The Learning Curve

By Kenneth J. Hall

The trilogy is about a young and fresh-out-of-university engineer who lands a job in SE Asia. Totally unknown territory for him. All the mishaps and mistakes and misunderstandings. Local ladies. Other expats. Beautiful ladies and some not so nice. Generally how he muddles his way through whilst employed by the UK government and not end up in jail.

Beginnings is how it all came about and is based in the UK, learning curve is based in SE Asia, and all the confusion and mishaps. In Old Asia Hand, which is when he feels he has a handle and a firm grip on life in SE Asia, and how mistaken he can be.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Partridge Publishing Singapore
• Release date: Feb 10, 2016
• ISBN: 9781482864069

Kenneth J. Hall

Kenneth J. Hall is a retired British mechanical engineer who has spent most of his adult life as a contractor working around the world. Of latter years, he became rather selective in where he chose to work and with whom. As a result, he acquired a vast store of interesting knowledge and background information. His books draw upon this experience, and his characters are a mixture of composite persons with a large dose of pure fantasy. He has been heard to remark that writing is far better than real life as he can make his characters do exactly as he wishes. He now lives with his Indonesian wife and their teenage daughter in SE Asia and spends his time writing, sitting quietly in the sun, and drinking cold beer.

Book preview

CHAPTER 1

T he British Airways 747 touched down at Changi Airport in Singapore at 17-50 with a fuselage twisting creak and shudder. The wing, which moments before, whilst still air born, seemed to consist of more gaps than solid metal, began to take on a more sensible shape as flaps and slots were retracted. Panels on the top of the wing popped up suddenly as the pilot applied reverse thrust, the engines roared and the aircraft's brakes groaned and shuddered under the stress of several tons of plane and about 300 passengers decelerating from a landing speed of about 150 miles per hour to a quiet and sedate parking rate in what would appear to be about 50 meters and three seconds flat.

The flight had been a long one; uneventful in itself other than it had been the first time for me to share a very limited amount of space for such a long time with 299 total strangers. I had tried to sleep but the seating arrangements on a 747 are such that they run 3 4 3 across the cattle class area and I had been delegated a rank in the centre row next to the isle and three very large Dutchmen for company. These worthy burghers had for most of the flight systematically drank their way steadily through the stocks of free beer and spirits carried on board. Other than nodding an occasional, Cheers Brit. They had drank, sat, sweated and yammered away in loud guttural grunts since take off, stopping only to shovel down the meals and call for more beer. Then, like three large, pot bellied Buddha's; they had fallen asleep, only to then produce loud guttural snores. I had never realised up until then that it is both possible to speak and snore in Dutch. There is little to differentiate between each sound. I dozed and tried to find a comfortable position for my complaining back only to be further disturbed by one of the trio clambering over me, and then returning to wake up his companions so as to ensure that they didn't miss any more free drinking time. I would have watched the film, but unfortunately there was something amiss with the sound systems on my armrest so I was limited to either not watching at all, or doing so without the benefit of soundtrack. In the end I gave up and chose the former.

We had landed at Dubai and I had taken the opportunity to stretch my legs and look over the vast duty free emporium. I was very taken by the huge array of photographic equipment and I resolved to purchase a good quality camera at the first opportunity so as to be able to record my anticipated experiences in the mystic east.

Back on board however, it was business as usual with my companions and I curled up and tried to sleep, knowing that we were only half way to Singapore and that I had several more uncomfortable hours to look forward to.

I welcomed the hostess passing me an immigration form, and collecting the useless head set as I realised that finally, the seemingly endless journey was coming to an end. I can't see the attraction in flying, other than the convenience of speed. Why the plane has windows is a mystery to me, as there is little to be seen and then only by those seated alongside of them. I got the distinct impression on my first long haul flight that it is a case of packing as many poor and unsuspecting souls into as tight a space as possible and then distracting them with announcements in several languages, pre-packaged food and free alcohol until they could be discharged at the other end, then no doubt to start all over again with another bunch. Long plane rides are things to be endured rather than enjoyed. Perhaps my Dutch colleagues had got it right after all?

I carefully read the information regarding mandatory death sentences for possession of drugs, noting at the same time that neither long hair nor chewing gum were allowed in Singapore too. As I had short hair, dislike chewing gum and the whole idea of voluntarily sticking pins into myself was anathema, I anticipated no problems with immigration.

