Heritage Cookies of the Old and the New World
By Scott Pavelle and Kate Pavelle
3/5
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About this ebook
More than 250 classic cookies from the Old Country and the New World, ranging from easy, to elegant, to utterly extravagant!
What began twenty years ago as a culinary love poem from an American husband to his Czech-American wife has now evolved into an international tour de force redolent with sweet and spicy goodness. You will rely on this book time and time again for new ideas from our collective immigrant heritage of dimly remembered masterpieces.
Meet Scott Pavelle, Esq., a modern-day Renaissance Man who bakes to relax from his law practice.
Meet Kate Pavelle, his writer wife, who struggles to fit her jeans under the onslaught.
Whether you're an experienced baker or a novice, this expansive collection of European and American holiday (and other) cookies will enrich your repertoire with scores of recipes you've never seen before, and perfected versions of the ones you know.
Featuring mouth-watering photographs by eminent food photographer Laura Petrilla, this enticing cookbook will make a great gift for your family bakers – or for yourself.
Scott Pavelle
Scott Pavelle is an attorney specializing in helping small businesses grow, navigate regulatory bureaucracies, and getting a fair settlement from insurance companies.His favorite way to relax after a long day at work is baking. Inspired by his Czech wife's rich Christmas cookie heritage, he dove into a decades-long cookie research project, finally writing the "Heritage Cookies of the Old and New World" cookbook.His other works include "Charlemagne and the Admiral of Spain," a comedic medieval adventure translated and adapted from Caxton's "Chanson de Geste." His passion for wild mushroom foraging, an activity vastly more entertaining than ordinary exercise, has resulted in the web app "Bolete Filter," a mushroom identification aid hosted by the Western Pennsylvania Mushroom Club.You can contact Scott through www.pavellelaw.com.
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Heritage Cookies of the Old and the New World - Scott Pavelle
HERITAGE COOKIES
Of The Old And New World
by
SCOTT PAVELLE and KATE PAVELLE
with
Photographs by LAURA PETRILLA
Mugen Press
Pittsburgh, PA
Copyright © 2019 by Scott Pavelle and Kate Pavelle
Photography copyright © 2019 Laura Petrilla except where specifically noted. Additional photographs are by Kate Pavelle, Miranda Pavelle, or Scott Pavelle and © 2019 by Mugen Press.
Additional artwork copyright © 2019 by Miranda Pavelle
All Rights Reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any manner without the express written permission of the publisher, with the exception of editorial use in critical reviews or articles. All inquiries should be addressed to Mugen Press Inc., 110 Isolda Drive, Pittsburgh PA 15209, USA.
Mugen Press books may be purchased in bulk at special discounts for sales promotion, corporate gifts, fund-raising, book clubs, or educational purposes.
ISBN:
Table of Contents
Title Page
Conversions
Cookies & Fillings To Use Up Extra Egg Whites
Cookies & Fillings To Use Up Extra Egg Yolks
Acknowledgments & Inspirations
Introduction
Extra Spice From Kate
Methods and Ingredients
Cooking Methods
Ingredients
Drop Cookies
Chocolate Crinkle (Kringle) Cookies
Chocolate Chip Cookie Variations
