Cooking Texas Style: Traditional Recipes from the Lone Star State

By Candy Wagner and Sandra Marquez

The best source of authentic recipes for the traditional comfort foods of Texas.

Just remembering the crispy fried chicken and luscious peach cobblers a grandmother or aunt used to make can set your mouth watering. And since remembering is no substitute for eating, cooks across the country have turned to Cooking Texas Style to find recipes for the comfort foods we love best. Thirty years after its first publication, popular acclaim has made this collection of favorite family recipes the standard source for traditional Texas cooking.

Here are over three hundred tasty recipes from the kitchens of Candy Wagner and Sandra Marquez. You’ll find classic Texas dishes such as chicken-fried steak, barbecue, chili, guacamole, and cornbread hot with jalapeños, as well as novel, exciting ways to prepare old favorites such as Tortilla Soup, Fajitas, and Chicken and Dumplings. Organized for easy reference, all the recipes are clearly explained, simple to prepare, and simply delicious. Cooking Texas Style is an invaluable addition to the kitchen bookshelf of anyone interested in cooking—and eating—Texas style.

“By far the best . . . Authentic book about regional cooking in Texas I have seen.” —M. F. K. Fisher

 “The best way to describe it is simply to say, try it, because you’ll find all sorts of riches. This is an imaginative concept, extremely well realized.” —Southwest Review

• Language: English
• Publisher: Open Road Integrated Media
• Release date: Feb 1, 2013
• ISBN: 9780292748934

Book preview

1. Appetizers

Beer Cheese Spread

The beer gives this spread a delicious flavor, and it is a great recipe to make ahead and keep on hand for impromptu entertaining. Store it in small crocks or jars and refrigerate. It will keep for up to 6 weeks. Just bring the cheese to room temperature before serving. The spread makes a wonderful gift, and with the use of a food processor it can be whipped up in almost no time.

1 pound Cheddar cheese

1 pound Swiss cheese

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1 clove garlic, pressed

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 12-ounce can beer

Finely grate cheeses and place in a large mixing bowl. Add mustard, garlic, and Worcestershire sauce and toss well to distribute seasonings. Add beer, mixing well, until the cheese is of a spreadable consistency.

YIELD: 5 cups

Borracho Bean Dip

When pinto beans and beer are combined, the beans literally drink up the beer, making them frijoles borrachos, or drunk beans. Borracho (bo-RA-cho) Bean Dip is a good way to use the last of any leftover beans; it can also be made with canned refried beans.

2 tablespoons bacon drippings (oil may be substituted)

1 small onion, chopped

2 cups cooked pinto beans

1/2 pound Cheddar cheese, grated

1/2 cup canned jalapeños, seeded and chopped

1/2 cup beer

salt to taste

shredded cheese for garnish

Sauté onion in bacon drippings or oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the cooked beans, mashing them as they heat, until they are not quite smooth. Reduce heat to low and add grated cheese, jalapeños, beer, and salt. Cook until all ingredients are heated through and cheese melts.

Garnish with shredded cheese and serve warm with tostados or corn chips.

YIELD: 4 cups

Avocado Pico

This recipe is a true family favorite of ours, first encountered years ago at a wonderful restaurant in Matamoros, Mexico, across the border from Brownsville. Because we could not all run to Matamoros every time we had a hankering for pico, we developed our own version and luckily so, for the restaurant no longer exists.

Avocado Pico is delicious as an appetizer when spooned into a fresh, warm corn tortilla or scooped up with a tortilla chip. It is also great as is, as a side dish or a salad course, with grilled meats, or served on wafer-thin slices of raw beef. Be sure to use firm, ripe avocados and make it as spicy as desired by altering the amount of fresh chilies.

3 cups chopped tomatoes

1 medium onion, chopped

3 tablespoons fresh cilantro (coriander), chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

3 avocados, peeled and diced

1–2 fresh Serrano peppers, seeded and minced

1 teaspoon salt

pepper to taste

1 tablespoon vinegar

2 tablespoons oil

Combine tomatoes, onion, cilantro, garlic, avocados, and 1–2 peppers, depending on desired hotness.

Season with salt and pepper to taste. Gently stir in vinegar and oil.

YIELD: 4–5 cups

Con Queso

The Spanish words con queso (kohn KEH-soh) mean with cheese, and Texans use Con Queso with a myriad of different foods. It is primarily a cheese dip which is served warm with corn chips or tostados. It can be used as a sauce over grilled steaks, as a substitute for cheese sauce over vegetables, dribbled over a chalupa, or spread on a meat pattie to make Burgers con Queso, just to give a few examples.

