"ADVENTURE TRAVEL" IN COLOMBIA - MOMENTS OF MAYHEM: Or, Colombia Revisited

By Mark J. Curran

"ADVENTURE TRAVEL" IN COLOMBIA - MOMENTS OF MAYHEM
Or, Colombia Revisited is a return to the author's travel and research in Colombia years ago, but now revised and made into "historical and cultural fiction."
Professor Michael Gaherty and "Adventure Travel" Assistant Expedition Leader Amy Carrier travel to Colombia to research and scope out the country for a possible Expedition Trip by the Company. They experience wonderful travel moments, some moments of mayhem, and scary, dangerous surprises while on the journey.
Medellín, Santa Fé de Antioquia, Bogotá, Cali, Popayán, Silvia, Tunja, Places of Interest in Boyacá State including Villa de Leiva, and finally, Cartagena de Índias and Colombia's "Microcosm of the Caribbean", Isla San Andrés round out the itinerary.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Trafford Publishing
• Release date: Jul 26, 2023
• ISBN: 9781698715032

Mark J. Curran

Mark J. Curran is Professor Emeritus from Arizona State University where he worked from 1968 to 2011. He taught Spanish Language as well as the Survey of Spanish Literature, a seminar on "Don Quixote," and Civilization of Spain and Latin American Civilization. He also taught the Portuguese Language (Brazilian Variant) as well as a Survey of Luso-Brazilian Literature, Luso-Brazilian Civilization, and Seminars on Chico Buarque de Hollanda and Brazil's Folk-Popular Literature (the "Literatura de Cordel"). He has written forty-four books, eight in academic circles before retirement, thirty-six with Trafford in retirement. Color images of the covers and summaries of the books appear on his website: www.currancordelconnection.com His e-mail address is: [e-mail]

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ADVENTURE TRAVEL

IN COLOMBIA - MOMENTS OF MAYHEM

OR, COLOMBIA REVISITED

Mark J. Curran

©

Copyright 2023 Mark J. Curran.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written prior permission of the author.

This is a work of fiction. All of the characters, names, incidents, organizations, and dialogue in this novel are either the products of the author’s imagination or are used fictitiously.

ISBN: 978-1-6987-1502-5 (sc)

ISBN: 978-1-6987-1503-2 (e)

Because of the dynamic nature of the Internet, any web addresses or links contained in this book may have changed since publication and may no longer be valid. The views expressed in this work are solely those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher, and the publisher hereby disclaims any responsibility for them.

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and such images are being used for illustrative purposes only.

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Trafford rev. 07/25/2023

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CONTENTS

Disclaimer

For the Inquisitive Reader

Preface

1     Travel To Colombia And The Introduction To Medellín

2     On The Road To Santa Fé De Antioquia

3     On To Bogotá And Its Pleasures And Perils

4     The Primera Salida - West And South To Cali, Popayán And San Agustín

5     On The High Road To San Agustín

6     A Return To Girardot And Taking Chances

7     The Foray To Tunja And Highlights Of Boyacá State

8     Highlights Of Boyacá State

9     The Best Of The Best – Cartagena De Índias

10   San Andrés Isla – Microcosm Of The Caribbean

Epilogue

About The Author

1.%20Map%20of%20Colombia.jpg

Map of Colombia

DISCLAIMER

In my recent book ‘Adventure Travel’ in Guatemala – The Maya Heritage, I wrote a Disclaimer before proceeding with the book. Such is the case with this new endeavor on the country of Colombia.

Today as I write this new story and adventure in 2023, I am now much more aware of the happenings, strife, and bloodshed in much of the recent history of this beautiful country, but as with Guatemala I do not choose to write a negative or even depressing book about a country I love. Once again, I will write of what could have been in an idealistic way, albeit with dangers my wife and traveling companion did face, and with created moments of mayhem. Our story will be fictionalized in this book - Mike Gaherty and Amy Carrier of A.T. (Adventure Travel.)

Background to this book: My wife Keah and I were in Colombia in the Spring of 1975, a sabbatical from Arizona State University to investigate the Spanish Colonial Heritage in that country. There was always a police presence, but no more than in other travels in Brazil in the 1960s. The big fears were thieves and rampant crime from pickpockets and constant vigilance of possessions and luggage on local and inter-city buses. We were incredibly naïve, but I daresay our hosts who were caring people did not express undue fear for us and our itinerary. They never discouraged our exploring and trips but rather helped us plan them, and with great enthusiasm. Thinking back, someone surely watched over us, walking on city streets of Medellín, Bogotá, Popayán, Tunja, and especially Cartagena de Indias, and country lanes throughout the country, hitching rides at bus stops or on the open road. We were warned, for example, of danger and to avoid the emerald zone of old Bogotá, but we walked other nearby historic streets, and plazas, everywhere we wanted, and we saw all we wanted, albeit not at night.

I can only assume that the dangers expressed in the events list of the 1940s to 1990 (to be seen) were primarily in the jungle, deep mountains, and isolated forests and farms, ahem, with certain exceptions. We did not witness one such event.

