Stockholm & the Swedish Archipelago

By Elizabet Olesen

The clean air, smelling of spruce and moss in the summer and of newly fallen snow in winter, is unforgettable in Sweden. Written by a full-time resident, this is the definitive guide to Stockholm and the beautiful archipelago close by. There are cities we

• Language: English
• Publisher: Hunter Publishing
• Release date: Oct 9, 2009
• ISBN: 9781588437914

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Introduction

Early one spring, some 30 years ago, I stuffed my beloved handmade reindeer boots with old newspapers, placed them in the basement of our home for safekeeping and set out to discover the world. I left the small town in northern Sweden where I was born and raised. Ever since, I have traveled extensively and have lived in numerous countries around the world. Still, something pulls me back to Sweden and I visit every year. Apart from the obvious reason to visit family and friends, what also draws me back is the visual beauty and the amazingly varied natural surroundings – the unspoiled wilderness, the air smelling of spruce and moss in the summer, and the soothing crisp aroma of just-fallen snow in winter time.

Then there is Stockholm, Sweden's vibrant, cosmopolitan capital that, in the light summer nights, buzzes with life on the streets and in the many outdoor restaurants and cafés. There is the coziness of the extremely well-cared-for homes and the shy smiles of the reserved but hospitable Swedes. My youngest son, an all-American young man, observed during a visit to my native town when he was just six years old, people here do not talk a lot, but when they say something they really mean it. Most of us native Swedes were for generations brought up hearing the Swedish proverb tala är silver, men tiga är guld (to speak is silver, but to keep quiet is gold). In this book I will share my native country, not only its past, present, people and traditions, but also some of its regions and the Great Swedish Outdoors.

Allemansrätten

Allemansrätten translates literally as the rights of all men, but it's mostly used to mean the right of public access. It is a very old unwritten law and a priceless asset unique to Sweden and its Nordic neighbors, Norway and Finland. The right gives each and every person access to any land, be it parkland, wilderness, or beachfront, and to all lakes and rivers, publicly or privately owned. In addition to hiking, biking, skiing, camping, and boating, it also gives you the right to pick wild berries, flowers (excluding those protected by law) and mushrooms – wherever you find them. However, with freedom comes responsibility. There is an obligation not to litter, disturb or damage anything, and to keep respectful distances from private property. For example, you have the right to bike, hike, ski and go horseback riding on all land not cultivated, including private roads, provided you do not cause damage to crops, forest plantations and fences. You may put up a tent or park an RV for 24 hours, but for longer stays you need permission from the landowner. You may swim, moor a boat and go ashore anywhere, provided you do not go too close to houses or the areas are exempt from Allemansrätten (such as military areas and bird sanctuaries). You may make a fire, as long you do not cause damage, but you have to respect fire restrictions during drought periods. You may pick up and use fallen twigs, tree branches and acorns from the ground, but you are not allowed to take bark, leaves, twigs or branches from living trees. To simplify, do not disturb, do not destroy and do not pollute.

There are minor differences between the rules in the various Nordic countries. In Sweden, exercise of the rights is overseen by the Swedish National Environmental Protection Agency.

Just over nine million people live in Sweden, a country about the same size as the state of California and just a tad smaller than France, which means there is lots of space. Located at the very top of the world, long and sparsely populated Sweden is truly a nature lover's paradise – nearly 80% of this nation consists of mountains, vast forests, lakes, rivers, wetlands and wilderness – and over 400 golf courses. About one in 20 Swedes plays golf. In this country there is a very special bond between its people and its nature and wildlife and an unequaled determination to protect and preserve. Talk to a Swede about the outdoors and you will be surprised at the uncharacteristic outpouring of emotions. A unique and ancient Swedish law, Allemansrätten (Every Mans Right), grants every person access to any wilderness area and land, even privately owned. The landscapes and the seasons of Sweden's 21 provinces offer residents and visitors an almost unlimited variety of activities, encompassing everything from speed and excitement to peace and tranquility.

Did you know?

In 1885 Stockholm was the city with the highest telephone density in the world.

Sweden is the world's third-largest exporter of music, after the US and the UK.

In Sweden more books on food are published per capita than in any other country ithe world, over 300 in 2002.

Stockholm is made up of one-third concrete, asphalt and stone, one-third water and one-third parkland.

The oldest house in Stockholm still being lived in is located on Baggensgatan 27 in Gamla Stan. It was built in 1336.

The biggest salmon caught in downtown Stockholm weighed 21.8 kg (48.3 lbs).

The Swedish word for the archipelago is skärgården, which literally means the garden of skerrets (rocky islets).

It only takes the average person three days of ski lessons to become a very good skier.

Only the female mosquito attacks human beings.

Sweden is number one in the world when it comes to per capita banana imports.

The lowest temperature recorded in Sweden was -52.6°C (-62.68°F) in Vouggatjålme, Lappland in February, 1966.

We will be starting this guide in the beautiful capital, Stockholm. This vibrant city, built on 14 islands, is more than 750 years old and mixes new with old in a most tasteful way. When in Stockholm, you should not overlook the unique archipelago, where many of the city dwellers spend the summer weekends in their beloved sommar stugor (summer cottages). From Stockholm we will go north along the Bothnian Coast, take a look at Höga Kusten (the High Coast), with its beautiful irregular topography and many off-shore islands, an area that was recently added to UNESCO's World Heritage sites. Reaching the top of the Bothnian Bay where Sweden borders Finland, we will turn northwest and head toward Kiruna in the Northern Inland – a vast region north of the Arctic Circle where the sun never sets in summer and never rises in winter. The long winters there can last from mid-October to mid-May. This is a region with unlimited opportunities to experience any possible outdoor activity summer and winter, and where you will have the privilege of visiting and learning about the indigenous Sami people.

Continuing south we will reach the colorful, folkloric province of Dalarna in Central Sweden, which is best visited in spring, summer and fall. In East Sweden we will take a look at the islands. Gotland is Sweden's largest island, with dramatic land- and seascapes and the old city of Visby, an entire city now listed as a World Heritage site. The island of Öland is the smallest province in Sweden and since 1972 easily accessible via the long and beautiful bridge, Ölandsbron.

In West Sweden we will take a look at Sweden's second city – friendly Göteborg (Gothenburg), with a long colorful history, where in 1926 the Volvo was born. We will also pay a visit to Gothenburg's archipelago before we visit the two coastal provinces that make up what the Swedes refer to as Västkusten (the West Coast). We will, of course, not overlook Göta Kanal, a remarkable historic engineering landmark, a 190-km (118-mile) waterway linking west with east via lakes, rivers and man-made canals.

In South Sweden, a not to be missed province is Småland, with its deep forests and Glasriket (the Kingdom of Crystal), where skilled glass blowers are creating incredible works of art. We will end our Swedish journey in the southernmost province of Skåne, known for its emerald-green beech forests, castles and long sandy beaches. The charming city of Malmö has, since July 1, 2000, linked Sweden with Denmark and continental Europe via the Öresundsbron bridge.

My hope is that you will find Sweden a great and fascinating country. Part of the allure of travel is discovering differences between peoples and nations. In Sweden, as everywhere in the world, some things might annoy and puzzle visitors, myself included. In summer there are the pesky mosquitos; the farther north you travel the bigger and more persistent they seem to get. In winter, the depressing darkness can get to you if you stay too long. The vast driving distances, with little to see but trees, can tend to get a bit boring. Then there is the uniquely Swedish lagom syndrome (not too much or