Chocolate Chip Cookies (The Perfected Original)
Chocolate Chip Cookies (Thin & Crispy)
Chocolate Chip Cookies (Cakey/Puffy)
Baci di Dama (Lady Kisses)
Chocolate Clove Cookies (Mostaccioli
)
Peanut Butter Cookies
Crunchy Peanut Butter Cookies
Smooth Peanut Butter Cookies
Crispy Peanut Butter Cookies
Peanut Butter Sandwich Cookies
Chocolate Peanut Butter Cookies
Oatmeal Cookies
Our Oatmeal Apple Cookies
Classic, Chewy Oatmeal Raisin Cookies
Ginger Citrus Cookies
Lemon Drops a/k/a Lemon Knots (Anginetti
)
Ricotta Cookies
Butter & Sugar Cookies
Sandies (French Sablés)
Sugar-Topped Sablés
Browned Butter Sablés
Butter Cookies
Vanilla Butter Cookies
Chocolate Butter Cookies
Coffee-Cinnamon Butter Cookies
Swiss Mailanderli
Sugar Cookies
Sugar-Crust Versions (Our Standard)
Chocolate Sugar Cookies
Almond (Or Other Extract) Sugar Cookies
Stained Glass Cookies
Swedish Drommar (Dreams)
Dried Berry Sugar Cookies
Chewy Sugar Cookies
Brown Sugar Cookies
Checkerboard and Pinwheel Cookies
Butter Jellies
Swiss Spitzbuben
Grandma Kandler’s Butter Jellies
Linzer Tart Cookies
Almond Cookies
Hazelnut Squirrels
Scott’s Key Lime Pie Cookies
Alfajores
Scottish Shortbread
For Shortbread Cookies
For Shortbread Cakes
For Sandwich Cookies
Ultra-Traditional Scottish Shortbread
Norwegian Sandbakkel
Meltaways
Citrus Meltaways
Buttered Rum Meltaways
Scandinavian Rye Flour Cookies
Zaleti (Italian Cornmeal Cookies)
Zaleti Variations
Salted Honey Cookies
Lemon/Lime Cookies
Dorie’s World Peace Cookies
Spritz Cookies
Almond-Heavy Spritz Cookies
Butter Wreaths and Other Shapes
Thumbprints
Chocolate Thumbprints
Strawberry Soldier Buttons
Blueberry Soldier Buttons
Raspberry Soldier Buttons
Filled-After Thumbprints
Nut Horns
Mexican Wedding Cookies
Russian Wedding/Tea Cookies
Italian Wedding Cookies
Serbian Orasnice
Kourambiedes
Chocolate Nut Horns
Hamantaschen (Made With Oil)
Bizcochitos a/k/a Biscochitos (Made With Lard)
Spice Cookies
European Spice Cookie Blends
German/Dutch Spice Cookie Blends
Spice Snap Blends
Molasses Gingerbread Blends
Blends for Honey Gingerbreads and Spice Cookies
Blends for Spiced Molasses Wafers and Snowflakes
Classic Ginger Snaps
Fresh Ginger Snaps
Cardamom Snaps
Cardamom & Cinnamon Snaps
Anise Snaps
Icelandic Spice Snaps
Snickerdoodles
Polish Honey Gingerbread Snaps/Cookies (Pierniczki
)
Rolled-and-Shaped Pierniczki
Anisettes
Pfeffernusse (Pepper Nuts
)
Mediterranean Sesame Seed Cookies
French Sesame Seed Butter Cookies
DiMaggio Family Sesame Balls (Biscotti di Regina
)
Sicilian Sesame Fingers (Giuggiulena)
Greek Sesame Braids (Koulourakia)
Molded Cookies
Springerle (the Ultimate Molded Cookies)
Cocoa & Orange Springerle
Speculaas-Spiced Honey Springerle
Other Springerle Variations
Molasses Gingerbread
Pardubice Honey Gingerbread
Anne’s Moldable Lemon Butter Cookie
Some Sample Variations
Nut Dough Speculaas (Dutch Windmills)
Czech Bear Paws and Chocolate Bear Paws
Czech Honey Bear Paws
Waybreads
Lebkuchen (With Options)
Leckerli (Honey-Spice Cookies)
Maple Bourbon Pecan Leckerli
Totenbeinli
Hermits
Spanish Bar Sandwich Cookies
Cocoa Rococo
Trail Mix Rococo
Flaky Cookies
Fruit & Nut Filling
Butter Doughs
Real Puff Pastry
Quick Puff Pastry
Leavened Flaky Doughs
Baking Powder/Soda Dough = Yeast Dough
Cream Cheese (and Other Dairy) Doughs
Flaky Cream Cheese
Dough Formula
Notes on Flaky Doughs
Homemade Ingredient-Cheeses & Etc.