At any rate, this book cannot be about violence, drugs, repression, guerrilla warfare and national upheaval. It will be as in Guatemala, a view pointedly IDEALISTIC of what Colombia had to offer. At least that is the intent.

FOR THE INQUISITIVE READER

A CALENDAR OF GENERAL EVENTS IN COLOMBIA FROM 1948 T0 1990

1948 to 1958. La Violencia - warfare between Liberals and Conservatives in Colombia

1958. There is an agreement to share power for sixteen years. Liberals and Conservatives will alternate in power until 1974.

1960s. The Catholic Priest Camilo Torres, the Revolutionary Priest, states that Reform is only possible through violence.

The 1960s

FARC begins (made up of Communists and Common Liberals)

ELN begins (made up of followers of Cuban style revolution)

EPL begins (made up of Maoist style revolutionaries on the Atlantic Coast)

The 1970s. There is an entirely new generation of rebels called M – 19.

Drug traffic is now essential to the entire national economy. It is a livelihood for the rebels. There is widespread social upheaval.

1978. The Federal Government initiates the Public Safety Statute, that is, dirty war tactics from Argentina: repression, disappearances, tortures, and political assassinations.

1982. There is a short hiatus brought about by a peace process and amnesty proposal by President Betancur from 1982 to 1986. (Note this is when our protagonists of the current book, Mike and Amy, are in Colombia.)

1985. M – 19 seizes the National Palace in a bold raid. Supreme Court Justices are killed as are civilian bystanders and some M – 19 Rebels.

1986. Drug traffickers are now big landholders. They establish their own militias to avoid extortion from the different Rebel Groups (FARC, etc.)

1989. Colombia declares the War on Drugs.

1989. Pablo Escobar of the Medellín Cartel commands cartel attacks.

1990. M-19 offers a cease fire; then its leader is killed.

1990-1994. President César Gaviria institutes Constitutional Reform, changes the national drug policy, lifts the state of siege, and stops the extradition of criminals. The result: the Medellín Cartel declares a truce. Escobar gives himself up in 1992 but escapes from his prison in 1993. This author met President Gaviria on the National Geographic Explorer Ship in 2013 and he spoke of reform rather than confrontation as the solution in Colombia.

The Cali Cartel now fights the Medellín Cartel. The Cali group helps the government find and kill Escobar in 1993.

1995. There are mass killings; the drug cartels rule over life. FARC, cartel mercenaries, para-militaries and government troops are all enmeshed.

2000. U.S. President Clinton declares war on drugs and offers millions of dollars in aid to Colombia and other countries to fight the war. $860 million go to Colombia alone. Guns, planes, arms.

PREFACE

Professor Mike Gaherty and Assistant Expedition Leader (AEL) of Adventure Travel, Amy Gaherty, are encouraged to join once again as partners in an Adventure Travel fact-finding trip to the country of Columbia in 1982 to scope out possibilities for an A.T. trip. If all goes well, A.T. travelers will make the same trek in1983.

The reader familiar with this series of Adventure Travel books will know that Mike in July of 1972 was invited to give cultural lectures for Adventure Travel’s trip from Manaus, Brazil to Buenos Aires, Argentina on the flagship International Adventurer. On that wonderful trip Mike was introduced to Amy Carrier, an Assistant Expedition Leader on the ship, and a friendship (and later romance) flourished. They hit it off and became true soulmates.

Due to the success of that trip, Mike and Amy paired up again to scope out an A.T. trip to Mexico, told in the book ‘Adventure Travel’ in Mexico – Plans, Pitfalls and Perils. It is 1974. Surprises and danger ensued.

Once again, due to past success, they performed the same task in Portugal and Spain, all recounted in the book Portugal and Spain on the ‘International Adventurer’. The trip was in 1977 in post – Franco and post – Salazar nervous days.

And, finally, the pair were together in Guatemala in 1981, reported in the book Aventure Travel in Guatemala – In Search of the Maya Heritage." These were dangerous times in Guatemala, and all caution was advised.

We begin this narration in April of 1982 when Mike and Amy are in the central office of Adventure Travel with CEO James Morrison and are ferreting out first plans and itinerary for the trip.

Adventure Travel Headquarters in Westwood near U.C.L.A.

Spring break at the University of Nebraska, 1982. Just as in past times I flew into Denver from Omaha and spent the night at Amy’s parents’ house. The reader may recall our last night in Guatemala when I asked Amy where we stood (recalling all the ups and downs of seven years). She just said, We are in a beautiful place, we are safe and maybe a little in love. We can leave the rest to ‘mañana!’

That was nine months ago. In that interim I was out to pasture in Lincoln, busy, content with work, but lonely. Amy was busy on several A.T. trips all over the planet. The idea of a reunion of sorts, maybe even a rekindling of our off and on romance excited me, and when I called Amy with the idea of Colombia, she at least was initially curious and may I say, even enthusiastic. I worked out a tentative itinerary and precis for the trip, sent it to her, and after several long phone calls, she said, Okay ole’ professor and friend, why not? Let’s give it a try. One provision: when we talk to James in April and present your/ our plan, I reserve the right to ask lots of questions and get some answers! Okay?