Upon arrival I reported to the transfer desk as I had been instructed in London and was given a voucher for a hotel and taxi. I then passed through immigration and customs, collected my case and exited the concourse.

My first impression of Singapore was of the warm balmy heat, which I found pleasant in the fast approaching darkness of early evening. Lush tropical flowers were everywhere. In boxes, in tubs, even climbing the lamp standards. Everywhere was spotlessly clean too. It was rather like having been dropped into a well cared for tropical greenhouse. Everything seemed to be well ordered, and it all worked like clockwork. No rushing or pushing, no confusion, no litter or graffiti, but all quiet order and systematic organisation. Further more, people smiled. Please, no tipping. Read notices as I was efficiently ushered into an air-conditioned cab that did not allow smoking. This place, I thought, on first impressions could teach Britain a few things in social behaviour. I settled back into my seat as we drove off down a large dual carriageway, past more flowers in the centre of the road and beautiful parkland on each side. It was just like a guided tour through a huge green house where even the buildings were blended into the landscape and nothing was out of order. It was in fact quite beautiful, and I was both enthralled and captivated at my first glimpse of Southeast Asia.

My hotel was a little way out of the town, but seemed to my limited experience, a very up market sort of establishment. I was processed with speed, efficiency and friendliness. Due to the eight-hour time difference, and no doubt excitement combined with jet lag, I did not feel at all tired. I decided to shower, eat, change some money and catch a cab down town. The helpful and attractive receptionist, upon enquiry informed me that Orchard Road was the main shopping area and that I should take a cab. I decided to buy a camera.

Now I had never owned a quality camera, and my knowledge was rather limited. I was aware of the names of several reputable manufacturers but other than I wanted a good quality model that would enable me to capture my forthcoming experiences, I knew nothing. I thought it best to tell the taxi driver of my intentions, and then perhaps he could drop me off close to some suitable photographic establishment. He dropped me outside Lucky Plaza on Orchard Road.

Lucky Plaza was a large, multi storey, air conditioned shopping centre with a sort of glass cage lift thing on the outside of the building. I watched as this small silver and red rocket shaped glass container moved smoothly up and down the front of the shopping centre. Lucy Plaza was however only one of very many large shopping centres that stretched away on both sides of the wide one way street. Flowers and trees still dominated everywhere and the pavement was made up of clever small and attractive interlocking red bricks. Now I understood the reason for banning chewing gum. Have you ever noticed that in Britain the pavements are stained with dirty blotches of flattened and discarded gum? Not so in Singapore, the pavements are spotless and litter free too. Also they catered for push chairs or wheel chairs, in as much as every crossing place had a shallow ramp. People moved in an orderly fashion, crossing at designated places and waiting for the signal, traffic was heavy but courteous and it all gave a very favourable impression of order, safety and a civilised way of life. I was very impressed. A great deal of careful thought had been used in designing a street that was both totally functional and beautiful too, nothing had been spared in its lay out and the population obviously took a pride in there garden city and were at pains to maintain it.

Lucky Plaza seemed on first impression to contain several camera shops. I stopped and paused at the entrance, a little bemused by it all and then wandered in, more with a view of trying to get my bearings and adjust to this new world that confronted me. I was however, promptly addressed by a large Indian gentleman wearing a dark blue turban. Could he be of assistance perhaps? I spoke the magic words; I want to buy a camera.

The response was immediate, I found myself being gently and politely steered towards a glass counter, beneath which seemed to be every piece of esoteric equipment to satisfy the most demanding and selective of photographers. Behind the counter were shelves of cameras and lenses, along with all manner of technical apparatus, most of which was totally unfamiliar to my untutored eye. Further cameras were mounted on tripods around the establishment, along with underwater photographic equipment and even astronomy telescopes fitted with cameras. I had obviously had the good fortune to chance upon a veritable Aladdin's Cave of state of the art, high technological photographic equipment. I had however, no idea of where to begin and did not want to advertise my ignorance. My beturbaned companion turned to me, and making a sweeping gesture that encompassed the whole shop enquired, Exactly what sort of camera did you have in mind sir? I was about to answer, well make some kind of sensible noise at least, but not waiting for my reply, and adopting a knowing and professional tone, my salesman continued. 35 mm. single lens reflex, zoom lens perhaps, focal plane shutter, automatic transfer? He paused, and I stood there, I opened my mouth and made a non-committal puffing sort of a sound. He was not at all put out. Underwater perhaps, video maybe? He waited for my reaction, smiling kindly, his head a little to one side, looking for the entire world like an intelligent bird.