Homemade Ricotta a/k/a Tvaroh a/k/a Queso Fresco a/k/a Paneer
Homemade Cottage Cheese
Homemade Farmer’s Cheese a/k/a Quark; and Cream Cheese
Homemade Neufchatel Cheese
Homemade Yogurt, Greek Yogurt, and Yogurt Cheese
Rugelach
Rugelach Horns
Rugelach Rolls
Northern Stars/Pinwheels (Joulutortut
)
Kolachy
Flaky Foldover Cookies
Goose Feet (Gusinie Tlapki
)
Palmiers a/k/a Elephant Ears
Meringue Cookies
The Meringue Trio – French, Italian, and Swiss
Cinnamon Stars (Zimtsterne
)
Vanilla Sticks
Brunsli
Amaretti
Bulgarian Orehovki
Coconut Macaroons
Bittersweet Chocolate Macaroons
Chocolate Meringues
Quick Chocolate Glaze
Anise Drops
Anise Chrabeli (Little Claws
)
Meringue Kisses
Double Nut Meringue Kisses (Filled with Dacquoise)
Royal Icing Ornaments
For Snowflake Ornaments
Macarons – The Master Method Explained
Macarons
Salted Caramel Macarons
Strawberry, Raspberry, Blueberry & Vanilla Macarons
Chocolate, Nutella,® Coffee & Matcha Macarons
Lemon, Lime & Similar Macarons
Waffles & Wafers
Pizzelles
Vanilla Pizzelles
Chocolate Pizzelles
Almond Pizzelles
Stroopwafels
Lemon Wafers
Lemon Waffle Wafers
Lemon Sandwich Wafers
Lime Wafers
Pepperkakor
Moravian Snowflake Cookies
Royal Icing
Scandinavian Cocoa Snowflake Cookies
Benne (a/k/a Sesame) Wafers
Benne Cookies
Spiced Benne Wafers/Cookies
Peanut Wafers
Almond, Hazelnut, Walnut, & Etc. Wafers
Lace Cookies
Citrus Lace Cookies
Oatmeal, Peanut, Pecan & Other Nut Lace Cookies
Sesame & Other Seed Lace Cookies
Spiced Lace Cookies
Rum Lace Cookies
Florentine Lace Cookies
Fairy Gingerbread
No-Bake Cookies
Sugarplums
Oreo® Truffles
Buckeyes
Rum/Bourbon Balls
Chocolate Rum/Bourbon Balls
Gozinaki (Walnut-Honey Squares)
Comparing to Nut Brittle Candy
Chocolate Salami (a/k/a Saucisson, a/k/a Sausages, Etc.)
Brazilian Brigadeiros
Chocolate Truffles
Flavored Chocolate Truffles
Coffee Truffles
Not-Quite-A-Cookie Cookies
Fig Watertowns
Cucciddati
Finikia a/k/a Melomakarona (Greek Honey-Walnut Christmas Cookies)
New York City Black & Whites
Millionaire’s Shortbread
Peach Cookies
Biscotti
Tender Biscotti
Extra Crispy No Fat Biscotti
Spiced Biscotti
Mandelbrot (Almond Bread a/k/a Jewish Biscotti)
Cream Cheese Crust For Tassies
Blind-Baked Cream Cheese Dough
Chocolate Crust Option
Pecan Tassies
Maple Pecan Tassies
Baklava Tassies
Persian Baklava Tassies
Banbury Tea Tarts (Fruit Filling)
Infinite Banbury Tart Variations
Bakewell Tassies (Almond-Berry)
Optional Fondant Coating
Bakewell Variations
Cheesecake Tassies
Peanut Butter Cup Tassies
Hazelnut, Almond & Other-Cup Variations
Caramel Tassies
Salted Chocolate Topping
Caramel Tassie Frosting
The Famous Tassie Cheat (Blind Baked Crusts)
Lemon Curd Tassies
Lime Curd Tassies
Pineapple Curd Tassies
Raspberry Curd Tassies
Sour Apple/Berry/Cherry Curd Tassies
Chocolate Ganache Tassies
Coffee Ganache Tassies
Madeleines
Chocolate Madeleines
Browned Butter & Honey Madeleines
Lavender (or Other Herb) Madeleines
Lemon Madeleines
Fillings
Classic Fruit Fillings
Apricot Filling
Fig Filling
Prune Filling (a/k/a Lekvar a/k/a Povidla)
Master Recipes: Fruit & Nut Fillings
Fruit & Nut Filling
Mixed Fruit Filling
Sweet Nut Filling
Apple Walnut Filling
Miscellaneous Fillings
Peanut Butter Filling
Poppy Seed Filling
Sweet Cheese Filling
Spanish Bar
Cream Cheese Filling
Chocolate Fillings
Bittersweet Chocolate Ganache
White Chocolate Ganache
Coffee Ganache
Spice Ganache
Caramel Fillings
Caramel Candy Filling (from Millionaire’s Shortbread)
Dulce de Leche from Sweetened Condensed Milk (Three Methods)
Dulce de Leche from Whole Milk
Caramel Stroopwafel Filling
Caramel Ganache
Salted Caramel Buttercream
Curd Fillings
Lemon Curd
Lime Curd
Pineapple Curd
Raspberry Curd
Sour Apple/Berry/Cherry Curd
Dairy Free Curd
White Chocolate Curd
Buttercream Fillings (Italian Meringue Method), with variations
Vanilla Buttercream
Mint Buttercream
Spice Buttercream
Lemon Buttercream
Strawberry Buttercream
Glazes, Icings and Frostings
Plain Hard Glaze
Citrus Glaze
Satin Glaze
Rum Glaze
Thin Glaze
Melted Chocolate Glaze
Quick Chocolate Glaze
Chocolate Spice Glaze
Citrus Cream Cheese Icing
Zimtsterne Lemon Icing (Bake-on)
Royal Icing
Browned Butter Frosting
Vanilla/Chocolate Frosting
Caramel Tassie Frosting
Chocolate Fondant
Food Processor Fondant
Greek Honey Soaking Syrup
Index
CONVERSIONS
Liquid Measure
¹/5 tsp. = 1 ml = 1 cc
1 tsp. = ⅓ tbsp. = 5 ml/cc
1 tbsp. = 3 tsp. = 15 ml/cc
2 tbsp. = 1 fluid oz = 30 ml/cc
4 tbsp. = ¼ cup = 59 ml/cc
5⅓ tbsp. = ⅓ cup = 79 ml/cc
8 tbsp. = ½ cup = 4 fluid oz = 118 ml
16 tbsp. = 1 cup = 8 fluid oz = 237 ml
2 cups = 1 pint = 16 fluid oz = 473 ml.
