Gelupo Gelato: A delectable palette of ice cream recipes
By Jacob Kenedy
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About this ebook
Gelupo Gelato presents a rainbow spectrum of gelati: from fruity Yoghurt & Lemongrass, Lime Sherbet or Peach and Blood Orange to creamy Marron Glacé, Bacio, Chocolate & Whisky or Espresso. There are also recipes for profiteroles, cones and brioche buns to serve your ice cream in and the only chocolate sauce you'll ever need, as well as a guide to pairing flavours.
With a simply beautiful design and charming illustrations, this is the perfect book for every ice cream lover (which, let's face it, is everyone).
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Book preview
Gelupo Gelato - Jacob Kenedy
THE JOY OF GELATO
A FROSTY MASTERCLASS
GELATO, SEMIFREDDO & GRANITA
ICE-CREAM CONES ETC.
DELICIOUS THINGS WITH GELATO IN
THERE IS ONLY ONE SAUCE
MAKE MORE!
KILLER COMBOS
INDEX
VEGAN?
THE JOY OF
GELATO
Gelato quickens the inner child – clutching a cone tightly, I am again the four-year-old who’d fall asleep on a bus holding an ice cream, licking it with my eyes closed every time the brakes rocked us. It is the frosty fountain of youth.
Every society under the sun has institutions for strengthening community and in Italy it is an impish affection for sugar that oils the cogs. Pasticcerie – pastry-shops-cum-cafés – heave with people meeting for coffee and a croissant or slice of cake every morning. In the afternoon and evening, the action moves to the gelaterie. From babies to seniors, people mill around and chatter long into the night, spilling onto the piazza in shared moments of childish joy.
In London, it feels to me we have fewer places to come together than our mainland brethren, save for our beloved pub. When a store across from my restaurant Bocca di Lupo (‘the mouth of the wolf’) became available, I leapt at the chance to see if gelato worked the same magic in Britain. Gelupo was born (and, in case there is any doubt, gelato does indeed cast the same rejuvenating spell seemingly everywhere it is made).
The name ‘Gelupo’ is partly inspired by Gelatauro in Bologna, where I had learned to make gelato – and therefore to make joy. With little more than milk and sugar, you too can create a shared moment of frozen, sweet happiness.
GO MAKE SOME GELATO.
IMPORTANT
WORDS
BASE BIANCA (bahs-eh bee-ahng-kuh)
The sweetened and thickened milk mixture used as the base for making different flavours of gelato. While there are other bases (chocolate, egg custard, caramel, ricotta and so on), base bianca is the commonest.
CHURN
To stir a mixture while chilling it enough to solidify (as in to churn butter or to churn gelato).
GELATO (jeh-lah-toh)
A churned, iced dessert – this term covers both ice cream and sorbet. The plural is gelati (jeh-lah-tee).
GELATAIO (jeh-lah-tai-oh)
Someone who makes gelato – i.e. you!
GRANITA (grah-nee-tah)
An icy slush. In Italian the plural is granite (grah-nee-tay), but in this book I have opted for ‘granitas’ because within the context of English, I cannot help but read ‘granite’ as rock.
HAPPINESS
A peculiar and perhaps delusional, but nonetheless pleasant, state of mind most easily attained by consuming gelato (or by making gelato to engender happiness in others).
SEMIFREDDO (seh-mee-freh-doh)
A parfait or frozen mousse. The plural is semifreddi (seh-mee-freh-dee).
SORBET SYRUP
A thick syrup that includes a stabiliser. Once you have blended some fruit into the syrup, you have a base for making non-dairy gelato (that is, sorbet) and all you need do is churn it.
STABILISER
An additive – either natural or synthetic – that serves to thicken and emulsify your gelato. See here for more on stabilisers.
STRACCIATELLA (stra-tchah-teh-lah)
Literally ‘raggedy’. In Italian this can mean chicken soup with beaten egg stirred through it, the cream and shredded mozzarella that goes in burrata, or a gelato with molten chocolate stirred through to create fine, flaky chips.
WHAT IS
GELATO?
I am often asked what the difference is between gelato and ice cream. Gelato is simply the Italian word for churned frozen ices – both ice creams and sorbets. So, except for the fact Italian gelato also includes sorbets (which are made without milk), there is no difference between gelato and ice cream.
And yet... there is something a bit special about Italian gelati. A great pistachio gelato tastes somehow more of pistachios than the pistachios do themselves, while a perfect orange sorbet has such intensity of flavour and texture, it is more orangey than the best orange ever. English-speaking ice creams are rich and indulgent, and they taste of creams or custards. Italian gelati taste pure.
Gelato also has a sort of gooey ‘pull’ when served at the correct temperature. An English-type ice will suddenly go from being firmly solid (like mashed potatoes with nothing added) to very liquid (like milk) as it melts. A gelato will go through a middle phase, malleable and semi-fluid, like partly beaten cream – a gooey miracle worked with sugars. It is in this moment, not-entirely-solid, that the magic happens.
HOW DOES
GELATO WORK?
In order to make gelato gooey, we make it with a blend of sugars. You may remember from school chemistry that simple solutions (one substance dissolved in water) have a single melting point, whereas solutions of multiple compounds melt over a range – that is, they melt gradually.
Sugar can make something nicely sweet and elevate the flavour, but it can also become too sweet to be nice, so we use different kinds of sugar in our gelati (adding some that sweeten less) and try not to use too much overall. Using less sugar makes the gelato harder, which is why it’s better taken from the freezer half an hour or so before serving. At Gelupo, where all the gelati need to have precisely comparable sweetness and texture at our serving temperature, each gelato is made with four or five kinds of sugar in it – but you can get perfectly good results at home with just two.
Unless you’re a bee or a hummingbird, sugar-water isn’t really the tastiest thing in the world, no matter how many fancy sugars you use. For the gelato to have body, it needs more substance – which comes from milk fat and milk proteins in an ice cream, or from fruit pulp and gelling proteins (pectins and so on)