I don't know. I admitted lamely, Some thing simple I guess.

If this doyen of high tech. photographic equipment was at all phased by the untutored erk that had just stumbled into his world of precision optical devices, he showed no sign. No exasperated sigh fell from his lips, no annoyed frown crossed his face, If he were put out by my obvious ignorance, he showed no trace of vexation. I felt rather as if I had stumbled into some exclusive banquet and asked for fish and chips and heavy on the ketchup please. I was in fact totally out of my depth.

He only smiled even more kindly and asked in a friendly tone, And what's your budget sir? Just to give me some idea. He continued to smile, and appeared to be genuinely interested in me. Time was not important and I was the centre of his universe. I began to feel a little guilty that I should be taking up the time of this learned person, who obviously normally was more used to dealing with the Jaques Cousteaux of this world at the very least. All this was a whole new experience for me. I was only used to the Take it or leave it and do it quickly, as I have more important things to do than waste my time serving you, attitude of British shops. Or the impersonal and vampish manner of gormless check out girls in large supermarkets.

How much is this then Sharon? The fat girl with spots at the next check out till would then scratch her head, usually showering some customer's pre-packaged Australian Cheddar with a liberal sprinkling of dandruff, and reply, Dunno Di, have to ask Marlene. Bells would be rung; several times and eventually Marlene would arrive. One could tell that she was the supervisor, as she sported a clipboard. However, she would have mislaid her pen some place. Naturally she wouldn't know the price either, and she would then wander back along the shelves seeking an identical item, only to discover that this too had no price tag. Eventually she would find one that had, but then be of the opinion that it had been priced incorrectly. The whole process would then start all over again.

Not so in Singapore. No, nothing could or would be too much trouble. My blue turbaned friend smiled hopefully at me. I admitted that I didn't know one camera from another, furthermore I had no idea of the price of such equipment, other than I had been assured by numerous people that Singapore was the place to purchase one.

Right sir, starting off are we? He gave me an honest and earnest look, I nodded. He clapped his hands in a very confident way that indicated that he knew exactly what was the problem, namely one pig ignorant dope who had no idea of what he wanted and didn't know a camera from the bottom of a milk bottle, but for all that he would take time to explain in simple terms the fundamentals of photography and to help and assist in any way possible, and do so with patience and charm.

Well sir there are two ways to approach this problem. I can show you a nice simple little camera that will take nice simple little snaps. I nodded eagerly. But sir, My smiling friend continued, I'm not sure that is really what you want. I stopped nodding.

May I ask Sir, is this your first time to visit Singapore? I nodded again. And is sir staying with us, or just visiting?

I explained how I had just arrived, and was flying on to Medan the next day and that I would be living in Indonesia for two years and wanted to make some photographic record of my experiences there.

He listened carefully; nodding and making little agreeing noises. When I had finished he made a very confidential face and said, Very wise sir, very wise indeed. I am happy that you have taken the trouble to explain your circumstances so clearly to me, and I am sure that I can help you. I feel that what you require would be a middle of the range 35 mm. SLR. Nothing too complicated or too expensive, versatile, robust, light and able to take a range of accessories, so that as time goes by and you become more familiar with the equipment, you can, if you so wish attach various filters, lenses, etc. and not have to purchase a whole new set up. I really do feel that I can satisfy your needs and if you would be so kind as to bear with me sir and permit me, I would like to make a few suggestions and show sir a few samples.

How kind I thought, what a charming man. How patient and thoughtful of him. He produced a stool, ordered a cold drink for me and as it was appearing, my friendly Sikh began to quietly place several 35mm. cameras on the glass counter in front of me.