A quick and easy version of Con Queso can be whipped up by combining one pound of pasteurized processed cheese, which has been cubed, with one 10-ounce can of chopped tomatoes with green chilies in a saucepan and heating over a very low fire until the cheese has melted and is smooth and creamy.

4 ounces cream cheese, cubed

2 cups Cheddar or Longhorn cheese, grated

1/4 cup light cream

12 ounces canned tomatoes with juice, chopped

4 ounces canned green chilies with juice, chopped

salt to taste

In a saucepan, slowly melt cream cheese over medium heat. Add Cheddar or Longhorn cheese and stir until melted. Stir in cream.

Slowly stir in tomatoes and green chilies and continue stirring until heated through. Season with salt, if desired.

YIELD: 4 cups

Queso Fundido

Queso Fundido (KEH-soh foon-DE-doh), or melted cheese, when spooned down the middle of a soft, warm flour tortilla, is a little bit of cielo, or heaven. The dish can be enhanced with the addition of cooked Chorizo (Chapter 4), Rajas (Chapter 6), or sautéed mushrooms, but it definitely stands on its own. It can also be prepared in one larger, shallow overproof dish.

Right before serving, drizzle a little sherry over the top and flame. You then have Queso Flameado, equally delicious and with a little show.

1/2 pound Monterey Jack cheese, shredded

1/2 pound Mozzarella cheese, shredded

flour tortillas, warmed

Mix the cheeses together. Divide between four individual ovenproof dishes, about 1 cup each. Press cheese down well into dishes.

Bake at 375° for 15 minutes, or until melted and somewhat browned on top. For a brown, crusty top, place under the broiler after baking.

Serve immediately with warm flour tortillas.

YIELD: 4 servings

Paresa

When the Mexican influence and steak tartare were combined, Texas came up with Paresa. Serve it with crackers or toast rounds and plenty of cold beer. Any leftover Paresa can be made into meatballs or patties and cooked as desired. The patties make great burgers.

5 pounds ground sirloin, very lean

2-1/2 pounds Longhorn or Cheddar cheese, grated

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

salt and pepper to taste

cayenne pepper to taste

juice of 6 lemons

parsley for garnish

sliced onion rings for garnish

In a large bowl, combine ground sirloin, grated cheese, chopped onion, garlic, salt, pepper, and cayenne, mixing well. Add lemon juice and blend thoroughly.

Refrigerate for several hours before serving. When ready to serve, mound the Paresa on a tray and garnish with parsley and sliced onion rings.

YIELD: 16–20 servings

Mexican Tartare

Mexican Tartare is a beef version of seviche. The ground beef is cooked in the lime juice.

1/2 pound ground beef, very lean

6 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 cup tomatoes, finely chopped

1/2 cup onion, finely chopped

2–3 fresh Serrano peppers, minced

1 clove garlic, pressed

1/2 teaspoon salt

fresh cilantro (coriander), chopped

In a nonmetallic bowl, combine ground beef and lime juice, mixing thoroughly to separate beef and blend well with lime juice. Add tomatoes, onion, peppers, garlic, and salt, and toss to combine.

Refrigerate for several hours. When well chilled, garnish with chopped, fresh cilantro, if desired, and serve with saltine crackers or tortilla chips.

YIELD: 8 servings

Picadillo

Texans are known for their easy, carefree style of entertaining. The main ingredient that makes this work is the flexibility of the host or hostess. Often friends drop by at the spur of the moment for a short visit which turns into a fun-filled evening. With the right foods on hand, this does not have to mean hours in the kitchen or a full course meal. Picadillo (pee-kah-DEE-yoh) is a hearty, robust meat dip with a wonderful blend of flavors, which can be made ahead and refrigerated for a week or frozen for up to three montehs, ready and waiting for just such an occasion. Simply heat and serve with tostados or corn chips or spoon into warmed flour tortillas. It is guaranteed to take the edge off the biggest appetite.

1 pound ground beef

1 pound ground pork

4 large tomatoes

4 green onions, finely chopped

1 cup diced pimiento

1 cup slivered almonds

2 cloves garlic, minced

12 ounces tomato paste

4 canned jalapeños, seeded and chopped

1 cup raisins

1 teaspoon ground cumin (comino)

1 teaspoon oregano

Brown beef and pork in a large pan over high heat, separating with a fork, until cooked through. Lower heat to medium and place whole tomatoes on top of meat. Cover and let simmer 10–15 minutes. Remove tomatoes, peel and dice them, and return to pan with their juice. Stir in remaining ingredients and mix well. Cover and simmer for 20–30 minutes or until the mixture is well blended and the raisins are plump.

YIELD: 12–18 servings

Mom’s Nuts and Bolts

There are all kinds of different versions of party mix or Texas Trash, as some call this recipe, but we call ours Mom’s Nuts and Bolts. For our family, they are a real Mom comfort food that conjures up loving memories of our childhood and our children’s childhoods at their grandmother’s house.

