Korea: Land of Morning Calm

By Craig J. Brown

This richly photographed travel pictorial tours Korea--a place of dynamic innovation with strong traditional currents.

Several years ago, a columnist at one of Korea's English language newspapers used the byline "Only the Morning is Calm." And while Korea is known as the Land of the Morning Calm, that columnist was right on target. From the hectic sidewalks of the cities, to skiers zipping down mountain slopes, Korea is anything but a country stuck in time. Yet, the past is not forgotten here. Elements of Shamanism persist, and Confucian tradition remains the foundation of Korean culture.

If you are seeking to travel to or experience a country that fuses a thoroughly modern mindset with a deep appreciation for tradition, Korea is the place. Now, combine a vivacious Asian culture with stunning mountain landscapes, rugged coastlines interspersed with stretches of glistening white sand beaches and cities that vibrate with energy and you've got an idea of what this unusual country is all about.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Periplus Editions
• Release date: Feb 12, 2013
• ISBN: 9781462909285

Book preview

LAND OF THE UNEXPECTED

There are many mountains and few plains in Korea and the people are gentle, cautious and rather parochial.

"— By Yi Chung-Hwan (1750)

A wooden mask used in a Mask Dance Drama at the Andong Hahoe Maeul Folk Village in central Korea.

View of King Sejong the Great’s shrine and tomb near the city of Yeoju. King Sejong, who ruled from 1418–1450, is Korea’s most loved king and was instrumental in creating hangul, the Korean alphabet.

Take a country that is a quarter the size of California, fill it with mountains and surround it with a rugged coastline. Settle nearly fifty million people amongst the scattered valleys and plains. Then place this little country between two larger countries, add a few thousand years of invasion and appeasement. Give it the ancient philosophies of Confucius and Buddha and mix this with a dose of Christianity and capitalism. Make the people emotional, fiercely independent and full of pride. And finally, give that country a very distinctive culture and character all its own. That, in a nutshell, is Korea—the Land of the Morning Calm.

There are those that revel in all things Korean. They love the crowded streets and the narrow alleyways lined with tiny restaurants, internet cafes and mom and pop groceries. They marvel at the sidewalks filled with street vendors selling stuffed animals, hot potatoes, used videos and a plethora of other unnecessary items.

In how many other countries do old women still haul their shopping neatly bundled atop their heads, or young women carry their children happily strapped to their backs? Can there be a more unusual tourist attraction than the inappropriately named DMZ (Demilitarized Zone)? And how about those bright neon lights and buildings plastered from top to bottom with advertising? And finally, those sleek young women in their miniskirts and platform shoes are unforgettable. For them, Korea is East Asia’s most exotic and exciting country.

Let’s start with the language. Without many years of serious study, Korean is next to impossible to learn. And on top of that, the Koreans have their own alphabet (hangul). Looking for an English language bookstore in this land of bookworms? Not so easy. English on a menu? Maybe in the expensive hotels. Heck, it’s only been a few years or so since the Seoul train station began posting their departures and arrivals in English as well as Korean.

Shopping malls in Korea? There are a few in Seoul, but more common are the underground shopping arcades that share a labyrinth of tunnels with the subway systems and underground walkways. Or the traditional markets where men holler out their prices while customers dig deep into carts looking for bargains. And the old women who sit all day in the heat of summer and the cold Siberian winter winds hoping to sell their meager offerings of fresh vegetables or fish.

Autumn reflections in the Imagination Pavilion at the EXPO Park in Daejeon, Korea’s fifth largest city. Daejeon is a science and technology hub.

Sitting almost dead center in the city of Seoul, the Seoul Tower on Namsan Mountain offers one of the best views of the city.

Then there is the overarching concern for ancient Confucian traditions. One of the first questions Koreans will ask you is your age. Once ages have been determined, then relationships fall into place.

Korean society is based on relationships and they are carefully nurtured. It is common for people to meet with friends from elementary school every few months. They also have get-togethers with their middle school, high school and college chums. Family, friends, schools and even provincial associations continue to be the cornerstone of Korean social life. It may be popular for Korean media and politicians to rail against crony capitalism, but the reality is that these networks remain the foundation of Korean business and politics.

Westernization has made inroads into the heart of Korea. American fast-food restaurants can be found at the busiest intersections. Huge department stores, with clerks spaced every few meters along the aisles, are located throughout Korea’s larger cities. And in the suburbs, discount stores (including America’s Wal-Mart and France’s Carrefour) are popping up all over the place. From Japan, the Koreans have adopted the singing room (nora bong) as their own. And the global symbols of youth culture (hamburgers, pizza, rap music and blue jeans) have established a firm foothold.

This has made Korea a curious mixture of East and West. Take medicine for example. Koreans have no problem visiting