2 pints = 1 quart = 946 ml
1 liter = 1 quart 1½ tsp.
1 gallon = 4 quarts = 3.8 liters
Weight
1 oz = 28.4 g (recipes round off)
1 pound = 16 oz = 455 g
1 kilo = 2.20 lbs.
English to Metric
1 tsp. = 5 ml. = 5 cc
1 tbsp. = 15 ml. (cc)
1 cup ≈ ¼ liter
1 pint = .4732 liters
1 quart = .9463 liters
1 gallon = 3.785 liters
200° F = 95° C
225° F = 110° C
250° F = 120° C
275° F = 135° C
300° F = 150° C
325° F = 165° C
350° F = 175° C
375° F = 190° C
400° F = 205° C
425° F = 220° C
450° F = 230° C
Volume To Weight (Based On 1 Cup)
Flour, dip-and-sweep = 5 oz = 140 g
Bread flour = 5½ oz = 155 g
Cake flour = 4⅔ oz = 130 g
Semolina & Farina = 7 oz = 200 g
Tapioca starch, cornstarch, etc. = 4¼ oz = 120 g
Cocoa Powder = 3¼ oz = 90 g
Oats, Rolled = 3¼ oz = 90 g
Granulated sugar = 7 oz = 200 g
Packed brown sugar = 7 oz = 200 g
Powdered sugar = 4 oz = 115 g
Honey & Molasses = 12 oz = 340 g
Egg (1 large whole) = 2 oz = 60 g
Egg (1 large yolk) = ⅔ oz = 20 g
Egg (1 large white) = 1⅓ oz = 40 g
Candied fruit, chopped = 2⅔ oz = 75 g)
Raisins = 5¼ oz = 150 g
Chocolate, Chopped & Chips = 6 oz = 170 g
Almonds, Sliced/Chopped = 3 oz = 85 g
Almond flour = 3½ oz = 100 g
Almonds, Ground = 3¾ oz = 110 g
Almonds, Slivered = 4¼ oz = 120 g
Almonds, Whole = 6 oz = 170 g
Hazelnuts, Whole = 5 oz = 140 g
Peanuts, Chopped = 4½ oz = 130 g
Peanuts, Whole = 5¼ oz = 150 g
Peanut Butter = 9³/16 oz = 260 g
Sesame Seeds = 5¼ oz = 150 g
Walnut/Pecan Halves = 3½ oz = 100 g
Walnuts/Pecan, Chopped = 4 oz = 115 g
Eggs
1 cup Jumbo = 4 Whole = 5 Whites = 11 Yolks
1 cup XL = 4 Whole = 6 Whites = 12 Yolks
1 cup Large = 5 Whole = 7 Whites = 14 Yolks
1 cup Med. = 5 Whole = 8 Whites = 16 Yolks
1 cup Small = 6 Whole = 9 Whites = 18 Yolks
Butter
1 stick = 8 tbsp. = ½ cup = ¼ lb. = 4 oz = 115 g
1 lb. = 4 sticks = 2 cups = 32 tbsp. = 455 g.
Sugar, Brown Sugar, Honey & Molasses
1 pound of honey ≈ 1⅓ cups.
Sugar and brown sugar are ≈ ⅔ as sweet as honey.
To substitute for 1 cup of honey in baked goods:
* Use 1½ cups of sugar or brown sugar;
* Increase a liquid in the recipe by ¼ cup; and
* Reduce the baking soda, if used, by ½ teaspoon.
