Kitchen Knives, Sharpening and Maintenance: A complete reference manual

By P.R. Torres

A knife is a tool designed with a purpose. There are so many different types of knives because with just one type it is impossible to do all possible tasks well. If there was one that served everything, we would not have so much variety of them. To make it easier for you to choose between one and the other, I have prepared a short introduction t

• Language: English
• Publisher: ibukku, LLC
• Release date: Jan 23, 2023
• ISBN: 9781685742898

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KITCHEN KNIVES,

SHARPENING

AND MAINTENANCE

A complete reference manual

P. R. Torres

El Rincón del Afilado

All rights reserved. The total or partial reproduction of this work, nor its incorporation into a computer system, nor its transmission in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or others) without prior written authorization of the copyright holders is not allowed. Infringement of such rights may constitute an offence against intellectual property.

The content of this work is the responsibility of the author and does not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher. All texts and images were provided by the author, who is solely responsible for the rights thereof.

Disclaimer:

Freehand sharpening is a simple and safe technique. But, like any other manual activity, it is not free of accidents. You must pay attention to the work you do and take the appropriate safety measures in each situation. The author is not responsible for injuries or damages that may result from performing the techniques or following the instructions explained in this book.

Conflict of interests:

The author has not received financial compensation from any company, brand or entity, nor does he work for one. All the products mentioned or recommended in the text have been by decision of the author for its quality and good results. The author declares to be free of conflicts of interest. All trademarks belong to their rightful owners, and they appear in this book for educational purposes only.

Published by Ibukku, LLC

www.ibukku.com

Graphic Design: Índigo Estudio Gráfico

Cover image: Eduardo Castro (@Jakkonoise)

Ilustrations: Clara Martín and Pablo Romero

Translation: Mariano Romero and Pablo Romero

Copyright © 2021 Pablo Romero

You can contact the author via email:

[e-mail]

ISBN Paperback: 978-1-68574-288-1

ISBN eBook: 978-1-68574-289-8

We have elevated chefs to rock star status.

But at least they know how to tune their guitars.

Index

PART 1: KNIVES

SECTION 1: PRACTICAL QUESTIONS ABOUT KNIVES

1. ABOUT KITCHEN KNIVES

WHY WE USE DIFFERENT KNIVES

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN JAPANESE AND WESTERN KNIVES

TYPES OF WESTERN KNIVES

TYPES OF JAPANESE DOUBLE BEVEL KNIVES

TYPES OF JAPANESE SINGLE BEVEL KNIVES

TYPES OF SERRATED KNIVES

PROFESSIONAL AND HOUSEHOLD HAM KNIVES

2. BEFORE BUYING A KNIFE

LET’S TALK ABOUT KITCHEN KNIVES

WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW BEFORE BUYING A KNIFE

HOW MANY KNIVES SHOULD YOU HAVE

WHY BUY JAPANESE KNIVES

WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW BEFORE ORDERING A HANDMADE KNIFE

WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW BEFORE GIVING A KNIFE

3. QUALITY KNIVES

KNIVES AND CHEFS

HOW TO DISTINGUISH A GOOD KNIFE FROM A BAD ONE

ADVANTAGES OF A GOOD KNIFE VERSUS A BAD ONE

THE PROBLEM OF BUYING EXPENSIVE KNIVES

JAPANESE PHILOSOPHY ON KNIVES

4. HOW TO USE A KNIFE

HOW TO USE A KNIFE WITHOUT ABUSING IT

HOW TO HOLD A KNIFE

WESTERN CUTTING TYPES

JAPANESE CUTTING TYPES

CUTTING LEMONS, TOMATOES AND OTHER ACID FOODS

5. OTHER KITCHEN ACCESSORIES

OTHER KITCHEN ACCESSORIES

COOKING SHEARS

VEGETABLES / POTATOES PEELERS

MANDOLINES

SECTION 2: ANATOMY OF THE KNIVES

1. GEOMETRY OF THE BLADE

THE PARTS OF A KNIFE

TYPES OF BLADE PROFILES

TYPES OF GRINDS OF A KNIFE

TYPES OF EDGE BEVELS

ONE VS. TWO BEVELS: DIFFERENCES IN CUTTING

2. ON STEEL (METALLURGY)

BASIC QUESTIONS ABOUT STEEL

CHEMICAL ELEMENTS OF STEEL

CRYSTALLINE STEEL STRUCTURES

HEAT AND CHEMICAL TREATMENTS OF STEEL

VERY HARD STEELS VERSUS VERY SOFT ONES

3. STEELS USED IN CUTLERY

TYPES OF KNIFE STEELS

HOW TO CHOOSE A TYPE OF STEEL

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN JAPANESE CARBON STEELS

AOGAMI, SHIROGAMI AND KIGAMI

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN CHINESE AND JAPANESE STEEL

ALTERNATIVE MATERIALS TO STEEL

4. WAYS TO MAKE A KNIFE

HOW KNIVES ARE MADE

FORGED VS. INDUSTRIAL KNIVES

BLADES MADE FROM VARIOUS TYPES OF STEEL

5. AESTHETICS OF KNIFE BLADES

TYPES OF FINISHES FOR A KNIFE BLADE

ABOUT DAMASCUS STEEL

6. KNIFE HANDLES

TYPES OF SHAPES OF KNIFE HANDLES

MATERIALS FOR KNIFE HANDLES

PART 2: SHARPENING

SECTION 1: SHARPENING MATERIALS

1. INTRODUCTION TO SHARPENING

WHY KNIVES GET BLUNT

HOW OFTEN KNIVES HAVE TO BE SHARPENED

WHY IT IS IMPORTANT TO HAVE A WHETSTONE

MATERIALS YOU NEED TO SHARPEN

SHARPENING KITS

2. SHARPENING STONES

TYPES OF WHETSTONES

HOW TO KNOW IF A WHETSTONE IS QUALITY

WHAT IS THE GRIT OF A STONE

WHY WE USE VARIOUS SHARPENING STONES

WHAT IS THE SLURRY

3. DIAMOND PLATES

DIAMOND SHARPENING PLATES

FLATTENING PLATES

4. STROPS

WHAT IS A STROP

LEATHER STROPS

OTHER TYPES OF STROPS

TYPES OF PASTES FOR STROPPING

5. STONE HOLDERS

TYPES OF STONE HOLDERS

6. OTHER HAND SHARPENING TOOLS

HONING RODS

PORTABLE AND POCKET SHARPENERS

RAT TAIL CONICAL RODS

GUIDED ANGLE SHARPENING SYSTEMS (JIGS)

