. We’d heard visitors easily enjoy a game without the overcrowding experienced in many other parts of the world. So, when Geoff, my best pal and golfing partner suggested we go, I was pretty darned pleased. “A golfing trip to New Zealand? When do we leave?”

And it was even more exciting when two tubes looking like rocket launchers arrived on the doorstep at our home in the Pacific Northwest. Far from threatening, these travel cases for half sets of clubs would double on the course as golf bags. Geoff had thought of everything.

A nation of islands in the Southern Hemisphere, New Zealand is more than 1,600 kilometres southeast of Australia. The waters of the Cook Strait separate the two main islands, the North and the South, and although it’s smaller, most New Zealanders live on the North Island. Temperatures are milder and there’s more level land, but many say the landscape of the South Island is more dramatic because of the spectacular Southern Alps.
Down under, summer stretches from December through February, but it’s vacation time and accommodation reservations are recommended. Autumn runs March through May and from June through August, winter weather brings rain and snow in the high country. Hardy ones can ski in the morning and golf in the afternoon. We arrived in Auckland on the North Island at a particularly beautiful time for although October was still a bit chilly, the warm spring sun and rain refreshed the countryside, coaxed buds into bloom and renewed life in the forests. Someone once said of New Zealand greenery, “If a plant is bare, it is either not native, or dead.”

For those who prefer other pastimes when their partners play a round of golf, there are many activities to while away a few hours. Some may fancy a city tour with shopping excursions, a visit to botanical gardens and their great gift shops, a tramp (walk or hike) along the many well-marked paths in the city or countryside, or just enjoy a lazy day at the beach. A personal favourite is a luxurious soak in an outdoor thermal spa—one of New Zealand’s great treats.

The first section covers a large part of our North Island tour. Up the Twin Coast Highway we sought out golfing opportunities and the nation’s history and pre history. Heading east on the often remote Pacific Coast Highway, we visited the cities of Gisborne and Napier, then drove south to the capital, Wellington. An interesting and challenging aspect of the North Island is golfing alongside boiling, gurgling and plopping geothermal mud pools on courses off the Thermal Explorer Highway. At times, it became a walk on the wild side when shots strayed too close to hot spots.

Our South Island tour began with a Cook Strait car ferry crossing from Wellington to the Port of Picton. We drove the West Coast from what seemed an isolated area north of Westport where caves tell a tale of an ancient past in the remains of the extinct giant flightless moa bird. Heading south into glacier country, we marveled at the dramatic scenery then turned inland to the towns of Wanaka, Queenstown, and Te Anau for Fiordland tours.

Why did we enjoy our visit so much? Feeling welcome and safe has much to do with a traveler’s comfort. Never fearful, we were always greeted warmly in densely populated urban areas or in the most out-of-the-way, backcountry areas. And although rain and wind often changed our plans, they also brought a certain beauty to the country.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Liz Clark
• Release date: Jun 2, 2012
• ISBN: 9781476181288

Liz Clark

Canadian Travel Writer Liz Clark's stories have appeared on-line at www.bunkershot.com, in Muskoka Magazine, The Country Connection, Canada's national newspaper, The Globe & Mail and Westjet's "up!" Published by Wild West Coast Publishing, "Birdies, Bogeys and Kiwis: Golfing Around New Zealand" is her colorful, amusing and informative book now in ebook format.

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Copyright © 2012 by Liz Clark

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, without prior written consent of the publisher or a license from The Canadian Copyright Licensing Agency (Access Copyright). For an Access Copyright license, visit www.accesscopyright.ca or call toll free to 1-800-893-5777.

Clark, Liz, 1934-

Birdies, Bogeys and Kiwis: Golfing and touring New Zealand/Liz Clark.

Includes Index.

ISBN 978-0-9784176-1-1

1. Clark, Liz, 1934- Travel-New Zealand. 2. Golf-New Zealand. 3. New Zealand-Description and travel. I. Title

Jack’s Point golf course cover image by photographer/filmmaker David Comer and courtesy of Fletcher Living Homes, Queenstown.