When we were kids and came home from college for a weekend stay or a holiday visit, Mom always had plenty of Nuts and Bolts on hand for a football-watching party or just an impromptu gathering of our friends. Then when we left to go back to school, we would always find a surprise package of the mixture tucked away somewhere in our bags. Later, when we came home as adults or brought our own families home for a visit, there were always gallon jars and tins full of Nuts and Bolts around the house for all to enjoy.

There are wonderful memories of the grandchildren, each one sitting in the same old green high chair we all used as babies, eating Nuts and Bolts in the kitchen with grandmother. They all had their own style of chasing a Cheerio around the tray with a pretzel until they had delightedly speared it.

Even now, when we all gather for holidays and the initial excitement of greeting calms down, someone is sure to ask if Mom made Nuts and Bolts. Or, when we gather at the beach for Family Week, there are always plenty of volunteers to unpack the car and be the first to find the stash.

We can always tell who has had their hand in the jar by what is left, for we all have our favorite nut or bolt combination. Of course, Mom can specialize a batch if she is making it for a certain one of us.

She never thinks she has made enough, but has probably figured out by now that we will eat as much as she makes, regardless. To this day, though, she has a way of making sure that she has enough hidden away to hand out for everyone’s trip bag as we leave to go our separate ways.

When we are away from home, we try to make a batch every now and then, fully aware that it will not be the same. Mom’s Nuts and Bolts are much like Grandma Schmidt’s Gingersnaps or Grandma Erben’s Butterscotch Brownies—it is the love from her hands, the twinkle in her eyes, and the special times when we are together that make these treats even more special.

12 cups dry cereal (Wheat Chex, Corn Chex, Rice Chex, Cheerios)

2 cups pretzels

1 cup cocktail peanuts

1 cup pecan halves

3/4 cup butter

3/4 cup bacon drippings

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon seasoned salt

2 teaspoons Tabasco sauce

Mix together cereals, pretzels, peanuts, and pecans. Pour into two 9-by-13-inch baking pans.

Melt together butter and bacon drippings. Stir in Worcestershire sauce, garlic powder, seasoned salt, and Tabasco sauce. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally, and remove from the heat.

Divide the sauce between the two pans, stirring to coat the mix well. Bake at 225° for 1-1/2 hours, stirring every 20–30 minutes.

YIELD: 16 cups

Chili Nuts

Sometimes called Picosos, meaning hot ones, Chili Nuts are a great snack and the perfect accompaniment for an ice-cold beer. Adjust the degree of hot by adding more or less cayenne pepper. If stored in an air-tight container, these will keep fresh for several weeks.

4 tablespoons peanut oil or butter

1 pound raw peanuts, shelled

4 teaspoons chili powder

3/4 teaspoon paprika

2 teaspoons salt

1/2–1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Place oil or butter in a large, shallow baking pan. Add the peanuts and toss to coat evenly. Spread nuts in a single layer and bake at 300° for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Combine remaining ingredients. After the nuts have baked for 30 minutes, remove them from the oven, sprinkle them with seasoning mixture, and toss well. Return them to the oven and continue baking for 30 more minutes. Allow to cool and drain on paper towels.

YIELD: 1 pound

Salted Pecans

In the fall, when the pecan tree branches begin to droop under the weight of a bumper crop of nuts, you can look forward to Salted Pecans as snacks or packaged for holiday gift-giving, as they will keep for several weeks in an air-tight container.

4 tablespoons butter

1 pound shelled pecans

1 tablespoon salt

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

Melt the butter in a large, shallow baking pan. Add pecans and stir to coat evenly. Spread pecans in a single layer and bake at 300° for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, being careful not to overcook.

Sprinkle with salt and pepper and toss well. Cool the pecans in the pan. When cool, drain on paper towels.

YIELD: 5 cups

Queso Pesos

Little cheesy, coin-sized wafers with a hint of Tex-Mex flavor, these are a great pick-up, tidbit snack or the perfect accompaniment to Avocado Soup or Gringo Gazpacho (Chapter 3).

4 tablespoons butter, softened

1/2 pound Cheddar or Longhorn cheese, grated

3/4 cup flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons canned green chilies, finely chopped

1-1/2 teaspoons chili powder (optional)

Place softened butter in a bowl. Work in grated cheese, flour, and salt until well mixed. Work in chilies and chili powder, if desired.

Form the dough into a log about 1–1-1/4 inches in diameter. Place the log on a sheet of plastic wrap or waxed paper, fold the plastic over the log, and roll it with your palm to make the log even.

