Lisbon & the Surrounding Coast

By Norman Renouf

Lisbon’s location, alongside the wide natural harbor of the Tagus river, has made it an important seaport for trade between the Mediterranean and northern Europe throughout the ages. These days Lisbon, naturally protected from the ravages of the nearby At

• Language: English
• Publisher: Hunter Publishing
• Release date: Jul 5, 2012
• ISBN: 9780935161908

Book preview

Lisbon & the Surrounding Coast

Norman Renouf

Hunter Publishing, Inc.

Lisbon History

Lisbon’s geographical location, alongside the wide natural harbor of the Tagus river, has made it an important seaport for trade between the Mediterranean and northern Europe throughout the ages. These days Lisbon, naturally protected from the ravages of the nearby Atlantic Ocean, is one of the premier ports of Europe and, as such, is home to miles of docks, quays and dry docks capable of servicing even the largest of oil tankers.  The Phoenicians colonized this area around 1200 bc, calling it Alis-Ubbo; the Greeks, in their turn, called it Olisipo; and then to the Romans, whose rule began in 205 bc, it was known as Felicitas Julia.  They connected it by road to the important Spanish towns on the Iberian Peninsula, and subsequently wealth began flowing to Lisbon. The Visigoths arrived next in the 5th century, and constructed the earliest fortifications on the site of the Castelo de São Jorge. With the assistance of the Northern Crusaders, Afonso I, after a four-month siege reconquered the city on October 25, 1147, renaming it Ascbouna, and for 300 years the city prospered as a trading market.  Just over a century later, in 1255, Afonso III transferred the capital of Portugal from Coimbra to this city.

The next era, that of the descobrimentos (the discoveries), saw Portugal become the center of the world. During this period Vasco da Gama sailed for the Indies in 1497-1499 discovering Brazil in 1500. 

The wealth from these territories, in the form of gold, ivory, jewels, porcelain and spices,  literally flowed back to Portugal. This enabled King Manuel I to build such monuments as the Monastery of Jerónimos and Tower of Belém, with the highly intricate and unusual late-Portuguese Gothic architectural style used in this era, ultimately named in his honor: Manueline.

Monastery of Jerónimos

King Manuel I

After 1640, and its independence from Spain, Lisbon became ever more prosperous.  However, disaster was waiting, and in the middle of the 18th century, on November 1, 1755, an earthquake leveled much of the city. Tens of thousands were killed, and complete sections of the city were overwhelmed by a tsunami.  It was, however, subsequently rebuilt under the direction of then prime minister, the Marquês de Pombal. The new style of architecture chosen became known as Pombaline.

The best examples of this style can be seen today on the axis that runs between the magnificent Praça do Comércio, by the river, and the Praça Marquês de Pombal, which features a towering statue of Pombal himself.  

Statue of Pombal in the Praça Marquês de Pombal

From the Praça do Comércio the area known as Baixa (Lower Town), a gridded rectangle leads into the Praça Dom Pedro IV, popularly known as Rossio, into the adjacent Praça dos Restauradores and then onto the wide, tree-lined, boulevard of the Avenida da Liberdade, and the modern city.  

This leads up to the Praça Marquês de Pombal, and the Parque Eduardo VII – directly behind it -  was named in honor of King Edward VII of England (below), who visited Lisbon in 1902.

Of the other locations, the Bairro Alto (Upper Town) and Chiado are sprawled along another of the famous hills of the city, to the west and towering over Baixa. The Bairro Alto is an intimate, intricate area of 17th-century narrow streets which are home to numerous bars and restaurants. This is reached by one of the most intriguing modes of public transport, the funicular. Chiado, at its end closest to the Tagus, is quite different and rather upmarket, with stylish shops, hotels and a fine museum or two.

Five kilometers (three miles) west of the Praça do Comércio, and easily reached by train or tram, is the riverside district of Belém, home of numerous Manueline monuments such as the world-famous Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, and many other attractions. To the northeast is the Parque das Nações which was the site of Expo ‘98, but is some distance from the center of Lisbon.  Most probably, the only serious attraction there for tourists is the sparkling new Oceanarium, Oceanário.

The Oceanarium

Practicalities

It is safest to assume that the majority of Lisbon’s monuments, museums and places of interest will be closed on Monday.  Visitors will quickly realize that Lisbon is built on seven hills and, except next to the river, almost nowhere is flat.

In fact, nearly everywhere you go entails a jaunt up and down one, or more, of its hills.  Although the subway system is being extended, in reality there is little need to use it, except to go out to the Parque das Nações.

When to Go: It's best not to visit at the height of summer, when the city positively steams and lodgings are expensive and crowded. Winters are generally mild and usually accompanied by bright blue skies, but for optimum Lisbon weather, visit on either side of summer, in May or late September through October. The city's major festivals are in June; the so-called santos populares (popular saints) see