The Rough Guide to Nepal (Travel Guide with Free eBook)

By Rough Guides

This practical travel guide to Nepal features detailed factual travel tips and points-of-interest structured lists of all iconic must-see sights as well as some off-the-beaten-track treasures. Our itinerary suggestions and expert author picks of things to see and do will make it a perfect companion both, ahead of your trip and on the ground. This Nepal guide book is packed full of details on how to get there and around, pre-departure information and top time-saving tips, including a visual list of things not to miss. Our colour-coded maps make  Nepal  easier to navigate while you're there. This guide book to Nepal has been fully updated post-COVID-19.

The Rough Guide to Nepal covers: Kathmandu and Patan, The Kathmandu Valley, The Central Hills, Pokhara and around, Chitwan and the Western Terai, Janakpur and the Eastern Terai, Annapurna and Everest regions.

Inside this Nepal travel guide you'll find:

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR EVERY TYPE OF TRAVELLER
Experiences selected for every kind of trip to  Nepal, from off-the-beaten-track adventures in Manaslu Circuit to family activities in child-friendly places, like Bardia National Park or chilled-out breaks in popular tourist areas, like Old Kathmandu.

PRACTICAL TRAVEL TIPS
Essential pre-departure information including Nepal entry requirements, getting around, health information, travelling with children, sports and outdoor activities, food and drink, festivals, culture and etiquette, shopping, tips for travellers with disabilities and more.

TIME-SAVING ITINERARIES
Includes carefully planned routes covering the best of Nepal, which give a taste of the richness and diversity of the destination, and have been created for different time frames or types of trip.

DETAILED REGIONAL COVERAGE
Clear structure within each sightseeing chapter of this Nepal travel guide includes regional highlights, brief history, detailed sights and places ordered geographically, recommended restaurants, hotels, bars, clubs and major shops or entertainment options.

INSIGHTS INTO GETTING AROUND LIKE A LOCAL
Tips on how to beat the crowds, save time and money and find the best local spots for whitewater rafting, trekking, cycling, meditation and yoga retreats.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THINGS NOT TO MISS
Rough Guides' rundown of Kathmandu, Pokhara, Patan, Manakamana's best sights and top experiences helps to make the most of each trip to Nepal, even in a short time.

HONEST AND INDEPENDENT REVIEWS
Written by Rough Guides' expert authors with a trademark blend of humour, honesty and expertise, this  Nepal  guide book will help you find the best places, matching different needs.

BACKGROUND INFORMATION
Comprehensive 'Contexts' chapter of this travel guide to Nepal features fascinating insights into  Nepal , with coverage of history, religion, ethnic groups, environment, wildlife and books, plus a handy language section and glossary.

FABULOUS FULL COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY
Features inspirational colour photography, including the stunning Janaki Mandir and the spectacular Boudhanath.

COLOUR-CODED MAPPING
Practical full-colour maps, with clearly numbered, colour-coded keys for quick orientation in Bandipur, Nagarkot and many more locations in Nepal, reduce the need to go online.

USER-FRIENDLY LAYOUT
With helpful icons, and organised by neighbourhood to help you pick the best spots to spend your time.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Insight Guides
• Release date: Jul 1, 2023
• ISBN: 9781839059322

Rough Guides

Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

Book preview

]>

9781839059322.jpg

]>

]>

Contents

Introduction to Nepal

Where to go

When to go

Author picks

things not to miss

Itineraries

Basics

Getting there

Visas and entry requirements

Getting around

Accommodation

Food and drink

The media

Festivals

Health

Culture and etiquette

Spiritual pursuits and alternative therapies

Women’s Nepal

Travelling with children

Travel essentials

Kathmandu and Patan

The old city

West of the Bishnumati

East of Kantipath

Patan

The Kathmandu Valley

Pashupatinath

Boudhanath

Sankhu

Budhanilkantha

Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park

Nagarjun Ban and around

Kirtipur

The Dakshinkali road

Bungmati and around

The Chapagaun road

Godavari and around

Bhaktapur

Changu Narayan

Thimi and around

The Central Hills

Nagarkot

The Arniko Highway

The Trisuli road

Tribhuvan Rajpath: Kathmandu to Hetauda

Pokhara and around

Along the Prithvi Highway to Pokhara

Manakamana

Gorkha

Bandipur

Pokhara

The Pokhara Valley

Tansen

Around Tansen

Chitwan and the Western Terai

Chitwan

Lumbini Terai

The far west

Janakpur and the Eastern Terai

The Tribhuvan Rajpath: Hetauda to Birgunj

Janakpur and around

Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve

Biratnagar

The Dhankuta road

Kakarbhitta

The Ilam road

Trekking

When to go

Information

Trekking independently

Organized treks

Park fees and entry requirements

Accommodation

Food and drink

Health

Emergencies

Equipment

Trekking with children

The Annapurna region

Langtang, Helambu and Gosainkund

The Everest region

Remote and restricted areas

Mountain biking, rafting & kayaking

Mountain biking

When to go

Information, books and maps

Tours and cycling independently

Equipment

Riding conditions

Rafting and kayaking

When to go

Information, books and maps

Rafting operators and agents

Rafting costs

Rafting equipment

Kayaking

Safety and responsibility

Contexts

History

The people of Nepal

Religion

Development dilemmas

Wildlife

Books

Language

Small print

]>

Introduction to Nepal

One look at the Himalayas, and you’ll understand why so many people across Nepal, the wider Himalaya and South Asia in general, regard these mountains as the home of the gods. The high mountains of Nepal are, quite simply, planet Earth at its most spectacular and inspiring. But, there's more than just mighty summits here. Squeezed between India and Tibet, Nepal’s diverse scenery ranges from steamy lowland jungles, where tigers prowl in the shadows, rolling, fertile hills and deep valleys, to Mount Everest’s frozen summit. For many travellers, a trip to Nepal is a chance to experience the great mountains; but once here, most people quickly realize that Nepal’s artistic heritage, abundant wildlife and welcoming people are all an equal draw to the mighty peaks.

Nepal’s cultural landscape is every bit as diverse as its physical one. Its peoples belong to a range of distinctive ethnic groups, and speak a host of languages. Homes are made everywhere from dense, ancient cities erupting with pagoda-roofed Hindu temples, to villages perched on dizzying sweeps of rice-farming terraces and dusty highland settlements clustered around tiny monasteries. Religious practices range from Indian-style Hinduism to Tibetan Buddhism, and from nature worship to shamanism. The Indigenous Newars of the Kathmandu region, meanwhile, blend all these traditions with their own, intense tantric practices.

The cultural richness owes something to the shaping force of the landscape itself, and something else to the fact that Nepal was never colonized. This is a country with profound sense of national pride, an astounding flair for festivals and pageantry and a powerful attachment to traditional ways. Its people famously display a charismatic blend of independent-mindedness and friendliness, toughness and courtesy. These qualities, through the reputations of Gurkha soldiers and Sherpa climbers in particular, have made Nepalis internationally renowned as a rare pleasure to work with or travel among.