Golf course photos contributed by The Best of Golf New Zealand www.bestofgolfnewzealand.com

Map courtesy of New Zealand Department of Lands and Survey.

Special thanks to Madie Murray for her assistance in developing this e-book.

Original paperback published by:

Wild West Coast Publishing, Sidney, B.C. Canada

ISBN 978-0-9784176-

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••••••••••••••

CONTENTS

NORTH ISLAND

Chapter 1. Auckland to The Real Far North and the Bay of Islands

Chapter 2. Coromandel, Rotorua, East Cape and Wellington

SOUTH ISLAND

Chapter 3. From Picton to West Coast and the interior to Wanaka

Chapter 4. Queenstown to Invercargill

Chapter 5. Catlins to Dunedin, Oamaru and Timaru

Chapter 6. Mount Cook to Christchurch

Chapter 7. Hanmer Springs to Picton

NORTH ISLAND

Chapter 8. Wellington back to Auckland

Chapter 9. The Nineteenth Hole

INTRODUCTION

No country on Earth has more golf courses per capita than New Zealand. The game is the highest participation sport in the nation, seeing nearly 500,000 adults play each year. With 400 established courses and still more under development, we’d heard visitors easily enjoy a game without the overcrowding experienced in many other parts of the world. So, when Geoff, my best pal and golfing partner popped the question, I was pretty darned pleased.

A golfing trip to New Zealand? When do we leave?

And it was even more exciting when two tubes looking like rocket launchers arrived on the doorstep at our home in the Pacific Northwest. Far from threatening, these travel cases for half sets of clubs would double on the course as golf bags. Geoff had thought of everything.

But how different would the courses be compared to our little 9-holes in a country setting? In geothermal hot spots, we might play alongside fumarole vents where smelly steam rises from deep within the earth’s core. Or perhaps we’d play atop a dizzying escarpment overlooking a billowy sea, then inland surrounded by views of majestic mountains, we’d meander among bucolic meadowlands. And finding a charming rural course, perhaps we’d golf among sheep, New Zealand’s ubiquitous fairway mowers. With so many varied and challenging courses to suit everyone from the scratch golfer to the high handicapper, we’d have a wide range of places to play. Well under an hour’s drive between courses, New Zealand seemed a golfer’s paradise.

One proviso, though: the country sits right in the path of westerly winds off the Tasman Sea that bring more than ample precipitation to the islands’ West Coast. But we’re well-seasoned, determined golfers with waterproof golf shoes and light rain jackets, so only a carefully aimed bolt of lightning would stop us. Or so we thought.

A nation of islands in the Southern Hemisphere, New Zealand is more than 1,600 kilometres southeast of Australia. The waters of the Cook Strait separate the two main islands, the North and the South, and although it’s smaller, most New Zealanders live on the North Island. Temperatures are milder and there’s more level land, but many say the landscape of the South Island is more dramatic because of the spectacular Southern Alps.

Down under, summer stretches from December through February, but it’s vacation time and accommodation reservations are recommended. Autumn runs March through May and from June through August, winter weather brings rain and snow in the high country. Hardy ones can ski in the morning and golf in the afternoon. We arrived in Auckland on the North Island at a particularly beautiful time for although October was still a bit chilly, the warm spring sun and rain refreshed the countryside, coaxed buds into bloom and renewed life in the forests. Someone once said of New Zealand greenery, If a plant is bare, it is either not native, or dead.

For those who prefer other pastimes when their partners play a round of golf, there are many activities to while away a few hours. Some may fancy a city tour with shopping excursions, a visit to botanical gardens and their great gift shops, a tramp (walk or hike) along the many well-marked paths in the city or countryside, or just enjoy a lazy day at the beach. A personal favourite is a luxurious soak in an outdoor thermal spa—one of New Zealand’s great treats.

And for the golfers, I recommend two very good websites: www.nzgolf.org.nz which also includes information on women’s golfing activities throughout the country; and the annually updated New Zealand Golf Guide: www.golfguide.co.nz, a pocket-sized booklet which lists all of the country’s courses and names those who give green fee reductions and Pro Shop discounts. As well, lower accommodation rates are available from those associated with this helpful Guide.