SHARPENING GUIDES AND WEDGES

V SHARPENERS

SHARPENING WITH SANDPAPER AND A MOUSE PAD

7. ELECTRICAL SHARPENING SYSTEMS

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN FREEHAND AND MACHINE SHARPENING

HOME SHARPENING POWER TOOLS

INDUSTRIAL SHARPENING MACHINES

8. SHARPENING ACCORDING TO PROFESSIONS

SHARPENING TIPS FOR COOKS

SHARPENING TIPS FOR BUTCHERS AND FISHMONGERS’

SHARPENING TIPS FOR CARPENTERS, CABINETMAKERS AND LUTHIERS

SECTION 2: HOW TO SHARPEN

1. SHARPENING GEOMETRY

WHAT IS THE PENETRATION RATE

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN GRINDING AND SHARPENING

WHAT IS THE APPROPRIATE ANGLE TO SHARPEN A KNIFE

WHAT ARE MICROSERRATIONS

2. HOW TO SHARPEN A KNIFE WITH WHETSTONES

ADVANTAGES OF FREEHAND SHARPENING

MOST COMMON BEGINNER MISTAKES IN FREEHAND SHARPENING

BEFORE START SHARPENING

HOW TO CALCULATE THE SHARPENING ANGLE

HOW TO SHARPEN AT THE PROPER ANGLE

HOW TO GRIND A KNIFE

HOW TO SHARPEN A DOUBLE BEVEL KNIFE

HOW TO SHARPEN A SINGLE BEVEL KNIFE

HOW TO KNOW WHEN WE HAVE FINISHED SHARPENING

HOW TO REMOVE THE BURR

HOW TO TEST THE SHARPNESS OF A KNIFE

3. HOW TO USE OTHER SHARPENING TOOLS

HOW TO USE A NAGURA STONE

HOW TO FLATTEN A WHETSTONE

HOW TO USE A STROP

HOW TO USE A HONING ROD

4. ADVANCED SHARPENING TECHNIQUES

HOW TO MAKE SYMMETRICAL EDGES ON A VERY DULL BLADE

HOW TO SHARPEN CONVEX EDGES

HOW TO SHARPEN VERY THICK BLADES

HOW TO CONVERT A FLAT EDGE TO CONVEX AND VICE VERSA

HOW TO SHARPEN RECURVED (FALCATED) KNIVES

HOW TO SHARPEN SERRATED KNIVES

HOW TO SHARPEN FLEXIBLE KNIVES

HOW TO SHARPEN HAM KNIVES

HOW TO SHARPEN SUPER STEEL KNIVES

HOW TO SHARPEN CERAMIC KNIVES

WHAT IS DUAL GRIT SHARPENING

5. KNIFE REPAIRS

HOW TO REPAIR A CHIP IN A KNIFE

HOW TO REPAIR A BROKEN TIP

HOW TO REPAIR A RECURVED BOLSTER

6. SHARPENING THINGS THAT ARE NOT FIXED KNIVES

HOW TO SHARPEN A FOLDING KNIFE (NAVAJA)

HOW TO SHARPEN A BARBER RAZOR

HOW TO SHARPEN SHEARS

HOW TO SHARPEN A POTATO PEELER

HOW TO SHARPEN A MANDOLINE

HOW TO SHARPEN AN AXE

HOW TO SHARPEN A MACHETE

HOW TO SHARPEN A CHISEL

HOW TO SHARPEN THE BLADES OF ELECTRIC HAIR CLIPPERS

PART 3: MAINTENANCE

SECTION 1: NEEDED ACCESSORIES

1. CHOPPING BOARDS

WHAT DO YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE BUYING A CUTTING BOARD

TYPES OF WOODEN CUTTING BOARDS

MYTHS ABOUT WOOD HYGIENE

HOW TO TAKE CARE OF A WOODEN BOARD

2. STORAGE AND TRANSPORTATION

WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO STORE KNIVES

TYPES OF KNIFE HOLDERS

KNIFE-CARRIERS: BRIEFCASES, ROLLS AND BLANKETS

HOW TO PROTECT KITCHEN KNIFE BLADES

SECTION 2: CARE OF KNIVES AND ACCESSORIES

1. KNIVES CARE

HOW TO TAKE CARE OF A KNIFE

HOW TO TAKE CARE OF A CARBON STEEL KNIFE

HOW TO TAKE CARE OF A VERY HARD STEEL KNIFE

HOW TO WASH A KNIFE

HOW TO REMOVE RUST SPOTS FROM A BLADE

HOW TO CLEAN AND SHINE KNIFE BLADES

2. WOOD CARE

HOW TO CARE FOR THE WOOD OF HANDLES, HOLDERS AND BOARDS

HOW TO SAND WOOD

HOW TO OIL WOOD

TYPES OF OILS AND WAXES FOR WOOD

SECTION 3: CARE OF SHARPENING MATERIALS

1. CARE OF SHARPENING MATERIALS

HOW TO CLEAN A CERAMIC HONING ROD

WHY WHETSTONES CRACK

HOW TO FIX A BROKEN WHETSTONE

HOW TO MAINTAIN NATURAL STONES SO THEY SHARPEN WELL

SECTION 4: DO IT YOURSELF

1. BLADES CARE AND RESTORATION

HOW TO FORCE THE PATINA OF A KNIFE

HOW TO SATIN A KNIFE BLADE

HOW TO POLISH A KNIFE BLADE

HOW TO CLEAN A VERY RUSTY BLADE

HOW TO REMOVE A BOLSTER

HOW TO ELECTRO ETCH A BLADE

2. HOW TO CHANGE HANDLES

HOW TO CHANGE THE HANDLE OF A JAPANESE KNIFE

3. MAKE YOUR OWN SHARPENING EQUIPMENT

HOW TO MAKE A FIXED WHETSTONE HOLDER FROM SCRATCH

HOW TO MAKE AN ADJUSTABLE WHETSTONE HOLDER FROM SCRATCH

HOW TO MAKE A LEATHER STROP

HOW TO MAKE A BALSA WOOD STROP

HOW TO MAKE A WOODEN SAYA

PART 1: KNIVES

SECTION 1: PRACTICAL QUESTIONS ABOUT KNIVES

1. About kitchen knives

2. Before buying a knife

3. Quality knives

4. How to use a knife

5. Other kitchen accessories

1. ABOUT KITCHEN KNIVES

WHY WE USE DIFFERENT KNIVES

A knife is a tool designed with a purpose. There are so many different types of knives because with just one type it is impossible to do all possible tasks well. If there was one that served everything, we would not have so much variety of them.

