Offbeat Korea
By Chris Backe
()
About this ebook
Save time and energy, and find what's worthy in South Korea!
Worthy Go guidebooks are your guide to the best places to enjoy in South Korea.
See South Korea with an experienced travel writer by your side!
Whether this is your first time abroad or you've been traveling for years, Worthy Go guidebooks have three goals:
Make the most of your time, money, and energy while traveling
Help you go your own way but still provide some guidance
Curate the very best places to enjoy in the country
This guidebook has been completely updated for 2020, and includes:
No affiliate links, no ads, no fluff, and no BS.
Over 100 of South Korea's best off-the-beaten-path places.
Detailed, step-by-step directions to reach every place in the book.
Succinct descriptions, exact addresses, and GPS coordinates for every place.
First-hand knowledge and advice: where to stay, what to bring, safety and scam warnings, and more.
All the basics you'll need to know: do you tip? Can you drink the tap water? What SIM card should you get? What public transportation tickets do you need?
Advice on being a considerate, respectful, and sensitive traveler.
Guidebooks are carefully formatted to display well on any device, and links take you to Google Maps (internet connection required).
About the author: Chris Backe (rhymes with hockey) has written about travel since 2008 and has been around the world a couple of times. He's written over 30 books, and has been seen in Atlas Obscura, io9, Mental Floss, Everything Everywhere, Perceptive Travel, Travel Wire Asia, and many other publications. When not traveling, he loves tabletop games and a glass of white wine.
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Offbeat Korea - Chris Backe
Other itineraries in the Worthy Go series
Cities: Amsterdam, Bangkok, Bogota, Bucharest, Budapest, Chiang Mai, Istanbul, Lima, Medellin, Quito, Seattle, Seoul, Tallinn, Toronto, Vientiane, Zagreb
Countries / regions: Laos, Central Thailand, Northern Thailand, South Korea
More info at worthygo.com.
Other guidebooks by Chris Backe
48 Daytrip Destinations From Seoul
Becoming a Digital Nomad
An Introduction to Thailand
Korean for Tourists
Korean Made Easy
Offbeat Korea
Offbeat Thailand
What the Florida
Acknowledgements
Thanks to everyone who contributed ideas: Stephen Revere, Martin Zatko, Roger Peacock, Ed Provencher, Mark Eaton, Robert Koehler, Matt Crawford, Chris Tharp, Lisa Kelley, Michael Breen, Jon Dunbar, Brian Deutsch AKA Brian in Jeollanam-do, David Mason, GI Korea
AKA ROK Drop, Steve Miller, and dozens of others.
Thanks to the traveling partner who became my wife, Laura. She was incredibly patient as we got lost, followed bad directions, jumped on the wrong bus, waited for a taxi or train home, translated Korean, wrote correct directions down, or took pictures.
Thanks to the hundreds of thousands of readers at Chris in South Korea, Chris in Thailand, One Weird Globe, and Worthy Go over the years.
Warning / Disclaimer
Although the author has made every effort to ensure that the information in this book was correct at publication time (© January 2020), the author does not assume and hereby disclaims any liability to any party for any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause.
Be aware that traveling in a foreign country has inherent risks, and seemingly anything can change overnight. Places may close, admission fees may rise, drivers will drive crazy, and public transportation routes can be altered. Stay aware of your surroundings, employ street smarts and common sense, and in general be suspicious of locals that approach you speaking English.
Unless otherwise noted, all material in this book is the legal property of the author and may not be reprinted or republished without the author's express written consent, with the exception of short quotes for academic or review purposes.
History, like many other things, is often determined by the winners — or at least those in charge. Some places have chosen to present a version of history that favors their own view, or to present something closer to propaganda. As a general rule, if it sounds like propaganda, it probably is. I’ve attempted to balance out the local perceptions with facts and details, and encourage you to take the propaganda with a grain of salt.
Introduction to South Korea
South Korea — the underrated home of soju, kimchi, and love motels.
Devastated by war less than two generations ago, today South Korea stands on par in many regards with Japan. The cross-sea rivals share much in common, even as their rivalry has led to some diplomatic issues and territorial disputes. Korea looks forward at least as much as they celebrate their past, though the future tends to win whenever these come into conflict.
Virtually every road, bus, and train leads to Seoul. With ten million people in the city and half the country's population in the metro area, Seoul's size will take some time to dawn on you. Even with the constant reinvention, reminders of centuries past are all around in the Joseon Dynasty palaces, Buddhist temples, and hanok, the old style of Korean houses. That each of these has been reproduced and reinvented a number of times doesn't take away from their beauty, though one fair critique is that the originals have have almost entirely been replaced by modern recreations.
That re-invention dates back to the end of the Korean War, a time when the GDP was once that of sub-Saharan Africa. Thanks in part to foreign aid and a dictatorial leader in Park Chung-hee, the economy began to turn around. The 1988 Summer Olympics held in Seoul served as South Korea's 'coming out' party, an opportunity for the world to see the solidly first-world and modern city. Today, the city boasts one of the finest and most comprehensive public transportation systems to whisk you around town or around the country (the Seoul subway system connects to three different provinces and a number of satellite cities).