Fact file

With a land area of 147,000 square kilometres, Nepal is about the size of England and Wales combined. Useable land, however, is in short supply due to the precipitous terrain and a growing population of around 29 million, over a third of whom are less than 15 years old.

Eight of the world’s ten highest mountains are found in Nepal, including Everest, the highest of them all.

Prior to 1951, only a handful of Westerners had ever been allowed into Nepal. Today, the country receives around 1.5 million tourists annually, with increasing visitor numbers from neighbouring India and China.

Despite the fame of its Tibetan and Sherpa Buddhist communities, Nepal was long the world’s only Hindu kingdom, and Hindus still officially make up some eighty percent of the population. In practice, many Nepalis combine worship of Hindu gods with shamanic and animist rituals.

Thanks to solid conservation policies, Nepal’s population of Royal Bengal tigers is growing at an impressive rate. By 2022 the country was home to an estimated 355 wild tigers - a 190% increase since 2009.

Nepal has an average per capita annual income of around US$1147, and around 25 percent of the population is thought to live below the poverty line.

But it would be misleading to portray Nepal as a fabled Shangri-la. Long politically unstable and economically reliant on its superpower neighbours, it has developed at uncomfortable speed in some areas while stagnating in others. For most of its history the country was an absolute Hindu monarchy, but in the aftermath of a long-running Maoist insurgency, which ended in 2006, it became a federal republic. Today the country is at peace, though the difficult process of building a fully functioning democratic state is still ongoing. And political challenges are often matched by those of geography and geology – as demonstrated by the devastating 2015 earthquake.

Image ID:MAP001Nepal

Where to go

Nepal’s capital, Kathmandu, is electrifyingly exotic, with its medieval warren of alleys, Hindu temples and Buddhist stupas, and its uniquely relaxed nightlife. But, with horrendous pollution levels and poor urban planning and development, it is also a true environmental disaster zone. But one that still thrills all arrivals. Many visitors use the city as a base from which to make day-trips out to the Kathmandu Valley, and the well-preserved medieval cities of Patan and Bhaktapur, while others escape to stay overnight at one of the mountain viewpoints on the valley rim, such as Nagarkot, in the Central Hills. Few take the time to explore the valley’s wealth of temples, towns and forested hilltops in more depth, but those who do are richly rewarded.

Most people move on from Kathmandu to Pokhara, six hours west of the capital via tourist bus. An engaging, easy-going resort town in the Western Hills, Pokhara is set beside a lake and under a towering wall of white peaks. While many visitors are happy just to gaze at the town’s impressive views, or hang out in its numerous bars, it also makes a great base for day hikes and mountain-bike rides, yoga and meditation courses, and even paragliding and microlight flights. Other towns in the Western Hills – notably Gorkha with its impressive fortress, Manakamana with its wish-fulfilling temple, and Bandipur with its old-world bazaar – offer history and culture as well as scenery.

Image ID:001-4

Pilgrims visit the birthplace of Buddha during Buddha Jayanti in Lumbini

Shutterstock

Not many travellers head into the flat Terai, along the border with India – and with a very north Indian flavour to it – unless it’s to enter the deservedly popular Chitwan National Park, with its endangered Asian one-horned rhinos. The Terai is also home to Bardia National Park and two other rarely visited wildlife reserves – all worth considering for those looking to escape the Chitwan crowds. In the west, Lumbini, Buddha’s birthplace, is a pilgrimage site of worldwide importance, as is Janakpur, a Hindu holy city in the east.

Yet above and beyond all else, Nepal is most renowned for trekking – hiking from village to village, through massive hills and lush rhododendron forests and up to the peaks and glaciers of the high Himalayas. The thrillingly beautiful and culturally rich Annapurna and Everest regions are the most oriented to trekkers, but other, once-remote areas are opening up, notably Mustang and Manaslu. Meanwhile, mountain biking through Nepal’s scenic back roads and rafting down its rivers offer not only adventure but also a different perspective on the countryside and wildlife.

The 2015 earthquake

On April 25, 2015 Nepal was devastated by a massive 7.8-magnitude earthquake – the country’s worst in over eighty years – and several powerful aftershocks, killing thousands and creating a humanitarian disaster (see page 309).

General infrastructure was quickly repaired, and in modern districts there are few visible signs today that it happened at all. However, some of the painstaking efforts to restore and rebuild damaged or destroyed Unesco-protected temples and palaces around Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur’s Durbar squares are still ongoing, and will be for some years to come. Throughout this guide, we have mentioned sites where earthquake damage remains significant.

When to go

Nepal is broadly temperate, with four main seasons centred around the summer monsoon. The majority of visitors, prioritizing mountain visibility, come in the autumn peak season (late Sept to late Nov). The downside is that the tourist quarters and trekking trails are heaving, prices are higher and it may be hard to find a decent room.

Winter (Dec & Jan) is mostly clear and stable. It never snows in Kathmandu, but mornings can be dank and chilly there. This is an excellent time, however, to visit the Terai, and if you can face the cold, a rare time to be in the mountains too.

Spring (Feb to mid-April) is the second tourist season, with its warmer weather and longer days. The downsides are that haze can obscure the mountains from lower elevations (though it’s usually possible to trek above it).

The pre-monsoon (mid-April to early June) brings ever more stifling heat, afternoon clouds and rain showers. Trek high, where the temperatures are more tolerable.

Nepalis welcome the monsoon, the timing of which may vary by a few weeks every year, but typically begins in mid-June and ends in the last weeks of September. The fields come alive with rushing water and green shoots. This can be a fascinating time to visit, with relatively few other tourists around. But there are drawbacks: mountain views are rare, leeches come out in force and paths may be blocked by landslides.

Average temperatures and rainfall

Feb Apr Jun Aug Oct Dec

Janakpur (70m), Terai plains

Max/min (ºC) 26/11 35/16 35/20 33/26 31/22 25/11

Max/min (ºF) 79/52 95/15 96/68 91/79 88/72 77/52

Rain (mm) 20 40 40 310 70 10

Jomsom (2713m), Himalayan rain shadow

Max/min (ºC) 10/-2 19/4 23/12 23/13 18/6 12/-2

Max/min (ºF) 50/28 66/39 73/53 73/55 64/43 54/28

Rain (mm) 10 20 20 30 30 10

Kathmandu (1300m), Central Hills

Max/min (ºC) 20/4 27/11 29/19 28/20 26/13 20/3

Max/min (ºF) 68/39 81/52 84/66 82/68 79/55 68/37

Rain (mm) 20 60 260 320 60 150

Namche (3450m), high Himalayas

Max/min (ºC) 6/-6 12/1 15/6 16/8 12/2 7/-6

Max/min (ºF) 43/21 54/34 59/43 61/46 54/36 45/21

Rain (mm) 20 30 140 240 80 40

Pokhara (800m), Western Hills

Max/min (ºC) 22/9 30/15 30/21 30/22 27/17 20/8

Max/min (ºF) 71/48 86/59 86/70 86/72 81/62 68/46

Rain (mm) 30 120 700 850 170 20

]>

Author picks

Our author recommendations don’t end here. We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the ê symbol.