To make it easier for you to choose between one and the other, I have prepared a short introduction to the basic concepts. With this you will have everything you need to take the first steps of your trip easily and simply.

Why we use different knives

As I said, each knife is a tool designed for a specific task. We cannot use a fillet knife to cut a bone or to open a can. That is destroying the tool we work with.

Nor can we use a kitchen cleaver to cut thin fillets. That is destroying the product we prepare. Using the right knife for each task makes cutting work faster and easier.

Using each knife for its intended purpose and not only will they last longer, but they will serve you better.

What distinguishes one knife from another

As with any other type of tool, we can find knives in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Each design has its own advantages and disadvantages, and that allows us to choose the best one for each task.

The main differences between knives are the size, the shape of the blade and the type of handle. If we go deeper, we can also look at the thickness of the blade, the type of steel and the balance.

Thick and heavy knives will be better for tasks in which the tool has to endure hard work. Those with thin and light blades will help us to make fine cuts for hours without getting tired.

Short knives are very well suited for delicate tasks and precise cuts. And the long ones make it easier to cut large pieces of meat or fish or chop many vegetables at once. And so we could continue to cover the entire range available in the market.

Japanese or western knives

Japan is the heart of the global cutlery industry right now. A wide variety of different knives are currently manufactured there, not just the traditional single-bevel Japanese ones.

However, the mentality with which they are made is different from that of western cutlery. Therefore, before buying a knife, you should know which style best suits your tastes.

Broadly speaking, a Japanese knife gives more importance to a good cutting ability than to its toughness. And in western knives the opposite is true. Some cutting ability is sacrificed in exchange for stronger blades that better withstand abuse.

If you want to read in more detail the differences between these two styles of knife making, you can take a look at this chapter DIFFERENCES BETWEEN JAPANESE AND WESTERN KNIVES.

What types of western knives are there

In Europe there are two great influences that have marked the tradition of kitchen cutlery. On the one hand we have the German knife industry, which today continues to be the center of European knife production.

In these regions, knives of soft steel are made, with wide, thick blades and a very pronounced belly. These tools can withstand any type of work, no matter how hard or abusive it is.

And, on the other, we have the strong roots of French gastronomy. In her it is preferred to use knives with more delicate forms. This influence brings us lighter, thinner and less curved blades.

Apart from these differences between the two styles, the types of knives in each area were similar. You can see a list of traditional European knives and what each one is worth for in this chapter TYPES OF WESTERN KNIVES.

What types of Japanese knives are there

The Japanese philosophy of cutlery has always put the quality of the cut above the comfort of use.

For Japanese manufacturers, the knife has to fulfill its task perfectly. Although that implies an extra effort to take care of the tool and keep it ready.

Japanese knives are made of harder steel than western ones. This means that they have more brittle blades and that they do not withstand abuse well. In return, they can afford to make thinner blades that hold a fine edge better and keep it longer.

Carbon steels are very popular in Japanese cutlery. These offer us excellent cutting properties but are more delicate to care for.

Within the range of Japanese knives, we find two major types, those with a single bevel and those with two. To learn about the types and uses of Japanese double-bevel knives, you can take a look at this chapter TYPES OF JAPANESE DOUBLE BEVEL KNIVES. And, for the single-bevel ones, you can take a look at this other one TYPES OF JAPANESE SINGLE BEVEL KNIVES.

Why it is important to have a bread knife

Serrated knives are very different from plain-edged ones, both in the way they cut and the way they are sharpened. These are used to work with materials that do not cut well with conventional continuous cutting edges.

There are different types of serrations depending on what we want to use the knife for. There are very sharp serrations that resist very well the wear caused by abrasive materials such as the crust of bread. And they also cut it better than a smooth edge. And there are rounded serrations specially designed to cut the layers of a cake straight and without crumbling them.

To know the types of serrated edges that exist and their usefulness, you can continue reading in this chapter TYPES OF SERRATED KNIVES. And, if you want to know how to sharpen this type of knives, take a look at this other HOW TO SHARPEN SERRATED KNIVES.

If you don’t know which knife to choose

Choosing a good knife for life is an important decision. Even if you don’t like cooking, it is a tool that you will use several times a day. If you choose well and treat it with care, you may take home the knife that your great-grandchildren will use. However, there are so many options available that it can be difficult to decide on one.

If you are thinking of buying a knife there are two main rules that you should keep in mind. The first, don’t skimp on the price. Always buy quality. You don’t need an exclusive knife worth thousands of dollars to cook well. But you’re not going to get much out of one made with poor-quality materials either.

As the saying goes, the poor man’s money goes twice to the store. Or as my grandmother used to say, we are not rich enough to buy cheap things.

The second is that the best knife in the world is the one that suits your needs best. And if you can try it before you buy to make sure of it, even better.

If you are thinking of buying a knife, and you want to know what to look for, you can take a look at this chapter WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW BEFORE BUYING A KNIFE.

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN JAPANESE AND WESTERN KNIVES

This is a topic that we will cover in greater depth in this chapter WHY BUY JAPANESE KNIVES. This is a short introduction to make the next two topics easier for you to understand.

There are several differences that we can find between these styles of cutlery. The first one is the geometry of the blade.

In both European and Japanese traditions, we can find double bevel knives. However, single-bevel knives are exclusive to the Japanese forge.