Light brown sugar = [1 cup sugar + 1 tbsp. molasses] or [¼ cup sugar + ¾ cups dark brown sugar]
Dark brown sugar = [1 cup sugar + 2 tbsp. molasses] or [1 cup light brown sugar + 1 tbsp. molasses]
Citrus Fruit
1 lemon = 2-3 tbsp. juice ≈ 1-1½ tbsp. zest
1 lime = 2 tbsp. juice ≈ 1 tbsp. zest
1 orange = 4 tbsp. (¼ cup) juice ≈ 2 tbsp. zest
1 grapefruit = ⅔ cup (10-11 tbsp.) juice ≈ 3 tbsp. zest
Cookies & Fillings To Use Up Extra Egg Whites
+2 Whites = Brunsli
+2 Whites = Coconut Macaroons
+2 Whites = Chocolate Meringues
+2 Whites = Sweet Nut Filling
+2 Whites = Meringue Kisses
+3 Whites = Meringue Kisses with Dacquoise
+3 Whites = Italian Buttercream
+3 Whites = Zimtsterne
+3 Whites = Vanilla Sticks
+3 Whites = Royal Icing Ornaments
+4 Whites = Amaretti
+5 Whites = Macarons
+6 Whites = Bittersweet Chocolate Macaroons
Cookies & Fillings To Use Up Extra Egg Yolks
Make meringues and you will run into a problem. How to use up all those leftover yolks? After many years of frustration we finally compiled this list:
+1 = Chocolate Crinkles
+1 = Sandies (French Sablés)
+1 = Linzer Tart Cookies
+1 = Key Lime Pie Cookies
+1 = Spritz Cookies
+1 = Thumbprints & Soldier Buttons
+1 = Lemon/Lime Cookies
+1 = Koulourakia (egg wash)
+1 = Totenbeinli (egg wash)
+1 = Lemon Wafers
+1 = Pepperkakor (an option)
+1 = Nut Horns
+1 = Bizcochitos
+1 = Madeleines
+1 = Fig Cucciddati
+2 = Butter Cookies
+2 = Butter Jellies
+2 = Zaleti
+2 = Sweet Cheese Filling
+3 = Mailanderli
+3 = French Sesame Butter Cookies
+3 = Chocolate Salami (an option)
+3 = Fig Watertowns
+3 = Lemon Curd
+4 = Grandma Kandler’s Butter Jellies
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS & INSPIRATIONS
We built this book over a span of decades in which Scott merrily rooted around the local libraries searching for classics new and old,
scoured the Internet in search of alternate versions, and played with Kate to find the common threads and refine those recipes to perfection. But the actual art of cookie making... that we learned from a more limited set of authors and ancestors. They deserve some express credit and thanks. These are just a few.
Grandma Kandler, a/k/a Jarmila Musilova Kandlerova, a/k/a Kate’s maternal grandmother. You may notice a distinct Czech accent to a lot of this book because Kate’s the one with a personal cookie heritage. That goes back to Grandma Kandler, who filled each Christmas with sounds and scents and flavors and joy even under the material shortages created by the repressive Communist regime of the 1960’s and 70’s. Every generation builds on a pyramid of inspiration and shoulders from those who came before. Grandma Kandler is the cornerstone of ours.
Jarmila Stoy, Kate’s mother. She brought these cookies and their traditions to America when the family immigrated here in 1980. Finding the gluten content and the texture of U.S. flour is very different from the one in Europe, she forged on through countless failed
batches to adapt the family recipes cookies so respectable that her cookie tray inspired Scott to adopt, continue, and expand the tradition.
Maida Heatter. Maida’s da best. Maida’s da bomb. Maida’s da Queen of All Things Cookie. Her recipes are easy, precise, reliable, readable, and superb in every other way you could possibly imagine. If you haven’t read Maida Heatter’s books, put this one down, go to your local bookstore or library, and get them. That’s the single best recipe we have to offer.
As we write this Mrs. Heatter is a lady of venerable age living in Florida, long since retired but still adored by millions of bakers around the world. Tens of millions. That’s not an exaggeration. We are among them. One of our first printed books will go in her direction with our sincerest thanks and admiration.
Maida’s da best. Maida’s da bomb. Get thee hence and read her books.
Shirley Corriher. Who could follow Maida Heatter? No one. But the next in line has to be the lady who wrote that indispensible food science tome: Bakewise. We’ve only lifted one or two recipes from that book for this collection – Moravian Snowflakes along with some tweaks to improve our older Lace Cookie formula – but we both want to say that we are better bakers because we read it. You will be too.
