Drawing Still Life: A Practical Course for Artists
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About this ebook
Still life has been a popular form of art for many hundreds of years, offering a wide choice of subjects, styles, and scale. Whether you want to work outdoors or at home, with carefully detailed studies or bold sweeps of line, with classical subjects or simple objects that you might find in your home, you will never be at a loss to find inspiration.
In Drawing Still Life, Barrington Barber explores this genre in all its richness. A teacher as well as a working artist, his clear and comprehensive instruction for artists of all levels is supported by easy-to-follow illustrations.
• Includes information and advice on materials and techniques
• Covers ways of representing different objects and textures
• Looks at different approaches to combining objects, themes, and at composition
• Offers step-by-step drawings and exercises to practise
Barrington Barber
Born 1934, Barrington was educated at Hampton Grammar School and later Twickenham Art Schoo for which he received a National Diploma of Design. He then practised as an illustrator (Saxon Artist) and Graphic Designer, was Art Director at Ogilvie & Mather and S.H. Bensons, and was a lecturer in Graphic Design at Ealing Art School. Other credits include freelance work, designer, illustrator, animator and painter at Augustine Studios. He was awarded a one man exhibition in 2000 at St. Oswald Studios, and also exhibited in Putney in 2003 and Cork Street in 2004. He was Head of Art at St James's Independent Schools. He now paints, draws, writes about art, and enjoys sports, walking, philosophy and meditation.
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- Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Excelente libro! me gusto mucho! muy recomendable! buenas ilustraciones de still life
Book preview
Drawing Still Life - Barrington Barber
Introduction
Still life is a very well-practised area of drawing and painting and has been the route by which many artists have learnt about techniques and style. This is because it is the most easily available of art’s themes and doesn’t require a model or a fine day. The artist has only to look around his home to find all he needs for an enjoyable drawing session to keep his hand and eye in.
Perhaps because of its comparatively small scale or domestic nature, it has taken time for still life to be appreciated, and from about 1600 onwards until the 20th century it sat firmly at the bottom of the ladder in the hierarchy of artistic themes. Then still life, or nature morte, as the French call it, began to be recognized as having just as much significance in the art of drawing and painting as portraiture, history painting, figure painting, or landscape.
It began to be seen that a brilliant Chardin still life was as good if not better than any painting by a lesser artist, however elevated the theme.
In one sense it is an easy option: all of it can be produced in the studio and it has none of the problems associated with other types of art. Unlike people, the objects of a still life don’t move and they don’t need rests. As a subject for novice artists still life is ideal because any objects can be used and you can take all the time you need in order to draw them correctly.
Drawing still life opens your eyes to the possibilities of quite ordinary items becoming part of a piece of art. Around any house there are simple everyday groups of objects that can be used to produce very interesting compositions. If you follow my suggestions you will quickly learn how to choose objects and put them together in ways that exploit their shape, contrasting tones and sizes, and also the materials that they are made of.
I have not assumed that all readers of this book will come to it with a great deal of experience of drawing, and so we start at a very basic level. The exercises set out are intended to ease into the subject someone who has never really drawn before, yet also provide useful refreshers for those of you who are already practised in drawing. Primarily we deal first with drawing objects, building up from simple shapes to complex, before moving on to tackle the drawing of still-life arrangements.
With these too we start very simply and gradually bring in more and more objects to create themes; you will have no shortage of themes to choose from. Conversely, you will also discover that arrangements involving few objects can be as, if not more, effective. Some of the most famous still-life artists have restricted their arrangements quite drastically and still become masters of the genre.
I do hope you enjoy exploring this area of drawing with me, and that by the end of the book you will be looking at the objects around you with a keen awareness of the possibilities they offer you for self-expression.
IllustrationFirst Steps
In this first section of the book you will find a range of different exercises, beginning with the extremely basic. The aim is to prepare you for drawing actual still-life compositions. Before the composing of any picture can be effective, the artist needs to work hard to ensure that the quality of his drawing has reached the point where he can concentrate on the design of the picture and not be concerned about the details of drawing the objects within it. Looking carefully at each object before you start to draw is a very good routine to adopt.
Give yourself plenty of practice in making careful drawings from observation. This involves correcting mistakes, leaving out parts that don’t work and redrawing until the object on your paper begins to resemble what you actually see. The process outlined is slow and painstaking. If adopted it is the foundation for a really impressive drawing procedure which should soon produce an improvement in technique.
Drawing materials
Any medium is valid for drawing still lifes. That said, some media are more valid than others in particular circumstances, and in the main their suitability depends on what you are trying to achieve. Try to equip yourself with the best materials you can afford; quality does make a difference. You don’t need to buy all the items listed below, and it is probably wise to experiment gradually as you gain in confidence.
Start with the range of pencils suggested, and when you feel you would like to try something different, then do so. Be aware that each material has its own identity, and you have to become acquainted with its individual facets before you can get the best out of it or discover whether it is the right material for your purposes.
Pencil
The normal type of wooden-cased drawing pencil is, of course, the most versatile instrument at your disposal. You will find the soft black pencils are best. Mostly I use B, 2B, 4B and 6B. Very soft pencils (7B–9B) can be useful sometimes and harder ones (H) very occasionally. Propelling or clutch pencils are very popular, although if you choose this type you will need to buy a selection of soft, black leads with which to replenish them.
Conté
Similar to compressed charcoal, conté crayon comes in different colours, different forms (stick or encased in wood like a pencil) and in grades from soft to hard. Like charcoal, it smudges easily but is much stronger in its effect and more difficult to remove.
Carbon pencil
This can give a very attractive, slightly unusual result, especially the dark brown or sepia, and the terracotta or sanguine versions. The black version is almost the same in appearance as charcoal, but doesn’t offer the same rubbing-out facility. If you are using this type, start off very lightly because you will not easily be able to erase your strokes.
Graphite
Graphite pencils are thicker than ordinary pencils and come in an ordinary wooden casing or as solid graphite sticks with a thin plastic covering. The graphite in the plastic coating is thicker, more solid and lasts longer, but the wooden casing probably feels better. The solid stick is very versatile because of the breadth of the drawing edge, enabling you to draw a line 6 mm (¼ in) thick, or even thicker, and also very fine lines. Graphite also comes in various grades, from hard to very soft and black.
Pens
Push-pens or dip-pens come with a fine pointed nib, either stiff or flexible, depending on what you wish to achieve. Modern fine-pointed graphic pens are easier to use and less messy but not as versatile, producing a line of unvarying thickness. Try both types.
The ink for dip-pens is black Indian ink or drawing ink; this can be permanent or water-soluble. The latter allows greater subtlety of tone.
Pastel/chalk
If you want to introduce colour into your still-life drawing, either of these can be used. Dark colours give better tonal variation. Avoid bright, light colours. Your choice of paper is essential to a good outcome with these materials. Don’t use a paper that is too smooth, otherwise the deposit of pastel or chalk will not adhere to the paper properly. A tinted paper can be ideal, because it enables you to use light and dark tones to bring an extra dimension to your drawing.
Charcoal
In stick form this medium is very useful for large drawings, because the long edge can be used as well as the point. Charcoal pencils (available in black, grey and white) are not as messy to use as the sticks but are less versatile. If charcoal drawings are to be kept in good condition the charcoal must be fixed with a spray-on fixative to stop it smudging.
Brush
Drawing with a brush will give a greater variety of tonal possibilities to your drawing. A fine tip is not easy to use initially, and you will need to practise if you are to get a good result with it. Use a soluble ink, which will give you a