When we talk about the sharpening angle of a knife, we refer to the angle at which each face is sharpened. In double bevel knives the total angle of the blade is twice that angle. In single bevel knives the sharpening angle and the total angle are the same.

Single-bevel knives

There are two main differences between single bevel knives and double bevel ones. The first is how to use them to cut. And the second, the type of cut they give.

A double-bevel knife is designed to cut food in half and divide food into two equal pieces. A single-bevel knife is designed to cut thin slices from the edge. When cutting, you start at one end and move towards the other with each slice.

To learn more about how geometries influence cutting, you can take a look at this chapter ONE VS. TWO BEVELS: DIFFERENCES IN CUTTING.

As a general guideline, quality Western knives have thicker and softer blades, sharpened at broader angles than Japanese ones.

Double-beveled knives

Even within double bevel knives there are differences between one style of manufacture and another. Regarding their geometry, we find differences in:

The curvature of the edge. German knives have more pronounced curves in the belly. This greatly affects the way they handle when cutting.

The height of the tip. For the same reason, the tips of these knives are located higher with respect to the center of the blade than in the Japanese and French. The use of the tip on each of these blade styles is different.

The curvature of the spine. European knives have smoother curved loins than Japanese knives. We can see it, for example, in the flattened nose of the gyuto, located at the end of a practically straight back. With equal edge curvature, the Japanese spine has a steeper curve at the end of the blade. It is simply an aesthetic difference, but it exists.

The thickness of the blade. Japanese knives have thinner blades than European ones. Also, they are usually ground at narrower (sharper) angles. This is possible thanks to the use of different steels in its manufacture.

Other differences that we find are:

The weight. Being thinner blades, the total weight of the knife is much less. It is an advantage, except in two situations. The first is for jobs that require a heavy blade. And the second is that they can be uncomfortable to handle for some people used to heavier knives.

The type of steel. The Japanese make their knives with steels that allow the blades to be tempered to higher hardnesses. By increasing the hardness of the metal, they can give the knife a thinner blade, ground at sharper angles. This achieves a very good cutting ability in exchange for reducing the mechanical toughness of the knife.

The type of handle. It is another of the aesthetic differences, but it is worth noting it. In the European cutlery we find, obviously, European handles. And in single-bevel knives we find traditional Japanese handles. But in Japanese double bevel knives we can find one type or another indistinctly, or intermediate variations between the two. You can read more about it in this chapter TYPES OF SHAPES OF KNIFE HANDLES.

The importance of aesthetics. Although it is an issue that does not affect the function of the tool, it is also important to take it into account. Western knives are much more pragmatic than Japanese ones. That is why less concern is put into aesthetic appearance in their manufacture. A quality Japanese knife plays double the role of a cutting tool and an art piece.

In summary

It is important to know what tool we are buying before taking it home. For this reason, in the following topics we are going to thoroughly develop each of the types of knives and the uses that we can give them.

Regardless of the differences there are a couple of things common to all of them. One is that all edges wear out, no matter how good the knife is. That is why it is important to know how to sharpen them and take the effort to do it. You can take a look at this chapter WHY IT IS IMPORTANT TO HAVE A WHETSTONE to read more about it.

And the other is that any tool needs care and maintenance. It is necessary to know what each knife needs to keep it in good condition and to be willing to give it that care. You can read more about it in this chapter HOW TO TAKE CARE OF A KNIFE.

TYPES OF WESTERN KNIVES

Chef’s knife

Also called onion-slicer, is the most versatile knife. 80% of the time this will be the knife in your hand. That is why it is worth investing most of the budget in a good chef’s knife.

Their blades are usually between 18 and 24 cm long. Although the most common measurement is 20 cm (8 inches).

The German chef’s knife has a wide blade, straight spine, and a wide curve in the belly of the knife. It is designed to cut with a rocking motion.

The French knife, on the other hand, has a narrower blade. The curvature of the belly is less steep, and the spine has some drop. That is why the tip is aligned with the center of the knife, forming what is known as spear point tip.

The French chef’s knife and the Japanese gyuto are practically the same blades except for some aesthetic details.

Petty

Almost all jobs that cannot be done with a chef’s knife can be done with a petty. That is why any kitchen cannot miss a copy of each one.

This is a short and narrow blade knife. This allows us to carry out work with it that requires precision and delicacy.

Finely mincing garlic or peeling a vegetable are more comfortable jobs for a paring knife than for larger knives.

Paring knives

They are even smaller than the petty knives. They are designed to gently peel the skin of fruits and vegetables. They are also used to carve shapes into them.

Depending on the shape of the blade we can find several types. The most common are the spearpoint, the sheep’s foot and the bird’s beak.

Long fillet knife

It is the European equivalent of sujihiki. It is a knife similar to the chef’s knife but with a longer, narrower blade. This knife is long and stiff to allow long cuts in pieces of meat or fish.

Flexible fillet knife

It has a shorter blade than a chef’s knife and a much narrower blade. The blade is thin and flexible and is reminiscent of a boning knife in shape. This flexibility of the knife makes it easy to clean the fish.

Boning knife

It has a narrow and robust blade, designed to separate the meat from the bone. We can find a wide range of blade lengths. From sizes little larger than a paring knife to lengths similar to those of a chef’s knife.

They have a stiff and slightly thick blade, so they can withstand a certain degree of abuse. They are being replaced little by little by the Japanese honesuki.

Cleaver

The cleaver is a must-have in any kitchen where heavy tasks are done. It is a knife with a short, wide and thick blade, with an appearance reminiscent of a small ax.

It is the only knife designed to withstand the force of impact-cutting blows. And it is the only one that should be used to break bones or dislocate joints.

The task of this knife is not only to crush hard things, but to prevent us from using other more delicate blades for these purposes.

Other types of western knives

Within this category we could include a few more types. I have left them out of the chapter because they do not fit the theme, but it should be remembered that they exist.

Among them we find butter knives, butchers and fishmongers’ knives and serrated edge knives. You can find more information about the latter in this chapter TYPES OF SERRATED KNIVES.