In the text that follows, more than one hundred courses will be described in general terms. Included will also be the par and whether it is a 9-hole or 18-hole course. After each description, the green fee prices, in New Zealand dollars, are coded as follows: Below $30 ($); $30 to $99 ($$); $100 to $200 ($$$); and over $200 ($$$$.)

The first section covers a large part of our North Island tour. Up the Twin Coast Highway we sought out golfing opportunities and the nation’s history and pre history. Heading east on the often remote Pacific Coast Highway, we visited the cities of Gisborne and Napier, then drove south to the capital, Wellington. An interesting and challenging aspect of the North Island is golfing alongside boiling, gurgling and plopping geothermal mud pools on courses off the Thermal Explorer Highway. At times, it became a walk on the wild side when shots strayed too close to hot spots.

Our South Island tour began with a Cook Strait car ferry crossing from Wellington to the Port of Picton. We drove the West Coast from what seemed an isolated area north of Westport where caves tell a tale of an ancient past in the remains of the extinct giant flightless moa bird. Heading south into glacier country, we marveled at the dramatic scenery then turned inland to the towns of Wanaka, Queenstown, and Te Anau for Fiordland tours.

Whoever told us there was nothing to see in Invercargill? Outrageous. After a great visit to Invercargill and Bluff, the southern terminus of State Highway #1, we drove east along the Southern Scenic Highway through the forested Catlins region and along the coast north to Dunedin and Oamaru. Taking the inland scenic route, we visited the eastern slopes of the Southern Alps—Aoraki Mount Cook country, where Everest’s pioneer conqueror, Sir Edmund Hillary, first climbed. Great weather followed us as we headed east again to visit Akaroa near the city of Christchurch, a beautiful haven of French heritage nestled harbourside among the remains of an extinct volcano.

CHRISTCHURCH UPDATE

Since our first visit to Christchurch, the city suffered a tragic transition from the beautiful Garden City to one of rubble in the downtown core. Earthquakes and severe aftershocks beginning in February 2011 have not deterred resilient Kiwis from planning the rise again of this 150-year-old city. In harmony with Nature there will be a new-look central city but it will take time. Enjoy with me the reminder of this great city in Chapter 6 – the way it will always be remembered.

Northward bound from Christchurch, we enjoyed Hanmer Springs, Kaikoura and the Blenheim area where vineyards bask on the sunny slopes of the Wairau Valley in the Marlborough region—a pretty place to conclude our tour of the South Island.

Over the Cook Strait from the Port of Picton back to the North Island, we sought the West Coast and, through rain and low cloud, drove the Surf Highway around Mount Taranaki, otherwise known as Mount Egmont. The Forgotten World Highway returned us to the heartland and onto the Thermal Explorer Highway to conclude our tour back at Auckland.

From the time of arrival to our return to this City of Sails, seven weeks had passed. We’d crisscrossed both Islands in a figure eight fashion and when we returned our rental car, we’d logged over 8,000 kilometres on the odometer.

Why did we enjoy our visit so much? Feeling welcome and safe has much to do with a traveler’s comfort. Never fearful, we were always greeted warmly in densely populated urban areas or in the most out-of-the-way, backcountry areas. And although rain and wind often changed our plans, they also brought a certain beauty to the country. Our only regret is that we couldn’t play as much golf as we’d have liked on our first trip, but I’ll not blame the weather for that. The temptation to turn down a side road and find another enticing vista was too much for us. At times, golf took second place to our total enjoyment of Aotearoa: Land of the Long White Cloud.

Chapter 1

(back to Contents)

Golfing and Touring The Real Far North

Beyond the Black Swamp Road...Some Scottish History...Like Father Like Son...The Maori Legacy and Rainy Cape Reinga...A Cluster of Courses

WHAT COULD POSSIBLY GO WRONG? It’s a perfect mid-October spring morning in New Zealand with the sun beaming down from a cloudless sky. Heading north from the Auckland airport with golf clubs safely stowed in Silver, our Toyota hatchback rental, Geoff and I are all set to play a round of golf before day’s end. No problem.