Our author has bussed, walked, rafted, paddled and biked the length and breadth of Nepal to research this book. Here are some of their favourite travel experiences and places.

Image ID:001-5

Woman from Kathmandu

Shutterstock

Nepali people The Nepali people themselves are a major factor in making this country so special. Learning some Nepali (see page 65), volunteering (see page 64) or simply accepting an invitation for tea are all great ways to get to know them.

Festivals Catch one of Nepal’s many religious festivals (see page 53). It’ll be an experience you’ll never forget, and will show you an important part of Nepali culture.

Bardia National Park Skip the crowds of Chitwan and head east to explore the less-visited Bardia (see page 222). It’s the best place in Nepal to spot tigers, too.

Treks The Everest Base Camp (see page 273) and Annapurna (see page 263) treks justify their fame, but going off-piste brings rich rewards. Manaslu (see page 267) has stunning scenery and far few visitors than the main routes. Not far north of Kathmandu, the Langtang valley (see page 268) is another less heavily travelled region, dotted with welcoming villages. Perhaps Nepal's ultimate trek though is the demanding and breath taking Three Passes trek in the Everest region.

Newari cities Bhaktapur (see page 139) and Patan (see page 94) are arguably some of the best-preserved medieval cities in all of Asia.

Image ID:001-6

Bengal tiger in Bardia National Park

Shutterstock

Food Astounding pickles enliven the national dish of daal bhaat (see page 51), while spicy Newari food is an adventure in meat-eating: try it in restaurants such as Kathmandu’s Thamel House (see page 108), Tansen’s Nanglo West (see page 197) and, most authentically, Kirtipur’s superb Newa Lahana (see page 134).

Janakpur Little visited by Western travellers, the fascinating Terai city of Janakpur (see page 236) is an important stop on the Hindu pilgrimage circuit, with an ornate temple and a bustling old town.

]>

20

things not to miss

It’s not possible to see everything that Nepal has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows, in no particular order, is a selective taste of the country’s highlights, including beautiful mountains, outstanding national parks, ancient cities and unforgettable experiences. All highlights have a page reference to take you straight into the Guide, where you can find out more.

Image ID:001-7

1 Everest

See page 271

Trekking in the vicinity of the greatest mountain on Earth is an unequalled scenic and cultural experience. The most popular route is the Everest Base Camp trek, but for something wilder try the daunting Three Passes.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-8

2 Bhaktapur

See page 139

The exquisitely preserved Kathmandu Valley town of Bhaktapur is built in dark carved wood and glowing pink brick, and adorned with fine stone sculptures.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-9

3 TeaHouses

See pages 281 & 278

On busier trekking routes the teahouses are now well-equipped trekking lodges, but head to Dolpo, Kanchenjunga, or Makalu and enjoy the interaction of staying in smoky teahouses frequented more by local yak herders than trekkers.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-10

4 MOUNTAIN BIKING

See page 288

From precipitous descents (and, if you’re fit enough, ascents) to relaxed countryside ambles, Nepal is an epic place to explore on two wheels.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-11

5 Momos

See page 52

These steamed meat or vegetable dumplings, resembling plump ravioli, are an addictive snack. They’re served with a chilli sauce, and you can find them everywhere from street stalls to fancy restaurants.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-12

6 Dasain

See page 55

Dasain is the high point of the busy Nepali festival calendar. Masked dancers perform elaborate rituals in Bhaktapur and Kathmandu, people travel for days to be at home with their families, and children celebrate by playing on bamboo swings.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-13

7 Boudhanath

See page 124

Clustered round the great white stupa, with its all-knowing Buddha eyes, is a thriving Tibetan Buddhist community and pilgrimage centre.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-14

8 Manaslu Circuit

See page 267

Less developed than the more popular Everest Base Camp and Annapurna area treks, the Manaslu Circuit offers a beguiling combination of stupendous scenery, cultural interest and fairly quiet trails.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-15

9 Janaki Mandir

See page 237

Worshippers flock to Janakpur’s Mughal-style Janaki Mandir to pay homage to legendary lovers Ram and Sita.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-16

10 Jungle wildlife

See pages 208 & 222

You’ll get closer to a wild rhino than might seem advisable at Chitwan and Bardia national parks, plus there’s the electrifying chance of spying a tiger.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-17

11 Old Kathmandu

See page 73

An intensely urban quarter of narrow alleys, noisy markets, fabulously carved temples and rowdy political rallies.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-18

12 Bus journeys

See page 45

Chickens under the seats, sunbathers on the roof and spectacular hairpin bends: rides on a public bus may be uncomfortable, but they get you close to everyday life.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-19

13 Chiya

See page 52

Leaving aside home-brew beer and raksi firewater, hot, sweet, milky, spicy chiya is Nepal’s national drink.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-20

14 Rafting

See page 295

Not just for adrenaline junkies, but a wonderful way to experience rural Nepal.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-21

15 Gorkha

See page 175

The ancestral home of Nepal’s royal family is a quintessential hill town, albeit one with a fine ridgetop temple and palace compound.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-22

16 Phewa Tal

See page 181

Relax in a boat on Pokhara’s placid lake and soak up stunning views of the Annapurna range, or jump in for a swim.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-23

17 Yoga and meditation

See pages 52, 113 & 187

Kathmandu and Pokhara are spilling over with yoga classes, meditation sessions and retreats, inspired by both the Hindu and Buddhist traditions.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-24

18 The Kathmandu Valley

See page 116

Just a short way from the seething urban centres, the Kathmandu Valley is packed with little-touristed towns and villages, countless temples and some surprisingly wild landscapes.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-25

19 Lumbini

See page 215

Out in the hot Terai lowlands, the Buddha's birthplace has a tranquil rural setting, surrounded by quiet farmland.

Shutterstock

Image ID:001-26

20 Bandipur

See page 178

Ridge-top Bandipur makes for an excellent stopover on the Kathmandu–Pokhara route, with well-preserved old buildings and boutique guesthouses.

Shutterstock

]>

Itineraries

Create your own itinerary with Rough Guides. Whether you’re after adventure or a family-friendly holiday, we have a trip for you, with all the activities you enjoy doing and the sights you want to see. All our trips are devised by local experts who get the most out of the destination. Visit www.roughguides.com/trips to chat with one of our travel agents.

The best way to explore Nepal is to use this guide to create your own itinerary, but below we offer three recommended routes. The Best of Nepal covers the highlights – deservedly popular destinations, but you’ll never be far off the beaten track. Kathmandu and Everest adds a few Kathmandu Valley sights onto the Everest Base Camp trek, while Exploring the West gives you a memorable trip well away from most tourist itineraries.