Dorie Greenspan is the first lady of modern, creative cookie cookery. Her wonderful Dorie’s Cookies came out as we were in the throes of final recipe testing but she would have been on this page anyway because of all the work we enjoyed beforehand. Indeed, Dorie deserves extra credit because she’s the one who brought Pierre Hermé a/k/a The Genius,
to English speakers like us. How good is Hermé? Let us tell you a story.
We have a friend named Jean-Marc Chatellier who owns a local bakery that has become famous for a 2-3 hour drive in any direction. Again, it’s not an exaggeration. People drive to Pittsburgh from Ohio and West Virginia just to get his cakes and croissants. Jean-Marc grew up in France, trained in France, emigrated from France, and makes French pastries every bit as good as what you’ll find in France. We’ve been there; we’ve compared; and we personally attest to that truth. So: A few years back Jean-Marc took his family on a research trip
to Paris. He came back almost offended. Indignant!
I can do that! They’re not all that special.
Then he paused. Okay, Hermé is pretty good. But the rest of them... I can do that!
We couldn’t just ignore an opening like that: So you bow to Mecca but the rest are mortal?
Well, yeah. But what’s wrong with that?
Absolutely nothing, Jean-Marc. You are a true master. Museums are filled with paintings by men no better with their oils than you are with flour and butter. But there’s only one Da Vinci. We love Dorie Greenspan’s work for it’s own sake, but we owe her for the introduction to Mssr. Hermé as well.
Cook’s Illustrated a/k/a America’s Test Kitchen. These good people do yeomen’s work testing and retesting each recipe, and more importantly explaining what choices they made along the way. Two of our favorite recipes in the book originated here, the Lemon/Lime Sugar Cookies, with that wonderful trick of working zest into the sugar, and Millionaire’s Shortbread, which features an equally wonderful shortbread crust. True, there is no Mrs. Illustrated
or Mr. Test
in the same way there's a Maida, Shirley or Dorie, but the work itself is every bit as good, and has been, month after month, for decades. Thank you.
Christopher Kimball. The founder of Cook’s Illustrated et. al. who has now moved on to a new venture called Milk Street. Much like in his first venture, A+ for substance, including an article on the Polish gingerbread cookie Pierniczki, which we were sure that only immigrants knew about in America. Signs look good for the new project, but this is a thank you for all the work over the years. Mr. Kimball has done as much as anyone to raise all boats in the sea of American cooking.
There are others we could mention. Nancy Silverton, who’s just a flat-out inspiration in everything she bakes. Rose Levy Beranbaum, whose every word is a lesson in how to cook like a professional in the confines of a home kitchen. The people who contribute to phenomenal cooking blogs like Serious Eats (Cook’s Illustrated on steroids). The people behind recipe collection sites like Allrecipes (You want versions to compare? We’ve got more versions than you can compare!
). Folks such as... No, it’s got to stop. No baker is an island, or perhaps we are all islands in a long string of atolls going back through time. If you decide to tour the Sea of Cookies and find that you’ve liked our scenery, we heartily recommend the people and places above as additional ports of call.
INTRODUCTION
What do you say to introduce a work that’s been 30 years in the making? Do you explain what it is (a book half filled with recipes you won’t know but will be glad to discover)? Do you explain what it isn’t (a work of creative genius, or the organized translation of professional expertise for home kitchens)? Go down the reporter’s list of who, what, when, where, why and how? Perhaps it’s best to start with a story.
Kate’s first exposure to the Greater Pavelle Clan came at a Thanksgiving dinner, which has been the holiday when Scott’s family gets together since long before either of us was born. Scott’s first holiday with Kate’s family came at Christmas, a celebration that featured the traditional array of Czech cookies (Vánoční cukroví
a/k/a Christmas sweets
). Butter Jellies, Nut Horns, Anisettes, Bear Paws, Rum Balls, Almond and Coconut Macaroons… It never seemed to end! This,
he said after wiping off the crumbs, is a Good Thing™.
That went on for a number of years until the Wall fell, the Czechs had their Velvet Revolution, and Kate’s parents repatriated to Prague. Now we found ourselves planning our first Christmas on our own. Scott’s first question had to do with the cookie tray of course. I don’t know,
said Kate. They’re an awful lot of work. I’ll probably just do two or three that I really care about.
Was that an honest reservation or a subtle plea for help? The world will never know. Scott immediately replied with something along the lines of, If you don’t want to do it, then I will. Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas without the cookies!