Only thirty minutes north of Auckland off Highway 16, we turn west to Muriwai Beach. From a high cliff overlooking a beautiful cove on the Tasman Sea, gannets ride warm thermals above the light surf where children belly-board back to the sandy beach below. The Muriwai Golf Club is just a stone’s throw away and promises to offer a great beginning to our golfing tour. From the clubhouse the view across to Oaia Island, the offshore haystack, looks like a giant stepping-stone to infinity from Muriwai’s gradually descending and gently rolling fairways. ($$)

While waiting to sign in to play this par 72, 18-hole course, we review the score card. Remembering all distances in New Zealand are in metres, we add ten percent to the metric length then roughly convert to what is still called yardage. From the longest of three sets of tees, Muriwai plays 6177 metres or approximately 6795 yards.

Sorry, says the cheerful Lady Starter in a kindly manner that shows she’s often the bearer of negative news. The course is fully booked today.

So close to Auckland, we should have known to call ahead to reserve a tee time. We’re very disappointed.

There’s always tomorrow, replies Geoff confidently. Could you book us in for an early round in the morning?

Most certainly, though I should mention, we’re expecting blustery west winds and heavy rainfall. But no matter how hard it rains though, Muriwai never closes. What time would you like?

From past experience, we’d learned wind and rain make for miserable golfing partners. Sadly we wave a limp goodbye and head north, hopefully to better weather.

ALTHOUGH SUCH A SUDDEN CHANGE OF WEATHER seems unlikely, a high country view near the town of Wellsford confirms the forecast. Storm clouds are fast approaching from the west. We quickly turn east toward Mangawhai Heads, soaring cliffs carved by the eroding wind and waters of the South Pacific. Unfortunately the storm catches up with us. Even with windshield wipers swiping wildly we can barely see the T-intersection signs. Black Swamp Road, a boggy-looking path, likely leads to the shooting location for a horror film. Another to the left reads, Golf Course. The choice is easy.

Soaked to the skin and looking like drowned rats, we drip over to the clubhouse doorstep at the Mangawhai Golf Club. Resident Club Professional, E. J. (Ted) McDougall, (now retired) greets us with the obvious.

Not much chance of a game here for a while.

Our host is a big man with a pleasant face, broad smile and deep, resonant voice. We later learn he’s a well-known Kiwi golfer with many awards to his credit. Twice winner of New Zealand Amateur Championships, he subsequently represented the nation in seven World Championships.

Chilly, damp and disappointed, I wipe a patch of condensation from a window overlooking the 18th green but barely see across the gently undulating fairway down to the waters of the Hauraki Gulf Maritime Park. In better weather we’d have enjoyed a nice round here on this par 72, beautifully treed 18-hole course. ($$)

Drying off in the warm clubhouse, we chat with Ted about equipment for the traveling golfer. Clubs, motorized carts, trundlers (pull carts), and even golf shoes, are often for hire at most courses in or near urban centres. Some small courses only have trundlers available. I purposely left my putter back home in a dark corner as punishment for too many three putts. To go with a new and hopefully more obedient putter, I select a flashy new pair of golf shoes—pristine white leather with just a touch of black trim to go with my power-black golf shirts.

Ted turns out to be a terrific tour guide. An expert on Northland, he gives us ideas on what to see, where to eat, and of course, where to play golf. No wonder the man is affectionately known as Big Ted—Big-hearted Ted in my opinion.

Too bad the new course on the Karikari Peninsula, isn’t open for play yet, he says, offering a particularly interesting suggestion. Carrington Club will be one you’ll not want to miss on your next trip to New Zealand but stop in anyway and say ‘hello.’ The folks will be glad to show you the course under construction and their great resort facilities.

When the storm finally moves out to sea, it’s too dark and much too wet to play golf at Mangawhai. We check into the McDougall family’s Heatherfield Chalets just down the road and eat a simple supper at the Sail Rock Cafe.

Early the next morning we follow the coastal route north, climbing into high country where myriad ferns and tropical-looking nikau palms cling to cliffsides and the sweet scent of the rainforest’s decay and renewal swirls in the humid air. Although zigzag turns along this narrow, roller-coaster road slow us down, we’re awed by