He held up a camera body and screwed on a huge black lens. Now this top of the range, state of the art, you don't need anything as complicated or as expensive as this. This on the other hand is the very bottom of the market. He indicated a much smaller and all together simpler camera. And my advice sir is to examine each and then we will look at a few middle range items and you can make some comparisons. He began to explain their various attributes to me. I sat agog. It was like listening to a very learned and patient teacher who was at pains that his pupil should miss nothing and understand all. This kindly gentleman wasn't selling me a camera; he was assisting me in making the correct choice of equipment that would see me through every photographic moment for the rest of my life. And, not only that, he was at pains to give me the very best value for money too. I was enthralled.

Now sir, in Indonesia cameras are expensive, so it makes perfect sense to purchase one in Singapore. Not necessarily from me sir, there are very many very good camera shops here. But sir, I will give you an honest deal, a valid guarantee, and very good discount. I sipped my Coke as more cameras appeared before me.

You sir are about to venture into an exotic land. He paused for effect. Lakes, volcanoes, birds, animals, plants, insects, waterfalls and sir, another pause, Jungle. Not to forget the more mundane but equally important, friends, faces, places and people. All of these you will want to capture for memory. Well that's what its all about isn't it sir?

I nodded, Yes, I guess so. Was my eager reply.

Exactly sir, but your problem is sir, a simple snappy won't do all of that.

Why not? I ventured. I was feeling more confident now as I sat and sipped my cold drink.

He looked at me kindly and said gently, Its to do with shutter speeds, depth of field and the lens sir. Sounds sensible to me I thought. I'm glad I managed to hit upon such a knowledgeable person, and one who would take the time to explain it all to me too. I settled back to learn. My new found friend and fountain of knowledge continued. Now these little jobs, He held up the small and neat little camera, These are fine for family, the beach and dog licks baby. That sort of thing, but they are not selective, nor can they be manually programmed. They can't manage close ups, distance, macro or filters. You get what you pay for sir. They are cheap, but very limited. I wouldn't recommend one to you sir, not for the sort of photographic opportunities that you are about to meet.

I looked a little bemused, and said, No? Not too sure in my own mind if I was questioning, or agreeing with his statement.

He solved my dilemma by saying very firmly, Oh very definitely not sir, and I will tell you why. Because sir you will be disappointed sir. He had stressed the disappointed bit. And sir, He continued, I don't suppose that you will be popping in and out of Singapore each week, so sir you will be stuck with it. Or sir will have to buy a new and expensive, He stressed the word expensive, Camera in Indonesia. And you will not want to be doing that now will you sir? I had to agree that I wouldn't. "So sir, I would respectfully suggest that you go a little more up market now and save yourself money in the long term. Not waste film, not miss shots worth capturing, not be disappointed and sir bear in mind prices only ever go up. In the long term, better to purchase one good unit now that can be built upon, rather than buy something that is not up to the work and then have to purchase a better unit at a later date and waste your hard earned money. I really would suggest that you consider a middle of the range SLR.

.... Single lens reflex. He added kindly, seeing my blank look. You actually look through the lens at the subject. Cut out any parallax problems. He nodded confidently, That really is the best advice I can give sir."

I continued to sit. I considered what I had been told. It would seem to make perfect sense that if I intended to take up photography as a hobby, and it had not occurred to me up to that point that I was about to embark upon such a course, that I purchase the best equipment that I could afford that would offer the greatest versatility. That I knew little about operating such apparatus should not preclude me from learning to do so and presumably the middle of the range gear was designed with simplicity of use in mind. Yes, I agreed, what I needed was a nice, user friendly middle of the range unit that could adapt to a variety of lenses and other bits and pieces as time went by but would enable me to shoot away from jungle to seascape to wild animals and insects. My earnest friend was quite correct and was waiting for a response. I nodded, Yes I suppose that is really what I need, what do you suggest?

My Sikh looked around his shop, Well sir, as I said there are many very good and reputable shops in Singapore that will be willing to sell you a camera, and if you would care to visit another establishment and ask advice, then I am sure you will receive the same advice as I have given you sir, namely what you need is a 35mm. SLR. So sir, it is really only a case of deciding which one and at what price and what essential little items you need to start you off. He smiled in a kindly and understanding manner. Now as I suspect sir is not having money to throw around, then the best value is important and it just so happens that I have a very nice little Cannon body here that could possibly be exactly what sir requires. It's an excellent unit and naturally the lens system is totally interchangeable. But sir especially for you, as you are, so to speak, starting off, and I want you to be totally satisfied and to keep coming back to me over the years, even if only for a chat and to show me some of your photographs, I will do you a special deal on a macro zoom.