On the butchers and fishmongers’ knives it is worth making a note, even if it is as a final note of the chapter. In Japan there is a long tradition of specialized knives for cutting fish. But in Spain we have two unique and very similar pieces, one for meat and the other for fish, which have nothing to envy.

I’m talking about the "media luna de pescadero (fishmonger’s crescent) and the chuletero de carnicero madrileño" (Madrid’s butcher’s filleter). Both are two jewels of national design with a very specific purpose that are worth mentioning.

TYPES OF JAPANESE DOUBLE BEVEL KNIVES

Double bevel knives are the most widely manufactured and most widely used type in Japan. Although single-bevel knives are unique to that country, they have a very specific purpose and limited utility to specific tasks.

Therefore, within the culinary tradition of Japan, the most common knives are similar to the European ones. The main differences with Europeans are, broadly speaking:

That they are made of harder steels.

That their blades are thinner.

That their main bevel and cutting edge angles are narrower.

That they withstand blows worse and are more brittle.

Japanese knives are made giving more importance to a good cutting ability than to the resistance of the blade. They need a little more care to keep them in good condition. But, in return, if well cared, they are the best cutting tools we can have in the kitchen.

Main bevel angles and blade thicknesses in Japanese one- and two-bevel knives and in Western ones.

As in the European knives, we find different profiles of blades depending on the use for which they have been manufactured.

The main types of double bevel Japanese knives we can find are:

Gyuto

It is the most versatile type of knife of all Japanese, similar in length, width, and curvature to a French chef’s knife. An approximate translation of the name is meat sword. Gyu is cow (as in wagyu) and To is edge or sword.

Despite their name, these knives are used to prepare most of your everyday food. That is why it is the main knife in any kitchen. If you are thinking of starting to buy quality knives, most of the budget should go to this piece.

We can find gyutos in a considerable range of sizes. They are available from 18 cm to 24. The most common sizes are 20 or 21 cm, but the longer blades are worth trying.

K-Gyuto

It is short for kiritsuke-style gyuto, also called k-tip gyuto. As we saw in this chapter TYPES OF JAPANESE SINGLE BEVEL KNIVES, Kiritsukes have a very characteristic blade profile, with great aesthetic appeal.

That is why there are manufacturers that make their gyutos in the shape of kiritsuke. One of the most famous examples is the Kotetsu line by Takayuki Shibata.

Gyutos with truncated tips are given this name to distinguish them from real kiritsukes. To consider a kiritsuke-shaped knife it must have a single bevel.

Santoku

The santoku is one of the most popular knives in Japanese homes. And practically all western cutlery companies have included it in their catalogs.

This type of blade has probably been the one that has changed the most with the mixture of Japanese and Western styles. Currently the santoku are equivalent to the gyuto but with less curvature in the belly and a lower tip.

Years ago, its original shape was more like that of a nakiri, but with a little more curvature. They were short blades with straighter edges than the current ones. They did not usually exceed 16 cm in length.

The width of these blades is greater than that of most kitchen knives. It is very useful for cutting vegetables and for carrying them directly over the side of the knife to the pan.

In addition, the flat tip provides extra security in the kitchen. Except for the petty, in the rest of the knives the tip is the least used part of the blade. So, we do not lose much functionality in this regard with the santokus.

Although we can find now santokus of 20 cm or more in length, it is better to look for shorter. In this way we can have a gyuto as the main knife and a santoku as a support knife.

This combination gives us a lot of play in the kitchen and allows us to go without other knives such as the nakiri. A completely straight edge is comfortable for cutting vegetables, but not useful for much else. A santoku with a very slight curve is much better suited to a greater variety of tasks.

Petty

Petty is a type of knife that covers a large number of different shapes and sizes. What they all have in common is that they are short and narrow blades, adapted to delicate work and small tasks.

They are practically identical in both knife traditions, both the Western and the Japanese. In the kitchen they are the most useful after chef’s knives or santokus. And outside of it they are undoubtedly the most versatile for any day-to-day task.

The best combination is to have a short petty (95-120 mm) and a longer one (150-160 mm). With these two blade sizes all types of possible tasks are covered for which we may need them.

If you only want to have one in the kitchen, you can opt for the smallest size, or for an intermediate one. As with gyuto and santoku, you can find them with both western and classic Japanese handles.

Nakiri

It is the double bevel version of the usuba. It is a rectangular blade knife. It has a completely straight edge and a wide blade, which makes it perfect for chopping vegetables.

Thanks to the curve-free design of the blade, the entire edge touches the cutting board with every cut. Thus, we avoid leaving uncut vegetable pieces, as can happen with curved knives.

It is very comfortable for intense vegetable cutting work but can be replaced for other types of knives. A santoku or a gyuto are not as efficient in this particular aspect but, in return, they are much more versatile.

It is a good option if you are going to cut large amounts of vegetables usually or if you want to have a small collection of knives. In both cases it is an interesting knife, but we can do without it.

Bunka

It is a knife halfway between a nakiri and a gyuto. It has a short and very wide blade, with some curvature and a truncated tip.

It has a use similar to that of the santoku, but with a wider blade and with a somewhat more practical tip. It is a type of knife that draws a lot of attention due to its attractiveness.

Ko-bunka

It is the miniature version of a bunka. This knife can be used as a substitute for a petty.

You can comfortably chop garlic or cut fruit with it. It is an interesting option for a bartender who prepares fruit cocktails and wants to have an original tool that attracts attention.

Sujihiki

A sujihiki is a long fillet knife. It has a long, narrow and rigid blade, with very little curvature on the edge. They usually are between 24 and 36 cm lenght.

The blade is designed to make long, regular slices in large pieces of meat or fish. Thanks to the length of the blade and the low curvature of the edge, long cuts can be made in a single pass. Broadly speaking, it is the double bevel version of a yanagiba.

Chukabocho

Chuca means Chinese and bocho (or hocho) means knife. It is the Japanese term for Cai Dao, the Chinese chef’s knives. They have a very wide rectangular blade, with a short handle at one end.

Although they resemble kitchen cleaver by their appearance, they have nothing to do with them. The blade of a Cai Dao is thin and fragile, like that of a gyuto.