THE BEST OF NEPAL

You could do a whistle-stop tour of the classic sights in eight to ten days. If you trek into the Annapurna region, you’ll need another week or two – depending how far and how fast you walk.

1 Kathmandu The capital has boomed in recent years, becoming a busy, polluted, modern city, but it still preserves a stunning medieval heart and an easy-going restaurant and nightlife scene. See page 68

2 Pashupatinath and Boudhanath At the holy riverbank of Pashupatinath, the Hindu dead are cremated in the open; just down the road lies the dizzyingly exotic Tibetan Buddhist community of Boudhanath. See pages 120 & 124

3 Bhaktapur The stunningly preserved micro-city of Bhaktapur offers a taste of what Kathmandu was like before the modern world arrived. See page 139

4 Bandipur Poised on a precipitous ridge, the old-world bazaar town of Bandipur has become an easy-going haven, packed with gorgeous boutique hotels and friendly homestay lodges. See page 178

5 Pokhara Set under the white peaks of the Annapurna range, lakeside Pokhara is Nepal’s biggest tourist centre. You can paraglide, meditate or just relax on a boat or in a bar. See page 180

6 Annapurna trekking The Annapurna range rises above some of Nepal’s lushest, steepest and loveliest foothills – perfect for a shorter trek to the viewpoint of Poon Hill, or, with a few more days to kill, on to the uplifting Annapurna Sanctuary and then back to Pokhara. See page 263

7 Chitwan From Pokhara, head off next to the jungle, grassland and rivers of Chitwan National Park. You’re almost guaranteed sightings of rhinos, deer, monkeys, crocodiles and countless species of birds. You might even spot the elusive tigers. See page 204

Image ID:MAP001Itn

KATHMANDU AND EVEREST

Altitude enforces a minimum fourteen- to sixteen-day schedule for the Everest Base Camp trek, but three weeks would allow some exploration of Kathmandu and its valley as well.

1 Shivapuri and Budhanilkantha Start acclimatizing with a day hike from Kathmandu up to the valley rim at Shivapuri, taking in the Sleeping Vishnu at Budhanilkantha. See pages 130 & 129

2 Lukla Fly from Kathmandu to the world’s most insane airstrip, and in minutes you’re at the gates of Khumbu, the profoundly Buddhist Everest region, ready to start walking up to Namche. See page 271

3 Thame A rest day at Namche Bazaar, the Sherpa capital, might involve a six-hour round-trip hike to Thame. See page 274

4 Buddhist monasteries The slow ascent necessary for acclimatization above Namche allows time for monastery visits. On the trail between Namche and Base Camp, the serene gompa at Tengboche, Pangboche and Dingboche are rich with gilded statues and thangka paintings. See pages 274 & 275

5 Chhukhung Another rest day takes you exploring off the main Base Camp trail up to the Imja Glacier or the peak of Chhukhung Ri, overnighting at the tiny settlement of Chhukhung. See page 275

6 Kala Pattar The high point of the Everest trek isn’t the relatively disappointing Base Camp itself (5300m) but the breathtaking (literally) viewpoint hillock of Kala Pattar (5545m). See page 275

7 Cho La In good conditions, experienced walkers can cross the Cho La into the Gokyo valley, for more views and a descent to Lukla by the western trail. See page 275

8 Kathmandu A post-trek day or two in Kathmandu could be happily wasted browsing for handicrafts, eating and drinking – or seeing the sights. See page 68

EXPLORING THE WEST

Few travellers head any further west than Pokhara, but as soon as you get off the well-travelled track you start tasting a rougher, richer side of Nepal. This itinerary is for those with weeks to spare – though you could reduce it to a fortnight by settling for just the Karnali, Bardia and Pokhara.

1 The Karnali from Dungeshwar This remote rafting-and-camping trip begins with a flight to Nepalgunj, a bus or jeep ride via Birendra Nagar to the put-in point at Dungeshwar, then a raft descent through remote, far western hills for about eight days towards Bardia. What a way to begin. See page 299

2 Bardia National Park The rafting trip can end at Bardia, which has all the spectacular wildlife of Chitwan, but a fraction of the visitors – and preserves its laidback mud-and-thatch lodges. See page 222

3 Lumbini The birthplace of the Buddha sits in the burning hot plains, amid astounding monasteries and ancient archeological sites. See page 215

4 Tansen A friendly town on the edge of the hills offering appealing homestays, a fine restaurant, a palace, Himalayan views and a great day hike to Rani Ghat. See page 195

5 Biking the Tamghas Highway You’ll see no other tourists on this rough, multi-day mountain-biking (or bus-and-hitchhiking) route between Tansen and Pokhara. See page 295

6 Pokhara If you arrive in Pokhara from the west, you’ll deserve all that basking by the lake and relaxing in the bars and restaurants. See page 180

7 Gorkha An impressive royal palace looms on the ridge above the hill town of Gorkha. See page 175

]>

Basics

Image ID:101-1

Tengboche Monastery

Shutterstock

Getting there

In the autumn and spring tourist high seasons (late Sept to mid-Nov and late Feb to late March), flights to Kathmandu – Nepal’s only international airport – often fill up months ahead. Most people book tickets through to Kathmandu, but you can also make your own way to a major regional air hub such as Delhi, and arrange transport from there. Although this does bring in various additional visa complications and expense. Airfares depend on the time of year, but timings of the high, low and shoulder seasons are calculated differently by each airline, and may not always coincide with tourist seasons.

The best deals though tend to be found online – compare prices on an aggregator like http://google.com/travel/flights or http://kayak.com. However, be very cautious when booking through one of these sites, as airline booking conditions, change fees, baggage rules and so on are often not clearly shown. You may be better off using these sites to find the airline offering the best fare, and then booking directly through the airline website.

Flights from the UK and Ireland

There are no direct flights from London, Ireland or indeed Europe as a whole to Kathmandu, so you’ll have to make at least one stop en route. Fares are seasonal, and airlines generally charge full whack from late September to mid-November, late February to late March, and during the Christmas period. It’s often possible, however, to find discounted fares, especially on less convenient routes, and prices drop outside of these periods, but, overall Kathmandu the limited number of airlines serving Kathmandu make it a pricey place to fly too as compared to somewhere like Delhi.

From London, Turkish (http://turkishairlines.com) and Qatar Airways (http://qatarairways.com) offer the most direct routings via the Middle East. Another good option is to fly on Air India (http://airindia.com) via Delhi/Mumbai. Travelling by other routes takes longer (sometimes with long stopovers), but relatively inexpensive deals can often be found on carriers such as Etihad Airways (http://etihad.com) and Oman Air (http://omanair.com). Flights on South-East Asian airlines aren’t really worth considering because you’ll have to double back from Thailand or Singapore.