What a charming man, I thought, and wondered what a macro zoom was, and further more how much such a thing would cost and what I would do with it. My friend however was busy screwing on some large lens onto a camera body that he had taken down from a shelf. He began to explain how with this system, things became systems, I noted, I could take pictures of everything from insects, to long distance and still remain in complete control. He passed the camera to me and demonstrated how it should be held and how to zoom and focus. Next he showed me how to click onto the macro system that would enable me to take close up shots of butterflies and exotic jungle insects. I was very impressed. It made sense to have a small tripod, To keep the unit steady for macro work. I had visions of selling pictures to National Geographic. I would need a flash unit, For the jungle sir, not too much light under the canopy. I'll throw in a cable release free of charge Well, I thought, I was lucky to chance upon such an expert and honest person. The thought of photographs taken in the jungle thrilled me. Naturally with such a good unit, it would be foolish to buy a poor quality flash, pity to spoil the ship etc. I didn't and was then introduced to the world of filters, a whole range of filters.

I do recommend that you invest in a UV filter sir, it not only cuts haze, but protects the coated lens, much easier to change a scratched filter than a lens sir and far cheaper too. I can give a good discount It made sense. And then there were polarising filters, Cut the reflection off water sir. He showed me some photographs to demonstrate his point, and centre clear greens, For those special portraits. and blues and browns and special effects that made rainbows and star flashes on your teeth and even ones that took multiple images and then magnifying filters that could be screwed on to each other so as to increase the power or the macro. Naturally there was far too much to absorb, so a neat and very concise little book all about starting out with an SLR that fitted so perfectly into the pocket and had blank pages specially designed for you take notes after each shot and setting for future reference. Another 35mm. to 125mm. Zoom, Standard feature with this model sir and on offer too. It covers the gap between the end of wide angle to the start of your larger lens system and at 75mm. It is perfect for portrait work. It only requires this simple adapter sir and then it will then take all of your filters and lenses. An all together very versatile system sir. All it now required was some film, a professional case to pack it all into and one of those rather stylish jacket/waistcoat things, all pockets and flaps, the sort of thing war correspondents are often seen wearing in news reels whilst at battle fronts and under fire. I did not have sufficient funds in Singapore Dollars, but my friend was happy to take plastic. Another glass of Coke, a couple of more rolls of film, thrown in for free and a rather dashing baseball cap in a soft, dark blue material that had Cannon in gold embroidery on its peak, and I was on my way. I promised to return and show my new found friend the results at a later date, and so wearing my rather too hot for comfort jacket and cap and heaving my now full and somewhat heavier than expected camera case on to my shoulder, I set off to explore more of Orchard Road. Another satisfied customer.

I wandered through Lucky Plaza and across the road to another large shopping complex, gently sweating in my waistcoat stuffed with films, and discovered that I could have bought the lot for 120 Singapore Dollars less and done a better exchange rate from the licensed money changer next door too.

I caught a taxi back to my hotel, a wiser, if not happier man, more so as my taxi driver cheerfully informed me that China Town was the place to buy any photographic equipment. Orchard Road is just a tourist trap. Bargain like Hell. he advised me. All ways divide by three and then be prepared to come up by one third only. was his sage advice.

Back in my hotel I read through the book and played with my new toys and wondered what the Hell to take a picture of.

CHAPTER 2

T he Singapore Airways 737 sailed along serenely at 30,000 feet in a cloudless blue sky. I occupied a widow seat on the right hand side, or starboard, if you are nautically inclined. The plane was not crowded and I had both seats to myself. My new camera was next to me, sitting hopefully in its new case, all lenses and gadgets ready to hand, should an exciting, for ever to be captured shot, present itself. To date however, the only thing worth photographing was the airhostesses, in their smart batik uniforms. I decided that if I was to maintain my fondly hoped for pose as some international photographer of note, in the eyes of my fellow passengers, taking shots of air hostesses would rather blow my image. More so as I was resplendent in my war correspondent's jacket and to Hell with the heat. I slurped at my tin of Tiger Beer instead and peered intently out of the window into the heat haze and nothing at all.

