M akinga dessert is still cooking, as much as, say, cooking a piece of fish. It took me a long time to really learn this. Cooking requires you to engage your senses, no matter what you’re making. Intuition and feel have as strong a place in the sweet kitchen as they do in the savoury, sitting alongside skill and technique in the same way. The more you cook, the more you learn to trust your instincts.
Learn to understand sugar, which provides structure, but, just as importantly, seasoning. Think of sugar in the same way you do of salt in savoury food. It should amplify flavours, and should only be tasted when you