For the shortest flight times from Ireland, Turkish and Etihad offer the best connections; otherwise it’s often easier to fly via London or another European city.

Flights from the US and Canada

If you live on the east coast, it’s quicker to fly to Nepal via Europe and then – typically – the Middle East or India (see page 43). From the west coast it’s easier to go via the Far East on a carrier like Singapore Airlines (http://singaporeair.com), Thai Airways (http://thaiairways.com), or Cathay Pacific (http://cathaypacific.com). Expect to spend 20–24 hours on planes if you travel via these routes.

Seasonal considerations may help determine which route you fly; note that these airline seasons don’t necessarily coincide with Nepal’s autumn and spring tourist seasons. Most airlines consider high season to be summer and the period around Christmas; low season is winter (excluding Christmas), while spring and autumn may be considered low or shoulder season, depending on your route. From Canada, the cheapest flights tend to be from Toronto, flying eastwards.

MOUNTAIN VIEWS

If you’re flying into or out of Kathmandu via Delhi or the Gulf, it’s worth trying to book a daytime flight, as the views on clear days are astounding. Flying west from Kathmandu, many flights now take a particularly astonishing route, during which the western Himalayas scroll right past your window. Check in early to ensure a window seat on the best side: on the left on the way in (seats lettered A), and on the right on the way out.

Flights from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

Flying from Australia or New Zealand with a mainstream carrier invariably means travelling with Air India (http://airindia.com) via Delhi, or combo-flights with Singapore Airlines (http://singaporeair.com) via Singapore or Thai Airways (http://thaiairways.com), with a stopover en route.

Fares with the mainstream carriers depend on the time of year. Generally, low season runs from mid-January to late February, and from early October to the end of November; high season is from around mid-May to August, and early December to mid-January; shoulder season takes up the rest of the year.

Fares to Delhi are about the same as to Kathmandu, so another possibility – although not the most economical – is to fly into India and fly or travel overland from there (see page 43).

From South Africa, the flights are generally via the Middle East; Qatar Airways (http://qatarairways.com) has good connections. Try different combinations of flights/carriers online for the best price and shortest durations.

Getting there from neighbouring countries

Many travellers combine Nepal with a trip to India. If you’re flying into India and straight on to Nepal but using a different airline and separate ticket, then you might find that you need an Indian visa, which can make your journey overly costly and complicated. If you are planning to spend some time in India first, then you can enter Nepal simply enough overland. There are numerous border crossings between the two countries, and overland routes can be easily planned to take in many of northern India’s most renowned sights. Travel agencies in India and Nepal offer bus package deals between the two countries, but these are generally overpriced and it is far better to organize things yourself.

Three border crossings see the vast majority of travellers: Sonauli/Belahiya, reachable from Delhi, Varanasi and most of North India (via Gorakhpur); Raxaul/Birgunj, accessible from Bodhgaya and Kolkata via Patna; and Kakarbhitta, serving Darjeeling and Kolkata via Siliguri. A fourth, Banbaasa/Mahendra Nagar, in the little-visited west of Nepal, is handy for the Uttar Pradesh hill stations and (relatively speaking) Delhi too. All these border crossings are described in the relevant sections of the Guide. Two other border points (near Nepalgunj and Dhangadhi) are also open to tourists, but they’re rarely used. Other crossings near Janakpur, Biratnagar and Ilam rarely admit foreigners.

Flying between Delhi and Kathmandu rewards you with Himalayan views (see box, page 43) and opens up a wider choice of international flights. Air India (http://airindia.in), IndiGo (http://goindigo.in), Vistara (http://airvistara.com), and Nepal Airlines (http://nepalairlines.com.np) all serve this route.

Travel either by road or air between Tibet and Nepal is currently forbidden due to China's continuing strict Covid-19 travel restrictions. It's hard to predict when China and therefore Tibet might re-open to the rest of the world. Keep in mind that even prior to 2020 that you could not travel in Tibet independently, and required the services of a Tibetan tour company.

The classic Asia overland trip is just about alive and kicking, but visas and security issues can make travel through certain countries a daunting prospect.

Specialist agents and tour operators

The following operators are good options for special interest, sightseeing, wildlife and trekking tours in Nepal. It’s worth bearing in mind that, while booking a package through an operator in your own country might be much easier, and perhaps more secure, the more agencies you put between you and the product, the more expensive it gets – there are very few things that can’t be organized more cheaply (and with more benefit to the local economy) by a Nepali agency, or by using this book to organize yourself.

In the UK

Exodus http://exodus.co.uk. Established company with trekking, cycling and sightseeing trips to Nepal and India.

Explore Worldwide http://explore.co.uk. Recommended operator offering Nepal and Tibet trips, featuring trekking and cultural activities. Good for single travellers.

High Places http://highplaces.co.uk. For the more serious trekker, focusing on high-altitude trekking and scaling peaks.

Jagged Globe http://jagged-globe.co.uk. Climbing, mountaineering and serious trekking expeditions.

The Mountain Company http://themountaincompany.co.uk. Aimed mainly at experienced trekkers, this company offers some of the most exciting routes in Nepal.

Mountain Kingdoms http://mountainkingdoms.com. Smallish specialist company with particular expertise on Nepal.

Naturetrek http://naturetrek.co.uk. Specialist in wildlife tours.

Wildlife Worldwide http://wildlifeworldwide.com. Trips especially for wildlife enthusiasts.

In the US and Canada

Above the Clouds Trekking http://aboveclouds.com. Family-run operator offering some unusual treks, including heli-trekking; good for family treks.

Journeys International http://journeysinternational.com. Worldwide trekking agency covering the standard routes, plus a few off-the-beaten-track options.

Mountain Travel Sobek http://mtsobek.com. High-end trekking and rafting company, with easy to strenuous routes, plus wildlife and customized trips.

Visas and entry requirements

All foreign nationals except Indians need a visa to enter Nepal. These are free (for thirty days) for nationals of other South Asian Area Regional Cooperation (SAARC) countries: Pakistan, Bhutan and Bangladesh. All other nationals have to pay for them.

Tourist visas are issued on arrival at Kathmandu airport and official overland entry points. At the former, queues can be long, so you may prefer to get one in advance from a Nepali embassy or consulate in your own country. Otherwise, have a passport-size photo at the ready; you can also save time by filling in an online application in advance, on which you can attach a digital photo (http://online.nepalimmigration.gov.np/tourist-visa). At the airport, you can pay the visa fee in US dollars, euros, pounds sterling or other major foreign currencies. At overland entry points, officials tend to demand US dollars or Nepali rupees.

Indian Visas

Getting an Indian tourist visa in Kathmandu has become a little more complicated in recent years; here’s how to do it.

Obtaining a visa in kathmandu

The Indian Embassy (http://indembkathmandu.gov.in), just off Lazimpath, has outsourced its visa operation to Nepal SBI Bank, whose office is next door (Mon–Fri: applications 9.30am–noon, collections 3–5pm); queues can be very long, so arrive early. In theory the visa process takes seven to ten working days, but in practice it’s often around five to seven.