The plane began a gentle bank to the left and my first glimpse of the island of Sumatra came into view as we rapidly approached its coastline. Not the silver sands, azure sea and white foamed, fringed coral reefs I had expected. Actually it was more your Blackpool, and not very interesting shade of brown I noted, and the sea had a distinct tint of mud about it close to the shore. Several metallic black rivers meandered their way towards the sea, through their swampy delta regions. It seemed to be serene, if not idyllic. Inland however was more interesting, it was green. Endless rolling green. I realised that this was in fact jungle. I took more interest, and observed that the rolling green clambered up into a central jungle clad spine of mountains that seemed to run down the island parallel to the coast. The plane had lost some height and I could make out more of the terrain below. It was obviously hostile. I could see no roads just endless jungle, mountains, rivers and the occasional silver flash of a waterfall. I was fascinated by the panorama unfolding itself below me at around 450 miles per hour, more so as I realised that the mountains were volcanic in origin and I frantically grabbed at my camera in an attempt to capture on film a distant smoking cone. I zoomed and focused the lens, quickly moving down through the speeds as I had practised, until I acquired the little green light in the top right hand corner of the view finder that told me I was clear to shoot away. I wound off four quick shots in what I what I fondly hoped would be a professional manner. Then, tilting the camera up in a smooth movement. I sat back smugly in the sure and certain knowledge that had any of my few travelling companions noted my actions, then surely they would assume that here was a Time Life or National Geographic employee of some standing.

Bought yourself some new gear Buddy?

I looked around at the questioner and found myself looking at a lean, slim individual, who was draped easily into his window seat across the isle from me and a row back. I took in the reflecting sun glasses, short black hair, jeans, button down shirt and cowboy boots. This, I decided had to be a genuine, Momma's apple pie, All-American boy. All that was missing was a Stetson hat. He smiled and I placed his age at about 29 and in worldly experience several light years beyond that.

Oh, just running a film through to test the systems. I said quickly, making an off hand gesture to emphasise my total familiarity with all things photographic. My companion was not to be fooled.

New are you?

I nodded, a little ruefully. Does it show that much?

It's the sun tan that gives it away, or rather the lack of it. Always a sure sign of a new face. British are you?

I admitted that I was both new and British and held my camera up for inspection. I bought it in Singapore, I don't really know too much about it, but I'm willing to learn. I tried to get a shot of that volcano just.

He stood up, and moving across the isle, extended his hand. Bill Sears is the name, but most folks call me Rocky. Let's have a look at this gear of yours. He sat down in the isle seat opposite and took my camera. He peered into the box that contained all of the lenses, filters and assorted equipment. He looked up and said not unkindly, For someone who doesn't know much about it, you certainly bought all the basics and some more besides. Are you thinking of hiring a couple of people to carry it all around for you? Not that I'm offering, you understand. He returned to his inspection of the equipment box, and produced a special camel hairbrush that was attached to a rubber puffer. He squeezed it experimentally and watched as the hairs blew open. I know a couple of girls back in Medan that could find a use for this. You haven't got any vibrators or other little devices in here have you? He looked at me in a mixture of hope and mischief.

No. I said, shaking my head, The Indian gent that sold it all to me assured me that every item was essential, but he neglected to point out that any may be dual purposed.

Rocky laughed, Orchard Road was it? One camera store per tourist down there.

I know now. I agreed ruefully. I discovered later that I had paid over the odds.

That's nothing new. You won't have been the first to be taken in by their sales line, and you won't be the last either. Look at it this way. You have some good equipment, a valid guarantee, and it was cheaper than you could have purchased it in either the UK or in Indonesia. OK, so you ended up with a few little glossy extras. He puffed the lens brush at me. What the Hell?

I decided that this was exactly the way I was going to view the whole matter, and changed the subject. Do you live in Medan?

Yep. Well, most of the time. I work for a Singapore outfit, I'm based in Medan, but I get to move around some. I fly a 212. I must have looked blank. You know, a chopper. Its a Huie but without the side gunners thank God.