They are the multipurpose knives of Chinese chefs, although their best function is to cut vegetables. Its wide blade width makes it very convenient to use the knife itself to carry the pieces of food to the pan.

There are thicker blade versions that can be used for impact cutting.

Honesuki

The honesuki is the Japanese boning knife. Its design is completely different from the western ones we are used to. Its blade is rigid, triangular in profile and thicker than most Japanese knives.

They were originally designed to help clean meat from the bones of small animals such as chickens. However, they have proven useful for deboning any type of animal, from rabbits to pigs to goats.

Despite its thickness, it is not advisable to test its resistance by hitting it against the bone or by prying or twisting it. For this type of use, or to open a bone, it is better to use a European knife. For everything else, this knife is a very good option for working with pieces of meat.

TYPES OF JAPANESE SINGLE BEVEL KNIVES

Single-bevel knives are an exclusive blade design of the Japanese tradition. They are used mostly by sushi chefs.

The reason is simple: its design is ideal for making fine and precise cuts in raw fish. Thanks to their geometry, they have a much thinner edge than any double-bevel knife. In return, they demand the sacrifice and dedication of having to sharpen them almost daily.

It goes without saying that a single-bevel knife is made exclusively to achieve the best possible cut. These types of blades do not withstand the slightest abuse, so they chip easily.

In a double bevel knife, there are two faces providing angles to the blade. The total angle of the cutting edge is the sum of the angle of each face. On a single-bevel knife, there is only one face that provides an angle to the blade. Therefore, the angle of that face is the total angle.

The problem with buying single-bevel knives

In the West, at least in Spain, there are many people who buy Japanese single-bevel knives without really knowing what they are buying. Many look for these knives just because they are beautiful, fashionable or because they have heard that they cut very well.

However, the use of these tools is very limited to some specific tasks. The Japanese themselves use knives with both types of geometry, depending on the purpose for which they are to be used.

If you are thinking of buying a single bevel knife, you should keep two things in mind before doing so:

The first: you must be willing to sharpen it frequently. You must have not only a sharpening stone and learn how to use it, but you will need to re-sharpen your knife every week. If you use it frequently, you may even need to sharpen it every day or two.

The second: each single-bevel knife has a very definite purpose. Apart from these tasks, they are of little use. If you’re looking for a Japanese knife that you can use for just about anything, take a look at this chapter TYPES OF JAPANESE DOUBLE BEVEL KNIVES.

Differences in cutting between one-bevel and two-bevel knives

Both types are traditionally made in Japan, each with a different purpose, peculiarities and challenges in sharpening.

The main difference between these two blade profiles is that they give very different cuts.

That is, not all types of cutting can be done with all knives. Depending on which part of the food we cut with each type of knife, we will get a good or a bad result.

Double-bevel knives are useful for making symmetrical cuts because they push the food on both sides equally as they cut. They work well for dividing food into halves. Single-bevel knives push food to one side, so they can make very thin slices. But the cutting path is irretrievably deviated if we try to use them to cut food in half.

Left-handed and right-handed knives

Double-bevel knives have symmetrical blades. Therefore, they can be used by left- and right-handers alike. However, single-bevel blades are asymmetrical. And depending on where they are oriented, you have to use the blade with one hand or the other.

Left-handed versions of this type of knife are usually sold at an additional cost over the original price. It is something to keep in mind if you are left-handed and are thinking of buying one of these knives.

Usuba

It is the single-bevel version of the nakiri. Its name literally means thin blade. It is designed to cut vegetables. The rectangular profile of the blade makes the entire edge touch the cutting board with each pass.

This blade is also excellent for cutting long strips of skin from circular vegetables, such as radish. That style of cut is called katsuramuki. You can read more about the different types of Japanese cuts of vegetables in this chapter JAPANESE CUTTING TYPES.

There is a variant of usuba in which the end of the spine is rounded like a santoku. This style of blade is called kamagata usuba. The only difference with the rest of usubas is aesthetics.

Yanagiba

It is the traditional Japanese knife for preparing sushi and sashimi. It is the single-bevel equivalent of the sujihiki. The long blade and sharp edge make it perfect for making long, smooth cuts.

It is the best tool for making delicate cuts of both large and small pieces of raw fish without bones. It also works quite well with boneless meat, and with soft proteins in general, but should not be used to cut vegetables or other types of food.

Maguro bocho

Maguro means tuna in Japanese and bocho (or hocho) is a kitchen knife. A maguro bocho is the result of making a gigantic yanagiba. There are them from 40 centimeters of blade to those of almost two meters.

These types of knives are used in fish markets to cut large pieces of tuna. To handle the longest blades a team of several people is required.

Takobiki

Tako means octopus in Japanese. This knife is a variation of the yanagiba designed to easily cut the meat of this animal. For this, it has a straighter edge than that of the yanagiba, with less curvature.

The tip of the takobiki is square for safety, as it is of no use for cutting. For this reason, takobiki are often used instead of yanagiba to cut fish in small kitchens. This way you are less likely to injure a partner when working with the long blades of these knives.

Kiritsuke

The kiritsuke is the most versatile single-bevel knife of all. It is a blade halfway between a yanagiba and a usuba. And, therefore, it can be used both to cut meat and fish as well as vegetables.

The most striking feature of the kiritsuke is its truncated tip, similar to that of a bunka. There are manufacturers who make double-bevel knives with a blade similar to that of a kiritsuke. With a similar curvature, a similar size and a truncated tip.

Those knives are not kiritsukes as they don’t have a single bevel on the blade. Instead, they are kiritsuke-tipped gyutos, also called k-gyutos or k-tip gyutos.

Although it is a versatile knife, it is not one with which we can make any cut. We can use it as a yanagiba or as a usuba, but either of those two separate knives will do its job better than a kiritsuke. And there will be many tasks for which we will not be comfortable at all.

If what you are looking for is a knife that can be used for multiple tasks, you should consider one with a double bevel. And, if you like the kiritsuke aesthetic, you can always look for a k-tip gyuto.

Deba

Deba are traditional Japanese knives for cleaning and slicing fish. Its name literally means thick blade.