But which ones? He couldn’t just try to recreate the traditional Czech recipes, because that might step on some toes and could smack of ‘taking over’ rather than ‘supporting.’ So he cast his mind back to favorites of his own childhood in New York, and began to do the research. Head out to the library. Collect 8-10 books that included some version of the target recipe, and collate them into an array of possibilities. (This was before the Internet knew about cooking). And then start baking, batch after batch with little tweaks and careful records to refine things down toward perfection. Linzer Tarts were among the first such tests and it probably took 5-10 batches before he figured out the need to reduce the nuts to flour (unheard of in the early 1990’s), figured out how to do it (grate first and then process), and realized that there’s nothing wrong with letting the cookies age for a day or two in anticipation of the holiday. It was fun, and baking made for a nice, therapeutic break from the stress of studying, and then practicing law.
January passed, and he moved on to master variations like our Key Lime Cookies, along with recipes like Cinnamon Star (Zimtsterne
) variations to use up the leftover egg whites. February led to Rugelach and Kolachy and the various different flaky doughs. March loomed… and the trouble began.
Imagine being an adoring, overworked, stress-filled young husband trying to step up and help, only to be faced one afternoon with a specter of fury, her fists on her hips, and her beloved eyes flowing over with mixed tears of anger and frustration. If you keep making them, I’LL KEEP EATING THEM!!!
Scott’s bane is fudge; the real stuff, not those diluted, tainted mutations filled with crunchies that soil the exquisite smoothness of Wonka’s chocolate river. Fudge is irresistible, and that is why he never dared to explore how to make it. Now it turned out that cookies fill that niche for Kate, and she’d been helplessly standing by like a dope fiend watching the love of her life take up poppy farming as a hobby. One man’s Good Thing™ was his woman’s Not Funny™.
And thus began the tradition of giving the wealth away. Scott could bake to his heart’s content, as long as he found some other victims recipients for his overflow.
Problem solved? Not exactly. Scott’s a big reader and a history buff, and it turns out you can learn a lot about a nation from studying its baking traditions. Besides, when you go through a cookbook borrowed for one recipe, you’re bound to find a few more that look interesting. And baking is fun, therapeutic, and… You get the idea. The list of must-have favorites with fascinating backstories kept growing. By the mid-90’s his little cookie project had evolved into a two month orgy of baking and prep work for 20-25 different recipes per year. Do the math. Average yield of one recipe = three dozen cookies. 25 x 36 = 900, plus a few double batches for the favorite ones… What the heck do you do with 1,000 cookies every Christmas that won’t result in tears, and anger, and despair, and fists coiled on waiting-to-expand hips?
And thus began the tradition of giving away entire tins rather than just the occasional cookies. Lots of tins. To family, friends, the auto mechanic who gave you a break, the lady at the cheese counter who gave you some extra care, that great family you buy your coffee from, your friends who own the restaurants… And the clients, of course. And coworkers. By the year 2000 both Scott and Kate regularly started to field innocent questions as early as September. So, are we on the cookie list again…?
Here’s one thing we can flat out guarantee from personal experience: the recipes in this book go beyond mere ‘good’ and into ‘memorable.’ We know this because people remembered them year after year and begged for more. By lovingly detailed description, and occasionally by name.
Around that same time we also started to field requests for a cookbook. But come on! We had what, 40 recipes nailed? And another few dozen on the work me up
list? You can’t do a cookbook with only 40 recipes! Nor with 50, 60, or 70 recipes, as we kept explaining in the years that followed. And 90 might seem like a lot, but have you really looked at modern cookbooks? They’re stuffed to the rafters! But then the day comes when you hit triple digits, and you realize that all of those recipes have variations as well. Plus those lovely backstories…
So that is what you are holding. A bit more than 30 years of obsessive testing, tweaking, sharing, and family joy centered around the sometimes obscure cookies that this or that immigrant group feels are absolutely essential to the core of their holiday celebration. The majority come from European countries but we haven’t turned our noses up at cookies that evolved in the Americas either. It’s all about tradition; but tradition organized, curated, and perfected for American kitchens, ingredients, and tables.
We unearthed, developed, refined, and nailed these recipes to share them with each other, with our family, and with those we’ve come to love in the community at large. Please accept them as a gift from us. And remember the baker’s credo:
Every happy smile makes the whole world better by some tiny but measurable percentage.
And every tray of cookies is a platter full of smiles.
Extra Spice From Kate
Dear readers, bakers, and friends!