Oh, right, you are a helicopter pilot. I looked at him in a new light, I had never met a real pilot before, but Rocky was handing me back my camera and saying, Get ready, with luck we will maintain this track and you should get a few shots of lake Toba and even one of the volcanoes too. Who you working for?

I'm attached to our Embassy, well, Consul actually in Medan. At last, a chance to reclaim some ground, I thought. I had tried to sound both impressive and off hand at the same time. Obviously both had bounced off Rocky, as still staring out of the window he replied. Ah, one of Jumbo and Blossom's merry men are you, get your camera ready, Toba coming up at two o'clock.

I looked out and saw a huge expanse of water in front of us. It looked like a vast sunken crater and was so large as to contain quite a fair sized island that had a high escarpment of green clad hills at its one end. A township sat alongside the lake shore opposite the island and boats could be seen chugging away on the lake's calm blue surface. I estimated that the far end of the lake must have been at least 20 miles away and I quickly took some shots. It was obviously a very beautiful and scenic area. Rocky was giving a running commentary.

Thet's Toba, it's a sunken volcano, when that baby blew Krakatoa must have felt like a soda pop by comparison. Brought on the second ice age some say. The island is Samosir, neat little place, nice for a weekend, cool too. There is a very reasonable hotel but you can hire a Batak cottage for next to nothing

The aircraft was now much closer to the ground and I reasoned that we must be approaching Medan. The lake quickly slipped away and now I could now see roads and individual houses, red tracks and palm trees and another volcano. I snapped away. The seat belt sign winked on and Rocky buckled in. I did the same as the hostess walked down the isle checking seat backs and trays and handing out immigration forms as required.

More tin roofed wooden houses, red tracks, bonfires; rice paddi and palms zipped below us, all surrounded by greenness of all shades. The sun beat down, and we shot over a main road as the landing gear locked into position with a clunk.

Long before the aircraft had actually come to a halt and the seatbelt signs had been switched off, most of the other passengers were standing up and unloading the overhead baggage compartments. Local tradition. grinned Rocky, still lounged into his seat. Let them go, they are in a different line anyway. Welcome to Indonesia, one hour from Singapore and about a hundred years away

Unlike Singapore, were I had exited the aircraft via a passageway arrangement, here at Medan I walked down steps into the heat and sunshine and onto the apron, to follow the line of fellow passengers towards the terminal.

The airport was small and on the far side I could see a row of fighter planes parked, each with their canopy open. The immigration hall had its doors open and ceiling fans lazily wafted the air around. Smart uniformed officials lounged around chatting to each other and in a pair of booths rubber stamps could be heard banging away at machine gun rate. For all of that activity and frantic stamping, the queue I was in did not seem to move forward at any great speed. Rocky was in another queue I noticed and had struck up some animated conversation with some pretty uniformed female official. She hit him playfully on the arm and laughed. Rocky made a face and shrugged his shoulders, he was now wearing a black Stetson hat and the image was complete.

I passed through immigration and collected my luggage. Some confusion reigned in the baggage hall as custom officials opened several cases; mine however just got a cursory glance and a large chalk mark. Throughout everything pervaded the heavy scent of Surwardi's kretet cigarettes and just about every male seemed to have one stuck in his mouth. Obviously the dire health warnings had not yet reached this part of the world. Rocky again appeared at my side. Got transport Kent, someone meeting you?

Jeeps, I hope so. I answered fervently, looking around at the noise and bustle.

This is nothing pal, wait until you get through to the entrance. Look, don't worry, Blossom is pretty reliable, so I expect he will be outside, but if not, well, I will run you along to the Kranky Towers and we can have a beer, phone him and get you bedded down. No problemlah, Come on follow me, stick close and ignore all locals, and offers of assistance. He went into the concourse area with me following closely behind. He firmly pushed his way through the melee of baggage handlers, taxi touts and other persons all attempting to attach themselves to us, and spotting a white face by the entrance waved a greeting to him, shouting above the noise and confusion, Hey Blossom I've found your shutterbug buddy. We worked our way over and my new boss introduced himself.

David Lotus, pleased to meet you. I see you have been safely escorted through the combat zone by Rocky. If you just hang on a minute right here I will get the car. He moved away.

"OK buddy, that's you sorted out. Just stay put and ignore all offers and Blossom will be back.