Despite the thickness of the blade, they are still single bevel knives. Therefore, they are not intended to be hit with or subjected to great stress forces or blows.

They can still cut fish scales, and even small chicken bones, without losing their sharpness. But for more abusive butcher jobs, other knives such as honesuki or garasuki would have to be used.

The shape of a deba is ideal for cleaning and filleting fish. It allows us to get as much meat as possible from each piece.

Any deba is a precision tool, even the biggest ones. The size of the knife only varies depending on the size of the fish that we are going to cut.

Just like with the maguro bocho there are also debas of enormous proportions called kujira-deba. Kujira means whale.

Deba variations

Deba are the single-bevel knives that have the most variations in their blade design. Of the many styles out there, these are the three most common:

Ko-deba: Ko means small. These types of blades do not exceed 15 cm in length and are used to fillet small fish.

Mioroshi: It is a lighter and thinner version of a conventional deba. They could almost pass for a very thick bladed santoku. They are used to cut medium-sized fish, such as trout.

Yo-deba: It is a double-bevel deba. It is heavy and has a thick spine. Its blade is capable of withstanding a great deal of abuse. They are often used to cut large fish, such as wild salmon.

Soba kiri

It is a knife whose shape is reminiscent of a hand ax, although its purpose is very different. It has a long, completely straight blade that protrude from under the handle.

Due to this design, you can precisely cut the flour dough used to make Japanese noodles. It only serves this purpose. That is why it is a widely used knife to prepare ramen, but it is not used outside that environment.

TYPES OF SERRATED KNIVES

Serrated knives are a must-have in any kitchen. However, its functions, types of cuts and maintenance needs are very different from those of a smooth-edged knife.

What are the advantages of serrated knives

With serrated knives we can satisfy a series of tasks for which smooth-edged knives do not give us good results. If we cut bread or sponge cake with a serrated knife, we can get clean and straight slices with few crumbs. If we used a smooth edge, what we would achieve instead is to smash them.

Some of these tasks, such as cutting bread crust, also quickly wear down smooth edges. Therefore, by using serrated knives, we not only achieve better results, but we also preserve the rest of our tools better.

Another advantage to keep in mind is that the serrated edges are very durable. Therefore, these knives do not need to be made from high-quality steels or given a very complex heat treatment. So that a quality serrated knife is much cheaper than any other knife in our kitchen.

What types of serrated knives are there

When we think of a serrated knife, the bread knife comes to mind. However, there is a much broader repertoire of options, each adapted to a different task.

Within these knives we find:

Bread knife. They have an elongated blade and very marked teeth. Each socket (the space between tooth and tooth) is shaped like a semicircular arch. Therefore, the tips of the teeth are sharp and pointed. The tip of the knife is round for safety since it does not fulfill any function.

Tomato cutting knives. They are short and narrow, similar in shape to a table knife. They have small teeth, but very marked. Similar to those used to cut bread, but much smaller. They usually have a bit of a point, but the finish is rounded.

Meat cutting knives. They are small, short and robust. The spine is straight, and the blade traces a pronounced curve near the tip. The teeth are marked and somewhat larger than on a tomato knife. They are used to cut roasts and other cooked meats.

Pastry serrated knives. They are similar to those of cutting bread, but with a different type of teeth. The cutting edge is formed by short teeth, widely separated from each other and with a rounded tip. It is a pearly, wavy edge, as if it were made up of small hills at regular intervals. This way you can cut through soft or spongy cakes without tearing them.

How to sharpen serrated knives

They blunt much more slowly than other kitchen knives. However, when it is time to sharpen them again, the task is slow. It is not particularly difficult, but you do need to put a little patience in it.

As they have a different edge than the rest of the knives, they cannot be sharpened in the same way. We have to give them back the edge tooth by tooth.

To do this, instead of the usual stones, we use a special tool called rat tail rod. But if you have a Dremel at home (and a good pulse), you can speed up the process by using a conical or cylindrical diamond head.

To learn more about how to sharpen these types of knives, you can take a look at this chapter HOW TO SHARPEN SERRATED KNIVES.

Special boards for cutting bread

If you’re using a serrated knife, make sure you’re not using it on your regular cutting board. Serrated cutting edge teeth easily tear most materials and leave deep cuts on the surface. To avoid damaging your board you can buy a special one to cut bread. These are formed by a discontinuous surface made of wood strips with gaps between them. In this way, the knife can slide through the empty space between them without damaging the surface.

PROFESSIONAL AND HOUSEHOLD HAM KNIVES

About the jamonero (ham knife)

This cutting tool has a great relevance in Spain. Iberian ham is a sign of cultural and gastronomic identity of our country and one of our main culinary references in the world.

In order to cut this food properly we have ham knives. By using them we can cut it with the delicacy it deserves and get the best slices out of it.

We can separate the ham cuts into two main scopes. On one hand, the domestic one. The most common, in which lower quality pieces are cut with a more amateur technique.

And, on the other, the professional. In which trained experts use very specific tools to get the best combination of flavors and textures from the product.

In this chapter we will focus on doing a review of the tools of these professional cutters. We will see what makes a ham knife a good tool and how that influences the cut of the ham.

We will also see how many knives you need to have in a professional ham cutter set and how to sharpen them properly.

The ideal ham knife

Almost all western knife brands have a ham knife in their range of options. And, among the oriental brands, the salmon filleters are knives easy to adapt to the needs of ham cutting.

With such a variety of shapes, sizes, flexibilities and styles it is difficult to choose the best knife. What I am going to tell you next will greatly simplify the task of searching, comparing and choosing the ideal one: don’t look for it, there is not a perfect knife.

And so far, the simple part. Each cutter likes a different type of knife. Each one has its own way of cutting and its particular preferences. Therefore, it is impossible to say that one knife is objectively better than the rest.

The tricky part begins when looking for the ideal knife for each person.

Ham cutters don’t just have a single ham knife. Instead, they use at least three or four different ones, each adapted to a different cutting task.

When cutting a ham, different types of cuts must be made in several different areas of the piece. The variety of shapes, densities, and hardnesses on the meat means that a single knife is not well suited to all of them.

