The Making of Nets

By A. Colefax

This vintage book contains a comprehensive guide to making nets, including information on materials, different types of nets, speed netting, and much more. Complete with detailed, step-by-step instructions and a wealth of handy tips and tricks, this volume is ideal for anyone with a practical interest in netting, and would make for a worthy addition to collections of allied literature. The chapters of this book include: “Rope, Knots and Nets”, “Introduction to the First Edition”, “Instructions for Square Mesh”, “Planning a Big Square Mesh”, “Speed Netting”, “Roping”, “Rope Slicing”, “Short Splice”, “Shroud Knot”, and “Instructions on Making Rope Nets for Camouflage”. This antiquarian volume is being republished now in an affordable, high quality edition - complete with a specially commissioned introduction on rope, knots, and nets.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Read Books Ltd.
• Release date: Jan 3, 2013
• ISBN: 9781447481461

Book preview

INTRODUCTION TO FIRST EDITION.

The present impetus to net production is due to the vital importance of nets in military camouflage, and as Australian facilities for commercial net making, whether by machine or by hand, are strictly limited, voluntary effort is looked to for the bulk of the supply.

The meshes of a net may be either diamonds or squares, and it must be pointed out that as far as camouflage is concerned, it makes little difference what the mesh shape is; in certain special cases a square mesh may be desirable because of a smaller tendency to sag, but usually either mesh shape is quite satisfactory. This is due to the fact that the net of itself has little or no camouflage value. It merely acts as a carrier for the garnishing (strip hessian, etc.) which is the real concealing agent.

The size of a mesh is its length when taken by opposite corners and pulled into a straight line; this means that the mesh size is exactly twice the width of the meshing stick. Sometimes however the mesh size is given as the same as the width of the meshing stick, and it is important to make sure which one is meant when studying specifications.

The instructions which follow are concerned with the making of diamond meshes. Square mesh is made substantially in the same way, but it involves learning the extra operations of increasing and decreasing, and so for beginners is not altogether desirable.

The making of nets is usually called meshing or braiding, it is very easily picked up, but here is a word of warning. Do not try to be too fast too early. Be content to go slowly until you are quite proficient, and then increase speed slowly; slickness is usually accompanied by carelessness and mistakes.

PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION.

It is now (October, 1941) almost a year since the Zoology Department of Sydney University (where nets had been in production since April 1940) sent instructors down into the City to train the first workers in the voluntary netmaking effort, and since that time the movement has not only grown enormously but is still in a state of healthy expansion. The authors felt that a new and enlarged edition of this small booklet was urgently needed, because the first edition was intended to be little more than a guide to beginners, but now that the movement is in full swing, we are in a much better position to understand the important factors connected with the making of camouflage nets, and the additions and amendments here incorporated will be found of the utmost importance by beginner and teacher alike.

There is a new comprehensive section on roping and splicing, a section on the making of square mesh as well as more information on gauges and net specifications. A new type of net evolved by one of us for a special purpose is also described.

A.N.C.

I.M.T.

EQUIPMENT FOR NETMAKING—This consist of some forms of stand to carry the crossbar on which most of the work is carried out, netting needles, meshing stick or gauge, twine, rope, scissors, etc.

The stand consists essentially of two uprights to support the crossbar, and can vary a good deal in design; the main essentials are firmness, and correct height, the latter being governed by the height of the person using it. About four feet is a good general figure. The uprights should be about three or four feet apart, and if they can be nailed or screwed to the