I’m Kate, and Scott is my husband. Most of what he wrote in the introduction is true. There are a few personal details where he embellished in regards to my own person. Forgive him, for he is not only a lawyer and a baker, but also a crack storyteller.
My own relationship to food, and to treats especially, harkens back to the food shortages in socialist Czechoslovakia where I grew up. Since ingredients were often hard to come by, I had never been permitted to take part in the baking ritual for fear that I might ruin the batch and waste a rare ingredient, such as raisins or hazelnuts. We came to the U.S. after I turned fourteen. Once it became obvious that we’d need to choose from several brands and packaging sizes of raisins as opposed to standing in line for just one little packet, my mother’s tight culinary fist began to loosen up. She dropped a hint here and there as she worked and I watched.
This technique was better than grandma’s. That cookie overbaked too easily. The Wondra® instantized flour, made to thicken gravies, worked a lot better than strange and too-fine American flour, which changed a beloved recipe into a mess of spreading, pasty coat buttons. The hints, tips, life-hacks, and emergency saves added up, turning Mom into a home baker of a stellar reputation in our small Czech immigrant community.
Scott and I had met in college where we had access to a kitchen. Per my request, Grandma Kandler had sent me several recipes in one of her frequent, hand-written letters rendered in ink on the super-thin air-mail paper of yesteryear. Baking sounded like a pleasant change from geology and chemistry, so I gave it a try. It kind of worked – the Butter Jellies I made were overworked, overbaked, and a bit too thin, and the Nut Horns fell apart if you looked at them wrong, but they were still received well. Mostly because they were different.
Then I began to hear my fellow students reminisce about their elderly aunts or grandmothers who had come from the old country,
and who used to make something just like this, except different.
They were stories that always had a sort of nostalgic longing for something beyond the venerable and much-loved American chocolate chip cookie.
Now I accept that this book started as an ode of Scott’s love and devotion to me. (This was his edit. I think I wrote something about him being horribly obsessive, and that I hoped he’d write a book to get the cookies out of his system). [NOTE FROM SCOTT: False. And I love you too.] I am honored nevertheless, and I freely admit that I didn’t make the baking life easy for him.
I diet.
I fret over saturated fats and too much sugar.
I fight to stay at my size 14.
I ask plaintively if he’ll be removing a new batch from the house this morning, or whether we should freeze it for a later give-away.
And worst of all, I have recently sprouted food allergies. Avoiding dairy is hard, and I have a certain maximum dairy contaminant limit
I may not exceed. This means I can cheat and taste the occasional butter-based cookie, but I can’t enjoy them as such without fear of both short- and long term consequences.
If you think that slowed the process down, you don’t know my husband. Problems are there to be solved! Scott began to research, test, adapt, and expand his collection of naturally dairy-free cookies. Not just for me, but for all of us similarly afflicted.
Around the same time I began to develop paleo-friendly treats. Those are gluten-free, rely on nuts and oats, contain no dairy, and enjoy a lower sugar content. Regular cookie fans find they miss the sugar, but anyone on a paleo or a keto diet rejoices, because a cookie like that won’t send them into the sugar coma that precedes the infamous sugar crash. These are still a work in progress. Someday, when all other work is done, I hope to write a very short cookbook of no more than 30 recipes that are as easy on the palate as they are on the rest of the body. There are only a few of those in the present book. You’ll know them when you see them.
Scott wrote most of this book, but you’ll find interstitials from me before every section, and certain cookies come with Extra spice from Kate,
a personal anecdote. I hope you find that two minds (and perspectives) are better than one.
I also want to stress that this book wouldn’t be complete without the lovely photographs. Laura Petrilla has worked hard and with great enthusiasm, coming to our home as well as inviting me to bring tins upon tins of cookies to her studio. I have learned much from watching her.
In fact, I took some photos myself. The very few taken by me are marked as such, and represent those times when our personal and professional schedules didn’t let us set aside several hours to hang out and debate the virtue of background, texture, color and lighting while sampling the goods. We are fortunate to have Laura in our lives and on this project. Aside from boundless enthusiasm, she brings food photography experience in the form of several other cookbooks, which I encourage you to find at her website: www.misslphotography.com.
You can find new developments on the Heritage Cookie front at www.heritagecookies.net. Please feel free to contact us with your own favorite recipes, be they traditional or paleo-friendly!
Happy baking,
Kate
photo by MugenPress
METHODS AND INGREDIENTS
This is a recipe book, not a manual for the novice baker. If you are really new, please start by learning from one of the true experts mentioned in the Acknowledgements section. But it’s also not a book aimed at experts. We have done our best to target casual