Agreed!

Mr. and Mrs. Carrier now know me well and I am sure are wondering where this is all heading and why haven’t we tied the knot. For sure, her mother was studying that matter. Her Dad seemed to be less concerned, or at least did not say much. I think he was remembering his own younger days and the sewing of wild oats; maybe I’m wrong. But we had another great evening, drinks and dinner downtown at the Brown Palace, getting caught up on the last months, and Amy and I later had what amounted to a work session in front of the fireplace at home. There were many details to be worked out, even in the preliminary plan, and we both are, uh, not hard headed, but let’s say, set in our ways.

I slept upstairs in one of the guest bedrooms, so no old romance in that sense was rekindled. Thinking to myself, Gaherty, hold your horses and bide your time and don’t do anything stupid. Like sneak into Amy’s room down the hall, just like TV dramas, or maybe a 19th Century Romantic Drama like ‘Don Juan Tenorio.’

The next morning after a relaxed breakfast with the parents we flew out on United to Los Angeles, all seeming to be the usual drill, checking in first at the Marriott on Wilshire, then calling James Morrison at A.T. and confirming a long meeting that p.m. to hash out plans. In one sense it was old hat since we did this at least three times previously (for Mexico, Portugal and Spain, and Guatemala), but this was a little different matter. Colombia, that is.

We were welcomed once again into AT’s headquarters by James Morrison’s able second in charge, Susan Gillian. A big hug to both of us (Amy has known and worked with her for years, me, a lot less, but now with four A.T. trips under my belt), and an offer of coffee which I welcomed. We chatted for a few minutes, Susan wanting to know how things were going, any recent updates or changes. (Uh, did she mean personal?) Amy could have gone on for a while since she had been on six different ocean-going trips on the International Adventurer since our time in Guatemala. Me, it was the same ole’ at the University of Nebraska, classes, some writing, and any updates on corn, alfalfa, and wheat crops and the Sand Hill Cranes out on the Platte in March. Susan smiled and said, You know, I really would like to see those cranes; I’ve taken part in many birding jaunts on R and R (or maybe herding A.T. personnel on the ships) on the International Adventurer. I said, It’s a deal, but so you will fit in, wear your farmer’s overalls, galoshes, maybe a parka and gortex liner. It’s the worst time of year in Nebraska. But then, most times of the year are the worst in Nebraska. Naah, just kidding. It’s a paradise in May and October."

Susan wanted to hear more about the prospectus for a Colombia trip, but then James popped his head in, smiled and said let’s go ahead and start in his office, a busy afternoon was ahead.

Always convivial, he made us feel right at home, praised Amy for work on the recent trips, and for that matter, our report on Guatemala in 1981. "Mike, all has been great so far, good passenger lists, great cooperation with New York Times Travel, and full steam ahead. So, tell me about your Colombia plan. This one I’ll tell you ahead of time is going to be a hard sell.

I proceeded to tell him about the germ of the idea from one of my classes at the University of Nebraska, the friendship with an Anglo student who was raised in Colombia, son of Presbyterian Missionaries serving in that country for years, and how Jim (the student’s name) had really schooled me on that country and its wonderful possibilities for travel and tourism. And I produced copies of a tentative itinerary made up in large part with Jim’s input and expertise.

1. Medellín/ Santa Fé de Antioquia

2. Bogotá/ la Casa del Marqués de San Jorge/ El Palacio Nacional del Gobierno/ El Museo Colonial/ El Museo de Oro/ Iglesia de la Tercera Orden de San Francisco/ Iglesia de San Francisco/ La Iglesia de la Vera Cruz/ La Iglesia de los Jesuitas/ el Museo Nacional

3. Girardot/ Crossing the Andes, the derrumbes,[landslides],/ El Valle del Cauca y Cali/ To Popayán:"

La Catedral/ La Torre del Reloj/ La Iglesia de San Francisco/ El Museo de Arte Sacra/ El Museo de Arte Colonial/la Puente del Humilladero/ La Iglesia de la Compania – Jesuita

4. Salida a Silvia y los Indios Guambianos, y los vendedores de Otavalo, Ecuador

5. Viaje al sitio arqueólogico de San Agustín: arrival to the village of San Agustín/ La cultura pre-colombina de San Agustín/ El Hotel Osoguaico, / Return to the Arqueological Park/ Mass in San Agustín/ On horseback to the ruins/ Summary of San Agustín.

6. Return to Girardot: The Leper Colony

PART II. BOGOTÁ AND BEYOND

1. Tourism at Monserrate

2. Sunday in Bogotá

3. Tunja and Boyacá State

4. Arrival in Tunja and the Colonial Heritage

The Central Plaza/ La Iglesia de San Francisco/ El Convento Domínico/ La Catedral de Tunja/ La Casa de Don Juan de Castellanos/ La Casa de Don Juan de Vargas/ La Iglesia de Santa Clara/ La Iglesia de