The application itself must be made online at http://indianvisaonline.gov.in before you head to the visa service centre; you should also bring two colour passport photos, with a light background, measuring 51mm x 51mm – this is larger than the standard ID photo (any nearby photo-ID shop will know about this, so do tell them it’s for an Indian visa).

Visas are valid from the date of issue, not the date you enter India. If you are flying into one of the major airports, certain nationalities are eligible for an Electronic Travel Authorization-enabled thirty-day visa on arrival, which you can apply for online; check the Indian Embassy website for more details.

Getting to India from Kathmandu

By plane The easiest way to reach India is on one of the numerous daily flights to the major cities from Tribhuvan International Airport.

By bus There is a direct bus from Kathmandu to Delhi, but this is a truly horrendous journey (at least 36hr). It is far better to buy a bus ticket to the border and then make onward arrangements from there; India Railways tickets can be booked online (http://cleartrip.com is far easier to use than the official site, http://irctc.co.in). Six border crossings between Nepal and India are open to foreigners; the most popular are Sonauli (see page 215), Kakarbhitta (see page 244) and Birgunj (see page 234).

Package tours Travel agents sell package deals to India, but these are notoriously unreliable and are best avoided.

The fee structure at the time of writing was US$30 for fifteen days, US$50 for thirty days and US$125 for ninety days; all are multiple-entry visas. Fees may change without warning, however, so double-check at http://nepalimmigration.gov.np before setting out.

Tourist visas can be extended up to a maximum of 150 days in a calendar year: an extension of 30 days or less costs US$30. You’ll need to apply online (at http://nepalimmigration.gov.np), then take the email response with you to the Kathmandu or Pokhara Department of Immigration offices. You should be able to collect your passport with the visa extension added later the same day. Submit your passport and one digital photo with your application – if you haven’t submitted your photo online you can put it on a USB stick. A non-extendable transit visa, valid for 24 hours, can be issued at airport immigration; you can save time by applying online first.

Don’t overstay more than a couple of days as you’ll have to pay the visa extension fee plus fines, and don’t tamper with your visa – tourists have been fined and even jailed for these seemingly minor infractions.

Customs officers are fairly lax on entry, but checks are more thorough on departure, and it is illegal to export objects over 100 years old (see box, page 111).

Travelling to Tibet

In the past, heading to high reaches of Tibet was a very popular add-on to a trip to Nepal. Today, for reasons of bureaucracy and politics, this is a much more complicated and costly endeavour than it used to be. And, at the time of writing, Tibet and the rest of China remained closed to most foreigners due to continuing Covid-19 restrictions. With China continuing to maintain a 'zero Covid' policy it's hard to see how the country can re-open to the rest of the world.

If and when Tibet's borders reopen then China’s official policy, and one that is strictly enforced, is that foreigners wanting to enter Tibet from Nepal must join a tour. You cannot under any circumstances travel in Tibet independently.

The current border crossing with Tibet available to foreign travellers is between Rasuwa and Gyirong, north of Kathmandu. It is also possible to fly between Lhasa and Kathmandu. Keep in mind though that you cannot travel in Tibet independently, and you will require the services of a Tibetan tour company.

The standard eight-day, seven-night tour involves travelling into Tibet by road and flying back. On this kind of package, you’ll stay in basic guesthouses, and travel in a bus rather than a more comfortable Land Cruiser. Sights visited usually include Shigatse, Gyantse and Yamdruk Tso (Turquoise Lake) and perhaps Everest North Base Camp. Longer, more adventurous (and expensive) itineraries could take you trekking around holy Mount Kailash. Note that you must stay with the group for the duration of the tour.

The Tibet high season is April to September. Tours don’t generally run between the middle of December and early March due to the risk of snowstorms.

visas

The Chinese Embassy only issues group visas for Tibet through travel agents. Note that regulations are notoriously prone to change.

Getting around

Getting around is one of the biggest challenges of travelling in Nepal. Distances aren’t great, but the roads are poor and often extremely slow, and public buses are crowded and uncomfortable. Tourist buses are available on the main routes, however, and you can always hire a motorbike, or charter a taxi, car or 4WD vehicle, or catch a flight.

Nepal’s highways are irregularly maintained, and each monsoon takes a toll on surfaces. Wherever you travel, the route will probably be new in parts, disintegrated in places, and under construction in others. The country has a truly appalling road safety record, and accidents are common. And, in addition, blockades or general strikes (bandh) can at times make travel virtually impossible, though it has improved a lot in recent years.

Nepali place names

Even though Devanaagari (the script of Nepali and Hindi) spellings are phonetic, transliterating them into the Roman alphabet is a disputed science. Some places will never shake off the erroneous spellings bestowed on them by early British colonialists – Kathmandu, for instance, looks more like Kaathmaadau when properly transliterated. Where place names are Sanskrit-based, the Nepali pronunciation sometimes differs from the accepted spelling – the names Vishnu (a Hindu god) and Vajra (a tantric symbol), for instance, sound like Bishnu and Bajra in Nepali. We have followed local pronunciations as consistently as possible in this guide, except in cases where to do so would be out of step with every map in print.

By bus

Allowing for bad roads, overloaded buses, tea stops, meal stops, the constant picking up and letting off of passengers, and the occasional flat tyre or worse, the average bus speed in the hills is barely 25–30km per hour, and on remote, unpaved roads it can be half that. Along the Terai’s Mahendra Highway, it’s more like 50km per hour in an express bus.

Bus frequencies and approximate journey times are given throughout this guide. Inevitably, these figures should be taken with a pinch of salt: the bus network seems to grow every year, but political troubles or festivals can dramatically reduce the number of buses, and some gravel or dirt roads are closed altogether during the monsoon.

Open-air bus stations (also known as bas parks or bas islands) are typically located in the dustiest parts of town. Tickets are generally sold from a small booth. Destinations may not be written in English, but people are almost always happy to help you out if you ask.

In Kathmandu and Pokhara you may find it easier to make arrangements through a travel agent (though make sure it’s one you’ve been recommended), while in cities you can ask your hotel to buy a ticket for you.

Tourist buses

Regular tourist buses connect Kathmandu with Pokhara, Sauraha (for Chitwan National Park) and Sonauli, as well as Pokhara with Sauraha and Sonauli. The vehicles are usually in good condition, making for a safer ride than in a regular bus. They aren’t supposed to take more passengers than there are seats, so the journey should also be more comfortable and quicker too. Some companies use minibuses, which are somewhat quicker – occasionally dangerously so. Book seats at least one or two days in advance. Note that ticket agents often add an undisclosed commission onto the price.

Express buses

Long-distance public bus services generally operate on an express basis – meaning they stop at scheduled points only. They’re faster and more comfortable than local buses.