North Korea remains an undeniable shadow to the progress made by the South, and progress towards a final peace treaty is often met by setbacks and blustery behavior. You'll only notice the tension if you venture well north of Seoul towards the DMZ, and the average Seoulite spends almost no time worrying about the North. You need not, either — Seoul is a safe, modern, first-world city with plenty of English and wonderful attractions.
Whether you have a few days or a few weeks, Korea holds more than enough attractions to keep you traveling offbeat. Check out the location index, category index, or alphabetical index to guide you as you go.
Cultural protips:
● The average Korean's level of spoken English is... lacking. Blame an educational system that has long emphasized rote memorization over creative thinking. Remember to speak slowly and clearly, and show the hangeul (Korean alphabet) if you can. You may need to resort to charades and pantomime to be understood. Remember that quite a few words (like 'hamburger', 'hotel', and others) sound essentially the same in Korean as they do in English.
● While not an official religion, Confucianism as a series of ideas and practices runs in the background, much like Christianity does in North America. While it's too broad a mindset to explain in a short paragraph, the element you're most likely to come across is how it establishes a social pecking order. Older people are 'above' younger people, men are 'above' women, and the boss is 'above' the subordinate. The honorifics change if you're the 'senior' or the 'junior' in the relationship, and is one reason why Koreans may want to know your age, your job / position, and so on.
● Like China, Koreans avoid the number 4 because the number sounds similar to 'death'. The fourth floor of a building (if it exists) is seen as 'F' in the elevator.
● It's unlikely to be an issue, but avoid writing someone's name in red (doing so indicates the person has passed away).
● Chopsticks are the norm at many restaurants, so learn to use them before arriving! Use a spoon to eat rice, and don't leave chopsticks sticking out of the bowl (they look like the incense sticks people use to remember the dead). More touristy restaurants will have forks.
● At Buddhist temples, expect to take off your shoes before stepping into some buildings. Remain quiet and avoid disturbing anyone praying, kneeling, or bowing. Don't touch any Buddha statues or images. In general, you are free to meander around temples, take a seat cushion and sit and contemplate life.
Where to stay
Places mentioned here are chosen based on personal experiences, the experiences of friends, and other reviews. Worthy Go does not accept money or favors to include hotels in this itinerary. Note the hotels and hostels here are scattered across Seoul, but are typically close to a subway station.
Budget
Happy Day Spa / Jimjilbang (해피데이스파) — Being a jjimjilbang means you’ll be sleeping on a pad on the floor, but the price is almost unbeatable. A short walk from the Hongdae area / Hongik University station. 112 Yanghwa-ro, Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul, (서울특별시 마포구 서교동 양화로 112) — 02-322-3399. GPS: 37.553224, 126.919723.
G Guest House — a modern hostel about a two-minute walk from Itaewon station. 24-hour access and coin laundry available. A two-minute walk from Itaewon station, a popular tourist area. 14-38, Bogwang-ro 60-gil, Yongsan-gu, (14-38 보광로 60길 용산구) — 02-795-0015. gguest.com GPS: 37.533182, 126.994950.
Mid-range
At Noon Hotel (앳 눈 호텔 신촌) — Rooms come with desktop computers and a touch of luxury, walking distance to Sinchon subway on line 2. 15 Baekbeom-ro 2-gil, Nogosan-dong, Seoul (15 백범로2길 노고산동 마포구) — +82-02-719-1006. shinchon-at-noon.seoul-hotels-kr.com/en. GPS: 37.553904, 126.936104.
Line Hotel Myeongdong (라인 호텔 명동) — Modern, minimalist design with a glass exterior. Free wi-fi, satellite TV, and other mid-range touches. About 50 meters from Euljiro-1-ga on line 2 in the Myeongdong area. 36, Myeongdong 3-gil, Jung-gu (서울특별시 중구 명동 명동3길 36) — +82 2-3789-8111. line-hotel.co.kr
High-end
Gangnam Artnouveau City II (강남아르누보씨티) — four-star class and luxury, only minutes from Seolleung station in the ritzy Gangnam area. 49 Seocho-daero 74-gil, Seocho 2(i)-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul (서울특별시 서초구 서초2동 서초대로74길 49) — +82-02-580-7300. GPS: 37.503413, 127.042844. gnanhotel.com
Lotte Seoul Hotel — high-end class and elegance on par with any world-class hotel, steps from Euljiro-1-ga and Myeongdong. 1 Sogong-dong, Jung-gu, Myeong-dong (중구 명동 소공동 1) — +82-02-771-1000. GPS: 37.565287, 126.980982. lottehotel.com/seoul-hotel/en.html.
Elsewhere in Korea, the biggest pockets of hotels are found near the bus terminals and train station where you arrive. There's almost never a need to book in advance, though it's a good idea if you're traveling during the holidays.
Before you arrive
What to bring
Clothes to match the weather, and your camera! Plenty of pharmacies, restaurants, grocery stores, and electronics stores are around, so bring what you need and know you can pick up most anything you forgot once you arrive.
Getting around
Seoul arguably has one of the best public transportation systems in the world. It's extensive, often in English, clean, and relatively cheap. Subways and buses play nice with each other, and one card gets you everywhere.