This may seem complicated. But actually, it’s something that makes life easier for cutters. Not being able to use the same knife for everything, they do not have the pressure of searching for a perfect tool.

Instead, it is much more practical to have a set of assorted knives. Each works better than the rest for a specific task and they complement each other.

We are going to see below how the characteristics of each blade influence the result we obtain with it.

Blade length

The best is to have several knives of different lengths. So, we can adapt to any situation that comes our way.

The more length of blade a ham knife has, the longer a continuous cut can be made with it. In addition, the larger size adds some extra weight to the knife and allows it to transmit more force to the cut. These two characteristics will be interesting to us in some of the knives in our set.

The more suitable length (and the most common) is between 28 and 30 centimeters. Above 30 cm, we will not obtain any benefit in increasing the length, it would hinder us when using it.

A long ham knife works very well at the beginning, when we make cuts in the center of the ham. This part has a lot of meat and there are no nooks and crannies of bone to get in the way.

But after that we find small obstacles. In them, if we use a long knife, it will become uncomfortable to handle because it will hit those obstacles when using it. For these areas, a shorter knife will be more useful.

The lower length limit for a ham knife is approximately 20 cm. Those knives are ideal for the arm shoulder. That part of the pig has a lot of bone in it, and a long one would hit it at every turn.

The shoulder (the "paletilla) is hard, so this paletero knife", in addition to being short, must be rigid. A little later we will talk about how the elasticity of the knife influences the cut of the ham.

Blade width

It is the distance from the spine of the knife to the edge. We have to look at the hardness of the ham to choose a wider or narrower knife for doing the cut.

If it is hard, we are interested in using a wider blade knife to be able to apply more strength in each cut. If we use a thin knife to cut a hard area, the blade will bend, and it will cost us more to do the work with it.

If, on the other hand, it is less cured (softer), we can use a narrow blade. This will allow us to have more finesse and maneuverability in the cutting movements.

The most common width for a ham knife is 2 cm. It is not advisable to use blades broader than that. Those go great for hard parts, so it is a good width to cut cured hams.

The disadvantages are found especially when cutting around bones. The wider the blade, the more difficult it is to maneuver through the nooks.

In contrast, we have the narrowest blades, with a width between 0.5 and 1 centimeter. These are ideal for soft areas or those with complicated shapes. We can try with intermediate widths, but the usual thing is to use knives of one type or the other, but nothing in between.

Blade thickness

In this matter there is no possible discussion. The thinner the knife blade, the better. Today most leave the factory with very thin blades. If you are going to buy a ham knife and it has a thick spine, don’t even think about it. Find another knife. The market is full of better options.

Blade stiffness

When we talk about stiffness, we mean whether or not the blade bends when pressure is applied. Note that the stiffness of the blade and its hardness are not the same. The first influences the movement of the blade and the second affects the quality of the cut.

Both in rigid and flexible blades we are interested in looking for the highest possible hardness within the available options. Soft steel will also bend if we use it to cut hard areas. This is especially true for knives with narrower blades.

In the same way, we are also interested in getting blades with good wear resistance to reduce successive resharpening. In blades with so little metal, it is important to make sure they hold the edge well. If we have to re-sharpen them frequently, their useful life will decrease quickly.

But let’s get back to stiffness. A stiff knife is good for cutting the hardest parts. It also gives us an acceptable cut on soft parts, but not as good as more flexible blades do.

A flexible, narrow blade knife is ideal for cutting in "la maza, the area where the largest amount of meat is located, and for cutting fresh areas. The fresher the meat is, the more it moves when cut. Flexible blades do not work well for cutting into la babilla", which is a very thin and narrow part. This area, located just below the mace, is the leanest part of the ham, the one with the least infiltrated fat and, therefore, the one that dries before.

For domestic use we will usually use only a single knife. In this case, the best option is to look for a semi-rigid ham knife with a narrow blade, which does not flex much. This allows us to adapt well to both areas.

Knife weight

A heavy knife is interesting to make cuts on the sides, which are made vertically. For example, the called "tercer corte", or third cut. The extra weight makes it easier to hold the knife in this position.

For the rest of the cuts, which are carried out horizontally, lighter blades are better. To hold a long knife for hours and make cuts with precision, we want it to weigh as little as possible.

It is interesting to have a heavy knife on the cutting set, so we can pick the rest of the tools as light as possible.

Types of handles

Each cutter will work better with a different handle length, thickness, weight, and shape. The best choice is greatly influenced by the way you hold the knife and handle it. According to this there is not an ideal type of handle, and each cutter must find the one that best suits their choices.

Among the most used materials there are two that stand out. On one side are the polyoxymethylene (or POM) handles. These plastic handles are hard and rigid.

And, on the other, we have the rubber handles. The biggest advantages they offer us is that they are comfortable and do not slip. They are especially interesting for Iberian ham because it sweats a lot of fat. And after several hours of continuous use, any extra contribution to comfort is welcome.

Blade geometry

To ensure a good cut, the main bevel angle should be as low as possible. One of the factors that will most limit the minimum angle at which we can grind the blade is its width. The narrower the blade, the weaker it will be if we thin it at a very low angle.

The ideal grinding angle should be a maximum of 10º for each face. Above that angle the blade will face too much resistance when cutting. The greater the angle of each face, the more the blade will slow down when cutting and the worse it will penetrate into the ham.

As for the shape, we are interested in giving it a flat grind. We do not want to sharpen in convex because the knife will work better the less steel the blade has.

A convex grind, at the same angle as a plane one, has more volume. If we remove the curve of the convex bevels and leave them flat, we will improve the cutting capacity that we will obtain. For this reason, it is very interesting to grind and re-sharpen the ham knives on a flat belt sander. Sharpening by hand, if done right, is enough. But by definition, any freehand sharpening leaves a micro-convex edge.

Sharpening on a belt sander makes it possible to hold the same angle with greater precision. It is not necessary for us to obsess over this, but if we have the option to do so, it should be used.

Regarding the kullenschliff edge, it is not useful in a ham knife. When making the cuts, the blade sides do not touch the ham. Therefore, air already enters between the knife and the meat.

And yet, when re-sharpening a kullenschliff blade, there will