Express buses fall into two categories: day buses, which usually set off in the morning, and night buses, which usually depart in the afternoon or early evening. Night buses are generally more comfortable, though legroom is always in short supply, and between all the lurching, honking, tea stops and blaring music you won’t get much sleep (bring earplugs and an eye mask). Night journeys are also significantly more dangerous, and it’s not uncommon for drivers to fall asleep at the wheel or drink alcohol.

Like tourist buses, and unlike local buses, express buses allow you to reserve seats in advance. You should do this to avoid being in one of the ejector seats along the back. Numbering begins from the front of the bus: the prized seats #1A and #2A, on the left by the front door, often have the most legroom, but they’re also usually the most dangerous in the event of a crash. You can usually get away with buying a ticket just a few hours beforehand, except during the big festivals, when you should book as far in advance as possible.

Most express buses give you the choice of stowing your baggage on the roof or in a locked hold in the back. Having all your things with you is of course the best insurance policy against theft. Putting bags in the hold is usually the next safest option, especially on night buses. Baggage stowed on the roof is probably all right during the day, but you can never be completely sure – if possible, lock your bag to the roofrack, and keep an eye out during stops.

Local buses

Serving mainly shorter routes or remote roads, local buses are ancient, cramped and battered contraptions. A bus isn’t making money until it’s nearly full to bursting, and it can get suffocating inside. Once on the road, the bus will stop any time it’s flagged down.

Local buses often depart from a separate bus park or just a widening in the road, and tickets are bought on board. The only way to be sure of getting a seat is to board the bus early and wait. If you’re just picking up a bus along the way you’re likely to join the crush standing in the aisle.

Unless your bag is small, it will have to go on the roof; during daylight hours it should be safe there as long as it’s locked, but keep all valuables on your person. Riding on the roof can be quite appealing, but it’s dangerous and illegal. Even if you’ve got a seat, safety is a concern: these buses are often overworked, overloaded and poorly maintained.

By 4WD and truck

Almost every roadhead in Nepal is being extended, often on local initiative, by way of a dirt track making its painful way deeper into the countryside. And where the bus comes to the end of the road, you can rely on finding a gaadi (the all-purpose word for a vehicle) to take you further. This will often be a Tata Sumo or similarly extended 4WD; on the roughest routes you’ll even find tractor transport.

Another option is to travel by truck, many of which do a sideline in hauling passengers. Trucks aren’t licensed as passenger vehicles, and take little interest in passenger safety; you should also watch your luggage. Women travelling by truck will probably prefer to join up with a companion.

If you’re really stuck, you could try hitching, though this carries obvious risks.

By plane and helicopter

Aircraft play a vital role in Nepal’s transport network, and there will be times when US$150–200 spent on an internal flight seems a small price to pay to avoid 24 hours on a bus. Most flights begin or end in Kathmandu, but two other airports in the Terai – Nepalgunj and Biratnagar – serve as secondary hubs for western and eastern Nepal respectively. The less profitable destinations tend to be served exclusively by the state-owned Nepal Airlines Corporation (NAC; http://nepalairlines.com.np), which had a poor reputation for years but has improved slightly in the last couple of years.

Numerous private airlines operate fairly efficiently on the main domestic inter-city and tourist trekking routes. They include Buddha Air (http://buddhaair.com); Tara Air (http://taraair.com); and Yeti Airlines, (http://yetiairlines.com).

An hour-long scenic loop out of Kathmandu, the so-called mountain flight, is popular among tourists who want to get an armchair view of Everest (see box, page 101).

Image ID:MAP101Flights

Tickets

Almost all domestic airlines now allow booking online using a credit card, though you can also book through a travel agent for a small fee. Tickets bought through travel agents must be paid for in hard currency only, usually US dollars. At off-peak times you shouldn’t have any trouble getting a seat, but during the trekking season flights to airstrips along the popular trails may be booked up months in advance. Agencies frequently overbook, though, releasing their unused tickets on the day of departure, so you may be able to buy a returned ticket from the airline on the morning you want to travel. Make sure to check in early for popular flights, as they are often overbooked.

Safety and delays

Government scrutiny of the airline industry is minimal (though slowly improving). There have been almost 50 major crashes in Nepal since 1992, when two international flights went down, though most crashes occur at remote airstrips. The mountainous terrain is the main problem, particularly during the monsoon – In Nepal, clouds have rocks in them, as the saying goes – although baggage overloading and lack of maintenance checks are contributing factors. Radar was installed at Kathmandu airport after the crashes of 1992, and mountain airstrips now have limited warning systems in place, but for the most part you are relying on pilot skill and experience. It’s a close call as to whether flying is more, or less, dangerous than travelling by bus, especially during the perilous monsoon period.

Another problem with flying in Nepal is the frequency of delays and cancellations, usually due to weather. Few airstrips have even the simplest landing beacons, and many of them are surrounded by hills, so there must be good visibility to land – if there’s fog or the cloud ceiling is too low, the plane won’t fly. Since clouds usually increase as the day wears on, delays often turn into cancellations. If your flight is cancelled, you may be placed at the bottom of a waiting list, rather than being given space on the next available flight.

Helicopters

Several companies – including Nepal Helicopters (http://nepalhelicopters.com) and Fishtail Air (http://fishtailair.com) – offer charter helicopter services, which are mainly used by trekking parties with more money than time, who charter a chopper for upwards of US$1000 to save them several days’ backtracking. Companies are supposed to charter only entire aircraft, but in practice if a helicopter is returning empty from a trekking landing strip, the pilot will take on individual passengers for about the same price as a seat on a plane. Helicopter tours are also available. If the weather is too bad for planes to fly to Lukla (start point of the Everest region treks) then helicopters can often still make the journey. At such times seats for stranded airline passengers are sold at the airport in Kathmandu on a 'who pays the most' basis.

Driving and cycling

In addition to being faster and more comfortable than a bus, travelling by car, 4WD or motorbike will enable you to get to places you’d never go otherwise, and to stop whenever you like. Rental cars always come with a driver in Nepal. If you bring your own vehicle you’ll need a carnet de passage and an international driving licence; you’ll just need the latter if you rent a motorbike.

Driving tips

Driving your own car or riding a motorbike is sometimes fun, sometimes terrifying, and always challenging – drive defensively.

Observance of traffic regulations is lax, with drivers constantly jockeying for position. On roundabouts, confusion arises (for visitors) because priority officially goes to vehicles entering the roundabout. Most vehicles you want to overtake will want you to wait for their signal – a hand wave or, confusingly, a right-turning indicator (slow-moving vehicles often leave the latter on).

Follow local practice and use your horn liberally: to alert other vehicles and careless pedestrians that you’re there, when rounding sharp corners, and when overtaking – so more or less all the time. Driving without using your horn will almost certainly result in an accident.