Start with one T-Money (티머니) card per traveler. It's a plastic, contactless card that is loaded with money, then tapped twice: when entering and leaving the system. The exact fare is based on the distance traveled — it charges a base fee when you 'tap in', and an additional amount when you 'tap out'. Look for a touch-screen machine to sell you one for 3,000 won. Children's cards can also be purchased with discounts automatically applied. Put about 15,000 won on each card for this three-day itinerary.
Some other things worth noting:
● The T-Money cards come in plenty of styles and more than a couple sizes. They all work, so long as there's money on that card / device.
● If you have plans to visit Busan (Korea's second-largest city in southeastern Korea), the T-Money can also be used on Busan's subways and buses.
● The MPass is essentially a day pass you can use for up to 20 rides in a day. It's only available to purchase at a few places, and is honestly a terrible deal.
● You can also pick up one-time use cards, which require a small deposit when you purchase it. Get your deposit at a vending machine at your destination. These don't give any transfers outside the subway system, so I only recommend getting these if you aren't transferring to a bus.
● Cards for tourists are available, naturally — see koreatourcard.kr/ for more. These function just like a normal T-Money card, but offer some small discounts for things you might buy.
● Refunds of the card's balance (minus a 500 won service fee) are possible at subway stations or from convenience stores.
Best: the subway / metro
Seoul's subway system opened in 1974 with line 1. Today, it has 23 lines and over 700 stations across three provinces. Entire lines and extensions are still being built to better connect the city, which helps maintain the system's status as one of the best in the world.
Cars are well-lit, and the internet actually works while underground. Be aware that the subway begins shutting down around 11pm, with service becoming increasingly rare after midnight.
The system can get very crowded during rush hours, with plenty of ajumma (literally 'married woman') jockeying for position. They're not afraid to use their elbows (or wheeled carts) to stake out their place, and may expect you to give your seat to them if you beat them to it! Transfers are fairly smooth with excellent signage, though walks from one line to another can be on the long side. Aim for fewer transfers whenever possible.
Next-best: the buses
Seoul's bus system is also quite good, but despite a good design, it can be crowded and confusing. As with the subways, tap in when you board and tap out when you depart. It doesn't matter which machine(s) you do it on.
Seoul has different colored buses have different types of routes. Blue buses are the standard sort of routes and connect different parts of Seoul, while green buses tend to connect smaller neighborhoods to the subway system. Red buses are suburban buses connect Seoul to nearby cities, while a handful of yellow buses have circular routes in the central part of Seoul.
Audio announcements are sometimes in English, while the electronic sign boards may also display English names for stops. This isn't always going to happen, so try not to rely on it.
Night buses (called 'Owl buses') start with 'N' run from 12am to 5am, and an ample (but not overwhelming) amount of routes connect subway stations. They officially run every 30 to 50 minutes, so it might be a bit of a wait.
Outside of Seoul, buses tend to come less frequently and shut down earlier. Most bus stops have some signage indicating which buses come and how often, and although in Korean most tourists can figure out the timing. Confirm the destination and direction with the driver before tapping your card — there's no refunds available after the fact. Your T-Money card should work almost everywhere in the country, though some rural systems may insist on a cash payment to the driver. These are the exception, not the rule.
Acceptable: taxis
Seoul's taxis are fine for getting around the city. Drivers may drive recklessly, and are unlikely to speak English. Show the address to the place in Korean, or say the name of the subway station followed by yeok (station). They're usually good about using the meter when you hail them from the street. If they're stopped or quote you a price, you can safely move on. Taxi apps are your better bet — Uber should be around but has struggled in the South Korean market, but Kakao Taxi may not be a local alternative (you may need a local Korean credit card).
About the address system
During the Japanese occupation of Korea in the early 20th century, the occupiers set up an land-lot address system based on the province, district, and neighborhood. This system stuck around for decades after World War II. In 1997, a law was passed to create a street name system similar to other address systems around the world. The current street address system rolled out in 2011, and the old system was officially retired in 2013. Unofficially, you may still see some signs of the old address system still around. All of the major attractions are easy enough to find on Google Maps, so don't let the two address systems confuse you!
About the locals
Seoulites are very urbanized, modern, trendy, and typically in a hurry! Older Koreans (especially men) often act as though they're in charge (even if they're not), and perceive themselves at the top of the social 'totem pole'. Offering your seat to an older person is good karma (and also prevents being berated by someone who thinks it's 'their' seat!) In exchange for your kind gesture, they may offer to hold your bag in their lap — accept graciously. Try not to assume this favor, as they may be carrying more stuff than you!
Outside of the urban areas, life in Korea takes on a slightly to somewhat slower pace of life. The older generation is frequently left behind by the younger generation goes off to college and returns for holidays or to look after their parents and grandparents. These obligations continue even after they've passed — many an office worker returns to the family's gravesite to cut the grass or otherwise offer a reminder that they're not forgotten. A number of primary and secondary schools in rural areas have closed as a result of very few kids returning to the area, and some towns can feel like ghost towns.
Local stuff to try
Korean food