Chill the log until it is firm, 1–2 hours. Slice it with a serrated knife into 1/4-inch slices. Bake the slices at 350° on an ungreased cookie sheet for 10–12 minutes.

YIELD: 4–5 dozen

Stuffed Jalapeños

There are some people, even in Texas, who cannot tolerate the fiery hot, green jewel, the jalapeño (hal-a-PAIN-yo) pepper, at its full strength but who do enjoy its unique flavor. Stuffed Jalapeños is an example of a way to have the best of both worlds. If the veins and seeds are removed and the peppers rinsed well, much of the fire disappears, leaving a tasty treat. Serve them as an appetizer, as a garnish, or as a special addition to a relish tray.

12 canned jalapeño peppers

4 ounces cream cheese

1 tablespoon sour cream

1/4 teaspoon garlic salt

1 tablespoon finely chopped onion paprika

Cut each pepper in half lengthwise, remove veins and seeds, and drain. Mash the softened cream cheese with the sour cream; stir in garlic salt and onion. Stuff each pepper half with the cheese mixture and sprinkle lightly with paprika. Chill before serving.

YIELD: 2 dozen

Fried Jalapeños

In Texas it is said that the jalapeño can cure a myriad of illnesses from sinus headaches to ulcers. If so, then Texans should be the healthiest people around, for jalapeños are consumed in abundance in every way, shape, and form. One of these forms is Fried Jalapeños, which are an example of something so good that it does not matter how hot it is.

20–24 canned jalapeño peppers

1/2 cup yellow cornmeal

1 cup flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 cup beer

oil for frying

3–4 ounces Muenster cheese

1/2 cup flour

Make a small slit in each pepper. Remove the seeds and membranes, being careful to keep the pepper from tearing. Rinse each pepper with cold water and drain well.

In a small mixing bowl combine the cornmeal, 1 cup flour, baking powder, and salt. Add 1 tablespoon oil and the beer and mix until smooth. Allow this batter to rest for 10–15 minutes.

In a small saucepan heat 3 inches of oil to 350°. Cut the cheese in small pieces and use to fill the cavity of each pepper. Roll each pepper in 1/2 cup flour, dip in batter to cover, and fry in hot oil 1–2 minutes or until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately.

YIELD: 20–24

Fried Potato Skins

Our German heritage taught us about the versatility of the potato, and Fried Potato Skins is certainly an example. They make a delicious side dish as well as tempting appetizers. For an added twist, sprinkle crisp-fried bacon pieces or chopped green chilies over the cheese just before broiling. (Our grandmothers would remind us that the scooped-out potato should be saved for use in Mashed Potato Cakes—see Chapter 6.) Serve alone or with a dish of sour cream for dipping.

6 medium baking potatoes

oil for frying

salt to taste

1-1/2 cups grated cheese

Wash and scrub potatoes. Dry and wrap each in aluminum foil and bake at 350° for 45–60 minutes or until tender.

When done, cut the potatoes in half, lengthwise. Scoop out the potato, leaving a 1/4-inch border of potato around the skin.

Heat 3 inches of oil in a large saucepan to 385°. Fry each potato skin until crisp and golden brown. Drain on paper towels and lightly salt.

Fill each skin with 1/4 cup grated cheese. Place skins under the broiler until cheese melts.

YIELD: 6 servings

Steak Bits

Texans like their beef. Since the early days of the cattle drives, beef has been a mainstay, served for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. A hearty starter, Steak Bits combines two Texas favorites, beef and beer.

1 cup beer

1/4 cup olive oil

2 cloves garlic, pressed

2 pounds sirloin steak or round steak, 2 inches thick

1/2 cup butter

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons red wine

fresh ground pepper to taste

Combine beer, olive oil, and 1 clove of pressed garlic. Pour over steak and marinate for several hours. Reserve the marinade.

Broil or grill the steak to rare or medium rare. Cut in small, bite-size pieces and set aside.

In a saucepan combine the butter, dry mustard, remaining garlic clove, Worcestershire sauce, wine, pepper, and the remaining marinade. Heat slowly until the butter is melted and the sauce is heated through.

To serve, dunk the meat pieces with toothpicks or cocktail forks in the warm sauce, or combine the meat and sauce in a chafing dish and keep warm.

YIELD: 10–12 servings

Flautas

The Spanish word flauta (FLOU-ta), meaning flute, describes the shape of this crisp, rolled chicken taco. A great finger food, Flautas should be served warm as is or with sour cream, guacamole, or hot sauce.

1 tablespoon oil

2 tablespoons flour

1/2 cup chicken stock

1 tablespoon finely chopped onion

2 tablespoons chopped canned green chilies

1 cup cooked chicken, finely chopped

1/2 teaspoon salt

oil for frying

12 corn tortillas

In a small skillet, combine 1