Watch your speed on the highways, which are rarely free of unmarked hazards. Try to keep speeds to a maximum of 50–60kmph, and slow down when passing through towns and villages, keeping an eye out for vehicles, cyclists and people or animals who often wander into the road without looking. And watch out for cows: the penalty for killing one is up to twelve years in prison, the same as for killing a human being.

If you do have an accident, the first locals on the scene will always help, and for minor accidents a lively discussion will ensue (with passers-by taking sides) as to where to apportion blame. If it’s a straightforward case with no injuries, you can negotiate and pay/receive damages there and then. If one side is not happy about this, or there are injuries, the police will get involved, fill out a report and help with arbitration.

Never drive at night if you can help it: there are no dipped headlights, and all the dangers above are magnified. Aim to arrive at your destination at least an hour or two before sunset.

Petrol stations can be found in towns and cities, as well as along major routes, though you should fill up when you have the opportunity (start looking when you’ve got half a tank) as they often run out of fuel – it’s always wise to carry an extra container of petrol just in case. Off the beaten path, most villages will have at least one shop which sells bottles of petrol, though it’s usually watered down or contaminated – this is sometimes the case at the pumps too.

Cars and jeeps

In Kathmandu and Pokhara, chartering a taxi by the day is the cheapest option for short or medium-distance journeys.

Motorbikes

You’ll want to have had plenty of riding experience to travel by motorbike in Nepal, and you should of course have a licence, though it’s very unlikely to be checked (though your red/blue registration book might well be) – police usually just wave foreigners through checkpoints. Wear as much protective clothing as possible (especially a helmet, which is the law).

You will almost certainly break down at some point, in which case you will need a mechanic (mistri), who can be found in larger villages, towns and cities. If you’re in the middle of nowhere, stop any passing vehicle and ask them to call a mechanic out to you. Figure on paying a few hundred rupees for minor on the spot repairs; major repairs with parts may cost several thousand rupees. It’s a good idea to watch the work being done, as unscrupulous mechanics have been known to take new parts from within the engine and replace them with old ones.

When renting, you may have to leave an air ticket, passport or sum of money as a deposit. Check brakes, oil and fuel level, horn, lights and indicators before setting off, and note that rented bikes carry no insurance – if you break anything, you pay for it.

Finally, bear in mind that motorbiking around Nepal is a great experience, but roads are atrocious and drivers can be reckless. If you don’t have experience driving in similar conditions, it would be advisable to start out by taking an organized motorbike tour, which are not only much safer as you’re in a group, but easy to organize in Kathmandu (see page 102).

Bicycles

A rented bicycle (saikal) is the logical choice for most day-to-day getting around. One-speeders are good enough for most around-town cycling. Mountain bikes will get you there in greater comfort, and are essential for longer distances or anything steep.

Bike rental shops are rare beyond Kathmandu, Pokhara and Sauraha, but you can often strike a deal with a lodge owner. Check the brakes, spokes, tyres and chain carefully before setting off; a bell is essential. Repair shops are everywhere, but they don’t have mountain-bike parts. Theft is a concern with flashier bikes.

City transport

Taxis are confined mainly to Kathmandu and Pokhara. Although they have meters, you’ll almost always have to negotiate the fare. Nepal has been slow to catch on to ride-hailing apps, but two are available in and around Kathmandu – Pathao and Tootle, which mainly provide motorbike taxis rather than minicabs. Fixed-route tempos, three-wheeled vehicles, set off when they’re full and stop at designated points; they’re noisy and most of them – except Kathmandu’s white electric Saafa (clean) tempos – put out noxious fumes. Cycle rikshaws – rare now outside the Terai and Thamel – are slow and bumpy, but handy for short distances; establish a fare before setting off. City buses, minibuses (shorter ordinary buses) and microbuses (white Toyota people-carriers) are usually too crowded, slow or infrequent to be worthwhile, but can be useful in the Kathmandu Valley.

Accommodation

Finding a place to sleep is hardly ever a problem in Nepal, although only the established tourist centres offer much of a choice. Prices vary considerably, depending on where you stay and when. You can pay anything from a couple of dollars per night in a trekking lodge to more than US$350 in a wildlife resort, but guesthouses, where most travellers stay, typically charge between US$5 and US$35, and the standards are normally decent.

Outside the high seasons (late September to mid-November and late February to late March), or if things are unusually quiet, prices can drop by up to fifty percent: the simple question discount paunchha? (any discount?) will often do the trick. Note that official tariffs don’t generally include the government and service taxes (thirteen percent and ten percent respectively); rates are usually quoted as plus plus, meaning that both need to be applied. Offers made on the spot at ordinary guesthouses, however, are generally all-in – make sure you check.

Most places have a range of rooms, from budget, shared-bathroom boxes to en suites with a/c and TVs. Single rooms are usually doubles offered at between half and two-thirds of the full price. Hotels and guesthouses take bookings, and reservations are often necessary in the busy seasons, during local festivals or if you’re arriving late at night.

Air BnB

AirBnb (http://airbnb.com) is still a new concept to Nepal, but in Kathmandu, Pokhara and a few other places, rooms are available through the website. In most cases, these are actually apartments or hotel rooms that are bookable elsewhere, rather than rooms in private houses.

Lodges

Off-the-beaten-track lodges are aimed at Nepali travellers, and are usually known as hotel and lodge (confusingly, the hotel bit means there’s somewhere to eat). Some are reasonably comfortable, but more often than not you’ll have to settle for something fairly insalubrious. Stark concrete floors, cold-water showers and smelly squat toilets are the rule. It’s a good idea to bring your own sleeping-bag liner to protect against bedbugs and lice, and earplugs to block out the inevitable noise. In the Terai, try to get a room with a mosquito net and a working fan (or a/c).

This is not to say that Nepali lodges are to be avoided. Often the most primitive places – where you generally sit by a smoky fire and eat with your hosts – are the most rewarding. Trekking lodges on less-travelled routes (see page 258) can take this form, though there are some remarkably comfortable ones out there too.

Accommodation price codes

In this book we use price codes to indicate room prices. Prices are based on a high season double room for two people with breakfast and attached bathroom.

$ below US$30

$$ $31-60

$$$ $61-100

$$$$ above $101

Guesthouses

Many tourist-oriented places to stay in Nepal call themselves guesthouses. This category covers everything from primitive dosshouses to well-appointed small hotels. Most places offer a spread of rooms at different prices, and sometimes dorm beds too. By and large, those that cater to foreigners do so efficiently: most innkeepers speak excellent English, and can arrange anything for you from laundry to porter hire.

Despite assurances to the contrary, you can’t necessarily count on either constant hot water (many places rely on solar panels) or uninterrupted electricity (power cuts are a daily occurrence, though

Reviews for The Rough Guide to Nepal (Travel Guide with Free eBook)

[Nepal Planet Treks and Expedition · Rating: 5 out of 5 stars]

Trekking in Nepal 2024 with Nepal Planet Treks and Expeditions Pvt. Ltd.